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We tend to like flakes that snow us in and sweetly fill our cereal bowl. But if you’ve got dandruff, you usually aren’t thrilled.
These flakes are the result of an inflamed scalp, and from a fungus called Malassezia furfur (formerly, Pityrosporum ovale”>. This fungus loves the dark, warm jungle that is your head of hair.
QUIZ: Do You Have Healthy Hair?
So what is the best dandruff treatment? Begin by washing daily with medicated shampoo that helps with scaling. This stops your immune system from overreacting, so your scalp doesn’t itch, and you don’t scratch off the epidermis. Look for antimicrobial and antifungal shampoos with tar, selenium sulfide, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole or ciclopirox.
Do not use these if you’re pregnant, nursing or trying to conceive. Herbal and home remedies can have side effects, especially if taken with traditional medications and even certain foods.
Definitely run these medicines by your pharmacist or doctor. Another solution is applying green tea to your scalp. This contains a polyphenol (called EGCG”>, but won’t work if mixed with other chemicals. Therefore, shampoos with EGCG might not be the answer.
First cool it — you don’t want to burn the fungus and your scalp. Like many herbal remedies, studies have not shown that tea shampoos make a difference.
Note: If psoriasis is the source of your scalp flaking, minimize shampooing so you don’t dry your scalp further.
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According to a Wella survey, 92 percent of women have dyed their hair at some point in their lives. So when that gorgeous, gleaming color suddenly turns a weird shade of who-knows-what or gets crazy dull a few weeks (or days”> later, know you’re not alone. Others have suffered the same fate. But could the right shampoo have saved you from washing that amazing color down the drain or are those color-treated formulas just marketing hype? Here’s what you need to know about caring for colored strands.
The argument FOR sulfate-free shampoos
Most classic shampoos contain detergents that make up around 15 percent of each bottle. Their job: to sweep away dirt and oils that leave strands squeaky clean (most commonly sodium- or ammonium lauryl sulfate and sodium- or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate”>. However these same detergents can strip the color molecules from the hair cuticle, as well. Conversely, the kinds of cleansing agents dropped into color-treated and sulfate-free formulas typically contain gentler dirt busters that won’t strip hair of color.
Here’s where it gets tricky: There’s not really any scientific proof that going lighter on the suds’ strength makes any difference to hair color preservation. “Shampoos for color-treated hair tend to be sulfate-free but there are no published studies that validate the theory that sulfates fade hair color faster than other surfactants or detergents,” says Ni’Kita Wilson, YouBeauty’s Cosmetic Chemistry Expert.
But there’s no lack of anecdotal evidence. Kyle White, lead colorist at Oscar Blandi in New York City says he can instantly tell the difference between clients who follow his strict healthy hair checklist and those who don’t (plus, abiding acolytes come in way less frequently, which is a dead giveaway they work, he says”>. “Color-safe products don’t contain alcohol, have low sulfate levels and often contain extra moisturizing elements, emollients and proteins to smooth the cuticle, giving hair luster and shine,” he says.
So does that mean you have to use a shampoo for color-treated locks? Not necessarily. If you think you’d get more benefit from a volumizing, moisturizing, curl-defining or dandruff formula, then go ahead and grab one—just look for one without sulfates to be on the safe side.
Some of the best sulfate-free surfactants to look for on the label: sodium lauryl methyl isethionate, ammonium cocyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, decyl glucoside, cocamidopropylamine oxide, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, and sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. “These are mild, yet effective cleansers which provide a luxurious foam that quickly and cleanly rinses out,” says Jim Markham, color veteran and CEO and Founder of ColorProof, and the brains behind cult-favorite Pureology.
TRY: Aubrey Organics Inc. Egyptian Henna Shine-Enhancing Shampoo, $10; Beecology Honey & Botanical Sulfate-Free Shampoo, $13
MORE: Assess Your Hair Condition
Go easy on the heat—indoors and out
Put. Down. The. Hair. Dryer. “Heat is the biggest factor in color fading,” says Nancy Braun, celebrity colorist at Rossano Ferretti Hair Spa in Beverly Hills and a L’Oréal Professionnel Ambassador. “Flat irons, curling irons and blow dryers all scorch hair and open the cuticle, allowing for dyes to slip out.”
“Studies show that having a UV filter in a hair care product can reduce color fading by up to 40 percent,” says Wilson, who adds that most of these findings are based on controlled studies that only reflected washing — not the normal wear and tear that we put our hair through on a daily basis.
An upside to color-specific shampoos is that most of them are laced with some combo of UV absorbers and antioxidants to prevent free radical damage, (yes, the same pesky electron-hungry molecules that are the main culprit of skin aging and DNA damage”>. Free radicals rip apart the pigments used to color the hair which results in fading, brassiness and dullness.
Potent color protectants such as benzophenone-3 and 4, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, or trademark combos like ChromAveil and Heliogenol (found in the new ColorProof line”>, all offer UV protection as well as some of the same antioxidants typically cast as skin defenders including ascorbic acid (vitamin C”> and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E”>.
TRY: L’Oréal Professionnel INOAColor Care Sulfate-Free Shampoo, $25; ColorProof ClearItUp Detox Shampoo, $30
Dry shampoo may just be your haircolor’s new BFF. “As soon as hair gets wet, strands swell and pigment begins to escape,” says Wilson. “The more you shampoo, the quicker the fading.” Skip a suds-session every other day and spray a powder-based dry shampoo directly on roots to sop up grease (choose a tinted version to conceal grays or roots if you’re in need of a dye job”>.
TRY: Oscar Blandi Pronto Invisible Volumizing Dry Shampoo Spray, $25; Bumble & Bumble Brown Hair Powder, $35
MORE: The Docs Talk Healthy Hair
Color-depositing shampoos have some merit—if you go easy on them.
Unlike shampoos that are formulated to go easy on dyed locks, color-depositing treatments do just what they say—add color. They give your blonde, red or brown a little somethin’ somethin’ and ward off premature brassiness, but they can’t replace real deal color, nor should they be used every day. “Color depositing shampoos literally dye the surface of hair temporarily—dropping tiny color polymers onto the hair’s outer layer,” explains White.
Wilson adds: “It’s strictly a cosmetic effect — like putting a lip stain on lips.”
Despite their fleeting payoff, most salon colorists are fans, saying these formulas keep color vibrant longer — and since they’re clearly targeted for color-treated hair, they’re likely to contain all the aforementioned healthy hair go-tos (milder surfactants, moisturizers and UV protection”>. “They replace pigments lost from shampooing or sun exposure to maintain a rich tone, ” says White, who suggests diluting them a bit by mixing one with your normal color-safe shampoo so they don’t eclipse your colorists’ hard work. “They’re a great way for clients to make minor adjustments to their color without having to run back to the salon.”
Marie Robinson, owner of the Marie Robinson Salon in New York City advocates for these tinted cleansers but warns: “If it isn’t the right tone match, it’ll alter the original, intended shade.” Don’t risk a botched color job by picking up just any bottle brown, red or blonde shade; ask a colorist what the tint is going to do your color.
TRY: L’Oreal Colorist Collection shampoos; $26; Quantum Riveting Reds Color Replenishing Shampoo, $7
A new study published in this month’s issue of Archives of Dermatology suggests that your hairstylist may be one of your greatest defenses against skin cancer.
In the survey of 203 hair professionals spanning 17 salons in the Houston area, 37.1 percent reported looking at clients’ scalps for signs of suspicious lesions, while 28.8 percent looked over necks and 15.3 percent closely studied faces for suspicious lesions during routine hair services.
What makes the findings especially pertinent is that while melanoma of the scalp and neck represented only six percent of all skin cancer cases, it accounted for 10 percent of all melanoma deaths in the United States from 1973 to 2003. Experts say that growths on sun-prone areas like the tips of ears and scalp can often escape notice until cancer has spread to a later stage, which may attribute to the higher fatality rate.
Read More: Health Vitality Quiz
Because hairstylists work so closely with the head and often see clients on a regular basis, they’re in the unique position to detect changes that may signal a cancerous lesion. And since many ‘regulars’ often chat openly about health, diet and medical care while sitting for a color service or routine trim, stylists often get a more comprehensive view of wellbeing than even a personal physician.
“This study provides evidence that hair professionals are currently acting as lay health advisors for skin cancer detection and prevention and are willing to become more involved in skin cancer education in the salon,” says lead researcher Elizabeth E. Bailey, M.D. of Brigham and Women’s Hospital and Harvard School of Public Health in Boston. A follow-up study, supported by the Melanoma Foundation of New England aims to educate hair professionals about detecting skin cancer.
Stylists like Natasha Sunshine of L.A.’s Byu-Ti Salon have helped in part to increase survival rates by detecting skin cancer before it can take hold.
Read More: Six Beauty Issues That Signal Health Problems
While giving her own father, 61-year-old Andrew Bycoffe, a haircut, she noticed an irregular mole she didn’t remember seeing while previously working on his hair. After urging her father to see a dermatologist, the lesion was determined to be pre-cancerous.
It was surgically removed before the cells could propagate.
Read More: Get Sunscreen Savvy
The latest crop of curling irons promise to deliver everything from natural, beachy waves to perfect red-carpet spirals, thanks to innovative new barrel shapes and user-friendly designs. We put ’em to the test, with a little help from stylist Joshua Peter of Brooklyn’s super-cool Graceland Salon, plus some YouBeauty testers.
1. Goody Heat Wave Creator
“Undulating” isn’t normally a word you’d use to describe a curling iron, but when it comes to this new iron from Goody, it fits the bill perfectly. The unusual wavy barrel serves a purpose, say the folks who created it: It allows the iron to have two distinct sizes, 1 inch and ½ inch, which makes for a more natural-looking curl. Makes sense if you think about it — real curls aren’t perfectly symmetrical, so this iron is designed to replicate that effect.
Tester says: “It heats up fast and it’s super simple to use. Just place a section in the clamp at the bottom and wind upward. The curls vary in diameter, so the effect is natural and not too fussy—more like real waves instead of perfect spirals. Just don’t take too large a section or hair tends to slip out of the clamp.”
Stylist says: “It’s good for an imperfect curl — meaning that individual sections will have different sizes with various textures and movement. It’s a nice change from the classic, clean finish that most curling irons usually achieve.”
Read More: Face Shape Quiz
2. The Beachwaver
Used to be, if you wanted to wind your hair around a curling iron, you had to do it the old-fashioned way. Not so with this new iron from celebrity stylist Sarah Potempa. It’s like the iPhone of curling irons. Just place a section of hair in the clamp at the bottom, press the “go” button and the barrel rotates automatically. “I’ve had so many people tell me they don’t know how to curl their hair,” says Potempa. “I wanted to create an iron that was easy to use and gave you gorgeous waves.”
Tester says: “It looks a little intimidating at first, but it’s actually really easy to use. It forces you to hold the barrel upright, which gives a nice spiral result, and because the barrel isn’t too skinny, the curls are big and sexy-looking. You set it on “left” or “right” depending on what side you’re doing, so it’s pretty much goof-proof — your curls are always going in the correct direction.”
Stylist says: “The large barrel is good for softer curls and for smoothing out your blow-dry — it gives hair a shapely, rounded look. What I like most is the little clip at the bottom. The worst part about using an iron is the rough texture you get at the tip of each section. With this, after winding the hair you can clip the section down at the bottom of the wand to smooth the entire piece. You end up with a nice ringlet-type curl.”
The Beachwaver, $199
Read More: Celebrities Who Embrace Their Curly Hair
3. Infiniti by Conair You Wrap & Weave
This double-barreled iron is designed to be used three different ways: Use the second barrel as a clamp to create skinny spiral curls; wrap hair around the outside of both barrels for looser oval-shaped waves; or weave hair through the barrels in a figure-8 motion to create natural S-shaped waves. It comes with a protective glove that lets you wrap hair around the barrel without burning your fingers, too. Very Michael Jackson “Thriller,” but practical.
Tester says: “Using the second barrel as a clamp gave me tight spiral curls with straighter roots — kind of a cool, Kate Moss-at-her-30th-birthday-party look. It was easy to do, and I’d definitely wear that style to a party. Weaving hair through the barrels was trickier. I got the hang of it eventually, but I had to practice, so it’s not something I’d do every day.”
Stylist says: “A double-barrel iron like this can give you more of a messy, frizzy result. The barrels are only a quarter-inch, so you’ll definitely get a tighter curl. It’s not a look for everyone, but some women might want to try it.”
Infiniti by Conair You Wrap & Weave, $46
Read More: The Science of Spring 2012’s Beauty Trends
Hairspray: It’s a word that conjures up so many images — most of them outdated.
Consider the bouffant, beehive, and pompadour, to say nothing of those gravity-defying ‘80s signatures like the über-teased bangs, side pony, asymmetrical chops and Flock of Seagulls styles; all impossible without this sticky aerosol fixative.
Would you believe that hairspray had its roots in a U.S. Department of Agriculture project in wartime 1940s to develop a canister able to disperse malaria-fighting insect spray? The resulting fluorocarbon aerosol cans begot Helene Curtis Spray Net in 1950 along with a legion of competitors (including the still-going-strong classic, Aqua Net”>.
Although the cans later came under scrutiny when their ozone layer-depleting powers were exposed, alternative propellants and mechanical pump sprays soon took their place.
The hairsprays that followed in the ensuing decades did the job — perhaps too well — making these styling spritzes synonymous with helmet head, hard-to-wash-out lacquers, a crunchy, gummy texture and alcohol-based formulas.
But those days are over. “The difference in hairsprays today is that while they may contain some of the same styling polymers, the technology has changed to deliver hold with a soft, smooth finish while preventing frizz,” says Rodney Cutler, a stylist, salon owner and Redken Brand Ambassador. In fact, many women use hairsprays solely for their humidity-repelling powers.
Read More: Healthy Hair Quiz
“How it’s applied makes the difference with any hairspray,” says celebrity stylist Jim Crawford. “Remember: Hold the can 12 inches from the head and use a light coating for better staying power and a soft, natural look.”
There are so many tricks today’s hairsprays can do — from hold to height and humidity protection — that this ‘80s staple is back in rotation. Here’s to hoping scrunchies aren’t next.
Read More: Weather-Related Hair Emergencies—Solved.
Hairsprays for Every Need
- Anti-Humidity. A mix of argan oil and coconut extract to nourish strands while forming a barrier against humidity (they claim it reduces frizz by 87 percent”>. This fine mist dries instantly delivering light hold. Nexxus Frizz Defy Frizz Protection Hair Spray.
- Unscented. This European stylist favorite made landfall on our shores four short years ago and quickly found a new legion of devotee for its residue-free lasting hold that remained soft to the touch. L’Oréal Paris Elnett Satin Extra Strong Hold Unscented.
- Color Protection. Formulated without water to protect hair color, this non-dulling, fast-drying spritz gives medium, flexible hold without any flaking. Use it as a styling or finishing product. Pureology ColourStylist Strengthening Control Zero Dulling Hairspray.
- Variable Hold. Some styles (beachy waves”> require movement, while others (an up-do”> need to be shellacked in place. Same money and counter space with a multi-taker that lets you dial up or dial down the intensity. Three strength settings (soft, medium and strong”> render flexible hold. Unite GO365 Hairspray.
- Rock Solid Hold. For those times you need to keep every single hair in place, get lasting lift and eight hours of humidity protection thanks to this hair spray’s vitamin E and antioxidant-infused Spray-Strong Complex. Redken Forceful 23 Super-Strength Finishing Spray.
- Volume. Add life to limp locks by targeting the roots for fullness, lift and hold. This formula stands up to humidity, static, and UV rays—sans stickiness. Ideal for fine hair. Big Sexy Hair Spray & Play.
- Shine. Lock in sassy styles with a hair spray that adds luminosity without buildup. Argan oil leaves hair weightless, manageable, and touchable. Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Medium.
- Waves. Recreate a day at the beach with a texturizing spray for a tousled, sea air texture. Mist on wet hair and air- or blow-dry for big waves, curls and definition that lasts. Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger Texturizing Sea Spray.
- Green. Love the performance of hairspray but feeling guilty about aerosol’s effects on the environment? Find all-day brushable hold in a fast-drying, flake resistant formula that’s offset by renewable energy funding for a net-zero impact on the earth’s climate. Aveda Control Force Firm Hold Hairspray.
- Second Day Style. Volume. Inject some oomph into slept-on styles, blot out oils and add texture with this dry shampoo and volumizing hairspray hybrid. John Frieda Luxurious Volume Anytime Volume Refresher.
When you’re looking to alter your hair color — whether that means making it lighter or darker, covering up grays or simply adding a little oomph to your current shade — there are several ways to go about it.
You can use a semi-permanent product if you want the color to last for just a few shampoos (great, for example, if you want to toss in a pink streak for a party, but want it mostly faded away by the time you get to the office Monday morning”>. If you’re looking to make a more long-term commitment, however, you’ll want to seek out permanent color. Rather than washing out, this type of dye needs to grow out of your hair — and since hair only grows about half an inch a month, it can take a while for it to disappear completely.
But somewhere in the middle lies the hair color sweet spot that many women crave. It’s called demi-permanent hair color.
“This type of product will stay in the hair for 28 shampoos,” explains Teca Lewellyn, a Procter & Gamble Beauty Scientist. “So depending on how frequently you wash your hair, it will take about a month to a month and half to gently fade away.”
How it Works
Demi-permanent hair color molecules get under the outer cuticle of the hair shaft, but unlike permanent dyes, they don’t penetrate the deeper cortex. “They basically get temporarily stuck just beneath the cuticle until they are washed out,” says Lewellyn. “The difference with permanent color is that the dye has to swell the cuticle to make it lift and allow the molecules to make their way into the cortex deep inside the hair shaft.”
Demi-permanent may not be the answer for everyone and every hair situation, but it does have several key advantages.
It can cover up to 70 percent of your grays
“It’s a great solution for someone who’s just starting to go gray and wants to experiment with color,” says Lisa Evan, a colorist at Mario Russo Salon in Boston. “It gives a very natural result because the grays will take the color differently from the other strands, which means hair ends up with an almost highlighted look.”
You’ll never have obvious roots
Permanent color invades the hair shaft and lodges itself there, well, permanently. So instead of fading away gradually, like demi-permanent color does, your hair stays whatever color you’ve dyed it, and as your hair grows, the new stuff at the roots will be the old color (or gray”>. With demi-permanent there’s no obvious line of demarcation so you don’t need to worry about touching up your roots every few weeks.
Your hair will look healthy and shiny
“Demi-permanent is much gentler on the hair than permanent color,” say Evans. That’s because it doesn’t open up the cuticle as much or penetrate inside the cortex of the hair shaft. “The integrity of the hair is better when the cuticle stays intact.”
It can enhance and add dimension to your natural color
Demi-permanent hair color contains no peroxide, which means it’s much gentler on your strands, but also means that it won’t dramatically alter the color (especially if you’re hoping to go lighter than your natural shade”>. What it can do is warm up your color, give it more life and luster, blend away your grays and deepen your shade slightly. “It’s like what happens when you polish a wood table and the brilliance of all the different shades in the wood suddenly come out,” says Lewellyn. “You’re enhancing what’s already there.”
It’s hard to screw it up
The downside of demi-permanent is that you can’t make a dramatic change (it’s not for you if you’re goal is to take your brown strands platinum blonde”>. But the upside of that limitation is that very little can go wrong. Plan to stick with a color that’s within one to two shades of what you’ve got and the result will be a beautifully enhanced version of your natural color.
You don’t have to make a big commitment
“Demi-permanent color is a great introduction to hair color,” says Lewellyn. “If you’re nervous about the process, this is perfect because it’ll fade away within a month or so.” And because you won’t get obvious roots, you’re not obligated to keep coloring your hair on a regular schedule.
A few demi-permanent colors to try at home:
- Clairol Natural Instincts: Fortified with antioxidants, this formula helps hair defend itself against free radical damage during the coloring process. In 22 shades; $9.
- L’Oréal Paris Healthy Look Crème Gloss Color: This ammonia-free formula leaves hair glossy while blending away grays. In 21 shades; $10.
- Garnier HerbaShine Color Creme: Nourishing bamboo extract conditions hair while it colors. In 18 shades; $8.
We’ve slathered on anti-aging skin potions for centuries, but did you know that hair can age just like skin? While grays are often referenced as a giveaway of getting older, locks can also age by becoming thin, fragile and limp with time.
A glance at the hair care aisle shows brands are increasingly using terms like “anti-aging” and “age-defying” to market products that claim to restore hair to its younger, stronger, more smooth and lustrous self.
But do these formulas really make a difference?
Good Housekeeping Research Institute delves into that question in their Second Annual Anti-Aging Awards, which puts over 100 hair care products with ageless claims to the test with both science lab studies and nearly 600 female testers age 35 or older.
“Anti-aging hair products are a growing segment of the beauty market, and there are a lot of brands out there making claims. Our readers want to know where to spend their money, and we’re unique in that we have the tools to scientifically evaluate the effectiveness of products in the Good Housekeeping Research Institute,” explains Rosemary Ellis, editor-in-chief of Good Housekeeping.
The Science Behind the Testing
For the panel testing, product labels were blackened with electrical tape to guard against brand name bias. Testers used cleansing and styling products multiple times over one week to judge consistency on claims of softer, shinier and smoother hair. For hair color, results were evaluated at the three to four week mark, in accordance with claims printed on the box.
In the lab, a team of scientists divided nine pounds of human hair to create 736 swatches. Brown hair swatches used for product testing were bleached to induce aging damage, while 100% gray hair was used for permanent haircolor testing, and gray blends for demi-permanent color testing.
To judge how well the anti-aging hair products performed, the lab created unique equipment to test hair swatches. The Instron, which methodically combs through hair, measures the amount of friction while moving through wet and dry hair – the less resistance, the healthier and more protected hair is against breakage.
Read More: Healthy Hair Quiz
A shine cylinder calculated the amount of surface reflection under exactly the same environment, and a washing station provided controlled temperature and water pressure speed so that all swatches experienced the same cleansing conditions. For hair color testing, the Accelerated Weathering Tester bathed swatches in UV light to see how quickly hair color would fade with daily wear.
Anti-aging tips for your hair
Fortunately for those of us without a team of engineers devising complex product tests, there are some general rules to live by for healthier, younger-looking hair.
“On average, we naturally shed about 100 hairs per day that are replaced by new hairs. As we age, this process shortens, so hair becomes thinner…and can look frayed or wiry,” says Zahir Ziani, National Creative Director of Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa. Lipid production also slows, causing hair to texture to change to a drier, duller finish.
Read More: Hair Loss Discussion
Hair care is truly an area where the “less means more” approach wins out. To combat the weakening, you’ll want to embrace your natural texture, and lay off chemical processes like straightening and over-coloring that can further deplete the protein strength of your strands. Refrain also from turning up the temperature level on styling tools past low to medium heat, and don’t let irons sit on one section of hair for too long, advises Zahir.
Regular trims maintained every four to six weeks refresh strands and keep ends bouncier and youthful. If your strands are feeling especially lifeless, consider taking daily hair-healthy supplements like biotin and B vitamins — specifically B-2, B-5, B-12 — for stronger hair, adds Zahir.
Read More: Supplement Your Beauty
Good Housekeeping’s 2011 Anti-Aging Award Winners
Shampoo & Conditioner
- Gold winner: Pureology Nanoworks Shampoo & Conditioner, $53 each
- Silver winner: Biolage Rejuvathérapie Age Rejuvenating Shampoo and Conditioner, $18 and $19
Deep Conditioners
- Gold winner: Age Beautiful Intense Strengthening Treatment, $10
- Silver winner: Redken Time Reset Youth Revitalizer, $14
Permanent Haircolor
- Gold winner: Revlon ColorSilk with UV Defense, $3.69, Available in deep brown, and more.
- Silver winner: Couture Colour, $30. Try their new Pequi Oil Treatment, $32.
Root Touch-Ups
Instant Root Touch-Ups
- Gold winner: Irene Gari Cover Your Gray Professional, $7
- Silver winners (tie”>: Andre Walker Hair Make-Up Color Blend Wand, $12, and QuickTint, $15
Demi-Permanent Haircolor
- Gold winner: Clairol Natural Instincts, $9
- Silver winner: Garnier HerbaShine Color Crème With Bamboo Extract, $8
Leave-In Treatments
- Gold winner: L’anza Healing Strength Neem Plant Silk Serum, $26
- Silver winner: Biolage Rejuvathérapie Age Rejuvenating Leave-In Densifier, $18
Who would have thought? The key to young, beautiful hair is to “embrace your natural texture.”
Everyone wants shiny, bouncy, commercial-worthy hair. In the quest for that flawless mane, many people torture their hair on a regular basis with blow dryers, flat irons or curling irons and then top it off with harsh treatments such as chemical straightening. But these everyday habits harm your delicate strands and can lead to the string of bad hair days you were hoping to avoid.
The good news? Luscious locks are within your reach. By taking some smart steps, you can dial down the damage and help your hair reach its gorgeous and glossy potential.
Styling Tools
While it can be as hard to part with your blow dryer or flat iron as it is to walk away from a pair of Manolos at a 70 percent off sale, styling tools only scorch and tug at your hair, causing major damage. Follow these tips to save your strands.
1. Blow dryer
When your hair is wet, water collects under the cuticles (the outermost layer of the hair”>. The heat from blow-drying causes the water to form bubbles that stress and break the hair, leading to split ends and dullness.
Drying every day can lead to some serious damage. Spacing out your blow-dry sessions can help minimize the risk. But the key to a healthier blowout is to use cool air, or towel-dry, and then use low heat and hit the off button as soon as your hair feels dry. Even just a few unnecessary seconds from a heat blast is a one-way ticket to Fried Hairsville.
2. Hot tools
Hot tools like curling irons and flat irons are awesome for coaxing strands into certain styles, but they’re also a hair health killer. Heating hair above 212 degrees (the temp at which water boils”> just once can cause bubble hair, which is similar to the effect of boiling water on the stove. In this case, bubbles form inside your hair shaft, causing brittleness and breakage. Not using a hot tool every day helps minimize the risk, but when you do use your tool, don’t hold it on one spot. Keep it moving in a fluid motion.
3. Hot rollers
Hot rollers can dry out your hair just like any heated styling tool can, but the real danger here is rolling them too tight. Constant tension at the roots can cause the hair to fall out, so go easy.
Read More: Hair Care Tips
4. Pressing
Pressing with a hot comb can cause all sorts of damage. The combs are generally heated to at least 150 degrees, which can cause bubble hair, a condition in which the water in the hair actually boils, forming bubbles inside the shaft. The bubbles make the hair prone to severe breakage. If you prefer pressing, it’s best to leave it to a professional who has experience controlling heated combs. To minimize damage, don’t press your hair more than once a week.
5. Bobby Pins
Super-cute—and super-terrible for your hair. Bobby pins grip the hair tightly and cut into the hair shaft; use them repeatedly in the same spot and you’ll notice breakage. Scale back on your bobby-pin usage, or move them around so you’re not hitting the same areas every time.
6. Elastic Bands
The nature of elastic bands is to grip the hair tightly so it will stay in place, but that gripping cuts into the hair shaft and causes fraying. If you wear your hair in a ponytail every day, you might notice breakage near where you put the elastic band. Minimize damage by using thick, fabric-coated bands (never use rubbery elastics!”> and give your ponytail a break, or consider a shorter haircut.
7. Brush
For all the women who don’t have a pixie cut, brushes are kind of a necessary evil. We say “evil” because brushing causes wear and tear on the hair’s cuticle (the outer layer that seals in shine”>. Brush with a gentle touch! Vigorously brushing your hair Marcia Brady–style can cause all sorts of damage. Avoid metal brushes at all costs—they can actually lacerate the hair. Stick with smooth plastic or natural bristle, neither of which will snag the cuticle as much.
8. Comb
If you use a comb to detangle your hair, for best results, start from the bottom and gently work your way up. Vigorously pulling a comb through your hair from the top down can snap strands like a rubber band. A wide-tooth comb made from plastic or wood is best—always avoid metal combs, because metal can lacerate the hair.
Chemical Processing
Whether you’re trying to disguise gray strands or want smooth, straight hair that behaves in bad weather, chemical processing such as coloring and straightening can harm your hair. Here’s how to minimize the damage to your mane.
9. Semi-permanent Color
All coloring processes reduce elasticity to some degree (less elasticity means more breakage”>. Semi-permanent color is less damaging than permanent color or lifting (colorists’ fancy word for bleaching”>. That’s because the dyes used have small molecules, so they get into the hair shaft easily, without damaging the outer layer. For the same reason, they also wash out quickly. Leave-in conditioners can help smooth the cuticle, which increases shine and helps your hair hold on to color for longer.
Read More: Aging Hair Bleaches Itself
10. Permanent Dye
Permanent dye deposits color into your hair shaft. The solution most likely contains hydrogen peroxide and ammonia to open up the cuticle and drive the color molecules into the hair. Unless a full bleaching process is required to change the hair color, permanent dyes are less damaging than lifting (colorists’ fancy word for bleaching”>. However, the cuticle (the outside layer of hair”> still gets roughed up a bit. Leave-in conditioners can help smooth the cuticle, which increases shine and helps your hair hold on to color for longer.
Unless you have extreme color fade, it’s not necessary to color your entire head every time. Just concentrate on the roots. If you repeatedly darken your entire head, your ends will get darker over time. That’s because your hair gets more porous toward the ends, and porous hair absorbs more color. This is the opposite of the natural look — natural hair is darker at the roots and subtly fades lighter as it grows out. If your hair looks brassy, counteract it with a cool-toned gloss (also know as toner”>, which will restore your color without depositing more pigment.
11. Lifting
While the results can be gorgeous when you lift your hair all over (lifting is colorists’ fancy word for bleaching”>, the process is super-damaging to your locks. Lifting requires hydrogen peroxide to strip the natural color, which increases porosity and raises the scales on the hair’s outer layer. This leads to less shine, more breakage and chronic dryness. Get thee a protein-rich hair mask, stat! Protein is a natural polymer that attaches to the hair, helping to fill in damaged areas. It forms a smooth, light coating that’s great for any hair type.
If you repeatedly lift, or lighten, your hair, it will get more porous over time and eventually become prone to severe breakage. Focus the color on your roots, and if the rest of your hair gets brassy, counteract it with a cool-toned gloss (also know as toner”>, which will restore your color without stripping your hair.
12. Highlights
Highlights lift, aka bleach, the hair—a process that requires hydrogen peroxide to strip the natural color. This increases porosity, leading to less shine and more breakage. With highlights, you’re not lifting your entire head of hair, which does minimize the amount of potential damage, but it’s important to treat your highlights with tender loving care to prevent as much breakage as possible. Get in the habit of using a protein-rich hair mask regularly. Adding protein back into the hair will help fill in the holes and decrease breakage.
Read More: The Science of Highly Textured Hair
13. Keratin Straightening
Also known as the Brazilian blowout, keratin straightening is considered a miracle by many curly-haired gals. In this process, the hair is coated with a keratin solution and pressed in place with a flat iron. The solution can help restore the hair shaft and make your hair more resilient than before, but trouble occurs if the stylist uses a flat iron that’s too hot.
Scorching is common, and that can lead to mega-breakage, so if you notice broken hair after your treatment, speak up next time and ask your stylist to turn down the heat. Also, it’s important to keep in mind that most keratin solutions contain formaldehyde, a highly toxic carcinogen, which is why we don’t give this service the thumb’s up.
14. Straightening
Permanent relaxing chemically breaks microscopic bonds in the hair so the strands can be manipulated into a straight style. Red hair and African-American hair can be more difficult to straighten, and more likely to suffer damage. The straightening process weakens the hair structure, so breakage and splitting are common. Relaxing virgin hair can be damaging, but most of the trouble arises when the solution is applied to already-straightened areas. Even if your stylist is applying the solution only to your roots, it’s difficult to avoid at least some overlap.
15. Body Wave or Perm
Perms chemically break microscopic bonds in the hair so the strands can be manipulated into a wavier style. The bonds reform in a curlier shape, a delicate process that continues for two to three days after treatment (which is why you can’t wash your hair”>. Perming virgin hair isn’t terribly damaging (though it still breaks down the hair’s structure”>, but trouble arises when the solution is applied to already-permed areas. Brillo hair! Even if your stylist is applying the solution only to your roots, it’s difficult to avoid at least some overlap.
Hair Habits
Swimming in chlorinated pools, sporting tight braids and stressing out can leave you with less than healthy hair. Find out why these habits are harmful.
16. Tight Twists or Braids
Tight twists and braids cause what’s known as tensile stress, which is basically a constant tugging on the hair follicle. Regular tensile stress can cause permanent hair loss, known as traction hair loss. For African-American women, tight twists and braids commonly lead to hair loss at the hairline, and in the middle of the scalp, a condition that’s even more likely among women who also have Type 2 diabetes (though scientists aren’t sure why yet”>. The only way to prevent this type of hair loss is to chillax on the super-tight braids—give your hair follicles a chance to recover.
Read More: Wavy Celebrity Bed Head Hairstyles
17. Chlorinated Water
Swimming in a pool may feel heavenly, but it’s hellish for your hair. The chemicals in chlorine suck the moisture out of hair strands, which can lead to severe dryness or straw-like texture. If you dye your hair, the chemicals can react with your hair color—blond hair can turn green (it’s rust from the copper in chlorine oxidizing on your hair”> and darker shades can turn brassy (chlorine dries out the hair, which affects color”>.
To protect your locks at your next swim session, apply a thick conditioner or a mixture of waterproof suntan oil and conditioner. Comb it through your hair to coat each strand. This will protect your hair from chlorine (or salt, if you swim at the beach”> and lock in moisture. After swimming, wash your hair immediately with a shampoo designed to remove chlorine or at least rinse with plain shower water, and use a heavy-duty conditioner.
18. Stress
Stress has a profound effect on hair. A traumatic emotional or physical event can screw up your hair’s growth cycle, which means that about three months after the major stress, you might pull out clumps of hair while brushing or washing. Most people grow the hair back once the trauma has passed, but it can take months. Stress can also cause hair to turn gray. The tendency to go gray is mostly genetic, but if you have chronic stress in your life, it sure ain’t helping.
Read More: Forget-me-Not: The Essential Headband
While some of us define ourselves by our faces and bodies, others place a lot of weight on how our hair looks. After all, hair (on your scalp, face and body”> is our body’s fashion statement. You’re born with a natural hair color, shape and hairstyle.
Then, we get old enough to realize we have the power to control how good (or bad”> our hair looks. We decide how long or short it is, or how black or blonde (or blue”> it is. You can show people how sexy (or potentially wacky”> you are with a few simple snips. People become inspirations (thank you, Ms. Aniston”>, or the proud butt of jokes (Mr. Trump”>.
Why We Need Hair
Hair used to be a whole lot more purposeful than body ornamentation. Sure, it protects us from the sun. Our eyelashes act as defense against bugs, dust and other foreign particles. But back in the day, the hair covering our nether regions camouflaged our reproductive parts from threats. By lining our armpits and groins, our dry hair also lubricates our arms and legs helping us move about without chafing.
For early humans, hair kept them warm, provided camouflage, protected them from cuts and even served as a nice handhold for the young. We lost a lot of hair because of the invention of heaters and parkas. Our ancestors most likely started hunting in hot, tropical areas.
Bare skin adds to our internal cooling system’s efficiency. So why’d we keep the tuft at the top? It may have to do with a little mating ritual. Males with the most impressive hair frightened away rivals, got the girl and fathered some kiddies. Hence, head hair may have played a big role in obtaining a partner and producing the next generation.
Different Kinds of Hair
Hair on your face grows as you age. The hair on and in your ears protects you from insects that might find your ear canal interesting. You recruit dormant follicles so you can grow more hair to keep warm in the winter.
As far as your nose hairs, beware of pulling them out. This can lead to infections from traumatized hair follicles. Infections in the area from the bridge of the nose to the corner of the mouth can drain into the brain and cause a clot in the cavernous sinus. You can use a specialized nose-hair clipper that acts as a weed whacker for your nostrils.
Read More: Want to Try Laser Hair Removal?
You may have noticed that pubic hair is quite different from head hair. Given that pubic hair has a short growth period, it never gets a chance to grow longer, less curly and less coarse. Within six months, these hair follicles die and the hair falls out.
Pubic hair has a few purposes we know of. It acts as a buffer to reduce chafing and helps to hide the genitals. Pubic hair also provides a large surface area to disperse sweat. Many animals attract potential partners with the odor of sweat from the groin and underarms, but today, these odors most likely keep people on the other side of the elevator.
In the past and present, hair helps protect against malaria. Our hair signals the presence of the Anopheles mosquito before it bites. Kids are at greater risk for malaria because they have less hair on their legs. The most likely purpose of our hair was probably to serve as an early warning of bodily threats. With the advent of the bikini wax and laser hair removal, we often ignore the armoring function of hair.
Final Thoughts
Aside from these utilitarian functions, hair reflects a lot about our self-esteem, gender, taste, age and attitude. It plays a big role in determining how people are attracted to us, and who we’re attracted to.
Hair can even be a source of conflict. Women sometimes prefer shorter hair, especially as they age. Men report being attracted to longer locks. On a more important note, hair shows us much about our health status. Hair growth and hair loss can signal mishaps inside our bodies. We care about our hair. It’s no surprise that people in the United States alone spend $50 billion on hair care.
We care about cleaning it, beautifying it and keeping it in some places (while removing it from others”>. Like skin, your hair can also glow and shine. You just have to use the right solutions for you, to keep your hair at its best.
Hair is obviously much more than something you just cut and shave. But, what does your hair mean to you?
Making the news rounds today is a sensationalist headline about shampoo having “chemical calories” that can make you fat.
Say, what?
Over the past few years, researchers have found that chemicals called phthalates can act as endocrine disruptors that can mimic hormones and screw around with the hormone-producing glands.
Since hormones and glands are so intricately tied to weight, research institutions, including Mount Sinai in New York City, Stirling University in Scotland and many others, have since started researching the link between obesity and common chemicals you come in contact with every day. Phthalates and their pal, Bisphenol A (BPA, often found in plastic water bottles”> are at the top of the study list.
So where does the jump to shampoo come from? Phthalates are commonly found in shampoo, hence, “shampoo makes you fat.”
Freak out factor: Low
Don’t go tossing your shampoo just yet.
Phthalates, BPA and loads of other chemicals are found in everything from toilet cleaner to perfume to canned food tins. The studies are focusing on peoples’ cumulative toxic exposure, and shampoo is only a tiny piece of the puzzle. Furthermore, the link to obesity is preliminary at best.
Minimizing your toxin exposure is great for your health in general, and by all means, buy organic food whenever possible and trade out your harsh bathtub cleaner for a homemade vinegar mixture. You can even switch your shampoo for an all-natural version if you’re concerned about toxin exposure.
But if you’re watching your weight…sorry. Ditching your poos won’t replace a trip to the gym.
What about you? Does this make you want to toss your phthalate-containing shampoo?
Highly textured hair is blessed with lots and lots of tightly coiled curls. A head of gorgeously kinky curls is the envy of many a limp-locked women, but those with it often complain that it has a mind of its own. Usually fine, sometimes course, and always fragile, textured hair should be trimmed more frequently than other hair types — every four to six weeks is a must.
Mechanics of a Textured Haircut
Like any hair type, the right cut is essential. But for highly textured hair, it’s beyond crucial. The right cut gives naturally textured hair shape and manageability. “You have to be much more cautious when cutting this hair type because the shape stands out more when you cut it,” says celebrity stylist David Babaii. Translation: There’s absolutely no room for error. According to the experts, a layered cut is best for this hair type because it removes bulk, creates movement, and notes celebrity stylist and salon owner Ted Gibson, “it gives shape to otherwise shapeless hair.” It also helps with curl placement — the layers create a cascading effect where the curls fall into each other, creating better flow, balance and as previously mentioned, shape.
Read More: Hair Color and Your Skintone
A layered style is universal to all lengths — short, medium or long, with minor adjustments to the layers. If the hair is long (below the shoulders”>, your stylist should cut long layers throughout the hair. Medium lengths (at or just above the shoulder”> can go longer as well, though too long could create a blunt effect which “will make the hair sit out as opposed to flat,” says Motions celebrity stylist Ursula Stephens. Shorter hair (chin or above”> can handle shorter layers. However, your stylist must account for spring when cutting smaller layers. Stephens also says to avoid bangs for this exact reason.
Cutting highly textured hair while dry is an absolute. “I always make sure my clients’ hair is blown out prior to cutting so you can see the true length and therefore achieve an accurate cut,” says Stephens. Scissors are the best tool because they give the stylist more control, and create a more uniform shape than other types of shears, such as a razor, which will make the ends look frayed (an existing concern with this hair type”>.
Read More: Why Do We Have Hair?
Relaxed, Textured Hair
Some women with highly textured hair choose to relax their locks. “The coarser the texture, the less styling flexibility there is,” says Stephens. “So a lot of women turn to relaxing the hair to create a foundation for more versatile style.” Smoothing treatments last until the hair is cut or grown out, and allow for more options with the cut. “The rules change when the hair is relaxed because now you’re working with an entirely new texture,” adds Stephens. But it’s best to stick with a cut designed for this hair type, in the event you re-embrace your natural texture.
Read More: Weather Related Hair Emergencies–Solved
Updos for Textured Hair
Whether smoothed or textured, a ponytail is among the most flattering updos. Top knots, where you flip over and pull all the hair to the top of the head and knot it, is also an easy style.
Unless you were lucky enough to be born with picture-perfect hair immune to frizz, breakage and flyaways (yes, Gisele, we’re talking to you”>, you’ve got a few curly hair problems to tackle.
Everyday wear and tear plus harsh hair habits including daily blow drying, wielding hot tools like curling irons and getting chemical straightening treatments punish your strands. The result? Frizzy, crispy, lifeless hair that’s chockfull of split ends.
Rather than putting up with a slew of self-esteem-blowing bad hair days, you can take smart steps to handle these hairy situations. Here’s how to tame your mane and get the healthy, radiant hair you crave.
1. Breakage
Most breakage occurs from everyday wear and tear. Everything you do to your hair — brushing, blow-drying, styling — can tear it. The less you mess with your hair, the less breakage you’ll likely have. Treat your hair like a delicate silk blouse and go easy on the vigorous brushing, scorching heat and tight clips.
2. Thinning
If your mane isn’t as full and lush as it used to be, your hair may be thinning. Maybe your ponytail is getting skinnier, or you can see more of your scalp through your part, which is a sign of allover, evenly dispersed thinning. Or you’ve noticed thinning in small patches.
General thinning is usually due to the natural aging process and hormonal changes, but diet, medical issues, some prescription medications and stress can all be a factor. If you think your hair is unusually thin, consider talking to your doctor. In one U.K. study, 67 percent of the women in a thinning-hair group had the endocrine disorder polycystic ovarian syndrome.
MORE: Hair Color and Your Skintone
If you regularly wear your hair in tight braids or twists, or if you sleep in tight rollers, you might be experiencing traction hair loss, which is when constant tugging on the hair follicle causes patches of hair loss. Sometimes a small bald patch is the first sign of alopecia areata, a disease that causes hair loss. If you can’t think of a reasonable explanation for your thinning hair, see your doctor immediately.
3. Pregnancy-related thinning
During pregnancy, your hair may feel thicker because estrogens extend the growth cycle, leading to longer hair that’s less likely to fall out. Though most common lore says hair always gets thicker, that isn’t the case for a whopping two-thirds of women who see no change or even thinning hair during pregnancy. After birth, your hair may fall out in clumps as the growth cycle shortens again. Don’t worry; you’re not balding! Your system is just resetting. The changes you see are rarely permanent — hair typically goes back to normal over time.
4. Frizz
Fine, curly hair is most prone to frizz, but any hair type can get frizzy. Hair is dependent on the whims of humidity, because hair expands when exposed to dampness and reverts back to whatever your natural texture is (unless you have a permanent straightening treatment”>. The healthier the hair, the less likely it is to frizz, and anti-frizz products can help to some degree.
5. Flyaways
Flyaways are usually broken pieces of hair sticking out at a jagged angle. Do whatever you can to prevent breakage (deep-conditioning masks, chilling on the hot tools”> and get your hair trimmed every six weeks to eliminate frayed ends.
6. Split ends
Truth time. There is no such thing as a split-end mender. The only way to get rid of them is to cut them off. If you’re prone to split ends, regular trims (every six weeks”> can help control them. If your ends are getting super-tangled and hard to comb, you may consider cutting your hair to a shorter length. Split ends are caused by daily wear and tear, hot tools, blow dryers, brushes — anything that damages the hair. When you notice split ends or tangled hair, it’s time to crop those locks.
7. Limpness
Flat hair with no body or bounce is usually a fine-haired gal’s problem, because the extra oil glands in fine hair produce more sebum, which makes hair appear heavier. Dry shampoo can do wonders for absorbing oil and lifting the roots. Thicker-haired folks might start to see limpness if their hair is thinning. This could be due to aging, but if your hair is thinning and it seems out of the ordinary, see your doctor stat.
MORE: Why Do We Have Hair?
8. Too much volume
Although ladies with fine hair might kill for some of your volume, your hair can be hard to manage. The key here is getting the right haircut for your hair type. Investing in a great cut can make all the difference in the world.
9. No shine
Shine happens when the cuticle (outside layer of hair”> lies flat and reflects light. The healthier the hair, the shinier it is. Overuse of hot tools or multiple chemical processes damage the cuticle layer and rob hair of its beautiful luster. Heat-protectant styling products (to use before tools”> can help.
10. Won’t grow as long as you’d like
Everyone has a unique hair growth cycle, which determines how long your hair grows before it falls out. A shorter cycles means you can’t grow your hair past a certain point – sometimes that’s shoulder length. Although there isn’t much you can do about this, also consider that your hair is breaking off before it can reach its potential length. Getting your hair trimmed every six weeks will eliminate frayed ends and help your hair reach its full potential.
11. Tangles
Tangles happen when the cuticle (the outside layer”> gets roughed up and clings to neighboring strands like Velcro. Chemical processes, hot tools and everyday wear and tear are tough on the cuticle. Be gentle when combing out tangles so you don’t make the damage worse — a dollop of conditioner on the area will help your comb slide through smoothly.
12. Greasiness
Greasiness most often happens in fine hair, but it can strike anyone. If you frequently use silicone-rich hair products, wax or pomade, your grease might be from product buildup. Alternate in a clarifying shampoo every three to four washes. Also, dry shampoo can be a godsend for sopping up oil at the roots and adding volume.
MORE: Weather Related Hair Emergencies–Solved
13. Dryness
There are tons of reasons you might have dry hair — chemical processing, frequent dips in a pool, overuse of a blow dryer or just plain ol’ genetics. Dryness leads to damage, since it reduces the number of hydrogen bonds in your hair (which give your strands flexibility”> and weakens its resistance to daily stresses like brushing or combing. Hydrating shampoos and conditioners can help, as can adding an omega-3 supplement to your diet to add moisture from the outside in.
14. Color fading
Water fades color. In fact, up to 80 percent of color fade is due to water alone. Your hair absorbs water, and as your hair dries, the dyes drain out with the water. If you’re a staunch everyday washer, try every other day. To stretch out the time between washes, try a dry shampoo on your roots to absorb oil and pump up volume.
In an age where Botox derms and Brazilian waxers are readily discussed, there are few beauty taboos left.
While it certainly seems like we’ve seen it all (hello Kardashian bikini line!”>, one thing that’s still swept under the rug, so to speak.
“Hair loss in women is different because unlike men, women aren’t expected to go bald,” explains Robert Bernstein, M.D., founder of the prestigious Bernstein Medical Center for Hair Restoration in New York City.
But while the stigma associated with female hair loss and thinning makes the subject feel taboo, it’s an extremely common complaint. “There’s a misconception that hair loss in women is rare,” Bernstein continues. Truth is, 30 percent of women will experience some form of thinning, whether they’re dishing about it on Facebook or not.
Compounding the issue? “For women, the underlying causes can be a more complicated issue,” he says. Your scalp contains about 100,000 hairs, and you generally lose roughly 100 of them each day. But what amount of hair loss is normal? Here’s what’s really going on, and what you can do about it.
What Gives?
Let’s face it: When it comes to physical changes, hair thinning is alarming, and hair loss? Well, that’s just downright devastating. It’s said to be one of the most personally distressing side effects of chemotherapy, and anyone who’s lost a clump of hair can relate to the accompanying feeling of shock and powerlessness.
Psychologically, it’s a world apart from other so-called beauty “problems,” like peeling nails or even breakouts, but just like wrinkles, hair simply tends to thin with age. Another common complaint is that the hair seems to simply stop growing, which is totally related.
“With women, there can be underlying causes,” says Bernstein. “You have to check for medical problems.”
“It can also just be growing slower because [with age], the growth cycles become shorter,” says Dr. Bernstein.
Here’s the deal: Experts call age-onset thinning “miniaturization,” which refers to a progressive decrease of the hair shaft’s diameter and length. This happens at least in part because of androgens like dihydrotestosterone (or DHT”>, a derivative of the male hormone testosterone that causes hair follicles to literally shrink in diameter. This type of hair thinning is referred to asandrogenic alopecia, and it occurs in an equal pattern all over the scalp. And if this sounds bad, consider yourselves lucky ladies, because for men (and some women”>, this condition usually manifests as more distinct patterns or “patches” of baldness, which tends to be way more noticeable.
This hormonal connection is also one way that thinning hair can be more complicated to diagnose in women. Pregnancy, ovarian cysts, medications, emotional or physical shock and birth control pills can affect hormone levels.
“With women, there can be underlying causes,” says Bernstein. “You have to check for medical problems. For example, polycystic ovarian disease can exacerbate androgens and manifest as thinning, in which case you could treat the condition with an androgen blocker like spironolactone.”
MORE FROM YOUBEAUTY: Hair Loss Can Signal Health Problems
Heredity also plays a role in hair thinning and loss for both sexes. Ever heard the idea that if baldness runs in the men on your mothers’ side, a male spawn is likely to go bald too? Here’s a surprising update on that old wives’ tale: Dr. Bernstein asserts that baldness on either side of family can be indicative for genetic hair loss whether you’re a male or a female.
If you’ve ever noticed an alarming amount of hair — we’re talking about clumps — in your drain or on a hairbrush, think back a few months. That’s because this type of loss, called telogen effluvium, is caused when a trauma triggers the hair in growing phase to shift to shedding phase, usually about six weeks to three months after the event. A “trauma” can be defined as a major surgery, childbirth, or yes, a total stress freakout. While there are cases of this being a chronic disorder, luckily, the shedding phase is usually reversible.
There are many other, less common types of female hair loss (consult Dr. Bernstein’s super educational site, which offers extensive details”> that can be diagnosed by a doc who can administer a “pull test” in order to examine factors such as the diameter of the follicle and what growth stage individual strands are in.
What Helps, What Doesn’t
Lately, it seems a few members of the beauty industry have woken up and decided to start marketing anti-hair loss and anti-thinning products to women. But buyer beware: According to Dr. Bernstein, there’s simply no scientific evidence that any of these trendy new ingredients and herbal concoctions work. Prescription Propecia, also known as finasteride, which helps to lower DHT levels in men, “is not FDA-approved for women,” he says. “Some doctors use it, but there’s some indication that it points to breast problems, so I don’t recommend it.” A two percent minoxidil product, known over-the-counter as Rogaine, can help, but consistency is key: “It has to be used regularly; at least once a day, if not twice.”
While the logical step may seem to be adding hair extensions, unless they’re clip-in and you religiously take them out in the evenings, they’ll only damage hair and even cause more thinning.
In more extreme cases, some women are candidates for Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE”> Hair Transplants, a procedure by which hair is removed directly from the donor region of the scalp and grafted on to thin or bald spots. The latest technology? Because the implant process is so precise, a new device utilizes an image-guided robotic arm to get the job done.
Perhaps more importantly, here’s what not to do if you’re looking to prevent hair loss or don’t want to make a bad sitch worse. While the logical step may seem to be adding hair extensions, unless they’re clip-in and you religiously take them out in the evenings, they’ll only damage hair and even cause more thinning and loss via aggressive rubbing and pulling, which is also referred to as traction alopecia. For this reason, you also want to avoid tight ponytails, headbands, cornrows and any hairstyle or accessory that can pull strands against the scalp. Instead, Dr. Bernstein recommends superficial thickening via Toppik, a readily-available cosmetic keratin fiber that binds to the scalp and hair when you shake it onto thinning areas and makes it appear more full.
And an even simpler solution? Change your part and lighten your hair. “Honestly, I tell my patients that grooming can take [them] a long way,” says Bernstein. While simply shifting a part works for obvious reasons, he points out that color-wise, “people tend to go darker… they think this will mask the problem, but it only emphasizes it. Light reflects more from light, so a lighter hair color provides less contrast between the hair and the scalp.” Additionally, a light perm or wave will give hair more body and make it look thicker, and frequent haircuts will help prevent breakage.
MORE FROM YOUBEAUTY: Hair Loss Linked to Marital Status
As for maintaining the hair you’ve got, don’t neglect the “root” of the problem — your scalp. “A healthy scalp is as important for healthy hair as healthy gums are for healthy teeth,” says David Kingsley, Ph.D., a trichologist and author of the book, The Hair-Loss Cure: A Self-Help Guide. While it’s rare for scalp issues to cause thinning or loss, conditions like oiliness or dryness can totally affect the way hair looks.
“A greasy scalp will make the hair look limp and thin,” Kigsley points out. He also recommends making dietary changes: reduce dairy and fatty foods, as these can cause more flaking, and get tested for iron deficiency. (He also makes a scalp mask and scalp therapy for hair loss.”> Finally, as hair thins, it tends to break more easily as well. “The coating that holds in water becomes drier and more brittle,” says Dr. Bernstein, so be sure to condition well to keep strands hydrated and healthy. After all, you moisturize your face to plump away the look of those aforementioned wrinkles, right?
If you stress over your tresses to the point that unruly hair ruins your mood, you’re not alone.
A survey from Tresemmé showed that 23% of women don’t want to leave their house on a bad hair day. Extreme? Not when you consider that young girls receive more compliments for their hair, smile or eye color than for their soccer skills or math expertise, says Dr. Marianne LaFrance, a professor of psychology, women’s and gender studies at Yale University.
Even if parents take care to spread praise around to include non-beauty traits, the checkout lady at the grocery store is cooing over her long lashes, or a kindly school teacher doles out positive attention by complimenting her braids — there’s no avoiding it.
“From early on, women are given the message that appearance is massively important, and it can become a marker for their success in life,” says LaFrance.
Hair can be a significant piece of that puzzle. In a Harvard study, women who felt that they looked younger after a cut, color or both showed a drop in blood pressure, suggesting that a simple haircut can make your body more youthful.
So the question is, if your hair can make you feel amazing — is that bad? For the most part, no. “Your outward appearance projects things about you, and people will make judgments about you based on that,” says Art Markman, Ph.D., a psychology professor at the University of Texas at Austin, and YouBeauty Psychology Advisor. Hair plays a role because it frames your face and it’s a prominent part of first impressions, so it’s fair game to care.
What’s more, he says, when you look good, it gives you an extra feeling of confidence, which allows you to take risks. You might find the nerve to speak to someone you normally wouldn’t, or do something gutsy in an office presentation. “There’s research that shows when you’re in a positive mood, a lot of things go better,” says Markman.
How Hair Defines You
Besides riding a good-hair high to social and work success, you can use hair to shape your identity. “Because hair is so malleable, it can give women a feeling of control over their bodies which they don’t otherwise have,” says Viren Swami, Ph.D., psychologist at the University of Westminster in London, and YouBeauty Attraction Expert.
Indeed, women have used hair to relay messages about who they are, and where they fit into their culture for centuries. Roman women powdered their hair with gold dust to convey wealth and decorated it with luxe accessories like gold hairnets and ivory pins. Marie Antoinette’s tall, ornate wigs indicated status and power (the term “bigwig” comes from 17th century England when wig size distinguished the upper class from the riffraff: Men of importance wore larger wigs and were called bigwigs”>.
MORE: How Healthy is Your Hair?
In the early 19th century, Flappers sported shorter, daring haircuts that defined them and made a powerful statement about their feelings on women’s liberation.
Lack of hair also makes a statement, most prominently in religious contexts. Think nun’s habits, burqas and wigs worn in some Orthodox Jewish denominations. These head coverings prevent the public from seeing women as objects of desire. The message is that hair is a powerful attraction tool, says Swami.
The Mating Game
Long before wigs, scarves or hair pins, there were cavemen and women. Many scientists believe that hair played a role in mate selection.
“Hair on the top of our heads evolved to pad and warm the scalp but that doesn’t account for why we are able to grow it so long,” says Nancy Etcoff, Ph.D., psychologist at Harvard Medical School and author of “Survival of the Prettiest: The Science of Beauty.”
Eyelashes prevent sun glare and brows help animate facial expressions and keep sweat out of the eyes, but a long mane serves no practical purpose. It might have acted as an advertisement of fertility. Younger, fertile women have thicker, shinier, healthier looking hair than older women and hair could tell a male instantly how likely you were to have children and if you had the stamina to care for them.
“Every strand of hair has a blood supply, and reflects what’s going on in the body,” says Etcoff. Being able to produce a lush head of hair can (and still does to this day”> indicate health and youth, just as having thinner graying hair signals aging. (Hair was an equal-opportunity fertility signal — it flagged healthy young males, too.”>
More: What’s Your (Hair”> Damage?
Although expert opinions differ, there is also a theory that blonde color evolved to attract mates: when early humans migrated from warm desert climates to northern areas, fertility cues like a curvy or muscular body shape were hidden under warm clothing, so it’s possible that blonde hair, which is typically seen only in younger women, became a way to get attention.
Most of this still holds true today. Thick, abundant manes do look youthful and healthy, but many a raven-haired beauty or romantic redhead would challenge the notion that blonde is the most attractive.
When Good Hair Goes Bad or Why Hair Can Sink Your Mood
Reasonably, if good hair can boost self-confidence, then when it misbehaves, it can have the opposite effect. A Yale study led by LaFrance and commissioned by Procter & Gamble found that when subjects recalled a bad hair day, their self-esteem dropped. Specifically, “bad hair” increased social insecurity and self-criticism and lowered performance self-esteem, hurting subjects’ can-do attitude toward personal accomplishments.
“We make choices every day about the kind of person we want to be, and we ask ourselves, do we look our best? Are we putting out there what we want people to see? The choices we make about how we look say something about our social identities and when the choices fit, that’s terrific, but when it doesn’t you feel out of sorts and that loss of control can derail your self-confidence,” LaFrance says. The stress is on par with spilling coffee on your blouse, she says. “It can make your mood sink like a stone, in the same way.”
More: The Science of Your Hair Type
While there’s no question that bad hair is, well, a bummer, it isn’t the end of the world. Research on appearance indicates that no one else is as focused on the snafu as you are.
“Although judgments are made quickly, they seem to be based on a number of variables,” says Swami, whose own research has shown that when others look at you, your hair, face and body are equally calculated with no single attribute standing out more than the other. Other studies support the notion that details like a rogue curl or bit of frizz seem to get by everyone else.
To prove this, in a study in the Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, researchers asked 44 college students to walk into a classroom of fellow students while wearing a t-shirt with either an embarrassing or flattering image. The students wearing the embarrassing shirts thought they stuck out like a sore thumb, but that actually wasn’t the case.
Once the subjects left, the majority of students in the room could not recall the image on their shirts. Researchers concluded that people overestimate how much others’ notice their appearance both positively and negatively and that the “social spotlight” doesn’t shine on us as much as we think.
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Final Thoughts
Remember all this on a rainy day when your bangs misbehave or if your locks are curlier or straighter than you’d like. In the larger picture, no one will notice.
What may have originated as a sign of fertility has evolved into a device for wider-reaching social messaging about who you are.
“Hair is the Swiss Army knife of beauty tools because it can convey so many things,” says Nancy Etcoff, Ph.D., psychologist at Harvard Medical School and author of “Survival of the Prettiest: The Science of Beauty.”
Here are a few ways your curly hair speaks volumes:
It Can Symbolize a Fresh Start
A flattering new cut and color offers a visual and mental do-over, which is why breakups and big birthdays are prime times for a chop.
“When you’re open to meeting someone new after a breakup, you want to project a new level of confidence like you haven’t ‘had’ to project during your relationship,” says Art Markman, Ph.D., a psychology professor at the University of Texas at Austin and YouBeauty Psychology Advisor.
MORE: How Healthy is Your Hair?
Similarly, reaching a major age-marker, like turning 40 or 50, are times when women often want to make a new statement about who they are.
Or Totally Reboot Your Life
Hairstylist and YouBeauty Hair Advisor Guido likens a big change to a journey.
“Every woman should chop her hair off once in her life, to try something totally new,” he says. It’s the sort of risky move that opens you up to changes and fulfillment in other parts of your life. “Even if you don’t like the initial results, as it grows back it will change and you might find a look that you would never have experienced,” he says.
Hair Attracts Similar Types
The hairstyle you choose can act like a homing device to other like-minded people.
MORE: The Psychology of Hair
“There’s a ‘birds of a feather effect’ with certain aspects of style that show our affiliation to a group,” says Etcoff. (Just look at the Real Housewives of Orange County…or the cast of Jersey Shore.”>
You Can Be a Chameleon
Hair’s versatility allows you to change it to reflect who you are at any given moment.
MORE: Tame Your Hair Troubles
“You can start with a ponytail for the pre-school drop off, switch to a looser brushed-out look for lunch with your best girlfriend, and then run a hot iron through your ends for a more provocative look before your partner comes home,” says Guido. He encourages women to play with their hair to find different ways to wear it. “Just changing your part from side to center can give you a different look that you can use to express what you feel,” he says.
Final Thoughts
“A powerful style that goes against the conventional norm like punk hair or getting a pixie is a way of saying ‘don’t mess with me,’ and that you’re in control,” says Guido.
With New York Fashion Week happening (and the European shows coming up soon”>, I’d like to help you make sense of the reality of the runway — particularly runway hair.
More importantly, how you can adapt runway styles for your own hair, because even just a small hair change can give you a great lift and help you feel good about yourself and your beauty.
I’ve done hair for fashion shows for many years, so I see firsthand the visions of what the designers are trying to portray. There are hundreds of fashion shows out there every season, and often the ones that get press are the more extreme and avant-garde. That’s when you get women saying, “Who are they kidding? I’m never going to wear my hair or makeup like that.” Those shows are pure fantasy — look at them for fun and for inspiration.
Runway Hairstyles Inspired by You
I do lots of shows, from avant-garde to more commercial, and I would say that about 65 percent of the hairstyles I do for runway shows could be worn by a lot of women. They can be adapted for everyone’s lifestyle.
What happens is, the term “fashion show” makes women shut down. It’s easy to get intimidated by the way fashion is presented with the model, the clothes, the lighting. You may see the model and think you’ll never look like that. Of course you won’t — no one really looks like that. The model only looks like that because she’s had experts working on her for three hours. Yes, she’s young and thin — but we’re talking about the hair. Anyone can have a version of runway hair.
MORE: How Healthy is Your Hair?
The thing that’s so great about runway hair is that it is often slightly imperfect. You see a lot of short, easy cuts, or quick knots. When the model’s hair catches the light, you can see stray ends and flyaways — it looks real.
TV Hairstyles Inspired by a False Reality
Compare that to TV. We’re bombarded by unrealistic, perfect hair: thick, glossy, slightly wavy hair. Not one flyaway (that’s impossible!”>. But maybe the women on TV with that hair aren’t as young as runway models, or not as edgy, and there is marketing behind them to make them seem more “real.” So that becomes the idea of the hair we are supposed to have.
MORE: The Best Haircut for Your Hair Type
I was watching TV recently and noticed one of the anchorwomen. Her hair was so glossed out, and there were so many products used in it. She did not have one flyaway. Because she is a more “real” woman than a model, I’m sure other women look at her and think, “I’d like my hair like that.” Reality check: That perfect hair you see on TV is very high-maintenance. It takes a lot of work and it’s very expensive to upkeep.
Imperfect Hairstyles are Always In
Designers love the idea of a mistake in the hair, because people make mistakes in their hair. They want their shows to look real since the point of the show is to sell clothing to women.
MORE: The Science of Fall 2011 Beauty Trends
You see slightly messy, imperfect hair on the runways — and it looks lovely and way better than TV hair.
So how do you make it work for you? What I think is great is that the shows are out there on the web, and you can quickly look at pictures to see what’s going on. Zero in on the hair, and if there is anything that catches your eye, think about how you can have fun with it.
Here are a few easy hair ideas from the runways:
- If you normally wear your hair in a ponytail, try wearing it down and part your hair on the side.
- If you wear your hair down every day, pull it up into a ponytail — nice and high if you have a strong jaw line.
- If you blow-dry straight every day, let your hair dry with its natural texture and use a few pins to work it into messy knot.
Playing with your hair is an inexpensive way to update your look — no need to go drop a ton of money on a new wardrobe.
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Get the runway look at home!
Final Thoughts
The term “fashion show” is what turns women off, and they make up their minds that they can’t look like that even before they’ve tried it. Let’s not do that — let’s try it. Some of the hairstyles will make you laugh, and you might find them ridiculous — that’s fine. But in the mix there will be something for you if you know how to look.
