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Curly to Straight Challenge
You’re probably well-versed in the perils of having too much salt in your diet. But what about in your beauty products? It seems that for every crop of creams, scrubs and lotions that proudly include the ingredient—along with promises to soothe, smooth and moisturize your skin—there’s an equally large selection that loudly proclaim their salt-free status. So is it a little salt in your beauty arsenal something to seek out or avoid? It all depends on what beauty issue you’re trying to address.
Salt in Your Hair: Pros and Cons
There’s no doubt that salt can dehydrate your hair. Just picture how your strands after a beach vacay—chances are, your hair feels a bit brittle and lackluster. “Ordinary sea salt—which is the same as the salt you have in your kitchen cupboard—is made up mostly of sodium chloride, and that can be drying,” explains Macrene Alexiades-Armenakas, M.D., Assistant Clinical Professor, Yale University School of Medicine.
QUIZ: Is Your Body Skin Healthy?
And yet, you’ll find sodium chloride listed on the ingredients label of many hair products, where it’s actually used to add thickness to the liquid. The amounts probably aren’t enough to do any serious harm. But if you have a curl-relaxing keratin treatment (also known as a Brazilian Blowout”>, you do need to carefully avoid using salt on your hair—it’ll break down the keratin and wreck the results of your treatment. Many natural hair care lines are already salt-free (like Alterna and Pureology”> and others have been created specifically for the keratin-treatment market (like Rusk Deepshine Smooth Keratin Care”>.
For the same reason it can dry out strands, salt can also be a fantastic treatment for oily scalp and dandruff. Julie Ebner, owner of JuJu Salon & Organics in Philadelphia, recommends completing this DIY salt treatment on your scalp weekly.
DIY Salt Treatment
- Mix a tablespoon of salt into a handful of shampoo
- Massage well into scalp
- Rinse thoroughly and follow with regular shampoo and conditioner.
“The salt will help absorb excess oil, unclog follicles stopped up with sebum and product gunk and reduce the inflammation associated with dandruff and psoriasis on the scalp,” explains Ebner.
Salt on Your Skin: Pros and ConsOrdinarily, sea salt can leach moisture out of your skin, just as it does from your hair. But it’s a wonderful exfoliant. “In its raw, crystal form, salt stimulates skin renewal and boosts radiance,” says Idit Gandelman, Global Head of Training at Ahava (a skincare company based on Dead Sea minerals”>. A handful of coarsely ground salt, mixed with a skin-nourishing oil can slough off dead skin cells, while the oil replenishes moisture.
MORE: Weather-Related Hair Emergencies—Solved
If you’re looking for salty skincare that’s also going to moisturize, search labels for products containing Dead Sea salts. “The Dead Sea has a much lower concentration of sodium chloride than normal sea water, and its salts contain a mix of other important minerals, including magnesium, potassium, calcium chloride and bromides,” says Ava Shamban, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at UCLA. “Using these salts on the skin replenishes minerals that are critical to our skin metabolism.” Mineral-dense Dead Sea salts are also unique in their ability to bring water into the skin—and hold it there—which is what you want if you’re combating fine lines and wrinkles. “The minerals activate an ‘osmotic pump,’ that attracts water and nutrients from the lower layers of the skin up to the outer skin layer, where moisture is needed most,” says Gandelman.
The minerals in salt are also anti-inflammatory, making it a good choice for soothing eczema, psoriasis and even acne. That’s what Alison Carton, founder of the salt-infused anti-acne line Clarisea, found while spending a summer at the beach. “I swam in the ocean every day and my stubborn acne finally started to clear up,” she remembers. So she started experimenting with salt mixtures, finally hitting on the combination mineral-rich Himalayan pink sea salt with sodium chloride-heavy Pacific Ocean salt to dry out her oily acne prone skin just enough and help clear away acne-causing bacteria. “The right percentage of each really cleared up acne without irritating my sensitive skin,” she says.
MORE: How To Do An At-Home Skin Peel
The bottom line: You’ve just got to know when to pass the salt…and when to just pass on it.
Put Some Salt in Your Bathroom Cupboard
Ahava Liquid Dead Sea Salt ($22.50″>: Spiked with an intense blend of concentrated minerals, this detoxifying lotion leaves skin feeling silky-smooth.
Clairsea Clarifying Salt Treatment ($19.50″>: Green-minded beauty addicts will love this 100% organic, pore-cleansing facial soak.
Bliss Hot Salt Scrub ($36″>: This luxurious, self-heating exfoliator gently sloughs off rough, scaly skin on knees, elbows and feet.
Maybe your hair has always been on the thin side. Or maybe it’s lost its fullness as you’ve gotten older. (Yes, hair ages, too. Sigh.”> Either way, there’s only so much that backcombing and volumizers can do. More and more, women are turning to hair supplements to give their roots a boost from the inside. Some experts recommend certain vitamins and targeted oral treatments supported by promising research and positive real-world results.
Can you really get gorgeous hair by popping a pill? We looked at five popular options to see what works and what may leave you—and your hair—flat.Supplements for Hair Growth
From styling treatments to straightening complexes and deep conditioners, it seems the great keratin tide has swept over every hair product category on the market today.
With the protein appearing in such a diverse range of items, it can be confusing to decipher what exactly it is that keratin does, and for which hair type it’s best suited. For instance, are keratin-branded hair care products just for those who have had keratin-containing treatments? And some consumers are even concerned about the ingredient’s safety, since it’s found in countless straightener formulas containing controversial actives, like formaldehyde, that can damage hair.
MORE: BB Cream For… Your Hair?
Experts say that you can relax: Keratin has been around for a long time, and its function is only one of protection. “Keratin reinforces your hair,” YouBeauty Cosmetic Chemistry Expert Ni’Kita Wilson. “It’s a protein that forms a film on hair strands, creating a scaffolding-like structure that’s suitable for all hair types,” she adds.
So whether fine, thick, normal or chemically-treated, your hair can benefit from the temporary barrier keratin creates between strands and your environment. It’s the other ingredients in the formula that determine whether or not a product will work best for you.
MORE: Get The Facts About Color-Safe Shampoo
At the drugstore, keratin is taking center stage in a spate of new launches. Pantene Advanced Keratin Repair Split End Fuser and 60 Second Therapy Ampoules (each $14.99″> are both highly concentrated treatments that focus on frayed strands and dryness. Tresemmé has incorporated the protein into its Keratin Smooth Shampoo, Smoothing Serum and Heat Protection Spray ($5-$10″> to specifically target damage-induced frizz for a sleeker finish.
In prestige boutiques, keratin is joining more elegant ingredients. AG Reconstruct Intense Anti-Breakage Mask ($24″> blends silk proteins and shea butter with keratin and panthenol to intensely hydrate hair in need of reconstruction. KeratinPerfect 30-Day Brazilian Hair Smoothing System Essentials Collection ($95″> houses two shampoos, a conditioner, smoothing treatments and a daily spray that fuses the protein to rough spots where natural keratin has been depleted for a faster blowdry and style. Meanwhile, Phyto has cleverly added hydrolyzed keratin to Phytovolume Actif Maximizing Volume Spray ($28″> for fine, limp hair to physically build girth and texture around strands.
QUIZ: How Healthy Does Your Hair Look?
Keratin is one trend that doesn’t seem to be fading anytime soon—but count this as one of the rare crazes that’s totally worth the hype.
Good old-fashioned H20 is one of your body’s most basic and vital needs. “It’s in our cells and in our blood and in all of the tissues in-between,” says Barbara Rolls, Ph.D., professor of Nutritional Sciences at Pennsylvania State University and a thirst expert.
Proper hydration helps our digestive system run smoothly, keeps our cells young and helps our immune system fight infection. So it would make sense that the more you guzzle, the healthier you’ll be, inside and out, right? Not exactly, says Rolls. “For most of us, fluid balance is not a problem.” In other words, you’re getting enough water already, sans that fancy water bottle glued to your hand. It’s time to get real about water—read on to get the facts, not fiction.
Define…Water
Experts stress that we need to broaden what we think of as water. “Many people think that the only way to hydrate is with plain drinking water, but that’s just not true,” says Keith Ayoob, R.D., associate clinical professor of pediatrics at Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York.
Currently, the National Institute of Medicine recommends that women get 2.7 liters (about nine cups”> of water per day. But the suggested sources go beyond glasses of clear water. All beverages, including water, as well as moisture in foods like fruit, vegetables, lean meat and soups count.
“When you think about it, both coffee and soup—even soda—are mostly water,” says Ayoob. “Any type of fluid goes toward your daily quota.”
8×8 Reality
But what about the 8 x 8 rule (drink eight glasses of eight ounces of plain water per day, on top of everything else”>? There’s no scientific evidence backing that recommendation.
A Dartmouth physiologist named Heinz Valtin conducted a comprehensive search for the origin of this widely repeated statement and published his findings in the American Journal of Physiology in 2002.
Not only did he conclude that there was no evidence to suggest that healthy adults needed to drink large amounts of water, but he also found a possible reason for the long purported myth: a misinterpreted National Resource Council suggestion from 1945.
The original text stated: “A suitable allowance of water for adults is 2.5 liters daily in most circumstances. An ordinary standard for diverse persons is one milliliter for each calorie of food. Most of this quantity is contained in prepared foods.”
He suggested that the last sentence was possibly ignored and the statement as a whole interpreted as you must drink eight glasses (2.5 liters”> of water each day.
Thirst ≠ Dehydration
Contrary to the popular myth, just because you’re thirsty doesn’t mean you’re already dehydrated. Dehydration occurs when the body loses more fluid than it takes in, but many people feel thirsty before they reach this deficit, says Rolls.
Two possible reasons for this disconnect: dry mouth and salty foods (more water is needed to dilute salt in the blood, so your thirst center sends an alert possibly causing you to feel thirsty”>. One small study followed young men around for a day, recording hydration markers in the blood and when they felt thirsty. Researchers found that the men felt thirsty before any actual fluid deficits occurred in their bodies.
Drinking Gallons of Water Won’t Hydrate Your Skin. At All.
The amount of water you drink plays zero role in your skin’s appearance, says Amy Wechsler, MD, and YouBeauty Dermatology Advisor. Although it sounds like an easy fix, it won’t help combat dry skin or clear up your acne. Bummer!
The liquid water you consume passes through you (via urine”> and has no effect on outward body surfaces. A report from the British Nutrition Foundation confirmed this myth as well, concluding that there was very little evidence connecting any amount of water consumption to skin appearance.
Eating Your Water May Be The Key to Long-Lasting Beauty…
Water-Packed All Stars
Dr. Murad notes these ten heavy hitters in “The Water Secret”
- Watermelon: 97% water
- Cucumbers: 97% water
- Tomatoes: 95% water
- Zucchini: 95% water
- Eggplant: 92% water
- Carrots: 88% water
- Peaches: 87% water
- Roasted chicken breast: 65% water
- Baked salmon: 62% water
Some foods, like watermelons and cucumbers, are more than 90 percent water. Howard Murad, M.D. and author of “The Water Secret” believes that these water-heavy foods play a very important role in keeping you young and vibrant.
“Over the years, our cells naturally lose water and deteriorate, making it hard for our bodies to protect against the free radical damage that leads to aging,” says Murad. So, how does he suggest you replenish your water tank for optimal wellness? Don’t run to refill your water bottle.
“Water-packed foods, like colorful fruits and vegetables, are also filled with nutrients, which help your body hold onto the water long enough to put it to good use.”
…And Weight Loss!
Water-rich foods are also the star of Dr. Rolls’ book, “The Volumetrics Weight Control Plan,” but under a weight loss lens. “Water is the magic ingredient,” she says. “When it’s bound into solid food, you can eat a much bigger portion for the same amount of calories.”
In one of Rolls’ studies, published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, participants who ate a chicken rice soup were more satiated and consumed fewer calories at a later meal than those who ate a chicken rice casserole with a separate glass of water.
Both meals contained the exact same ingredients; the only difference being the water placement. Another bonus benefit to eating more hydrating foods: Water hangs out in really healthy foods that many of us aren’t getting enough of, like lean proteins, high fiber foods and fish, says Rolls.
When You DO Need More Agua
Although you may be rethinking those constant trips to the water cooler with your BPA-free reusable bottle, rest assured, there are times you need to increase your intake.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, are visiting a higher altitude than you’re used to or exercising outside in hot temperatures, you’ll need to get more than the recommended amount of water in your system, says Kristin Kirkpatrick, MS, RD, wellness manager for the Cleveland Clinic’s Lifestyle 180 Program and YouBeauty Nutrition Advisor.
Also, the pressurized air in an airplane cabin consists of only 5 to 10 percent humidity (which can cause dry mouth and a scratchy throat”> so you should always accept a non-alcoholic offer from the drink cart to replenish your fluids, says Ayoob. Your best options are water, any clear soft drink (they typically don’t contain caffeine“> or club soda with a little cranberry juice.
Kirkpatrick points out that you don’t know how often the cart will come around, and those dinky little cups don’t hold enough water to replenish your fluids, so her airplane strategy is this: “The minute you get past security, buy an enormous bottle of water. Bring it onboard with you and take a sip every 15 to 20 minutes.”
Bottom line:
Water is an amazing substance and it’s seriously everywhere—in our bodies, beverages and foods. Just follow your thirst mechanism (don’t stress about forcing down pints of plain water each day!”> and up your water-rich food intake for optimal beauty and health.
Now that you know how much water to drink, find out how many calories you really need.
Goat’s Milk
Like many a smart working woman in Kingston, Jamaica, the hustling-bustling capital city, Michelle Yap-McKay pooh-poohed goats’ milk, dismissing it as a common beverage consumed only by the people living in the rural parts of the country where goats roamed free. Even if the grannies and aunties of the villages touted goats’ milk as an elixir for tight, glowing skin and overall good health, it was definitely not on Yap-McKay’s list.
But then one day, the rigors of the corporate world caught up with her.
“I was getting physically exhausted and sicker spiritually, and I didn’t know what to do,” she says. An herbalist recommended she drink goats’ milk, and very quickly, Yap-McKay realized her grandmother had always been right.
MORE: Nordic Secrets For Natural Beauty
“My skin was softer, clearer, like the layers of old skin had been peeled off and my baby skin was coming out,” she says. In addition to drinking it, Yap-McKay—who also credits goats’ milk for the improvement in her overall well-being—discovered that the fat in it contains high amounts of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA”>, in particular lactic acid, which sloughs off dead cells when applied topically, “in order to reveal absolutely new skin underneath and lighten and brighten the complexion.” Goats’ milk is also packed with vitamin A, which repairs damaged skin tissue, she says, and minerals such as selenium, which can guard against the effects of the sun.
Today, Yap-McKay is a self-confessed goats’ milk convert and the creator of Ital Blends, a brand of soaps and skincare products that seek to leverage the many benefits of goats’ milk and further enhance its properties by blending the milk with a range of different kinds of plants and herbs that are found in the cool Blue Mountains region of Jamaica where she now lives.
Tropical Plants
She is also one of a small but growing number of Caribbean beauticians, scientists and entrepreneurs who are pioneering a movement to bring back the many natural treasures that the region abounds with and shed light on the cornucopia of plants, leaves, fruits and flowers of the islands that, although a staple part of health and wellness in the past, have been overshadowed in the region’s recent history.
MORE: Three Must-Have Caribbean Beauty Brands
The islands of the Caribbean weren’t always the resort-laden, tourist havens that they are today. These islands have literally been built up from nothing, and for years, their residents just had to make do with whatever was around them. The list is long, and includes the likes of aloe, sorrel (a variant of the hibiscus flower”>, papaya, prickly pear cactus, licorice and castor oil seeds, to name a few. These and many others can be found throughout the Caribbean, and in the past were used as health, beauty and nutrition staples by generations of island residents simply because, like the sea that surrounds them, they were just there.
Through the years, poverty, economic duress and distance from the mainland have all posed multiple challenges to development in the Caribbean, but so too has the weather, in particular the blinding heat of the tropical sun. It’s almost a blessing that nature has been so bountiful and that plants like the miraculous aloe, whose leaves contain a gel that is simply bursting with nutrients, enzymes, vitamins, amino acids and minerals, and which calms and cools the skin and protects it against the sun, should abound in the Caribbean. The succulent inner layer of the aloe leaf, which Caribbean folk cut out and consume either as juice or as is, is also full of polysaccharides that help enhance the immune system by enabling cells to weed out the toxins and retain nutrients.
MORE: 7 Habits That’ll Give You Great Skin
Beauty Benefits
Generations of Caribbean men and women have also used aloe for smoothening out their hair. They have fashioned softening and hydrating face packs out of the papaya fruit, which contains, among other ingredients, lycopene (which protects the skin against UV damage”>, lutein and enzymes that soothe the skin, and used the leaves of the quaco-bush in lieu of soap for its cleansing properties and as a cure for the common cold.
Aching and sore feet have been relieved with Pepper Elder leaves, which have cooling properties similar to menthol, and the prickly pear cactus, a relative of aloe that contains a rare form of antioxidant known to lower blood sugar levels, has also been used to scrub out sand from between toes and fingers, since it contains lignin that when released, takes on a soap-like consistency.
Skin Lightening
But as much as bush medicine and natural health and beauty remedies played an important role in the Caribbean’s history, that same history has also shaped and conditioned beauty ideals. The historical inevitabilities of slavery and colonialism in particular have left their indelible mark on the region, so that today, the most coveted facet of beauty is, ironically, the least attainable: light skin.
MORE: The Best Natural Skincare Products
“The color and the fear of being darker than you are is something that I am sad to say I grew up with, and it is still a top concern in the Caribbean, but not so much from a health angle,” says Patrice Yursik, aka Afrobella, a widely known blogger (she’s on Ebony’s Power 100 list, alongside the likes of Jay-Z, Oprah and the Obamas”> who celebrates the natural beauty of black women. “I mean, it’s never presented as ‘you should stay out of the sun because you may get skin cancer,’ but ‘because you will get darker,’ so it’s all about skin bleaching instead of sunscreen.”
Indeed, the widespread usage of skin whitening creams is a huge problem on many islands, particularly Jamaica, where skin bleaching has reached such alarming levels that even the poor are spending fortunes they don’t have on commercial products that claim to lighten the skin, some of which may be loaded with noxious chemicals.
That aside, the prolonged usage of commercial skin lighteners and whitening creams is in and of itself dangerous and extremely detrimental to the skin in the long run, says Cheryl Bowles, a former chief chemist for Nestle and the founder of the Cher-Mere line of natural skincare and beauty. Dark skin produces melanin and this makes it naturally prone to dark spots and hyperpigmentation, she says, both of which become exacerbated by the usage of bleaching creams, particularly in a hot and sunny climate.
MORE: Surprising Causes of Hyperpigmentation
Like Yap-McKay, Bowles is also looking to bring more women and men in the Caribbean full circle back to where things began, by focusing her line of skincare products and soaps on the idea of overall well-being. Bowles, who now runs spas in her native Trinidad & Tobago and in Barbados, and who is looking to open outlets in Canada and the United States, is bringing her scientific knowledge and experience back home and works closely with the University of the West Indies to study the Caribbean’s many natural plants and flowers to lend scientific backing to traditional beliefs in their properties.
Take sorrel, for instance. The bright red flower is made into a juice that’s drunk at Christmas time throughout the Caribbean, “but our studies have shown us that it is packed with antioxidants and with vitamin C and E that are vital for good skin, so even if our grandmothers did not have the scientific rationale, they knew from intuition and a sense of nature,” she says. Bowles is also studying the properties of bois-bande, a tree species from St. Lucia whose bark was traditionally consumed for its aphrodisiacal properties, but also has very strong astringent properties (she’s integrated it into a line of aftershaves for men”>; and licorice, which contains glabridin, an element that suppresses the formation of melanin and therefore lends itself well to the skin lightening many Caribbean women desire.
Thanks to product lines like Cher-Mere, a new generation in the Caribbean is slowly but surely coming back to their roots, Yursik says. But the benefits of the herbs and plants of the region are universal, since the power of nature always transcends boundaries.
We hear it daily here at NaturallyCurly: the number one reason women love their curls is hands down the versatility. The option to wear our curls tight or loose, in an afro or a twist out, curly or straight. Yes we said straight. If your heart so desires, we support the decision to wear your hair straight too, just make sure you are choosing a method that is safe for you and your strands.
Chemical hair straightening treatments, such as the Japanese (which permanently straightens”> and Brazilian (which eradicates frizz and loosens curls for up to six months”> treatments, haven taken a lot of heat because they rely on ingredients such as sodium hydroxide (called lye”>—a corrosive active ingredient also found in many household detergents—and formaldehyde. The former rearranges the DNA makeup and pH levels of natural kinks while the latter helps bind keratin (a naturally-occurring protein”> to hair. Both have been linked to cancer and lung damage. And, over the long run, continually relaxing hair with these methods can even lead to alopecia, a condition in which hair follicles become damaged beyond repair and fall out, never to grow back.
“Disulfide bonds are the strongest bonds in hair,” says Melissa Harvey, a New York-based consulting trichologist (hair scientist”> with hair growth company Bio Follicle. “They can only be broken by a radical chemical swell.”
MORE: Formaldehyde-Free Straightening Treatments
Since the U.S. Department of Labor’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA”> issued a hazard warning in 2011 for salon employees and owners performing these types of straightening treatments, product manufacturers have raced back to their labs in search of newer, healthier straightening formulas. Zerran RealLisse uses a completely edible—yes, edible!—combination of wheat, corn and oat proteins to smooth hair for two to four months. Though the professional system is used in high-end salons including the Fred Segal Salon in Santa Monica, C.A, the company has also created a line of shampoos and conditioners with similar ingredients to help clients maintain their straight strands right at home. Farouk Systems’ Chi Enviro American Smoothing Treatment is another pro-straightening alternative that propels proven strengthening ingredients including amino acids, proteins, silk fibers and pearl into the hair’s cuticle to rearrange unruly hair strands for as long as four months. And the Anevolve Control Zero Straightening System, which grows out after one to four months, relies on sodium sulfite (a food-grade preservative”> instead of formaldehyde to break down the natural bonds in curls.
What is a BB Cream?
Just when you thought the BB cream craze had reached its height, the popular flaw-blurring technology has now jumped the aisle into hair care. But what does that mean for your strands?
By combining treatment and styling ingredients together in one product in the same way that facial BB creams combine skincare with makeup, you can tackle hair health and texture quickly, thanks to bottles packed with multiple benefits.
“It’s similar to what stylists term ‘cocktailing’ different products together in order to apply one customized balm,” says San Diego stylist and salon owner Jet Rhys. However, some of the more sophisticated ingredients in these new high-tech balms are now coming straight from skincare.
MORE: BB Cream—The Skincare Product That Does It All
BB Cream Products
Products to Try
- KeratinPerfect Hair BB 3-in-1 Multi Action Hair Beauty Balm
- Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Blonde Beauty Balm
- Pantene Ultimate 10 BB Crème
- It’s a 10 Miracle Silk Smoothing Balm
KeratinPerfect Hair BB 3-in-1 Multi Action Hair Beauty Balm ($28″> contains apple stem cell extract to fight hair aging; nano-keratin proteins to strengthen; and oils of argan, apricot kernel and almond to moisturize and add gloss. Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Blonde Beauty Balm ($28″> uses vitamin C, lemon, chamomile and honey to hydrate and add body, shine and brilliance to buttery hair colors. The line’s proprietary caviar extract infuses Omega-3 fatty acids into hair to boost elasticity. No word yet on a brunette or redhead version.
Other products are claiming a grand-slam list of benefits, of which 10 seems to be the magic number.
Pantene says when creating the Ultimate 10 BB Crème ($5″>, the company “looked to the skincare benefits of the BB cream and optimized the right level of ingredients for a product that not only feels good on the hair, but also delivers a flawless finish.” Try this balm for repair, heat protection, frizz control, shine, softening and fly-away-taming benefits, among others.
MORE: Are CC Creams Actually Different From BB Creams?
And It’s A 10 Hair Care just introduced the leave-in Miracle Silk Smoothing Balm ($20″>, which claims 10 benefits including straightening, cutting down on drying time, detangling, prolonging your blowout and weightless hair hold, all in one fell swoop.
Some may say the BB hair creams are just marketing jazz, but we’re all for anything that saves time, money and space on our ever-crowded bathroom counter.
Now, when we see CC Cream for hair, that’s when we’ll actually fall out of our chairs.Any woman who colors her hair knows that it often feels like a full-time job.
Whether you’re adding highlights in your 20s or channeling your inner red head in your 30s, the every-six-week appointments needed for hair color maintenance are a serious responsibility, and cost a pretty penny to boot.
Things get even trickier as your hair starts to gray—which happens sooner for some than others. Silver strands can take hold anywhere from our 20s to our 60s—and your chance of going gray increases 10-20 percent every decade after 30 years, according to the Library of Congress.
If you choose to continue coloring, you’ll probably find that you have to hit the salon or the drug store even more often to keep ahead of those grays.
Embracing Natural Color
While color is always an option, we love seeing women who embrace their naturally graying hair. It’s a movement that’s gained traction over that past few years, as more high profile women are embracing their silver streaks. Think: Helen Mirren, Jamie Lee Curtis, Meryl Streep (in “The Devil Wears Prada””> and Blythe Danner.
The only problem with embracing your gorgeous grays? The process of getting there—growing out your hair color from partially gray to totally gray. As your hair grows out and changes color, you’ll be confronted with two-tone hair that’s half gray, half colored.
MORE: The Science Behind Going Gray
We asked celebrity hair colorist Rita Hazan—she of Jennifer Lopez and Katy Perry fame—for some advice about how to make the transition easier, and, uh, more attractive.
Good news: Hazan says avoiding two-tone hair is tough, but not impossible. “There’s a technique I use which is helpful: Stop coloring everything else besides the hairline and the part. It will take a long time for the back to grow out and when you start growing out the top, use my Root Concealer to blend in your color.” You can ask your colorist to try this same technique and apply it at home if you do your own color.
Try a Glaze
Gray strands also change your overall hair texture—it typically becomes coarser. Combat this with heavier conditioning products, and add an anti-frizz serum to your routine. Gray is also prone to yellowing or brassiness. Try a DIY hair gloss like Rita Hazan Foaming Gloss or Frederic Fekkai Salon Glaze, or ask your colorist for an in-salon gloss to combat it.
Hazan also suggests getting a chic haircut and wearing enough makeup to compensate for the lack of color in your hair. “This way you won’t look washed out, but chic and youthful.”
Just think of the money (and time!”> you’ll save.
We highly recommend using it on a sexy beach vacation—just remember to pack a hat!
Ammonia in Hair Color
Professional, permanent coloring products and their DIY counterparts often rely on ammonia, a noxious chemical compound that opens the hair cuticle so that the new, desired shade can penetrate thoroughly. While effective, its harsh nature sometimes causes irritation and a burning sensation that makes a color appointment seem like torture to some. But even if you’re not prone to allergic reactions, the tinting process is still a major cause of dull, frizzy strands. “Ammonia can weaken hair and make it dull by stripping the outer layer of each shaft,” says Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D, a Washington, D.C., dermatologist.
To soften the blow, L’Oréal Professionnel debuted INOA (which stands for Innovation No Ammonia”> in 2011. It was a game-changing alternative to traditional coloring products, thanks to its use of an odorless chemical, monoethanolamine (or MEA”>, to open the hair shaft. While groundbreaking, the gentler version had certain limitations—being able to darken strands only one shade, not to lighten or conceal grays. Since then, L’Oréal chemists have discovered a way to boost the efficacy of MEA, giving ammonia-averse consumers more options and a wider color palette. This new technology, appearing for the first time in an at-home color, is in Garnier (which is owned by L’Oréal”> Olia at-home color line. It incorporates MEA and an oil gel (dubbed Oleogel”> that coats and conditions the outer layer of hair strands to preserve strength.
MORE: A Healthier Way to Highlight
Monoethanolamine (MEA”>
According to the company, Olia—which includes 24 shades and is infused with fragrant, flower-based oils—can lift color up to three levels. “It’s an exciting option that delivers softer, shinier, healthier-looking hair,” says Kyle White, a New York-based celebrity colorist with Garnier who has used the line on his clients. “Think of it this way: If ammonia is sugar, MEA is Stevia.”
In addition to ammonia, some companies have also eliminated PPD (also known as PTD”>—petroleum-derived dyes commonly used in hair color pigments that can cause severe allergic reactions—from their formulas. Instead, they use plant- or vegetable-based versions to tint hair. Though less effective (the pigment, more like a rinse, lasts only six or seven shampoos, as opposed to four to six weeks with a semi-permanent dye”>, they are a health-conscious option for men and women simply looking to mask grays. Aubrey Organics Color Me Natural is one such brand that conceals silvery roots on dark brown strands. Lush Henna Hair Dyes come in four shades to gently cover grays sprouting on redheads and brunettes while conditioning and imparting shine. “Plant-based dyes are healthier for the hair,” says Melissa Harvey, a New York-based consulting trichologist (hair scientist”> with hair growth company Bio Follicle. “But since they go deeper into the cuticle with each application, it does make it difficult for anyone looking to go lighter.”
If you’re new to the no ‘poo haircare method, or you just don’t have time to wash, condition, deep condition, and leave-in condition your hair, then you might be looking for a boost of encouragement to get you through the day. “Much like Little House on the Prairie, Sunday night is hair washing night,” YouBeauty senior editor, Courtney Dunlop, recently bemoaned on Twitter.
MORE: All About the No Shampoo Method
It’s a sentiment that’s spawned a burgeoning industry of dry shampoo, named for the product’s seemingly miraculous ability to refresh hair without the need for water. Harried women everywhere are rejoicing, as more skip their daily sudsing ritual in favor of more sleep, more free time, more sanity and in our case, healthier curls.“Dry shampoo beats the old-time trick of using baby powder because aerosols and nozzles better direct application,” says San Diego celebrity stylist and salon owner, Jet Rhys.
QUIZ: How Healthy Is Your Hair, Really?
Options range the gamut with budget versions that include oil-absorbing particles and basic scents while pricier picks employ micronized powders for greater volume and extras like tea tree oil to prevent dandruff. Higher end options also offer elegant fragrance blends that mimic shampoo-fresh hair, adds Rhys.
To apply dry shampoo, bend forward and work in sections holding the spray several inches from hair and directing the nozzle towards the scalp. Next massage roots with fingertips to build volume and to spread the formula through strands, instructs Rhys.
However you use it, dry shampoo is one of those hero products that you’ll likely wonder how you ever did without. Check out the best picks of the crop in the gallery.
Top Dry Shampoos
You have begged, you have pleaded, wondered what kind of voodoo magic Demi Moore is up to and finally, given up. But there’s no question that countless middle-aged women share the same lament: “Why—really, why?—won’t my hair grow any faster? And is it just me, or does it seem to get slower each year?”
Long Hair in Hollywood
In a world of Blake Livelys and Giseles (not to mention plenty of more mature leading ladies”>, it can seem like everyone is sporting insanely long locks. But keep in mind two things. One, natural, mid-back hair growth is not as common as Hollywood would have you think. While there’s no statistic measuring the overall population’s varying hair lengths, consider a Los Angeles hair expert’s very educated guess. “Oh please, it’s so rare! So many women have extensions. It’s very, very unusual to see naturally long hair. I’d roughly estimate it’s not even 10 percent of women,” says Christophe Belkacemi, a top stylist at the Serge Normant at John Frieda salon in LA.
Growth Stages
Second, the hair’s anagen phase (aka the growth stage that is crucial to achieving great lengths”> is, like everything else in the world of beauty, seemingly wasted on the young. A P&G (makers of such hair care as Pantene and Herbal Essences”> report on the hair growth cycle found the following: “As people grow older, the period of anagen shortens. For example, the hair of someone with a five-year anagen can grow to a length of 60 centimeters before it enters the shedding phase. If their anagen period drops to three years as they age, their hair will then grow only to shoulder length before it falls out or is brushed out.” Not exactly Demi territory.
MORE: The Science of Hair Growth
There’s another new, semi-depressing finding on the correlation between hair growth and aging. Biologically, researchers are finding that hair simply changes. Another in-depth study executed by P&G found that sebum (oil”> production overall but here, specifically on the scalp, decreases rapidly starting at age 45. When hair becomes less able to keep itself hydrated, it can become coarser-looking and more susceptible to breakage. Again, not exactly conducive to growth.
Care & Growth
And that leads us to the TLC factor. In the latter study, a few findings help explain why at some point, hair basically just kind of gives up in protest. First off, the actual diameter of individual hair strands lessens, which simply means your hair may look skimpier—hardly adding to the illusion of long, cascading locks. Additionally, consider a recent Unilever North America study, which spouted the following statistic: Long hair (that is 24 centimeters long, to be exact”>, will have 19,122 split ends. Lack of conditioning and breakage from brushing means your hair won’t stand a chance when it comes to length. Talk about growing pains.
Then again, the difference between you and some of the red carpet’s finest could simply be a change in your regimen. Heat styling addicts take note: Step away from the hair dryer. The less you damage strands with high temps (heat weakens cuticles”>, the more you encourage the growth of long hair—healthier tresses more easily withstand breakage. Additionally, with a slew of new heat protectant lines now on the market—Tresemmé makes a new affordable line called Platinum Strength, which contains conditioning agents meant to mimic the natural lubrication strands lose with age—even flat iron junkies have no excuse to not pre-treat hair before turning up the heat. “Any kind of nourishing base will help protect your hair,” says Belkacemi. “I recommend doing a deep conditioning mask (Serge Normant’s Meta Velour is good”> once every 10 days. You would do a mask for your face, so why not your hair?” Think of it as applying moisturizer or primer before you apply your makeup. It should be that basic.
MORE: Thinking About Bangs? Get The Perfect Fringe For Your Face
Curls More Susceptible
And curly girls take note, too, because P&G research finds your hair is even more susceptible to damage. Make sure to incorporate hyper-moisturizing conditioning products into your daily routine, and pop biotin pills, which may help fortify strands.
Of course, at the end of the day, it might be unavoidable. You may have done all you can, yet it still stands that nothing is happening past your shoulders. While extensions may start to look enticing, think twice. Besides the astronomical cost, they tend to exacerbate the problem. Says Belkacemi, “Extensions at least give you a youthful feeling, psychologically. But they are also counterproductive because they pull on the scalp and can cause thinning and breakage.”
An even simpler, cheaper and infinitely cooler solution? You can still create the illusion of length with a great cut and the right texture. Belkacemi says an all-one-length, blunt and straight style will appear longest, as opposed to layers, which chop up the silhouette and draw the eye up. And if you happen to be blessed with the ultra long hair you grew out in your youth, don’t forget to take a closer look. While we could care less about those old-fashioned notions that say women of a certain age should wear shorter styles (and we hope you feel the same way!”>, there’s no denying that when you’re dealing with majorly frayed ends thanks to years of abuse and an increased frizz factor—yes, hair also gets frizzier with age—it may mean you’d be better off with a chic, “long” bob. It’s better to rock a style that looks healthy than just long. Demi be damned: You want your lengths, no matter what the measurement, to be great.
Hairspray: It’s a word that conjures up so many images—most of them outdated.
Consider gravity-defying styles like the beehive, pompadour, über-teased bangs, and big 80’s hair; all impossible without this sticky aerosol fixative. Hairsprays of the past did the job of holding hair in its place—perhaps too well—making these spritzes synonymous with helmet head, hard-to-wash-out lacquers, a crunchy, gummy texture and alcohol-based formulas.
But those days are over. There are so many tricks today’s hairsprays can do—from hold to height and humidity protection—that this ‘80s staple is back in rotation.
Is hairspray back?
Hair freaking out once the temperatures drop? Achieve a balance with insight from a skincare expert. (You heard right”>.
Winter Hair Tips
“Every strand of hair has a blood supply, and reflects what’s going on in the body,” says Nancy Etcoff, Ph.D., psychologist at Harvard Medical School and author of “Survival of the Prettiest: The Science of Beauty.”
Textured hair looks naturally thicker and more voluminous, which we subconsciously take to mean that the wearer has a more robust supply of nutrients, making her more sexually attractive. Just one more reason waves, curls and coils are a hot commodity!Hollywood is getting in on the extra-sexy volume with something we like to call mermaid waves. “It’s like mermaids are the new vampires!” says celebrity stylist Larry Sims, who tends to the locks of Eva Longoria and Kerry Washington. “Mermaid waves differ from beach waves in that they’re more polished and glamorous, with a distinct Hollywood feel,” he adds.
Jessica Chastain and Jennifer Lawrence just rocked them at the SAG Awards, models at the Monique Lhuillier and Moschino Spring 2013 Fashion Week shows bounded down in the catwalk in them, and Amanda Seyfried can’t get enough of them.
MORE: The Psychology of Hair
If you want to get in on the action, the good news is that you can achieve mermaid waves with or without heat. Hydrated strands are essential, so use your favorite deep conditioner in the shower, or leave-in treatment once you get out. Then apply a waving spray to microfiber towel-dried strands (we like göt2be Beach Trippin’ Salt Infusion Waving Spray, $5.99 at drugstores in February.”>
Blow-dry hair if you’d like to use heat. Then wrap small inch-wide sections around a conical curler, gently finger combing through the sections once finished to soften the style, advises Sims. Or as a natural alternative, divide hair into at least two sections and braid each one. Allow the braids to air-dry, ideally overnight. Then take out your braids, gently finger comb, and show off your slamming new waves.
MORE: Haircuts for Wavy Hair
Michelle Obama stepped out last week sporting sassy new bangs — the type of news that makes the beauty world squeal with delight.
Bangs are hot, hot, hot right now, and we love to see FLOTUS making a beauty trend her own. Bangs are young and fun, and Michelle (can we call you Michelle?”>, in her typical, stylish way, shows that they work just as well on the over-40 set as they do on twentysomethings.
The key to bangs is making them work for your face shape and hair type. Michelle has the most universal face shape (oval”> so most bang types will look good on her, but she has a high forehead, so she chose wisely in going with longer fringe to soften the upper part of her face.
“Michelle Obama’s new bang is texturized, which gives a softer, piecey edge to the normal blunt style,” explains George Gonzalez of George the Salon in Chicago. “To achieve the look, ask your stylist to chip in with the tips of their shears followed by using texturizing scissors to soften the initial cut to finish.”
As for her hair type, we all know bangs on textured hair isn’t for the faint of heart. Unfortunately this look is not in the best interest of your curls coils and waves as it’ll take daily heat styling and regular trims to maintain it — but we’re pretty sure FLOTUS has people for that!
Scientist Rolanda Johnson Wilkerson, Ph.D., a hair and skin researcher at Procter & Gamble, explains hair growth and answers question on all of our minds: “Why can’t I grow my hair long?”