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Fourteen minutes is all it took to evoke emotion from a situation many curlies have often found themselves in after doing the big chop.
A 2016 short film written by Alisha Cowan and directed by Derek D. Dow, The Big Chop follows the journey of a 10-year-old girl who once has a great love for her afro then gets a relaxer when negative comments by her mother and constant teasing by her peers gets the best of her.
Soon after entering their film into the American Black Film Festival, Alisha and Derek were chosen to have their work shown on HBO. The two chatted with NaturallyCurly on the concept behind the film and their spotlight on HBO.
NaturallyCurly: Where did this idea for the Big chop come from?
Alisha:
I had been toying around with the idea for at least maybe two years. I’d been wanting to write [The Big Chop], but I had never really dabbled into short film. My path was TV writing for comedies, but Derek… moved out here [to Chicago] and I said, “You’re a director, and I’m a writer,” so thought we should do something together.
“It’s 100 percent based off my story, but I also think it’s based off of a lot of women’s stories.”
In particular, I transitioned for a year and thought I was ready to cut it off, and I did it on a whelm one night. It wasn’t midnight, but it was late. I was standing in the mirror and I just cut it off. What resulted after was not what I expected at all. I didn’t have as much hair as I thought and I all of a sudden became clueless on how to take care of it. When I cut it off, it was a whole new life.
“I didn’t get a perm until I was about 13, and it was because I wanted it. I’ve always equated my hair with pain because my mom didn’t know what she was doing with it.”
I wanted to show the transition of having the fro when you’re a child and some situations you might be put in, and then wanting to go back to that when you’re an adult.
NC: You talked about the film showcasing a girl’s journey to adulthood, but what role do you think children play in the natural hair movement?
Alisha:
I think it’s changing for me. I turned 30 in May, but when I was growing up, Just For Me was all I saw. To go from that… and for little girls to know it’s OK to embrace their hair, is a totally different world for the better. I think parents are more educated now, as well.
NC: Since doing the big chop comes with a range of emotions, what was the process like of directing a story such as this one?
Derek:
The source material was so good. I personally could relate to it because my story was more in reverse order. I grew up as a black boy who was told his hair was nappy and ugly, so my mom would keep me bald because she didn’t know what to do with it. On the other side, boys deal with, “did you brush your hair?” Now, I have fairly long locs, so for me it was finding the truth in each scene and what it feels like. When a scene took place, it was like I was living in that scene.
With the children (actors”>, it was more of helping them with the pace. I wanted to make sure they didn’t say lines how their parents told them to say them, but how I needed them to say them.
NC: How long did it take you to develop the concept from start to finish?
Alisha: The idea came about and then we were like, ‘we don’t have any money,’ so we came up with the idea to crowdfund. That was a process within its self – I’d never done it. We gave people about a month to give us money for the project.
Derek: We shot it, and shooting it only took three days. We missed the first deadline for the American Black Film Fest, and then life happened. We needed $13,000 to do the film, but we only raised $5,000. I started changing some of my shots, scenes and we shrunk the camera package. We spent the $5,000 on production, and we still needed money for post production, which took another month the complete between the edits and the sound design. We literally turned it in to ABFF an hour before it was due.
You mentioned how you had difficulty meeting your crowdfunding goal. What type of challenges did you face for this film, considering we’re living in a time where curly hair is so popular?
Derek: It did make me think like, ‘we only got $5,000.’ I even personally contacted natural hair people and got cold shoulders left and right. I don’t know if it was because I was a guy or what, but that made us want to make the film even more. It wasn’t about their support, it was about getting the message out and making people feel like what they do through matters.
So you submitted to the ABFF – what was the result?
Alisha: Their short film competition is sponsored by HBO and they chose five films out of thousands. They fly out the winners to Miami, screen the films for an audience and then they vote on a winner. There was a cash prize but if filmmakers agree to, they can allow HBO to license it. No one really declines that, so we were on HBO. It was pretty cool — it was one of my ultimate goals when I was writing it, so I was super excited when we got in.
Both of you mentioned your curls — what’s your hair routine like?
Alisha: I don’t really think about it. You know at first you’re obsessed with everything — and I’m still obsessed with natural hair in general — but as far as my hair, I don’t care anymore. I wash it once a week and I usually do a wash and go. I use DevaCurl and then I go about my week.
Derek: I’ve had my locs for a little over 10 years and they’re pretty easy to maintain. When I do wash them, I do an apple cider vinegar rinse and then use light to no oil. I had been told my hair was so ugly growing up, but now people can’t wait to tell me how nice it is.
You can watch the Big Chop here and learn more about Alisha Cowan and Derek D. Dow on Instagram.
If you’ve ever washed a dish and later noticed a white residue on your glass, chances are you live in an area with hard water.
While many of us may not think twice about the type of water we use on wash day, quality matters when you want to maintain healthy curls.
If you think of your hair as the once sparkling glass, picture the unseen film resting on your strands. It’s not a pretty sight once frizz is introduced and can cause you more difficulty in the long run.
Hard water is the high concentration of dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water, according to the U.S. Geological Survey. While the presence of minerals in the water is beneficial to health, depending on the hardness of your water, your hair can experience harsh effects.
You may have noticed an abrupt change in how your curls behave if you moved to a new area.
Levels of hardness in water vary, according to the U.S. Geological Survey. Check yours here.
In hard water conditions, your shampoo and other hair products react with the calcium in the water, leaving behind a film and mineral buildup.
Ultimately, hard water can cause frizz, detangling issues, dry hair and scalp and change the overall appearance of your curls — and we don’t want that. If you find yourself in an area with hard water, here are some steps to take to increase the quality of your water.
1. Test the quality of your water
Several companies offer water tests to find out if your home faucets distributes hard water. A clear sign is to take a look at your shower heads, faucets and toilet bowls. If they have residue stains, you most likely live with hard water. If you’re more of the DIYer, add 10 drops of dish soap to a cup of water. If it turns milky white, you have hard water.
2. Ditch hard water for good
Companies that offer water tests can also install water softeners, which changes the amount of minerals in the water using beads and salts to act as filters. You can expect to pay between $1,000 to $2,000 for a home system. A water filtering shower head can also be installed for much less. If you’re strapped for cash, or don’t believe a softener is needed, there are other less expensive options available.
In my time as a curly girl, I’ve heard about people using distilled water during the washing process. While that is an option, you have to admit, that’s a lot of gallons of water.
One of the easiest and quickest alternative involves experimenting with different hair products. Just as all water is not equal, we curly girls know products aren’t, either.
Those with hard water should try clarifying and pH balanced shampoos made for hard water environments. Look for products with the main ingredient Ethylenediamine Tetraacetic Acid, or EDTA – which helps break down minerals causing hard water.
Although these types of cleansers are great at stripping your curls of buildup, they can also have a drying effect. Try incorporating them into your hair regimen at least once a month.
Here are a few shampoos to check out:
- Ouidad Water Works Clarifying Shampoo, $18, uses a blend of lemon, grapefruit, and orange flower extracts to breakdown buildup without stripping the hair of natural oils.
- DevaCurl Buildup Buster Micellar Water Cleansing Serum, $28, attracts dirt and buildup like a magnet and uses Abyssinica seed oil and jojoba to deliver moisture.
- Jane Carter Solution Healthy Hair Renewable Difference Detox Shampoo, $11, is a color-safe shampoo that helps hair thrive in hard water environments by using glycolic fruit extracts of sugar maple, orange and lemon.
What’s the water like in your city?
Help a fellow curly girl out. Let us know in the comments below!
Whether you want that recent short haircut to become long curls again, or you are simply committed to growing your hair, believe it or not, you can boost your hair’s growth at home without products.
There are endless DIY hair growth remedies out there but because you deserve the best, I’ve narrowed them down for you. Here are 5 hair growth remedies you need in your life.
Caffeine
A trusty remedy involves the usage of caffeine. If your mind automatically thought of coffee – you’re wrong. Several teas contain caffeine that can be used as rinses to promote hair growth by increasing blood flow.
Green tea can be used to help you meet your hair growth goals. Simply fill a large container or mug with two bags of organic green tea, pour boiling water over the bags and let seep for 10-20 minutes. Once cooled, pour the tea over your head after your regular shampoo, condition, and detangling session. Do not rinse! Learn more on the benefits of tea for hair.
Black Seed Oil
A remedy you may not have heard of contains black seed oil, also called black cumin and fennel flower, among other names. The oil acts as an anti-inflammatory and can possibly help in regrowing thinning areas on your scalp.
Hair growth boosting tip:
Massage 1 part black seed oil with 2 parts olive oil into your bald patches to encourage hair growth. Rinse out afterward with a cleansing conditioner. Get the recipe for regrowing hair using black seed oil.
Cinnamon
It’s not just made for enhancing your pumpkin-spiced lattes and baked goods, but can be great for growing curly hair. Since cinnamon is great at exfoliating the scalp, it can get rid of product buildup, which can clear the airways for growth.
Ready to give it a go? Mix 2 tablespoons of honey with 2 Teaspoons of cinnamon. Add Olive oil to desired consistency. Leave on hair for 15 minutes and shampoo as normal. More on benefits of cinnamon for hair.
Tomatoes
Making fresh spaghetti sauce? Save some of those tomatoes for your hair.
Adding tomatoes to your hair regimen can add natural shine and help balance your strand’s pH levels – all of the ingredients needed for healthy hair growth. Learn how to use tomatoes for your hair.
Jamaican Black Castor Oil
A classic method for growing curly hair is by scalp massaging with Jamaican black castor oil (JBCO”>.
When using this magical oil, as some refer to it as, you’ll want to apply small amounts to your hair and scalp daily and massage with your fingertips. You may also use it as a weekly hot oil treatment. Read more on other ways to use Jamaican black castor oil.
For the DIY challenged…
If DIY recipes don’t pique your interest or if you’re on a time crunch, there are plenty of products on the market aimed at growing healthy curls – the challenge is finding quality ingredients.
Here are five products you’ll find in stores that help promote hair growth:
- Curls Blueberry Bliss Hair Growth Oil contains blueberries filled with antioxidants and Vitamins A, B5, C, and E. Shop at SHOPNaturallyCurly, Target, and Walmart.
- SheaMoisture Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque is infused with ingredients like Shea butter and Jamaican Black Castor Oil. Shop at SHOPNaturallyCurly, Target, Walgreens, Kroger, Walmart and CVS.
- Honey Baby Naturals Honey Shea Butter Hair Smoothie has a main ingredient of honey, known as a natural humectant for moisturizing hair with a blend of Shea butter and biotin. Shop at SHOPNaturallyCurly, Target and Meijer.
- Aunt Jackie’s Curls & Coils Flaxseed Recipes Purify Me Moisturizing Co-Wash Cleanser is made with flaxseed, an excellent source of Omega fatty acids known for preventing shedding and promoting healthy hair growth. Shop at SHOPNaturallyCurly, Family Dollar, Walmart and Kroger.
- Alikay Naturals Lemongrass Leave In Conditioner is created with lemongrass, known for strengthening hair follicles. Shop at SHOPNaturallyCurly and Target.
Do you have a DIY hair recipe to share?
Let us know in the comments!
For more tips and inspiration, follow us on Facebook and Instagram.
Here’s an easy way to get your hair out of your face while in the heat and at the same time, give it a break from all the manipulation. #protectivestyles
Of course, protective styles can be worn any time of the year, but during the summer months is when the curly hair community really gets creative. While I am not a huge fan of styles that involve hair extensions for several reasons — unless they are installed the correct way — I love to mini-twist my own hair.
Mini-twists give you the same benefits you would get from any other protective style — you can simply put your hair away without constantly worrying about it. I also love that they can be worn on almost any length of hair and still look stylish no matter which way you wear them.
Are you in the mood for summertime mini-twists?
Here are some key things to keep in mind when creating your simple mini-twists routine:
- Although you will want your mini-twists to last, avoid installing them too tightly; your scalp and hair will thank you later.
- You may want to consider installing your twists in four sections. By dividing up your work, you’re less likely to lose your mind when it seems like the installation process is taking forever.
- Be sure to deep condition your hair beforehand. You will most likely keep your twists in for weeks at a time, so you will want to give your natural hair some love.
Here is a simple tutorial on installing your own mini-twists:
How to keep your mini-twists looking fresh?
Just because you don’t have to style your hair each day doesn’t mean you should neglect your curls. Spray a light leave in-conditioner or moisturizer at least a few times a week.
One of the main ways you can keep your twists looking fresh is to tie them down with a scarf at night.
Keep track of how long your twists have been installed – you don’t want to keep them in too long where they begin to loc (unless that’s your goal”>. I recommend no more than a month, then follow up with a deep conditioner.
You can see more on how to maintain and stretch your twists below:
What summer style is your go-to for getting your hair out of your face and giving your coils a break?
I have more type 4 natural hair advice on my blog, Classy Curlies.
Dear coily girl,
You are beautiful. You are magical. Your hair texture is golden and your spirit is free. These are all of the things women with coily, kinky, and curly hair would love to hear. Instead, society throws different words and phrases into our view by calling our hair, ‘nappy,’ ‘crazy,’ ‘wild,’ or ‘unacceptable.’
As a dark-skinned woman with kinky, coily type 4 hair I understand our daily struggles.
They tell you that you don’t fit the world’s view of beauty. They tell you your hair texture isn’t “good enough” because it has a few extra curls that most don’t have.
But what they don’t know is the internal impact their external words have on our mental capacity. Since we don’t grow up in a world where kinky, natural hair is as accepted as often as our “good hair,” loose ringlet-having sisters, we’re undervalued, looked down on and as a result, our confidence shrinks.
Have you found yourself frustrated because your natural hair journey hasn’t gone picture perfect like you thought it would?
Or are you upset that your hair texture wasn’t what you thought it would be?
Having curly hair can be tough — and sometimes it seems even more difficult when you have a coily texture. However, it is your hair texture and no one else’s, so embrace it! Despite the world attempting to bring us down, we must continue to uplift one another and our little girls, showing hair brands why it should be looked at with as much value as anyone else’s strands.
Sure, we may have a tougher time combing our locks and retaining moisture, but our hair does everything that our sisters with 3a, 3b or 3c hair does. We can rock a mean wash-and-go, fierce twist-out, beautiful braid-out and any other updo style our creative heart’s desire.
We deserve the love and respect just as much as anyone else, because we are worthy and we represent the lives and realities of many women of color. I need you to know this, and live it.
So the next time you doubt your hair texture, feel like you cannot rock that style because it did not turn out as well as your favorite blogger or Instagram role model, shove those negative thoughts away.
Know you are setting an example for everyone in the type 4, coily and kinky natural hair community by embracing your own texture. The day you wear that style you thought was a disaster, you will inspire and encourage other women to do the same; that is what I hope to do every single day on my blog, ClassyCurlies.com.
Sure, the natural hair community is great for discovering new hair products and styles, but if you do not feel accepted, represented or confident in your natural beauty, everything falls to the wayside. Be confident in who you are, what you have and what you represent.
If no one has told you today: you matter.
Your hair is gorgeous and you have a brilliant mind that could change the world.
One of the rooms in your home acts as a hair care aisle everyday. Don’t believe me?
Your kitchen is loaded with ingredients that can treat and grow your hair. The best part: you probably already have all of the ingredients in your pantry and fridge. No matter if you suddenly ran out of your favorite hair products, or you want to start whipping up your own creations, here are some kitchen ingredients to add into your curly hair regimen.
Olive Oil
Whether you like to fry, sauté or roast your foods, olive oil is a must in the kitchen and when it comes to pampering your hair. While extra virgin olive oil is best, most regular store brands will help your hair become softer and more manageable with extended use.
How to use
Use it as a hot oil treatment after shampooing, or mix it with your conditioner for a deep conditioning treatment.
Honey
I’m not a fan of white sugar, but I’ll quickly add a spoonful of honey to my tea for a bit of sweetness. Honey is a natural humectant, which means it pulls moisture from the air – and I’m sure none of us are going to turn down extra hair moisture. Because it is also an anti-bacterial, it’s good for soothing the scalp for those that have problems like dandruff, eczema, and psoriasis.
How to use
Combine honey and olive oil, heat and use as a deep treatment masque.
Coconut Milk
I’ve seen many women ditch dairy products altogether for healthier alternatives like almond and coconut milk. Of all the kitchen ingredients, I get most excited about using coconut milk in my DIY hair care routine. It is loaded with nutrients like Vitamin E and great for treating your scalp.
How to use
Pour some coconut milk into a bottle with a nozzle tip and squeeze directly onto the scalp. Let sit for about 20 minutes before rinsing.
Yogurt
There are tons of varieties of yogurt on the shelves now days, but you’ll want to opt for plain (Greek if you can”> yogurt. Its anti-fungus properties help get rid of dandruff and dead skin cells.
How to use
Combine yogurt, olive oil and honey to create a deep treatment for your hair and scalp.
Do you have a cool kitchen DIY to share with the NC community? Share it in the comments!
Follow us on Instagram @NaturallyCurly for daily inspiration.
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