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The Top Scalp Care Essentials & Tips to Encourage Healthy Hair Growth
The Top Scalp Care Essentials & Tips to Encourage Healthy Hair Growth
By Verna Meachum ·
The Top Scalp Care Essentials & Tips to Encourage Healthy Hair Growth

Image:  Unsplash 

We often focus on healthy hair, but an often-overlooked factor is promoting scalp health and ultimately, hair health. Hair health is not complete without learning and understanding the scalp structure and anatomy. Understanding the scalp is essential to any hair growing endeavor. The scalp is the birthplace of every new hair, and if kept in proper condition, it will provide an optimal environment for the follicles to produce quality hair. 

 

What is the scalp? 

The scalp has an intricate network of blood vessels moving and carrying nutrients throughout, and because the scalp closely resembles skin on the rest of our body, most general skin features and functions also apply to the scalp. However, the scalp differs from skin on our body in that, it houses larger oil glands and produces more sebum (the scalp’s and our body’s natural oil”>, As with the layers of our skin, there are three layers to the scalp: the epidermis (uppermost”>, dermis (middle”> and subcutaneous (bottom”> layer. The subcutaneous layer houses the scalp’s blood supply vessels and fatty tissue. 

The epidermis (top layer”> of the scalp is further subdivided: stratum corneum (uppermost layer”>, is made up of dead, keratinized cells. The cells on the surface of the scalp naturally shed as new cells form. The stratum corneum is hugely crucial, in that, water housed in the deeper skin layers migrates upward to provide moisture and hydration to the stratum corneum. What happens next is that the skin’s moisture evaporates into the environment, which eventually leaves the skin feeling dry. This is precisely why it’s vital to hydrate the body from within- to fight scalp dryness. Furthermore, if you are dehydrated, your body will supply little moisture to the upper layers of your skin which means, subsequently, you will then have to rely on external moisturizing products to hydrate the scalp. 

Sebum’s primary function is to condition the skin and act as a barrier to prevent moisture loss. Sebum houses a variable mixture of fatty lipids that include; fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and glycerides. You may recognize many of these ingredients as those commonly found in deep conditioners and even hair oils.

We all know and or have heard that due to the nature of curly hair, sebum has a hard time working its way down the bends and twists along the hair shaft, preventing its spread throughout the hair (remember, sebum is a natural conditioner to the scalp and hair, which helps prevent moisture loss”>. 

Some individuals naturally have low sebum production rates, which can be an active contributor to chronic scalp dryness; however, other’s scalp dryness can be self-inflicted.  When we place products directly on the scalp, and it builds up, scalp conditions and hair growth issues can become compromised. Like skin, the scalp needs to be able to breathe. 

The Top Scalp Care Essentials & Tips to Encourage Healthy Hair Growth

Image:@tach.j

How can we increase scalp blood circulation?

Through exercise and scalp massages. When we exercise, we sweat. Through sweat, toxins, and waste, substances are flushed out from the skin pores. Likewise, when we sweat from our scalp, it helps to unclog the hair follicles, giving space for new growth. The bloodstream continuously transports oxygen and nutrients to the brain, skin, and vital organs in the body and exercising plays a pivotal role in improving blood circulation. 

Each hair follicle has blood vessels that nourish it by supplying it with oxygen and nutrients. Increased circulation stimulates growth in hair follicles, and regular exercise leads to better cell renewal. Exercise increases blood flow; the more the blood flows, the more nutrients and oxygen supply, thus, improving hair growth.

Here is what makes scalp massages more effective; You can increase the flexibility of and circulation to your scalp by gently massaging it daily. Physiological and nerve activity levels increase so as you massage your scalp; the blood vessels rush blood faster through that area. And since the blood is carrying food your cells take in they’re getting more in and in turn producing more protein.

We habitually engage in hair practices that strip our hair of its essential oils and nutrients — for example, using excessive shampoos, too much hair washing, overexposure to the sun, not applying enough conditioner. Hair oils can lubricate the scalp and stimulate its pores to produce more healthy, natural oils. Massaging oil into your hair stimulates blood circulation.

Keep in mind that all oils are not the same; some are actually “greasy” or “heavy.” Remember, only apply a small amount of oil to your scalp on an as-needed basis. But keep in mind that however, beneficial oiling the scalp may be for many people, it might not be right for everyone. 

Essential oils can help to repair the natural oil production and promote healthy hair growth. But you need to use the right types of essential oils for your scalp condition, like peppermint, tea tree, lavender, rosemary. Always make sure to use a carrier oil when an essential oil.

Here are some great blend of oils for the scalp:

 

How do we cleanse the scalp? 

If you want your hair growth to thrive, the scalp must stay clean, pH balanced, pliable, and positively stimulated. Hair receives nutrients it needs to grow via the bloodstream. So it’s as simple as this, increase the supply of blood to your hair follicles and you increase the supply of nutrients to your hair. An increase in blood flow also helps prevent dandruff, psoriasis, and other scalp problems that may affect growing healthy, strong hair. 

Clarifying Techniques

You should clarify your hair and scalp at least once a month with a clarifying shampoo to help remove buildup and dead skin cells. Try to leave the clarifying shampoo on your scalp for at least three minutes for a proper cleanse. 

Also, great for the scalp are exfoliating scrubs, which help remove dead skin cells.

Product Suggestions:

Clarifying Shampoos:

Sources: John Halal. Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified, 4th ed. Christopher Harris, “Scalp Anatomy,” Emedicine. Claude Bouillon and John Wilkerson, The Science of Hair Care. Dale H. Johnson. Hair and Hair Care. Kathleen V. Roskos and Rich H. Guy, “Assessment of Skin Barrier Function Using Transepidermal Water Loss: Effect of Age, “Pharmaceutical Research. 



How to Balance Moisture and Protein to Avoid Hygral Fatigue
By Verna Meachum ·

Establishing and maintaining a proper moisture/protein balance in our hair is vital to the success of any hair care regimen, and it is key to fighting hair breakage. With every hair product you use, it will tip your hair one way or the other on the moisture/protein balance scale. Several things can cause hair breakage; however, the two more common causes of hair breakage are moisture and protein deficiency. Each type needs to be handled accordingly and evaluated on its own merits and may require a different approach and product selection strategy to bring it under control. 

Moisture and protein imbalances within the hair fiber can be brought on by improper product usage and regular manipulation (whether self-inflicted or by chemical processes”>. We must make informed hair product selections for making the moisture/protein balancing process to work; we need a multi-product strategy to address our hair’s needs. Knowing the moisture/protein nature of products will be extremely helpful when it’s time to rotate hair products in your regimen. Product rotation is required, and experimentation is vital to mastering it.

How to Balance Moisture and Protein to Avoid Hygral Fatigue

Image: Unsplash 

 

 

What Is Hygral Fatigue?

Hygral fatigue occurs when the hair swells from repeated and excessive swelling and deswelling of the hair cuticle when it takes on water, continually wetting hair before it is thoroughly dried, and or the overuse of rich deep conditioning treatments or moisturizing products. It is often associated with porosity issues. The process of hair expansion in wet conditions and contraction under dry conditions is both stressful and damaging to the hair fiber over time.

Hygral Fatigue earned its definition from the term “hygral expansion.” It is described as:

“Hygral expansion measurements of woven wool fabrics are influenced by the way in which wet fabric, after relaxation in water, is dried. If the wet fabric is dried directly in an oven, the hygral expansion values are relatively low, but if the fabric is allowed to dry under ambient conditions before oven drying, the values are relatively high (and closer to the “true” values”>. An interlaboratory trial conducted using thirteen commercial worsted fabrics includes a statistical analysis of different methods for determining the magnitude of hygral expansion. The fabric drying conditions have an important bearing on the magnitude of the dry dimension, and this, in turn, influences the hygral expansion value obtained.” (Hygral Expansion of Woven Wool Fabrics”>

There is a difference between hygral fatigue and over-conditioned hair— if you are not exposing your hair to extensive amounts of water, your hair is merely over-conditioned.

Here’s a further breakdown according to the nerdy curl girl:

  1. Is hygral fatigue an interchangeable term for over-conditioning? No.
  2. If you are over-conditioned, are you also experiencing hygral fatigue? No.
  3. Is your hair also over-conditioned while it’s hygral fatigued? Yes! (Hence the confusion!”>

The nerdy curly explains that “People who are experiencing both may present with similar symptoms: the cause and reasonings are extremely different.”

“…perpetually moisturizing with water (a main moisturizing agent”> and conditioning agent while your hair is a fragile state. It’s often why you may notice hair breakage — especially in the nape area which is generally the area most likely to break due to friction. The excessive hydration has left your hair unable to soak in nutrients, weakened, and in need of being balanced.”

Before protein-deficiency breakage occurs, your hair will give you several warning signs. 

 

Signs Of Hygral Fatigue: 

  • Hair will feel limp and have a gummy feeling when wet and will stretch considerably in this weak state before breaking (it will almost feel like your hair will disintegrate. This is an indication that the structural protein elements of the hair are deficient and can’t properly balance the elasticity level in the hair”>
  • Excessive frizzing, hair is not retaining moisture and feels porous
  • Curls do not curl or hold styles well
  • No weight
  • Over-conditioned
  • In severe cases- breakage

 

How to Combat Hygral Fatigue & Keep Your Hair Balanced

You must learn to recognize the difference between moisture-based and protein-based imbalances, which will help you organize your hair care regimen more effectively when or if the issue arises. And understanding the difference between moisture/protein products and what they do for your hair is key to stopping breakage and achieving healthy hair.  The unique relationship that exists between moisture and protein within your hair is not merely a case of balancing one opposing force over the other. Instead, moisture and protein work together synergistically to produce healthy hair. 

A strong preference toward either moisture or protein, without sufficient balance, always results in breakage. Breakage is the result of the hair’s chemistry thrown off balance. Keeping the hair balanced between these two entities is crucial to maintain the condition of your hair. Achieving the proper moisture/protein balance involves using the right combination of moisture/protein products for your hair type at the RIGHT time. 

Beating Hygral fatigue is all about maintaining the innate protein structure of the hair shaft. If the protein structure is intact, the hair fiber will resist excessive expansion when wet. Ensuring a proper protein structure through timely protein conditioning treatment is essential.  Some proteins are better suited for reinforcing the hair’s infrastructure, while others are better at supporting the hair’s elasticity.

Note: The moisture/protein balance requirements and product selection will vary from hair to hair- If you choose products based on what someone else uses, your hair may not respond well because your hair is different from theirs. These regimens are also flexible. You can gauge the products you currently own by analyzing the ingredients list to determine where they would fit into your regimen.

Levels Of Breakage & Corrective Steps:

Protein-deficiency breakage is pretty simple to correct. As you follow these steps, you must pay attention to and evaluate your hair at each step because your hair’s condition may correct itself in the first one or two steps of the regimen; thus it may be unnecessary to follow the regimen from beginning to end. You may also need to adjust the conditioning times to reap the best benefits. 

Conditioning needs depends on your own level of breakage, prior treatments, specific product use, and level of hair porosity. I cannot stress enough that you need to learn how to read the cues your hair gives you. 

If your breakage is light, a protein-based conditioner or deep conditioner will do (this type of breakage is typically corrected with one protein deep conditioning session”>. You can also use light conditioners or leave-ins with protein.

Product Suggestions: Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner, Aveda Remedy Conditioner, or the Curls Hair Solutions Silk Protein Deep Moisturizing Treatment. If your breakage is on the moderate side, a mild protein reconstructor like the Curl Junkie Repair Me, or Aphogee Two-Minute Reconstructor will work best (once or twice a week”>. If your hair is breaking a lot, you need an intense protein reconstructor treatment like the Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment or Affirm 5 in 1 Reconstructor.Researchers discovered that using polar oils such as coconut oil protects the fiber against hygral fatigue. Pre-poo oil treatment with coconut oil (use for a few hours up until overnight, depending on your hair”>. If your hair does not like coconut oil, try another penetrating oil like grapeseed or sunflower. Penetrating oils will cut back on “waterlogging.”

Product Suggestions: Sunny Isle Jamaican Organic Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, Cococare Natural Grapeseed Oil, Plant Therapy Sunflower Oil.

To support the deepest penetration of protein, you must first wash with a low-level sulfate shampoo or a clarifying shampoo to lift products from the hair.

Product Suggestions: Kinky Curly Come Clean or Suave Essentials Daily Clarifying Shampoo. Depending on the intensity level of breakage (mentioned above”>, apply a protein-rich deep conditioner/reconstructor/protein treatment as directed on the instructions. Rinse with cool water. As you feel your hair begins to strengthen, you can then start incorporating more moisturizing products.

The Nerdy Curly Girl. J TRI/Princeton, Princeton, N. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2001 May-Jun;52(3″>:169-84. NCBI

How to Adjust Your Curly Hair Regimen for Fall No Matter Your Hair Type
By Verna Meachum ·
How to Adjust Your Curly Hair Regimen for Fall No Matter Your Hair Type

Image: Getty

The cooler fall weather brings dry, cold air, which can make your curls frizzy, brittle, and unmanageable at times. To avoid being cold or our skin drying out, we know to wear warmer clothes and to moisturize, right? But what do we do for our hair? Paying close attention to the changes in the atmosphere and the subtle ways our hair responds will ensure you give it exactly what it needs. We all know that Fall is an intermediate season.

According to the National Climate Data Center, on average, the transition from summer to fall means lower temperatures; humidity drops a little and sometimes higher winds. With a slight drop in humidity, rain, and temperature as well as an increase in cold winds, your hair will require a little more help to retain moisture and withstand breakage.

Clarify & Detox


Summer can leave a lot of build-up at your roots and can all cause greasy, limp roots. Start the fall season off by giving your scalp a good detox by using a clarifying shampoo once every two weeks, or as needed.

Product suggestions: 

For kinkier textures, winds can exacerbate more knots, which means more potential for tangles and giant knots, which can then lead to hair breakage. The best way to avoid it is to stay away from wearing your hair out and putting it into a protective style. Or if it’s out, wear it stretched.

To help prevent single strand knots, try using oils, like Righteous Roots Oils, or use your favorite blend of oil on the ends of your hair. Adding oil will:

  • Add weight to the ends of your hair
  • Keep individual strands lubricated so that they easily slide past each other and prevents them from curling or coiling onto each other

Moisture is always a good thing for curly hair, but it’s not enough to keep hair hydrated. To help hair from drying out sooner, amp up the moisture with a deep conditioner. The transition between summer to fall is when it is crucial to look for extra moisturizing ingredients. When lipids (oily ingredients are present in a deep conditioner, or if you add them, you get even more conditioning goodness clinging to your hair. Penetrating oils like coconut, sunflower, olive and avocado oil are great for more porous hair. Centrominium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, panthenol, and amino acids are ingredients that can penetrate the hair shaft for a deep conditioning effect. These penetrating ingredients are in the following deep conditioners:

For those whose who have high porosity hair, meaning your cuticles take in moisture easily but are unable to hold onto it for more than a day or two, a protein treatment will be a great reinforcement to your hair’s cuticle so that moisture absorbs and stays in longer. So, in colder dryer months, try a protein treatment at least once or twice a month.

For those who have low porosity hair, meaning it’s difficult for your hair to take in moisture, and when it does it holds onto it pretty well, regular deep conditioning treatments with the assistance of indirect heat (ex. Hot Head Thermal Cap”> will help penetrate more and last longer. Note: how “regular” you do a deep conditioning treatment will depend on your hair’s needs.

Everyone’s hair type and hair needs are different, so when planning a fall hair regimen, one size doesn’t fit all. It comes down to being able to observe how your hair is behaving. Dry, breaking hair is not a hair type so don’t be afraid to use more moisturizing hair products or try new products. Be consistent with doing quality treatments, protect your hair as you sleep in a satin/silk/slap cap/bonnet/pillowcase and the colder months won’t set you back.

How to Bounce Back from Bleached & Damaged Curly Hair
By Verna Meachum ·

Last week we talked about how to recover from damage by permanent color. Today we will discuss how to recover from bleach damage and heat styling tools. 

How to Bounce Back from Bleached & Damaged Curly Hair

Image: Unsplash 

Damage from bleach

If you’ve gone from dark to light hair, you probably know all too well the damage that bleach can inflict on your hair.

Bleach is used to remove your natural hair color from each strand through the process of oxidation. Oxidation decolorizes the pigment in your hair shaft. It makes your hair swell, allowing the bleach to reach the inner part of the strand. It literally dissolves the melanin that gives your hair pigment.

If left on too long, bleach will turn your hair almost white. Very bleached hair often gains a ‘yellow’ tint, because keratin (the protein your hair is made of”> is naturally a pale yellow tone. 

Bleaching raises your hairs’ outer cuticle to allow the bleaching agent to fully penetrate. However, repeated bleaching can permanently raise the cuticle scales which allows rapid and continuous loss of moisture. 

This process can leave hair dry, brittle, fragile, inelastic, porous, and more prone to breakage and split ends.

Bleached and chemically treated hair tends to be porous and can, therefore, have a higher affinity to conditioning ingredients because they have a low isoelectric point (meaning a higher concentration of negative sites”>. 

 

How to recover and prevent further damage

  • Bleach less frequently or not at all. There’s just no way around it. Bleach tends to damage your hair to some degree. The less you do it, the better.
  • Professional colorist- Request a hair bond builder. These are formulated to protect hair from chemical damage and prevent further damage. Ex. Olaplex, Redken pH Bonder, Smartbond, and Karaal Baco powder lightener, just to name a few. 
  • Try to use permanent color with low ammonia content (ex: Bacò by Kaaral “> 
  • Add moisture by doing regular deep conditioning treatments. Before bleaching, pay extra attention to moisturizing your hair and avoid other damaging activities, like heat styling, for a couple of weeks.
  • Use sun protection. The sun’s UV rays can harm your hair. Blonde and gray hair is especially susceptible to UV damage. 
  • During the hot months, try wearing a wide-brimmed hat or hair wrap to protect your hair and scalp. You can also use a UV protection hair spray (Ouidad Sun Shield Sun & Sport Leave-In or Phyto Phytoplage Protective Sun Veil“> to protect hair that peeks out.

 

Other Product Suggestions include:

 

Damage from using heat tools

Styling with heat can “cook” hair fibers and lead to raised cuticles and porous hair. If you’ve used heat styling tools on your hair for years, you might find that some sections have lost its elasticity, even after you wash your hair. 

When you use high heat too often, over a prolonged period of time, your hair can lose its ability to curl or revert back to its natural texture due to the loss of elasticity caused by heat damage. 

Hair that’s suffered considerable damage displays a few telltale signs: brittleness, loss of curl pattern, and breakage.

If this is the condition your hair’s in, you may be wondering if it’s possible to recover. 

Everyone’s case is different and the length of time for recovery will vary. Sometimes it is possible for the hair to regain some movement, and sometimes, you’ll have to grow your hair out. 

 

How to limit and prevent further damage

The first step to recovery is to clarify your hair to remove product buildup that can prevent moisture from getting into the hair.

Next, follow up with an application of a strengthening or conditioning mask or a combination of the two, depending on what your hair needs. Be careful not to overdo it—more isn’t always better, especially when it comes to protein treatments.

If you frequently use heat stylers, lower the temperature- the less heat you apply to your hair, the better. The reality is, if you continue using heat on your hair, especially while transitioning, you’re simply prolonging the process and setting yourself back.

The bottom line

Unless you have a time machine, you can’t undo hair damage once it’s done. But you can change your habits and give your hair some TLC.

If you aren’t seeing results after a few weeks, schedule an appointment with a professional stylist, where they can assess your damage and better advise you.



How to Recover From Dry & Damaged Hair Using These Holy Grail Products
By Verna Meachum ·
How to Recover From Dry & Damaged Hair Using These Holy Grail Products

Image: Unsplash via Cortney White 

Ever seem like you were taking one step forward and two steps back when it comes to damage by chemical processes or heat styling tools with your hair? 

So how do you go from dry, brittle, damaged hair to smooth, shiny, healthy hair? The answer isn’t always a simple one. For the most part, hair damage is permanent because hair is actually a collection of dead cells, making them beyond repair. The only real cure is time, a pair of shears, and taking steps to prevent new damage.

But don’t despair, with proper hair care and a few targeted treatments, you can help restore the outer cuticle and begin to improve the look and feel of your hair.

Sometimes it’s all too clear how you ended up with damaged hair. Maybe you used a flat iron on high heat one too many times. Perhaps, a chemical process like bleach was too strong or left on your hair too long. Whatever caused the damage, keep reading to learn how to prevent further damage. Note: you may need to repeat several steps to recover from all of the damage. 

 

Damage from permanent color

Whether you dyed your hair a bright color or just tried a new shade dying your own hair can have consequences that last longer than the color. Chemical dyes can remove your hair’s natural moisture, quickly making smooth hair coarse to the touch. Unless your hair was light, to begin with, you may also have had to bleach your hair before applying the dye. 

 

How to avoid further damage

Experts recommend choosing a dye within three shades of your natural color and opting for shades that are darker rather than lighter to limit the damage. Unnatural colors are more difficult to maintain (trust me- hence my custom shade of red hair”> and have to be touched up more frequently.

  • Dye less often. Extending the time between touch-ups can also help reduce damage. If possible, wait for 8 to 10 weeks or longer between dye jobs. This gives your hair time to recover between treatments.
  • Less frequent washing
  • Use shampoos formulated specifically for dyed/colored hair
  • Please go to a professional. Coloring is often best left to the professionals. A professional colorist knows how to use the correct products to minimize damage.
  • Try opting for demi- or semi-permanent. Chemical processes can change the hair so aggressively that the only fix is to grow it out and start over (sorry, but it’s just the truth”>. 

 

How to ease existing damage

Use oils. Oils have been shown by Trusted Source to help rehydrate the hair and smooth the cuticle. The key benefit? The oil’s molecules are small enough to penetrate the outer cuticle and hydrate from the inside out. It can also help replenish the protective oils on the outside of your hair.

Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners. These products are formulated with the proper pH to prevent the hair shaft from swelling. Your color will last longer and your hair will look and feel its best. 

 

Here are just a few suggestions for Color safe shampoos:

Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Shampoo 

Deva Curl low-poo Delight 

As I Am Curl Clarity Shampoo 

Evolve UltraShine Moisture Shampoo

Jessicurl Gentle Lather Shampoo 

Briogeo Don’t Despair Repair! Super Moisture Shampoo

The Mane Choice Easy on the Curls Detangling Shampoo

Briogeo Curl Charisma Rice Amino + Avocado Hydrating Shampoo 

Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Shampoo 

As I Am Coconut Cowash

 

Product Suggestions for Color Safe Conditioners:

Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Conditioner 

Mielle Organics Mongongo Oil Hydrating Conditioner

Mop Top Citrus Medley Light Conditioner 

Jessicurl Too Shea! Extra Moisturizing Conditioner

Curl Junkie Beauticurls Strengthening Hair Conditioner

 

Hair oil suggestions: 

Sunny Isle Jamaican Organic Extra Virgin Coconut Oil

Difeel Premium Coconut Oil

Righteous Roots Oil

Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners. These products are formulated with the proper pH to prevent the hair shaft from swelling. Your color will last longer and your hair will look and feel its best.

Next week we’ll continue with the series and talk about damage from bleach and heat styling tools, plus how to recover. Stay tuned.