Search Results: Verna Meachum

By Verna Meachum · Updated May 12, 2020

What is multi-textured hair? It means having more than one texture/curl pattern on your head. Regardless of your texture, porosity, hair color, or length, we all have moments of hair defiance, especially when you have multi-textured hair. It’s the unpredictable kind of challenge that has you feeling at a loss with handling your hair’s split personality. So, how do you handle multiple textures on your head? With a little trial and error, and a little creativity, you will be able to work with what you’ve got and make the most of it.

Image Source:

@happycurlhappygirl

First, we must all recognize that we cannot always change our hair. The most common reason for having multi-textured hair is genetics. If you’re desiring hair that is completely different from yours, you are sure to get frustrated. If you have multiple textures, it is normal and you’re not alone. Vitamin deficiencies or medication can cause a change in hair texture, but not always. However, if you notice a change in your texture along with either a change in diet or medication, then it might be a reason to check in with your doctor.

As a grown adult, genetics may not be the main factor to your hair variability anymore, but other things like a recent move to another location could be the cause of your texture change, along with the weather and humidity, or maybe your hair has gone through a chemical process, like permanent color or bleach. When you color your hair, the chemical process may alter the curl pattern, making your curls looser. In most cases this change is temporary, however, sometimes the changes are permanent.

If you’ve recently transitioned from damaged hair, the hair on the front of your head may take longer to recover and heal. With that being said, the front hairs of your head can be a lot looser. Don’t treat the front of your hair like you would the rest. For example, when using a gel, use more of it in the straighter /looser area, as it may need a stronger styling product to help hold your looser curl pattern.

If you have tightly coiled hair, try using heavier products to help loosen the texture and prevent a lot of shrinkage. Here is something that has worked for my tighter curls at the root area; after applying hair products, use a blow dryer with a diffuser to speed up the drying time in that area. Hold the ends of your hair taut and stretch it with your hands then concentrate the diffuser at the roots. This technique will help elongate the hair at the root, making your hair appear longer. Check out this video for a tutorial.

Tips & Tricks: If you want a more even curl pattern, you can blend the textures by using strategic styling with specific hair products.

Here are some styles to try:

• Banding
• Bantu knots
• Finger coils
• Parting your hair on its ‘best side’ is an easy solution for uneven/multiple textures
• Twists/Braid outs

Check-in with your hairstylist :

If you’re bothered by the way your hair doesn’t respond to anything you’ve tried, pay your hairstylist a visit. Perhaps, a custom cut or adding layers will do the trick.

Helpful tools:

You can merge your hair’s fickle curls by using a Denman brush. If used properly, it’ll create a smooth, more even curl pattern in areas that lack definition. Here are some other tools to try:

• Curlformers
• Flexi rods
• Foam rollers
• Perm rods

Here are some product suggestions to use with the hairstyles and tools:

• TRUE by made beautiful Moisturizing Styling Foam
• Giovanni Cosmetics Mousse Air-Turbo Charged™ Hair Styling Foam
• Mielle Organics Brazilian Curly Cocktail Curl Mousse
• CURLS Whipped Cream
• Curls Dynasty Vanilla Cream Custard Curl Defining Cream
• Curls Dynasty Twisted Definition Twisting Cream
• CURLS Blueberry Bliss Twist-N-Shout Cream

Have some tips of your own to share? Drop them in the comments!

By Verna Meachum · Updated April 13, 2020

Whether you’re blessed with natural waves, curls, coils, or looking to spice up your hair with a new color, these curly hairstyles, and trending colors are here to inspire you. Here’s to a fresh look into the Spring Season!

1. Side-Swept Curls 

Image Source: @goodgravyitswavy

An easy way to add volume to your curls is by sweeping them to the side. For added dimension, throw a couple of twists in there and voila!

2. Bobby Pin Details

Image Source: Essence

Ever wondered what else you could do with those bobby pins? How about using them as an accessory and creatively place them in your curls. Play around with them and see what you can come up with!

3. Curly Faux Hawk

Image Source: @kraziicurls

Think faux hawks are a thing of the past? Well, think again! This quick updo will take just a few short minutes, while keeping your curls intact to add texture and keep your hair out of your face.

4. Pineapple

Image Source: @curly.obsession

This is a sure way to show off those curls and an easy style for lazy days. Having a bad hair day, or simply want the hair off your neck? Find a scarf and wrap it up!

5. Corset French Braid

Image Source: Seventeen

Who would think it was possible to braid curly hair? No need to do this one tightly, just French braid it loosely, then wrap it under and secure.

6. Half -Up

Image Source: @beautybyelizabethmarie

Are there hairstyles for short curly hair? Why, yes, there is! This super-duper easy style will help keep the hair out of your face. 

7. Slicked-Back Ponytail

Image Source: @themestizamuse

Let’s face it, a ponytail hairstyle will never get old. Brush out or finger detangle your curls to change up the look.

8. Curly Bangs/Fringe

Image Source: @commonsenseandcurly

Curly bangs/fringe are in! There are several different types, and the key to the perfect bang is picking the right one for your face. It can be the ideal accessory to make a major statement.

9. TopKnot

Image Source: @chelliscurls

This topknot lets your springy curls add some personality to your most effortless updo. Pull out a few pieces of strands to finish the look.

When it comes to color trends, nothing is ever really out. That said, some looks naturally come and go — especially when it comes to hair color. A new decade brings new trends and fresh ways to color and highlight hair. To help you get inspired to make a hair color change, I’ve rounded up the seven prettiest hair color trends that you’re going to be seeing everywhere. Take notes and hit up your colorist.

10. Dip Dye Ends

Image Source: @sullyg_

This is the perfect way to add some bright color to your locks without having to dye your entire head. 

11. Shadow Roots

Image Source: @nubiarezo

If you already let your roots grow out a little bit longer than you should between dye jobs, you might want to try out this shadow roots hair color trend. It’s when you dye your roots a darker color than the rest of your hairto create a “shadow” contrast. It’s a great option for women who don’t want to drastically change their hair color, and for those who are fed up with regular hair color appointments.

12. Silver 

Image Source: Hair Shepherd

One of the most popular spring hair colors for 2020 is silver hair color. From silver blondes to shimmering greys, these are the metallic hair hues that will convince you to reach for that silver hair dye.

And now for some fun colors!

Image Source: @rassastta

Image Source: @leysahairandmakeup

Image Source: @tierechristyan

Image Source: @daynabolden

Image Source: @leysahairandmakeup

Which style is your favorite? Share with us in the comments! 

By Verna Meachum · Updated March 18, 2020

Image: @philipegd

Your hair isn’t called your ‘Crowning Glory’ for nothing. To keep your curls radiating and healthy, a bit of care is needed. While you should take good care of your hair at any given time, come Spring, it becomes more critical.

The best way to prepare your crown for the changes in weather begins with what you eat to the types of products and styles you wear. Need details on how to provide the best care for your hair as the season changes? Keep reading. 

Simplicity and ease of hair manageability is the ultimate desire of all us curlies, and this is true for all of us regardless of our hair type and location. However, some uncontrollable factors significantly influence our desired wash day results. The weather, seasonal changes are one of the most critical among them. Temperature and changes in humidity cause significant changes at the surface of the hair, which greatly alter its dynamics. “Frizz” or “Frizzy Hair” is a problem that is common to most of us, but how can we minimize its effect?

What is Frizz & Frizzy Hair?

Frizz is defined as an undesired physical change that makes our hair dull and difficult to style. These changes are quite visible and are easy to see, but what causes our hair to become frizzy in the first place?

Mechanisms of Frizz. Humidity and temperature conditions change during winter and summer. Winter is generally dry with low humidity and low temperature. However, summer has higher temperatures and humidity (obviously depending upon your location”>. Hair is known to absorb moisture from the surroundings. Under high humidity conditions, hair may gain weight up to 30% of its original dry weight due to absorption and desorption of keratin fibers. Scientific studies have shown that high water uptake under high humidity conditions changes the surface properties of hair. In addition, it also induces structural changes deep inside hair fiber involving chemical bonding. We know, hair is made up of keratin protein and has various chemical bonds in its protein structure that keep its whole morphological and mechanical unit intact. Under normal or moderate humidity conditions, protein bonds (peptide bonds”> are more bonded to each other; however, under high humidity and increased water level, proteins form hydrogen bonding with water molecules- this changes the whole chemical structure of hair fiber and thus alters the mechanical and tensile properties of hair. Hair becomes fluffy, fragile, and is vulnerable to breaks/splits. Interestingly, these changes are temporary and reversible as a decrease in humidity restores the peptide bonds. 

Well-conditioned. Hair needs a tiny fatty layer at its outer surface. During shampooing, hair loses some of its sebum. A good blend of emollients, natural oils, and long-chain hydrophobic polymers (i.e. polysaccharides, including starch and cellulose derivatives, natural gums, and hydrolyzed proteins”> can restore and improve the surface slip and shine. A deep conditioning treatment at least once a week ensures hair is conditioned and well prepared to face adverse changes of weather. Frizzy hair having broken and split ends contribute to a dry feel. Repairing this damage by applying conditioning polymers or oils, is perceived as “moisturization,” as they change the surface properties to make hair feel smoother.

Ingredients to Use for Curly Hair:

Natural Oils & Butters. Recent research has focused intensely on how to control frizzy hair. Natural oils and butters are the best remedy to make a perfect water-resistant layer on the hair surface. They are superb sealants that align cuticles to minimize fiber friction. Besides using natural oils, silicones are designed to specifically control and minimize frizz. They are tuned to a desired molecular weight and size to form a thin water repellent layer.  There is a new generation of these silicones that are modified, having long carbon chains along with fluoro groups attached. This gives them a unique characteristic to perform even under extreme weather conditions without causing any greasiness or limp down effect.

Proteins. Proteins are known to coat hair fiber and fill the gaps/holes (if any”> inside the hair’s surface to restore its mechanical strength. Their coating, though hydrophilic, controls the passage of water molecules in a “Need & Demand system,” meaning providing the hair with a sufficient quantity of water that it needs under the external weather and internal water levels. It can be called a “smart system,” ensuring healthy hair. It is highly recommended to have protein treatment once in a while to maintain healthy hair. 

Ingredients to avoid:

Sulfates. Sulfates are potential irritants to the scalp and also responsible for eroding proteins from the hair’s surface. They make hair dull by removing natural hair sheen. As explained earlier, we need to avoid “over cleaning.” Avoid harsh chemicals or at least decrease their application frequency to help control the frizz problem. 

Humectants. Humectants (glycerin & propylene glycol”> are known for their moisturizing properties. They act as a two-way direction mechanism. Under high humidity conditions when there is plenty of moisture in the air, humectants attract water molecules from the surroundings and impart it to the hair, however, under low humidity conditions, when the air is drier, and there is low moisture content in the air, humectants work opposite by extracting water molecules from hair (or scalp surface”> and releasing into the surrounding.  It is best to avoid excessive use of glycerin and propylene glycol, especially under humid and wet weather conditions, as they would continue to add more and more water into the hair when it no longer needs it.

Here are some products that will provide hold while keeping curls defined:

Ouidad has the Advanced Climate Control Heat and Humidity Gel blended with natural extracts, proteins and styling polymers to resist humidity and heat damage along with holding style for a desired period of time. Oribe offers an “Anti-Humidity Spray” to preserve hair physiology against extreme weather changes. It’s a combination of styling cross-polymer and vitamin E to fight against free radical damage. “EASY RIDER” crème by Kevin Murphy is another option for the spring season to combat frizz. It activates curls, provides flexible hold with nourishment to hair & scalp. Bounce Curl has an alcohol-free hairsprayfor frizz-prone hair for a high humidity season.

Bouncecurl also has a leave in conditioner and curl cream that is perfect for protecting hair during the spring season. 

If you need anti humectant products, try Oribe Curl Gelee, which has a chock-full of nourishing oils,  that will shape and tame curls without weighing your hair down.As I Am Curling Jelly, is a great curl enhancer for natural hair. This holding jelly defines your hair while offering moisture boosters that keep frizz from plaguing your curls. Curl Keeper Original, is a no brainer. It’s a curly girl favorite for adding definition and made to withstand the humidity. It reactivates with water, so spritzing frizzy areas each morning will extend the life of your styles in between wash days. There are so many great products on the market that you can add to this list, but I wanted to provide a starting point.

When it comes to using oils, my advice is to look for a combination of natural oils and styling polymers to hold your style in spring. For example, Argan Oil, African Baobab seed oil and Meadowfoam seed oil, and Righteous Roots Oils. 

By Verna Meachum · Updated February 28, 2020

Calling all curls: this one’s for you. It’s time to talk about haircuts, which come in many different shapes and styles. There’s no such thing as one single curl pattern. Even on your head, you have several different curl patterns. Nonetheless, your curls deserve to thrive, and there are endless ways to style them. Whether you’re searching for the best haircut for your hair or struggling to deal with your rebel curls that refuse to stay in place, in today’s blog, I’ll be sharing five different curly haircuts to choose from for manageable and impressive-looking hair every day to try to make your life easier, plus, I reached out to a few professional Curly Hair Stylists, who were so gracious to share some of their best tips on how to prep for a haircut, what happens during a consultation, and being clear on your hair goals are, etc.

Types of Curly Hair Cuts

Deva Cut

Image Source: @_cicichanel_

This dry-cutting technique, conceived by Lorraine Massey, the author of “The Curly Girl Handbook,” is based on the idea that we wear our hair dry, so why not cut it that way too? By cutting the hair dry, in its natural state, stylists can cut the curls where they fall naturally and thus create a beautiful shape. The curl pattern and density are analyzed to determine where on the head to begin elevating and creating layers. You and your stylist design the cut and shape.

Image Source: Hairstylist Julisssa Maldonado

This is a wet-cut technique with the philosophy being that curls are not consistent daily, so when you get them cut wet, your curls are being shaped into a pattern that will create movement and consistency. Ouidad has a patented method known as the ‘Carve and Slice’ technique. Hair is either carved, removing more hair typically on tighter, thicker curls or sliced, removing less hair to create volume and shape on finer, looser curls. Ouidad believes that by skillfully carving and slicing curly hair, the stylist can create a hair shape that causes the curls to cascade and fit together like pieces of a puzzle to ensure a consistent and flawless style every time you go in for a cut.

Image Source: @nubiarezo

Created by Master stylist and curl expert Nubia Suarez. The most noticeable difference between a Deva cut and a Rezo cut is that “The Deva cut focuses on framing your face, while the Rezo cut maintains an even length around your head. It liberates the curls from the root area so they can move about freely meaning— if you straighten a DevaCut, your hair may appear to be uneven, while the Rezo Cut will look even in both a curly and straightened state. The Rezo Cut is also perfect for curlies who love their length, as it creates shape while maintaining both length and volume.

RI CI Cut- This cut was created by Ricky Pennisi, known as “The King of Curly Hair.” He bases his technique on hair weight and density rather than curl pattern. This method is performed on wet hair and works on all textures, thicknesses and lengths. The stylist begins by determining what the problem area is, hair is then worked on in individual sections and cuts are made only when necessary. After each cut, the hair is shaken out to ensure that the hair lies properly before tackling the next section.

Youtube video of RI CI Cut technique.

Mona Cut

Image Source: @themonacut

Best described by Master Stylist, Mona herself, “ The Mona Cut works with your hair’s natural texture and motion, in order to enhance the beauty that’s already there. Strong but fluid, the goal is to create shapes that suit your lifestyle and reflect your journey.”

Tips from the Pros

Curl Specialist and Celebrity Stylist, Christin Brown

“As a professional stylist, prepping for our haircut session is absolutely pivotal in hitting a picture-perfect result. I love to follow the mantra of the 3-D’s; arrive for our session detangled, down, and dry. Because I cut my guest’s hair dry and in its naturally curly state, seeing how they wear their hair and how their curls live is key. I will also ask them questions during our in-chair consultation such as how they wear their part in their hair, what colors or patterns would I find in their closet at home, as well as what makes them feel sexy when going out. These direct questions help me paint the picture of who is sitting in my chair and what their personality may reflect. My end goal is to see how I can then translate that into the custom and one-of-a-kind haircut for them. Trust me, it matters.”

Curl Artist and Texture Expert, Daisy “Daze” Henson

• Best tips on how to prep for a haircut:I ask my clients to wash, detangle and style their hair the day before their appointment. I also want them to come in with their curls defined with the products they typically use. This allows me to see the results they get at home so that I can help them improve on their styling process and also upgrade the products they are using for their curls. I request that they allow their hair to air dry or dry with a diffuser. Clips, hats, twist outs and pulled back styles are a no-no. They can prevent me from seeing the client’s natural curl pattern and complicate the process.
• On the importance of a consultation:This is the perfect time for the client to ask all of their questions. I tell them to bring a list or snap a few pics of the products they use. Bring inspiration pictures to help convey your vision and hair goals.
• On understanding your hair goals:Make sure your client understands your collaborative vision with them. Be honest with what you can deliver and also what you can’t. Your client also needs to understand that when you cut any amount of hair, their curls are going to have a certain amount of shrinkage because of removing weight. Make sure they are comfortable with how much hair you plan to cut. If your client has damaged hair, don’t assume they are ready for a “big chop”.

Check out these haircuts too for more curly hair inspo!

By Verna Meachum · Updated February 4, 2020

Two natural elements straight from Mother Earth that provide powerful cleansing and detoxifying effects on the hair: Bentonite clay and Charcoal. Activated charcoal and bentonite clay are not related, yet both have similar qualities and capabilities aside from cleansing when it comes to your hair. Putting clay or charcoal in your hair may not seem glamorous, but it’s proven to have many benefits when used safely and properly. Today’s post focuses on the beneficial attributes both have to offer and five DIY recipes to try on your own hair.

Activated charcoal is a type of charcoal used to trap toxins, impurities, chemicals and prevents the body/hair from absorbing them. The process is called charcoal detox. The negatively charged charcoal attracts positively charged toxin molecules.

Activated charcoal helps to gently cleanse impurities by attracting dirt and oil and is then washed away, all the while not disrupting the hair’s natural moisture levels.

As complex as it may seem, most hair detoxing instructions are cost-effective and use just a few simple ingredients. As with all at-home methods, make sure to do a patch test before use, and immediately wash off if your skin feels uncomfortable.

This is a natural clay that is sourced directly from the earth and contains natural minerals beneficial to your hair. It is also known as Aztec Indian Healing Clay, formed by the weathering of volcanic ash in the presence of water.

It has a negative charge (anionic”> that makes it effective at drawing out toxins, chemicals, metal, and impurities. It also attracts positive charged (cationic”> products that build up on the hair and scalp, working as a clarifier and detoxifier.

Bentonite clay also has antimicrobial properties to help with an irritated or flaking scalp. It moisturizes, conditions, and softens hair.

Note: Make sure to use a non-metal spoon and bowl to mix ingredients.

Image Source: @naturallycurly

1. Activated Charcoal Hair Detox

• 1 teaspoon activated charcoal
• 1-2 pouch shampoo

• Mix activated charcoal with shampoo
• Apply it to hair
• Massage for 5 minutes
• Wash with water

How it works: the mixture of regular shampoo and activated charcoal not only removes surface dirt but will also pull out even more.

2. Bentonite Clay Hair Mask

Ingredients

• ½ cup bentonite clay
• 6 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
• 1 tablespoon coconut oil (optional”>
• ½ tablespoon castor oil (optional”>
• ½ tablespoon almond oil (optional”>
• Water

• Mix the bentonite clay, coconut oil, castor oil, & almond oil in the bowl with a spoon.
• Add the apple cider vinegar and let it froth for 15 seconds before mixing it vigorously. Make sure there are no lumps.
• Let the mixture sit for a couple of minutes. It should create a smooth, yogurt-like consistency.

3. Hair Detox Mask

• Bentonite clay powder
• Apple cider vinegar
• Aloe vera gel

Procedure

• Combine 1/2 cup each of bentonite clay powder, apple cider vinegar & aloe vera gel.
• Spread generously throughout the hair, applying on the scalp as well.
• Place a shower cap on and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Don’t let the mixture dry out.
• Rinse your hair with 1 cup of vinegar and allow it to sit for at least 1 to 3 minutes, then use a gentle clarifying shampoo.

4. Bentonite, Tea, and Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Mask

• 4-5 Tbsp. Bentonitie clay
• 1 Tbsp. Apple cider vinegar
• A few drops of your favorite essential oils
• Cooled herbal tea of your choice (I.e. nettle, rosemary, chamomile, calendula, etc.”>
• Water

• Combine and mix all ingredients in a bowl
• Wash your hair as usual, rinse, and start applying the mask from the roots and work down to the entire length.
• Massage gently and leave on for about 20 minutes.
• Rinse thoroughly with water and for the final rinse

5. Bentonite Clay & Honey

Mix clay, apple cider vinegar and honey to the consistency of yogurt. The procedure will be the same as the Bentonite, Tea, and Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Mask recipe.

Bonus: Create Your Own Detox Recipe

If you’re cautious about using clay or oils in your hair, there are other natural ingredients you can use to help remove buildup.

• Micellar water. This cleanser draws out impurities without drying out the hair.
• Baking soda. It may remove oil and buildup, but it’s not suitable for dry, processed, or heat damaged hair. Do not use too much baking soda as the ph level is pretty high. Use with caution.
• Use lemon with water as the final rinse.

Which one are you going to try? Share with us in the comments!

By Verna Meachum · Updated January 27, 2020

Image: @torinashtun

When the temperatures drop, the beating wind and cold air are guilty of stripping every ounce of moisture from your curls. And when the temperatures climb, while the sun feels great on your skin, its harmful UV rays can wreak havoc on your tresses. 

Conditioners, hair masks, and oils seem like the logical fix for dry or parched hair. But in today’s blog, I’m going to provide a much simpler solution: hair steamers. Steaming is one of the best things you can do to pamper your hair. Even though you might be using different kinds of products to achieve healthy, soft, and supple hair, the products might only work to a certain extent or may not work at all if the products do not penetrate deeply and get absorbed in your hair. But when you use a hair steamer, it ensures deep penetration and absorption of the products into your hair. 

There are lots of benefits to using a hair steamer, such as to restore color vibrancy, to strengthen the elasticity of hair, but the most well-known benefit is moisture retention. The steamer uses heat and water to lift the hair’s cuticle and allow conditioners and other treatments to penetrate the hair strands. 

The Different Types of Steamers 

There are traditionally two types of hair steamers — hooded and handheld. If you choose a hooded steamer, go with a big or large hood. A wide and deep hood will ensure you cover the back, front, and edges of your hair. If you choose a handheld steamer, select a steamer with a large water reservoir so that there will be enough water for your conditioning sessions, and this will ensure that there are no interruptions during the steaming session. You can easily cover your strands with a handheld steamer, although it can be a little bit tiresome, holding the steamer in your hands while steaming.

How To Prep Your Hair 

To get the most out of hair steaming at home, prep your hair with your favorite deep conditioner. I personally love As I Am Hydration Elation, Briogeo, Mielle Organics Babassu Oil & Mint Deep Conditioner, and Red Rawkyn. Or you can add a few drops of hair oil, like Righteous Roots Oil to any deep conditioner for added hydration. If alternating between pre-poo oil and deep conditioning treatments, I suggest weekly or bi-weekly steaming. Just be sure not to overdo it as over-steaming can over-moisturize your hair, making it limp and weak. So, use a hair steamer for no more than 20 to 30 minutes.

By Verna Meachum · Updated November 18, 2019

When it comes to our hair, it is important to keep it healthy. With all the manipulation, daily wear and tear, exposure to the elements during the week, it’s okay to give your hair an occasional deep conditioning treatment to help support health, hydration, strength, and overall appearance.

Deep conditioning is a process between shampooing and styling your hair designed to help restore and maintain moisture. Deep conditioners contain a concentrated mixture of cationic, moisture-boosting elements and sometimes proteins to both reinforce the hair cuticle and impart moisture. The proteins in the formula ensure that the hair retains the moisture it receives and secures it deep within their fiber to support hair until the next deep conditioning treatment. Incorporating a deep conditioning treatment in your regimen can help you maintain healthy hair.

There are many benefits of a deep conditioning treatment for your hair. Though many people use it, some people are still confused if they should use one or not.

Whose hair needs deep conditioning?

Not everyone’s hair. For those with healthy hair, deep conditioning is not necessarily needed. You can simply choose to use conditioner each time you wash your hair, but that is your choice. Using a deep conditioner on a regular basis, however, may cause your hair to look greasy and dry your scalp out. In this case, it’s okay to skip the deep conditioner.

Let’s look at what Wendy, the Hair Scientist had to say as to whose hair needs deep conditioning:

• Bleached hair (highlights, “lightener,” hair dyed with permanent-color or demi-permanent color”>
• Very long hair that feels dry and rough on the ends
• Hair that tangles easily (it may be straight, wavy, curly or tightly coiled”>
• Hair that is experiencing a lot of breakage (at the ends, mid-shaft splits, or anywhere else”>
• Hair that is acting frizzy or poofy or flyaway and needs weight and/or slip to pull itself together
• Hair that feels constantly dry
• Hair that has spent many hours in the full summer sun, in swimming pools, in saltwater, in dry wind
• Hair that feels dry, rough, inflexible and dull
• Hair frequently straightened or curled with high-heat styling tools (high heat blow dryer, curling iron or straightening irons”>
• Hair that has been chemically straightened or curled

Benefits of deep conditioning

• Restores luster and shine
• Promotes elasticity
• Restore dry or damaged hair
• Prevents damage
• Adds moisture
• Restores pH balance of hair
• Mitigates damage from other treatments/chemical processes

Do’s and Don’ts

Now that you understand whose hair needs a deep conditioner and its’ benefits let’s discuss a few do’s and don’ts and how to know when your hair needs a deep conditioning treatment.

• Don’t deep condition your hair daily
• Make sure that you are not over conditioning your hair by leaving it on too long
• Use indirect heat when deep conditioning to help it penetrate your hair shaft (especially low porosity hair”>
• Use cool water to rinse, which will close the hair cuticle and keep the moisture in your hair

How to know when your hair needs a deep conditioning treatment

How often you should deep condition will depend on the condition of your hair (as mentioned above”>. Some people have dryer hair that may require deep conditioning 1 – 2 times a week. Deep conditioners should be used weekly on damaged hair and hair that is just beginning a new healthy hair regimen. Once hair regains its strength, deep conditioning frequency then becomes a matter of personal choice.

Deep Conditioner Recommendations:

1. Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair

2. Mielle Organics Babassu Oil & Mint Deep Conditioner

3. As I Am Hydration Elation Intensive Conditioner

4. Red Rawkyn Moisture Me

5. Camille Rose Naturals Algae Deep Conditioner

What’s your favorite deep conditioner? Share with us in the comments below!

By Verna Meachum · Updated November 14, 2019

One of the most popular methods for getting the health of your curls back is ‘The Curly Girl Method’. While this method has some great ideas, it is not without its challenges because it has a few rules that must be followed and that can be overwhelming. Either way, you may have found that this process is no longer working for you and wonder if anyone else is experiencing the same.

Today, we are going to share three Instagrammer’s stories on whether they follow the CG Method or not, their top tips for caring for their hair, what ingredients are non-negotiable and essential. 

Megan Linny @wavycurlychronicles

Hi, I’m Megan, mama of 4 curlies. I was inspired by my first daughter to embrace my wavy hair so that I could teach her by example how important it is to love yourself just as you are. Once I stopped straightening my own hair, she stopped asking to straighten hers. And we both learned together how to care for our different textures. 

“Unlike many, I am a daily washer. I have a very active lifestyle and have never really had success with multiple day hair, even during my “flat iron” days. That has always been at the forefront of my journey because I’ve focused on finding a routine that is simple and fits into my morning routine without hours of wet hair dangling on my shoulders. What I’ve learned is that I can maintain healthy hair even if I wash (and diffuse”> daily as long as I use quality, moisturizing products. I do not strictly follow the Curly Girl Method.  I shampoo daily. My favorite is Curlkeeper Treatment shampoo which has a sulfate in it, but it is pH-balanced for curly hair so it leaves my waves clean yet moisturized. However, I strictly avoid silicones.  I use the Curlkeeper flexi brush to smooth and detangle my hair after applying my leave-in. My favorite lines for stylers are Curlkeeper and Jessicurl.  Over the last year, my hair has become very healthy and doesn’t need much protein, so my stylers are typically protein-free. After applying my products I diffuse my waves, alternating from cool to warm air as I go. The warm air helps activate my waves.  I also do nightly scalp massages with Righteous Roots Oil (which I also use to scrunch out my cast once my hair has fully dried”>. This oil blend helps keep my scalp happy while also promoting hair growth and offering amazing frizz control and shine. My biggest tips for wavies are the following:

• Less is more. Use less product and more water. Water helps the product spread. It will also prevent your waves from getting weighed down with product.
• Do not fear shampoo.  Waves need to be kept buildup-free. Even if you can manage multiple day hair, do not underestimate a regular shampoo and clarifying wash.   
• Do everything in moderation.  If you love your results after a protein treatment or deep conditioning masque, don’t do it repeatedly. Wavy hair can easily suffer protein overload or moisture overload. Space out treatments and do not leave them on for extended periods.
• Learn to read labels. You should learn to identify silicones (non-water soluble vs. water-soluble”>, drying alcohols and proteins. You cannot simply trust “marketing.” The longer you put off learning the basics of ingredients, the slower your transformation will be.
• Do not expect overnight results. It takes a year, sometimes longer, especially if you dye your hair, to go through different seasons/climates and adjust to your hair’s ever-changing needs. Don’t give up; track your progress and be patient.”

Jennifer Cifuentes @curlycurvypassion

Jennifer is a veteran in the curly hair community and has over 20 years of experience in the salon and beauty industry. She is also known for igniting the curly girl method rule-breaking conversation series including, #ThinCurlThursdays, and #FineCurlFriday as part of her mission to spark conversation and have better representation and support for low-density, thin curls, and those dealing with medically related hair loss. Because she has thin and low-density hair and there has been a lot of confusion between both terms, Jennifer felt this was a great opportunity to create a space where the challenges of both fine and thin waves/curls could be discussed and supported. 

Kyla Dobbins @Chiaricurls

Kyla Dobbins is a 35-year-old mom of two boys who recently graduated with her BA in business. She’s a six-time brain surgery survivor due to a rare, incurable illness called Chiari Malformation, in which she loves to spread awareness.

“You probably wouldn’t believe me if I told you that my hair and I have been through so much over the years. From shaving it completely off for brain surgery, then to it growing back waist-length, only to later suffer from postpartum shedding.  From my family’s point of view, I care for my hair as if caring for a newborn. I can’t totally disagree. I mean why shouldn’t I? With society telling us how to wear our hair, and kids getting expelled for wearing their natural hair…it’s my crown that I am proud to wear daily. 

I have a consistent regimen that I do to maintain my hair and keep it healthy. Pre-poo, deep condition weekly (with heat”>, monthly protein treatments, limit heat to twice a year, trim every 2-3 months religiously, low manipulation styles , and sleep in a satin bonnet. My hair is prone to single strand knots so I stay away from wash and go’s, which allows me to retain length.  I mainly do twist outs and braid outs. Once my hair is finished for the week I don’t touch it, unless I’m doing my scalp massages, preferably with Righteous Roots oils and steam.  

I don’t exactly follow the curly girl method, as I love my shampoos and actually am not a fan of co-washing. I have low porosity Hair so build up can become a problem. Also, I don’t finger detangle. The Tangle Teezer and Brush with the Best are my faves when it comes to detangling and styling. I just do what works for me and my hair, and I’ve learned a lot through trial and error. 

Now I’m sure you’re wondering what ingredients I stray from. Honestly, I typically only use all natural products, my hair just seems to respond to them a lot better, and I am a little health conscious since being diagnosed with a neurological disorder. I prefer products to contain Ayurvedic herbs, which is why Curls and Potions is one of my favorite brands. Their products are full of Ayurvedic herbs that help with retaining moisture and length, while helping strengthen the hair. With styling products, I do prefer using creams and butters over gels since they are more moisturizing. I’ve only found a few gels that actually add moisture to my hair from a small brand Twisted Aloe, which are primarily made of Aloe Vera, hence the name. 

There is one thing that will remain true throughout anyone’s journey, not just regarding hair either, what works for someone else may not work for you.”

The journey to healthy hair is different for everyone. There is no magic pill or secret potion; it’s just consistency and dedication to proper care and taking a proactive approach to your journey with whatever method or technique you choose to use. It doesn’t matter how technically or logically sound a method is, or even how many people have tried it before, what matters is whether the method works best for your hair and lifestyle. 

When it comes to curls, there is no one size fits all formula simply because curly hair is fickle, and all hair types aren’t created equal. You owe it to yourself to find what works best for your own hair. Take the challenges that come as a course for educating yourself and learn to grasp the need to listen to your hair. Always remember to let your hair be your guide.

By Verna Meachum · Updated November 5, 2019

Image: Unsplash via @scoutthecity

Most people experience hair loss at some point in their lives. But what is the difference between normal hair shedding and severe hair loss? 

Many see hairs in their brush or shower drain daily. In fact, most of our average daily hair shed is within normal ranges; 50 – 150 hairs per day. If you see significantly more than 150 hairs in your hands, hairbrush, or shower drain throughout the day, consider consulting your doctor to find out if your hair loss is caused by illnesses, medications, thyroid conditions, or other serious causes of hair loss.

Daily shedding is temporary (unless caused by internal issues, such as stress, hormonal changes, or poor diet”>, and is part of the natural hair growth cycle. After the Anagen (growing”> phase of the hair growth cycle is complete, the hair follicle enters the Catagen (transition”> phase of the hair growth cycle, where the hair follicle shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla (located in the uppermost layer of the dermis”>.

Hair may also thin as we age. In this case, you may want to add hair growth vitamins or hair growth supplements to your daily routine to help nourish thinning hair follicles and prevent further hair loss. Supplements such as Curls Blissful Lengths Liquid Hair Growth Vitamin, Mielle Organics Adult Healthy Hair Formula Vitamins, The Mane Choice Manetabolism Plus Vitamins, help promote healthy hair growth and reduce hair shedding in women.

Postpartum Shedding

Pregnancy is probably the most amazing and physically demanding experience the body can go through. Even when you think you’ve mentally prepared yourself, the inevitable can still take you by surprise.  Whether you have experienced postpartum shedding or not, nothing can truly prepare you for your hair falling out in clumps or seeing strands of your hair on your clothes or pillowcase in unprecedented numbers.

Postpartum shedding is a temporary form of alopecia called Telogen Effluvium. Postpartum shedding after giving birth is a natural process, and nothing will be able to stop it; it is completely normal and very common. After the baby is born, estrogen levels drop significantly, which means that the hairs in the Anagen phase (growing”> get unlocked and transition into the Catagen phase (transition”>, followed by the Telogen phase (resting”>. Telogen Effluvium is triggered by a change in hormones that pushes more hair than usual into this part of the hair cycle. As a result, the number of hairs shedding will increase.

Once this happens you lose a large amount of hair. This usually occurs approximately 1-5 months postpartum. The amount lost will roughly equal the amount of hair gained, but any form of hair loss can seem alarming, especially following a growth spurt. For the majority of cases, postpartum hair loss is self-correcting, the hair will return to the Anagen phase and continue to grow as normal once the hormone levels (especially estrogen and progesterone”> return to normal. The hair should go back to its usual growth cycle between 6-12 months.

It is crucial during this time to keep yourself stress-free as much as possible. Taking your prenatal vitamins and or supplements and having a balanced nutritious diet with a range of fruits and vegetables will ensure that you are replenishing lost minerals and vitamins. Make sure to get your vitamin levels checked; low zinc and iron are common after having a baby, and it can make the state of your hair worse. If you feel that you are experiencing significant hair loss while you are pregnant, this may be due to a vitamin or mineral deficiency. And if you think your hair isn’t back to normal after about a year, consult with your doctor. 

By Verna Meachum · Published October 30, 2019

Image: Unsplash

The words hair and oil together can be terrifying to people who have been lead to believe that applying oil to the hair is a big no-no. There has been a lot of misinformation thrown around concerning hair oils, and in today’s blog, we will discuss some of the more common misconceptions. We will also share a variety of ways to use hair oils. 

Hair oils are all the same.

Some oils can penetrate the hair shaft to support moisture retention, while others only coat the hair. There is a perfect oil for almost every hair type—though the process of finding your perfect match can be a game of trial and error. Different oils have different perks, so target them to your needs. It is also essential to figure out the specific amount for your OWN hair.  Note: Oils do NOT equal moisture.

Oils are heavy.

Not all oils are created equal. While some oil products sit on top of the hair strands, others like coconut oil can absorb into the hair fiber due to its high concentration of lipids and minerals that work to protect and keep the hair hydrated. The key is to be mindful of how much and how often you’re using it to avoid weighing hair down or build-up.

Oils will make your hair look greasy.

Only a pea-sized amount of oil is needed; a little goes a long way. Oils are a great way to smooth frizz and to keep ends lubricated. They are a sealant as well, so they seal the cuticle down. Be sure you avoid applying too much, which is what can make hair look greasy and make sure your hair even needs it.

Oils don’t belong on hair.

Hair oils have excellent benefits, such as all the fatty acids, which can help replace the lipids in your hair. There are not many hairstylists that agree with applying oils to hair; however, according to hairstylist, Jasmine Merinsky states “Similar to skin, we need oil to have healthy, strong hair. Oil lubricates the outer cuticle and strengthens the inner core by providing moisture to help keep the bonds strong.” 

In an article written in Forbes magazine, here’s what celebrity stylist, Mark Townsend had to say: “Every woman would benefit from using oils, even just once a week. You’ll see a major difference in your hair.” New York celebrity hairstylist, Takisha Sturdivant-Drew says “There are a few things to consider ― especially in regards to your hair type and texture ― before you start slathering it all over your locks. Hair oils are particularly good for individuals with dry or tight scalps that are lacking moisture. If your hair itself is also dry, she said applying hair oil can help “give it a nice, natural shine.” She added that she often uses oil on her clients, especially those with coarser, textured, or curly hair, to finish off the hairstyle. Bobby Eliot, a Los Angeles-based celebrity hairstylist, said about hair oils, “It can be used both as a nourishing treatment and as a styling tool to help smooth the hair.”

Sebum is enough.

Sebum (the natural oil from your scalp”> contains triglycerides and fatty acids (57%”>, wax esters (26%”>, squalene (12%”>, and cholesterol (4.5%”> (you may recognize these ingredients as those found in deep conditioners, some oil also duplicate these compositions as the best way of returning hair to its proper condition”>. Sebum’s main job is to condition and act as a barrier to prevent internal moisture loss; thus, it is the best conditioner for your hair and scalp…ever, but what happens when your scalp is not producing enough sebum, or it is not able to work its way down the hair strands, as in the case of those with curly hair? 

5 DIFFERENT WAYS TO USE HAIR OILS

Now that we’ve cleared up some common misconceptions about hair oils, it’s time to reveal some ways to use them.

Pre-Poo Treatment 

We’ve all put our hair through a lot weekly—everything from washing to coloring to styling can leave your strands feeling dry. Try using a hair oil as a pre-poo treatment to help hair retain moisturize before washing.

Tame Frizz in Humid Weather 

If your hair poofs up as soon as you step outside—you’re not alone. Frizzy hair plagues us all from time to time, but fortunately, hair oils can help control the frizz. Try applying one to two drops of oil to dry hair to help smooth frizz and flyways, concentrating on the lengths and ends. 

Lightweight Shine 

When you have fine hair, it’s easy to overdo it with styling products. Unfortunately, doing so can weigh the hair down and make it look excessively oily. Using a lightweight hair oil, instead of piling on products, can help add shine without weighing your hair down. Remember, a little goes a long way.

As a Finishing Touch 

You can use oils after your hair has fully dried to scrunch out the crunch or as a finishing touch after diffusing/air-drying your hair, but only use a tiny amount of oil. 

Detangling 

One of the best hair oils for detangling dry hair is Righteous Roots Oils Kids- it will literally melt knots and tangles away. Detangling tip: Start at the bottom of your hair and gently work your way up. If your hair doesn’t like a combination of oils, try grapeseed oil or avocado oil.

Image: @teymitownsend

It’s no secret that most of us want long hair fast, and many of us have seen the numerous hair growth supplements and products that have come out of the woodwork claiming their own version of hair growth enhancement and benefits. As each new brand breaks out into the market with its own proprietary formula, it becomes harder to separate fact from fiction. Supplements and products are not created equal; some give you results while others disappoint. With all the social media obsession surrounding hair growth products, the ability to navigate the marketplace is imperative, but here’s how to better understand how to support healthy and faster hair growth. 

Nutrients

Let’s start with the number one most important thing, diet. Hair nutrition is a vital part of any healthy hair regimen. The health of your hair begins from inside. Hair nutrition is, therefore, an essential part of understanding what to look for when it comes to hair growth.

The best way for you to improve the health of your hair is through vitamins and nutrients. The foods you eat and the supplements you take will make a difference. A formula rich in vitamins, nutrients, and minerals will nourish your hair and improve its health. We love Curls Blissful Lengths Liquid Hair Growth Vitamin

Hair is the fastest growing natural tissue in the human body: the average rate of growth is 0.5cm – 1.7cm per month, depending on a variety of factors. The speed of hair growth is based on genetics, gender, age, hormones. It may be reduced by nutrient deficiency (i.e., anorexia, anemia”> and hormonal fluctuations (i.e., menopause, polycystic ovaries, thyroid disease”>. Nutritionists confirm that people with certain nutritional deficiencies tend to have dry, stringy and dull hair, and sometimes experience hair loss. Fortunately, the latter can be restored once the deficiency is addressed.

You can boost your hair growth with natural ingredients. They are a great way to support hair growth. Natural vitamins, minerals, oils, essential oils, and botanicals will give you a ton of benefits. They are non-synthetic ingredients, directly derived from nature. Nature can grow by itself; it doesn’t need us. 

Castor Oil 

Castor Oil has frequently been used within many natural hair care regimens to grow, condition, and strengthen hair. 

Research by Patel & Dumancas: “Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial production show that the unique structure of the oil is made up of 90% ricinoleic acid, 4% linoleic acid, 3% oleic acid, 1% stearic acid and less than 1% linolenic acid.”

All of those acids are fatty acids. Fatty acids act as a humectant and moisturizer for the hair. Sourced from the castor bean (Ricinus communis”>, castor oil is rich in ricinoleic acid—a type of fatty acid found to fight inflammation. When applied to the scalp, it’s claimed to enhance the health of the hair follicles and, in turn, promote hair growth (as well as protect against hair loss”>. Still, some older research (including a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2003″> indicates that castor oil may improve the appearance of hair by increasing its luster.

Opt for organic, cold-pressed products because cold-pressed oils are higher-quality and more nutrient-rich than those processed at higher temperatures.

When it comes to using castor oil as a hair treatment, one of the most popular varieties is Jamaican black castor oil.

Essential Oils 

Essential oils include a variety of oils such as peppermint, tea tree, rosemary, eucalyptus oil, lemongrass, lavender, and much more. They are more commonly used to heal our ailments or make our rooms smell nice. However, they are great for hair growth, specifically our scalp. Our scalp is the powerhouse of our hair. 

According to a research titled “Peppermint Oil promotes Hair Growth without Toxic Signs” by Ji Young Oh, etc., the oil contains “menthol,” which is reported to have shown the anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial and antiseptic properties. These properties will penetrate the hair cells or follicles beneath your scalp to regenerate and fortify them. Thus, allowing them to fight off the free radicals that may be causing some of our scalp issues such as psoriasis, dandruff, etc. 

Note: Carrier oils are used to dilute the essential oils. ALWAYS dilute your essential oil with a carrier oil before application. Using essential oils undiluted can cause skin sensitivity and irritation. 

Aloe Vera

 According to the Aloe Vera Gel Research Review by Oliver Grundmann, BPharm, ms, Ph.D., aloe vera contains 99.1% water. Hence, it is an excellent source of hydration for our hair. Studies show that the Aloe Vera leaf also provides calcium and magnesium. Calcium is a vital mineral for the maintenance of the body; hence, it will benefit the overall health of our hair. Magnesium plays its part in promoting follicle hair growth. 

Do you have preferred ingredients for hair growth? Let us know below!  

By Verna Meachum · Updated October 6, 2019

Establishing and maintaining a proper moisture/protein balance in our hair is vital to the success of any hair care regimen, and it is key to fighting hair breakage. With every hair product you use, it will tip your hair one way or the other on the moisture/protein balance scale. Several things can cause hair breakage; however, the two more common causes of hair breakage are moisture and protein deficiency. Each type needs to be handled accordingly and evaluated on its own merits and may require a different approach and product selection strategy to bring it under control. 

Moisture and protein imbalances within the hair fiber can be brought on by improper product usage and regular manipulation (whether self-inflicted or by chemical processes”>. We must make informed hair product selections for making the moisture/protein balancing process to work; we need a multi-product strategy to address our hair’s needs. Knowing the moisture/protein nature of products will be extremely helpful when it’s time to rotate hair products in your regimen. Product rotation is required, and experimentation is vital to mastering it.

Image: Unsplash 

What Is Hygral Fatigue?

Hygral fatigue occurs when the hair swells from repeated and excessive swelling and deswelling of the hair cuticle when it takes on water, continually wetting hair before it is thoroughly dried, and or the overuse of rich deep conditioning treatments or moisturizing products. It is often associated with porosity issues. The process of hair expansion in wet conditions and contraction under dry conditions is both stressful and damaging to the hair fiber over time.

Hygral Fatigue earned its definition from the term “hygral expansion.” It is described as:

“Hygral expansion measurements of woven wool fabrics are influenced by the way in which wet fabric, after relaxation in water, is dried. If the wet fabric is dried directly in an oven, the hygral expansion values are relatively low, but if the fabric is allowed to dry under ambient conditions before oven drying, the values are relatively high (and closer to the “true” values”>. An interlaboratory trial conducted using thirteen commercial worsted fabrics includes a statistical analysis of different methods for determining the magnitude of hygral expansion. The fabric drying conditions have an important bearing on the magnitude of the dry dimension, and this, in turn, influences the hygral expansion value obtained.” (Hygral Expansion of Woven Wool Fabrics”>

There is a difference between hygral fatigue and over-conditioned hair— if you are not exposing your hair to extensive amounts of water, your hair is merely over-conditioned.

Here’s a further breakdown according to the nerdy curl girl:

1. Is hygral fatigue an interchangeable term for over-conditioning? No.
2. If you are over-conditioned, are you also experiencing hygral fatigue? No.
3. Is your hair also over-conditioned while it’s hygral fatigued? Yes! (Hence the confusion!”>

The nerdy curly explains that “People who are experiencing both may present with similar symptoms: the cause and reasonings are extremely different.”

“…perpetually moisturizing with water (a main moisturizing agent”> and conditioning agent while your hair is a fragile state. It’s often why you may notice hair breakage — especially in the nape area which is generally the area most likely to break due to friction. The excessive hydration has left your hair unable to soak in nutrients, weakened, and in need of being balanced.”

Before protein-deficiency breakage occurs, your hair will give you several warning signs. 

Signs Of Hygral Fatigue: 

• Hair will feel limp and have a gummy feeling when wet and will stretch considerably in this weak state before breaking (it will almost feel like your hair will disintegrate. This is an indication that the structural protein elements of the hair are deficient and can’t properly balance the elasticity level in the hair”>
• Excessive frizzing, hair is not retaining moisture and feels porous
• Curls do not curl or hold styles well
• No weight
• Over-conditioned
• In severe cases- breakage

How to Combat Hygral Fatigue & Keep Your Hair Balanced

You must learn to recognize the difference between moisture-based and protein-based imbalances, which will help you organize your hair care regimen more effectively when or if the issue arises. And understanding the difference between moisture/protein products and what they do for your hair is key to stopping breakage and achieving healthy hair.  The unique relationship that exists between moisture and protein within your hair is not merely a case of balancing one opposing force over the other. Instead, moisture and protein work together synergistically to produce healthy hair. 

A strong preference toward either moisture or protein, without sufficient balance, always results in breakage. Breakage is the result of the hair’s chemistry thrown off balance. Keeping the hair balanced between these two entities is crucial to maintain the condition of your hair. Achieving the proper moisture/protein balance involves using the right combination of moisture/protein products for your hair type at the RIGHT time. 

Beating Hygral fatigue is all about maintaining the innate protein structure of the hair shaft. If the protein structure is intact, the hair fiber will resist excessive expansion when wet. Ensuring a proper protein structure through timely protein conditioning treatment is essential.  Some proteins are better suited for reinforcing the hair’s infrastructure, while others are better at supporting the hair’s elasticity.

Note: The moisture/protein balance requirements and product selection will vary from hair to hair- If you choose products based on what someone else uses, your hair may not respond well because your hair is different from theirs. These regimens are also flexible. You can gauge the products you currently own by analyzing the ingredients list to determine where they would fit into your regimen.

Levels Of Breakage & Corrective Steps:

Protein-deficiency breakage is pretty simple to correct. As you follow these steps, you must pay attention to and evaluate your hair at each step because your hair’s condition may correct itself in the first one or two steps of the regimen; thus it may be unnecessary to follow the regimen from beginning to end. You may also need to adjust the conditioning times to reap the best benefits. 

Conditioning needs depends on your own level of breakage, prior treatments, specific product use, and level of hair porosity. I cannot stress enough that you need to learn how to read the cues your hair gives you. 

If your breakage is light, a protein-based conditioner or deep conditioner will do (this type of breakage is typically corrected with one protein deep conditioning session”>. You can also use light conditioners or leave-ins with protein.

Product Suggestions: Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing Conditioner, Aveda Remedy Conditioner, or the Curls Hair Solutions Silk Protein Deep Moisturizing Treatment. If your breakage is on the moderate side, a mild protein reconstructor like the Curl Junkie Repair Me, or Aphogee Two-Minute Reconstructor will work best (once or twice a week”>. If your hair is breaking a lot, you need an intense protein reconstructor treatment like the Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment or Affirm 5 in 1 Reconstructor.Researchers discovered that using polar oils such as coconut oil protects the fiber against hygral fatigue. Pre-poo oil treatment with coconut oil (use for a few hours up until overnight, depending on your hair”>. If your hair does not like coconut oil, try another penetrating oil like grapeseed or sunflower. Penetrating oils will cut back on “waterlogging.”

Product Suggestions: Sunny Isle Jamaican Organic Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, Cococare Natural Grapeseed Oil, Plant Therapy Sunflower Oil.

To support the deepest penetration of protein, you must first wash with a low-level sulfate shampoo or a clarifying shampoo to lift products from the hair.

Product Suggestions: Kinky Curly Come Clean or Suave Essentials Daily Clarifying Shampoo. Depending on the intensity level of breakage (mentioned above”>, apply a protein-rich deep conditioner/reconstructor/protein treatment as directed on the instructions. Rinse with cool water. As you feel your hair begins to strengthen, you can then start incorporating more moisturizing products.

The Nerdy Curly Girl. J TRI/Princeton, Princeton, N. Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2001 May-Jun;52(3″>:169-84. NCBI

By Verna Meachum · Updated September 17, 2019

Last week we talked about how to recover from damage by permanent color. Today we will discuss how to recover from bleach damage and heat styling tools. 

Image: Unsplash 

Damage from bleach

If you’ve gone from dark to light hair, you probably know all too well the damage that bleach can inflict on your hair.

Bleach is used to remove your natural hair color from each strand through the process of oxidation. Oxidation decolorizes the pigment in your hair shaft. It makes your hair swell, allowing the bleach to reach the inner part of the strand. It literally dissolves the melanin that gives your hair pigment.

If left on too long, bleach will turn your hair almost white. Very bleached hair often gains a ‘yellow’ tint, because keratin (the protein your hair is made of”> is naturally a pale yellow tone. 

Bleaching raises your hairs’ outer cuticle to allow the bleaching agent to fully penetrate. However, repeated bleaching can permanently raise the cuticle scales which allows rapid and continuous loss of moisture. 

This process can leave hair dry, brittle, fragile, inelastic, porous, and more prone to breakage and split ends.

Bleached and chemically treated hair tends to be porous and can, therefore, have a higher affinity to conditioning ingredients because they have a low isoelectric point (meaning a higher concentration of negative sites”>. 

How to recover and prevent further damage

• Bleach less frequently or not at all. There’s just no way around it. Bleach tends to damage your hair to some degree. The less you do it, the better.
• Professional colorist- Request a hair bond builder. These are formulated to protect hair from chemical damage and prevent further damage. Ex. Olaplex, Redken pH Bonder, Smartbond, and Karaal Baco powder lightener, just to name a few. 
• Try to use permanent color with low ammonia content (ex: Bacò by Kaaral “> 
• Add moisture by doing regular deep conditioning treatments. Before bleaching, pay extra attention to moisturizing your hair and avoid other damaging activities, like heat styling, for a couple of weeks.
• Use sun protection. The sun’s UV rays can harm your hair. Blonde and gray hair is especially susceptible to UV damage. 
• During the hot months, try wearing a wide-brimmed hat or hair wrap to protect your hair and scalp. You can also use a UV protection hair spray (Ouidad Sun Shield Sun & Sport Leave-In or Phyto Phytoplage Protective Sun Veil“> to protect hair that peeks out.

Other Product Suggestions include:

• Olaplex no. 3
• Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Leave-In Conditioner 
• Ouidad Curl Immersion Triple Threat Deep Conditioner 
• Deva Curl Melt into Moisture
• Deva Curl Deep Sea Repair 
• Briogeo Don’t Despair Repair!
• The Curl Junkie Repair Me
• Aphogee Two Minute Reconstructor
• Giovanni Direct Leave-In Conditioner 

Damage from using heat tools

Styling with heat can “cook” hair fibers and lead to raised cuticles and porous hair. If you’ve used heat styling tools on your hair for years, you might find that some sections have lost its elasticity, even after you wash your hair. 

When you use high heat too often, over a prolonged period of time, your hair can lose its ability to curl or revert back to its natural texture due to the loss of elasticity caused by heat damage. 

Hair that’s suffered considerable damage displays a few telltale signs: brittleness, loss of curl pattern, and breakage.

If this is the condition your hair’s in, you may be wondering if it’s possible to recover. 

Everyone’s case is different and the length of time for recovery will vary. Sometimes it is possible for the hair to regain some movement, and sometimes, you’ll have to grow your hair out. 

How to limit and prevent further damage

The first step to recovery is to clarify your hair to remove product buildup that can prevent moisture from getting into the hair.

Next, follow up with an application of a strengthening or conditioning mask or a combination of the two, depending on what your hair needs. Be careful not to overdo it—more isn’t always better, especially when it comes to protein treatments.

If you frequently use heat stylers, lower the temperature- the less heat you apply to your hair, the better. The reality is, if you continue using heat on your hair, especially while transitioning, you’re simply prolonging the process and setting yourself back.

The bottom line

Unless you have a time machine, you can’t undo hair damage once it’s done. But you can change your habits and give your hair some TLC.

If you aren’t seeing results after a few weeks, schedule an appointment with a professional stylist, where they can assess your damage and better advise you.

By Verna Meachum · Updated September 11, 2019

Image: Unsplash via Cortney White 

Ever seem like you were taking one step forward and two steps back when it comes to damage by chemical processes or heat styling tools with your hair? 

So how do you go from dry, brittle, damaged hair to smooth, shiny, healthy hair? The answer isn’t always a simple one. For the most part, hair damage is permanent because hair is actually a collection of dead cells, making them beyond repair. The only real cure is time, a pair of shears, and taking steps to prevent new damage.

But don’t despair, with proper hair care and a few targeted treatments, you can help restore the outer cuticle and begin to improve the look and feel of your hair.

Sometimes it’s all too clear how you ended up with damaged hair. Maybe you used a flat iron on high heat one too many times. Perhaps, a chemical process like bleach was too strong or left on your hair too long. Whatever caused the damage, keep reading to learn how to prevent further damage. Note: you may need to repeat several steps to recover from all of the damage. 

Damage from permanent color

Whether you dyed your hair a bright color or just tried a new shade dying your own hair can have consequences that last longer than the color. Chemical dyes can remove your hair’s natural moisture, quickly making smooth hair coarse to the touch. Unless your hair was light, to begin with, you may also have had to bleach your hair before applying the dye. 

How to avoid further damage

Experts recommend choosing a dye within three shades of your natural color and opting for shades that are darker rather than lighter to limit the damage. Unnatural colors are more difficult to maintain (trust me- hence my custom shade of red hair”> and have to be touched up more frequently.

• Dye less often. Extending the time between touch-ups can also help reduce damage. If possible, wait for 8 to 10 weeks or longer between dye jobs. This gives your hair time to recover between treatments.
• Less frequent washing
• Use shampoos formulated specifically for dyed/colored hair
• Please go to a professional. Coloring is often best left to the professionals. A professional colorist knows how to use the correct products to minimize damage.
• Try opting for demi- or semi-permanent. Chemical processes can change the hair so aggressively that the only fix is to grow it out and start over (sorry, but it’s just the truth”>. 

How to ease existing damage

Use oils. Oils have been shown by Trusted Source to help rehydrate the hair and smooth the cuticle. The key benefit? The oil’s molecules are small enough to penetrate the outer cuticle and hydrate from the inside out. It can also help replenish the protective oils on the outside of your hair.

Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners. These products are formulated with the proper pH to prevent the hair shaft from swelling. Your color will last longer and your hair will look and feel its best. 

Here are just a few suggestions for Color safe shampoos:

Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Shampoo 

Deva Curl low-poo Delight 

As I Am Curl Clarity Shampoo 

Evolve UltraShine Moisture Shampoo

Jessicurl Gentle Lather Shampoo 

Briogeo Don’t Despair Repair! Super Moisture Shampoo

The Mane Choice Easy on the Curls Detangling Shampoo

Briogeo Curl Charisma Rice Amino + Avocado Hydrating Shampoo 

Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Shampoo 

As I Am Coconut Cowash

Product Suggestions for Color Safe Conditioners:

Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Conditioner 

Mielle Organics Mongongo Oil Hydrating Conditioner

Mop Top Citrus Medley Light Conditioner 

Jessicurl Too Shea! Extra Moisturizing Conditioner

Curl Junkie Beauticurls Strengthening Hair Conditioner

Hair oil suggestions: 

Sunny Isle Jamaican Organic Extra Virgin Coconut Oil

Difeel Premium Coconut Oil

Righteous Roots Oil

Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners. These products are formulated with the proper pH to prevent the hair shaft from swelling. Your color will last longer and your hair will look and feel its best.

Next week we’ll continue with the series and talk about damage from bleach and heat styling tools, plus how to recover. Stay tuned.