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What My Daughter Has Taught Me About Self Acceptance

Because she is still so open with me, I can address certain issues before they get a chance to fester.

photo courtesy of @modelaliviab

There is no easy way to address this topic because there are still many of adults struggling to accept their own hair. Maybe we secretly wish we could change our texture or that our hair was longer. The fact is, self acceptance is always a work in progress., and there will always be something about ourselves that we wish we could change. However, as parents, we must take care to ensure that we do not pass down those insecurities to our children. The one thing I am sure of is a child’s ability to sense things that perhaps we might not have even admitted to ourselves yet. In helping our kids to love themselves and their hair, we can also achieve an enhanced sense of self-acceptance.

What we realize as mothers

After my daughter was born, I became more philosophical. I had this feeling of accomplishment–she was my gift to the world and if I never did anything else or achieved anything more, she was enough. One day I realized that I needed to be myself in order for my daughter to learn to love herself. I knew I could not help her love her hair if she saw me constantly straightening my own. The decision to be an example came in handy in helping her accept herself, starting with her hair.

Here in Canada, most of my daughter’s classmates are white. The minute she started school, it affected the way she viewed herself. Thankfully, she is still at a stage in which she tells me everything, including all of her current crushes which is something I did not think I had to worry about with a six-year-old, by the way. Because she is still so open with me, I can address certain issues before they get a chance to fester. I also try to make a point of listening to her even when I am tired or busy or just in need of a few minutes of silence, because I never want her to feel as though she can’t come to me with anything that is on her mind.

The conversation starts at a young age

You would not believe how often these little kids discuss things like hair. Oftentimes, my daughter comes home and out of nowhere says something like, “Mom, you know I’m not the only one with this type of hair in class, right?” Or sometimes, she says, “Mom, I told my friend’s about Kezia and they asked if she has the same hair as me and I said, ‘of course not!’” Kezia is a one-year-old girl with Jamaican parents that my daughter is absolutely obsessed with. Six-year-old kids are having conversations in school and hair type is a central focus for them–go figure!

Addressing their desire for straight hair

A few weeks ago, she said, “Mom, I want my hair to be straight” and I said to her that her hair is like magic. I told her that her hair could be straight, or it could be curly. I reminded her of all the styles we could do with her hair and how some of her straight-haired friends could not do the same styles.

I remember saying, “You know, we could straighten your hair and it would like theirs, but there is no anyway for their hair to look like yours. Your hair is special.” She perked up immediately and said “Yeah, you’re right!” 

I know the issue will come up again. It probably will never really go away because just like we were–and still are–bombarded with the Eurocentric ideal of beauty, our kids are too. I anticipate it will be much worse for her because I grew up in Jamaica where most of the kids looked like me, and while we did have our ‘good hair’ issues, my type 4 natural hair was considered the norm and not the exception.

Here, my daughter is the exception and she knows it.

The key is for me to help her feel exceptional. I do not have all the answers, but I know there are simple things that can be done to help your own kids: encourage them to build their self-love by appreciating what is in the mirror. Repeat these things in the morning or even before bed at night. However the conversation gets started, we cannot let our little girls down–we should help them feel beautiful. Although protective styling is important, creating styles that are fun and playful and make them feel especially positive about their hair is equally important.

Try these affirmations

Below are some simple, short and sweet affirmations that can be easily remembered by young kids. Encourage them to sing these affirmations, write them down in a journal, and live them. They may be short, but the message and power of these words runs deep, so women of all ages can benefit from speaking these.

  1. I love myself.

  2. I love my hair.

  3. I am unique and my hair is too.

  4. Everyone is beautiful in their own way.

  5. Healthy hair is good hair and my hair is healthy.

  6. God made me and that makes me perfect because God doesn’t make mistakes.

How do you encourage your little one to love their naturally curly and coily hair?

Let us know in the comment section below on Facebook.

The Hierarchy of Natural Hair: Are Locs Counted Out?
 The fear of being accepted outweighs the desire of being true to who we really are. 

In a recent article with Madame Noire, YouTuber Taren Guy addressed some of the scrutiny she has faced surrounding her new natural hair journey, freeform locs. While those of us who wear locs can probably relate to her experience, it begs the question:

Why do we think so lowly of locs?

When I was about 20 years old, I told my mom I wanted to loc my hair. My relaxed hair was always thick and at least shoulder length or longer; it was healthy-looking. My mom loved it, so she could not understand why I would want to get locs and even though I was old enough to decide for myself, I deferred to her opinion and forgot about getting locs.

Fast forward to a year or two later and my mom had started loc’ing her hair. Hers now extend down to the middle of her back and every now and again, I remind her of her not wanting me to get the hairstyle she now has made a lifelong commitment to. She has never been able to give me a reason for not wanting me to get locs beyond that my hair was nice as it was.

Many people have biases against locs that they themselves may not understand.

The idea that locs are unkempt and dirty is baseless and easily overcome, and initial reactions can be a superficial explanation for something that is, apparently, deeper than we can even understand.

In the article written by Ashley Monae, Guy outlined some of the negative comments she received about her decision to loc her hair, such as:

“I thought you found Jesus.”

“Oh no, you messed up your hair!”

“Hair isn’t that deep.”

“Why would you loc that beautiful hair.”

“You’re getting weird, I’m unsubscribing.”

Now why on earth would getting locs be viewed as messing up your hair? What is so bad about locs and why would hair be too beautiful for locs? Why do so many of us act as though locs are some kind of inferior hair style befitting only the kinkiest hair types?

Guy says she had started to feel as though her afro was something she was hiding behind, and that she would never attend a social event with her hair any other way. I completely understand this feeling. As someone who has any kind of voice in the community, we start making decisions to make others happy rather than ourselves. You do not want to let anyone down, so you start conforming to the expectations of others. This is no different that conforming to society’s Eurocentric ideas of beauty. The fear of being accepted outweighs the desire to be true to who we really are.

Sometimes, as members of the natural hair community, we forget why we returned to natural in the first place.

We forget to be inclusive and welcoming. We want to be seen as unique individuals, but reinforce the notions that there is only one way to be accepted or only one way to be beautiful. Guy has said that a scheduled appearance at a hair event was cancelled due to her hair change because, her new style didn’t “fit the demo and audience of the attendees’ and won’t sit well with sponsors.”

Not only is this sad and disappointing, but it points out that despite how far we’ve come, we still have so much farther to go. We each must play our part to stamp out the discriminatory practices that come so naturally to us as mere mortals. There is no one way to be natural. There is no one path to self acceptance and self love. Let us not forget that.

7 Facial Hair Hotties to Follow Today

While facial hair is not every woman’s cup of tea, many of us curlies cannot resist a bearded babe when we see one.

Hate it or love it, one thing we can all agree on is that these natural men wear their facial hair quite well. Check out this list of natural men who rock their facial hair like no one else.

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@michaelbjordan

Michael is a rising star with a bright smile and dapper style. Keep up with the Black Panther and Creed star on social media.

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A photo posted by @charlesmichaeld on

@charlesmichaeld

If you have a thing for vampires, Charles Michael Davis is your guy. He plays a vampire on The Originals, and has also appeared on BET’s The Game, Grey’s Anatomy, That’s So Raven and Switched At Birth. He definitely deserves more love and your follow.

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@themichaelealy

Michael Ealy has eyes that possess the magical ability to take our breath away. This man has inspired many crushes, young and old–let him inspire you to follow.

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A photo posted by Nkrumah (@kxngcrwn”> on  

@kxngcrwn

Any man who has stated his life goal is to change the way the world views black women definitely deserves your follow. Keep up with the endeavors of the CRWN Magazine co-founder, Nkrumah Farrar.

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@lukasabbat 

We look at Mr. Fallback’s hair with longing. And bonus: the model has some of the hottest celeb friends.

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A photo posted by Idris Elba (@idriselba”> on

@idriselba

Who needs an excuse to look at photos of Idris, or listen to him speak with that amazing British accent, or watch him breathe for that matter? Follow the Order of the British Empire for Services in Drama award recipient. 

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@felipmonteiro

Warning: Felipe’s pics will give you total hair envy. This model and blogger has completely dedicated his platform to empowering other black bearded men around him.

3 Reasons We’re Watching Issa Rae’s Insecure On October 9th
Finally, we have a TV show depicting everyday black women in everyday relatable life situations with humor–without the clichés. That TV show is HBO’s Insecure featuring Issa Rae, a black woman who rocks her TWA in all her awkward glory.
issa rae insecure
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANNE MARIE FOX/HBO
The first season of Insecure will feature eight episodes, the first of which is already available on HBO NOW, HBO GO and HBO On Demand, and hits our television screens this Sunday, October 10. It highlights the life of two modern, black women who are friends living their lives and dealing with all their, for lack of a better word, insecurities and issues. 

If you were unaware who Issa Rae is, you still have time to get to know and appreciate her humor and her work before Insecure goes into full swing. Here are three reasons why we will be watching and why you should be watching, too.

1. Issa is young, gifted and black

That’s enough of a reason because there just aren’t enough programs that feature black females in a leading role. Little black girls and a lot of us grown up black girls need to see ourselves represented on TV and being portrayed as actual human beings, instead of stereotypes. HBO is as mainstream as it gets and black talent needs to be celebrated in the mainstream. When we support these programs we encourage the powers that be to continue to feature black women in prominent rules and give other black talent opportunities to thrive.

We have been asking for diversity and for representation. Let’s show them that we meant it and put our money and support where our mouth is.

2. Issa is funny

Issa was named one of Rolling Stone’s 23 funniest people in America, and was also on Forbes’ 30 Under 30 of 2015. Issa has worked hard for her shot and we get to benefit from her comedic chops. Besides, who are we to disagree with Forbes?

3. Issa is natural

Though ‘natural’ hair is being portrayed more often in the media today, short natural hair is still almost non-existent in mainstream entertainment, as many brands would still rather use wig-wearing models instead of ones who rock their real length and texture.

Issa looks like herself. She looks like us, and she looks like you or best friend or cousin did when she did her first big chop or even her third. It takes courage to present your authentic self to a world that still holds on to European standards of beauty. Her courage will encourage many.

Will you set your alarm with us?

Mark you calendar for Sunday night and invite your friends over for a viewing party. Whatever you do, let’s ensure we support our own. Catch Insecure on HBO, Sundays this fall at 9pm.

A special message from Issa Rae

How Chinese Schools Are Fighting Back Against Trendy Hairstyles
photo courtesy of Gaocheng News

How far is too far?

Schools in The People’s Republic of China are showing students they mean business. It has hired barbers to stand guard against trendy hairstyles in an effort to cut down these ‘hairy’ beasts in them name of preventing “negative social influence.” Got curly or blonde hair? You’ll need a doctor’s note to prove it or else it is getting chopped. Fashion-conscious Chinese students are being made to toe the line and adhere to a policy that forces girls to wear their hair longer than just below their ears while boys should sport either flat tops or crew cuts.

While I understand and appreciate the need to prevent distractions in learning environments, the idea of everyone being required to look the same is really freaking me out.

Modern day Chinese students are being heavily influenced by foreign hairstyles while exercising their teenage right to dye and fry their hair just like any other disastrous teenage rite of passage. Schools are having none of it; they don’t even care that attesting to a student’s legally blonde-ness or curly hair card is probably not the most productive use of a doctor’s time. They want their students to show up with the doctor’s note as proof of their hair’s authenticity. The schools are so committed to avoiding the dangers of trendy hairstyles that if a student cannot afford a barber, one will be appointed to them. Consider it a hair-ing aid, if you will.

One school released the following statement through the Shaanxi News Website:

“A small number of students were found to be affected by the negative social influence of dyed and permed hair, which affects their comprehensive development. In order to create a positive and healthy learning environment for students, the school has ruled that boys should have crew cuts and girls should grow hair down to the ear, to ensure they can focus on their studies.

The rules at Xiamen Industrial and Commercial Tourism College, in China’s south-eastern Fujian province, say boys’ [sic] should have hair no longer than six millimetres in length, while girls are banned from having a fringe.”

Is there someone actually responsible for walking around and measuring the length of boys’ hair? And 6 mm? Seriously? How is a fringe distracting?

Students of the school are up in arms about the rules.

Some of them are even refusing to go to school or college in order to keep their trendy hairstyles. This strict set of rules is clearly having a negative social impact. Kids will be kids; they will try to explore and push boundaries, as growth and realization is a normal part of the developmental process. Things are never more appealing than when they are forbidden– kids are likely to try a trendy hairstyle once, hate it, and never try it again.

As the mother of a little girl with beautiful kinky hair, I’m not sure that I can support a school deciding to give my child a haircut. I certainly wouldn’t appreciate if her school took it upon themselves to ‘groom’ my child’s hair to suit their rules. I would much rather be called first, then asked to take my child home and make whatever decisions I thought were in the best interest of my child. Here in the west, we are used to seeing black people being disadvantaged by these hairstyling rules and now, instead of racism, we see ageism playing a role in such an extreme reaction to trendy hairstyles. Perhaps, what the schools are really fighting is a perceived negative social influence of the west.

What are your thoughts?

Is the school taking it too far? Let us know in the comment section below.

5 Fall Deep Conditioners (When You Live In A Place With No Seasons)
photo courtesy of m-imagephotography – Getty Images

Growing up in a tropical paradise, there weren’t really any seasons to speak of–unless you were thinking about hurricane, rainy, or dry season. Sure, there were differences in the length of the days and nights but for the most part, Jamaican trees would retain their green leaves. Now I live in Canada, and Winnipeg doesn’t have much of one, either.

It’s not called Winterpeg for nothing; winter lasts about 7 months here give or take. But regardless of the very low temperatures, fall is beautiful. The colors are nothing short of breathtaking and though I’m not much for the scent or taste of pumpkin and cinnamon when it comes to my food, I’m always game for trying them in my hair products. Get into the Fall spirit with these five deep conditioners.

my honeychild olive you deep conditioner

MYHoneyChild Olive You Deep Conditioner

After the heat of summer, MYHoneyChild Olive You Deep Conditioner is the perfect deep conditioner to fight dryness and restore moisture to even the most dehydrated strands. This deep conditioner contains olive oil which will improve the elasticity of the hair, nourish the scalp and condition the hair. 

Darcy

Darcy’s Botanicals Pumpkin Seed Moisturizing Conditioner

Doesn’t the name Darcy’s Botanicals Pumpkin Seed Moisturizing Conditioner just scream Fall? This moisturizing conditioner will soften and moisturize your hair with the pure goodness of pumpkin seed oil. This miracle ingredient contains fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, proteins and antioxidants–all of which provide a well-nourished hair and scalp.

Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner

Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner

One of my absolute favorite natural hair brands, the products smell like a heavenly bakery. The deep conditioner’s performance is amazing. Every whiff fills me with feelings of comfort and satisfaction. Oyin Honey-Hemp Conditioner is no exception. The labelling of this product also reminds me of the orange color many leaves have in the fall. Read about the benefits of honey including its ability to add moisture and improve the shine of the hair as well as controlling frizz.

Alikay Naturals Honey And Sage Deep Conditioner

Alikay Naturals Honey And Sage Deep Conditioner

A quick scan of the ingredients of the Honey and Sage Deep Conditioner will inform you that this product contains caramel, too. Yummy! Sage is an underground hit with vegan naturals because of the herb’s antibacterial properties. It is great for treating itchy scalp and dandruff. The astringent properties of sage also make it great for removing product buildup.

As I Am Hydration Elation Intensive Conditioner

As I Am Hydration Elation Intensive Conditioner

The Elation Intensive Conditioner contains ingredients popular in the naturallycurly community–like coconut oil and shea butter–as well as not so popular ones like sugarcane and apple extracts, on trend with the autumn season. If your curls are color-treated, this product strengthens and conditions, while fighting frizz and adding shine to dull hair.

Which products are you celebrating Fall with?

Do you know how often you should be deep conditioning? Find out here.

If you have fine hair, this is how our writer Sandra deep conditions her fine, Type 3a curls.

Get the most out of your deep conditioner, know the Dos and Don’ts of Deep Conditioning.

Like what you see? For more articles like this, sign up for our newsletter!

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An Open Letter to the Pretoria School Girls
The same adults who have been entrusted with the task of helping you grow and thrive have tirelessly attempted to tear you down. Do not let them.
photo courtesy of @stopracismPHSG

Dear Pretoria School Girls,

Like many others around the world, I have been following your story. After hearing your complaints, I saw your bravery in speaking out and I have two words:

You rock!

I applaud you for speaking up and letting it be known that you’ve had enough and will no longer be quiet in the face of injustice. I applaud you for letting it be known that you will not be made to feel that it is wrong to be yourself or embrace your cultural roots. I applaud you for using the internet to call attention to an issue that needs to be addressed home and abroad.

There will be many who will raise their voices against you.

Some of the voices will be people who are privileged enough to have never been in a position of encountering discrimination. Other words will spoken from people who look just like you. Although this may come as a surprise, it only means that they have been conditioned to think as their oppressors. They want you to think that you are not good enough, you are not cute enough, or you are not smart enough. The same adults who have been entrusted with the task of helping you grow and thrive have tirelessly attempted to tear you down. Do not let them.

Some will say this is not about race but discipline and preparing you for life in the world of work.

We know this is not true. When did spending your downtime speaking to friends in your native tongue become an ‘indicator of indiscipline’? Why is it wrong if your hair hides your hair tie or ponytail holder? That is what your hair does, naturally.

Continue to be strong; the process is not over.

Your courage will help embolden other young, black women to speak up and to be strong in the face of adversity. Your protest has done much to reignite and in some cases initiate the discussion about race in South Africa and everywhere because we know that an attack on black hair is about more than hair. You are beautiful. Black is beautiful. And being black should not subject you to naming calling, insults and unfair treatment. You are no less than anyone else.

To those who would want to accuse you of crying wolf, of playing the victim, or of playing the race card, I include this quote from your headmistress:

“We do not have a problem with hairstyles,” Anthea Cereseto, the school’s headmistress, said in an email. “We believe the hair issue is the superficial manifestation of something deeper in the country which needs to be dealt with.” 

Clearly, this issue goes beyond hair.

It is clear that there is something wrong but because of your bravery, a necessary discussion has begun. You are inspirational leaders. This is how you take action and this is how you effect change. Keep moving forward because the journey will be long.

-Vanessa

How Natural Is Your "Natural" Hair Color?
pictured: talia_music

The natural hair community is a powerful one.

One of those reasons is the fact that we put our money where our mouth is. We want to keep our hair healthy and strong. We are willing to spend money on a product that claims to be of high quality. I recently read an article titled, How Natural Are ‘Natural’ Hair Dyes? and I couldn’t help but wonder.

Why do companies believe that it’s acceptable to include minuscule amounts of coconut (or some other”> oil in their products and then slap the natural label on it?

Perhaps they truly think no one will notice their attempt in increasing revenues by taking advantage of consumers’ desire to live healthier lives.

According to Grand View Research, “The global organic personal care market was worth over $8 billion in 2013…North America generated 35% of the revenue share that year, analysts found. They estimate that the sector will reach $20 billion by 2020.”

It seems as though the only green some manufacturers are interested in is money.

Mentioned in the article are the dyes found in two popular brands sold at Whole Foods: Naturtint and Herbatint. In addition, listed were other ‘green’ products by beauty brands Clairol Natural Instincts and SheaMoisture. Each ingredient list was evaluated to find out if the featured ingredients–coconut oil, olive oil and shea butter–were as natural as the packaging has proclaimed.

The evaluators concluded that most of the ingredients listed had been “heavily processed from their original form,” meaning that even if the ingredients started out being natural, they no longer were. All four of the hair dyes reviewed contained at least one synthetic material while all four shared the same one: Etidronic acid.

Etidronic acid is an ingredient found in some cleaning agents (soaps and shampoos”>. “To deposit color onto the hair, you have to have peroxide, and you’ll also have to have an alkalizer,” said Sierveld (Principal researcher, Clairol Research & Development”> “You have to have those two ingredients, which are very far from being natural.”

All the coconut oil or shea butter in the world won’t change that. Focusing on these ingredients only distract from the fact that dyeing the hair is a harsh chemical process that requires the use of harsh chemicals. Hair dyes may no longer contain ammonia, but that doesn’t mean they are suddenly totally safe, either. Being gentler than they were in the past does not make modern day formulations safe, either. The comparison is relative, not absolute.

Scientists have raised concerns about the practice of companies using ‘natural’ to mislead consumers about the ingredients in their products.

However, regulators such as the FDA, while acknowledging the risk to consumers when products are incorrectly (and even correctly”> labelled as natural seem hesitant to act. What’s more, they seem more eager to point out that being from a plant doesn’t make a product safe than they are about punishing companies that lie. “A cosmetic manufacturer may use any ingredient or raw material,” says the FDA, “and market the final product without government approval.” Scary, isn’t it?

We are on our own and we must look out for our own interests by ensuring we are educated on what makes a product natural or organic. We must read the ingredient list of every product we spend our hard earned money on. If we make reviewing the ingredient lists mandatory, then it will become second nature to us and we would be less likely to feel mislead about the actual nature of the products we buy. Even the products we instinctively think are healthy may not be so and this goes as much for food items as it does for personal care and beauty items. We must keep in mind that the ‘natural’ label does not guarantee our safety.

Having companies try to deceive by claiming their synthetic products are natural will only serve to complicate the issue and unfortunately, we pretty much left to figure it all out by ourselves.

THIS Is Why Beauty Brands Use Food To Entice You

camille rose naturals aloe whipped butter gel

Ever wondered why so many of your favorite products are named after food? From SheaMoisture’s Curl Enhancing Smoothie to Kinky Curly’s Curling Custard to Camille Rose’s Aloe Whipped Butter Gel, and all the butters, jellies, milks, soufflés and puddings in between, it seems you can’t read the name of a product for naturally curly hair without being reminded of food. Add to that the fact that many of these products smell like tropical fruits, chocolate, baked goods or something equally yummy, it does make you wonder why companies seem to want us to associate their beauty products with food.

To shed some light on the subject, I reached out to fellow curly girl, Dr. L . Vasquez, who has years of experience in the cosmetics industry and is currently focused on scientific communications and science education awareness for young girls.

Why do personal care product companies use food names?

“To answer that question we need to consider the very common, yet understudied practice of Food Imitating Products, which is basically the use of food names or appearances to identify hair products. According to Basso et al., when presented with these products, consumers are more likely to think automatically and positively about food than about an unpleasant chore, in our case wash day.”

Naming beauty products after food is not unique to natural hair products but it does seem to be more prevalent within this sub group.  Another group of products that use food names to great effect is lipsticks. In fact, a study entitled Truly Toffee and Raisin Hell: A Textual Analysis of Lipstick Names concluded that most lipsticks are named after food, sex, beverages or romance. The researcher Debra Merskin, states that “names draw upon the imagination first, then memory.” This statement echoes those of Basso et al., as referenced above by Dr. Vasquez. Basically food names are associated with good things and are easily referenced by our imaginations and our memory.

Dr. Vasquez explains that naming products after food may cause consumers to forget that these products are made of chemicals and think of them as inherently safe.

Dr. Vasquez explains that naming products after food may cause consumers to forget that these products are made of chemicals and think of them as inherently safe.

“To put it in context of the modern day, we are seeing changes in consumer behaviors towards more ‘natural’ products, so it is only logical that certain social communication aspects of advertising tend towards that direction as well – and what feels more natural than food?” On the downside, there have been requests from members of the scientific community to regulate this practice because it has created a false sense of safety for the consumer, portraying the product as more “natural” than “chemical,” and by association safer. However, in reality all matter is made of chemicals and whether something is naturally harvested or synthetically created does not tell us how safe a product actually is. Food is a safe place for most people and food terminology is universal and easily understood by everyone.

Is there a connection between the name and the appearance?

“That depends on the product, but there should be” Dr. Vasquez says. “If a product cannot deliver in its physical description, as a consumer I would feel hard pressed to trust that brand. If a hair milk is advertised, the consistency should be more fluid, if it is a pudding, it should be less fluid. The consistency of a product will change the results for the end user, so I think it is important that it at least makes sense for the buyer.”

Interested in delving further into this topic? Check out the references below and sound off in the comments section. Also check out Dr.  Vasquez’s blog,  The Hair Lab and follow her on Instagram.


References

Why People Drink Shampoo? Food Imitating Products Are Fooling Brains and Endangering Consumers for Marketing Purposes

Frédéric Basso , Philippe Robert-Demontrond, Maryvonne Hayek, Jean-Luc Anton, Bruno Nazarian, Muriel Roth, Olivier Oullier

Published: September 10, 2014http://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0100368

Social Communication in Advertising: Consumption in the mediated marketplace

William Leiss, Stephen Kline, Sut Jally, Jacqueline Botterill

Are You Properly Caring For Your Thinning Hair?
Since our hair is a big part of our identities, it can be quite unnerving when hair loss rears its ugly head (no pun intended”>.
photo courtesy of Vladmax – Getty Images

Whether your hair fall is short or long term, it can be quite the unpleasant experience–to say the least. Watching your hair thin all over or having it fall out in clumps is not easy. There is the worry associated with wondering if something is seriously wrong with your head and the concerns about how the hair loss will affect your appearance.

Thirty million American women are affected by hair loss and the general consensus among experts is that genes, aging and hormonal changes play a role, according to medical professionals at WebMD. There are also lifestyle factors such as stress and diet that can cause hair loss in addition to some thirty medical conditions.

While we search for the solutions to restore our hair, we also want to keep the hair we still have healthy and vibrant. Minimizing the sparse, thinning look is a priority when experiencing hair loss. We need our hair to have the appearance of volume and fullness which means using products that are lightweight enough to not weigh the hair down but potent enough to give hair all the moisture it needs.

According to Richard J. Moskowitz, MD, Dermatologist in Private Practice, Mineola, NY for MedlinePlus, the two main signs of hair loss are a general all-over thinning of the hair or specifically at the front of the head. The top of the scalp and the crown area are usually affected; in such cases, your center part will be wider than it was previously, although the hairline usually remains in tact.

The washing process is the beginning of creating the appearance of volume in thinning hair.

Using products to strengthen and condition without adding weight is important.

  1. Apply a moisturizing leave-in conditioner following your cleansing routine. Concentrate application on the ends of your hair–which are usually the driest–and apply them with a light hand to your roots.
  2. Use the smallest amount of product necessary. Avoid adding too much weight to the hair and causing product build-up. Look for products that are lightweight, volumizing and specifically designed to aid thinning hair and promote regrowth, strength and scalp health. 

Thinning naturals should use these products

Shampoos and conditioners

Moisturizers and leave-ins

Stylers

Treatments

If you think you may be experiencing hair fall or are concerned your center part as widened, try examining photos over time, just to be sure. Sometimes we can miss things that come on gradually, until of course, it becomes too big an issue to ignore. The quicker you notice your hair loss, the sooner you can have the problem resolved.

Read more: Did you know this food item is often used as a natural remedy for thinning edges?

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Do You Need a Scalp Serum?
Are you experiencing more hair fall than you think is normal? Consider using a regrowth serum, intended to restore hair growth.

Though men suffer most from hair loss according to doctors at WebMD, women in their fifties and sixties suffer from hair fall. There are many potential causes of hair loss and it often takes time to find the cause for each particular case since it may not always be immediately obvious.

How hair fall happens

Hair growth is controlled by a cycle. When this cycle is interrupted or disturbed, hair fall may result. Medication, illness, infection and chemicals are some potential disruptors. At any given time in the hair’s growth cycle, the majority of the hair on the head–approximately 90%–is in the growth stage. Normal shedding can number as little as 50 to 150 strands per day. When shedding becomes excessive, the signs of hair fall become more noticeable: your part seems wider and your ponytail is thinner as a result. You may also notice that your scalp is more visible than it previously was in the past, which is another sign of female androgenetic alopecia, more commonly known as female pattern hair loss.

Common conditions including anemia, pregnancy, stress, psoriasis, thyroid disorders, polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS”> and seborrheic dermatitis can cause hair fall. There is also a link between menopause and hair loss. Too much vitamin A or rapid and dramatic weight loss may also result in hair loss. Hair loss may also be hereditary, but combatting hair loss, no matter the cause, will always involve ensuring that your diet is well balanced and contains all the necessary vitamins, minerals and protein required to grow healthy hair.

How to naturally prevent hair fall

In addition to the foundation of a healthy diet, it is important to drink plenty of water and remain active. Physical activity and exercise increases blood flow, which improves circulation. Scalp massages are also great for helping to regrow hair, especially when combined with beneficial products, including natural carrier and essential oils and hair regrowth serums.

Do you need a hair serum?

Some hair serums can be quite expensive due to the potency of their ingredients. Because only small amounts are needed for each application, this type of product tends to last a long time, providing value for your money. Furthermore, since our appearance is so important to us and hair is such a huge part of our appearance, the cost of most serums is a small price to pay if hair restoration is important to our overall self-confidence. Below are a few scalp serums that have been proven to be effective in restoring women’s hair fall.

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How did you overcome hair fall?

Tell us below or on the NaturallyCurly FB page

Read how massaging your scalp with oil can help.

Darcy’s Botanicals Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Oil conditions and restores. Have you tried it?

Natural Hair Is "Extreme, Distracting" According to a Louisiana High School’s Dress Code
Hair styles that are extreme, distracting, or attention getting will not be permitted. No dreadlocks, cornrows, twists, mohawks and no jewelry will be worn in hair…
Butler High School
louisiana butler high school natural hair policy
PHOTO BY mihailomilovanovic — GETTY IMAGES

Another day, another arguably racist school policy that specifically discriminates against wearing natural hair.

If you have been dialed into the trending topics of the last week, you heard about the latest instance of a school policy forbidding styles popular amongst students with curly and coily-textured hair.

The recently updated dress code for Butler High School in Louisiana states that “hair styles that are extreme, distracting, or attention getting will not be permitted. No dreadlocks, cornrows, twists, mohawks and no jewelry will be worn in hair.”

In its new policy, Butler High School targets personal grooming. Not surprisingly, the system targets the banning of natural hair and black hairstyles in particular. I have no doubt that we all appreciate that in an educational institution, distractions are to be minimized in order to facilitate learning. However, I do not find a legitimate reason to suppose that dreadlocks, twists, mohawks and cornrows are inherently distractingBanning natural hairstyles significantly reduces the hairstyling options for students with natural hair.

With the long list of similar incidences and school policies that have received their own share of disapprobation in recent months, I would think that someone would have nipped this issue in the bud long before it was released to unsuspecting parents.

To think that a classmate or parent had no choice but to take to Twitter to grab the public’s attention in order for the policy to be temporarily suspended is sad and shows how little progress has been made on the subject. Can we really consider the policy’s temporary suspension a victory when a group came together with the shared belief that it was appropriate and necessary to implement in the first place?

Saying hair must be clean and neat at all times before highlighting natural hairstyles is offensive. Furthermore, neat for curly hair types is not the same as neat for those with straight hair. Our hair types just are not the same and do not behave in the same way. It is clear that there is an inherent bias against black hair and black hairstyles. Typically, issues like this arise when all parties concerned are not represented. I have no idea how this policy came into being and whether there were any black persons involved in the process. I do know that there are plenty of blacks who also share the view that dreadlocks are dirty and natural hair is unkempt, unprofessional and unclean.

As a former educator at a school in a predominantly black nation, I have heard fellow educators–with relaxed hair, no less–speak of natural hair in the most unflattering terms. If your own won’t look out for you, how can someone else be expected to? It just underscores the efficacy of the campaign that has been going on for hundreds of years that has resulted in blacks hating ourselves, how we look and the texture of their hair. This is why bleaching creams and relaxers were so popular for many generations. Now that black people have started embracing their true heritage, we are being specifically targeted for discrimination.

The battle is on to get us to return to the days of feeling bad about who we are, naturally. However, we must remain vigilant and not feel defeated. Our children need to know that they are beautiful just the way they are. They should not feel like they are less than anyone else because they are black or have dreadlocks, twists and cornrows.

To be Young, Gifted and Black. Oh, what a lovely precious dream.

What are your thoughts?

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5 Products Your Hair Type DOESN’T Need

If there is one thing to remember as a curly curl, it’s that “each head of hair is unique.” Sometimes, there are things that shouldn’t work but do and at other times, things that should work never do. Go figure.

There’s no single solution or fail-safe when it comes to curly hair care.

Your texture is in charge and you do as it says–or deal with the consequences. Here’s a brief look at some products you really should not use.

1. Heavy oils (like castor oil”>

Who shouldn’t use them?

  • Fine-haired naturalistas

Why?

Fine-haired curlies have strands that are easily weighed down. This makes lightweight products a fine haired curly girl’s best friend. Heavy oils such as castor oil will weigh the hair down and cause it to look stringy and greasy. You don’t have to completely abstain from using castor oil, however, mixing it with light oils, such as sweet almond oil, argan oil or jojoba oil is a great way to get the benefits of castor oil without the weight.

2. Protein packed conditioners

Who shouldn’t use them?

Diligent co-washers

Why?

Using protein-packed conditioners may result in protein overload, causing your texture to feel dry and brittle. Healthy hair has the right protein and moisture balance. If your conditioner uses the terms ‘fortifying’ or ‘strengthening’ in the description, there is a good chance that protein overload will result if you consistently use it as a cowash.

3. Silicones

Who shouldn’t use them?

Infrequent washers and long term protective stylers.

Why?

Silicones are great for many things, including providing slip and adding shine to the hair. Silicones are also great at sealing the hair shaft by coating the strands and creating a pretty impenetrable barrier. Though water soluble silicones allow us to enjoy the benefits of silicones without needing harsh silicones to remove them, they too will result in build-up and prevent hair being moisturised if they are not rinsed away often. If you go many weeks without washing your hair–or if it requires daily to re-moisturization in order to prevent dryness–using silicones will prevent you from adding moisture to hair and lead to dryness and product build up.

4. Watery leave-in conditioners

Who shouldn’t use them?

Low porosity naturals

Why?

Watery leave-in conditioners make great refreshers for twists or day(s”> old wash and gos, but typically do not pack enough punch to replenish moisture after washing. Low porosity curls thrive when you use products that are rich in moisture and emollients. Humectants are also work well on low porosity hair, since humectants attract and retain moisture to the hair.

If your watery leave-in contains these ingredients, go for it. Otherwise, a more moisturizing leave-in is doctor’s orders.

5. Creamy curl definers

Who shouldn’t use them?

Naturalistas with tight curls, kinks and coils

Why?

If you want to maximize the definition on each one of your tight coils, forget applying those creamy curl definers. Instead, opt for a moisturizing custard with hold.


What types products don’t work on your hair? Sound off below or on NC’s Facebook.

CURLS Pure Curls Clarifying Shampoo is protein-free, silicone-free, sulfate-free and glycerin-free.

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7 Reasons Your Next Makeover Should Be a Big Chop
A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life.
Coco Chanel
photo – Rashad White

Coco Chanel famously said, “A woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life.” How right she was.

A hair cut is really a powerful tool for transformation because it can:

  • immediately affect how you see yourself and your place in the world

  • make you feel bolder and more confident

  • affect how others perceive you

  • help you look younger and more youthful

Are you fond of changing your hair color or playing with makeup as a form of self expression or experimentation?

A second big chop may be what your hair needs instead of another hair color change. You won’t even necessarily need to go back to the TWA stage or give yourself a pixie cut. Any significant reduction in your hair’s length may be called a big chop for all intents and purposes and a change of season is the perfect time to at least consider it.

Summer is definitely the right time to not only consider, but to actually get a big chop. For one thing, it will help alleviate the extreme heat. But if that’s not a compelling enough reason to do a big chop, here are a few other reasons that may help you to decide.

Unfortunately, we’ve been taught to prioritize length over health.

7 Reasons to big chop

1. Healthier hair

A big chop will remove the oldest parts of your hair. It leaves you with healthier hair that’s full of bounce, movement and volume.

2. Less maintenance

You will spend less time on maintenance and have more time to spend with friends and family or more time to spend on a new interest or hobby.

3. Lift the mask

Without all the hair, you get to see true self. Hair can become a mask that we hide behind. You’ll get to actually see yourself and your gorgeous bone structure and facial features.

4. Shorter wash days

Shorter hair typically means shorter wash days and quicker detangling sessions.

5. Save money

Your hair products will last longer which means more money in your bank account.

6. Less drying time

Your hair will air dry much more quickly. This means less need for a diffuser and or less time sitting under a hooded dryer. Let’s face it–no one enjoys sitting under a hooded dryer.

7. Enjoy your hair

Unfortunately, we’ve been taught to prioritize length over health. Have fun with your hair, play around with it more. A big chop is such a great way to change it up, especially because the potential risk of damage which is associated with coloring your hair is absent when you big chop. During the summer, a change of shape and style is just what the doctor ordered. While it’s a possibility that you may regret it, your hair will grow back better than ever. Furthermore, as your hair grows back, it will be like having a new style every few months. A big chop is a great opportunity for a do-over, a great way to reinvent your look and a great way to get hair healthy and keep it that way. Go ahead. Big chop today.

Are you considering getting a big chop?

“A breakup or other traumatic experience are common times for us women to cut their hair as we see it is the one thing we can take immediate control of; we all know it is often a struggle to adjust our feelings and move on right away.” Read more about the Psychology Behind a Woman Chopping Her Hair Off

To watch videos from NaturallyCurly, subscribe to our channel to The Twist by NaturallyCurly on YouTube.

What The New FDA Label Regulations Mean For Your ‘Natural’ Beauty Products
The law requires that claims listed on labels be truthful, but as consumers we know that not all companies are scrupulous enough to truly be honest.
natural hair woman fruit store
photo – Jacob Ammentorp Lund – Getty Images

Recently, the FDA recently announced new regulations that will govern the information required on the nutritional panels on all food items sold in the United States.

The new rules, which are to take effect in July 2018, will see the revision to the serving sizes of most foods. They will also require additional information on labels like the amount of added sugar listed as a percentage of daily values as well as in grams. Naturally, with these changes on the horizon, the labeling of hair care and cosmetic products came to mind. Note that they will not impact these categories of products since they are not food items. Nonetheless, the rules governing the labeling of our hair and skin care products are so scarcely known, that they certainly warrant examination, especially since as a community we place such a premium on products that claim to be natural or organic.

Unfortunately, for many years, the FDA has declined–and repeatedly at that–to define the term ‘natural’ as it relates to food items.

What does natural mean?

Unfortunately, for many years, the FDA has declined–and repeatedly at that–to define the term natural as it relates to food items. The term natural is not defined in any of the regulations that the FDA is charged with enforcing. More to the point, however, is the fact that the FDA has no say in whether or not a product is permitted to use the description organic.

Who regulates cosmetics?

Cosmetic products are regulated by FDA under The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act and Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, but neither of these two regulations include a definition of the term. In fact, anything that is organic is regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, USDA’s Agricultural Marketing Service. This group enforces regulations which govern the requirements that must be met in order for agricultural ingredients to be deemed organic and therefore be permitted to use the organic symbol on products.

The simple way to look at it is that the USDA oversees whether or not a manufacturer may claim their product as organic and the FDA regulates the product safety and labeling of that product. The set of guidelines that an entity must fulfill in order to use the organic label is separate from the regulations that the FDA enforces and must meet the same FDA safety and labeling requirements.

Distressingly, it is completely permitted by law for a company to put its cosmetic product on the market without FDA approval of its labeling.

The law requires that claims listed on labels be truthful, but as consumers we know that not all companies are scrupulous enough to be honest; too many companies purposely attempt to mislead consumers with the claims they make. It is up to us to read our labels and analyze the claims that products make. Due diligence is completely up to us and when we find that there are breaches and inconsistencies, we ought to shed a light on these occurrences. When it comes to the hair and skin care products we use, we are indeed, our brother’s keeper.

4b & 4c Naturals CAN Rock A Wash And Go To Perfection
It’s summertime and that means that it’s the season of the wash and go.
type 4 hair wash and go
courtesy of istock images

Many Type 4 naturalistas have believed that for them the wash and go is simply a no go.

That’s a misconception.

I have seen even very popular Type 4 YouTubers say that wash and gos do not work on Type 4 hair with the utmost conviction for many years — until fate shows them otherwise. They visit a salon and a stylist is able to get those Type 4 coils and kinks to pop. The veil lifts and they can see clearly the definition they believed did not and could not exist. You, too, are only a product or technique away from seeing your kinks and coils at their most defined.

Even if you’ve had some success with defining your Type 4 hair, you may feel that you have not yet mastered your wash and go and the truth is, you are not alone. Truth be told, regardless of your curl pattern, it can take a lot of trial and error to get your wash and go “perfect.”

The real key is perseverance. You mustn’t give up. Somewhere out there is your best wash and go yet.

How to get your best wash and go

Step 1. Find your Holy Grail

One half of the wash and go equation is finding the right product or combination of products for your hair type.

Creams rarely work for Type 4 coils, so gels are usually the way to go. Typically, the more weight you can add to the hair, the more definition and less shrinkage your hair will notice. However, your favorite products may not mix well together and may result in flaking or itchy when used in combination.

Step 2. Discover your technique

The next half of the equation is technique and the fact that you need to work on hair that is sopping wet for best results.

Apply product in small sections, raking and smoothing it through the hair until the curls pop. This could take a few seconds or a minute or two. Just keep smoothing and raking. One of my personal favorite things to do is to make 10 to 12 loose jumbo twists in my hair once I’ve finished defining my curls. This does stretches my hair to minimize shrinkage and helps to clump my curls together more. Once my hair is dry, I undo the twists and get looser curls that are full of movement.

Each clump of curl usually separates itself from the rest of the twist with me having to much and my hair doesn’t tangle like it would if the hair was untwisted.

Step 3. Refresh (optional”>
My definition usually lasts for several days with no re-twisting or refreshing required. This works well for me but of course it’s important for you to find your own personal preferences through trial and error. Like I said before, the key is to keep at it–you haven’t failed if you haven’t tried. Some naturals re-moisturize every morning, some find that they like the look best when they re-twist at night, and others like that their hair grows more voluminous throughout the week. The choice to refresh is really up to your personal preference and the amount of moisture your hair needs to feel its healthiest. 

Have a fantastic summer!

Do share your wash and go tips for Type 4b and 4c hair in the comment section below.

For further help with your wash and go this summer, check out this article highlighting wash and go tutorials for Type 4b and 4c hair types.

Not sure what your hair type is? Check out this infographic guide or take our quiz

In a hair rut? Follow us on Instagram for inspiration.

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6 Popular Conditioners from Your Favorite Brand

We know SheaMoisture is one of the most popular and beloved brand of products within the natural hair community, in fact it won our community’s Overall Favorite Brand award in our annual Best of the Best survey for the last two years. SheaMoisture products are loved because they contain quality ingredients, are accessible on the ground and prices generally come in around the $10 mark. That’s the tri-fecta right there. However, the most important thing about SheaMoisture products is that THEY WORK! With an extensive product catalog involving multiple lines of products for different hair concerns, there is something for everyone with SheaMoisture, but the variety can also make it hard to choose. Here’s a look at six of the more popular SheaMoisture conditioners and their benefits.

*Editor’s note: This post is not sponsored. 

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Shine Conditioner

This daily conditioner is lightweight and the curl definition and shine of hair. Hair is smoothed to reduce frizz, tangles and knots and the result is hair that is frizz free and defined. Coconut oil imparts shine and strength and helps smooth the hair while shea butter nourishes the hair and helps fight dryness.

Who should use it? People dealing with dryness, tangles, or frizz.

Price: $10.99

SheaMoisture Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Conditioner

SheaMoisture’s Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Conditioner hydrates and softens hair to promote easy detangling. Hair is infused with shine and moisture levels are increased after using this conditioner. The Hydration Intensive conditioner contains certified ingredients such as honey, shea butter, mafura and baobab oils. These ingredients fight dryness and brittleness by nourishing and conditioning the hair to make it more manageable and easier to style.

Who should use it? People suffering from dry, brittle hair.

Price:  $9.99

SheaMoisture Yucca & Plantain Anti-Breakage Strengthening Conditioner

This conditioner strengthens hair and smooths the cuticles of the hair to reduce frizz and tangles and increase shine. Hair’s overall appearance is improved and hair is more resistant to breakage with the use of this conditioner. Certified organic plantain and yucca provides strength to hair and baobab oil promoted shine.

Who should use it? Those who experience frizz, dullness, breakage, and split ends.

Price:  $10.99

SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner

The Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner is a dual leave-in or rinse out conditioner that moisturizes, repairs damaged hair and detangles. Argan oil helps to keep hair elastic and adds shine while mineral rich sea kelp provides nourishment for the hair. Shea butter, which is a staple in all SheaMoisture conditioners helps to moisturise and condition the scalp and hair.

Who should use it? Anyone who colors their hair or is experiencing damage and dryness.

Price:  $10.99

SheaMoisture SuperFruit Complex 10-In-1 Renewal System Conditioner

The Superfruit Complex conditioner offers ten benefits in one. This conditioner fights aging, keeps color treated hair vibrant, nourishes, hydrates, adds shine, softens, fights stress, strengthens hair, improves manageability and revives body. This conditioner is loaded with anti-oxidants to restore dull, lifeless hair. The superfruit complex provides the scalp with nourishment while biotin and marula oil join forces to keep hair elastic.

Who should use it? People who struggle with dryness, tangles, or those who color their hair. 

Price: $10.99

SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Conditioner

Hair is shiny and vibrant after using the Grow & Restore conditioner. It’s lightweight, provides moisture and makes detangling easy. Black castor oil and certified organic shea butter nourish and strengthen brittle, damaged hair and instantly improves its appearance. Peppermint oil helps to stimulate scalp circulation and promote healthy hair growth.

Who should use it? Anyone with who is experiencing  breakage and wants to encourage hair growth, as well as those who color their hair.

Price: $10.99

Which of these SheaMoisture faves have you tried? Share your experiences below.

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How to Dye Your Hair AND Do a Protein Treatment – In the Same Day
illustration – solar22 – Getty Images

If you are anything like me, life gets busy and the aim is to maximize the use of time as much as possible. Wash day is already long enough for most of us, so why not wash and treat process for one day and go through the color process a few days later. Being able to do everything in one day would certainly simplify things, but is it safe? That is what  NaturallyCurly community member Simplee_dee  wanted to know when she posted this question on our Curly Q&A:

Question

Can I use a Clairol Semi Permanent hair color rinse the same day as issuing ApHogee’s Two-Step?

Answer:

Yes.

Permanent hair color lasts much longer than a semi-permanent treatment. But more important is the fact that while permanent hair color requires the opening of the hair shaft in order to add color, usually with bleach or ammonia, semi-permanent color does not require the hair shaft to be open and involves only depositing the color on the hair shaft. Read more about semi-permanent hair color here.

So, can you apply semi permanent color after the protein treatment? The answer is yes.

How to use a protein treatment and hair color safely

ApHogee recommends that you use Two-Step Protein Treatment before using a semi-permanent hair color, “Wash hair with ApHogee Shampoo for Damaged Hair, rinse and towel blot dry. Follow general directions for applying ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment. After rinsing, towel dry & apply the depositing tint as usual. Place a plastic cap over your hair and check every 2-1⁄2 minutes. A warm dryer may be used. When the tinting is complete, shampoo thoroughly from hair. Apply ApHogee Balancing Moisturizer to help restore natural moisture balance to your hair. Rinse and proceed with next service or style as usual.”

We took our reader’s question straight to a Clairol Professional brand representative, who said the Beautiful Collection products are “a traditional semi-permanent color and can be used after any chemical service. For longer-lasting, more vibrant results and enhanced gray blending, cover hair with cap and process under a warm dryer for 10 minutes. Cool 5 minutes and rinse well. Do not shampoo. Heat is not recommended immediately after a relaxer.” She also said that the Clairol Professional Beautiful Collection line safely colors natural hair, “keeping delicate hair moisturized with a gentle, ammonia free formula.”

If you have gray hair, then give the Advanced Gray Solution a try as it provides “longer-lasting gray coverage than traditional semi-permanent hair color for up to 50% gray blending. Advanced Gray Solution features Advanced O2 technology, meaning the color actually air-oxidizes to penetrate into the cortex to provide better coverage on resistant white hair.” Advanced Gray Solution is a great color choice for gray coverage on chemically relaxed hair because it requires no developer or ammonia. Heat is not recommended with Advanced Gray Solution.

Do you have a question for the NaturallyCurly community? Ask away here.