Search Results: Vanessa Osbourne

Why Your Color-Treated Hair Needs a Purple Toner
Are you a brunette with blonde highlights that go golden instead of giving you the ashy color you live for?
Beautiful blonde curls courtesy of @dailiperez

Do you have silver, white, or blonde color-treated hair that becomes brassy and yellow over time? Are you a brunette with blonde highlights that go golden instead of giving you the ashy color you live for? If you answered yes to any of these questions, then purple shampoo is what the hair doctor ordered.

What is purple shampoo?

Well, it is exactly what is sounds like: a shampoo that is deep purple in color. When used on hair that has become brassy and yellow, the purple pigment is deposited to counter the yellowness to tone it down.

According to the basic color wheel, purple and yellow are opposite of each other, which is why a purple shampoo and toner works at fighting yellow tones. However, a purple shampoos is not limited to blondes only. Brunettes or those with highlights can also benefit from using purple shampoo (on the highlighted portions of their hair”>.

Why blonde hair turns brassy

Normal color-treatment fading, hard water, sun exposure, air pollution, chlorine and some hair products are some of the likely contributors to your hair becoming brassy or yellow color. Using clear or white products such as mousses and gels will help slow the appearance of brassiness and keep your blonde hair looking fresher for longer.

Photo courtesy of Nik Merkulov — Getty Images

Tips for using a purple shampoo

Alternate your purple shampoo with a color safe one. If your hair has a lot of brass and you are just beginning your anti-brass regimen, then you may be able to get away with using your purple shampoo for every wash. Still, it is best to start once a week and go from there. Strand testing is also advisable before you start your anti-brass journey to avoid potential hair disaster. Once you begin this process, alternate with your color-safe shampoo. You could also mix both shampoos together.

  1. Rinse your hair in warm water in preparation for shampoo. Warm water will help to open the hair shaft so that the purple pigment can be deposited inside the shaft.
  2. Shampoo as normal, focusing on your roots and then allowing the purple shampoo to run down the length of the hair while rinsing. The ends of your hair are more porous and pick up color much easier than the roots.
  3. If your brassiness is severe, allow the shampoo to sit on the hair for 5 to 15 minutes.
  4. After conditioning, rinse your hair and style as usual.

How to make your own purple shampoo and conditioner

  • In an empty container, place your desired amount of shampoo or conditioner
  • Add 2-4 drops of food coloring (violet, blue and red etc”> or half a teaspoon of hair dye/color paste
  • Mix well until the color is homogenous

If you are trying to get rid of more yellow tones, want your color to look more purple, or are trying to get rid of more orange tones, make your paste a bit bluer as blue is directly opposite orange in the color wheel. If your hair comes out with a purple tone, shampoo with a regular shampoo to undo the purple color.

Read next: 

The Most Poppin Hair Colors of 2017

Top 5 Products For Blonde Color-Treated Hair

This is Why Bleached Hair Turns Orange (And How to Stop It”>

8 Things You Should Know Before You Try Going Platinum Blonde

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I Took a Hair Bias Test and This is What Happened

I recently saw the article There’s Still a Stigma Against Natural Hair (This Study is Proof”> and I almost skipped over it.

Photo courtesy of @claire_most

I thought to myself “Of course there is a stigma against natural hair–I don’t need a study to tell me that!” Despite my initial reaction, however, I decided to go ahead and read the article anyway. I am so glad I did. Now I get to share it with you and you can share it with your friends! And perhaps, you can find out if you have a hair bias and didn’t even know it.

Perception Institute created the Hair Implicit Association Test (Hair IAT”> in association with popular natural hair brand, SheaMoisture. The test is the basis of The ‘Good Hair’ Study: Explicit and Implicit Attitudes Toward Black Women’s Hair. Conducted in 2016, the study states:

“a consortium of researchers, advocates, and strategists that use cutting-edge mind science to help organizations reduce discrimination linked to race, gender, and other identity differences. Working in sectors where bias has the most power to create harm—our schools, workplaces, hospitals, justice system, and media—we translate findings into interventions and workshops, customize research, and develop strategies to communicate across difference and disrupt the cycle of bias and harm.”

The institute is committed to increasing awareness of solutions to the challenges of discrimination that are a part of real life and the real world. Alexis McGill Johnson, the Executive Director at the Perception Institute wrote an article titled The Beautifully Complicated Reason I Created a Quiz That Tests Bias Against Black Hair which was featured on Essence. In it, she explained the inspiration behind creating the quiz along with a personal narrative embracing her natural texture.

Johnson writes:

“And yet with respect to my hair, the very race conscious values I hold have not translated into a shift in my hair straightening regimen. As the natural hair movement, has grown, I have celebrated the affirming young women who are pushing hair boundaries, but at the age of 44, amidst an unplanned hair transition, I find myself confronting my own hair paradox. Having let go of chemical processing, embracing the real texture of my hair seems to require something more–challenging the deeply embedded ‘hair-eotypes I have about my hair. “–Alexis McGill Johnson. This statement underscores the fact that for black women, hair is never just about hair and there are many complex beliefs and emotions that many of us deal with when it comes to our natural tresses.

Some of the study’s key findings include:

  • across all demographics, the study suggests that “a majority of people, regardless of race and gender, hold some bias towards women of color based on their hair,” this is true of all demographics and white women were found to hold the strongest bias.

  • Natural hair disdain results from societal teachings and can be undone if people are exposed to positive images of natural hair in the traditional media and social media. Diversity matters. Representation matters.

  • Millennials showed “far more positive attitudes towards textured hair than their older counterparts,” regardless of race.

  • Women with natural hair demonstrated either “no bias or a slight preference for natural hair.”

What it was like taking the test

“Your data suggest a very strong preference for textured hairstyles over smooth hairstyles.”

The test is really simple and very user-friendly. It emphasizes both speed and accuracy. If you are too slow to choose your responses, then you won’t be able to generate any results. You also have to keep your fingers on the keyboard at all times and you must read and follow the instructions. The test asks you to choose good or bad for a series of photos of black women with natural hair and straight hair.

The interesting part happens when it places the images in categories on either side of the screen: it tells you one side is good and the other side bad, like straight hair as good hair versus natural hair as bad, and vice versa. During these sections, you should also indicate good and bad with your selections based on the instructions, not your own views. This is where I suppose the biases become apparent. I had a little difficulty when I was required to select bad for the natural hair images because my brain kept saying good and it took a lot of effort to control that. Even when I thought I was thinking one thing, my fingers selected something else. It was a bit like battling myself and it was also super fun.

Do you have a hair bias?

Find out your own hair bias by clicking here to take the test. In about ten minutes, the results could surprise you. Let us know your results in the comments section!

Read There’s Still a Stigma Against Natural Hair (This Study is Proof”>

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Dearest Yara: Tracee Ellis Ross Writes Touching Letter to ‘Blackish’ Costar
Role models are highly important for us psychologically, helping to guide us through life during our development, to make important decisions that affect the outcome of our lives, and to help us find happiness in later life.
Mark Thomas, The Importance of Role Models
Photo via @YaraShahidi

Even to the casual observer such as myself, it would be difficult to miss the signs that Tracee Ellis Ross and her TV daughter Yara Shahidi are close.

I don’t watch Blackish (I remember catching one episode in its early days, but as far as I can tell, the show is not carried by any of the channels I have access to in my cold and small neck of the woods.”> By all accounts, the show is great and the cast is close. However, there does appear to be a special relationship between Tracee and Yara, with Tracee calling them “kindred souls from different eras” on more than one occasion.

Yara recently won the 2017 Essence Black Women in Hollywood “Generation Next” award and Tracee wrote her a touching letter to mark the occasion.

While reading the letter, I thought how awesome it must be for Yara to have someone like Tracee, a veteran actress, as a co-star, mentor, friend and role model at such a young age. Obviously, I am not privy to the ins and outs of their relationship, although I imagine it is a mix of all those relationships, and maybe more. They have been working together for four years; they met when Yara was only 13 years old. Imagine that! Also, they look a lot alike, being brown girls with curls, in an industry that is not particularly representative of that segment of the country, even with the gains that have been made in recent years. Furthermore, Tracee would be able to help guide and mold Yara in ways that perhaps her parent could not. She’s had experiences she can share and lessons she’s learned that Yara will no doubt benefit from.

In her letter, Tracee speaks about their connection as:

  • females of mixed heritage

  • close to their respective moms who she describes as being strong women

  • two brown girls with lots of hair

Representation matters.

Tracee says as much in her letter. She also says that Yara being on television “symbolizes so much to young girls,” which is definitely true. Tracee Ellis Ross is someone Yara can look up to, someone Yara can see that looks like her and for many young girls, Yara is the closest to someone who looks like them. We all need role models, even if it’s not something we are conscious that we need. We all choose to behave a certain way because of someone, consciously or otherwise. That person doesn’t necessarily need to be in the public eye and for Yara and Tracee, their relationship is not only professional, it’s also personal. Making the influence that much greater, I think.

It is heartening to be privy to a little bit of what happens in this relationship. To see Tracee encourage and support Yara as she grows and awakens to the issues in the black community and how she can make a positive influence. It is great to see positive female relationships of any kind and particularly pleasant to read this letter of love, support and encouragement at a time when “diss tracks” and bad blood have been dominating headlines in black entertainment.

Here is Tracee’s letter to Yara during the Essence Black Women in Hollywood Awards:

Photo courtesy of Essence's Black Women in Hollywood Awards

Dearest Yara, 

What a gift it is for me to be able to witness you in this moment of tremendous growth and grace. I was here in this life 27 years before you arrived. And you lived 13 years before we met, yet it has been almost 4 years that we have been walking beside each other, sharing early mornings and long hours, stealing moments of silliness and claiming moments of connection … sometimes in the form of sisterhood, generally under the guise of a mother/ daughter, but mostly as kindred souls from different eras.

There are a few key things that we have in common beyond Black-ish: we are both of mixed heritage and we honor and celebrate our legacies, we both have wonderfully strong mothers whom we love deeply. We have siblings that shore us up and help define us. 

Kerri and Afshine – thank you for raising this being.

Yara, we have earned our relationship gently and I hold it as sacred. Our relationship is important and is not just about me playing your mom on screen.  It is about what happens between takes, in the hair and make up trailer, in our calls and text exchanges and when we see each other out in life as two brown girls with lots of hair that is either masterfully braided, bunned, or just flying free.

I enjoy your company sweet, Yara. I appreciate our ridiculous and ineffable text messaging. I am so glad I knew to call you for the Women’s March and that we will have that as a memory for the rest of our lives, that we were together in that powerful moment.

You can’t help but to grow up, but you are also waking up and that is a choice that you are boldly making. You are interested in and focused on change, drawn to thought leaders, hungry for knowledge and willing to use your platform to inform racial justice and gender parity.

Both on and off the set I witness you finding your voice. I am moved when I see you speak honestly about your own identity as a young Black and Iranian American woman.

I believe your intimate life experience, holds lessons that are universal. You have joined forces with New York’s Young Women’s Leadership Schools to launch the digital mentorship program named, simply, YARA’S CLUB. And you’re just getting started.

As someone who has been in this industry and on the planet for a minute now, I know the journey of becoming more comfortable in your own skin and living each day authentically. I see you in this tradition, having inherited a world that has become a bit more accepting of strong, joyous, smart Black Girls. And I am encouraged that you get to come of age at a time where there is a celebration of Black Girl Magic.

I would be remiss if I didn’t share that, even as I am excited for you, I look around our country, and I hear stories, I know that young women of color are faced with challenging realities. [For example, the African American Policy Forum’s #BlackGirlsMatterReport shows that Black girls are often pushed out of schools, over policed and under protected.] That said, I believe in you and my hope for you is that you will honor your potential while you honor the past, by taking the responsibility of this moment to heart. 

As I know you know representation matters. Your presence on television symbolizes so much for young girls. And your presence off screen informs so much more. I see you as a young woman of substance who is interested in expanding narratives and learning how to create change. As FLOTUS Michelle Obama said, “your generation can be the one to ensure that women are no longer second class citizens, that girls take their rightful place.”

Young Yara…

May you find acceptance, safety, joy and beauty in your own body.

May you stay curious and teachable.

As an artist, and as a girl with a platform, the invitation is set before you to continue to speak truth and to use your creative expression to deepen our understanding of humanity and further social progress. I know you will do so brilliantly.

Love,

Tracee

Read Uplifting Words for All Aspiring Entrepreneurs.

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What Makes a Protective Style ACTUALLY Protective
Because of the popular belief that in order for length to be retained, wearing a protective style must be the rule and not the exception that a natural abides by, according to many.
Photo courtesy of @braidsgang
Because of the popular belief that in order for length to be retained, wearing a protective style must be the rule and not the exception that a natural abides by, according to many. When I went natural, length is really all I heard about. It would have been unheard of to voluntarily big chop a second time, or to choose a short, tapered cut instead of longer hair. Thankfully, the natural hair game has changed and bit and are becoming less rigid, although many still hold on firmly to the ‘old testament’ teachings. However, we now know that protective styles don’t always yield long lengths and, that when they are not done the right way, can even result in significant damage being done to the hair. Many naturals choose to rely on low manipulation hairstyles instead of protective ones in order to achieve their hair growth goals with great success, but protective styles remain a big deal for many. Let’s take a look at what makes a protective style actually protective.

When we speak about protective styles, we are really speaking about styles that protect the ends of our hair.

The ends of our hair are vulnerable because they have been around the longest and subjected to the most stressors. The ends have been subjected to the most detangling, brushing, pulling, tugging, heat, cold and chemicals. After years or even months of all that, it really is no wonder that our ends are fragile and require our protection. Therefore, for a style to be truly protective the ends of the hair need to be tuck away and hidden from potential sources of stress. Popular protective styles include updos, twists, and braids.

Updos

Updos pin up and tuck away loose natural hair or hair that’s been twisted or braided in a manner that pulls all the hair away from the face and off the neck, shoulders or back. While updos can be done loosely or with a firmer hand, they are never supposed to be tight or cause any tension or discomfort on any part of the hair or scalp. Examples of updos include buns, roll, tuck and pins and chignons. These styles tend to be favored for more formal occasions where elegance is required, but can be tailored to more casual looks. The fact that the ends of the hair are completely hidden away is what makes updos actually protective.

Wigs

Wigs offer quick and easy styling options and keep the entire head of hair covered in the cases where a full wig is worn. There are also half wigs which cover only a portion of the head, giving the option of blending the front of your hair with the wig. Full wigs are therefore better protective styles as all of the hair is covered and there is no need for manipulation and blending. Wigs can be harsh on the hairline, may  dry the hair out and even create friction between the inner materials of the wig and your hair, so wig caps should be worn and the wig should be secured in a manner that does not create stress on the hairline.

Crochet braids

This is a technique that allows the wearer to achieve a number of styles and is so popular that it is constantly being improved upon. Initially, crochet braids were installed into hair that was cornrowed in whatever pattern the wearer chose. But today, new techniques for installing crochet braids without cornrows have also been developed. Crochet braiding can be done with loose curly hair extensions, straight hair extensions, faux locks as well as different types of braids and twists. Crochet braids are protective due to the fact that the ends of the hair are completely tucked away and therefore protected from the stresses of regular styling, the environment, and manipulation. Like wigs, these and single braids and twists with extensions, allow the wearer to rock hair of different lengths, textures, colors, density etc. These protective styles allow you to have fun with hairstyling and get creative without the risk of damaging your hair.

To sum it up…

As you would have realized, protective styles are only protective if done in a manner that does not stress the hair or otherwise create conditions that lead to damaging your own hair. The hair also still needs to be maintained and moisturized when placed in a protective style. When protective styling, “out of sight, out of mind,” is simply not a good hair philosophy to live by.

Do you swear by some form of protective style?

Tell us what works for you, and post your fave protective style on StyleNook.

This is how to have less breakage from your protective style. 

If you wear protective styles, it’s important to care for your hair before, during and after. This is how.

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4 Safe, Heat-Free Stretching Techniques for Type 4 Natural Hair
One of the features of hair that is thoroughly moisturized is shrinkage. Yes, shrinkage.
Photo courtesy of 22nd Century Natural Woman on YouTube

While it is always paramount for naturals with type 4 hair to deep condition in order to optimize moisture levels, colder weather means you cannot let up on deep conditioning for a second. One of the features of hair that is thoroughly moisturized is shrinkage. Yes, shrinkage.

Remember this: shrinkage is great.

It’s an indicator that your hair is healthy and elastic and therefore, more resistant to breakage. But shrinkage can also be a pain, as it can make managing and styling your natural hair more difficult. Shrinkage also encourages knots and tangles, which can result in breakage and loss of length. Because of these characteristics, it is generally a good idea to keep your hair in a stretched state to counter its shrinkage and make it easier to style your hair. Since there is no benefit in moisturizing your hair only to dry it out, turning to heat to stretch your natural hair should be avoided as much as possible. In its place, here are 4 styles/techniques you can use to achieve and maintain stretch on your natural hair. Best part: they are heat-free.

African threading

African threading is a popular, traditional styling technique that has been around for a very long time. It has become popular in natural hair community due to its ability to stretch natural hair and because it can also be worn as a protective style if one so desires.

Typically, black thread is wrapped around a section of hair from root to ends. African threading is much less damaging that blow drying the hair and is also more effective at providing stretch than some other methods such as braiding and twisting.

Banding

Banding is quite similar to African threading since it uses ponytail holders (Goody bands”>, but instead of threading, you will wrap the hair in sections to keep your coils elongated.

Cinnabuns/bunning

Bunning is another great way of stretching natural hair. You can have as many buns as you like depending on the length of your hair.

Braids and twists

These are popular styles used to stretch the hair. While hair will not have a blowout-like appearance due to the fact that these styles create texture and definition, shrinkage is minimized by these styles. Putting your braids and twists into a ponytail or banding a few together can stretch the hair even further.

Read Don’t Try to Detangle Type 4 Hair Without These 4 Things 

Uplifting Words for All Aspiring Entrepreneurs

Inspiration is everywhere and all you have to do is be open to finding it, receiving it, and letting it move you to action. I was first introduced to Karla Ferguson through a short feature entitled Queen of Arts in TXTURE, a lifestyle magazine for naturals. The feature gave a brief overview of Karla and how she came to open her art gallery, despite being told such a venture was destined for failure. Karla didn’t listen to the naysayers, however, and credits her stubbornness for helping her block out her haters. Read on to hear what Karla has to say about how a library card helped her development, why she decided to open an art gallery and how she remains focused and motivated to achieve her goals.

I grew up creating and appreciating art. My parents made sure I was exposed to all forms without my even realizing it.

We were often surrounded by positivity, love and creative people. It had nothing to do with money because we didn’t have very much, but a library card was free and there is inspiration all around, you just have to open your eyes. 

There was a void to fill, a lack of art that spoke to me personally as well as others that looked or experience life from a similar perspective. It was difficult to experience exhibits that were more aware of our diverse city and culture as well as socially engaging in Miami.

What fueled me to start Yeelen Gallery

I studied Political Science, International Relations and the Law (I also managed to fill all my elective credits with Art History, various studio art classes and classes rooted in sociology.

These factored into my decision to start Yeelen because I would draw from the many theories and historic perspectives to inform the types of shows I would create or invite into the space. Yeelen means Brightness in Bambara which is a dialect spoken in Mali (West Africa”>, it also has a magical quality of light as a force to drive out ignorance and elevate consciousness.

Fortunately for me I can be a bit stubborn, and I am also a black woman so if I listened to people every time they told me I couldn’t do something I wouldn’t get out of bed in the morning.
Karla Ferguson, owner of Yeelen Gallery
art by Tim Okamura, on display at Yeelen Gallery

History and society has not been fair to people that look like me–I was never expected to amount to much if you look at all the negativity out there towards women, and especially women of color. It is a personal mission of mine to show the world differently, to offer solace and protection to those in need whether it be through the arts, my voice or just in the way I try to carry myself.

To walk in grace is a path I have chosen, and an example I wish to set for my daughters…and all daughters.

I just remember all the moments in which life seemed so difficult and I look at where I am now and how what seemed to be misfortune was often a blessing in disguise, it just took time to reveal itself. I truly believe that I walk alongside my ancestors and that they have been guiding me before I was ever aware of my own existence. Besides resting on past accomplishments eventually leads to boredom, and I dislike that feeling.

Just don’t be afraid to fail; fear is an immobilizing force and you must keep the energy flowing.
Karla Ferguson, owner of Yeelen Gallery

art from exhibit 'Woke AF' by artist James Clover

My advice to aspiring entrepreneurs in 2017

Set a goal, write it down with the steps you feel may be required to achieve it. Don’t worry if it doesn’t flow in a smooth line, life often doesn’t and nothing is set in stone or guaranteed and remember we usually learn the most from our failures.

There is more than one way to reach a finish line, what is important is learning from the journey and pushing through the obstacles. Just don’t be afraid to fail; fear is an immobilizing force and you must keep the energy flowing.

art by Patrick Earl Hammie, on display at Yeelen Gallery

Visit the Yeelen Art Gallery website for more information on Karla and her gallery, and check it out during your next visit to Miami. Follow the gallery’s social media pages to get all the latest information:

https://www.facebook.com/YeelenArtGallery

https://www.instagram.com/YeelenGallery/

https://twitter.com/YeelenGallery

10 Quotes to Help You Love Yourself More Today

In an ideal world, we would always feel great about every aspect of our lives, including the way we look. Fortunately, life is neither ideal nor perfect–because of that, it is lived by perfectly imperfect human beings like you and me. Perfection is not attainable, but excellence is.

As we each follow the paths of our individual journeys, we can take with us these motivational quotes from influential leaders to help make each next step a bit lighter.

“I love my hair because it’s a reflection of my soul.”- Tracee Ellis Ross

”Self-love has very little to do with how you feel about" - Tyra Banks quote

“You yourself, as much as anybody in the entire universe," - Buddha quote

viola davis quote who you are is good enough





Shampoo Haters, Here’s A Tea Rinse to Try
Ditching the sulfate shampoo in favor of a tea rinse is a great way to add shine, reduce shedding, fight dandruff and stimulate hair growth.
Photo courtesy of Jeja — Getty Images
Ditching the sulfate shampoo in favor of a tea rinse is a great way to add shine, reduce shedding, fight dandruff and stimulate hair growth. Incorporating tea rinses in your hair care regimen is a simple yet effective way to stimulate hair growth, enhance shine, minimize shedding and hair loss, soothe the scalp, fight dandruff, and more. Depending on the tea you choose, you may also be able to boost the color or your curls. With such a wide variety of herbs and teas to choose from your hair will never get bored and you can even try different combinations to see which ones your hair likes best. 

How to use a tea rinse

A tea rinse is not only economical, but also very easy to prepare. You simply add your tea or herb to boiling water and let it steep for at least 15 minutes. Let the tea cool and then pour your it over your hair after shampooing.  If you prefer, you could also spray the tea onto your hair instead of pouring it. Depending on your personal regimen, you may use your tea rinse before or after deep conditioning. Let the tea soak into the hair for at least 30 minutes before rinsing, or leave it in for added moisture benefits. Here are a few tea rinses to try. 
Green tea + black tea + coffee rinse

Most teas–actual teas and not herbs–have small quantities of caffeine. Caffeine is able to penetrate the hair strands and help stimulate growth by increasing the flow of blood to the scalp. There are also antioxidants and amino acids in teas. Antioxidants and amino acids help to strengthen the hair, increase shine, soften the hair and increase manageability. Black tea has even more caffeine than coffee and the caffeine from these brews help to combat hair loss by blocking DHT (the hormone that causes hair loss”>. Black tea and coffee rinses will darken hair naturally.

Rooibos tea rinse

Got red hair?  Rooibos, aka red bush tea, is an herb from the rooibos plant grown in South Africa. Rooibos tea has benefits similar to green tea, except rooibos is caffeine-free. This makes rooibos an alternative for those who need to avoid caffeine, such as women who are breastfeeding and children. Rooibos tea is enriched with minerals such as copper, potassium, zinc, and calcium, all of which contribute to healthy hair growth. Red bush tea has anti-inflammatory properties that fight dandruff and soothe the scalp so this is the tea for you if you’re looking for a little relief from scalp irritation.

Rosemary tea rinse

Rosemary tea conditions the hair and boosts its shine and body. It is soothing to the scalp, fights dandruff and stimulates the follicles to promote hair growth. To use the tea as a cleansing rinse, massage it into the scalp after applying. A rosemary tea rinse will leave your hair smelling fresh and clean, which makes it a great option for cleansing the hair and scalp after you work-out.

As always, it is important to listen to your hair in order to determine what rinses it likes best and provides the improvements and benefits you are looking for in your hair.

Have you done a tea rinse?

What were your results? Let us know on Facebook.

Read Ask Dr. Kari: Should You Grease and Oil Your Scalp?

I Applaud Zendaya’s Latest YouTube Video Discussing Hair Extensions
Weaves, wigs, and extensions. Do you know your hair pieces?
Photos courtesy of YouTube

I admit that I sometimes use the terms ‘weave’ and ‘wig’ interchangeably, but there is a difference, and in Zendaya’s recent YouTube video she explained that difference with some basic definitions. What may seem like a frivolous beauty video to you actually carries some significance because this is a greatly misunderstood topic for the general public. 

Natural hair movement or not, women–in particular, black women–still wear wigs, weaves and extensions quite often. This means that little black girls see extensions and weaves all the time, not just on TV, but in real life as well. Women of color traditionally come under all kinds of scrutiny because of our hair. Weaves have become another way to put black women in a ‘box’ so to speak. That does not mean it is fair or right, however. It is almost a case of damned if you do or damned if you don’t; if your hair is natural, it may be viewed as unkempt or unprofessional. If it is not worn in its natural state, be it relaxed or enhanced with extensions, it may be viewed as fake. Additionally, it is sometimes seen as trying to be ‘white,’ ‘loud,’ ‘ghetto,’ or whatever else. This is due to perception and prejudice, which say much more about the other person than it says about you.

I’ve read a couple of pieces about the significance of Zendaya’s video and this is the one, written by Kathleen for Lainey Gossip, I enjoyed reading the most. It may seem like much ado about nothing to assign the video any importance at all. However, young girls, who make up the bulk of Zendaya’s fan base, need to see celebrities for what they are: individuals with more means and access than the average person to make sure they always appear at their best. This is a healthier outlook than viewing them as people who are just more beautiful, with perfect skin and impossibly shiny, healthy, long and beautiful hair.

If your goals and standards are unrealistic, you will never attain them and that may leave you feeling like a failure.

They need to understand that they are not failures. Zendaya’s video is all part of pulling back the façade that is portrayed with airbrushing tools like Photoshop; hair pieces are just as much a part of creating an image and since that image is not real, we should not hold ourselves up in comparison to it.

Black women are often judged for wearing extensions while white women pretty much get a pass. It is totally overlooked that most celebrities enhance their natural hair either to increase its volume and density or to create length, and the majority of these celebrities are white. No one bats an eyelash, but let a black woman wear a wig and the scrutiny is ridiculous. Somehow, a negative impression is created that is primarily assigned to black women.

Zendaya’s transparency on the topic helps to bring attention to the fact that pretty much all female celebrities wear hair enhancements at some time or another.

This, in turn, will help young girls feel less inadequate about their hair. They will realize that the long, full lengths are for the most part not natural and so put less pressure on themselves to attain this unnatural standard. And it will open their eyes so they stop viewing hair enhancements as a black woman’s affliction. Because it’s simply not.

Watch Zendaya’s latest video here

Don’t forget to subscribe to the NaturallyCurly channel on YouTube

What Jessica Williams Thinks About Women Who Reject Victimhood

I think there is a fear that if we present an idea that, ‘Hey, maybe [Black women] have it a little bit harder in this country’ — because we do; Black women and trans women do — if we are having it a little bit harder, it doesn’t invalidate your experience. I really am begging you to not take it personally.
Jessica Williams

Photo courtesy of Sundance Festival

Have you ever wondered about this?

Have you ever tried telling a friend how you felt about something and all they did was try to tell you all the ways they had it worse, that your situation isn’t really a ‘problem.’ Why is that? Why aren’t all of our experiences valid? I do not know why we do this, but it seems like a fairly common occurrence, so why are we still talking about it?

If you have gotten the chance to catch an episode of the Daily Show, then you have probably come across Jessica Williams.

An actress and comedian (with fabulous hair by the way”>, Jessica is poised for a breakout year. She was recently at Sundance promoting a film called The Incredible Jessica James. This role was written specifically for Jessica and, by all accounts, her performance is a breakout one.

“After early screenings at the festival, the consensus seems to be that Jessica Williams Is A Star. It is a breakthrough breakout performance,” says laineygossip.com.

Jessica understands the importance of the role and the opportunity not just for herself, but for diversity. She reportedly said that the movie and opportunity were both so important to her that she redid her braids and laid her edges for the Sundance premiere. If you are a black woman with natural hair, you get the significance of that statement. Here is what Jessica had to say at this year’s Sundance, as told to PEOPLE:

“My ancestors were slaves. Williams is my last name but it is not real name, it is my slave name. I am my ancestor’s dream. They fought for me to be able to stand up here in the cold ass snow in front of a bunch of white people wearing UGGs.

I’m not quite sure what to say today because I can’t speak to every single person’s experience. I can only speak to mine.

When I was a kid, for some reason in middle school, I stopped doing my homework. My mom went to my parent teacher conference and they said, ‘We don’t know why Jessica Williams isn’t doing her homework.’ And my mom was like, ‘What the hell? Are you kidding me?’

My mom was that kind of minority mom-mad where she’s not really saying anything, she’s just mad looking. My dad happened to be out of town that day so we walked into this house — I grew up in the suburbs, my mom grew up in the projects — we walk in this big beautiful house, she and I, and she said, ‘You wanna have a seat?’ I said, ‘Okay.’ She said ‘You wanna talk to me about these grades?’ I was like, ‘Um. Nah.’ She said, ‘Why don’t you tell me why you’re not doing your homework?’ and I was like ‘Um… because I just wanted to play The Sims and read Harry Potter all day?’  

She was like, ‘Do you want to explain all the Cs to me?’ Because I got a bunch of Cs and I was like, ‘Alright — how do I get in not that much trouble?’ So I thought about it and I was like, ‘Mom, when you really think about it, me getting a bunch of Cs is not that bad?’

I’d never seen my mom that angry in my life. I saw fire flash in her eyes. I said, ‘really, when you think about it, Cs are average. And really is it that bad to be average?’ “

My mom took a second and then she said, ‘Average?! I’ll show you f—— average. Come upstairs.’

So we went upstairs. I had my own room. She pointed to my plastic blue iMac computer and she said, ‘You tell me, would an average black kid have that?’ I was like, ‘No.’ She pointed to my phone. ‘You tell me, would an average black kid have that? Would your cousins have that?’ ‘No.’ She pointed to my Harry Potter books. ‘Would an average black kid have that?’ I was like, ‘Nah.’ She pointed to my TV and she said, ‘Would an average black kid have that?’ ‘No!’

She said, ‘You listen to me because this is the only time we’re going to have this conversation. You come from me and because you look like me — because you think like me and you talk like me and you sound like me and you have my skin — you are never allowed to be average. There are people out there who do not look like you that will get more than you have for doing average work. There are people who are the opposite of you that will actively fight to make sure you don’t have s—. So you listen to me – You never, ever walk up in my house again talking about it’s okay to be average.’ “

I was like, ‘So am I grounded… or?’ She was like, ‘Oh, you grounded. You bet you’re grounded. Hold on let me get this right here.’ She grabbed my phone and said, ‘Let me take this phone and see if you can enjoy being average.”

Now she was wil’n. Like none of this s— made sense. Then she tried to grab the TV – tried. She was like, ‘That’s okay, that’s okay. I’ll be right back.’ So then she went to the closet and got a bunch of sheets. She threw them over the TV and said, ‘Boom — try and be average now.’ She threw another sheet – threw it over my damn blue, plastic iMac computer because she couldn’t lift it. ‘Try to be average now.’ She said, ‘That’s the last time I want to have this conversation’ and then she walked out of the room and just left me there. And I’m standing in my room with a bunch a sheets like the house that was in foreclosure in Jumanji after Alan Parrish reemerges. 

The 2 Dope Queens podcast host was also recently invited to a luncheon for women in Hollywood and while there, she tried to explain to the others that black women had it harder than other women. Williams was met with advice to reject her victimhood and be who and what she is when she isn’t a black woman. Read about this conversation in detail here.

It is clear that some of the other women there were not really hearing Jessica.

I believe this is a part of the reason why believe that feminism is not inclusive and does not support the cause of black women. Jessica also had to work hard to control her emotions, to be diplomatic because it would be easy for people to label her passion as anger and then try to further belittle her and her opinions by labeling her an angry black woman.

Why is it so hard for us acknowledge the struggles others face without thinking that it somehow means we haven’t had to face and overcome our own set of obstacles?

There have been similar responses to the #BlackLivesMatter movement, like the countermovement #AllLivesMatter. While I did not study psychology or even sociology, there has to be an explanation.

If you know the answer, I would love for you to offer some insights below, because I really would like to know and we all need to be vigilant in listening to others and trying to really hear them.

Read An Open Letter to the Pretoria School Girls

Turmeric: The Gentle, Chemical-Free Way to Remove Facial Hair
 After reading up on the benefits, I am ready to go steady with turmeric. Will you join me?
Photo by billnoll — Getty Images

I bet this alone will make you want to add some more turmeric into your life: there are more than 300 antioxidants in it. I have been using turmeric on and off and I have definitely seen a difference, especially on my skin and face. After reading up on the benefits, I am ready to go steady with turmeric. Will you join me? Let me convince you why you should try it.

What is turmeric?

A common ingredient in many Indian dishes, turmeric is a powerful healer. It is a popular choice for its skin care prowess. In fact, traditional Indian culture uses it a key ingredient in bridal beauty treatments for brides-to-be leading up to their wedding day. Here is an overview of some of the many benefits of turmeric for your overall health as well as your skin and hair care routines.

With repeated use, turmeric loosens facial hairs without causing any pain. If you are a frequent facial hair tweezer, your whole process just became easier. 

Health benefits of turmeric

According to medical professionals at Authority Nutrition, the health benefits of turmeric are derived principally from curcumin, its active ingredient, which belongs to a group of compounds called curcumoids. This is what gives turmeric its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Turmeric also fights chronic inflammation, an ailment believed to play a role in most major diseases including autoimmune disease, some cancers, Alzheimer’s, and heart disease. Research suggests that turmeric is comparable to many anti-inflammatory drugs in fighting chronic inflammation without the risk of the side effects of using drugs. The curcumin in turmeric can lead to improved brain function and therefore reduce the risk of brain diseases.

Additionally, turmeric blocks the effects of free radicals and boosts the activity of our body’s own antioxidants. 

Benefits of turmeric for the skin

  • Treats acne

  • Controls oil skin

  • Evens skin complexion

  • Fights the signs of aging and reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines

  • Soothes burns

  • Lightens stretch marks

Benefits of turmeric for hair growth

  • Treats dandruff

  • Lightens hair and may be combined with other yellow hued flowers and herbs including chamomile tea, calendula and saffron.

  • Prevents hair loss

  • Treats scalp conditions sue to its antibacterial, anti-fungal, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory details.

Photo courtesy of Sjale – Getty Images

Using turmeric to remove body or facial hair

With repeated use, turmeric loosens facial hairs without causing any pain. This means that if you are a frequent facial hair tweezer, then your whole tweezing process will become a lot easier. If the hair is thin and fine, you may not even need to tweeze in order to remove them as they are likely to fade away or fall out on their own.

Note that the results from using turmeric to remove facial hair are not immediate, but that fact that this is a chemical free, pain-free and gentle method of hair removal more than makes us for this fact in my mind. It also helps the overall appearance and health of your skin will improve due to all the many benefits of turmeric for the skin. Here are the directions, courtesy of The Indian Spot:

1. Combine the following ingredients into a clean bowl to form a smooth paste. If mixture is runny then more turmeric powder may be added.

  • 1/2 cup of cold milk

  • 1/2 cup of gram flour

  • 2 tablespoons of turmeric powder

  • 1 teaspoon of salt

2. Apply your paste to your unwanted facial hairs and rub onto skin in a circular motion for at least 5 to 10 minutes. Let the paste dry, then rinse off with warm water.

Have you experienced the hair, skin, and health benefits of turmeric yet?

Let us know in the comments below.

3 Signs Your Co-Wash is Failing You

Co-washing is the practice of cleansing your hair with conditioner in place of a shampoo. Due to the popularity of the practice, product manufacturers began providing co-washes and cleansing conditioners as products to replace the traditional conditioner when co-washing.

Due to its gentle effect on natural hair, co-washing is the primary cleansing method for many naturals. However, sometimes co-washing can lead to unexpected and negative outcomes. Here are some signs that your cleansing conditioner or co-wash is not working properly–and how to address them.

3 major signs that your cleansing conditioner or co-wash is not working properly

1. After you co-wash, you see white residue on your scalp

This is a definitive indicator of product buildup. It also means that your co-wash or cleansing conditioner is not up to the challenge of removing the products that remain on your scalp. A stronger cleanser–and maybe even a clarifying shampoo–may actually be necessary in order to provide the thorough, deep clean your scalp requires.

It is a good idea to deeply cleanse your hair every few months (or weeks, depending on the type of stylers you use in your regimen”>. Even if you do not notice product buildup on your scalp, it is a good idea to give your strands a deep every so often.

2. Your hair feels drier throughout the day

This can be due to a lack of response to your usual moisturizing products and is likely an indicator of product buildup on your strands. Once your hair starts being affected by product buildup, it will become drier over time–additionally, more buildup reduces the amount of moisture that actually makes its way to your curls.

Pay careful attention to your hair and if your tried and true regimen starts to fail you, try a clarifying shampoo or apple cider vinegar rinse.

3. Your hair feels limp and spongy

Is it possible to over-moisturize the hair? Absolutely. This issue usually occurs to the veterans in the natural hair game, since we tend to focus on boosting moisture levels as one of the steps in promoting hair growth and can tip the scale when it comes to moisture-protein balance, which is essential to maintaining healthy hair. Typically this happens after we have been using too much protein and our hair starts feeling hard. In an attempt to recalibrate, we start avoiding protein upping our hair’s moisture intake to the point where it becomes overdone.

If your hair feels limp, spongy, and softer than what you have become accustomed to, it’s probably over-moisturized. If it keeps stretching and stretching without breakage, this is also an indicator that the protein-moisture balance is compromised and must be addressed.

Cut back on the frequency of your co-washing, especially if you do so several times a week. Introduce a mild protein treatment and go from there, based on your hair’s response.

It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation.

Over-moisturized hair does not occur the same way with each natural. What causes over moisturized hair in one individual won’t necessarily have the same impact on another. Lifestyle, environment, and other factors also play a part. As always, the key is to pay close attention to your hair. This way, you will notice early warning signs that products are not being effective or are causing unintended results.

Have you had issues with co-washing? Share yours below

Let the NC community know what works for you.

This Controversial Illinois Law Is Changing the Salon Industry – But Will It Help Fight Abuse?
Lawmakers in Illinois are mandating hairstylists to complete one hour of training, every two years, on recognizing the signs of physical and emotional abuse and sexual assault. Will this be effective?
Photo Courtesy of Drazen Lovric — Getty Images

Beginning this month, lawmakers in Illinois are mandating hairstylists to complete one hour of training, every two years, on recognizing the signs of physical and emotional abuse and sexual assault. As the training is compulsory, licenses will not be renewed without completion of this training. Nail technicians and aestheticians are also affected by this new law.

Why lawmakers are making this a requirement

The rationale behind the law is that women often form bonds with their hairstylists and therefore, in theory making the professionals well-positioned to offer up advice on how and where to seek help. While this certainly is true in many cases, it is by no means all-encompassing. During my relaxed days, I saw the same hairdresser consistently, sometimes once a week and yet, I never shared anything about my personal life with her. I loved her skills and she was affordable, but that was it for me. I am sure there are many other clients out there like me, and with abuse being such an uncomfortable topic for many women, I personally do not think it is fair to make it mandatory for all hairstylists to get training. Many abused women tend to refuse help from family and friends, so will a hair stylist render any different results? Perhaps, but that is to be determined.

How effective will this new law be?

It is clear that lawmakers are trying to do a good deed by requiring salons to get mandatory training, but it seems that forcing a hairstylist to get training in an area so unrelated to their field is putting them in an unfair position. One in four women are abused by a partner, as are one in every seven males. The law was not stated that barbers are mandated to be trained as well–why is that? Are abused men just supposed to fend for themselves? Many spouses and partners who are abused are also kept closely guarded from the outside world. Once word of this new Illinois regulation gets out, there is a chance that the victims will be forbidden to visit a salon whatsoever.

It also seems to me that it is also putting the stylist in such a position makes them a target for the abuser should their victim confide in a hairstylist. If an abuser finds out that they have encouraged the abused spouse to leave, they could retaliate against the hairstylist. What safeguards are going to be put into place to keep these good samaritans safe?

We need to keep standing up and speaking out against abuse of any kind.

We also need to ensure that women and men who are abused are made aware that there is a way out and help is out there. We also need to ensure that the shame and stigma that are carried around by the victims of abuse is counteracted, or putting their issues out there in an environment as public as a hair salon may do more harm than good. Many people want to help, and some salon professionals would gladly display posters and have flyers available for victims or suspected victims of abuse to access. However, we must consider the fairness of a stylist’s livelihood being challenged by a government attempting to legislate good will? What group of professionals will next be forced to be trained to identify the signs of abuse? Controversial or not, this new law has sparked much needed conversation on domestic abuse. Please, join the conversation and share your views below.

What’s your take on this new Illinois law?

Let us know in the comment section below.

Top 10 Hair Butters for High Porosity Hair
Porosity is an important, though often ignored, factor in your hair care. In simple terms, your hair’s porosity level refers to its ability to absorb–and hold on to–moisture.
photo courtesy of @maureenpowel via Instagram
Porosity is an important, though often ignored, factor in your hair care. In simple terms, your hair’s porosity level refers to its ability to absorb–and hold on to–moisture. Porosity is broken down into three categorieslow, normal, and high.  High porosity hair may be the result of either chemical or physical damage (a result of over-manipulation”>, and can also be due to natural factors like genetics. Whatever the cause, high porosity hair readily absorbs moisture and can take in so much that the weight on the strands usually results in breakage. High porosity hair will also quickly lose moisture to the atmosphere – meaning your hair dries quickly. Therefore, it is important to seal moisture in efficiently so that high porosity hair does not lose too much moisture.
How to lock in moisture

Layering products and using heavier butters are ways to lock moisture in and keep it trapped. Look for sealing butters with key ingredients such as castor oil. The higher up on the ingredient list these heavier oils and butters are, the better. Olive oil helps to penetrate the hair shaft, while ingredients like aloe vera and apple cider vinegar help to seal the cuticles of the hair shaft by balancing the pH level of your hair.

If you are unsure of the porosity of your hair, click here to take our porosity quiz.

Top 10 Hair Butters for High Porosity Hair

Here are the top 10 hair butters that naturals with high porosity curls tend to find the most successful.

1. Jane Carter Solution Nourish & Shine

This blend of butters has an amazing citrusy fragrance and does exactly what the name promises: nourishes and enhances shine by providing your hair with nutrients from butters such as shea, kokum and illipe. Nourish & Shine will add a nice luster to your texture without making it feel greasy.

2. Darcy’s Botanicals Organic Coconut & Cupuacu Natural Hair Butter Pomade

This pomade will help to smooth the hair shaft and control frizz (a natural consequence of having raised cuticles”>. It contains ucuuba seed and shea butters and lists castor oil as its top ingredient.

3. Karen’s Body Beautiful Butter Love

Shea, cocoa, and mango butters are amongst the many beneficial ingredients in this hair butter. It’s a natural hair community fave for many reasons.

4. Naturally Smitten Moisturizing Hair Butter

This butter is especially recommended for high porosity hair types since shea butter is the principal ingredient and in this product, has been combined with castor, coconut and sweet almond oils.

5. OBIA Naturals Twist Whip Butter

Obia Twist Whip Butter is formulated with shea, tucuma and mango butters, to seal the hair and lock moisture in. You hair will be protected after use of this pH balanced butter that also boasts lavender and lemongrass essential oils among its key ingredients.

6. Jamaican Black Castor Oil Loc & Braid Butter

High porosity hair is often particularly prone to breakage, so this butter is formulated to increase hair’s resistance to that. At the same time, it will control frizz and provide moisture and shine to the hair and scalp with shea butter, mango butter, sweet almond oil, and coconut oil.

7. True by Made Beautiful Hydrating Hair Butter

This moisturising butter contains castor oil and honey to seal and add moisture to dry hair. Other beneficial ingredients include coconut oil, shea butter, and mango seed oil, which will nourish and further help to smooth a raised cuticle.

8. Pure Oils Hair Butter

MuruMuru, cupuacu, mango, and shea butters are combined with coconut oil in Pure Oils Hair Butter. Using this rich blend will smooth and tame your frizz while locking in moisture, improving shine and manageability. Since high porosity hair can sometimes lose some of its elasticity, products containing murumuru and cupuacu butters are particularly beneficial, as they help to restore elasticity. This butter also contains coconut oil which is known to help strengthen the hair and boost its resistance to breakage.

9. My DNA Moisturizing Hair Butter

This moisturizing hair butter adds moisture and helps enhance curl definition. This butter adds weight to the hair to help seal moisture in and counteract shrinkage. Monoi de Tahiti (Monoi oil”> and shea butter combine to create a unique product that leaves high porosity hair looking and feeling nourished.

10. TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer

Shea and cocoa butters are united in this product as well as vitamin E for shine, manageability, frizz reduction, and healthy hair growth.

High porosity naturally curlies, do you have a favorite hair butter?

Let us know if we missed one.

Feel like your hair is always dry? This is how to condition high porosity hair and KEEP it moisturized.

Here are 6 Things You Can’t Do When You Have High Porosity Hair. Are you doing one of them?

Read: 3 Reasons Why 4c Hair Is Different Than Other Texture Types

For more inspiration, make sure you’re following us on Instagram

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10 Books Every Parent Should Read to Their Curly Kid
If you are the mother of a naturally curly kid, consider reading books about other children with their hair type to help yours develop a healthy sense of self.

Reading to–and with–your natural kids often is very important not only for language and educational developments , but also because they shape the values and attitudes of your children. As a mother, I know that many school-aged kids have required reading, but there are other stories that are important to tell our children, as they encourage them form a unique identity and belief system. Christians may read bible passages to their kids; if you are the mother of a naturally curly kid, consider reading books about other children with their hair type to help yours develop a healthy sense of self. Here are 10 books you need to read to your little naturalista.

1. I Love My Hair

A BlackBoard Children’s Book of the Year, this one tells the story of Keyana with an aim to teach coily-haired children to feel good about their hair and heritage. Get this $6.08 paperback now.

2. Chloe’s Coily Curls 

This book is a celebration of curly hair girls everywhere and shares a story that hopes to remind us that we’re beautiful as we are. The paperback is $6.25–if you are a Kindle gal like myself, it will set you back a mere $1.25.

3. Curlies Color Too: A Coloring & Hairstyle Book For Mommy & Me

This is a great activity book for mommy and daughter. Learn to style your child’s hair while they enjoy coloring. There are other fun and educational activities that will help your kiddo learn everything from the alphabet to writing their names to learning how to count. The cost is $12.00 for paperback.

4. I Am Mixed

Join twins Jay and Nia as they explore life as children of mixed heritage. I Am Mixed is printed on 100% recycled paper which is something that the environmentalist in you can feel good about. It costs $10.58 in a hardcover and $4.49 for Kindle lovers.

5. The Adventures of Penny and the Magic Puffballs: Volume 1

Penny wanted to be able to wear her hair “down” like the other girls in her class. Then, her mom styles her hair in two puffs and the fun and adventure begins. This book is perfect for any child who is into super powers and heroes. The paperback is $12.04 and the Kindle is $9.99.

Once you learn to read, you will be forever free.
Frederick Douglass

6. Big Hair, Don’t Care

This rhyming picture book tells the story of Lola, a miniature naturalista with big hair. Despite the fact that her natural hair has caused her to lose while playing Hide and Seek, Lola manages to remain positive about its texture and therefore, showing appreciation to it for giving her individuality. Lola knows that its ok to look different from the other children in school and still feel great about yourself. Get it on Kindle for $0.99 or as a paperback for $11.63.

7. My Hair Is So Happy

This story follows Hope, Faith, Grace and Promise: four girls with natural curls of varied shapes, sizes, colors and lengths who invite us on their adventures while promising that we will discover why their hair so happy. $11.99 is for the paperback, and $7.99 is the cost on Kindle.

8. I’m a Pretty Little Black Girl (I’m a Girl! Collection”>

This story is about Mia and her friends. Everyone has different tastes and are good at different things when she realizes that being pretty is about more than what you see in a mirror. Spring $10.80 for the paperback or $9.99 on Kindle.

9. Emi’s Curly Coily, Cotton Candy Hair

This children’s book features techniques and tips for caring for natural hair with a focus on little seven-year-old Emi and her coily cotton candy hair. With a big imagination and positive talks about her hair, this book is worth a read. Get the $8.99 paperback now.

10. Dancing in the Wings

Fame! If your little one dreams of becoming a dancer one day, this story loosely based on Debbie Allen’s experiences as a young dancer is sure to become a favorite. Dancing in the wings features Sassy, a future ballerina who is willing to work hard to achieve her goals. The hardcover is $16.99 and the paperback is $6.99.

Which books have you read to your little one lately? Share below so other parents can check them out!

What Every Curly Teen Can Learn From Amandla Stenberg
Amandla Stenberg is an 18-year-old actress and activist who has been making waves in the entertainment industry and on social media where she boldly and thoughtfully shares her thoughts and beliefs on various issues of note in today’s society.

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Amandla made her blockbuster film debut in 2010’s Colombiana, in which Amandla plays the young version of Zoe Saldana’s character. Amandla may now be all grown up, but I for one will never forget the awe with which I watched the opening scenes of that movie where she was jumping off buildings, staring down and outrunning bad guys. I am no less awestruck now than I was then. Amandla also played Rue in the first Hunger Games movie. That she has presence and talent is undeniable. Amandla also understands that a place in the spotlight provides her a platform with which she has remained mindful about using.

Here are 3 reasons why Amandla Stenberg should be on the radar of every young, black, and natural teen.

Don’t Cash Crop My Cornrows

Amandla’s video, which she did for a school project, breaks down cultural appropriation and explains why it’s an important issue in the black community. This teenager was able to eloquently and thoughtfully explain an issue many adults haven’t been able to. I cried when I watched this video because of the way Amandla handled this topic and because I felt so darn proud. Watch!

Amandla is talented

Amandla is clearly an exceptionally ambitious and talented young lady. She excels at so many things that speak to her discipline and focus. The actress turned activist is also a musician who plays multiple instruments including the violin, drums, and guitar. She is coauthor of a comic book series called Niobe: She is Life.

She’s socially conscious

Amandla takes her activism seriously. She is vocal about her stance against cultural appropriation, as seen in her Don’t Cash Crop My Cornrows video. Additionally, Sternberg serves as the youth ambassador for No Kid Hungry and supports the Ubuntu Education Fund, which takes care of children in Port Elizabeth, South Africa who have been orphaned or are otherwise vulnerable.

We all have some power and a platform. Even without social media, we have families and friends and colleagues over whom we have even a little bit of influence.

In 2016, Amandla was named as one of the 30 Most Influential Teens by Time Magazine. Amandla uses her formidable presence on social media to promote her activism. She has 985,000 followers on Instagram which is no mean feat. Her social media platform is a mix of her interests and shows her in work mode, posing for magazines and on the set of various acting projects. At the same time, it shows her looking like an everyday teen. Which makes it all the more impressive that she has achieved the things she has–and continues–to do.

“I think something that’s really important to me is trying to do what I can from my position of power that comes with having a social media platform to dismantle certain systems that I think are really gross and harmful” – Amandla Stenberg on Elle.com

Social media has given us all a voice. We all have some power and a platform. Even without social media, we have families and friends and colleagues over whom we have even a little bit of influence. One of the things we can learn from Amandla’s confidence is to use whatever power and platform to help right the wrongs we see everyday.

Should You Twist Your Hair Every Night?
Many type 4 naturals who wear twist-outs often swear by frequent re-twisting for preserving definition as well as combating frizz and shrinkage.

If you are a new or transitioning natural, you may wonder: is re-twisting nightly necessary?

To answer that, it really depends on your individual situation. When it comes to natural hair the one size fits all approach almost never works. Depending on your hair type and the humidity levels of where you live, nightly re-twisting might be absolutely necessary. Your current hair length could also be a factor. Our hair has a tendency to change throughout our natural journey, and hair that required re-twisting at one point may no longer need it (and vice versa”>. When my hair was shorter–maybe six inches or so–I had the option of using either anything or nothing, I could twist my hair up, let it dry for a day, and be left with banging definition that lasted and lasted for days. Now that my coils are longer, my definition is not as fly. It certainly doesn’t last for long, either–maybe a day at the most., or two if I am lucky. Perhaps gravity pulls on my coils and loosens the definition more quickly. There are few products that provide me with the hold my hair seems to need now, and I am not one to go the Eco Styler route for a twist-out or braid-out.

Like many other questions in the community, there will be those who are for and those who will be against, re-twisting night.

I suggest that, unless you a super into definition and frizz free hair, you should pineapple, create mini puffs, or even a low ponytail in order to maintain your twist-out and help prevent tangles. Unless your natural hair is suitably long though, doing a pineapple can stretch your texture and create a weird dent or shape.

Will re-twisting cause breakage due to over manipulation?

As stated before, the answer to this question varies by your personal hair type and preference. While it is true that the less you manipulate your hair, the lower your risk of damage and breakage becomes, many naturals choose to moisturize their hair nightly, and this involves some sort of manipulation. Unless you are applying a lot of tension or your hair is extremely weak and vulnerable, re-twisting really should not result in breakage. Therefore, over manipulation should not be an issue. Loose, medium to chunky twists will work just fine for maintaining your desired definition. The length of your hair will play an important role in the size of your twists and how many you need too. If you practice re-twisting every night, create as few twists as possible. When due care is exercised, in my opinion, your risk of damage is minimal. The overall health of your strands and whether they are fine or otherwise, will have an impact. Everyone’s hair is different and you know your hair better than anyone else. Therefore, this makes you the ideal person to determine what your hair can and cannot withstand. Even if your coils are thriving while you re-twist every night, it does not hurt to try going a night or two without re-twisting then seeing how that works for you.

Does re-twisting hurt natural hair more than it helps?

In my opinion and speaking as someone who re-twisted her hair nightly, particularly during the first year or two of my natural hair journey, there should be no negative effects from re-twisting your natural hair provided you follow good twisting practices, such as, ensuring hair is properly moisturised and being gentle during the process so as to prevent tension on the hair and scalp. If you are not careful when handling your hair, almost anything you do can result in damage. Allowing your hair to tangle and matt certainly won’t help and if your hair is short and requires multiple pineapples, you could end up putting stress on your edges. Your hair may even wrap around your ponytail holder. My hair always does and I use hair ties that are free of metal and obvious seams. My hair just likes to wrap itself around stuff. My point is, depending on your hair type, density and strand thickness re-twisting could help and be the lesser of many potential evils.

Are two-strand twists considered a protective style?

Two-strand twists are indeed considered to be a protective style, and there are necessary precautions to take when installing them. Start protective styles on hair that is clean, conditioned and moisturized. Be gentle and take care to not stress the hair and scalp. There is no point in pulling your strands from the follicles just to get the base of your twists tight–your twists will loosen anyway.

The Sad Truth About Hair Discrimination in School

“It’s just hair.”

But then again–it’s not.

PHOTO COURTESY OF VALERIE BARRY – GETTY IMAGES

The sad truth is that hair discrimination in schools is a real issue again; those who are suffering from it are having real life consequences as a result. It seems as though every other month there is a new article outlining some instance of hair discrimination in schools.

On one hand, it has been heartening to see that there are students around the world with bold and strong enough convictions about their sense of justice that they simply refuse to be victimized. On the other hand, however, they should not have to. Being placed in situations in which the adults they would normally look to for guidance and help being molded into the people they will become, are the very enemies telling these children that they are not enough, that they are the other or that they aren’t allowed to be individuals.

I have written this over and over because I believe it to be true.

It is important that distractions are minimized in a learning environment so that learning can take place unimpeded. However, that has become the excuse that some hide behind in order to enforce their discriminatory rules. Hairstyles, are not distracting for today’s kids. Not when they’ve seen 20 selfies of it already on Instagram or when they’ve seen the YouTube video telling them how it’s done. This is a new age. If rules cannot be applied equally to all groups, then they are discriminatory. If they put one group at a disadvantage or give one group an advantage, then it’s discriminatory. It really is that simple.

From South Africa to China to the United States, some of the methods used for school faculty fighting against naturally curly hair and trendy hairstyles have been extreme, to say the least.

These questions remain: how can any administrator think it’s acceptable to alter a child’s appearance without parental consent even? I can only imagine how traumatic such an experience could be for some individuals. What happened to talking to the parents? What happened to the idea of compromise? Students in China are refusing to attend colleges because of grooming rules. While I have no idea of how widespread this practice is, it is one that has the potential to derail someone’s life as well as future prospects. Is this what we want our own kids to endure? Is having everyone look alike that important?

Butler High School  also made the news earlier this year when their dress code stated that natural hair was “extreme and distracting.”

Their rules are the only things that are extreme, and I can only imagine the impact that such a notion would have on my own six-year-old daughter. During her first week of school in Canada, she came home and told me she wanted straight hair. At that moment, I had to remind her of her individuality and why her natural hair type is beautiful. I have seen two little black girls who have never met before run up to each other and hug like best friends, because of the mere fact that they were so happy to see someone else who looked like them. These children already realize that they stand out from the crowd–they have to figure out their place in the world, their identity. As adults, our job is to help them by creating situations that foster a feeling of belonging, even while pointing out the individual beauty in each of us.

We are born how we are born.

We are created how we are created–there is no flaw in the design. Discrimination must end–but it will never end if we cannot even begin to see and admit that it exists in the first place. All of the pretensions and disguises must be stripped away and the issue must be faced and addressed for what is it. There is no other way to heal the world and make it a better place for our children.

Read my open letter to the Pretoria girls.