Search Results: Vanessa Osbourne
If you’ve been thinking about installing braids, you have chosen the right time of year for it. Protective styles are a go-to for many naturals, but many still have questions about proper maintenance.
How often should I get braids installed?
To a large extent, how often you get your hair braided depends on the style and your hair. Some of us have really fine hair that will break off in a stiff wind, so braiding with extensions is out of the question, no matter how infrequently. And if that is the case for you, the strands of our hair are so fine that they cannot handle the weight of extensions. Sounds like you? Install your braids using the crochet braiding method. However, if your strands can handle it, you may install braids in your hair as often as you like, provided you consider the following guidelines.
How long should I wait before getting braids installed again?
Leave at least a week between installations so that your scalp has the opportunity to breathe.
Before your next installation, be sure to prep your hair for braiding with intensive deep conditioning treatments that improve the strength and moisture of your hair.
Image Source: @j.ad.a242
How do I maintain my natural hair while wearing braids?
As tempting as it might be, braiding one’s hair is not a “fix it and forget it” deal. To maintain or improve the health of your hair while wearing braids or any other protective style, you must continue to moisturize your hair and scalp. A homemade hair spritz is great for this purpose, and you can probably make one pretty easily with ingredients you already have.
How often should I wash my braids?
Washing your hair while it is braided or twisted is a matter of preference but choosing not to wash your braids doesn’t mean you can’t still have a clean scalp. One way to keep your scalp free of dirt and product build-up is to cleanse your scalp with witch hazel.
Image Source: @girlandhair
If you would like to wash your braids without causing frizz, doing it while wearing a stocking cap is a great option. You must be prepared to maintain your braids while you wear them, and though your routine doesn’t need to be elaborate, you must ensure that your hair stays moisturized and your scalp is healthy and clean.
How long should I keep my braids in?
Talk to your stylist to determine how long your specific braids should be in to maintain the health of your hair and scalp, but as a general rule, try to keep your braids in for no longer than eight weeks at a time for optimal scalp and hair health. According to Mane Addicts writer Kadia Blagrove, two months should only be your cut-off point if you refresh your hair.
Image Source: @treestaaaa
Here’s the truth:
However long you keep your braids installed is a personal choice; things like activity level and how you maintain them will affect how long you can keep them in. It is best to err on the side of caution and keep your braids in for no longer than eight weeks as long as your hair and scalp show no distress. If you notice any breakage or persistent tenderness, then taking your braids out’s a good idea to curtail any damage.
Just remember this: your protective style will only work if you do!
If you have been thinking that your scalp has become itchier as winter sets in, then you may be right.
Photo by Chris Ghinda on Unsplash
“Why does my scalp itch so much during the winter?”
In the winter, the air – both indoor and outdoor – is drier which can result in moisture being pulled away from your hair and scalp, causing dryness and itching. As itching increases, we tend to respond by scratching. Scratching then causes irritation that results in even more itching, turning into a seemingly neverending cycle of itching and scratching that likely feels like it may drive one crazy.
Our hair habits can add to the itchiness
Our attempts to protect the hair and head from the dry winter air by covering up with scarves or winter hats, create a warm and moist environment in which bacteria and other microorganisms flourish and this may also lead to more itching. Some of us also heat style more in the winter because the reduced humidity means that our straight styles last longer before they revert. Some might reach for the blow-dryer because it’s cold out and we don’t want to step outside with hair that is still wet or even just slightly damp. We also wash our hair with water that is a little warmer than we might otherwise use in another attempt to fight the cold of winter. All of these actions result in the application of more heat which may also cause scalp irritation which may manifest itself in more itching.
It is no wonder our scalp itches more when it is dry and irritated.
It’s like, all of these little critters are there having a party in the dark, warm environment created by the winter hat that’s protecting us from the cold air but making is vulnerable to other issues. Ugh!
How do I minimize itchy scalp in the winter?
How do we fight the itch which rears its ugly head despite our best efforts? Our best bet is to keep our hair and scalp hydrated and moisturized and to use products that will create a bacteria-free environment that is free of irritation.
The do’s and don’ts of caring for an itchy scalp:
1. Don’t scratch
Scratching your scalp is always a bad idea no matter how great it feels. Scratching can lead to abrasions and cuts and will not address the underlying cause of the itch. If your itching is severe, consider whether it may be in your best interest to seek medical advice.
2. Do hydrate
Hydrating is essential to counteracting dryness and dehydration of the hair and scalp in particular and the body in general. In the winter we tend to reduce our water intake but we should always ensure that we are getting all the water we need or run the risk of depriving our body and organs of the fluids it needs to operate optimally. Checking to see if your urine is clear or pale yellow is a good way to gauge if your water intake is sufficient. Remember that keeping your hair and scalp moisturized involves both internal (drinking water”> and external (applying products”> processes. Once you’ve taken care of your insides, hydrate your hair from the outside with a deep conditioner like Eden Bodyworks Jojoba Monoi Deep Conditioner which contains jojoba oil, the oil that most closely mimics the sebum produced by our scalp, and tea tree oil among other ingredients that are known to promote a healthy scalp.
3. Do look for products antibacterial and soothing oils
Peppermint oil is both soothing and cooling to an irritated scalp and tea tree oil has antibacterial and antifungal properties that help keep the scalp free of organisms that can cause itching. Tea tree oil will also help to remove buildup from dirt and dead skin cells. You can purchase tea tree oil based products such as Difeel 100% Pure Tea Tree Hair Oil or EDEN BodyWorks Peppermint Tea Tree Scalp Therapy, that already have these ingredients, create your own DIY blends using a carrier oil such a jojoba oil or coconut oil, or simply add a few drops of these oils to your favorite shampoos, leave-in conditioners, etc. in order to receive itch relief. Lavender is another essential oil that is beneficial to an itchy scalp because it will not only soothe any scalp irritation you may be experiencing but will, like tea tree oil, it fights microorganisms and inflammation.
4. Do apple cider vinegar rinses
Apple cider vinegar rinses restore the pH balance of the hair and scalp ad remove product build-up that may result in itching. Make your own rinse with equal parts water and ACV or purchase a ready-made product such as Creme of Nature Argan Oil Apple Cider Vinegar Clarifying Rinse. Massage these products into the scalp and leave on for a few minutes before rinsing, if rinsing is required. You should notice n improvement in the condition of your scalp and a reduction in itching right away and consistent use should eventually eliminate all itchiness. How do you treat your itchy scalp? Share your tips with us below.
How do you deal with the winter scalp itchies?
Do tell us your secret.
More guides to curing your natural hair winter issues:
This Winter, My Hair is the Silkiest It’s Been in a While — Here’s Why
Honey provides us with a whole host of medicinal, nutritional, and cosmetic benefits, so it’s no surprise that this wonder food is sometimes referred to as liquid gold.
Photo by Fascinadora — Getty Images
Its use throughout history has been well documented and this multipurpose product is used in most parts and in most cultures of the world. When it comes to natural hair care, honey is a popular ingredient in both manufactured products and DIY recipes. The benefits of honey range from creating and maintaining a healthy scalp to hair lightening. Let us take a closer look at these benefits.
Treats dandruff
Dandruff and the itchy scalp it causes are a pain in the butt for many of us. If you find dandruff shampoos to be excessively drying to your hair or find the smell of ointments too gross to bear, then you should definitely give honey a try. A study published in the European Journal of Medical Research in 2001 concluded that the application of 9:1 honey: warm water mixture to affected areas relieved itching and flaking within one week, provided that the mixture was left on for three hours before rinsing. It was also found that ‘skin lesions healed within two weeks and patients even showed an improvement in hair loss. The patients did not relapse even after six months of use.’
Honey possesses anti-fungal, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that keep the scalp free of bacteria and fungus and addresses redness and itching caused by the overgrowth of these microbes. These properties also help to heal abrasions that may be caused by scratching or otherwise scraping the scalp, further keeping the scalp healthy.
Naturally conditions
If you’ve tried homemade deep conditioners in the past, chances are you would have tried the recipe that uses olive oil and honey as the only two ingredients. This recipe is probably one of the most popular homemade deep conditioner recipes among naturals and is as simple as it gets. Some recipes call for a 1:1 ratio of the ingredients while others use the ratio of 2 parts oil to 1 part honey. It’s really a matter of preference and the end result is hair that is softer, shinier and more manageable than before. Adding honey to your regular conditioner/deep conditioner is also a common and beneficial practice.
Cleans hair follicles
The anti-microbial properties of honey get rid of impurities that can cause pore clogging so that hair growth can proceed unimpeded. Build up is removed from the scalp and so the hair is able to thrive. Though honey itself won’t increase your rate of growth, it can create an environment where the conditions for hair growth is optimal.
Naturally lightens
When honey and water are mixed together, small amounts of hydrogen peroxide are created and this leads to the hair lightening over time. Though the source of the peroxide is natural and the process of lightening occurs slowly over time, it is no different from the bleaching process used in synthetic hair dyes so care should be taken to ensure the integrity and health of the hair are maintained and damage is prevented.
Moisturizes dry hair
Honey helps to prevent dry scalp and remove buildup. Being a humectant, it pulls moisture from the atmosphere into the strands to combat dryness and keep hair moisturized and manageable. Since it helps to remove buildup from the scalp, it relieves itching and combats dry scalp because buildup is not allowed to create a barrier between the scalp and the moisture and nutrients from products applied.
Increases shine
The heavy, sticky nature of honey helps to physically smooth the cuticles of the hair strands. This results in a reduction in frizz and an increase in the natural luster and shine of the hair. Mix 5 milliliters of honey in 4 cups of warm water and apply to hair as a rinse and watch and your strands become smoother and frizz disappears.
Some products that make the most of the many benefits this liquid gold has to offer are listed below.
Want more healthy hair tips?
Aromas we smell are processed in the limbic system of the brain where emotions and memories are stored. We are literally tapping into a very deep part of the brain when smelling a fragrance.
It’s no secret, fragrance matters.
The way something smells is a huge part of how we experience not just the products we use, but the world at large. For this reason, a bad smell can be a deal breaker when it comes to our beauty and personal care products, especially if it’s a fragrance that lingers on the skin or hair. Many of us have given up products that worked well because we could not stand the smell or because our significant other complained. Sex and the City fashion icon and celebrity Sarah Jessica Parker once said this to Vogue about fragrance: “It’s immediately communicating more than your clothes, which we think tell our story, right? But clothes don’t invade anybody else’s space.” That’s so true. You can look away if someone near you is wearing something you don’t like–but you can’t hold your breath all day, can you? Fragrance can even linger in a space long after the wearer has gone away. Think of what happens after your date hugs you “goodnight”. Fragrance has such a powerful effect on us that we aren’t always conscious of.Why does fragrance play such a big part in the way we experience our personal care and beauty products?
When asked to explain why fragrance was such a big part of the way we experience products, perfumer and owner of J Hanna Co., Jessica Hanna, says:
“The science behind the olfactory system is fascinating. Aromas we smell are processed in the limbic system of the brain which is where emotions and memories are stored. So we are literally tapping into a very deep part of the brain when smelling a fragrance. There is no filter on the sense of smell either, so we drop into those emotions or memories instantly. This can happen out of the blue, when we least expect it.
A stranger on the street might wear the same cologne as a first lover, causing us to feel breathless and sentimental. Perhaps the scent of a musty cabinet might smell exactly like grandmother’s attic where we used to play as a child triggering joyful memories. Scent is powerful; in products it might achieve a myriad of results like give us confidence, keep us calm, or make us feel sexy. A well-fragranced product should be a gift and tool for the user.”What fragrance says about a brand
Product manufacturers are well aware of the importance of the smell of their products as it pertains to define a target audience. According to Modern Salon, this is called sensory branding. “It was very important to create a product fragrance that captured the essence and sophistication of the line and at the same time worked well with our product formulations,” says Oribe’s manager of product development, Michele Burgess. Aveda Head Perfumer, Guy Vincent, focuses on “natural aroma ingredients, which fit with Aveda’s brand story and are well-known to have aromatherapeutic benefits.”
We all have our ideas of the fragrances we think we’ll like but sometimes things don’t go the way we expect. If you’ve ever bought a fragrance you thought you’d like, worn it once or twice and then never did again, then you know exactly what I mean.
Fragrance is not a one-size-fits-all
Back in high school, I would buy several perfumes that I thought I liked in store but couldn’t bring myself to wear once I got home. I ended up using these perfumes to clean the brown pair of Mary Jane-style shoes I wore as part of my school uniform. Jessica agrees, sometimes fragrances just don’t work for us.
“It’s amazing to see people find what they are attracted to and often it is never what they expect. One of my favorite blending experiences was working with client who had long hair, tattoos, and a commanding demeanor. He was very much into scent…initially he said he liked tobacco and smoky essences, yet once we started smelling, he chose aromas that were floral and bright, which was truly unexpected. On the other hand, I have worked with timid, mild-mannered clients that tell me they want airy light scents. Yet when we start smelling essences, they are attracted to dirty smoky and earth aromas. Our diversity plays out even in the aromas we find attractive and I continue to find that beautiful.”
Our diversity plays out, even in the aromas we find attractive–and I continue to find that beautiful. -Jessica Hanna
Fragrance has to work well with our body’s natural scent and whatever others we may combine them with. They have to create an end result that’s pleasing to us. The scent of your hair product should not clash with your favorite body mist (or that would create an olfactory crisis”>! This is the reason many product manufacturers keep the fragrance consistent throughout their product line or ensure that when different fragrances are used, these fragrances are complimentary. It’s about flexibility, and it’s important to be open minded about fragrance and to be willing to mix, match and experiment. Sometimes, the end result surprises you.
I personally love the smell of chocolate, fresh laundry, florals and citrus. But I am aware that many people have allergic reactions to fragrances. I empathize, because my experience with many fragrance-free products is that they smell quite awful.
How to experiment with a new scent
Are you staying away from synthetic fragrances, or just feel inspired to try blending your own scent for a DIY hair or beauty product? Jessica has a suggestion for you.
“A few drops of lavender essential oil in jojoba oil is a great first experiment. It can be used to calm nerves during an evening ritual during bedtime. Jojoba oil is the closest to our natural skins oils so it serves as an excellent carrier oil and a wonderful massage oil. Experiment with additions of sandalwood, clary sage, jasmine, or bergamot. I always tell my students to source quality materials so the end product is excellent. Remember if an oil doesn’t smell pleasing, then don’t use it.”That’s what fragrance is really about: pleasing the wearer, above all. If you’re not pleased, then it’s not the fragrance for you. And you shouldn’t feel bad for not wanting to use a product just because of the smell and nothing else.
Have a great day, smell happy!
Image:@katrisharose
Coco Chanel famously said, “a woman who cuts her hair is about to change her life.”
She wasn’t kidding.
It’s just hair, but then again, it isn’t. Women across ages, race, and countries all have this wonderfully complicated relationship with our hair. For some, our identity is tied to our hair or some feature of it, be it the length, color, texture or cut. It can be a defining feature in how we are viewed by others and sometimes, even how we view ourselves. Our hair is that one feature that we are tied to… even when we are not aware of it.
When I was a teen with relaxed hair, I could not bear the thought of my hair getting cut. Even the smallest trim was out of the question and my hair stylist would set off a panic if she ever dared suggest one. I never thought about why I was so terrified of getting my haircut and even though I later lost my fear of the shear, I also never analyzed how and why that came to be. Many women feel similarly when it comes to their length – holding on to it without really being sure why.
“Hair holds so much more energy than most of us are aware of. Some women use it as a security blanket whose purpose is to shield and protect, while others use it as a secret weapon to tease and entice” said celebrity stylist Owen Gould told Elite Daily.
Getting a haircut can be like hitting the ‘reset’ button
A haircut can be a fresh start and a way to get rid of whatever baggage we’ve been walking around with. It’s a way to exercise some control when other things seem to be outside of our ability to influence. This is why many women cut their hair after a significant change in their life. It’s an attempt to take charge, to be the one calling the shots for a change. A haircut during a personal life transformation can send a message to a particular individual or group of people, a community, or even to oneself during the process. It can be an act of rebellion and self-empowerment.
After ending a relationship, a woman may cut her hair as a way of rejecting who she was expected to be.
For example, if your ex-boyfriend loved you with long, blonde hair, you might react by cutting it short or dyeing it dark as a way of rejecting the idea of who he wanted you to be. As a way of saying that you are now living for you and doing what makes you happy. The haircut will also reduce the risk of her returning to this relationship since, with it, you become a “new” person who would no longer fit into that mold.
Image:@naturallyshauniece
Maybe it’s resistance to society
Society has told us what features a woman needs to possess in order to be considered beautiful, and a woman might want to rebel against that. She might want to be an individual instead of feeling like just another head of hair in the crowd, indistinguishable from every other head of hair in the crowd.
A haircut is often about transforming oneself and letting go of the past. Letting go of what has felt safe, rejecting fear and embracing change and the unknown. Sometimes starting over can be liberating because you have the benefit of experience and can just enjoy the journey the second time around. Plus, a haircut almost always leads to more time for other things and less time spent washing and styling. A haircut can literally make you feel like a new person, which of course, is the whole point of a life transformation.
Did a major life event motivate you to cut your hair?
Share your story in the comments, and share your photos with us on Facebook!
Illustration by Nicholle Kobi
Image by iSTock/Deagreez
Although not curly, wavy hair is definitely not straight, either. One of the major challenges that having wavy hair can present is frizz. An easy way to combat frizz is by styling your hair with gel. Frizz makes the hair look dry, dull, and can also cause hair to look un-styled. Even when going for the effortless look, it is important for hair to look great; we all know that looking effortless is rarely achieved without effort. Here’s a quick and simple way of letting your natural waves shine through with a hair gel.
Zabrena’s Wavy Hair Routine
- Starting with hair that is freshly washed and conditioned, remove excess water from your hair with a towel (pat your hair but do not rub — you are trying to prevent frizz, not create it”>. Alternatively, you may use an old t-shirt instead of a towel.
- Brush through your hair using a detangling brush, or a wide-toothed comb, to get rid of any tangles or knots. Be gentle on your roots!
- Take a generous amount of hair gel and rake through your waves. Focus on the length of the strands.
- Lower your head, flip your hair forward, and apply a generous amount of hair gel at the back of your head. Flipping hair forward will also create volume and movement once your hair has dried.
- Once the strands are coated with gel, scrunch your hair to encourage natural wave definition (and to squeeze excess water out”>.
- Use your towel or t-shirt and continue scrunching the hair.
- Continue scrunching the hair at five to ten minute intervals, until all of the hair has dried completely.
Use the right tools and products
Finding the right tools and products for your hair is critical to getting the final results you want. If you have thin, fine strands then Biotera Styling Gel is great for increasing volume.
John Frieda Frizz Ease Clearly Defined Gel with UV filter is also a great option for those who spend a lot of time outdoors, or those with color treated hair who want to ensure their hair remains shiny, healthy and vibrant.
For best results while scrunching, and to minimize frizz, try the Hair RePear The Ultimate T-Shirt Hair Towel.
Whether you’re drying, scrunching or plopping this t-shirt towel will give you great results every time.
If you’re still searching for the perfect detangling comb, the Cricket Ultraclean Big Time Comb may be the one you’ve been waiting for. It features antimicrobial technology that prevents bacteria from growing on it, and is also designed to be slip resistant, which means no falling from your conditioner covered, slippery hands.
Try this routine for gorgeous, frizz-free waves, and then post your picture on Style Nook for the NaturallyCurly community to see!
This article was originally published in 2016 and has been edited for clarity and grammar.Image: istock
Summer break is almost over, which means we are not far from having to set our alarm clocks again and get ready for the morning rush. Going back to school is usually associated with new clothes, books, and backpacks; but have you thought about what to do with your child’s hair to ensure they are ready before the school bus arrives?
If you and your kids already have a hair care routine then you may be all set or may just need to make small changes in order to create a haircare game plan that can see you through to the end of another school year. You are also in luck if you have older kids who can tend to their own hair with little or no supervision. However, if your children are younger or have no routine you still have time to set yourself up for success by incorporating some of these ideas into what you do now and/or creating a whole new routine. After all, it is a new school year!
Teach your child to love their hair
Teaching kids to love and protect their hair is very important. Get them involved in their hair routine by letting them put on their bonnets or tie their own satin scarf. As the expert on your child, you understand what they are able to do to their hair on their own. Can they apply the moisturizer? Are they able to use a spray bottle? Giving your child some limited, but varied choices of hairstyles and letting them participate in the styling process is a great way to give them a sense of independence and accomplishment, while also helping them learn good curly hair care.
Choose the right products
for your child’s hair type. There are lots of great products available for curly kids these days. If you’re uncertain about your child’s hair texture, you can use the Texture Typing Quiz to figure it out.A few kid-friendly products
- Original Sprout Shampoo & Conditioner – Kid-friendly and all-natural!
- Kinky Curly Tiny Twirls – Who can resist a cute name? Plus it’s sulfate-free!
- Mixed Chicks Leave-In – Perfect for the bi-racial family. Note: your hair will love it too!
- Curly Q’s Curly Q Gel-lesic – A kid-friendly organic curl styler: what more could you want?
Wash her hair at night
Avoid the morning rush! It may not be necessary to wash her curls every day, much like it might not be necessary to do so to your own. You can opt to wash every other day, or even less, depending on the amount of activity she has had that day and what her hair type is. All things being equal, the tighter your child’s curls are, the less frequently you should wash her hair. Try to make wash day fun but also realize that despite your best efforts your kid may still hate it. Sitting or standing still is not something children excel at so incorporate sing-a-longs, videos and toys as much as possible. Use products that are specifically designed for your child’s hair and texture for best results. Learn how these mommy bloggers take care of their kids’ hair here.
Show your child how much product to use
Demonstrate how much product she needs in her hair and let her either help or finish with the rest of her hair. Let her see and smell the products you are using. Let her choose her style and or accessories from a limited selection. You may want to give him or her an object to help visualize the comparison of the amount of the product to use. For example, if they use a leave-in, use the bottom of a little paper cup or a plastic medallion to measure the amount. Visual prompts and comparisons are great for kids.
Bedtime tips
If your child doesn’t like to go to bed with a wet head, try to do her hair with sufficient time for it to air dry or use a hair diffuser to gently dry her hair. Put her hair up in a pineapple to preserve any loose styles and let her sleep on a satin pillowcase or use a satin/silk bonnet or scarf to protect her hair and preserve the style.
Start out with a protective style
Protective styles are long-lasting and minimize and make it possible for kids to get up and go, which is always a plus. Particularly in the early weeks when they are readjusting to a school schedule.
Refresh and go
When the alarm is off and little feet hit the ground, it’s time to perk up your child’s hair with a few spritzes of water or hair refresher. Mixing water with lavender oil will give their curls a great light fragrance and hydrate them for the day ahead. You may also want to play up your little girl’s hair with a few cute clips or a sparkly headband.
Teach love by example
Teaching your kids to love their curls from an early age can help in avoiding straightening desires and future damage down the road.
What hair routines to do you have with your little one?
2017 has been a roller coaster of a year in many ways.
There have been challenges for sure, but one noteworthy positive is the amount of women raising their voices, playing their part in encouraging and supporting diversity. If I have learned anything this year, it is that many times in life a person might feel like they took two steps forward only to be pushed 3 back, but it’s important to keep moving forward and to be refused to be held down.
As we march into 2018, let us pledge to keep moving forward and to support women who fight the good fight for representation and diversity.
Here are some women who do that. Look out for them in 2018.
photo courtesy of Instagram
Ava DuVernay
Ava DuVernay is everything. This writer, producer, director, and independent film distributor is making strides by kicking down doors and taking other powerful women along for the ride with her. The co-writer and director of 13th, the acclaimed 2016 documentary that explored the American prison system and how it highlights the racial inequities of the country, won 29 awards including 4 Emmys. She was nominated 41 times total.
Ava also directed Selma, a historical drama that was nominated for a Best Picture Oscar in 2015. In 2017, her directorial work has included the ratings sensation Queen Sugar; 2018 will bring the highly anticipated 103 million dollar blockbuster and Disney fantasy epic, A Wrinkle in Time. She was named one of Fortune Magazine’s 50 Greatest World Leaders this year and is the founder of Array, a grassroots distribution and advocacy collective dedicated to the amplification of films by people of color and women. She is a champion of women and minorities and rocks a head full of luscious locs that make me green with envy. I cannot wait to see all the ways in which Ava fights for and inspires us.
“Be passionate and move forward with gusto every single hour of every single day until you reach your goal” – Ava DuVernay
photo courtesy of Instagram
Jessica Williams
28-year-old atress and producer who gifted us with Netflix original, The Incredible Jessica James, Williams is the youngest ever senior correspondent on The Daily Show when she was just 22. Currently, she’s working on Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald, which has been said to be one of the most anticipated films of 2018. With a fun wit, Jessica has the type of personality that jumps out at you — but as with everything in life, there were challenges even during her most successful year. I think we can all relate to that fact.
“It’s impossible to be perfect, and you won’t do a good job if you’re too focused on proving yourself to others. – Jessica Williams
photo courtesy of Instagram
Issa Rae
Issa Rae is an actress, writer, producer, director and web series creator who became known to many as the creator and star of the YouTube series, Awkward Black Girl. In 2017, Issa, a self-identifying awkward introvert, became a Covergirl and is one of the faces of their latest campaign, I Am What I Make Up. Issa is the first black woman to create and star in a premium cable series with her HBO series, Insecure. However, Issa is no overnight sensation; she has worked hard and exemplifies the idea that if you have a dream you should start where you are. Create your own opportunities and use the resources you have now because no one ever accomplishes anything by waiting. Once you start, good things will happen. Issa is now a Covergirl because she used YouTube as the platform to her dreams and look where she is now!
“I’ve always identified as awkward and an introvert and things like that, so to be the face of a beauty campaign that really uplifts other women… especially this campaign… The variety of women just feels special. This is something that I never expected. I’m excited and honored to even be thought of, given how I’ve learned over the years to love and appreciate myself.” Issa Rae
photo courtesy of Instagram
Rihanna
Robin Rihanna Fenty is a style icon and free spirit with a massive global following. She’s also been hugely successful not only in the entertainment industry, but in her fashion and beauty endeavors as well. Having conquered music, acting, and fashion, Rihanna set her sights on makeup and in 2017 she released her makeup line, Fenty Beauty, amidst breathless anticipation and to overwhelmingly positive reviews. If YouTube is any indication, Fenty Beauty is a fan favorite and phenomenal and the world and Fenti-verse are looking forward to her continued domination in 2018. Always known to be unapologetic and true to herself, Rihanna has given us yet another lesson in 2017 on self-confidence.
“Don’t hide from who you are.” – Rihanna
photo courtesy of Instagram
Janelle Monae is a singer, record producer, Covergirl model, and actress known for her quirky hairstyles and love of minimalistic yet edgy black and white wardrobe. Seriously — no one does black and white better than Monae, but that is just one of the many things she does well. In 2017, we got see her acting chops on full display in two of the most successful films of 2017, Moonlight and Hidden Figures. As a consequence, we also got to see Monae’s black and white fashion choices on the red carpet of the most prestigious award shows and she did not disappoint. As a fan, I can’t wait to see not just what Janelle wears next but to see her in more acting roles as well. It will be very interesting to see what’s next for this truly talented female.
“I feel myself becoming the fearless person I have dreamt of being. Have I arrived? No. But I’m constantly evolving and challenging myself to be unafraid to make mistakes.” Janelle Monae
Who are the women you are looking forward to seeing in 2018?
Please share below who we missed!
Are you considering a change in your hair color, but are uncertain about how to dye hair at home?
You are not alone.
Fall is a perfect time and a popular time at that to consider a change of color, although the process can be daunting. For one thing, there are so many brands and shades that it can take a lot of research to decide on the perfect one for you. And then, your final hair color almost never seems to end up looking like the color of the lady smiling up at you from the box. It is enough to make you want to tear your hair out, but then you’d be bald and no closer to your dream color. Here are some do’s and don’ts, in no particular order, to help ensure success the next time you dye your hair at home.
Do…
Start with healthy hair
This is very important as your color will look better and your hair will feel better and respond better throughout the process and after. Hair that has been colored requires a lot of maintenance so you should be willing to spend the time necessary to give your hair all the nourishment it needs to remain healthy during the process. Use color safe cleansing products, like the Ouidad Superfruit Renewal Clarifying Cream Shampoo, and avoid sulfates as they will strip the color from your hair quicker than it would otherwise fade.
Find your hair color inspiration
Trusting the model’s hair color on the box can lead to serious disappointment; a real-life example is the best way to figure out how the color will look on you. Look online for someone with your skin tone as this is likely to be more helpful in figuring out how the hair color will compliment yours. Once you have found your hair inspiration and research the products they used to achieve your goal color, you are one step closer towards having a successful hair coloring experience. Reach out to them to find out how they achieved their hair color and what, if any advice they have to offer you. You should also seek the color range chart on the top of the box that shows what your results should be from different starting points.
Trusting the model’s hair color on the box can lead to serious disappointment
Seek out information
Read the instructions included in your kit. I know, it can seem like an unnecessary delay when you are so excited to get your new color, but knowing how to dye hair at home and any specifics that relate to the products you are using will be helpful to you and is critical for success.
Get yourself two boxes of color
Unless your hair is fairly thin or shorter than shoulder-length, one box of color is unlikely to be sufficient. Do not use metal containers or utensils for mixing. The “no metal” rule also applies to any hair clips or bobby pins you might need to use. Be prepared; use plastic containers and accessories while dyeing your hair.
Work in sections
Curlies are adept at working in sections and are aware of the reasons it is beneficial for us to do so. Working in sections will ensure complete coverage and prevent patchiness in your dyed hair. Start at your nape, working your way towards the front. Your hair texture matters — curly, frizzy hair tends to already be porous and absorbs color quicker than straighter, finer textures. Make sure to not over-process your hair or the final color will not be what you wanted.
Condition your hair after coloring
No curly would ever forget or choose not to condition her hair after using hair dye — that’s just not how we roll! When it comes to dyeing our hair, our penchant for conditioning is definitely a good thing. This will close the cuticles of and terminate the coloring process. If you skip this step, the cuticles will remain open and the hair color will keep working. This will result in your hair becoming darker than intended.
Do not…
Skip the sensitivity test before using hair color
Whether this is your first time coloring your hair at home or your tenth, you must not skip this very necessary step. It is possible to develop allergies at any time, so doing the doing the allergy patch test is necessary each and every time you dye your hair.
Dyeing your hair?
Shop our SHOPNaturallyCurly color boutique here.
Having heat and color damaged hair is no fun.
Curly hair can be challenging enough even when hair is totally healthy, so adding any kind of damage, whether from heat, environmental exposure or bleaching, is sure to up the difficulty level by at least a hundred.
Trying to repair fried hair can be a painstaking process and may take many weeks (or even months”> to undo, but be patient and try to manage your expectations. There is every reason to believe that your hair will be healthy again given lots of love and time.
Heat damage
Heat damage is literally the bogeyman of the natural hair community and using heat improperly is one of the quickest ways for healthy hair to become fried hair. This explains why so many naturals are deathly afraid of it and avoid the use of heat styling tools or are very conservative when doing so. It can be heartbreaking to go through heat damage, but all is not lost.
According to Nadling Pollard of Salon Pressure in Chicago, it may be possible to undo heat damage provided that the damage is not severe. However, this is not always feasible. Any strands of your curly hair that has been irreversibly damaged will remain straight and unless you plan to transition from heat damage over time, your best bet is to trim and move on. Prevention is always better than trying to fix the problem after the fact, and this is ever more so in the case of heat damage. Ensure you use a heat protectant product such as Cantu Therma Heat Protectant to prevent damage before it happens, and follow these tips for safely straightening your hair.
Environmental damage
The environment in which we exist can play a role in the overall health of our hair. Extremes in temperature can dry our hair out severely and hard water will not only affect the look and feel of one’s hair, but will also impact how well products are absorbed and by extension how well they work on our hair. Deep condition your hair frequently if you are in the sun a lot or if you are frequently in extremely hot or extremely cold conditions. If your products suddenly stop working for your hair, test your water to see if it could be the culprit and use a filter if it is. Combat dryness brought on by environmental factors by using a deep conditioner such as MYHoneyChild Olive You Deep Conditioner.
Bleach damage
Bleach (hydrogen peroxide”> is used to lighten hair, but that’s not all it does. Bleach opens the cuticles of the hair in order to allow pigment molecules to enter the shaft and change the color of the hair. Open cuticles result in hair that is constantly and rapidly losing moisture. This leaves the hair dry, weak, inelastic, and brittle. You will need to stay on top of your regular trims because bleached hair is likely to suffer many of split ends as the integrity of the strand is weakened during the bleaching process. You will need to repair the hair’s integrity and restore its moisture content in order to restore health. Curly Hair Solutions Treatment Shampoo is a great product for color treated hair because it helps to restore the hair’s elasticity and maintain color vibrancy for a longer period of time so that you’ll need to subject your hair to the bleaching process less often.
Have an aggressive plan of attack
Pay attention as you embark on your rehabilitation journey so that you can see how your hair responds to the methods and products you employ. Follow these general steps to undo any damage that may have been done to your hair.
- Trim split ends for any area that has thinned and feathered significantly.
- Use a protein treatment to help restore the hair’s protein structure that has been broken down.
- Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment Follow your protein treatment with deep conditioning moisture treatments to counter the moisture loss.
- Use pH balanced products to encourage the hair’s cuticle to close. Apple cider vinegar rinses are also helpful for this. Closed cuticles also reduce frizz and increase shine.
- Layer your products on to encourage moisture into the hair.
- Seal your moisturizers in using oils.
- Be patient. The road to recovery is long, but your hair will recover given time and care.
How do you deal with heat damage?
Share with us how you nursed your hair back to health and how long it took you to do so in the comments below.
Image by iStock/AND-ONE
It is quite common for most naturals with 4c hair to experience extreme shrinkage—70% or more—which makes it appear much shorter than it actually is. When 4c hair is in its natural state, freshly washed, mostly dry and without product, a defined curl is usually not evident. Tight 4c coils also make for an extremely dense head of hair that easily becomes tangled, and typically lacks natural luster.
The three separating factors of type 4c natural hair
1. Tight coils that with a high degree of shrinkage 2. Low level of moisture retention 3. High risk for breakage and split endsThe tightness of 4c coils provides all the characteristics that set it apart from other hair types. It also results in thin strands of hair that are extremely vulnerable and prone to damage and breaking. Caring for 4c hair requires a lot of patience and tender, loving care. However, once you figure out what works for your hair, caring for it becomes no more difficult than caring for any other hair type.
Fighting shrinkage and tangles
Shrinkage leads to tangles, as does the number of twists and turns (coils”> there are in each strand. The more twists and turns there are on each strand, the more opportunity there is for each coil to tangle and knot with neighbouring strands.
One popular way of countering this is by keeping 4c hair stretched in sections, or in a protective style, using heat-free methods like banding. The crown of my hair is type 4c, so I tend to see a meshing at the roots in this area if I keep my mini twists in for too long. Because the roots of the twists loosen over time and new growth comes in, it becomes easier for strands of hair from the base of different twists to knot up.
Remember to keep hair moisturized when it is in a protective or low-manipulation style. Rocking a twist-out or braid-out is another good option if you still want to wear your ends out.
They keep the hair stretched, thereby minimizing the risk of tangles, andfighting shrinkage. If done right, a twist-out or braid-out has the added bonus of providing curl definition and elongation to tightly coiled strands for days on end.
Keeping your type 4c hair moisturized
Type 4c natural hair strands make it difficult for the natural oils secreted by the scalp to make it from the roots to the tips of the hair. In turn, this texture is more prone to dryness than others. Keeping the proper moisture balance allows hair to be more elastic, and less brittle, meaning less breakage.
Pay particular attention to your ends when applying a moisturizer, and do not forget to seal your moisturizer into the hair by using an oil, butter, or gel. Get on a deep conditioning routine to provide your hair with the necessary hydration boost. Some naturals choose to do this after each wash, but do what works best for your hair’s density and porosity.
Keep hair strong by treating with protein
Extreme shrinkage and a predisposition for tangles make it very easy for 4c hair to break.
One half of the equation for preventing breakage is by keeping hair moisturized. The other half is to keep it strong by ensuring that its protein structure is intact. Protein treatments help to strengthen the hair, and fill in any gaps that exist in the hair strand, making it less likely to break.
Healthy hair has a correct balance of protein and moisture; without the right balance, weakened natural hair will break. You will not typically need to use a protein treatment every time you wash your hair, unless you are experiencing extreme breakage. And if that is the case, it may be time for a trim. Listen to your hair, and you’ll likely notice when your hair needs that extra bit of strengthening. Over time, you’ll learn the frequency that works best for you, and be able to fine tune your regimen.
Remember, Rome wasn’t built in a day
A natural hair journey is not a sprint; it is a marathon. Pace yourself, and know that you are in it for the long haul. With a little patience, trust that the reward will come sooner than later. Do you have type 4c hair? If so, what are some tips you’ve learned along the way to help grow and strengthen your kinks and coils? Share them with us below!
This article was originally published in 2016 and has been updated.Winter can be a really trying–and very drying–time. You may have be spending more time indoors than you would like due to cold temperatures and as a result of the season, you have to deal with more itching, dryness and peeling on your hair and skin.
Neither protein nor moisture can work well without the other, and finding the right balance between these two is critical for maintaining healthy hair.
Why Your Natural Hair Needs a Moisture-Protein Balance
Many naturals think of moisture and protein as conflicting forces when in reality, they are more like the two sides of one coin. There is a unique relationship between moisture and protein within the hair and the hair needs both to be healthy. Neither protein nor moisture can work well without the other, and finding and maintaining the balance between these two is critical for achieving and maintaining healthy hair.
The relationship between protein and moisture is, as stated above, a synergistic one. If you think just think about it for a minute, you will understand these characteristics about your hair in its natural state:
- hair that is porous and has a compromised cuticle layer
- it has difficulty staying moisturized
- it benefits from the having its cuticle layer reinforced with added protein so that moisture has a better chance of remaining in the hair.
We often think that breakage results when hair is dry or lacking moisture.
While this is true, breakage can also result from a lack of protein, in which case, finding the actual cause can sometimes pose a challenge. To find out the problem you need to thoroughly look into your regimen to see what may be lacking or excessive. We often think it is impossible for our natural hair to be over-moisturized, but it can and does happen. This is especially true for hair that can be constantly wet — if we co-wash frequently without allowing the hair to dry between washes — as well as deep conditioning overnight, avoiding products that contain protein, or relying too much on the baggy method.
Hair that is overloaded with moisture and conditioner will be extremely elastic.
Thankfully, it is easily fixable — a single protein treatment is usually able to correct the issue and restore balance. A stronger protein treatment should be followed with a moisturizing conditioner to ensure that hair regains an appropriate amount of elasticity post protein treatment.
If your hair has too much protein, take the following steps:
1. Clarify your hair.
2. Deep condition with heat once or twice a week (depending on the severity of your particular problem”>.
3. Moisturize your hair daily, focusing on your ends.
4. Avoid using products that provide excess protein to the hair (such as hair gels”>. You don’t need to swear off protein entirely, but be aware of the products you’re using and whether or not they contain protein in order to help correct the problem.
How to determine if your hair needs protein or moisture
-
Balanced hair: when stretched, wet or dry hair will extend a bit before returning to its original length without breaking.
-
Too much protein: when stretched, wet or dry hair will extend a little more than usual then break.
-
Too much moisture: wet or dry hair will stretch and stretch without breaking. Hair feels limp, weak, gummy or mushy. Hair is in need of light protein.
-
When in doubt, add moisture: if your hair, wet or dry stretches very little or not at all before breaking you need moisture
To sum it up
If your hair is rough, brittle, hard or if you are unsure what your hair needs, give it moisture. Remember that your hair is made up primarily of protein and a proper protein structure is required for water molecules to bind with and to also help keep water locked inside the strands. It can be a challenge to correct an imbalance between protein and moisture, however, as long as close attention is paid to your hair and regimen, finding and correcting any issues becomes much easier.Having a hard time finding a balance in your routine?
It may be time for a new protein treatment. Visit Shop NC for our list of recommendations.
Hate her or love her, Beyoncé is a legend.
She’s the type of celebrity that not only lay people worship, but other celebrities worship as well. I am by no means a Beyoncé stan — part of “The Beyhive” — and I am a more casual observer of her talent and influence. Still, when I heard of and saw the backless baseball cap her Ivy Park line recently released my appreciation grew into something much more meaningful.
Beyoncé has quietly used her brand and influence to support the work and causes of the black community.
And it hasn’t been in a “Look at me!” kind of way, but in a way that provides opportunities for other black creatives while remaining humble. Beyoncé hires photographers, poets and other professionals of color to work with her which not only gives them a salary, but introduces them to other people and potential clients who would otherwise never have seen their work, as well. Whenever Beyoncé releases photos on her website, people pay attention. Articles are written dissecting every image and the lucky photographer gets publicity in the process as well. Many fans see Beyoncé as a champion of the black female and the black female experience so make no mistake about it, this baseball cap as yet another example of Beyoncé’s reaching down from her great heights to bless the afro-wearing community with a baseball cap that can do their hair justice.
The response to this baseball cap has been bananas, which is no surprise given the way people generally react to anything Beyoncé does.
People cannot stop gushing over it and to some extent, I believe it is perfectly right to do so. It was and is a genius idea, so simplistic in its design that you wonder why no one had thought of it before. I wonder why I never thought of it before. The Twitter reactions highlight the fact that The Beyhive is as devoted as ever, but they also point out that even as companies move to tap into the purchasing power of the natural hair community in particular and women of color in general, there is still a long way to go.
And, underneath all of this, is the argument that many traditional, mainstream companies seek to exploit us.
They are simply here to get their piece of the pie and are not in any way invested in thinking about the unique needs of this community and meeting these needs. None of these companies have given to us like Beyoncé just gave to us and no one can give to us better than we can give to ourselves.
The baseball cap is completely sold out. Not only is the cap backless, it is also velvet (which is very on trend right now”>. Beyoncé’s Ivy Park is an athleisure line that is infinitely more wearable than most celebrity lines and that sets it apart. Now with this backless baseball cap, Ivy Park has hit a home run and I, for one, cannot wait to see what they come out with next. The only thing that could make this baseball cap better: if it is satin lined. If it is, I may just lose my mind.
Would you rock this?
Comment below and let us know if you intend to purchase Ivy Park’s new baseball cap.
Want to change your life? Change your hair.
I know that cutting your hair off can be a traumatic experience if it’s not something you are at peace with, but, when done after careful consideration, shaving your head can be the wind that causes you to soar with pride and confidence. We make all kinds of important decisions on a daily basis, but they are often made within the confines in which we are bound by society. Whether it’s work rules or societal norms, pressure is placed on us to act in a certain manner. This is probably why we feel so liberated when we cut our hair.
We get to be in total control. It is our choice and it goes against the rules. The rules that say women should have lots of hair on their heads. Rules that say the longer your hair is the more feminine you are. Cutting our hair is our declaration. “I am woman. Hear me roar!
For a few years now, the tapered cut has been all the rage in the natural hair community. We watched as many brave women eagerly exchange their locks, usually of enviable lengths for shorter tapered looks. Prior to that, cutting the hair short or doing a second big chop was seen as a last resort and something that should only be done when damage is irreparable. We are and have always been obsessed with long hair. But these brave souls showed us that cutting your hair can just be a fun and adventurous part of a hair journey. As the tapered cut becomes more and more common place, the shaved head has emerged as the next step in being daring. So, you know what…I dare you. I dare you to just do it. Be inspired by some of the brave women, some famous and some not, who have gone before you. We are strong. We are invincible. We are women.
Amandla Stenberg @amandlastenberg
In a previous article, I outlined a few things every curly teen could learn from @amandlastenberg. When it comes to hair, maybe we should all take a page from Amandla’s book.
Solange Knowles @saintrecords
As one of the women who did it first Solange is a trendsetter. Full stop.
Shameless Maya @mayasworld
Maya shaved her head over 4 years ago, and to date her video showing the head shaving moment has received over 2.2 million views. Maya is currently re-growing her hair but her famous slogan “Do you, boo” are empowering words to live by.
Lupita N’yongo @lupitanyongo
Lupita is nothing short of amazing. She has rocked her low, type 4 natural hair on every stage, including major award shows. Her success in Hollywood has been achieved without her denying her roots or heritage. Hopefully, being herself in an industry that is all about appearance can inspire the rest of us to be who we are as well.
Mel Burgos @rock_yo_rizos
Mel shaved all her curls off in 2016 as part of a life reset. Here’s what she had to say when yours truly asked her why she decided to take this action.”I decided to chop off all my hair because it was time to start over.I was experimenting with different hair colors–which damaged my hair–but also, ultimately, I was transitioning as a person. I felt like I wanted to start from scratch and not bring any old energy into that process.” – Mel Burgos
Alexandra Shipp @alexandrashipppp
Alexandra shaved her head for her role as Storm (X-Men Apocalypse”>, updating the character previously played by Halle Berry. Here’s what Alexandra said about her experience shaving her head.”it was a beautiful surprise, for me. I just have always wanted to shave my head. I think every woman should just do it once in her lifetime. It is so liberating. It is like the world is coming off of your shoulders. It’s amazing and showers are like three minutes. I can get dressed and sweatpants look chic. And people think I’m a total badass and I’m super tough. I feel like a bit of a pit bull.” – Alexandra Shipp
Jennifer Hudson @iamjhud
In 2015, the singer and actress took the plunge and buzzed her hair off. She captioned one of the pics showing the cut with, “Who needs hair when u serving face!” I totally agree
Ezinne @ezylivin
Ezinne recognizes the importance of self-love and confidence, and that includes everything from her “beauty mark” gap in her teeth to embracing her shaved head. We could all learn a thing or two about embraing our natural beauty from Ezinne.
Have you ever thought about rocking the bald look and shaving your head? Let us know in the comments!
Did your dad ever do your hair? Mine never did but, if my mom hadn’t been around, I’m pretty sure he would have. I grew up in a two-parent household and when I was younger I was a total daddy’s girl. My memories of childhood include eagerly waiting for my dad to come home every night and present me with gifts. Some big other small. The first gift I can remember ever getting from anyone was a pair of acid wash jeans from my dad and even now I remember how special I felt and how happy that gift made me. One of the things I would do when I was younger was make sure I fell asleep on the couch because then my dad would pick me up and take me to bed when he came home. I would wake up in bed and know that my dad had lifted me and put me there and that made me happy.
A bond between a little girl and her dad is a special one.
Growing up even though my dad would be the disciplinarian, he was also my ‘favorite’ parent. I loved my mom but we clashed all the time. She was also the one who would ‘rat’ me out to dad whenever I did something wrong. After my mom and I stopped living in the same house we became super close and after I became a mom, our bond grew stronger still, but I am still that little daddy’s girl at heart. This is one of the reasons why I was so pleased to find out about an animated movie called Hair Love being developed by former NFL player and now movie director, Matthew A. Cherry, about a black father named Stephen attempting to style the natural hair of his daughter, Zuri. A Kickstarter campaign to raise the $75,000 required to create the film has been launched. (As of August 8th, the campaign has raised nearly $239,000 by 4,099 backers.”>
The project is gaining quite a bit of attention already, in part because it is attempting to show there are black fathers involved in the lives of their children in meaningful ways, which is something not often highlighted about the black male.
“I’m not a father yet, but I think you should respect women regardless of your connection to them,” noted Cherry in an interview with Refinery29. “So, the importance of this is pretty obvious. Anytime a father can be in his child’s life, that’s a beautiful thing.”
Cherry knows the importance of hair in the black community and is aware that little black girls are surrounded by European standards of beauty to which they do not adhere. Hair Love is his contribution to the cause of helping black girls take pride in themselves and their natural hair by giving them an animated character that looks like they look. He also wants to help counter the notion that black men aren’t good fathers.
Cherry continued, “This year, I really started seeing more people sharing videos of Black fathers doing stuff with their kids. I think a reason why all these black father and daughter videos were hitting was because of what society has put out there. People think Black men aren’t in their kids’ lives — so when people do see the videos, they look at these as an anomaly. On one hand I am happy seeing these videos, but on the other hand, it made me sad because I knew that a reason that these videos were going viral was because people didn’t think that was normal.”
To sum it up
Whether or not you think that the concept of a father doing his daughter’s hair is normal, it certainly would not hurt for people to realize that there are great black fathers out there. Furthermore, if seeing little black girls in film can help black girls love themselves, then for sure seeing positive images of black fatherhood can inspire more black men to embrace fatherhood and strive to be positive forces in the lives of their children. Representation matters and for through Hair Love, Mr. Cherry is trying to do his part. We should all be sure to do ours and support projects like these in whatever ways we can. This doesn’t need to be financial. We can contribute to the greater good by spreading the word on our social channels or having open discussions with our friends and family. And when films like these are made, we should watch them so that their impact can be felt.
Click here to support Hair Love.
Watch NC editors Devri and Cristina attempt to walk our dads through a hairstyle tutorial below:
I have welcomed the invitation to regulate the industry as it encourages natural hair care practitioners to constantly update their skills and business practices, which is good for them, their clients and ultimately to our extended community as a business model.
There aren’t that many stylists out there who can cut curly hair (whether they admit that or not is another thing, entirely”>. Most of us have our own horror stories as evidence of this, whether it’s a botched haircut, a too-tight style, or just the general sense that the stylist really had no clue what they were doing – we have all been there, or we know someone who has. Finding a salon with a curly specialist taking residence ends up being a big challenge for many curlies, but once they find they are faced with another challenge: the fact that curly hair cuts will set you back a pretty penny.
Nadra Smiley, the Executive Director of Evolving Textures & Natural Look Academy, graciously agreed to share her thoughts about the issues surrounding natural hair care and costs. Her passion for the topic is evident.
“Natural styles have come a long way from the intimate expression of cultural affection and utility between black women and men. Today, it’s a business that allows black people to pursue their entrepreneurial passions in a most authentic manner. As a business, contemporary natural hair care providers have invested many dollars and hours in their education. Increasingly, states have sought to regulate this home-grown industry, and with that comes the responsibility for industry standard-bearers to exercise thought-leadership on everything from sanitation to protective techniques. I have welcomed the invitation to regulate the industry as it encourages natural hair care practitioners to constantly update their skills and business practices, which is good for them, their clients and ultimately to our extended community as a business model.
Why are curly haircuts so expensive? Why do salons charge so much to style natural hair?
An article on the blog Klassy Kinks recently gave a voice to frustrations that many naturals feel when trying to find a local stylist who is competent enough to handle and style their hair and the cost, “There is no reason someone should be paying twice as much for double-strand twists than a flat iron. Heck, at some braiding places, getting braids or twists installed with extensions (which is much more time and labor intensive”> costs less than getting braids or twists installed without extensions! This is very much the case here in Harlem, where I reside, and it makes absolutely no sense.”
In the comment section, a handful of stylists responded to defend the reasons behind their pricing structure. Klassy Kinks went on to publish a follow-up article in which stylists explained their pricing.
The factors that stylists take into consideration when setting their prices include, but are not limited to:
- cost of training
- time
- equipment
- rental cost
- cost of products
Training and certification
Most cosmetology schools still do not provide textured hair training as part of the base curriculum. They teach students how to relax it and how to blow it out, but not how to work worth it. Aspiring textured hair specialists make an additional investment for this training, licensing, and certification, and therefore, it is understandable that these costs factor into the cost for their services. Some stylists may also increase their service fees after a new certification is added to their resume.
Time
The time spent on a head of hair depends on many things such as density, length and curl pattern so again it is understandable that this should factor into pricing. However, this alone does not account for the price differences for natural hair styles and natural haircuts that require the same amount of time spent in the stylist’s chair as straight hairstyles.
Many naturals believe that having curly hair is just an excuse for stylists to charge more. If we both spend an hour getting a haircut, but you are a type 3 natural and I am a type 4 natural, should I be charged more? If yes, how much more? Would the difference be comparable to that of cutting type 2 and 3 hair? There’s an obvious gray area which lends itself to the controversial nature of the topic.
Booth rental
There is a cost associated with the rental of the salon which must be factored into the overall cost of service. This should be the same regardless of the type of hair being styled.
Equipment
Yes, stylists need to purchase the equipment that they use in the practicing their trade, but is there really a difference between the equipment you need for straight hair and curly hair? If you can think of a piece of equipment that is used exclusively on curly hair, then do let me know.
All things considered…
Some stylists will charge someone with natural hair more for two hours of their time than they charge someone with relaxed hair. It’s the same booth rental cost, tools, and length of time spent, so why the big difference in price? Even if a stylist seeks out supplemental training in the styling of curly hair after getting their license, does this warrant price differences that are two to three times more? For sure, stylists should be paid what their service deserves. They have bills just like we do, but in my personal opinion there seems to be something amiss in the cost structure at some salons and it’s not fair that wearing your natural texture makes you a target for overpricing, be it for a haircut or a wash and blow dry. It seems that this is a view held by other naturals as textured hair care has largely been taken into DIY territory.
Michelle Breyer, NaturallyCurly Co-Founder, is passionate about the topic of the shortage of textured hair experts, she recently wrote “Yes, we have plenty of amazing products for curls, coils and waves. Yes, we’re seeing celebrities and models wearing gorgeous natural styles. But in 2016, most stylists still don’t know how to work with texture. In fact cosmetology schools still don’t teach their students about how to work with texture. You heard me right. Stylists can leave school without knowing how to work with the hair that more than 60 percent of the population is born with. That’s not to say that there aren’t stylists versed in working with curls and coils. In fact, there are a growing number of texture experts.” Finding a stylist is still a major challenge for many women and men with textured hair, and finding one who is affordable is an added barrier.
What has your experience with salon costs been?
Next: This is Why Hairstylists are Losing Clients
Despite the name, Dragon’s Blood is not the life-sustaining liquid from prehistoric, fire-breathing, beasts.
Also called Sangre de Drago, it is the red, blood-like resinous sap obtained from the Croton lechleri tree found in the South America’s Amazon Rainforest.
Rich in taspine, Dragon’s Blood is a must-have staple in many South American households; it is widely used to address skin concerns such as cuts, bruises, rashes, insect bites, abrasions, and burns. Taspine is known for its skin regeneration and healing properties. It stops bleeding quickly and seals wounds. Dragon’s blood is also widely regarded as one of the world’s most powerful antioxidants. This powerful antioxidant also possesses antiviral, antifungal, antibacterial and other properties which are all a part of the reason that Dragon’s blood is so revered. When applied to the skin, Dragon’s blood creates a slight lather. Despite its bright red color, when rubbed into the skin, it readily disappears after losing its color a little bit.
When applied to the skin, Dragon’s blood creates a slight lather. Despite its bright red color, when rubbed into the skin, it readily disappears after losing its color a little bit.
As mentioned above, taspine is a known healing agent for tissues and its antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activity makes Dragon’s Blood highly effective in the treatment of a wide range of skin issues and infections. There are many other naturally occurring compounds present in Dragon’s Blood which are widely known due to past extensive studies that have been done on these compounds, one being proanthocyanidins, which help to repair collagen. This is one of the reasons Dragon’s Blood is such a powerful anti-aging ingredient. It also contains many anti-inflammatory agents to make it effective in reducing swelling and redness.
Benefits of Dragon’s Blood
To date, Dragon’s blood has been primarily utilized in skin care products. However, as it’s popularity grows and more and more people become aware of its benefits we are likely to see that change. SheaMoisture created a new line of products which not only seeks to provide benefits to the skin but also to the hair and scalp.
A healthy scalp is also the foundation of healthy hair, so this ingredient will likely improve the rate of your hair growth, too. Using hair and scalp products containing Dragon’s Blood will result in a fertile and healthy place from which your hair can now grow.
Some other benefits and uses of Dragon’s Blood that are not mentioned above:
-
it reduces swelling and helps heal infections caused by acne
-
it minimizes scarring
-
it lightens sun spots
-
it shrinks skin tags and moles
-
it helps minimize the itching of psoriasis and eczema
Have you tried the new SheaMoisture Dragon’s Blood line of products?
What’s your experience been? Let us know in the comment section below.
Read Can this flower prevent hair loss and stimulate natural hair growth?