Search Results: Tonya McKay

It seems that naturally curly folks have a love/hate relationship with glycerin. There is a lot of information, and misinformation, about this seemingly simple substance. I thought I’d shed some light on the chemical makeup of glycerin and how it affects curly hair specifically.

So, what is it

Glycerin is an alcohol, known also by the chemical names glycerol and 1,2,3, propane triol. It can be obtained via hydrolysis of naturally occurring plant or vegetable fats (triglycerides”> or via chemical synthesis from petrochemicals. It is a conditioning alcohol similar to other conditioning alcohols, but it has three very hydrophilic hydroxyl (-OH”> groups as opposed to a single one. Because of this, glycerin is far more water soluble than some of the other conditioning alcohols such as lauryl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

Glycerol has been used for many years in cosmetics and personal care, and has been found to be a remarkable moisturizer for the skin and hair. In fact, new studies have shown that it has amazing abilities to actually aid in repair and regeneration of skin cells.

Chemical structure of glycerol

Glycerol obtained from naturally occurring fats is a product of chemically breaking down triglyceridesinto their fatty acid components. Triglycerides are fat molecules comprised of a glycerol backbone with three arm-like appendages of fatty acids bound to the glycerol via an ester linkage. These three fatty acid chains can all be the same exact molecule (such as stearic acid”>, or can all be different from one another (one stearic, one lauric, one palmitic – for example”>. Hydrolysis of the ester bond results in the production of glycerol and three fatty acid molecules.

Glycerin can come from multiple natural sources because triglycerides can be derived from animals or vegetables. Some examples of vegetable sources would be coconut oil and shea butter. Typically, if you are purchasing glycerin, the label will say if it is from a vegetable source of glycerin. However, a multi-ingredient finished product may not disclose the source of glycerin (animal, vegetable, or synthetic”> unless it is a marketing point for the brand.

Synthetic glycerin has received some publicity as being a potential health hazard, and many consumers prefer to avoid it. It is typically produced from the starting material epichlorohydrin, which is a toxic chemical that is classified as a probable carcinogen. Of concern is the presence of trace remnants of epichlorohydrin or another potentially carcinogenic contaminant such as 1,4 dioxane. So, while synthetic glycerin provides the same benefits to your hair as glycerin derived naturally, there may be sufficient risks associated with it to warrant choosing only vegetable or animal-derived glycerin.

Properties of Glycerin:

Glycerin is an alcohol and is soluble in water and also in other alcohols. It is insoluble in oils, but is able to dissolve many oils and can be used as an emulsifier for adding oils into a formulation. In its pure form, it is odorless and colorless, but has a sweet taste. It has a thick viscosity and is clear, so it is frequently added to formulations for its moisturizing and viscosity-modifying properties. Adding it to a formula is an inexpensive way to impart a thick, velvety texture to a product, a property typically valued by consumers. It is a highly effective moisturizer and humectant for skin and hair. Its thick viscosity and high boiling point are what make it an effective curl-definer and frizz minimizer (in the right climate”>.

Glycerin is a relatively small molecule compared to many moisturizers, and it contains three hydroxyl groups. This high molecular density of hydrophilic groups makes it an extremely hygroscopic molecule that absorbs water from its surrounding environment. It does this to such a high degree that it will raise a blister if applied in an undiluted state to the skin. If it were applied to hair in such a concentrated state, it could strip all of the moisture from the interior of the hair.

However, when used in a diluted form, glycerin can be a great moisturizer and humectant for the hair. Care should be taken to use it in environments of moderate humidity. If the climate is very hot and humid, glycerin will absorb a lot of moisture from the air and cause the hair to swell, raising the cuticle and disrupting curl pattern, creating coarse, frizzy hair. In weather that is extremely dry, glycerin will seek out moisture from your hair and actually dehydrate it, which can cause damage and breakage. Read more about this.

Concerns and precautions

Many heat-styling techniques can generate sufficient heat to boil the water inside the hair shaft, which can cause terrible breakage. One way to prevent or minimize this problem is to coat the hair with an emollient that seals in the moisture and that does not transfer the heat from the appliance to the hair as readily. Unfortunately, glycerin conducts thermal energy pretty efficiently (it transfers heat readily to the hair”>, especially when compared to silicones, proteins, and polyquaternium conditioning ingredients. For that reason, use glycerin sparingly and in combination with a more insulating and protective moisturizer when using any sort of heated drying or styling treatments.

One of the biggest concerns I have seen expressed about glycerin is that it might remove or strip color from the hair. Many people with chemically dyed hair avoid it almost unilaterally. The truth of the matter is that glycerin is a reasonably good solvent for many types of molecules. It can dissolve and grab unbound dye molecules that are easily accessible near the exterior of the hair.

This is relevant in a few different cases. Users of permanent chemical dyes should exercise some caution in the initial days following processing. Hair that has been freshly colored with a permanent chemical dye is susceptible to loss of some colorant molecules because the cuticle may not have completely re-sealed. However, it is not cause for concern after the first washing because the colorant molecules have penetrated into the cortex of the hair shaft, the cuticle is sealed, and any excess on the surface is washed away.

Users of semi-permanent dyes or colors notorious for being short-lived (such as shades of red”> may be wise to be extremely cautious regarding the use of glycerin in their hair. This is because these types of dye molecules are too large to penetrate the hair and reside predominantly on the exterior of the hair shaft. Glycerin can easily dissolve and remove these colors and accelerate the inevitable fading process.

To Sum it Up

Glycerin is a water-soluble conditioning alcohol and is an extremely effective moisturizer and humectant. This means that all the usual things to be aware of regarding humectants, curly hair, and the weather are applicable when using glycerin.

Its viscosity and clarity make it a great ingredient to give definition to curls and to smooth the fly-away hair.

Use it in combination with another conditioning agent if planning to use heat-styling methods.

Do not use glycerin right after using a permanent dye on the hair, and consider avoiding it if you use semi-permanent or red color on your hair.

If you peruse the CurlTalk discussions, you’ll see honey mentioned on numerous threads.

This should come as no surprise, given honey’s long history as a health and beauty ingredient.

The use of honey has been documented throughout human history, with mention found as far back as in various Sumerian tablets. The practice of cultivating bees for the purpose of harvesting their honey was an integral part of ancient Egyptian culture. Honey was widely used in Egypt and Babylon as a hair and skin treatment, in cosmetic mixtures, for medicinal purposes, and as a bath component. Through trading, honey gradually found its way into the lives of humans all around the globe.

During the post World War II era, many natural ingredients typically were replaced by lab-synthesized chemicals, which were touted as being superior to nature and were valued for being “modern.” Recently natural ingredients are experiencing a renaissance. This has driven the cosmetic industry toward the development and marketing of products containing natural ingredients such as honey.

There are many hair and skin-care products being marketed that highlight the inclusion of honey. There are also many recommendations for the use of honey in recipes for home conditioning treatments and rinses for curly hair.

So what’s the real story on honey? What sorts of things should one be aware of when using honey in a hair-care routine?

Chemical Composition of Honey

Honey is composed of a number of ingredients, including such simple sugars as fructose, glucose, and sucrose. Depending upon the source of the honey, there are also trace amounts of various minerals, vitamins, proteins, amino acids, and other nutrients. These small ingredients can provide benefits to the hair.

The water content of honey is quite low, usually between 15-20%, with the remaining 80-85% being mostly a fructose/glucose mixture.

So What Does it Do ?

The sugar molecules that make up the majority of the composition of honey contain several hydroxyl (-OH groups”>, which are extremely hydrophilic and attract water to them from the environment. For this reason, the primary function honey performs when used on hair is to act as a humectant (attracting and binding water to the hair”>. This can be beneficial for some types of hair in some climates. Many users report that their hair feels much softer after using a conditioning treatment containing honey. However, as discussed in previous articles, there can also be drawbacks to using a lot of humectants on curly hair. That’s why it is a good idea to be aware of potential complications that can arise from the use of humectants in certain conditions.

Honey, by itself or used as rinse in an aqueous or vinegar solution, is not sufficient to provide the necessary conditioning properties to curly hair. One of the requirements of a good conditioner is that it smooths the hair surface by flattening the cuticles and filling in bumpy or rough spots. Another requirement is that it provides good lubrication so that adjacent hairs may slide across one another or through a comb without getting tangled, snagged or broken.

Honey, as a solution of sugar molecules, is not capable of providing these properties. Instead it is sticky and bumpy, which can actually increase surface roughness and make hair more prone to tangling or breakage. It is likely that these sticky properties are what attract adjacent hairs together and create improved curl-clumping effects for some users. As the sugar molecules re-crystallize on the hair when it dries, they form a glassy film, which is what can lead to a feeling of stiffness or “crunchiness” to the hair.

One way to obtain the beneficial properties of honey at home is to combine honey with other oils, or to add just a small amount of it to your existing conditioner. Of course, you can also always look for a pre-manufactured product containing honey in its ingredients list.

Hair Lightening?

Many cite the use of honey as a bleaching agent. In a quick review of the chemical composition of honey, this property can seem a bit baffling. However, when exposed to water, small amounts of peroxides are formed with some of the components of honey. These peroxides are responsible for the highlighting and lightening capabilities of honey. As with any other bleaching process, this is indicative of damage being done to the hair, and should be done infrequently and in conjunction with a protein-replacing conditioning routine.

Take-away Message?

Many consumers are really enjoying the results they obtain from using products that contain honey or from using honey mixed with things they can find in their home. I know I notice a positive difference when I use it occasionally on my hair, in conjunction with a good quality conditioner. The main element to keep in mind is that it should not be used as an exclusive replacement for other conditioning products or ingredients. Enjoy using it sparingly, and as a part of a routine that includes some excellent moisturizing products.

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Email your questions to Tonya.

This month I want to address a topic I see pop up on the message boards pretty frequently: use of homemade or diluted products.

I pretty frequently read of products such as hair conditioners or styling products being diluted with water and used as daily leave-in treatments. Many people also enjoy making some of their own products, using natural ingredients such as honey, aloe vera, water, and various oils often found in the kitchen. The results obtained from these can be wonderful. But it is important to exercise a bit of caution regarding spoilage.

Products purchased off the shelf have been very carefully formulated and pretty exhaustively tested in laboratories by microbiologists in order to ensure that the correct amount of preservative is present in order to prevent growth of fungi, mold, and bacteria (sounds yummy, huh?”>. These antimicrobial compounds also act as antioxidants, protecting the chemical stability of the product. The optimal level of preservative per unit volume is calculated and used in order to be just sufficient for that particular bottle in ordinary use conditions for a specific period of time. It is important to not use too much preservative because preservatives themselves can be harmful to humans or cause allergic reactions. Therefore, there is not typically an excess of preservative in most products.

For this reason, when a product is diluted with water (especially tap water”> and placed into a non-sterile container (which is most typical in any household”>, the preservative level is reduced by as much as 100 times or more. This diluted product is then often stored in the hot and damp conditions of a bathroom. These conditions are perfect for the breeding of all sorts of living entities that just love to live in water and eat organic molecules (such as those found in your conditioner”>.

Lacking the inhibition of a safe amount of preservative, microorganisms can grow unchecked and create a genuine health risk for anyone using them. Another potential effect of significantly diminished preservative concentration is degradation of the molecules in the product itself via oxidation from environmental exposure. This can cause development of noxious odors or the formation of potentially dangerous degradation products. At best, it can simply render your product ineffective.

The risk of your being unwittingly exposed to organisms or degradation products is most high when the solution is already cloudy due to the presence of an oil component (such as in a conditioner or styling product”>, which obscures your ability to observe growth at an early stage. Also, due to the presence of fragrance, one might not detect spoilage by smell in the early stages, either. By the time you are able to detect a problem, you could possibly have been applying a contaminated product for a few days.

My recommendation if you like to use diluted conditioner or other products on your hair is to do one of the following (and always with clean hands, boiled water, and a sterilized container”>:

• Make up a small amount of solution daily or every other day.
• Make up enough solution to last for one week and store it in the refrigerator when not in use.
• Make up enough solution to use for 1-2 weeks and add either natural or synthetic preservative drops to it in an amount specified in the literature. (Synthetic preservative mixtures, such as Kathon, can be purchased from a chemistry or cosmetic ingredients source, and natural preservatives such as grapefruit seed extract can be found at most health food stores”>. I would personally still store this mixture in the refrigerator when not in use and discard after a couple of weeks.

The same basic rules would apply when making a natural homemade concoction to treat your hair. If there will be water involved (in other words, it is not a pure oil product”>, then proper precautions regarding sterility and preservation should be taken to ensure your own safety.

Recently, I had a question come into my box I found very interesting. The person was curious why the shampoo she was using still generated lather, despite the fact that it did not contain sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate. I immediately thought “Oh! What a wonderful topic for an article this month!” I thought we could discuss the nature of bubbles, lather, and foam, what causes them to occur, and what ingredients are likely to enhance or minimize their formation.

Imagine my surprise when I started doing a little research to refresh my understanding of bubble formation and found this topic to be an area of much intense research, most of which seemed to be far over my head! Many physicists, astronomers and chemists devote their entire lives attempting to develop a fundamental understanding of bubbles, foam, and lather. So, while feeling a little daunted, I decided to carry on and do my own rudimentary analysis of the subject.

What is a bubble?

A bubble is a ball of gas encapsulated by a microscopically thin film of liquid. The formation of a bubble is made possible by the fact that the surface of a liquid behaves much like a skin. This behavior is due to intermolecular forces.

Water molecules possess a high degree of polarity, due to the presence of two small electropositive hydrogen atoms on one end of the molecule and a single, larger electronegative oxygen atom at the other end. These polar molecules tend to be attracted to one another, and arrange themselves so that there is plenty of dipole-dipole interaction, allowing the hydrogen atoms to align with oxygen atoms, and vice versa.

This phenomenon is known as hydrogen bonding, and while it is technically a physical interaction, the strength of these interactions can be quite high. Hydrogen bonding is responsible for many of the unique properties of water such as its high boiling point, relative to its molecular weight, its relatively high density when in liquid form, and the very interesting fact that it is less dense as a solid than as a liquid.

Within the bulk of the liquid, molecules are in constant motion and are continually encountering one another and then moving into another portion of the liquid. This constant motion means that the dipole-dipole forces exerted on each molecule come from all directions, so the forces are evened out. However, at the air-water interface of a solution, there are not significant levels of intermolecular forces coming from the direction of the air phase. For this reason, the water molecules at the surface experience a much stronger pull in the side-to-side and underneath directions. This has the effect of creating stronger resultant forces (cohesive forces”> between water molecules at the surface, which creates a phenomenon known as surface tension. Surface tension is what creates skin-like behavior at the surface of the water.

So what does all this have to do with bubbles? This surface tension is what makes the formation of bubbles possible. When air (or another gas”> is forced into water (via agitation, blowing, rapid flow from a faucet, or injection via any other means”> and bubbles form, surface tension in the thin layer of liquid that forms the skin of the bubbles draws the bubble tightly into the shape, which has the least surface area to the highest volume (which is a sphere”>, and this is called a minimal surface structure.

Pure water will form bubbles, which I am sure you have noticed when filling a glass of water from the faucet. However, you have probably also noticed that these bubbles don’t stick around for long. This is actually a result of the extremely high surface tension of water, due to all those hydrogen bonding forces. The addition of soap or surfactant molecules to an aqueous solution acts to bring down the surface tension of the water (a phenomenon discussed briefly in other articles I have written for this site”>. By lowering the energy at the air-water contact point, soap molecules act to stabilize this interface. That is why the presence of soap or surfactant molecules in water will act to stabilize bubbles that form.

Soap, Lather and Foam

When there is sufficient soap present to stabilize bubbles, multiple bubbles can begin to meet and come together to form a complex structure called foam.

When three or more bubbles join together, the walls always meet at angles of exactly 120°. Nature can be amazingly precise! Eventually this becomes a complex structure comprised of hexagonal cells, which looks a lot like a beehive. (This type of hexagonal structure is one of very low energy, a state highly favored in nature”>. This conglomerate of bubbles is called foam, which is really all that lather is.

Certain surfactants, due to the simplicity of their structure, very readily form and stabilize bubbles and foams. For this reason, in the formulating world, they are often referred to as foaming agents. They typically produce lots of lather when they are present in a shampoo or skin cleaner and are frequently included in products in order to boost this effect, as it is considered to be desirable by many consumers.

Sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLS and SLES”> are both well-known for producing lots of lather when used in shampoos. These two ingredients are also classified as harsh cleansers, especially for those of us prone to damage done by the effects of stripping oils away from the hair. For this reason, it has become a commonly held belief that foam and lather necessarily correlate with potentially damaging effects.

However, many of the gentler cleansers, such as cocamidopropyl betaine are also used as foam boosters, and will create lather when a product containing them is used to cleanse the hair. While it is true that some of the extremely mild, larger molecule cleansers will only foam minimally or not at all (a fact that is disconcerting to many consumers”>, most surfactants will cause lather formation to some extent. Other ingredients in the shampoo, as well the hardness of water being used will affect foam formation also (most often adversely”>.

It is important when evaluating a shampoo to remember that some foaming and lather formation are actually not indicative of a cleanser being harsh. It is best to avoid products that contain SLS and SLES if your hair is dry and delicate. However, if you choose a shampoo that has an apparently gentle ingredients list, but you still get some lather, fear not! Conversely, if you enjoy a little lather when washing your hair but your gentle shampoo doesn’t do this for you, don’t worry that your hair won’t be clean. Foaming and lather formation are not the main phenomenon by which one should gauge the effectiveness or gentleness of their product.

Sidney Perkowitz, professor of physics at Emory University and the author of “Universal Foam,” describes foams as examples of soft matter: They don’t flow freely like a true liquid, but neither are they a crystalline solid like a diamond. “We’re very good at explaining hard matter like crystals; the entire semiconductor industry is based on them,” he says. “Soft matter seems to tell us a lot more about nature and biology.”

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Email your questions to Tonya.

We get a lot of questions about this strangely-named ingredient: simethicone. What exactly is it, and why is it found in some hair care products? What function does it perform, and is it water soluble? If it isn’t water soluble, what cleanser is required for removal from the hair?

There’s always a lot of confusion surrounding simethicone. It’s name sounds similar to dimethicone, but it is just dissimilar enough as to make it unclear as to what its nature truly us.

Simethicone is a mixture of poly(dimethylsiloxane”>, the silicone known in cosmetics and personal-care products as dimethicone, and silica gel — hence the name: silica + dimethicone, shortened to simethicone.

This mixture is often supplied to personal care product manufacturers as an emulsion, stabilized with nonionic surfactants, pH modifiers, and preservatives. The dimethicone content can be as high as 30 percent of the simethicone mixture, but of course is never at such a high concentration level in the final product. Simethicone is probably most well-known by the consumer as an orally-administered medication with the purpose of reducing gas in the intestinal tract. Many colicky babies are given drops of this over-the-counter medication by desperate, tired mamas. (It may be interesting to note that studies are indicative that this medicine actually produces no change in outcome when compared to giving the baby nothing at all”>.

In hair-care products, such as conditioners, it is used to reduce foaming in a product by minimizing the surface tension of bubbles that are formed by agitation of the container. This minimization of surface tension results in the formation of fewer and larger bubbles, rather than a foamy layer of many densely packed smaller bubbles. The addition of simethicone to product formulations may also modify the viscosity of the product in interesting ways, such as causing the formation of gels when the solution is at rest in the container, but that flow easily when the container is squeezed (think toothpaste and hair gels”>. The dimethicone in the mixture will also deposit onto the surface of the hair and act as an emollient and impart gloss to the hair. Clearly, the addition of simethicone to a product formulation can provide multiple enhancements to product performance.

Now to the part that is really important to all my fellow curly-haired product aficionados. Is simethicone water soluble? Well, unfortunately, the dimethicone portion of the mixture is as water insoluble as ever! So if you are on a low-shampoo or shampoo free routine, and you find yourself using products containing this ingredient, it is important to cleanse your hair periodically with a product containing a mild surfactant, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.

It is my personal belief that even some of the natural, nonionic surfactants are up to the job of removing dimethicone from hair. As always though, it is important to remember that everyone’s hair reacts differently to products due to a variety of factors such as hair type, hair condition, water hardness, and environmental conditions, so you may have to try a few things to find what works best for you!

I hope this article helps bring some clarity to this one tiny portion of the sometimes murky waters of silicone ingredients, mixtures containing silicones, and everything in between.

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Email your questions to Tonya.

Summer is here! As always, we find special challenges for our hair this time of year. Here is a great question from a worried mom about her daughter’s curly hair after a beach vacation.

Q: My daughter has 3c hair and we just came back from a beach vacation. She was swimming every day with a swim cap on (hair in a ponytail/braid”>, and we washed/conditioned only once during the vacation. Her hair is now in a terrible tangle. It is matted where the braid was, and I can not seem to get the snarls out. HELP!!!!

A: Oh my! I know you were both frustrated and upset by this experience. I am sorry we weren’t there to help with this particular incident, but hopefully this information will help your family in the future, as well as others in similar situations – especially as we venture to springs, lakes, pools, and oceans this summer.

Friction between adjacent hairs is always much greater when hair is wet than when it is dry. One reason for this is that water is absorbed into the hair and causes the interior of the hair strand to swell, which creates strain on the hair fiber and weakens its structural integrity. Any sort of external stresses placed on hair in this state can lead to breakage or formation of split ends. For this reason, wet hair should always be treated with the utmost gentleness and care.

This swelling of the hair strand also causes the cuticle scales, which cover the exterior of the hair to lift upward and out of their usual smooth, overlapping structure. This creates a hair surface that is uneven and rough, with individual cuticle scales behaving like tiny barbs or fish hooks against other hair strands. This allows adjacent hair strands to become easily entangled with one another. If not taken care of immediately, the result can be a snarled mess – sometimes irreversible – requiring cutting of the hair.

For this reason, it is critical to protect the hair with conditioner when it is or will be wet. This protective coating can minimize adjacent hairs from becoming entangled with one another and reduce matting. A day at the pool or beach can be a great opportunity to not only protect the hair from the water and sun by applying leave-in conditioner, but also to provide a deep conditioning treatment.

Another thing to keep in mind is that there are many salts and minerals in ocean water that deposit onto the surface of the hair. These are usually hard, crystalline materials, and they create a very rough surface on the hair. This rough exterior is more prone to tangling. This can also increase snarling, possible matting, and inevitably can lead to breakage if the hair is not rinsed daily after exposure to these harsh elements. For this reason, I highly recommend not only rinsing the hair, but washing very gently with a small amount of mild shampoo after a day at the ocean.

Swim caps can protect the hair from sun and the elements, but can really increase tangling and matting. This is especially true for long, curly hair, which should never be piled up on top of the head when wet. I would recommend avoiding them unless you are a regular swimmer. A sun hat or baseball style cap tthat doesn’t scrunch the hair up into a ball is preferable. Also, braids, a ponytail or a bun can be convenient for a day in the water. But I do recommend taking it down at night to rinse, gently wash, and condition the hair.

In the future, if snarling/matting happens to you or your child (which can happen even if every precaution is taken”>, I recommend wetting the hair, gently applying a small amount of gentle shampoo, rinsing and completely soaking it with conditioner. After it sits for a few minutes, the snarled mass can be approached very gently, with a wide-tooth comb. Always begin detangling at the bottom and gently work out snarls one section at a time, gradually working closer to the scalp. It may take rinses and a lot of patience (easier said than done”>, but you will have success without the need for cutting out the matted sections.

Always remember, our curly hair is as delicate as a cashmere sweater and will always respond best to the most careful and gentle handling. Protect it with a lot of conditioner and daily combing. and you’ll be able to fully enjoy your summer.

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Email your questions to Tonya.

As we move into spring and summer — our favorite seasons for fun outdoor activities — we face challenges with our curly hair that are unique to the climate and activities. Here is a great reader question that I will use as a springboard (no pun intended”> to offer some curly hair tips for protecting your curls in warmer, more humid weather. This column is written more from my scientist perspective than an ingredients-chemistry perspective, in case you were wondering!

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Q: All winter, my hair behaved. My hair is thin, but there is lots of it! It loves mousse and a little conditioner. Now that it’s humid, my hair is misbehaving. What do I do? More conditioner? Gel instead of mousse? I like to elongate my curls as much as possible, they can get tight. Any help would be much appreciated!

A: There’s no denying that the change change in seasons can be tough on our hair care routines. Products and processes that were working so well suddenly seem to have the opposite effect. Often, at the heart of these issues is a change in the environmental moisture content (humidity”>. High humidity is especially harsh on curly hair.

The reason for its susceptibility to humidity fluctuations lies in the physical structure of curly hair. Straight hair, undamaged by environmental or treatment factors, has a protective outer layer of cuticle scales that overlap and lie fairly flat against one another. Curly hair, even in very good condition, is much more porous because those cuticle scales do not always lie flat. This porosity allows more water to migrate out of curly hair into the environment in dry weather (not good”>, and also allows more moisture from the environment to migrate into the cortex of the hair strands in humid weather (also not good”>.

Absorption of water into the hair from the environment works to disrupt hydrogen bonds between adjacent hairs, which can diminish curl clumping and definition and lead to flyaway hair and a frizzy appearance. This absorption of moisture can also cause the hair shaft to swell and ruffle up the cuticles a bit, which can lead to tangling, an unpleasant overall texture, and more frizz. Hair strands swollen with water, and with ruffled cuticles because of water absorption, are also more delicate, and can more easily be damaged or broken.

Absorption of water from the air into the central core of each hair strand is much more pronounced in hair that has even greater porosity because of raised or damaged cuticles. Chemical treatments, such as coloring and perming, as well as the use of thermal styling tools (hair dryers, hot rollers, curling irons”> or rough combing or brushing, frequent exposure to sunshine, and even tossing and turning in our sleep can all damage these cuticles and increase the porosity of curly hair.

The process also occurs to a greater extent if the hair needs hydration. For this reason, it is very important to maintain hair in the best condition possible at all times, but especially in warm and humid weather. In warm, wet weather, keep your hair very well-moisturized and use a good leave-in conditioner, but try to avoid using products that include humectants in their ingredients, as these can aggravate problems with humidity-induced frizz. Styling gels seem to perform better in this type of weather than mousse. The polymer styling agents in gels form a nice protective film around the hair, which helps maintain the style throughout the day.

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Curly hair tips for lovely summer locks:

• Trim hair regularly
• Avoid using thermal drying and styling techniques
• Gently finger comb or use a wide-toothed comb on wet hair that is saturated with conditioner
• Be selective about chemical treatments on the hair — minimize the frequency of such processes
• Avoid frequent exposure to direct sunlight — wear a hat or use a leave-in product containing sunscreens for the hair
• Use generous amounts of moisturizing products, both in the shower and as leave-in treatments. (This reduces diffusion of moisture into and out of the hair”>
• Consider using a low-viscosity, easily spreadable hair gel as your primary styling agent for the summer.

Guar and its derivatives are used in many shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. These ingredients always seemed pretty innocuous to me, so I was surprised when I found a few curlies who did not like the performance of products that contained them. It seemed like a good idea to put on my scientific detective cap and delve more deeply into the topic of guar and its derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

What is Guar?

Guar gum is a naturally occurring biopolymer obtained from the seeds of the guar plant (Cyampopis tetragonolobus,”>. Grown in semi-arid regions, this biopolymer belongs to a specific group of polysaccharides known as galactomannans. Guar is a water-soluble polymer due to the presence of many hydroxyl (-OH”> groups along its backbone.

Depending upon its concentration, guar can thicken an aqueous solution considerably, and also has the ability to form gels. For this reason it is often used in shampoos, conditioners, and hair gels as a viscosity modifier (thickener”>. It also has the property of being shear-thinning, which means its viscosity decreases when mechanical shear is applied. The result is that the product can be poured or squeezed out of the container with little force, but it comes out slowly enough to be thick and luxurious. Application to the hair feels smooth and silky, as the shear forces applied allow for easy spreadability. For these reasons, guar is often found in foods as well, such as ice cream, where it increases the viscosity and improves the texture.

Hydroxypropyl Guar

This is a derivative of guar that has been hydrophobically modified by the addition of hydrophobic moieties along the

backbone of the polymer. The typical degree of substitution is not very high because it is undesirable that the molecules become insoluble in water. The addition of these few hydrophobes along the polymer allows it to work as an even more efficient thickener via a mechanism known as hydrophobic interaction. Products using this polymer at very low concentrations are relying upon its ability to provide excellent texture and viscosity modification.

What is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride?

Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (INCI name”>, also known as 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium”>propyl ether chloride by strict organic nomenclature, is a quaternized derivative (cationically modified”> version of the guar polymer. This high molecular weight polymer retains its original structure, but has side groups added along the backbone of the chain that possess a positive charge.

This cationic polymer has all of the thickening capabilities of the original guar gum, but also has the additional benefits of substantivity to keratin (hair protein,”> and improved moisture retention, as well as improved wet and dry compatibility. It has also been found to decrease irritation when used in body washes and shampoos which contain certain anionic surfactants that are known irritants. Another benefit of cationic conditioners is that they tend to resist buildup. They are used at relatively low concentrations in formulations (see Table 1 below,”> because not very much is necessary to achieve the desired effects.

So why do some folks dislike this ingredient?

The reason some curly haired consumers dislike guar and its derivatives may be the same reason others enjoy it. The presence of so many hydroxyl (-OH”> groups along the polymer chain makes it very water soluble, but also makes it an excellent humectant. It can attract water to the hair and retain large quantities of it. In some climates and for some hair, this is a highly desirable trait.

But for other hair types and for those living in hot, humid climates, it can result in frizzy hair with a coarse texture. As with most ingredients, it is necessary to experiment with products to find what works best for your own hair.

Q: Some of the ingredients in my products have names that look a lot like names for silicones. What are they? Are they silicones? Should I be concerned about how they may affect my hair if I am avoiding strong surfactants (sulfates”> in my hair care routine?

A: It gets confusing, doesn’t it? There are so many different ingredients approved for use in personal care products, and sometimes their INCI names (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients”> start to sound very similar. Chemical nomenclature (organic or otherwise”> is a pretty in-depth topic, and there are several different naming conventions of which INCI is only one. Rather than tackling that beast, let’s simply take a look at some of the ingredients frequently confused with silicones and try to get some clarity around this issue (at least with a few ingredients!”>.

First of all, what is a silicone?

A silicone is a polymer or oligomer with an inorganic (non carbon-based”> backbone, typically with organic pendant groups. The structures of silicone polymers or cyclic oligomers (such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone”> always include silicone atoms and oxygen atoms as part of the backbone of the molecule. These molecules are used in a wide variety of products, typically for their superior conditioning effects and their ability to impart gloss and shine.

Many curly-haired consumers who have delicate, dry hair avoid frequent use of shampoos containing strong surfactants. People who adhere to a low sulfate or sulfate free shampoo routine often avoid products containing silicones because they are almost always water insoluble (with a few exceptions”> and can cause problematic buildup on the surface of the hair if not removed via a shampoo. For this reason, they read labels of all the products they use and occasionally experience confusion when an ingredient has a name similar to the silicone family of ingredients.

Following are some examples of ingredients whose names sometimes raise red flags for those consumers concerned about the presence of silicones in their products:

5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane

5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane (trade name Bronidox”> is a six-membered cyclic ether, a member of a group of molecules known as –oxanes. This name is easily confused with the very similar notation used for many silicones: polydimthylsiloxane. Bronidox is an antimicrobial and preservative that is especially effective against yeast and fungi. It is slightly less soluble in water than alcohols, but it is present in hair product formulations in such low percentages that there is no concern whatsoever about buildup on the hair, regardless of hair-care routine (no shampoo, low shampoo, etc.”>

Isothiazolinones: (methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone”>

Methylisothiazolinone (MIT”> and methylchloroisothiazolinone are preservatives that are usually sold and used as a mixture (trade name: Kathon CG”>. They are part of the ketone family, a group of organic compounds, and the –one at the end of their name can be confused with the –one found in the names of some silicones. These chemicals are highly effective against yeasts, molds, and both gram negative and gram positive bacteria. However, they are considered to be very strong allergens and irritants of skin and membrane tissue. Some studies have also led to questions regarding potential cytotoxicity and neurotoxicity (although the FDA and CTFA do currently state that the products we use containing these chemicals are safe”>. Safety considerations aside, these preservatives are water soluble. Even if they were not, they would not be present in appreciable enough amounts to be a source of build up.

Isododecane, Isohexadecane

These ingredients are branched alkanes (-ane”>, which are molecules comprised only of carbon and hydrogen. Isodocane and isohexadecane are small, branched molecules, and are chemically very pure due to their synthetic origins. These hydrocarbon olefins are not petroleum distillation byproducts as many other raw materials often are, but are synthesized via highly advanced processes from very pure starting material.

They are used in cosmetics due to their low toxicity, low skin irritation, no color and no odor. Isododecane can be used as s solvent for higher molecular weight water insoluble components such as silicones. Isohexadecane is valued for its non-greasy or tacky feel and its ability to impart a silky, smooth texture to skin and hair. It has excellent spreadability for both skin and hair also. Neither of these molecules is a silicone, but they are both insoluble in water. Due to their fairly simple and compact hydrocarbon structure, I would not expect problems with buildup if one were using a conditioner cleansing routine.

So what does all this tell me?

Hopefully we have shed some light on a few ingredients that get confused with silicones from time to time and helped you understand the differences between them and silicones and (more importantly”> whether they are okay for you to use with your particular hair routine. The bigger take-away message is that many of the ingredients listed on cosmetic packages can be strikingly similar and certainly confusing! When in doubt, look it up, ask a friend, or ask the chemist! I am always happy to answer your questions.

Savvy consumers have continually demanded styling products that provide excellent hold (especially for spiky styles”>, impart shine, resist humidity, resist flaking and provide a nice feel without stickiness or crunch. How does a formulator or chemist provide all these properties in one product?

Many of the available ingredients provide certain desired properties that conflict with other properties, such as a polymer that provides firm hold but leaves the hair stiff and crunchy. This competition between ingredients is a never-ending paradox for the product development chemist.[1] In addition to providing the magic combination of properties, a fixative polymer must also be easy to work with and compatible with the other ingredients typically used in these formulations.

Noveon Consumer Specialties of Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. has developed a new polymer to meet the challenges faced by the formulator in the development of innovative styling products. The structure and chemistry of this polymer is very interesting and cleverly designed. The chemists modified materials found in a typical styling polymer and created a complex, branched acrylate copolymer. It is described by Lubrizol as “an acrylate copolymer – C1-4 alkyl(meth”>acrylate and (meth”>acrylic acid”> and a proprietary amphiphilic package that contains silicone side chains and associative hydrophobic chains.” [2]

The polymer backbone is comprised of random combined blocks of very soft hydrophobic domains and very hard hydrophilic domains. This structure, combined with the silicone side chains and associative hydrophobic side chains, results in a polymer that has excellent humidity resistance and strong hold while maintaining a soft feel, superior gloss, dispersing easily, all without flaking. It is also very compatible with other components, such as Carbopol®, which is typically found in mousses and hair gels.

The good news for people with curls, whether they wear their hair straight or curly, is that this new polymer promises to provide many of the traits we have long been looking for in a styling product. Not only does it provide the “dream” combination of attributes, it also shampoos out easily, resists buildup, and works with a low-shampoo or shampoo-free routine as well. So, look for products containing Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer and give them a try. It may be a pleasant surprise.

• [1]”Hair Care Polymer Trends, What do the latest patent applications reveal about what’s happening in new technology for hair products?,” Robert Y. Lochhead and Ashley Cox, Happi, Nov. 2007
• [2]Noveon consumer Specialties product information

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Andre Walker, who has won numerous Emmys for his work on the Oprah Winfrey Show, has worked out this hair classification system.

Many of you have seen it referenced on the discussion boards. For your convenience, we’ve excerpted it here, and added some of our own recommendations and tips.

For more information about the hair types and how to make the best of each type, check out his book, Andre Talks Hair.

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Type 2: Wavy hair

Type 2 hair falls into the great divide between Type 1, straight hair, and Type 3, curly hair. A relatively unusual type, wavy hair tends to be coarse, with a definite "S" pattern to it. By that I mean the wave forms throughout the hair in the shape of the letter "S". Your hair is wavy, or Type 2, if it curves in the "S" shape while laying flat against the scalp, instead of standing away from the head the way curly hair does. Supermodel Yasmeen Ghauri, actress/model Isabella Rosellini and actress Jennifer Aniston of Friends (the one who sparked a craze for the ubiquitous "Friends haircut" of the mid-1990s”> are all Type 2s. Type 2s are often confused with Type 3s because it is easy to get curly hair to lay flat and look wavy. But don’t be fooled: you can’t get Type 2 hair to look like Type 3 without a lot of work. Why? The hallmark of wavy hair is that it sticks close to the head: even if you cut it in layers, it won’t bounce up. There are three Type 2 subtypes: A, fine and thin; B, medium-textured; and C, thick and coarse. Type 2A is very easy to handle, pliantly blowing out into a straighter style or taking on curlier looks with relative ease. Types 2B and 2C are a little more resistant to styling and have a tendency to frizz

Tips: This hair type needs lighter products that enhance curls. Let hair air dry or use a diffuser. Use duckbill clips on the crown of your head to lift top curls as needed. Once your curls are dry, rub a little pomade into the palm of your hands and smooth over your hair. Please do not use a brush or comb on your dry curls. Sleeping on a satin pillowcase is recommended to reduce tangles.

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Type 3: Curly hair

With curly hair, there is a definite loopy "S" pattern. Pluck out a hair, stretch it out. Notice the curvy lines. Looks like s stretched-out Slinky, doesn’t it? Most people think curly hair is coarse, but actually it is usually baby soft and very fine in texture – there’s just a lot of it. Because the cuticle layers don’t like as flat, curly hair isn’t as shiny as straight or wavy hair. The hair doesn’t have a very smooth surface, so light doesn’t reflect off of it as much. When curly hair is wet, is usually straightens out. As it dries, it absorbs the water and contracts to its curliest state. Those of you with Type 3 hair know all too well that humidity makes curly hair even curlier, or even frizzier.

If you’re a Type 3, your hair has a lot of body and is easily styled in its natural state, or it can be easily straightened with a blow-dryer into a smoother style. Healthy Type 3 hair is shiny, with soft, smooth curls and strong elasticity. The curls are well-defined and springy: pull out a strand of hair and stretch it; it won’t snap in two. Damaged Type 3 hair is usually frizzy, dull, hard and dry to the touch, with fuzzy, ill-defined curls.

There are two subtypes of curly hair. Type 3A, hair that is very loosely curled like Julia Robert’s or Susan Sarandon’s is usually very shiny with big curls. The shorter the hair, the straighter it gets. The longer the hair the more defined the curl. Type 3B, on the other hand, is hair with a medium amount of curl, ranging from bouncy ringlets – think of Shirley Temple – to tight corkscrews – think of actress Cree Summer of television’s Sweet Justice of jazz singer Cleo Laine. It’s not unusual to find both subtypes coexisting on the same head. In fact, curly hair usually consists of a combination of textures, with the crown being the curliest part.

Tips for 3a hair: This hair type needs light moisture and products that define the curls. Let hair air dry or use a diffuser. Use duckbill clips at the crown of your head to lift top curls as needed. Once curls are dry, rub a little pomade into the palm of your hands and smooth over your hair. Please do not use a brush or comb on your dry curls. Sleeping on a satin pillowcase is recommended to reduce tangles.

Tips for 3b hair : This hair type needs extra moisture and products that define curls and fight frizz. Let hair air dry or use a diffuser. Use duckbill clips at the crown of your head to lift top curls as needed. Once curls are dry, rub a little pomade into the palm of your hands and smooth over your hair. Please do not brush or comb your dry curls. Sleeping on a satin pillowcase is recommended to reduce tangles.

Addendum:

Naturallycurly.com readers have suggested a third Type 3 subtype: 3c.

Type 3C, is hair with tight curls in corkscrews. The curls can be either kinky, or very tightly curled, with lots and lots of strands densely packed together. Some people refer to this as "big hair." Getting this type of hair to blowdry straight is more challenging than for 3A or 3B, but it usually can be done. This includes those with very tight curls but finer hair, as well as coarser hair. 3C has really really tight curls, like pencil or straw circumference. 3B is like sidewalk chalk or salt shaker circumference, and 4A is like coffee stirrer circumference.

Tips: This hair type needs extra moisture and tender-loving care because it can be fragile. Let the hair air dry and do not use a brush or comb. To refresh bed head or fight fuzzy hair line, use a moisturizing hairdress like Miss Jessie’s Curly Buttercreme or Jane Carter Solution Nourish & Shine.

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Type 4: Kinky hair

If your hair falls into the Type 4 category, then it is kinky, or very tightly curled. Generally, Type 4 hair is very wiry, very tightly coiled and very, very fragile. Like Type 3 hair, Type 4 hair appears to be coarse, but it is actually quite fine, with lots and lots of this strands densely packed together. Healthy Type 4 hair won’t shine, but it will have sheen. It will be soft to the touch and will pass the strand test with ease. It will feel more silky than it will look shiny. Oprah, Whoopi Goldberg and the actress Angela Bassett are all Type 4s.

Type 4 hairs looks tough and durable, but looks can be deceiving. If you have Type 4 hair, you already know that it is the most fragile hair around. Why? Type 4 hair has fewer cuticle layers than any other hair type, which means that it has less natural protection from the damage you inflict by combing, brushing, curling, blow-drying and straightening it. The more cuticle layers in a single strand of hair, the more protection it has from damage. Each time you damage your hair — fire up the curling iron, fry it with chemicals – you break down a cuticle layer, robbing your hair of much-needed moisture. I cannot emphasize this enough. It’s like taking a wire and bending it again and again. Eventually, it’s going to snap and break.

Many women with Type 4 hair rely on chemical relaxers to make hair easier to control. In its natural states, sometimes Type 4 hair doesn’t grow very long because every time you comb it, it breaks. (Of course, if you have dreadlocks and never comb them or keep them braided, your hair can and does grow quite long.”>

There are two subtypes of Type 4 hair: Type 4A, tightly coiled hair that, when stretched, has an "S" pattern, much like curly hair; and Type 4B, which has a "Z" pattern, less of a defined curl pattern (instead of curling or coiling, the hair bends in sharp angles like the letter "Z"”>. Type 4A tends to have more moisture than Type 4B, which will have a wiry texture. But what if your hair has been chemically straightened? How can you tell which subtype you belong to if your hair is relaxed? You’ll need at least one inch of new growth to tell. Pull at the roots. If you can see a definite curl pattern, then it’s an A, if not, then it’s a B.

Addendum:

NaturallyCurly.com type 4 readers have found the above description limiting, and somewhat misleading. We offer the following addendum:

Type 4 hair can range from fine/thin to wiry/coarse strand texture. Generally, this hair is densely packed to give the appearance of very thick but fragile hair. 4a hair has a clearly visible curl and wave pattern that ranges from pen size curls to pen spring size coils. 4b hair has a tighter wave pattern and kinks of various size. This texture does not exhibit the shine or silkiness of looser type curls, but instead has sheen, and a soft, almost cotton-like feel. As with other types of curly hair, showing the true length can be an extra challenge, as the hair may grow “up” or “out” before starting to hang down. In its unlocked/unbraided state, type 4 hair is known to shrink up to 75% of the actual hair length. With the proper care and technique, type 4 hair is indeed resilient, manageable, durable, growable and easy to control.

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Type 1: Straight Hair

For hair with no texture or curl patterns, we suggest:

• Jessicurl Hair Cleansing Cream
• Jessicurl Aloeba
• John Masters Evening Primrose Shampoo
• John Masters Oranics Lavender & Avocado Intensive Conditioner
• Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo
• Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner
• Max Green Alchemy Scalp Rescue Shampoo
• Max Green Alchemy Scalp Rescue Conditioner
• Innersense Pure Inspiration Daily Conditioner
• nnersense Pure Inspiration Hair Bath

We get a lot of questions about whether or not castor oil is okay for curly hair. Another related question is what PEG-30 castor oil is (or any other PEG-#”>, and whether it is compatible with curly hair, especially for those on shampoo-free or shampoo-minimal routines.

What is Castor Oil?

Castor oil is a plant-derived oil obtained from the seeds (castor beans”> of the plant Ricinus communis. It is a mixture of triglycerides composed of several different fatty acids. It is a mono-unsaturated fat, with a one double carbon-carbon bond per arm of the triglyceride. The major component is ricinoleic acid, with the remainder of the oil being comprised of oleic, linoleic, stearic, and several other organic acids.

What Does it do?

Castor oil is known for its excellent emollient and lubricant properties, as well as for its film-forming capabilities that make it useful in skin creams and in some hair styling products. The chemical structure of castor oil also helps it act as a humectant, so that it attracts water to the hair and skin. It has a relatively high viscosity, enabling a formulator to use it to thicken products, which can impart a more luxurious sensation for the consumer.

One drawback of castor oil is that the film it forms has been found to sometimes feel a bit tacky or sticky to the touch. Also, if used on hair in its natural state, the film it forms on hair is not water soluble, which can be a problem for those who use low- or no-shampoo routines. This film can also have a tendency to attract other oils and dirt if not removed regularly, so it would be necessary to use a reasonably strong shampoo when you’re using a castor oil product.

The chemistry of the major component of castor oil (ricinoleic acid”> is fairly unique among triglycerides. This unusual fatty acid possesses hydroxyl (-OH”> groups on each arm of the molecule, which make it more polar than other fatty acids. The hydroxyl group also facilitates chemical modification of the triglyceride, allowing creation of derivatives with desired properties for many different applications.Molecular structure of PEG-modified castor oil surfactants. Surfactol 318 and 365 are trade names for products with different PEG amounts.

Castor Oil in Hair Care Products

One such derivative, frequently seen in hair-care products, is PEG-x castor oil (x = number of ethylene glycol units”>. Ricinoleic acid (castor oil”> reacted with ethylene oxide produces a polyethylene glycol modified castor oil, with the number of ethylene glycol units varying from as few as two to more than100. The ethylene glycol portion of the molecule is hydrophilic (water soluble”>. This hydrophilic portion, coupled with the hydrophobic oil portion of the triglyceride, creates a nonionic surfactant molecule. These surfactant molecules can be used by formulators as excellent emulsifiers of conditioning agents, stabilizers, and thickeners.

The ethylene glycol groups enhance the humectant properties of the castor oil molecule, which can be of help to curly hair in moderate climates. (Read this article for more information on humectants and curly hair.”> PEG-castor oil molecules range from dispersible in aqueous solutions to completely water soluble, depending upon the PEG-#. When the PEG-# exceeds approximately 35, the molecule becomes completely water soluble. This is great for those on no- or low-shampoo regimens because there is little fear of buildup.

Hydrogenated castor oil, also called castor wax, is the result of a reaction with hydrogen in the presence of a catalyst in order to remove the single double bond present on each arm of the triglyceride. This is done to make the molecule less susceptible to oxidation and spoilage. The result is a hard waxy substance that is highly insoluble in water. This wax can still be reacted with ethylene glycol and yields compounds with much the same properties as the non-hydrogenated varieties of PEG-x castor oil.

Benefits and Drawbacks

Results obtained by using products containing castor oil and its derivatives will really depend upon a consumer’s hair type and normal routine of hair care, as well as the overall formula of the product being used. Some have reported that it weighed their hair down or made it greasy, and others have had problems with frizziness when using PEG-modified versions of the oil. But some also love the results they get from products with this ingredient

As always, it is worth experimenting with a new product, especially if you have some knowledge about the ingredient and how it might impact your hair.

Q: What is the difference between lanolin and lanolin oil, and how might each affect my hair?

A: Lanolin is a very greasy material produced by the sebaceous glands of sheep. It acts as an excellent moisturizer for skin and hair and also functions as an effective water barrier. A byproduct of wool-gathering and refining, it is easily obtained and is a renewable resource. For this reason, lanolin has been used as an emollient in hand and body creams and hair products for many centuries. Many consider animal oils to be more compatible with human skin and hair than vegetable or mineral oils.

Lanolin is a mixture of fatty acids, wax esters, and a complex mixture of other organic compounds. It is classified as a wax (as opposed to an oil or fat”>, and is a solid at room temperature (melting point: 100-107°F”>. In its natural state, lanolin contains about 25-30% water by weight. When applied to skin or hair, it is very effective at penetrating the surface and enhancing moisture retention. Lanolin is also beneficial because it continues to absorb moisture from the air, and can thus act as a humectant for the skin or hair.

Lanolin is sometimes considered to be too thick and greasy to be used liberally on curly hair, as it can really weigh down the curls and create frizz, but this is really dependent upon the degree of curl. A person with wavy hair or only slightly curly hair may find it to be too much for them, while a person with extremely curly hair would find it very beneficial to their hair. Its unique and complex chemical composition should make it very easily removed from the hair with a gentle shampoo or conditioner wash.

Lanolin oil is a derivative of lanolin and is a liquid at room and body temperature. In this liquid state, lanolin oil is much easier to use in the manufacturing processes because it does not require temperatures to be elevated above 100°F. This saves time and money for the manufacturer as well as (presumably”> the consumer. Lanolin oil should also be a somewhat lighter moisturizer than regular lanolin wax, but with many of the same beneficial properties.

In summary, lanolin is an excellent conditioning agent for both skin and hair, but consideration of hair type should be used when selecting products for hair. As a deep conditioning agent, used infrequently, probably all curly-haired people would benefit from a product containing lanolin (in the wax form”>. People with extremely curly hair (such as those with 3c, and the 4’s“> can most likely use lanolin-containing products in their regular regime and enjoy soft, smooth hair without losing curl or gaining frizz. Those with wavy or slightly curly hair (such as 2a, 2b, 3a, and 3b type”> may find products containing lanolin oil to have excellent performance. But they may not be able to routinely use products containing significant amounts of lanolin wax because they may be too heavy.

Q: Is cetrimonium chloride a silicone? If not, what is it and what is its purpose in my hair-care product? When this ingredient appears on a label with amodimethicone and trideceth-12, does this mean the amodimethicone is now water soluble?

A: This question comes up frequently, because something about that name seems similar to some of the names seen for different silicones. The actual chemical name of this ingredient is cetyl (hexadecyl, more properly”> trimethyl-ammonium chloride (CTAC”>. It is definitely not a silicone or silicone derivative. It is a quaternized ammonium molecule (frequently abbreviated as quat”>, and it has a single positive charge at the head group. CTAC belongs to a family of molecules known as cationic surfactants, which can be used as emulsifying or conditioning agents. Some other commonly used molecules in this group are cetrimonium bromide (CTAB”>, behentrimonium chloride, and quaternium-15.

Their conditioning capabilities are due to electrostatic attraction between the positively-charged head group of the cationic surfactant and negative charges that occur along the surface of hair strands. This electrostatic attraction causes cationic surfactant molecules to deposit themselves onto the cuticle of the hair, which helps create a smoother surface and also reduces static-induced flyaway hair that can occur in cold, dry weather.

As emulsifying agents, cationic surfactants can be used to aid the formulator in getting many different types of hydrophobic (water fearing”> oils to go into solution. They are frequently used in mixtures with a nonionic surfactant. These mixtures can form large micelles, or emulsion droplets. Oil-in-water micelles are clusters of molecules with an oily center or core, made up of the non-polar tails of the surfactants, surrounded by an outer shell formed by the polar portion of the molecule. The polar portion of the shell is water soluble, and the interior of the micelle can encapsulate a water-insoluble oil, such as silicone. This complex particle can then be dispersed into an aqueous solution, such as a hair conditioner or shampoo formula. (There are also micelles known as water-in-oil micelles, where the polar groups are in the interior portion of the micelle, and the oil soluble portions are on the exterior of the micelle.”>

A common example of such a mixture is cetrimonium chloride, trideceth-12 (the nonionic surfactant”>, and amodimethicone. The two surfactants surround the amodimethicone, which is water insoluble. The resultant aggregate of all three components is dispersible in water, due to the hydrophilic nature of the micelle shell. However, it should be noted that this mixture is dispersible in water for the purposes of ease of manufacture of the shampoo or conditioner. The mixture does not remain intact during product use, and it should not be inferred that having those three components in a formula renders the amodimethicone water soluble once it is applied to the hair.

Once the actual product is applied to wet hair in the shower, the aggregate is broken up and each component does what it would ordinarily do. The nonionic surfactant is washed away when the hair is rinsed; the positively-charged amodimethicone and the cationic surfactant are each deposited (separately”> onto the surface of the hair. The amodimethicone is left alone, and is thus in its water insoluble state, and it dries to form a film, which imparts sheen and silkiness to the hair. Despite the fact that it is water insoluble, amodimethicone has been found to resist the formation of build up, and most users have reported excellent results with products containing amodimethicone, even if they use a shampoo-free regimen.

I just recently got married and was confused about how I was going to wear my hair on my honeymoon to Europe. I was really stressed out over it, but I knew I had to come up with some sort of way to make my hair work. Honestly, I just really didn’t feel like being bothered with doing my hair every day. Hair issues on a honeymoon is no fun whatsoever!

I thought about braids, but my man said that braids were so unoriginal. He said, “You should wear your fro just the way it is. It’s you. It’s unique.” He was right, but I just wanted to be worry-free and comfortable traveling. Low maintenance is the key. On the other hand, I wanted to make a statement, because I was going to present myself and my portfolio to some of the top modeling agencies in Europe. I wanted them to see me looking my best. I thought about bringing my wigs, but then I realized I really wouldn’t be representing me. I would be hiding under fake hair. No good.

After careful consideration and deep meditation, I decided to go with the flow and just keep my fro. I packed my Paul Mitchell foaming pomade, because it works fantastic for me when twisting my locks. I also packed Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding, Jane Carter’s Scalp Renew and Paul Mitchell’s Super-Charged Moisturizer. These products — as a team work — wonders for my hair. In addition to my products I brought lots of silk scarves to wrap my hair with. Silk scarves help with any hair breakage and are fabulous for wearing out and about during the day. They are light, airy and free-flowing.

One day, while catching some sun at a cool beach in Mykonos, Greece, a wavy-haired lady from New York City came up to me and said, “I love your hair. I wish my hair was like yours. Have you ever heard of Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding? I use that product to keep my hair smooth.” I starting laughing and said, “Yes, I have it right here in my back pack. It’s great stuff.” It was pretty cool to sit on a beach in Greece and talk about being naturally curly and loving it.

Thank goodness I made the decision to let my hair go “naturale” on my honeymoon. It turned out to be very successful. I did a high fashion photo shoot and was able to establish some great relationships on my trip. I was also complimented throughout my journey on my lovely fro. I communicated with people that didn’t speak my language. My hair and my smile was the universal language. Thank goodness for my God-given natural! My honeymoon hair blues are forever washed away.

Because of the high interest in silicones, we periodically take a closer look at some of the many silicones found in hair-care products. This month we’ll be looking at Cyclomethicone.
Cyclomethicone is the INCI (International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients”> name for a category of silicones used in many personal-care products. Cyclopentsiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, and cyclohexasiloxane are also designations for the same class of molecules. In contrast with linear silicones such as dimethicone, these molecules have a cyclic, or ring-like architecture comprised of only four to six repeat units of the dialkyl siloxane group. These are much smaller molecules than the polymeric silicones, such as polydimethyl siloxane (dimethicone”> which may have hundreds of thousands of siloxane repeat units.

Cyclic silicones (or siloxanes”> are frequently used as solvents for fragrance and essential oils, and also as carrier fluids for higher molecular weight silicones such as dimethicone and dimethiconol. This aids the formulator in preparing her final product because she can prepare her oil phase by combining cyclomethicone and the silicone and/or fragrance oil and add her emulsifier, prior to addition of the entire oil phase to the aqueous phase.

Cyclomethicones are also favored by formulators because they spread easily on the hair and skin, and the lubrication they provide isn’t greasy or tacky. Because of their low vapor pressure, they evaporate easily from hair or skin at room temperature, and therefore aren’t prone to build-up or an oily residue. For this reason, they are sometimes used as an additive in products such as spray leave-in conditioners to help speed drying time. Another benefit of their low vapor pressure is that it provides a way for the desired ingredients to penetrate into the hair shaft or skin. The cyclic silicone is too large to penetrate the skin or hair itself, but is small enough to dissolve the beneficial ingredient, deposit it onto the hair surface, and then evaporate, leaving behind the beneficial ingredient.

Cyclic silicones may appear on labels by several different names, such as:

• Cyclomethicone (can be a single cyclic silicone or a mixture of two or more”>

• Cyclopentasiloxane

• Cyclotetrasiloxane

• Cyclohexasiloxane

• Octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane

Several curly-haired consumers on NaturallyCurly have reported very unfavorable results with products containing cyclopentasiloxane in particular. These problems were attributed to build-up on the surface or build up due to penetration of the smaller silicone into the hair shaft. However, this seems unlikely because of the chemical and physical properties of these molecules. I believe that evaporation of the cyclic silicones creates a ruffled hair cuticle that creates a rough, unpleasant texture on the hair surface in the same manner as evaporation of ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol. The mildly acidic pH of a shampoo and conditioner will help restore the sealed, flat surface of the cuticle, thereby improving the texture and gloss of the hair.

Last month we discussed how humectants work, and how the temperature and humidity can affect that process. We also discussed the effects of temperature and humidity on the hair itself, and how the use of products containing humectants can impact hair in various weather conditions.

This month, we will discuss some of the humectants found in hair-care products in more detail. While most humectants share the fact that they contain at least one hydroxyl group (-OH”>, they can be separated into several different categories, including alcohols, saccharides, provitamins, proteins, and many other types of molecules. We will discuss a few of the ones that are most commonly seen in hair-care products.

Alcohols

The most frequently used humectants are diols and triols — compounds which contain two or three hydroxyl groups (-OH”> that attract water molecules through hydrogen bonding. These include glycerin, phytantriol, erythritol, and numerous varieties of alkyl diols and triols (propylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, triethyelene glycol, etc.”>.
One common diol, and a very effective humectant, is propylene glycol. This ingredient is used in many personal-care products, as well as a variety of other applications. There has been a lot of debate about the possible health hazards of this diol.

The non-cosmetics-related application, which is the source of alarm, is its occasional use as an “anti-freeze.” Because of this, there have been implications that this ingredient has the toxicity associated with the more usual component of anti-freeze, ethylene glycol, which is quite toxic, even lethal at relatively small doses.

The truth is that propylene glycol has been substituted for ethylene glycol in many commercially available antifreeze formulations because it is much safer than ethylene glycol. The other important thing to note is that the word “anti-freeze” — used to strike fear into the heart of the educated consumer — is actually the technical word to describe a completely innocuous process, the lowering of the freezing point of a liquid. I am sure many of you are familiar with the application of salt to the streets and sidewalks to help prevent the formation of dangerous ice, which it does by lowering the freezing point of water. This is an example of a “safe” chemical being used as an “anti-freeze.”

My point is that one need not be alarmed by the chemical propylene glycol. While few chemicals are entirely without risk, propylene glycol is considered to be safe at the low concentrations used in personal care products and even food products, and is quite effective as a humectant.

Biologically Significant Humectants

Sodium PCA (sodium-2-pyrrolidone-5- carboxylate”> is an interesting humectant that naturally occurs in human skin. It can attract and bind several times its own weight in water and is considered to be one of the primary moisturizers of skin cells. Panthenol is another very popular humectant for hair-care products. It is a provitamin of B5 (pantothenic acid”>, and is present in many living cells.

Another excellent humectant of biological origin is hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring polysaccharide. This material is found not only in the epithelial cells of the skin, but also in connective and nervous tissue throughout the body. It is capable of binding incredible amounts of water molecules to itself, due to its polymeric sugar structure with many available hydroxyl sites along its backbone.

Other Molecules as Humectants

Simple sugars (monosaccharides”> and sugar alcohols possess 5-6 hydroxyl sites available for hydrogen bonding with water, making them excellent humectants. Sorbitol, glucose, and fructose are all commonly found in hair-care products. Many other types of molecules are used as humectants, including (but not limited to”> copolymers of silicone with polyols (usually PEG”>, PEG polymers (polyethers”> of differing lengths, proteins, amino acids, short chain ethers, and certain vitamins.

New Advances in Humectants for Hair and Skin care

In recent years, Colonial Chemical, Inc. has developed two new molecules that perform exceedingly well at both low and high humidity levels. These two materials are known by the trade names Cola Moist 200 and 300P, and by the INCI names hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride and polyquaternium-71, respectively. Cola Moist 200 is a highly ionized small molecule, while Cola Moist 300P is a highly ionized polymeric molecule. Both are extremely hygroscopic (readily absorbs water”>, prevent dehydration of the hair, are water soluble, and moisturize very effectively. Their high degree of ionization is responsible for the excellent performance. Testing has shown these materials to outperform several traditional humectants by 3 to 6 times at low humidity. They have also been found to enhance the performance of humectants such as glycerin.

In conclusion, there are many humectants available for use in hair- and skin-care formulations. Even some of the simplest, such as glycerin and propylene glycol, can add benefit to a formulation. Some of the more expensive ones, such as hyaluronic acid, and the newer ionized humectants may provide superior benefits, especially in drier climates.
When selecting humectant-containing products, one must keep in mind the climate in which they live, how that impacts hair, and how they might expect a humectant to contribute to the overall performance of their own hair within the constraints of that climate. Scientists are continuously researching this area, and are developing new types of molecules in order to overcome some of the limitations of existing ones.

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Examples of Humectants

• Diols and TriolsPropylene glycol

• 1,2,6 hexanetriol

• Butylene Glycol

• Dipropylene glycol

• Hexylene Glycol

• Glycerin

• Triethylene glycol

• Erythritol

• Capryl glycol

• Phytantriol

• Hexanediol or -triol beeswax

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Humectants of biological origin

• Panthenol

• Sodium PCA

• Hyaluronic acid

• Inositol

• Glycogen Sugars and modified sugars

• Sorbitol

• Polyglyceryl sorbitol

• Glucose

• Fructose

• Xylitol Hydrolyzed proteins

• Elastin, collagen, silk, keratin EthersIsoceteth-x, Isolaureth-x,

• Laneth-x, Laureth-x, Steareth-xPEG-x (polyethylene glycol”>

• Silicone copolyols

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Email your questions to Tonya.

We hear a lot about the humectants. But many of us may not know what they are and how they work.

Humectants are used in skin and hair-care products to promote moisture retention. These hygroscopic compounds posses a chemical structure that attracts water from the atmosphere and binds it to various sites along the molecule.

There are many different types of molecules that are effective humectants, but the chemical similarity they share is having multiple alcohol (hydroxyl”> or similarly hydrophilic sites (such as ethers or ammonium groups”> available for hydrogen bonding with water molecules. The strength of the hydrogen bonding between humectants and H2O improves moisture retention by minimizing water loss due to evaporation.

These ingredients are used in many products, especially those designed for consumers with dry, damaged hair. While they can provide benefit in certain circumstances, it is important to understand how they work and under what circumstances they might provide less-than-optimal results. When considering whether to use humectants, the most important piece of the puzzle is how the weather can impact your hair and the performance of these molecules.

Effects of Relative Humidity on Hair and Humectants

The laws of thermodynamics have a daily influence on our hair. There is a driving force in nature for everything to be in a state of equilibrium. Molecules that exist in an area of higher concentration in contact with an area of lower concentration will move toward the area of lower concentration in an attempt to reach an equilibrium state where the concentration is the same for both areas. For example, dry hair exposed to a very humid environment will become gradually immersed with water molecules, as they diffuse from the air (an area of higher concentration”> into the hair (an area of lower concentration”>. Curly hair is especially susceptible to this type of diffusion because it is naturally more porous than straight hair.

Hair exposed to very dry air without protection can lose its moisture, develop an unpleasant texture and can become unruly, flyaway, and frizzy. It also can become more prone to breakage and split ends. Conversely, unprotected exposure to excessive moisture and humidity can swell the hair cortex, causing the cuticle scales on the exterior of the hair shaft to become ruffled and giving hair a coarse, unpleasant texture. Clearly, neither scenario is desirable.

Low Humidity

In extremely low-humidity conditions, such as a cold, dry winter air, there is no appreciable amount of water in the air for the humectant to attract to the surface of the hair. In this particular type of climate, the best one can hope for with most traditional humectants is for them to prevent evaporation of water from the hair into the environment. Also, under these circumstances, there is some risk of the humectant actually removing moisture from the cortex of the hair itself, creating the problem it was intended to prevent.

That’s why in dry climates it is important to use conditioning products which rely on strong moisturizers rather than traditional humectants. However, it is interesting to note that new humectants are being developed that perform well even in low humidity (such as hydroxypropyl bis-hydroxyethyldimonium chloride and dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride”>.

High Humidity

In high-humidity conditions, such as summertime in the southeastern United States or the tropics — where the relative humidity can easily reach or exceed 90 percent during the day — there is a tremendous amount of moisture in the air. This can be disastrous for curly hair. If curly hair is dry and damaged, it is very porous, and easily absorbs water from the air. In high-humidity conditions, this can cause curly hair to swell so much that cuticles are raised, making the surface of the hair very rough. These cuticles can then become entangled with cuticles of adjacent hairs and create a huge, tangled mass, which is prone to breakage. Also, curly hair swollen by excess water can lose its curl pattern, creating the dreaded summer frizz.

Clearly, products heavy in humectants will only exacerbate problems with humidity-induced frizz. Some humectants can also develop a sticky feeling when they become saturated with water, which is certainly an undesirable characteristic for hair. Thus, in tropical and subtropical climates, it is essential to maintain well-moisturized hair that is in good condition (which will be less prone to absorbing water from the hair”>. But it is preferable to use products containing fewer humectants or humectants with less hygroscopic capacity.

Due to the limitations and pitfalls of humectants in extreme weather conditions, it is apparent that these ingredients probably function best for curly-haired consumers in moderate climates, with temperatures and humidity in the medium range.

Next month, we will discuss some of the different humectants in more detail.

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Examples of Humectants

Diols and Triols
Propylene glycol 1,2,6 hexanetriol Butylene Glycol Dipropylene glycol Hexylene Glycol Glycerin Triethylene glycol Erythritol Capryl glycol Phytantriol Hexanediol or -triol beeswax Humectants of biological origin
Panthenol Sodium PCA Hyaluronic acid Inositol Glycogen Sugars and modified sugars
Sorbitol Polyglyceryl sorbitol Glucose Fructose Xylitol Hydrolyzed proteins
Elastin, Collagen Silk Keratin Ethers
Isoceteth-x, Isolaureth-x, Laneth-x, Laureth-x, Steareth-x PEG-x (polyethylene glycol”>Silicone copolyols