Search Results: Tonya McKay

By Tonya McKay · Published July 9, 2014

PHOTO COURTESY OF ROG WALKER

What is frizz?

We all know what frizz looks and feels like, but what is going on when it happens? Basically, frizz happens when the structure of a hair strand is altered in a way that prevents it from having its intended form. A frizzy strand is usually neither straight nor curly, and seems to fit in nowhere on the head. Frizz can create a halo type effect on the head, as the unruly strands float around patternless on the surface, or it can yield an overall shapeless, bushy effect. The usual cause of this behavior is that the structure of either the cuticle or the hair shaft (or both”> is disrupted by either damage or interaction with the environment, which then causes it to lose its suppleness, smoothness, and curl pattern.

What causes it?

The most common culprit for frizzy hair is a substance that seems innocuous: water. The porous nature of hair enables it to absorb moisture from the environment. When this happens in excess, it causes expansion of the cushiony endocuticle layer, which lifts cuticle scales away from the axis of the hair, making the surface rough and unruly. This swelling and roughening of the cuticle layer is compounded by diffusion of moisture into the cortex, where it can cause the protein-rich gel matrix to swell substantially. Swelling due to water absorption also increases the diameter of individual hair strands, which can encourage them to lift and separate from one another instead of nesting together properly. Excess water molecules also disrupt hydrogen bonding between keratin strands, which can alter the curl pattern and cause straw-like, frizzy hair.

What hair types are most affected?

Hair that has undergone chemical and/or heat treatments is definitely prone to frizz, due to its damaged cuticle and cortical protein structures. However, normal, healthy hair can also have a tendency to frizz. Curly hair is more susceptible to this frizz than straight hair, due to its less cylindrical shape and the fact that individual scales in its cuticle layer are less tightly overlapping. This makes curly hair more delicate and damage-prone than straight hair, but also more porous and likely to be affected by water in the environment even in its virgin, healthy state. The curlier a person’s hair is, the greater the likelihood she will experience with frizz. Also, the finer someone’s hair is (fine hair meaning hair strands with smaller diameter”>, the higher the overall surface area, which results in higher relative amount of moisture absorption from the air and more problems with frizz. So, the finest and curliest hair will often be frizzy even if it is not damaged or dry.

What can you do about it?

If your hair is already very healthy, yet you still struggle with frizz, it may be easy to become disheartened. Since frizz is often a result of hair taking on too much moisture from its environment, the most effective tactic is to minimize this as much as possible. Making sure your hair is well-hydrated will reduce the amount of water it will absorb. Also, using conditioners that have good emollients in them will help make your cuticle layer smoother and will make it more hydrophobic, so that it will be less susceptible to water from the environment. Oils will also add suppleness to your hair and act as sealers or anti-humectants. While many botanical oils are wonderful for this purpose, some silicones and mineral oil also perform really well for this application, if you do not mind using a mild shampoo to remove them. If your hair is fine though, it may have a tendency to easily become weighed down by too many oils, so you will have to work carefully to find the right oil type and amount for your hair.

Do you embrace or combat frizz?

By Tonya McKay · Published June 10, 2014

PHOTO COURTESY OF MAIEDAE

The decision to change your natural hair color to one of the many available shades of red is definitely not for the faint of heart, but the results can be fabulously glamorous and beautiful. Whether you choose a coppery gold, strawberry blonde, deep burgundy, rich auburn, or cherry red, your look can be transformed from mundane to exotic. While tresses both straight and coily look amazing in red, curly red hair certainly does seem to have a unique potential to make a huge impact. Julia Roberts’ hair in Pretty Woman was unforgettable, Merida’s hair in Brave took on a life of its own, and Christina Hendricks’ wavy locks are simply stunning.

If you are considering red for the first time or desire a radical departure for your natural color, enlisting the skills of a hair color expert is prudent. For the most flattering effect, it is critical to find the correct shade of red for your skin and eye color, as the wrong tones can enhance features most of us might prefer to downplay.  It is also essential that they consider your natural hair color to be certain the formula selected does not produce unexpected effects when mixed with the natural tones in your hair.

Once you have made the bold move to go red and have found the perfect shade for your unique look, it is time to revel in your new look, right? The initial results can be thrilling, but the brilliant hues often do not last for long. Sadly, the honeymoon period is usually too short, and the revelation that red hair is extremely difficult to maintain comes all too soon. Do not despair, though! Understanding why the molecules that create red hair are more susceptible to fading and knowing what scientists recommend to slow this process down can help you extend the vibrancy of your new red hair between coloring sessions. It truly is worth the effort.

Quick summary of permanent dying process

Most radical hair color changes are best achieved via a permanent coloring process, rather than a temporary one. In this process, ammonia or another base is used to raise the pH of the hair and open the cuticle in order to permit diffusion of the other ingredients into the cortex. A precursor (usually paraphenylene diamine”> is oxidized with peroxide into an activated form that then reacts with a molecule known as a coupler, which is responsible for the final color of the dye. The couplers found most often in red dyes are napthol and amino phenols. The result of this reaction is the formation of a much larger molecule known as a chromophore, which is not only too large to easily diffuse back out of the hair, but is also protonated so that it bonds with the proteins in the cortex.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MAIEDAE

Why does red dye fade so quickly?

Over time, dye molecules can fade due to several different mechanisms, and the most intense colors are naturally the most susceptible. Orange, pink, and even lavender shades are not all that unusual in hair that was dyed red and not properly maintained. The environment is frequently the culprit. UV radiation can react with the dye molecules inside the hair cortex, oxidizing them and leaching away the color. Other factors that can decrease color retention are pollution and heat styling, which cause similar degradation of the dye molecules.

Interestingly, the most significant contributor to color fade and loss is the rinsing away of the dye molecules by water. Since dye molecules are water soluble, water can disrupt the bond formed between the dye molecule and the hair keratin and then act as a conduit out of the hair cortex. According to scientists at International Specialty Products, red dye molecules have a greater degree of water solubility than other dyes, so they are particularly vulnerable to this effect. Surfactants from shampoos facilitate this by increasing the wetting of hair and essentially providing slippery exits for the dye through the cuticle layer. Experts at Proctor and Gamble also maintain that red dye molecules are smaller than other colors and thus have a greater tendency to escape hair readily, another reason red shades are more short-lived.

The dye process itself sets the stage for the loss of hair dye molecules. The high pH necessary for the process to work removes the protective fatty acid layer on the cuticle, rendering the hair more hydrophilic and prone to absorption of greater quantities of water than unprocessed hair. Damage to the cuticle that occurs due to the chemical process increases the porosity of the hair, which permits diffusion of dye molecules out of the cortex. Since curly hair generally has a greater initial degree of porosity in its cuticle layer, damage done from chemical dyeing can result in curlies having an even harder time maintaining red shades than their straight-haired counterparts.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MAIEDAE

How to maintain the red?

Fortunately, there are measures a curly can take to maximize the staying power of her gorgeous ruby locks. Your first line of defense is against the environmental assaults against your hair that occur on a daily basis.  The cumulative damage from things like the sun and ozone can be sneaky and profound. A sun hat or pretty scarf goes a long way toward protecting your hair from harmful UV rays, and has the added benefit of also protecting your skin. For daily life and those occasions where a head-covering is not appropriate, there are leave-in products you can apply that have UV-absorbing ingredients in them, which can lessen the impact of the sun. Reducing the amount of heat styling to which your hair is exposed protects its health in multiple ways, and is worthwhile in extending the life of your color as well. Products that contain antioxidants can help protect your hair color from the effects of free-radical forming pollution.

The most important thing you can do to protect your red hair is to limit the frequency that it is saturated with water. This means a swim cap is your friend when at the pool or beach. While perhaps not glamorous according to current conventions, you probably will not regret the decision to use one, especially if you swim daily. Wetting your hair in the shower less frequently, and using a gentle shampoo or conditioner as a cleanser when you do can also help promote a longer life for your dyed tresses.

Conditioning your hair with a properly pH-balanced product will help seal and protect the cuticle, and protein treatments can help fill in holes in the cuticle and decrease porosity, which will prolong desirable levels of red dye inside the cortex. Amine-functionalized silicones such as amodimethicone and hydrophobically-modified cationic polymers such as polyquaternium-55 selectively adhere to damaged sites on the cuticle and are particularly excellent conditioning agents for colored hair. Both types of polymer have been shown to increase retention of red color.

In closing, coloring your curly hair can be a really fun choice, and once you settle on the perfect shade, you can take a few steps to preserve its beauty between touch-ups. Protect it from environmental damage from UV radiation and pollution. Wash it less frequently and use a mild surfactant or cleanser when you do so. Keep it conditioned. Consider using a product that contains amodimethicone or polyquaternium-55, as they provide topical protection and decrease color loss. Finally, do not neglect to get regular touch-ups to your color, as red shades can turn an unflattering orange, pink, or lavender hue when left too long without attention.

By Tonya McKay · Published May 16, 2014

As a relatively recent arrival to the marketplace in the US and Europe, baobab oil is rapidly making its way into this highly-valued family of natural ingredients. It is touted for its effectiveness as a non-greasy emollient for hair, for its ability to add shine, and for its ability to penetrate the hair strands, where it can add elasticity and suppleness. There are also anecdotal reports of baobab oil helping to eliminate dandruff and reduce environmental damage to the hair. So what exactly is baobab oil? Can it live up to the claims? How does it differ from some other popular botanical oils?

Origin

Baobab oil is obtained from the baobab tree (Adansoniadigitata“>, an indigenous species found throughout the hot, arid regions of the African continent. This tree is sometimes referred to as the “upside-down tree”, in reference to its distinctive shape, with its extremely large trunk and relatively spindly, root-like branches of its crown. The gigantic trunks serve as water storage structures for the trees, a feature which enables them to survive the harsh annual drought seasons to which they are subjected.  The trees, which can live to be hundreds or even thousands of years old, are iconic symbols of the glorious landscapes of Africa. Baobab trees have been highly valued since early human history for their delicious fruit, which is high in moisture, vitamin C, and other nutrients.  The seeds of these large fruits are the source of the precious oil, which is used for cooking, as a skin emollient, and as a hair moisturizer.

Composition

To obtain an organic, unrefined product, a cold-press method is used to extract baobab oil from the seeds. This maintains the quality of the oil by preserving the molecular structures of its fatty acids. Like other naturally-derived oils, baobab is comprised of a mixture of fatty acids and vitamins, including vitamins E and D, saturated fatty acids, monounsaturated fatty acids, and polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Vitamin E (α-tocopherol“> is a fat soluble substance found in many botanical oils, including baobab. This vitamin is very beneficial both when ingested and when used topically, because it is a highly effective anti-oxidant. Its molecular structure allows it to absorb energy from the environment that would ordinarily initiate formation of free radicals (also known as reactive oxygen species”>, which can cause oxidation and spoilage of polyunsaturated fatty acids. Free radicals can also do substantial damage to hair and living tissue. In this manner, vitamin E helps preserve the oil and also can help minimize UV, pollution, and thermal damage to the hair and skin when applied topically.

The fatty acid profile in baobab oil is somewhat unique in that it contains relatively equal proportions of saturated to monounsaturated fats and polyunsaturated fat. It is perhaps most similar to almond oil, mango butter, and cocoa butter, but really is pretty distinctive. Depending upon where the tree is grown and the specific soil and climate conditions in the area, the fatty acid composition will vary somewhat.

Role of the fatty acids on hair

When botanical oils such as baobab are applied to the surface of the hair, a variety of different things can occur, depending upon the composition of the fatty acids in the oil.  Short and medium chain saturated fatty acids such as lauric, palmitic, and stearic have a linear molecular geometry, which permits them to diffuse through gaps in the cuticle layer and to penetrate into the cortex where they can impart suppleness and elasticity to the hair. Spectroscopic studies have also shown that monounsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid can likewise penetrate into the interior of the hair strands. This can be beneficial for parched hair that has been damaged by the environment. However, it is important to note that hair that is extremely porous can soak up too much of these oils and become limp, greasy, and even frizzy.  Frizz occurs because excess fatty acids can swell the hair and cause the cuticle to lift and the surface of the hair to become rough and unruly.

Higher molecular weight saturated fatty acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids are too large and bulky to easily diffuse through the cuticle into the central portion of the hair. They sit on the surface of the hair and form an occlusive film. This seals water inside the hair and also prevents humidity from getting into the hair. The film also reduces static electricity and provides emollient properties, making combing and detangling much easier.

Baobab oil is interesting in that its fatty acid profile is approximately one-third saturated fats, one-third monounsaturated fats, and one-third polyunsaturated fats. Thus, it works to improve softness and elasticity when the saturated fats and oleic acid penetrate the hair shaft, while the polyunsaturated fatty acids on the surface create a film that acts as an emollient and slip-agent, making detangling easier. Additionally, the film adds gloss and shine to your tresses, while maintaining an optimum moisture balance by minimizing diffusion of moisture into or out of hair.

Summary

Baobab oil comes from the fruit of the beautiful baobab tree found in Africa, and thanks to women’s co-ops and other trade arrangements, we are fortunate to have the ability to observe its effects on our skin and hair for ourselves.  It has significant amounts of Vitamin E in it, an antioxidant that protects hair from environmental damage caused by formation of free radicals. Also, the unique fatty acid profile for this oil means that some of the oils can diffuse into the cortex of the hair and improve its elasticity and suppleness, while the remainder forms a protective film on the surface that adds shine, decreases tangling, and helps to seal in moisture while blocking out humidity. This special combination of properties means that baobab oil should be especially beneficial for fragile hair or damaged hair exposed to a very hot and dry climate, hair damaged by heat styling or chemical processes, hair exposed to humid conditions, and also hair damaged from swimming or activities in the sun.

There are a number of ways you can incorporate baobab oil into your hair care routine. Try applying a few drops to your hair along with your styling products to gain some protection before you go out in the summer heat. You can also add a few drops to some almond oil, warm it up, and do an intense oil treatment to improve the health of damaged hair. Adding a drop to your conditioner may also give you softer locks. Just remember, it is important with oils to not overuse them either in quantity or frequency. A little caution can help prevent excessive absorption of oils into the hair shaft, which can lead to frizzy, limp hair. Removal with a mild shampoo is also essential, as organic oils can build up and make hair appear greasy and weighted down.

Finally, it is important to note that many of the currently available “baobab oil” products are made of predominantly silicone ingredients and which contain very little baobab oil. These products probably will not reveal the full beneficial properties of baobab oil for you, and may cause some unpleasant effects to your curls if used too often. Fortunately, it is possible to obtain 100% pure, cold-pressed baobab oil from reputable vendors to incorporate into your own routine and products.

By Tonya McKay · Published May 12, 2014

Oftentimes ingredients in hair care products have very similar names, which makes it natural to assume that they have comparable properties and functions in the product. This is frequently a reasonable and reliable assumption. For example, although sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate have a distinct structural difference that alters their specific properties, they are still sufficiently alike that one could be assured they are both surfactants/detergents. At other times, ingredients sound the same, but are profoundly different, and it is important to have a good understanding of the similarities and differences in these particular instances. Two ingredients for which this is true are betaine and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAB”>. While both betaine and CAB may be found in either shampoos or conditioners, they have different functions and perform entirely different. The differences in chemical structure explain the differences in properties and can help clarify this confusing family of ingredients.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Cocamidopropyl betaine is a popular synthetic surfactant used as an emulsifier, cleansing agent, and foam booster in many hair products. CAB is a zwitterionic molecule, possessing both a positive and a negative charge, which create a polar, hydrophilic head group to the molecule. It has a hydrophobic tail, made up of a linear hydrocarbon chain that is usually 12 carbons in length. This gives the molecule a dual-nature that is responsible for its surfactant properties, enabling it to modify the surface and interfacial tension in aqueous solutions.

Cocamidopropyl betaine is a popular synthetic surfactant used as an emulsifier, cleansing agent, and foam booster in many hair products. 

It is favored by formulating chemists, as it is stable at a wide range of pH values and is compatible with many ingredients, including all of the usual surfactants. CAB can effectively remove most dirt, oils, and silicones from the surface of the hair. It is gentler and less irritating than surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, but it can still be fairly drying to the hair, especially if it is included at high concentrations or is not accompanied by replenishing moisturizing agents and emollients.

Betaine

Betaine is a moisturizing agent, but not a surfactant so it has no cleansing properties.

Betaine is found in hair conditioners and also in shampoos. It is a naturally-occurring amino acid (trimethylglycine”> obtained as a by-product of sugar beet molasses. It is a water soluble, hygroscopic molecule that belongs to an interesting category of compounds known as organic osmolytes. Due to their strong affinity for water, osmolytes are materials that affect osmosis, the definition of which should be etched permanently upon our memories from middle school biology: “the diffusion of water through a semi-permeable membrane”. Their humectant properties and their ability to accumulate in and around cellular interfaces permit these species to participate in cellular processes by helping maintain optimal fluid balance. Another important function of osmolytes is their role in stabilizing protein structures. By direct interaction with the polypeptide backbone of the protein, the osmolytes are able to maintain the preferred equilibrium state of the folded structure of the protein. In doing so, they disrupt destructive processes that would result in an unfolded protein conformation. This is very important for both hair and skin (and all specialized cells”>, because protein function is absolutely dependent upon this tertiary structure of the protein (folded versus unfolded”>.

When included in a hair conditioner, one role of betaine is to act as a moisturizing agent or humectant. One study showed that water retention in hair was improved by 6% when glycerol (glycerin”> was used, while a 40% increase was observed for betaine. Also, as a result of their direct interaction with the proteins in hair, betaine can improve the mechanical properties, such as strength and elasticity. Betaine improves shine by helping maintain the integrity of the cuticle surface. As an osmolyte, it also possesses the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum of the scalp, where it can optimize moisture in the skin cells and follicles, positively impacting the health of the scalp and contributing to healthier hair. Finally, betaine acts as a guardian for the structure of the keratin proteins in the hair, both in the cuticle and the cortex, and protects it from damage due to environmental causes.

While it is many things, betaine is not a surfactant, so it has no cleansing properties. It can enhance the texture and height of foam, so it may be added to shampoo formulas for that reason, in addition to its moisturizing and protective properties. But if it is in a conditioner that you wish to use as a gentle cleanser, it cannot provide that service.

Take-home message

With their similar names, it can be confusing as to what the roles of betaine and cocamidopropyl betaine are  in shampoos and conditioners. Since they are structurally very different, each one imparts unique properties to products in which they are present. Betaine is a naturally-obtained, high-performance additive for hair conditioners, useful for its moisturizing and structural protection abilities. It is not a surfactant or cleansing agent, but it is a humectant and protein protectant. Cocamidopropyl betaine is a synthetic surfactant, useful for cleansing the hair. Both ingredients are great to have in products for their own specific contributions, but it is great to know what each one is doing for your hair.

By Tonya McKay · Published April 23, 2014

Advances in scientific characterization techniques have enabled us to obtain unprecedented levels of information about nanoscale materials due to the ability to both directly and indirectly observe these materials in situ (in their natural environment”>. Fortunately for us in the curly world, one complex biological system that has received study is human hair. Through use of new methods, scientists have been able to identify and study the role of the multitudes of subspecies and structures present in hair. This has provided us with new insight regarding the cuticle-cuticle cell membrane complex (CCMC”>, and its major lipid component, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA”>. We have found that this relatively small fatty acid plays a very important role in the health and beauty of our hair, and it is becoming a bit of a buzzword in the industry. What exactly is 18-MEA, and how does it make such an important contribution? Perhaps more importantly, how can we protect the 18-MEA levels in our hair or replenish it if we have depleted it?

Cuticle glue and cushion

The protective cuticle layer that encapsulates the outer portion of each hair strand is a highly complex biocomposite structure made up of multiple layers of overlapping protein scales. Between each layer of scales, there exists a region called the cuticle-cuticle cell membrane complex, which is comprised of several layers of both delta and beta protein structures, a significant amount of 18-MEA covalently bonded to the b-protein structure, and a small amount of unbound lipids such as oleic and palmitic acid. This entire structure acts as a protective cushion and cement between the cuticle scale layers.

The covalently-bonded 18-MEA is responsible for providing hair with its hydrophobicity (water-repellent property”>, which protects hair by preventing it from absorbing too much water from the environment. It also provides hair with softness, lubricity, and shine. More significantly, an intact layer of 18-MEA acts to decrease tangling in wet hair and in the transition from wet to dry, by encouraging adjacent hair strands to lie neatly in parallel to one another, smoothly aligned. It does this due to its ability to decrease surface friction by changing the receding contact angle of water. When hair is lacking 18-MEA, the strands become entangled and stuck to one another, and the hair dries more quickly in these tangled packets, resulting in greater tangling when hair is dry.

Damage to the 18-MEA layer

18-MEA is not soluble in water and does not dissolve in most organic solvents, and since it is covalently bound, it is not easily removed via mechanical means. However, it is highly susceptible to alkaline hydrolysis and subsequent loss through rinsing, meaning that products and processes that use a higher pH possess the risk of destruction of your hair’s protective lipid layer. Loss of the protective 18-MEA layer renders hair hydrophilic, so that it absorbs too much water from the environment, which leads to frizz and physical damage to the hair due to swelling and breaking of structures. Hair lacking its lipid layer is also more prone to tangling, frizz, breakage, and loss of curl structure.

Some shampoos that have a higher pH, most soaps, and baking soda rinses can gradually deplete the 18-MEA layer in a cumulative fashion with each additional use. However, highly alkaline processes such as perm, relaxers, and synthetic dyes can cause sudden catastrophic depletion of the 18-MEA layer. For this reason, chemically processed hair is especially vulnerable to damage due to moisture and tangling. Loss of this 18-MEA layer is probably the characteristic we are describing when we say processed hair is porous. It is also important to note that exposure to light, both visible and ultraviolet (UV”>, also gradually decrease the 18-MEA content in hair.

Minimizing exposure to alkaline environments is one way to protect the health of your hair. Cleansers that have pH≤ 6.0 are the safest for your hair. Reducing the frequency with which you color or process your hair will also help. Protecting your hair from light is another good way to reduce loss of 18-MEA and other types of damage to your hair.

Replenishing the 18-MEA layer?

It would seem logical that we could just replace the 18-MEA that is removed from the hair by redepositing it via a product. However, we cannot exactly duplicate the work of nature, because 18-MEA is covalently bound to the beta-protein structure of the CCM. Fortunately, several companies have found that modified versions of 18-MEA (quaternized or delivered in mixtures with cationic surfactants”> will selectively deposit onto the surface of damaged hair and can restore its hydrophobicity, decrease tangling and combing friction, and increase shine. The effect was found to be cumulative with additional uses of the product. Undamaged hair is unchanged when treated with these mixtures, so this is specifically beneficial to those with color or perm-damaged hair.

If your hair is damaged due to the use of alkaline processes or higher pH cleansing methods, replacing some of the lost 18-MEA will go a long way toward making your hair feel and look healthier and shinier. However, this is relatively new technology, so it is still challenging to find products exploiting these materials. Trevor Sorbie has an entire line based upon the beneficial properties of 18-MEA, called the “18-MEA Lipid Shine™ Line.”Another product line that contains 18-MEA is Scientific Essentials “Simply Scientific Hair™ Products.”

By Tonya McKay · Published April 22, 2014

Unfortunately, hair is not exempt from the physical changes that happen as you age — it becomes drier, less lustrous, and for most of the population, gradual loss of pigment progresses from an occasional gray strand to a scattering of gray hairs throughout the scalp, culminating at some point into completely gray or white hair.

Usually, in a person’s thirties (or earlier, depending upon genetics or health factors”>, their melanocytes begin to slow down in their production of melanin. This typically occurs just in a few follicles and then gradually spreads throughout the scalp. Random hairs may become lighter and may not even be noticed, but eventually some begin to show as gray or white. This is much more noticeable in darker hair, so the perception is often that people with black hair go gray earlier, but that is probably not the case. As melanin particles disappear from the cortex, certain changes to the structure and properties of the hair can be expected. While people do experience their gray hair as being very similar to their pigmented hair, this is definitely not universally true. It is possible that those who had more highly pigmented hair to begin with (brunette, as opposed to blonde”> will experience greater changes in the physical properties of their hair once those pigments are gone.

How Hair Pigment Works

Specialized cells called melanocytes reside around the follicle from which hair grows. These cells manufacture melanin, a water insoluble biopolymer produced by the amino acid tyrosine, and they disperse it into the cortex of developing strands of hair as they emerge from the follicle. Melanin is the substance responsible for pigment in our skin and hair, and it comes in three forms. Eumelanin is responsible for brown and black hair, and pheomelanin yields red hues. Mixtures of the types of pigments, as well as the concentration and distribution of the melanin particles result in varying shades of hair color present in nature.

Melanin exists as granules that are dispersed throughout the cortex in human hair, amongst the proteins, water molecules, and fatty acids. These granules have differing geometry and distribution, depending upon which type they are. Eumelanin is generally evenly distributed throughout the cortex, has an oval shape, and has sharply defined edges. Pheomelanin is more randomly distributed in the cortex and also is more irregularly shaped, often having both an oval shaped end and a rod-like end. The presence of these particles in the cortex may contribute to some of the mechanical properties of the hair strand, such as elasticity and strength. Another important role of melanin is to act as a protectant from environmental damage by absorbing ultraviolet radiation. The structure of the polymer enables it to absorb UV energy and release it as heat via a photochemical process, thereby preventing it from attacking and damaging the protein structures of the hair.

Graying Hair

Once melanocytes are no longer manufacturing melanin, they die. Their absence sometimes causes the follicle to change shape slightly, which results in a slightly different shape for subsequent hairs that grow from that follicle. This is important, because the geometry of a hair strand is a significant contributing factor to the curl pattern, or lack thereof, for that hair. This explains why the texture of some gray hairs often varies significantly from the rest of the hair. This can certainly be perplexing and frustrating.

One notable feature of gray hair that can contribute to its having different properties from pigmented hair is the presence of a medulla. Most animal fur contains a central hollow core called the medulla, which provides insulation for the mammal. In contrast, this feature is generally missing in human hair, but sometimes appears in white strands. This presence of this hollow core may change the physical properties of the hair, making it more wiry and unruly.

An additional explanation for variations in the properties of white hair is found in the absence of melanin particles from the cortex. This changes the overall structure of the region, which may affect properties of the hair, such as curl pattern, elasticity, or strength. Also, the cuticle of gray hair strands is often tighter than pigmented hair, making it more difficult to process chemically as well. This is especially relevant when attempting to hide gray hair with color. Gray hair typically needs a longer processing time or a pre-treatment to open the cuticle to allow penetration of the artificial dyes.

Perhaps the most significant feature of white hair is its vulnerability to damage from the sun. The absence of its natural sunscreen, melanin, leaves hair highly susceptible to mechanical degradation from UV radiation. This can lead to broken hairs, split ends, frizz, excessive tangling, and cuticle damage. The surface of hair can even lose its natural hydrophobic protection and become hydrophilic, allowing far too much water to penetrate into the hair, causing irrevocable damage. White hair is also vulnerable to yellowing from the sun due to oxidation.

Caring for Gray Hair

Gray and white hair behave differently from your pigmented hair. It may be curlier, straighter, or wirier than the hair of your youth. It is also drier, more delicate, and prone to breakage or yellowing. Despite your best efforts, it may also be resistant to coverage when chemical dye processes are attempted. Some of these changes may require you to manage your own expectations and learn how to work with the hand you have been dealt, but many of the challenges can be overcome by making some adjustments to your usual routine. Take charge of your gray hair by embracing its differences and nourishing it daily. Gray hair, dyed or not, can be healthy and beautiful!

1. Condition, condition, condition. Your gray hair requires more moisture than your once youthful, delicate curly locks. Natural oils, honey or agave treatments, deep conditioning protein packs, as well as daily leave-in conditioners can all help optimize the health of these fragile strands.
2. Apply color to gray or white hair first, and let it sit longer to ensure penetration of the dyes. Some salons recommend application of a peroxide solution to gray hair prior to coloring, in order to prepare the cuticle, but use caution as this could be more damaging to the hair.
3. If your gray covers more than 35% of your scalp, consider using a clarifying shampoo or vinegar rinse about once a month so to remove mineral build up that can cause discoloration of your hair.
4. Be mindful that heat can be more damaging to white hair. Minimize its exposure to extreme high temperatures found in many straightening processes particularly.
5. Protect your hair from harmful UV rays! Wear a hat, swim cap, or scarf if you plan to spend a lot of time in the sun. Use conditioning and styling products that contain UV-absorbing ingredients, such as cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride or octyl methoxy cinnamate, which have been found to significantly reduce the negative effects of the sun on the mechanical properties of the hair. In addition to maintaining the mechanical integrity of the hair, these have been found to reduce yellowing of white and gray hair.

By Tonya McKay · Published March 21, 2014

PHOTO TORI LOCKLEAR

By now you’ve likely encountered the hair tutorial gone wrong that resulted in unassuming YouTuber Tori Locklear losing a full section of hair. The country gasped with her when she realized what high heat had done to her hair, and many of us thought twice before touching a flat iron or curling wand to our strands again.

Temperatures encountered during blow-drying, flat-iron straightening, and hot curling processes can be high enough to cause severe trauma to the hair. Results of this can include cracks in the cuticle layer, bubbles or voids in the cortex, frayed and split ends, chipped and ragged cuticles, faded color, diminished curl and increased frizz, as well as, in Tori’s case, broken strands. If avoiding high heat styling methods is not an option, it is important to take precautions to prevent or minimize damage. There are a number of products on the market advertised as heat protectant sprays, lotions, and serums which claim to prevent or repair the detrimental effects of high temperatures on hair. Are these products effective, and if so, how do they work, and which ingredients are responsible for their performance?

Heat & Hair

Flat-irons, curling, irons, and blow driers all impose extreme thermal stresses upon hair strands. With temperatures exceeding the boiling point of water (100°C”> and reaching as high as 200°C or more, damage can occur by several different mechanisms.

Dehydration

One heat-induced phenomenon responsible for damage to hair is loss of moisture. Water molecules inside the cortex, both free and bound to keratin proteins, provide critical support to the structure and properties of hair. Evaporation of these molecules due to application of heat can alter the internal protein structure and change the intermolecular interactions that govern the mechanical properties of individual hair strands. This can change curl patterns, cause frizz, and result in hair that is less bouncy and more prone to breakage. The tactile feels of the hair is less pleasant too, having a straw-like texture. This sort of damage is pretty common with routine blow-drying.

Rapid Water Loss

The extremely high temperatures encountered in flat-iron straightening or even straightening using a hair dryer and round brush create intense conditions that can cause water to rapidly boil or “flash” off from sites where it resides within the interior of the hair shaft. This rapid boiling can create voids in the hair structure that can be seen via microscopy and look like strings of bubbles within the strand. These can cause ruptures that burst through the cuticle, leaving gaping spots in the hair, which inevitably lead to split ends and breakage. Cracks can form in the cuticle as well, making the hair vulnerable to further moisture loss and breakage. This type of damage is both severe and completely irreparable.

Protein Damage

Hair strands are complex biomaterials that derive the bulk of their properties from the keratin protein structures in the cuticle and cortex. Thermal degradation from styling tools can occur via softening of the keratin, disruption of the three-dimensional structures due to water loss, and conformational changes in the protein. All of these changes can adversely affect the strength, elasticity, curl, shine, and texture of the hair.

Oxidation of pigment particles

High temperatures can also cause oxidation of pigments found in hair, both naturally occurring ones and artificial hair color. This fading is particularly pronounced in reds, auburns and lighter brunette shades.

MORE: After-Party Hair Repair: Treat That Heat Damage

Products that Protect

Heat protectants are products marketed with the claim that they prevent damage to hair from high temperature styling. Multiple studies have shown that these can be very effective in reducing, but not eliminating thermal trauma to hair. How do they work? The key ingredients in heat protectant products work in a few different ways.

Reduction of moisture loss

Since it is clearly very harmful for hair to lose its precious water molecules, one of the key tasks of a heat protectant is to both maximize and seal in moisture. Humectants such as panthenol, propylene glycol, and phytantriol are used to bind as much water as possible to the hair. Polymers, silicones, and some botanical oils are used to seal the water inside the cortex. They achieve this by coating and encapsulating the strand of hair in a film through which water cannot diffuse. Testing of both control samples and silicone-treated hair strands via thermogravimetric analysis (TGA”> showed that silicone treatment significantly improved moisture retention.

Insulation from high temperatures

Silicones (especially amine-functional ones, such as amodimethicone,”> some polyquats, and copolymers of acrylates are particularly effective at minimizing the damaging effects of heat styling due to their low thermal conductivity. When evenly distributed across the hair surface into a protective film, these materials act as insulators by reducing the transfer of heat from the styling tool to the hair strand. Data from thermal analysis (DSC- differential scanning calorimetry”> confirmed that heat flow was reduced to hair samples treated with these types of materials.

Raw materials suppliers such as Dow Corning, Croda, and GE have also used scanning electron microscopy (SEM”> and mechanical testing to evaluate the levels of protection from damage provided by various silicones and heat protectant polymers, and they found that crack formation, cuticle damage, void formation, and loss of strength and elasticity were all reduced when hair was treated with a heat protectant polymer.

What Can We Learn from Tori’s Mistake

If you enjoy the results of occasionally flat-iron straightening or blow drying your hair, heat protectant products can make a real difference in how your hair handles those extreme conditions. However, it is important to note that while thermal protection products containing the right mix of humectants and insulating materials can help reduce damage, they cannot completely prevent it. This means that if heat styling is frequently used, cumulative damage will occur. The only way to fix that type of damage is to cut off all the affected length. So, if you prefer to wear your hair long, use heat rarely. Another thing to keep in mind is that some of the polymers and silicones used by these products to encapsulate the hair strand may be difficult to remove and have been known to cause hair to feel sticky or tacky with repeat use.

MORE: I Tried a Dominican Blowout

By Tonya McKay · Published February 27, 2014

Where does it come from?

Among the many botanical based ingredients currently popular in hair care routines, amla is perhaps the one that seems the most mysterious, at least from a chemistry point of view.

Amla is derived from the fruit of the Indian gooseberry or Phyllanthus emblica L., a deciduous tree found in both the tropical and subtropical portions of the Indian and Southeastern Asian countries.

The lemon-sized fruit is greenish yellow with attractive vertical striations and has a bitter, sour, and sweet taste. While amla fruit is primarily composed of water, it also contains a variety of sugars, carbohydrates, protein, fiber, minerals, and contains very high amounts of ascorbic acid (vitamin C”>. For many centuries it has been prized by practitioners of Ayurvedic medicine as well as many other groups for its reportedly amazing medicinal attributes as well as for its beneficial properties for hair and skin.

What does it do?

Advocates who support topical use of amla for hair claim that it is has many uses:

• cleansing agent
• deep conditioning treatment
• dandruff remedy
• prevents graying of hair
• darkens hair without use of dyes
• imparts shine
• improves hair growth

Too good to be true?

It certainly sounds too good to be true. What exactly is in the amla that is sold for domestic use? Does its composition and chemistry lend any credibility to the many bold claims?

Unless you are fortunate to have access to the fresh fruit, amla is generally available as either a powder or oil. The light brown powder is obtained by drying the entire fruit and grinding it into a powder. The amla oil is actually made by soaking the dried fruit in another oil such as coconut, sesame seed, and sometimes mineral oil. Some of the components of the dried fruit seep into the carrier oil, which is filtered to remove the bits of fruit prior to market. This means that most amla oil products being sold are actually more of a botanical infusion of amla in coconut, sesame, or mineral oil. Although it is possible to extract the fatty acids from the seeds of the amla fruit in the same manner as they are extracted from coconuts, avocados, shea nuts, and argan fruit, it has not been the traditional manner of using this fruit.

ELLAGIC ACID

Chemical make-up of the amla powder

Since the dried powder is made from the whole fruit, it contains all of the nutrients found in the amla, including the fatty acids from the seeds, glucose and the complex carbohydrates, vitamins, phytochemicals, protein, and minerals. The fatty acids found in the seeds are predominantly polyunsaturated ones (~63%”>, with the remainder being made up of 27% monounsaturated fatty acids and 9-10% medium to long chain saturated fatty acids. These molecules are generally too large and unwieldy to penetrate into the cortex of a hair strand, so they coat the outside of the hair and provide some slip and emollient properties.

Amla & Vitamin C

Amla powder also contains large amounts of vitamin C, which acts as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent, and also may stimulate collagen growth in scalp tissue.

Vitamin C also has antimicrobial properties that can help fight dandruff and other infections of the scalp. The mildly acidifying properties of vitamin C may also enhance the strength and quality of the cuticle layer of the hair and add some shine. Too much vitamin C can be drying to the hair though, so this is probably a good reason to use this powder only occasionally.

Gallic & Ellagic Acid

Two other interesting components of amla powder are phytochemicals gallic acid and ellagic acid. Gallic acid is a phenol molecule that has antiviral, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. It was also used to make ink in Europe and the Mediterranean regions for at least 2,000 years.  While it has not been studied for this purpose, perhaps gallic acid is the agent responsible for the anecdotal reports of gradual darkening of the hair when amla is used over time. Ellagic acid is a polyphenol found in many fruits, especially red ones such as raspberries. It is also documented to have antifungal, antiviral, and antioxidant properties.

These acids could also act as chelating agents to help remove some metals from the hair. Both gallic acid and ellagic acid can also combine with glucose, also present in amla powder, to form polymeric tannic acids.  These may also darken hair over time, as tea has also been used for its tannic acid to darken and dye fabric and hair. It seems doubtful that amla powder can prevent graying of hair or that it can perform any miracles, but it does seem as if it could provide some benefits to hair.

How to use amla powder

1. Soak the amla powder in water to form a paste, which can then be applied to hair as a mask or used to scrub the scalp. The aroma from this fruit can be fairly unpleasant, so you can add a small amount of an essential oil or botanical extract to give it a more pleasant scent. 
2. To prevent a mess, use a shower cap to cover your head while the mixture has some time to sit on your scalp and hair. 
3. Once you have allowed the treatment to sit for a while, gently remove it by rinsing hair under warm, running water and carefully working it out of your hair.  
4. Follow up with conditioner if your hair feels like it needs more slip.  
5. Another way to use amla powder is to simply add some to a small amount of conditioner and apply it after it has had a chance to become slightly hydrated. Rinse normally.

Amla Oil

Oils labeled “amla oil” are actually perhaps more accurately called infusions of amla fruit in an oil base.

The carrier oils used are primarily sesame, coconut, almond, or mineral oil and sometimes contain other botanical extracts, such as Ayurvedic herbs, rosemary, and even henna.

It is likely that most of the effects of these products can be attributed to the oil and other actives in the product. Unlike the powdered fruit, these oils contain virtually no vitamin C, as it is not oil soluble. However, there may be some of the phytochemcials, gallic and ellagic acid, present in the oil mixture so it may provide some of the benefits, such as the antioxidant effects, as well as the antifungal and antiviral. Some darkening of the hair may also occur over time with repeat use, although this seems less likely than with the powder.

How to use it

If you wish to try amla in this form, look for one in a plant-based oil to derive the most benefit, and use it as you would coconut or almond oil. You can use it as a scalp treatment, a deep conditioning treatment, or simply add it to your leave-in conditioner, styling product, or directly to your ends.

It is always fun to try new things, or in this case, really old things. Although it is not likely to be a miracle cure for all that ails you and your hair, amla does sound as if it could provide some benefits for your hair and scalp.

Curlies will need to make sure they add plenty of moisturizers and emollients if they use the powder, as it does not have much to offer as far as conditioning on its own. If you already incorporate amla in your regimen and love it or tried it and hated it, we would love to hear about your experience!

By Tonya McKay · Published November 26, 2013

Argan oil has been hailed as a cure-all for all your hair and skin care woes. The rave reviews are enough to convince anyone to put some argan oil in your shopping cart – that is, until you see the price. With a 1.7 ounce bottle costing up to $50 and so many other (cheaper”> hair oils available on the market, any smart consumer would want to understand what exactly you’re investing in.

NaturallyCurly’s Curl Chemist, Tonya McKay, breaks down the science behind argan oil.

MORE: Argan Oil Hair Products

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By Tonya McKay · Published October 16, 2013

Humectants can greatly help or hurt your hair’s moisture levels. Understanding the science behind humectants will help you use them to your advantage.

Understanding Humectants

Humectants are materials used in products to moisturize dry or damaged hair.  They promote moisture retention by attracting water molecules from the local environment and binding them to specific sites along their structure.  

Adsorption vs Absorption

Absorption is the process whereby a substance passes into the bulk of a material and are dissolved uniformly throughout.   The solution cannot be easily separated into the original two substances.

Adsorption describes the process whereby atoms or molecules are attracted to and adhere to the surface of a material, usually via forces weak enough that they can be easily separated. Some humectants can adsorb several times their weight in water!

In humectants, this happens via hydrogen bonding – a very important phenomenon based upon polarity of specific atoms.

Polarity

Molecules are made of combinations of different atoms.  Sometimes the atoms have significant differences in their ‘electronegativity’, generating a charge separation where part of the molecule is more positive and the other is more negative.  When this happens, even though the overall charge on the substance is neutral, the molecule has distinct polarity. Imagine a magnet, with its positive end and negative end, and how they can link together end-to-end.

Molecules like water (H2O”> have polarity due to the oxygen being much more electronegative than the hydrogen atoms.  The mildly negative oxygen atom is attracted to the mildly positive hydrogen atoms in other water molecules, and they move close to one another and form a bridge, called a hydrogen bond.  Each oxygen can form a hydrogen bond with two hydrogen atoms.  The triangular geometry  of water molecules allows them to stack together into a complex three-dimensional array.

Humectant molecules have polar hydroxyl groups (-OH”> that also favor hydrogen bonding.  When applied to hair in a styling or conditioning product, they can attract water from the environment around them and bring it into close contact with the hair.

Humectants and Hair

When humectants bring water into contact with the hair, some can diffuse into the shaft of the hair.  This can add suppleness and softness to slightly dry hair.  It can make hair more bouncy and help it retain curl.  Hair can recoil more easily from mechanical stress and is less likely to break.

Humidity Concerns

In high humidity conditions, humectants may attract too much water to the hair from the wet environment.  This can cause the hair shaft to swell, the cuticle to become ruffled, and hair to lose its shape and become big and frizzy. Porous hair suffers from this problem more so than non-porous hair.  Some humectants may develop a sticky texture in these conditions as well.  This is not pleasant!

In extremely low humidity conditions, humectants may draw water out of the interior of the hair shaft and cause dryness and possible damage or breakage.  Use caution!

Humectants Can Help

• Make hair feel softer

• Make hair bouncier

• Make hair more elastic and less brittle

• Protect  hair from dry weather and wind

Humectants Can Harm

• Can create frizzy, sticky hair in high humidity

• Can dry out hair in low humidity

• Can cause permanent damage to hair in either extreme condition

Common Humectants

Diols and Triols

Propylene glycol

1,2,6 hexanetriol

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Glycerin

Triethylene glycol

Erythritol

Capryl glycol

Phytantriol

Hexanediol or -triol beeswax

Humectants of biological origin

Panthenol

Sodium PCA

Hyaluronic acid

Inositol

Glycogen

Sugars and modified sugars

Sorbitol

Polyglyceryl sorbitol

Glucose

Fructose

Xylitol

Hydrolyzed proteins

Elastin, collagen, silk, keratin

Ethers

Isoceteth-x, Isolaureth-x, Laneth-x, Laureth-x, Steareth-x

PEG-x (polyethylene glycol”>

Silicone copolyols

Structural formulae for some common humectants: Glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, glucose, and sodium PCA (from left to right, top to bottom”>  All images except Sodium PCA courtesy of Wikipedia. Sodium PCA image courtesy of chemblink.com.

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By Tonya McKay · Published August 12, 2013

Uses of tea tree oil

A renewed interest in natural substances has increased the availability of tea tree oil as a home remedy, and has also inspired research into its composition and beneficial properties.  While it should never be taken internally due to potential toxicity, it is fantastic for topical treatment at home of

• dandruff
• hair growth
• acne
• ingrown hair
• superficial wounds
• bug bites
• thrush
• athlete’s foot
• fever blisters

Tea tree oil also acts as an anti-oxidant. It has been established in several preliminary studies that MRSA (methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus”> is susceptible to topically-applied tea tree oil. Additionally, it is being studied for its potential use a treatment in some forms of cancer. While those are all rather lofty applications for tea tree oil, it also has benefits for personal care and cosmetic use.

For your scalp

The antibacterial properties of tea tree oil enable it to be very effective in the treatment of acne, with fewer undesirable side effects than benzoyl peroxide.  This is excellent news for those who suffer from this problem on their body, face, or scalp.  It can also be used to treat areas of ingrown hairs or infected follicles caused by shaving.  As an antifungal agent, a shampoo or scalp massage oil that contains tea tree oil helps get rid of dandruff and cradle cap.  Tea tree oil is an effective solvent for sebum and other dirt or oily buildup on the scalp and hair, so it can be used to help provide a clear, clean surface that can absorb moisture and conditioning products more readily.  Additionally, scalp massage with tea tree oil can help stimulate blood flow and reduce inflammation in the follicular cells, which may help enhance hair growth. It is very important to dissolve tea tree oil into another oil medium prior to applying it to the skin and hair though, as it can be very irritating and drying when used in its undiluted form.

For your hair

Based upon its properties, tea tree oil is a viable solution for those with dandruff, itchy scalp, and problems with sebum buildup.  Preparing a solution that is no more than 5% by weight of tea tree oil and massaging it into the scalp and hair may provide excellent benefits.  It can be dissolved into a conditioner, shampoo, or a carrier oil such as olive oil, coconut oil, or jojoba oil.  While there is no definitive proof that it helps stimulate hair growth, it does seem likely to provide the optimal environment for scalp and follicular health, when applied occasionally in the proper concentration.  Remember that it is an effective solvent of oil, which means it can be stripping and drying if used too often or in too strong of a solution.  (Never use it straight!”>  Using it as an occasional clarifying agent for hair that is predominantly conditioner washed or that may have buildup of styling product on it is may also provide some benefit and make it easier to rehydrate and condition your hair.  So use sparingly, and to good effect!

Compared to other oils

How does tea tree oil differ from other botanical oils often used for hair and skin care?  Botanical oils, such as coconut oil, shea butter, olive oil, jojoba oil, and almond oil are obtained via the pressing and mechanical extraction of the fats within the fruits from which they are procured.  These fats, called triglycerides, are large molecules comprised of glycerin with three medium chain fatty acids bonded to it.  The hydrophobic nature and physical structure of these oils enable them to behave as excellent lubricants and emollients for hair and skin.  Tea tree oil is an essential oil, which is obtained via steam distillation, fractional distillation, or solvent extraction of the leaves or stems of a plant.  The resultant product is a mixture of volatile organic compounds that have distinctive smells and useful properties, but which do not have the structure to act as lubricants or emollients for hair or skin.

Tea tree oil specifically is made up of dozens of constituents, the majority of which are terpenes, sesquiterpenes, and their corresponding alcohols. Terpenes and sesquiterpenes are a large class of naturally occurring compounds with strong medical relevance, as touched upon briefly in the previous paragraphs.  In addition to their medicinal properties, some (such as limonene and linalool”> are used as fragrance additives in cleaning and cosmetic products. The major component in tea tree oil is the monoterpenic alcohol terpinen-4-ol, which comprises anywhere from 30-48% of the oil. Many of the complex benefits of tea tree oil have been attributed to this species.  Some of the components of tea tree oil are toxic or irritants though, which is why it should not be ingested and should be diluted when applied topically. Several cases have been reported where tea tree oil exhibited estrogenic and antiandrogenic properties, so for this reason, frequency of use, concentration of tea tree oil in the product,  and surface of area of coverage may be important factors to keep in mind.

Origin of Tea Tree Oil

Tea tree oil is a distinctively pungent essential oil obtained from the needle-like leaves of the Melaleuca alternifolia, a plant that grows in wet, marshy areas of New South Wales and Queensland in Australia.  It has long been prized by the indigenous Aboriginal people of Australia for its properties as an anti-infective and antifungal agent.  Commercial farming of tea trees (so-named by British explorer,Captain James Cook, circa 1770″>  began once the medicinal properties of tea tree oil were studied, documented and published by Australian chemist, Dr. Arthur Penfold in the 1920’s”>. Subsequently, it became a common household remedy in Australia, and later was included as an indispensable tool in the medical and first aid kits for Australian soldiers during World War II. Demand for tea tree oil declined once antibiotics became widely available in the post-war era, and academic research focus also drifted toward more ‘modern’ topics.

By Tonya McKay · Published June 5, 2013

A relatively recent addition to the vast portfolio of silicone ingredients available for use in hair care products appears to be gaining popularity amongst formulators, as it is present in a number of new products on the market.  This silicone has an INCI designation (international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients”> that is a mouthful, and it reveals little information regarding its nature to the typical consumer reading a label: propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone.  As many people have become more particular about the ingredients they use on their hair, especially silicone derivatives, it is not surprising that this one gives some consumers pause as they wonder what it is and whether it is “okay to use.”  Since there are almost as many different definitions of “okay to use” as there are people who choose to offer their opinion on the matter, gaining an understanding of the chemical structure and properties of the ingredient can help aid you in making your own determination for your hair.

What is it?

Propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone (henceforth PTMPD”> is a unique, patented cationically-modified silicone described by its makers as a “hindered amino functional silicone fluid.”  It belongs to the same general category as other amine-functionalized silicones, such as amodimethicone and bis-aminopropyl dimethicone.  These silicones have been modified by adding pendant groups suspended from the main silicone chain that contain organo-amine groups (-R-NH2″>, which become positively charged in water due to electrostatic interactions.  The result is a cationic polymer (positively-charged”> that possesses many exceptional beneficial properties for use in hair and skin care applications.

Amine-functionalized silicones are excellent conditioning and protective agents for hair, as they are drawn via electrostatic attraction to its negatively-charged keratin surface.  Once deposited, they spread easily into smooth films that form cross-linked laminate structures that encapsulate and protect both the cuticle and hair shaft.  They are highly valued for their ability to protect hair from thermal damage and to improve color retention.  They also impart a high degree of shine, making hair appear very glossy and healthy.  Like other silicones, they also ease detangling and give hair a soft, silky texture by reducing friction between adjacent strands of hair. Reduction of static electricity and fly-away hair is an additional benefit of these types of silicones.

What makes propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone unique?

While propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone shares similarities with amodimethicone, it is sometimes found to exceed the performance of amodimethicone in hair care applications.  The reason for this is its chemical structure.   PTMPD is synthesized by the addition of a sterically hindered amine group to the silicone polymer.  Steric hindrance is an organic chemistry term for limited access to a particular portion of a molecule due to the structure of the molecule being sufficiently bulky to physically crowd the site.  Hindered amines (piperidines”> are valued for their ability to act as photostabilizers for polymer systems.  They act as radical scavengers, and thus perform well as anti-oxidants.

Is it Water Soluble?

This question always comes up in these discussions because some users prefer to not apply shampoos or soaps to their hair, and they want to use ingredients that can be easily rinsed off with water or with a mild conditioning rinse.  The simple answer to this question for this ingredient is “no”.  PTMPD is not water soluble.

Here is where confusion occurs, and it is worthwhile to attempt to provide some clarity.   The preparation of hair care products is a complex science involving the mixing of hydrophilic and hydrophobic substances together to create a product that consistently performs in the manner expected and retains its beneficial properties for a predictable period of time.  A fundamental scientific theory taught to us all at an early age is that oil and water do not mix. Fortunately, this inherent limitation can be overcome via the use of emulsifiers and stabilizers and mixing the ingredients in just the right order. It is unacceptable for the oils to separate from the aqueous phase, or for the preservatives to settle to the bottom, or for the opacifiers to crystallize and precipitate from the solution. Additionally, preparing the mixtures and emulsions should require the least amount of time and heat energy possible in order to maximize profit for the manufacturer.  This is not a trivial assignment, and the application of much scientific theory goes into the process.

Silicones bring added difficulty to the table for formulators and product manufacturers, due to their insolubility in both water and in most organic oils.  This requires them to be pre-emulsified by mixing them with multiple surfactants (usually a nonionic and cationic one”> in water to form an aqueous emulsion or micro-emulsion.  The droplets of silicone form an aggregate with the nonionic and cationic surfactants and are suspended inside micelles (tiny spheres”> that are dispersed in the aqueous phase of the solution.  The outer shell of these micelles is the hydrophilic portion of the surfactants, which renders these particles soluble in water.  This emulsion can then be added to an aqueous shampoo or conditioning product fairly easily.  To save time and resources at the final production site, oftentimes the raw materials manufacturer will simply provide the materials as a pre-made micro-emulsion.

So, it is important to remember that the PTMPD (and other amine-functionalized silicones”> is not water soluble itself, but is grouped with other materials to make it be so for the sake of the product manufacturing process as well as for the  stability of the final product.  Once the product is applied to the hair, the positively-charged silicone and the positively-charged cationic surfactant both separately adhere to various negative sites on the surface of the hair, forming a protective, emollient film, and the nonionic surfactants are washed away.  The micelle cluster no longer exists, and the polymer is completely insoluble in water.

Once applied to the hair, propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone is highly substantive due to the ionic bonds formed between itself and the negatively-charged surface of the cuticle. A powerful anionic (negatively-charged”> surfactant is necessary to remove this type of polymer form the hair.  Even then, it may be highly resistant to removal. This property is considered to be favorable by most formulators, as it means that the benefits imparted by the ingredient will persist over multiple washings.  It does not build up on itself, and it does not attract organic oils to itself, so those will also not build up on top of it.

However, some users have expressed their belief that this persistent film caused their hair to become dehydrated, frizzy, or unpleasant in texture.  While this experience is not universal, this anecdotal evidence certainly cannot be dismissed or discounted.  One might also speculate whether the anti-oxidant properties diminish over time, or whether the optical properties of the film change and result in a duller appearance to the hair.

In closing, it is clear that amine-functionalized silicones provide many advantageous properties when used in hair care products. Among these are high gloss, lightweight conditioning, fewer tangles, and protection from thermal damage.  This particular polymer, PTMPD, provides even greater benefits in terms of color retention, sun protection, and intensive, targeted conditioning properties for damaged hair.  However, if one ascribes to shampoo-free methods of hair maintenance, this silicone might be too difficult to remove from your hair and could create unpleasant side effects over time.  If you have been displeased with the results of amodimethicone on your hair, this might be another silicone to avoid as well.  However, for most people, products containing PTMPD can be a really nice addition to the hair beautification and protection arsenal.

References

http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20120178324 (HA info patent”>

Urrutia, Adriana, Silicone: The Basis of a Perfect Formulation for Hair Care,

Dow Corning de Mexico S.A. de C.V.

By Tonya McKay · Published May 5, 2013

Michelle before her keratin treatment.

So let me start off by saying, I love my curls. It’s taken me a long time to get to this point, but I no longer long for straight hair (Okay, maybe every now and then on an excessively humid day”>.

So when I saw the whole keratin treatment explosion, I had no desire to take the plunge. That began to change when I ran into a stylist at a hair show who had the most beautiful, shiny, defined curls, and he told me he had gotten a keratin treatment. Otherwise, his curls would be a mass of frizz, he said.

The seed was planted. Maybe this is something that could work for me.

So when Brazilian Blowout offered me the opportunity to try it out, I decided it might be worth taking them up on the offer. Especially since so many of our readers were in my shoes: they liked their curls but wanted them looser and frizz free.

Consultation is an important part of the process; here Michelle talks with stylist Felice Partida.

That doesn’t mean I wasn’t scared to death. In fact, as the day approached for my Brazilian Blowout, I felt like a kid anticipating a dental appointment. I had flashbacks to college when I got a “chemical haircut.” A stylist applied a lye-based relaxer after I had already had a thio relaxer — something I’ve learned you never, ever do. Handfuls of hair came out for days, and I had to have my hair cut short to hide the bald spots. To say it was traumatic would be an understatement. My boyfriend at the time told me it looked like my forehead had grown.

I feared I would lose the curls I have worked so hard to love. Not only that, my curls are important to my business. I am a co-founder of NaturallyCurly, and it wouldn’t reflect well for me to show up with stick-straight hair. I’m not saying that’s not the right choice for many of our readers. Just not for me.

So when I met with stylist Felice Partida of James Allan Salon in Austin, I grilled her. Would I still have curls? How would they look? Did she guarantee I would still be a curly? Although the majority of clients who she’s done them on straighten their hair on a regular basis, she assured me I would still have my texture.

Here, Michelle’s hair is sectioned and the treatment applied.

So we began the process.

First, she took me back to the shampoo bowl to clarify shampoo my hair with the Brazilian Blowout specially formulated Anti-Residue Professional Shampoo to prepare my hair and get out all the styling gunk.

Then she brought out “the treatment.” It was much different than I expected. It looked and smelled like lotion, without any chemical smell. That reassured me.

After towel drying, she divided my hair into sections and begin to comb the Brazilian Blowout Professional Treatment through each section of the hair from root to tip, lightly lightly coating each section with the solution. It was hard for me to believe this could actually do anything, but Felice explained that the solution surrounded each hair shaft with protective protein layers to smooth and flattened the cuticle. I took her word for it.

The stylist blows out Michelle’s hair.

Then she took out her round brush and went to work with the blow dryer. I have not blown my hair straight in a decade, so it was strange to see myself with straight hair. Once my hair was dry, Felice divided it into four sections and begin using a flat iron to further straighten the hair in 2- to 3-inch sections. It did feel soft and was incredibly shiny. But I didn’t like myself with straight hair. It grew by what seemed like two feet.

I was so over the straight-haired look, but it didn’t last long anyway. Felice took me back to the shampoo bowl where she rinsed it (no shampoo”> and applied the Brazillian Blowout Masque to further seal in the professional formulation. After 60 seconds, she rinsed it again.

Michelle with straightened hair. It looks nice, but we like her better curly!

She offered to blow it out again, but I opted not to. I wanted to make sure my curls were still there. So I diffused my hair and was reassured to see curls. One issue, which is common when people have this done, is they may need a hair cut since the hair is longer. Luckily, curl guru Ethan Shaw was at the ready to give me a quick dry cut.

Initially, it was a little bit of a shock to have such loose curls. But this morning, I enjoyed having a swishy ponytail during my spin class. And there was no frizz after the workout.

And after doing my hair myself with my usual routine and products, I liked the added shine and looser curls. My hair is much less frizzy and I haven’t had the shrinkage I usually do.

Felice said the process will last approximately 12 weeks, gradually reverting to its original texture.

Will I do it again? Quite possibly, especially as the humidity kicks in and frizz season arrives full force.

It is costly—$250 to $450, depending on the salon. But it can be a lifesaver, especially for people who straighten their hair on a regular basis. Felice, who does several Brazilian Blowouts a week, said she’s still amazed at the results. And her clients have overwhelmingly been happy with the results. I am one of the few who actually wanted to keep it curly.

So far, so good!

2013 Update – My Advice:

I think people have a misconception that a keratin treatment is only for people who straighten their hair. I didn’t want straight hair. I wanted more defined curls with less frizz. That’s what this did for me. You do need to make sure that the stylist doing your treatment has been well trained. I’ve heard horror stories about people who lost their curls or ended up with damaged hair.

See a video of Michelle’s experience:

Check out Brazilian Blowout’s Facebook page.

By Tonya McKay · Published February 15, 2013

Low Heat Styling: Gentle or Damaging?

Heat styling has long been an accessible method to achieve a new hair style, whether it’s a carefully curled look or a glossy straight one.

Unfortunately, subjecting hair to the high temperatures of blow drying, curling, or flat ironing can have disastrous effects on its health and beauty. This is especially true for delicate, curly hair with its tendency to be particularly vulnerable to structural damage and breakage.

For this reason, many naturally curly haired people avoid using heat on their hair at all and rely upon air drying, scrunching or pineappling, and strategic placement of clips to impart body and shape to their tresses. However, the occasional yearning for a temporarily smooth, flat hairdo is felt by many, and the allure of the flat iron is ever present.

Low Heat Styling Tools

Many styling tools offer options to operate the equipment at lower temperatures. Recently, one company (CoolWay™, The Low heat Revolution“> has been marketing a low heat flat iron styling system as a way to safely achieve straight tresses without all the damage.  Among other things, their appealing claims boast that their system reduces drying time, increases hair strength by 300%, reduces breakage by 75%, and reduces frizz by 50%.

But are lower temperatures truly safer for your hair, and if so, what is the temperature threshold for safe usage?  Answers to that question can be found in a deeper understanding of how thermal damage occurs, the role water plays, and finally the mechanism and efficacy of thermal protection serums in its prevention.

What does heat do to hair?

Breaks hydrogen bonds

Application of heat to the hair breaks hydrogen bonds, and the use of tension or pressure allows hair to be re-shaped so that the new hydrogen bonds form to support the new shape (straight or curled”>.  These bonds generally remain in place until the hair is washed again or until they slowly revert to their preferred conformation, which means hair straightened via flat ironing can be silky and straight for a few days at a time.

Unfortunately, the temperatures required to achieve this effect can cause permanent structural damage to hair, especially when coupled with the relatively high mechanical forces used to change the shape of the hair. Flat irons are the ultimate players in the heat styling field, with temperatures easily reaching 350°F and even approaching (or surpassing”> 400°F.

Structural defects

Hair exposed to the extreme conditions of flat irons has been observed via optical microscopy and scanning electron microscopy and both radial (outward from the shaft”> and axial (along the length of the strand”> cracking have been observed on hair strands, as well as fusion of cuticle scales.  These structural defects become weaknesses that can result in frizz, tangling, and ultimately breakage.  Loss of curl pattern is also a common effect of repeat exposure to this method of straightening.

Bubble hair

Perhaps even more disconcerting has been the presentation of what has been labeled “bubble hair” in the industry, where hair exposed to the high temperatures of flat iron straightening develops voids and bubbles along its length. Hair is naturally filled with miniscule voids that hold air, which can also absorb and retain water.

When the local temperature of this water exceeds its boiling point, which can happen very easily with exposure to high temperatures in heat styling and blow drying, it can vaporize quickly and boil out of the hair, expanding the voids to form large, vacant bubbles in the structure of the hair. These bubbles give the hair strand an irregular, knobby shape, which is not only unattractive, but also creates stress concentration sites and multiple sources subsequent of breakage.

For this reason, it is extremely important to never flat iron hair that is not absolutely dry. Any residual dampness from washing puts the hair at greater danger for extreme, irreversible damage from rapid boiling of the water molecules. Since hair is never 100% free of water (which would be an undesirable state anyway”>, this risk is never completely eliminated.

Minimizing Damage

Lower temperatures

Multiple variables determine the type and extent of damage done by high temperature exposure, including the condition of the hair, the temperature being applied, and the duration of the exposure.  Hair in excellent condition will be more resilient and less likely to incur damage.

Outcomes are also greatly improved when lower temperatures are used and exposure times are minimized. However, evidence has been found that temperatures as low as 125°C (254°F”> on a flat iron can induce formation of bubbles in the hair shaft.

The makers of Cool Way claim that the flat iron has a special sensor technology that enables it to automatically detect the moisture levels in the hair and to adjust the temperature for styling accordingly, with the additional promise that the temperature will never exceed 299°F.

This definitely is an advantage for this system over others that rely upon higher temperatures, but it is unclear whether it is sufficient to actually prevent damage to the hair. One of their claims, though, is that hair melts at 320°F, which is definitely untrue and should make the user cautiously skeptical regarding other claims made as well.

Thermal Protection Serums and Sprays

One popular method for reducing thermal damage incurred to hair when using heated styling tools is to apply specially formulated topical treatments designed to act as barriers against high temperatures.  Data has shown that these products can significantly reduce the damage done to hair by flat irons and curling iron and that they also improve water retention in the cortex of the hair.

Examination of the ingredient lists of these serums and sprays reveals that the most common active components of these products are silicones. Silicones provide a variety of benefits as thermal protection materials. Cyclopentasiloxane and cyclomethicone are used to aid in faster drying time, as they are volatile, small molecule silicones. They provide protection to the hair by driving off water more quickly and minimizing the likelihood of water boiling out of the hair shaft.

Higher molecular weight silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, dimethicone, and amine-functional silicones have very low thermal conductivity, which allows them to act as excellent insulators for hair against heat. They spread easily onto the surface of the hair and form films that encapsulate the hair and not only protect against heat very effectively, but also act to seal in moisture. By preventing water molecules from exiting the hair shaft, they effectively prevent formation of voids and bubble defects. While silicones are very good in this capacity, many people prefer to avoid them or use them only minimally.

Thermal protection serums do improve the outcome of using a flat iron, curling iron, or blow dryer set on high temperatures. However, they are usually extremely high in silicones or other non-water soluble polymers, and may cause problems with buildup or lead to limp tresses for some. They definitely could not be removed from the hair purely with a conditioner or mild shampoo.  So it is important to make certain that you cleanse your hair to remove these types of products once you are ready for your hair to revert to its natural state.

Summary

Although it is becoming popular to lower heat tools to change the shape of your hair, it is critical to remember that it really requires relatively low temperatures to cause irreversible damage to your hair structure.

The Coolway™ Low Heat styling system’s ability to adjust temperatures automatically based upon the condition of your hair is an interesting technology, but in comparison to other very high temperature flat ironing tools the improvement is only marginal.

The temperatures used in devices with adjustable heat settings are substantially lower than the 400° often seen in the most powerful flat irons, but they are still sufficiently high to cause structural damage to the hair.

There is an important relationship between the transmission of thermal energy and the size of the object receiving the energy. Hair strands are very small, as are the proteins, lipids, and water molecules which comprise them, and energy is transmitted very rapidly into those structures.

Remember that water boils at 212°F, and individual molecules can reach that temperature very quickly and easily, even with temperatures of only 200°F on the styling tool. Keratin proteins are denatured at even lower temperatures.

The longer a tool remains in contact with the hair, the more thermal energy it conveys to each hair strand which can lead to really catastrophic damage, such as bubbles, voids, distortions of the geometry of the hair, permanent disruption of the curl pattern, fusing of cuticle scales, and ultimately, breakage.  For this reason, gliding a flat iron quickly across the surface of the hair, in one swift, smooth movement is critical.  Damage is cumulative, so frequent use of high heat styling methods increases the chances of noticeable degradation of the health of the hair.

Thermal protection sprays and serums utilize silicones and other polymers, which have been found to provide some degree of protection when used in heat styling applications.  However, these products are prone to accumulation on the surface of the hair, which can cause dryness, frizz, and limp tresses.

It seems if one wanted to occasionally sport a straight hairdo, then using a lower heat flat iron is indeed a safer choice by which to achieve that end.  However, subjecting one’s hair to these conditions on a daily or even weekly basis will inevitably cause structural damage to the hair, which is just not reversible.  We take too much care with the condition of our hair to risk it too often in pursuit of those flat, glossy styles.

Embrace your curls!

MORE: Low Heat Styling Tips for Curly Hair

By Tonya McKay · Published January 7, 2013

A “sweet” new group of ingredients being used in the green formulating industry is the Sucragel line of products developed by Alfa Chemicals in the UK. Rather than being a single ingredient, these materials are provided as  mixtures of natural oils, glycerin, and esters of the sugar molecule, sucrose.

Sucragels can be easily incorporated into a variety of hair and skin products where they provide thickening to the product, emulsion stabilization, mild cleansing and for leave on products, impart hydration to the skin and hair through the attraction and binding of water molecules to the humectant sugar molecules.

Sucragel enjoys the prestigious European Ecocert label, which means it is internationally accepted as a viable option for natural formulations and can be used in products for companies whose policies regarding the quality and safety of their ingredients are rigorous.

Sucragel is PEG-free, biodegradable, preservative-free, entirely vegetable derived, is available in a 94% organic option, and is amenable to cold process technology, which uses less energy and is considered a more sustainable business practice for manufacture of products. These mixtures add benefit to formulations for both skin and hair, and are found in a variety of products so far, including several Burt’s Bees gentle shampoos.

MORE: Top 10 Ingredients of Natural Hair Products

What are Sucragels?

Sucrose laurate is then mixed with glycerin, water (aqua”>, and an oil phase consisting of either caprylic/capric triglycerides or sweet almond oil. The final solution is Sucragel, which can be readily mixed with a variety of nonpolar oils, including botanical oils, silicones, mineral oils, and esters, to produce a stable, clear, oily gel. Sucragels are a mixture designed to capitalize upon the nonionic surfactant properties of sugar esters.  These are obtained by an esterification reaction between sucrose and a fatty acid, typically the coconut fatty acid (lauric”> to produce sucrose laurate.

Where will I find them?

The resultant gels can be added to aqueous mixtures, where they emulsify spontaneously, which is useful for making lotions, face creams, cleansers, or lightweight conditioners. Additionally, the oily gels can be used to make excellent deep conditioning treatments or as light topical humectants if applied sparingly. The ease with which these materials can be used in formulations makes them suitable materials for home dabbling in cosmetics chemistry.

Sucragels also have application as co-surfactants in low-foaming, mild shampoos.  Burt’s Bees makes use of Sucragel in a variety of their natural shampoos for adults and children.  They are also found in A’kin shampoo, Organic Surge shampoo, The Body Shop rainforest shampoo, Madara shampoo, and The Organic Pharmacy, to name a few.  Due to their amphiphilic, nonionic structure, they provide very mild cleansing and are considered moisturizing.  They are used in products targeting safety and health as replacements for PEG-modified surfactants, which are coming under scrutiny for potential health complications.

Sucragel can also be used in lightweight leave-in conditioning products, especially if the primary conditioning agent is a silicone or botanical oil.  In these they impart hydration and moisturization both from the almond oil and the sugar ester.

Sucragel seems to be primarily suited for hydration and emulsification purposes, and is thus appropriate for use in shampoos, leave-in conditioners, and skin creams. It is not readily apparent from the product literature whether it is compatible with some of the typical styling polymers, such as acrylates or pyrrolidones.  It is sensitive to electrolytes in the solution, which indicates that the cationic conditioning and styling polymers would definitely not work well with these materials.  It would be interesting to see if they added anything beneficial to a flax seed gel or something similar.

What to look for on labels

Several different Sucragel mixtures are available for formulators, so they have multiple INCI designations for labels.

1. Sucragel CF: Glycerin & Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides & Aqua & Sucrose Laurate
2. Sucragel AOF: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond”> Oil & Glycerin & Aqua & Sucrose Laurate
3. Sucragel AOF BIO (94% Organic”>: Glycerin & Prunis Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond”> Oil & Sucrose Laurate & Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange”> Fruit Water

MORE: Decipher Hair Product Ingredients and Read Your Labels! 

Summary

Sucragels are a mixture of sugar esters and oils that enable formulators to create viscous, oily gels and stable emulsions for a variety of hair and skin care products.  They provide mild cleansing, emulsion stabilization, environmentally friendly manufacturing, and are biodegradable, to name some of their desirable traits.  Some research studies have shown that in certain mixtures, these materials form some very interesting structures (bicontinuous phases”> that may provide more sophisticated avenues for application in the future.  An additional perk is that they are also obtainable from a variety of sources so that it is possible to play with them at home to see how they work for you.

While these sugar ester based mixtures may not be tasty (but they are edible”>, they do seem to be a fantastic resource for the cosmetic market. The sugar esters themselves are water soluble, but the plant oils require a mild cleanser to be removed thoroughly from the hair surface.  Due to their highly hydrophilic structures, the humectant properties from both the sucrose ester and the glycerin may produce a tacky feel to the hair and even lead to frizz, especially in certain environmental conditions, so be aware of this if you choose to use leave-in products containing these.  Overall, the Sucragel mixture is very gentle material with much potential as formulators both at home and in labs strive to develop products that embrace the green philosophy.

By Tonya McKay · Published October 2, 2012

Mongongo oil has been valued for centuries in Africa and is now gaining popularity in the rest of the world as we become educated about its beneficial qualities. Not only is the fruit extremely nutritious, but the oil has many useful properties as an emollient for both hair and skin. What makes mongongo different from other botanical oils and how does this affect its properties?

Origin

Mongongo oil is obtained by cold-pressing the nuts that come from the Mongongo or Manketti tree (Schinziophyton rautanenii”>. The Manketti tree is found from coast to coast in Southern Africa. It thrives in the seasonal dry lands where it weathers a broad range of temperatures from sub-freezing to scorching desert heat. It is found both sporadically scattered and also in large groves throughout northern Namibia, southern Angola, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Malawi. The egg-shaped, reddish brown fruit is prized by both the people and the elephants indigenous to the region. The nuts are often gathered from elephant dung, a practice that is less labor intensive than harvesting the fruit and extracting the nut from the center.

Composition of Mongongo Oil

The nut is very high in fat (>57%”> and contains a plethora of other valuable nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, iron, copper, zinc and thiamine. Each seed contains approximately 560 mg of vitamin E (tocopherol”>. The antioxidant properties of this vitamin lend a high degree of thermal and oxidative stability to the oil, which greatly delays onset of rancidity of the oil, even in the intense South African heat. The oil has been greatly prized, not only for its nutritive benefits, but also as a skin and hair emollient and skin protectant.

The composition of the oil in mongongo fruit is fairly different from many other plant oils used as topical hair treatments or conditioning ingredients. It is comprised of between 40-50% polyunsaturated fatty acids, as compared to shea and coconut oil, which are comprised largely of saturated fatty acids and mango, olive, avocado, jojoba and almond oils, which are comprised mainly of monounsaturated oils.

Fatty Acid Content of Mongongo Oil:

• 45-55% polyunsaturated fatty acids: linoleic acid, alpha-eleostearic acid
• 17% saturated fatty acids: palmitic acid, stearic acid
• 18% monounsaturated fatty acid: oleic acid

Unsaturated molecules have at least one carbon-carbon double bond in their structure. Double bonds are connected at a different angle than single ones and this produces a kink in the molecular geometry. This type of structure inhibits crystallization by impeding packing of adjacent molecules. For this reason, oils with high concentrations of polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fatty acids are typically either liquids at room temperature or melt readily upon contact with skin.

Stearic acid, a saturated hydrocarbon molecule with 18 carbons (relatively long-chain fatty acid”> has a melting point of 69.6°C (157.28°F”>. Oleic acid is a monounsaturated hydrocarbon with a melting point of 10.5°C (50.9°F”>. Polyunsaturated acids, such as linoleic and linolenic, have multiple kinks in their chains and are liquid at very low temperatures (melt point = -5°C (23°F”> for linoleic acid”>.

MORE: 6 New Hair Oils for Your Curls

Properties of the different types of fatty acids

The protective outer cuticle layer of hair is not a solid surface, but is porous in order to allow transport of oils and water back and forth through the hair and into the cortex. The lipid-rich cell membrane complex layer just beneath the cuticle scales acts as a diffusion port, enabling fatty acids and moisture to travel into the interior of the hair strand.

Molecular size and shape determine the probability of a fatty acid to travel through the cuticle layer into the cortex of the hair. Saturated fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid diffuse easily through the pores of the cuticle layer and penetrate the cortex, where they provide flexibility and suppleness to hair strands. Spectroscopic studies demonstrate that despite their kinked structure due to the single double bond, monounsaturated fatty acids are also able to readily penetrate the interior of the hair via this route.

However, the more unwieldy structure of polyunsaturated fatty acids prohibits them from penetrating into the interior of the hair strand and they remain adsorbed onto the surface of the hair. Oils such as mongongo oil that are high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, form a protective and emollient film on the surface of the hair, where they act as a barrier preventing moisture from escaping the interior of the hair. These fatty acids can add gloss to hair and improve comb-ability by smoothing the surface of the hair. Due to the presence of the acid groups in their structure, these ingredients can also have a mild humectant effect.

The linoleic acid in mongongo oil is known for being emollient to the hair, and stearic acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid are good at penetrating to the cortex to supply elasticity and improved mechanical properties. Perhaps the most interesting properties of mongongo oil can be attributed to the presence of α-eleostearic acid, a conjugated trienoic fatty acid. This molecule has three double bonds in the middle of its structure that are conjugated, meaning they alternate (double bond-single bond-double bond-single bond…”>. These types of structures have unique chemical properties due to this conjugation, as they can delocalize certain of their electrons in response to various stimuli in a process known as resonance stabilization.

There are three reasons that this very specific feature of the organic structure of α-eleostearic acid is interesting to us in hair care applications. The first is that the conjugated diene structure enables this fatty acid to act as a mild sun protective agent via UV-absorption and subsequent resonance stabilization. The second reason is that the molecule is capable of undergoing a UV-initiated photopolymerization reaction, whereby the fatty acids molecules link together into a three-dimensional crosslinked network, forming a flexible film on the surface of the hair. This provides physical protection to the hair and also may impart style hold or curl retention. Thirdly, this polymerization mechanism (called curing”> substantially reduces drying time for hair. Even once polymerized, the carboxylic acid groups on the molecule should be sufficient enough “hydrophilic handles” to permit removability in water, especially if conditioner and/or mild shampoo are used.

Since it is fun to experiment with our hair, it seems worthwhile to at least sample some of these new products containing this ingredient. Look for products that contain other quality ingredients and that feature mongongo oil sufficiently high up the ingredient list. Beware products that are comprised primarily of other oils and only include this as a trace ingredient as they may prove to not be a sound investment. Let us know your thoughts when you do try some of the new mongongo oil products.

MORE: Orchid Oil: A Breakthrough Hair Care Ingredient

By Tonya McKay · Published August 16, 2012

Silicones have many unique properties that make them a preferred ingredient for hair care product formulators. They form a film on the surface of hair strands which allows them to effectively act as a lubricant between adjacent hair strands and reduce the forces required for detangling hair. Due to their high refractive index, they also impart a high degree of gloss and shine to hair when used in conditioners and styling products. Silicones also provide protection from the thermal damage often sustained during hair drying and heat styling. Certain silicones, especially amine-functionalized ones, have also been shown to increase color retention of artificially dyed hair.

However, despite their numerous benefits, curlies are frequently admonished to minimize use of silicones or to avoid them entirely.

So what’s the problem?

Sadly, there can be too much of a good thing. Years ago, it was fashionable for stylists to douse curly hair in heavy silicone oils in order to get control of frizz and to add a much-coveted shine to curls. Unfortunately, these products had a tendency to backfire over time. With repeated use, the serums accumulated on the surface of the hair, keeping water from entering the cortex and causing it to become dehydrated, weighing down hair, and completely disrupting natural curl pattern. The buildup could be very difficult to remove, requiring repeat applications of harsh shampoos. The result was dry, frizzy hair that resisted attempts to restore its natural beauty.

Similar results can occur when conditioners with high amounts of non-water soluble dimethicone are used. Buildup issues are especially problematic when non-traditional methods of cleansing are employed, such as conditioner cleansing, baking soda scrubs, or vinegar rinses. For this reason, it has become a popular recommendation for curly-haired people to avoid products containing silicones. This has the unfortunate consequence of depriving many curlies of some of the beneficial properties of silicones in hair care products.

Is There a Solution?

Happily, polymer chemists have spent time developing and optimizing water soluble silicone-based polymers for various reasons. These materials impart many of the desirable properties of ordinary silicone polymers, but they are more easily removed from the hair via rinsing, conditioner washing, or cleaning with mild shampoos, and do not require the use of harsh sulfate-based surfactants. They can also enhance moisturizing properties or add humectant qualities. These silicones provide more options to curly ladies and gentlemen.

Read More: Coily Manifesto: Silicone Hair Products Work For Me

What makes a silicone-based polymer water soluble?

Simple silicone polymers, such as dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane”> are comprised of a linear inorganic backbone of silicone and oxygen, with organic (carbon-based”> pendant groups. These materials are extremely hydrophobic oils. However, several different types of chemical reactions can be utilized to add hydrophilic character to the polymers. These new polymers are amphiphilic, containing both hydrophobic and hydrophilic portions, and are classified as silicone surfactants.

Perhaps the most straightforward and popular method for rendering a silicone molecule water soluble is by adding multiple units of ethylene glycol (-OCH2CH2O-“> to sites along the polymer chain. The oxygen atoms in these segments add polarity to the silicone and are readily available for association with water molecules. This process is called ethoxylation or polyethylene glycol (PEG”>-modification.

PEG-modification can be done on sites that dangle from the silicone backbone, which results in a polymer shaped like a comb with hydrophilic tendrils. PEG can also be added to the terminal ends of the silicone polymer, making a straight chain surfactant type copolymer, with a hydrophilic block-hydrophobic block-hydrophilic block structure. Star-like molecules can be created by PEG-substitution occurring both at the ends of the polymer and on the pendant groups. Each type of polymer has slightly different properties.

On product labels, these polymers were formerly denoted by the name dimethicone copolyol. The preferred nomenclature for the comb-shaped polymers now is PEG-X dimethicone, with X being the number of repeat units of ethylene glycol. The block copolymers are designated Bis-PEG-X dimethicone, and the star-shaped polymers are designated Bis-PEG-X/PEG-X dimethicone. The higher the number “x” is, the greater the water solubility. Below a threshold of approximately PEG-6, the polymer is only sparingly soluble, and when the degree of ethoxylation equals or exceeds 8, the material can be considered to be highly water soluble.

Similar modification of a different silicone results in the novel polymer Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, which is completely water soluble and highly moisturizing to skin and hair. Another interesting water soluble silicone polymer is one modified with side chain copolymers of poly glucosides (sugars”>, PEG-8-PG-coco glucoside dimethicone. This material is completely water soluble, has high substantivity to hair and skin, is very moisturizing, and also has sufficient surfactant qualities that it can be used as a foaming agent and mild cleanser in gentle shampoos. Silicone phosphate esters (INCI name: Dimethicone PEG-X phosphate”> are another category of water soluble silicone surfactants that provide excellent moisturizing properties and act as foam boosters.

Read More: What’s the Scoop on Silicones?

What should I look for on labels?

Ultimately, it is most important to be your own scientist and try various products on your own hair in order to determine what gives the results that you like the most. What works for one person may not work for another, for many reasons.

Read More: CurlChemist: What Makes a Cleansing Ingredient More Harsh or More Gentle?

If you are interested in trying some of the benefits of silicone-based products, but find it important to stick to those that are most easily removed via no-shampoo and mild-shampoo techniques, you will need to know what to look for on labels. The following silicones should be compatible with that type of hair care routine, and should provide many of the desirable effects of silicones, such as the addition of shine, moisturizing effects, thermal protection, and color retention, without any accompanying worries about buildup and frizz..

• PEG-8 (or higher”> Dimethicone
• Bis-PEG-8 (or higher”> Dimethicone
• Bis-PEG-8/PEG-8 Dimethicone
• Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane
• PEG-8-PG-coco glucoside dimethicone
• Dimethicone PEG-X phosphate
• Dimethcione copolyol (this is an older and less descriptive designation, but may still be found on some labels”>

By Tonya McKay · Published July 16, 2012

In recent months, we have taken an in-depth look at the structure and properties of cationic and nonionic surfactants. Another interesting category of surfactants used in both hair and skin care are the zwitterionic ones, those that naturally have two charges on the molecule, both positive and negative. These are attractive to the formulator due to their tendency to boost effects of other surfactants in the solution, as well as an ability to ameliorate undesirable properties of some surfactants, such as skin irritation and a tendency to strip the hair and skin of too much moisture. One familiar surfactant of this type is cocamidopropyl betaine, which is appreciated by many curly-haired consumers for its gentle, yet effective, cleansing capabilities.

What are they?

Zwitterionic surfactants (also: amphoteric surfactants”> are characterized by having two distinct and opposite charges on the molecule at either adjacent or non-adjacent sites. The presence of both a positive and negative charge renders the molecule overall neutrally-charged at neutral pH. Some types of zwitterions are susceptible to pH changes in a solution and may become completely cationic or anionic in acidic or basic environments. The positively-charged site is typically a quaternized ammonium ion, but can also be a phosphonium ion, while the negatively-charged site can be one of a variety of anionic groups, such as sulfate, carboxylate, or sulfonate. There are several common categories of zwitterions used in hair care formulations, such as the betaines and amphoacetates.

In general, amphoteric surfactants have been found to be compatible with other surfactants and polymers, including silicones. The formation of self-assembling complexes between amphoteric surfactants and polymers or anionic surfactants has been observed and found to impart interesting properties to solutions containing these molecules. Amphoteric surfactants reduce static in hair by decreasing its surface charge density. Since the interactions between hair and zwitterionic surfactants are primarily physical rather than ionic, they are easily rinsed and removed from the surface of the hair. They have been found to minimize skin and eye irritation common to other surfactants, especially sulfates. They also can boost the foaming performance of anionic surfactant systems via a variety of mechanisms, by either increasing the speed at which foam is formed (flashing”>, improving the density and luxurious feel of the foam, or by increasing the foam stability (longevity”>.

Types of amphoteric surfactants

The betaine family of zwitterions possesses the positive-negative head group structure of trimethyl glycine (betaine”>, an amino acid derived from sugar beets. The hydrophobic tail group can be a straight chain alkyl group (such as in coco betaine”>, or can contain an amido group, such as cocamidopropyl betaine. Other betaines include lauramidopropyl betaine, oleamidopropyl betaine, ricinoleamidopropyl betaine, cetyl betaine and dimer dilinoleamidopropyl betaine. Additional variants are sulfobetaines, hydroxysulfobetaines and sultaines. Betaines are more resistant to thickening via addition of salts than their anionic cousins. For this reason, in order to achieve a pleasingly thick product, addition of viscosity-boosting polymeric additives may be necessary, which can increase the cost and complexity of the formula.

Cocamidopropyl betaine is particularly valued for being an excellent cosurfactant for sodium lauryl sulfate, but it is also a gentle cleanser in its own right. Studies have found that it removes silicones from hair very effectively, without drying out the hair. It has also been shown to improve the solubility of sodium cocoyl isethionate, an extremely gentle, creamy and emollient surfactant. The combination of these two has the potential to create an extremely gentle and moisturizing shampoo.

Betaines are more resistant to thickening via addition of salts than their anionic cousins. For this reason, in order to achieve a pleasingly thick product, addition of viscosity-boosting polymeric additives may be necessary, which can increase the cost and complexity of the formula.

The specific betaine selected can have a significant impact upon the viscosity, foaming behavior and detergency of the final product. In order to choose the best betaine for her purpose, the formulator must be familiar with the properties of each of her options and how each interacts with the other ingredients in her formula. She will generally have a goal in mind regarding the physical properties, cleansing strength and cost of her formula and all of those will factor into the decision. Fortunately, for consumers, the primary concern is how the product feels on the hair and how the hair behaves afterward and the differences should not be tremendous between the various betaines. Currently, cocamidopropyl betaine is the one most often seen on labels and in the proper formulation, and is quite gentle to hair and skin.

Other families of zwitterions are also used in formulations. They are becoming more common as their interesting properties are explored and as companies continue working to develop non-sulfate-based cleansing platforms. Some familiar ones might be the imidazoline derivatives alkylamphoacetates such as disodium lauramphoacetate, as well as alkylamphopropionates. These materials share many of the beneficial and gentle properties of the betaine family.

Overall, zwitterions are an interesting class of surfactants with the potential for more growth in application, especially for curly hair, which needs a more gentle approach to cleansing.

Consumer power

In recent years, there has been a growing demand for sulfate-free and gentler shampoos and cleansing products, especially in the curly-haired population, as we have learned the damage that can be done by harsh surfactants. As formulators continue to respond to the push from consumers for alternatives to sulfate-based cleansing systems, we can expect to see a growing number of products relying upon the milder cleansing properties of zwitterionic surfactants. They are less likely to strip curly hair of its much-needed moisture and can impart a silky feel to hair when used with other ingredients. A patent search reveals that scientists are working to develop more polymer-zwitterion systems, which should also eventually benefit the end product user by providing performance-enhancing properties. In this demand-driven market, the power consumers have to drive the research and development of new products is quite remarkable and should not be underestimated.

Communities such as naturallycurly.com have a voice! So what do you think?