Search Results: Tabitha Tongoi

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published January 27, 2016

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

Deep condition twice a week

This doesn’t have to be a complicated process. I simply hop into the shower and drench my hair in water. I then apply my deep conditioner to the length of my strands and throw on my plastic cap. I deep condition for about an hour and then rinse off the product with some diluted apple cider vinegar, which helps close the cuticle. Afterwards, I seal my hair with olive oil in the summer but in the winter I reach for heavier butters and creams such as shea butter.

The Green House Method

The green house method is a common practice within the natural hair community and basically references the process of coating only the ends of your hair with deep conditioner and then covering them with a plastic cap overnight. This is particularly crucial for the ends of our hair, as these are the oldest and most prone to damage. When you wake up in the morning all you have to do is rinse of the deep conditioner, dab off excess water, and apply a light coat of olive oil to seal in the moisture.

Drink lots of water

This has to be the oldest trick in the book. Surprisingly (or not surprisingly”>, our internal water levels affect the health of our scalp and consequently the state of our hair. If you’re suffering from a dry scalp due to extreme weather changes, you’re most likely dehydrated. Fill up on your water and you should notice a significant improvement.

Protect your hair outdoors

If you’re in the sun, wear protective clothing such as a hat, turban or bandana occasionally. Believe it or not if you’re outside for many hours during the day, the sun’s UV rays can cause our strands to get discolored and excessively dry. Prior to stepping out, dab some avocado oil or macadamia oil on your exposed strands.

Line your hats

Line your beanies and headscarves with satin. There are satin-lined beanies available on Etsy, but for the most part, all you need is some needle, thread, and satin cloth and this becomes a lazy-Saturday-DIY project. Satin is fantastic for extreme weather, because unlike cotton it doesn’t absorb moisture from our strands.

How do you tweak your regimen for extreme weather changes? 

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published January 14, 2016

Choose a topic that you love

What are you passionate about and what are you good at? Each one of us is really good at a skill that someone out there is looking to learn. You might be an expert stylist or braider, or maybe you make great hair products. Trust me, someone would love to learn from you. I choose healthy and length retention as the focus of my blog, as I’d been natural for four years and grown my hair to waist length. I had picked up a few useful tips I knew others were looking to learn. In my first year of blogging I not only sharpened my natural hair skills and knowledge, but also inspired and informed my naturalistas who are eager to maintain long, healthy natural hair.

Be authentic 

Just be yourself. Your voice and story are unique. I’ve seen lots of newbie bloggers lose their creative direction, because they are trying to fit into a mold. There might be a style to blogging that’s been set in place by more experienced content creators, but that doesn’t mean you can’t change things up! Blogging is a free and expansive space so set your own standards and themes, and you should stick to them regardless of what might be more mainstream. For me, this means writing from my heart based on what I think is interesting and not just what’s trending.

Put in the hard work

I didn’t realise how much behind-the-scenes work goes into blogging until I started my own! Phew! Blogging is a fun but very time-consuming hobby. Depending on the frequency of your articles, you’ll find that you need to carve out a significant chunk of your day for content production, editing, publishing, pushing, and responding. You might have to cut down your hours of sleep or maybe narrow down your interests. Either way, just like everything else in life, I’ve learned to put in the hard work to see results.

Get your tech right

Blogging is all about creating great content for your readers. You’ll need a sturdy camera, access to a computer, internet, and some editing and publishing skills to be an expert blogger. Most of my skills in photography, I’ve picked along the way by trial and error and by watching YouTube tutorials. I’m still perfecting my skills in the Adobe Creative suite using Lynda.com. I’ve also had to learn some basic code to improve the layout and presentation of my website. There’s lots of information online on photography and website hosting that’s free and/or easily accessible, so take some time to do your research.

Have fun and connect with your readers

I’m not looking to put on an impressive show or become famous fast but rather to share the fullness of life with my readers. While I create content, I also love connecting with my readers in the comments sections of my web platforms. I’ve learned that this is probably one of the most important aspects about growing a faithful readership and building trust. Rather than focusing on growing artificial numbers on each of my platforms, I’ve focused on building relationships with my readers. I’ve found that my growth has come naturally.

I hope you’ve found these tips informative! If you’re a newbie blogger, welcome to the blogging community! I hope that your first year of blogging is just as fruitful as mine has been. If you’re simply interested in knowing what it takes to be a seasoned blogger, this is a sneak peak. Either way, here’s to many more delightful blogs and articles!

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published January 13, 2016

Before I went natural, I combed my hair every single day without fail. I’d use very fine-toothed combs to lay my hair down – that is, the few strands that I still had left after chemical and mechanical damage. Looking back now, four years after my last relaxer, I can confidently say that combing my hair was one of my most detrimental hair practices.

Combs caused severe mechanical damage to my strands. They literally shred my individual strands to pieces

Here’s what I’ve learned from my experiences: combs caused severe mechanical damage to my strands. They literally shred my individual strands to pieces, leaving them frail and tattered. For me, weak strands resulted in lots of breakage, which in turn resulted in minimal length retention. Here are a few alternatives I’ve found to combs:

Opt for finger-detangling rather than brushing

Our fingers are our greatest friends when it comes to natural hair care. Finger detangling simply refers to the practice of frequently using your fingers to separate your strands and prevent them from knotting. It may take longer than brushing, but trust me, your strands will thank you.

If you must use combs, use seamless wide toothed combs

Seamless combs are those whose teeth do not have a fine line of demarcation where the pieces of plastic meet. These lines of demarcation can be razor-sharp and cause damage to our strands. Seamless combs tend to be higher in quality and therefore more expensive, but at the end of the day, they do save your strands.

• Hercules Sagemann Magic Star Hair Comb
• Breezelike No Static Wavy Handle Green Sandalwood Wide Tooth Comb

If not seamless combs, try wide-toothed combs

Wide-toothed combs are those that literally look like rakes. You want to have your combs teeth as far apart as possible – literally half of an inch or so! If used correctly, wide-toothed combs lightly detangle our hair without causing too much mechanical damage.

One of my greatest secrets to my long, coily hair is that I hardly ever comb my hair. This doesn’t mean that my hair is unkempt but rather that I gently use my fingers to style my hair in low manipulation styles. I’ve found this tactic helpful in retaining length.  

• Cricket Ultra Smooth Hair Detangler Comb infused with Argan Oil

Have you tried to go without a comb? If not, what styling tools do you use? 

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published January 11, 2016

I was very aware that our narrative as African/African American/Black women in the media was one sided. We’re portrayed as aggressive, hypersexualized, poor, and submissive. We’re singers and entertainers. Our bodies, our skin tone, our sexuality speaks volumes even before we say a word. And so, Craving Yellow is the pursuit of wholesome womanhood.

Why “Craving Yellow?”

Why hair care?

Well because I can testify that for many African/African American/Black women in the diaspora, hair care is a big challenge. I had to figure out my kinks and coils for the first time, away from the comfort of my home country. My life’s journey saw me leave Kenya at 17 to do my A-Levels in South Africa, after which I moved to the US and then to the UK to do my studies and back to the US. And now I’m perched in Australia with the love of my life, but that’s a story for another day!

Natural hair care, this very simple yet important aspect of discovering my femininity, led me to introspection. Natural hair care has been a process of understanding myself, and more so in a global environment where my physical features stand out. My natural hair, all 18 inches of kinks and coils, represents the way in which I’ve grown in self-love and in so doing, been able to navigate, explore, challenge what it means to be black and female and African and educated in the West.

On Craving Yellow I write about hair care, my lifestyle in Australia, and my budding love for self-portraiture. You’ll find all my hair tips and tricks on how I grew out my type 4, coily hair to waist-length in four years. I share my hair regimen, product reviews, styling ideas, and hair hacks as I’ve come to discover them over the past four years. There aren’t too many hair bloggers with my texture, so I’ve found it fulfilling to offer readers with a similar curl pattern some useful tips on how to retain more length as their hair grows.

On Craving Yellow, you’ll also find snippets of my adventures and misadventures in Australia. Australia is the fifth country I’ve lived in, so I share what I’m learning, what I’m exploring and what I’m loving about my new home. I also share beauty and lifestyle hacks that I’ve picked along the way.

And lastly, you’ll find my musings on self-portraiture on Craving Yellow. Self-portraiture is a “soul-versation”, to use a term of India.Arie’s, about being an African woman, who born and bred on the continent, has temporarily or permanently moved abroad to pursue her studies at an elite institution. She is a cultured, exposed, sophisticated, enlightened and empowered Afropolitan yet she must prove her self-worth in this differently-demanding environment. I ask how her body is constructed in memory and art history in a race- and gender-charged global environment and how it is to be deconstructed and reassembled? I then argue that photography and self-representation can be redemptive of this blurred and bleak image of African womanhood.

And so I write for me and for us. It’s been a year so far. One complete cycle round the sun of actively creating Craving Yellow. It’s been a wonderful journey of exploration and I’m inspired to keep writing and to keep sharing my life with you, raw and unedited, so that even if in the slightest, your days might be brighter, your existence might be affirmed.

Follow Craving Yellow here:

Craving Yellow, Instagram, and YouTube 

By Tabitha Tongoi · Updated December 18, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

However, if you are new to natural hair care, sifting through all the information online sure can seem daunting. You’ll have to have lots of time on your hands to get a grasp of all the information that is out there. With differing opinions on matters as basic as how to detangle your hair, you might find yourself overwhelmed and confused.

This is precisely why I put together my Back To Basics With Craving Yellow YouTube series. In this information-packed series, I share my top tips on how to kick-start your journey to long, healthy, natural hair. Each 1-3 min. video is tailored to give you clear and straightforward responses to these ten foundational natural hair questions.

Why natural hair?

The most foundational question of all. I share what my own journey has meant to me as well as all the amazing healthy hair results I’ve experienced as a natural.

Should I transition or big chop?  

You can either big chop or to transition. I get into the pros and cons of each and share my own experience. I thought I’d last two years with both textures, but after eight months I wanted my curls so bad, I grabbed a pair of hair shears and snipped my relaxed ends off.

How to build a natural hair regimen

I truly believe that the most foundational practice of natural hair care is a healthy hair regimen. There’s no way out of this one, if you’re after a full healthy and luscious mane, you must commit to this practice. The rest of the series offers step-by-step guide on how to build your regimen.

Pre-pooing, shampoo, and co-washing

Cleansing our hair is absolutely critical to the overall health of our hair. However, cleansing products can be some of the most detrimental to our hair’s luster. I explain this paradox and offer some useful techniques on how to effectively cleanse your strands.

How to effectively deep condition

I offer some simple pointers on how to use deep conditioning to maximise moisture retention in your strands. I also suggest some simple and effective methods to strengthen your strands using hydrolyzed protein.

Post wash hair care: rinsing, drying and sealing

I share some tips on how to seal your cuticles using coffee and tea. Turns out these hot beverages are effective on our hair. I also talk about the much loved LOC method and why you should use it to seal in your hair’s moisture.

Heat and natural hair

In this section, I argue that there’s hardly a reason why you should use heat on your natural hair. If you want to stretch your hair, braid it in three strand braids, and then take them out. Direct heat is the enemy of length retention. Avoid heat like the plague.

Choosing the right products for your hair type

Here, I demystify the myths that some products can grow or soften your hair. I argue instead that in order to know whether or not a specific product will work on our hair, we need to read the ingredient lists.

Protective styles for length and health retention  

I suggest that you keep your hair in a long term (4-6 week”>, low manipulation styles such as two-strand twists. I also explain why I stopped wearing braids with extensions, and the difference this has made for my length retention.

The difference between shedding and breakage

In this section, I differentiate between shedding and breakage, then offer some easy steps that you can take to minimise breakage. Remember, the less your hair is breaking, the more length retention you’ll see.

What questions do you have as a new natural? What do you find most difficult about navigating all the information online? 

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published December 9, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

I Don’t Comb My Hair 

I rarely put a comb through my hair! And no, that’s not because my hair is locked. I’ve found that my hair breaks most when manipulated with brushes and combs. My strands can’t stand all the raking. My strands naturally grow together in tufts of 6-8 individual hairs, almost like mini locks. I’ve figured that this is probably nature’s way of telling me that my hair need not be combed or heavily detangled.

Rather than comb my hair, I use my fingers for detangling. I’ve found that my fingers are better able to tease out any knots and tangles. First, I section and braid my hair into eight twists. Then, I take each section at a time and gently work my way along the length of my hair, unraveling tangles as I go. As opposed to combs, which tend to have jagged seams, my fingers don’t snag and pull at my strands. 

While this process of finger detangling might be more tedious and time-consuming than combing, I’ve found that it has largely contributed to the length and health of my hair.

I Don’t Wear Braids With Heavy Extensions

Braiding is a distinctive aspect of black hair care and rightly so. They are a versatile, affordable, and easily installed. I wore braids for many years as a teenager. In fact, braids were my go-to style and I rocked them in every colour, length, and texture under the sun!

However, as I learned more about hair care from the natural hair community, I realised that one of the factors that had contributed to my damaged hair was serial braiding with extensions. I’d use six to eight packets of braiding extensions and my installations were always very small and tight. It’s no surprise that my edges were patchy and the rest of my hair parched and uneven. Braiding with extensions not only dried out my hair, it also weighed down my poor strands!

The minute I stopped braiding, I saw a vast improvement in the health and length of my hair. My fine, type 4 strands simply could not withstand all the manipulation of the braiding process and they sure were happy when I gave them a break. Wearing my hair in braids without extensions has allowed me to better nurture my strands. I can cleanse and moisturise my hair regularly and monitor the general health of my scalp.

Read more: Ask Dr. Kari: Effective Protective Styling

I Don’t Wash & Go

At my current length – about 18 inches – a wash and go is an absolute no-no! My hair is very curly so it shrinks to about 1/4 of its true length. As if that’s not enough, it doesn’t neatly shrink into a sweet TWA. Somehow my strands manage to tangle as much as they possibly can on their way down towards my scalp. Need I say, detangling thereafter, is a nightmare! A wash & go leaves my hair in a royal mess and I have yet to figure out a way to leave the shower with a dripping afro and not cry later.

Rather, if I must wash my hair and be out the door, I’ll braid it in 4- 6 twists when I’m in the shower. I’ll then let it dry in these twists as I go through my day. Keeping my hair stretched while it dries, greatly prevents matting and knotting. If I’d like to style my hair differently after its dry, all I have to do is gently detangle my sectioned and stretched hair and I’m good to go.

I Don’t Use Direct Heat Regularly

When I was younger I’d look at women with long curly hair and wonder why they didn’t straighten it more often in order to show their full length. However, with time I’ve come to realise that the precise reason why they had long hair in the first place was because they didn’t use much heat! When I applied the same principle to my natural hair care, I found that I retained a lot of length.

When I do use direct heat, I use it sparingly. I make sure to deep condition my hair at least 24-48 hours prior. I also apply a silicone-based heat protectant and use only one pass per section. I only use heat once a year during my natural hair anniversary during where I thoroughly enjoy my true length and take lots of pictures.

Read more: Heat Protectant: This Buildup Actually Saves Your Hair

During the rest of the year, I nurture my coils and kinks by avoiding heat. Rather than stretch my hair using direct heat, I’ve found some heatless techniques just as gratifying. I might simply stretch my hair using braids and then unravel them for a twist out. I’ve also used the banding method. These simple heatless techniques yield a lot of hang time!

What don’t you do to your hair and why? Leave us a note down below, we’d love to know!

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published November 18, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

With hundreds of hair companies now in the market, choosing the right products to match your hair’s needs can be like looking for that one last hair tie you thought you had – desperate and tedious! Many of us simply go off on a limb and hope for the best. We might opt for products that are promoted by our favorite hair bloggers or opt for do-it-yourself recipes till we find suitable store-bought products. If either of those are you, here’s a few tips that have helped me identify the right products for my hair: 

Start with your hair’s needs

Hair products are intended to match your hair’s needs. Before you cash in on your products, take some time to assess the state of your hair. Does it feel dry or stiff? Do you have split ends? Do you have bald spots and sensitive patches? If your hair is feeling dry and your scalp is flaking, you may opt for moisturizing products. If your hair breaks easily or is easily bent out of shape after wash day, you might need protein-packed products. Remember, hair products are formulated differently to match the needs of our hair.

Don’t believe the hype

The natural hair community is full of reviews on hair products. Once in a while there are rave reviews of a product that claims to work wonders on our hair. I remember one such a couple of years ago that had 6000mg of biotin, placenta, and beetroot juice. This product was meant to melt away tangles and maximize moisture, but after the hype died down, some other concoction was in vogue. Lesson learned: don’t believe the hype all the time!

Find out what’s in the jar

Your products’ formulations are the foundational factors that will determine their effectiveness. You want to ensure that your product’s first ingredient is water/aqua. Other ingredients such as aloe vera juice or deionized water are great as well, and they may be listed first. For protein-packed products, you’ll see ingredients such as hydrolyzed wheat, oat, keratin, and silk protein. For moisturizing products, you’ll see ingredients such as glycerin, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol, sodium lactate, sodium PCA, acetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol. 

However, if you see ingredients that are largely illegible or that contain a whole bunch of numbers like Red17 or Methoxoziedalialsiealliied (okay, I just made that up”>, you can rest assured that your product of choice will probably do you little good.

Try out samples and do your research

If you can try out a product before you purchase it, please do so. If you can’t access a product, Google it. There might be a review online on it. It’s great to hear what others think of a product before you spend your hard earned cash on it. If you can’t find a review, by all means Google the ingredients. Find out what each one actually does for your hair, so that you know what to expect.

Make it work for you 

The natural hair community is full of information. There’s many different ways to style and treat your hair. One person’s Holy Grail recipe might not work for you. This means that you need to try things out for yourself. There isn’t a single formula to natural hair. If you want to add extra ingredients such as honey and aloe vera juice to your hair mix, by all means do so. Having natural hair is about learning what works for you. You may gather lots of information online, like you’re doing now, but in order to have your best head of hair, you must be your own hair specialist.

What steps do you take to ensure you are choosing the right products for your hair?

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published November 10, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

What is the difference between shedding and breakage?

Shedding is a natural part of our hair’s growth process. Shedding refers to the process by which hair that has reached the end of its growing cycle naturally falls from the scalp along with the root bulb attached. Breakage, contrastingly, is when our hair breaks along the hair shaft. It can be caused by dryness, weathering from exposure to the weather elements, and over manipulation during styling and maintenance. Factors that increase your shedding rate include styling methods that place stress on your hair follicles, hormone changes, illnesses, and genetics. If you’re in doubt, always consult your doctor.

How can I prevent breakage during protective styling, particularly after wearing braids?

Firstly, ensure that your protective style is well installed. Braids that are too tight will cause breakage. Secondly, remember to maintain your regimen by keeping your roots moisturized regularly. Lastly, wear your protective styles for a reasonable amount of time. Leaving a protective style installed for more than 6-8 weeks, especially without a touch-up, can cause breakage, which is counterproductive.

Read more: Caring for Your Hair Before, During, and After Protective Styling

Can re-twisting your hair every night lead to breakage?

This is a tricky one. Re-twisting your hair every night does help reduce tangling and keeps your hair stretched. At the very same time, it might mean that you are constantly manipulating your hair, which might weaken your strands and lead to breakage. I’d suggest wearing long-term protective styles such as two-strand twists that do not require too much daily styling. Keep up with your moisturizing regimen in order to strengthen your strands and prevent damage.

Do you trim your own hair? If so, how often? And do you do so on wet or dry hair?

I have my hair professionally trimmed once a year when I have my hair anniversary. This is done on flat-ironed hair. Throughout the year I trim dead ends as they arise, and I do this on dry hair.

Do you use black tea/coffee rinses? What about baking soda rinses?

I have used black tea/coffee rinses with much success. They are speculated to help prevent shedding after wash day. I’ve used baking soda once – it made my hair rock hard, so that was also the last time I used it. For deep cleansing, I’d just rather use a cleansing shampoo once every six or so weeks.

Read more: Caffeine for Hair Growth: Is It Better in Coffee or Shampoo?

How do you deal with “hard hair”? Is there a way to soften “hard hair”?

Well natural hair definitely feels “hard” when compared to relaxed hair. What you are adjusting to is a texture change. There is no product, technique, or style that can alter this “hardness”. Our curl pattern is naturally prone to tangles. Learning how to handle our hair’s texture is all part of the fun. I’ve found that keeping my hair stretched by wearing it in two-strand twists, braids, or plaits is really helpful. Over time I have gained experience with styling. The same will be true for you!

Read more: What Having “Hard Hair” Really Means

Do you wrap your hair up at night?

I wear a satin scarf every single night without fail. If my hair is in two-strand twists, which it normally is, I’ll simply pin the ends away and then throw on my satin scarf.

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published November 4, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

As such, some entrepreneurs are importing products from the United States while others are manufacturing products in Kenya. Online stores have sprung up to meet the demand for local and US-produced products. Here’s where to shop for curly hair products in Kenya.

Social media market platforms

Online Stores Selling Handmade Hair Products

Mainstream Supermarkets and Beauty Supply Stores

While mainstream beauty supply stores aren’t stoking a vast range of natural hair products just yet, some stock high quality supplementary hair products and styling tools. Supermarkets Uchumi and Nakumatt stock aloe vera juice, rose water, apple cider vinegar, baking soda, glycerin, satin bonnets, and spray bottles. Some international brands such as Tresemme Naturals, Giovanni, Herbal Essences, and Garnier Fructis are also in select Nakumatt and Uchumi outlets.

Beauty supply stores such as Our Price Kenya, Jumia Kenya, and Ashleys, all of which have been dominating the hair products scene in Kenya for decades, have yet to fully catch up to the demands of the natural hair community in Kenya. There’s still tremendous room for growth in the natural hair products market in Kenya.

Are you a natural in Kenya? Where do you purchase your hair products? Spill the beans girl! Let’s help each other out here! 

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published October 26, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

Tresemme Naturals Moisturizing Conditioner

The Tresemme Naturals Moisturizing Conditioner is silicone-free and is infused with aloe vera juice and avocado oil. It does have some useful alcohols such as cetyl alcohol as its third listed ingredient to help prevent dryness. This product would work great for type 4 naturalistas with fine hair.

The first time I used this product, it left a thin film on my hair that would not wash off. Because of this, I kept off it for a long time. However, I kept seeing rave reviews in various hair forums and decided to give it another try, and I’m sure glad I did. This conditioner has made its way up to my list of Holy Grail products because it is accessible, affordable, and has tons of slip.

I use this conditioner for my co-washes. I simply apply a coin-sized amount to the length of my hair, let it sit for about 3-5 min., and then rinse it off with a cup of ACV followed with cool water as a final rinse. I find that this conditioner leaves my hair intensely moisturized and manageable.  

Read more: Good Alcohols vs. Bad Alcohols

Hair Chemist Macadamia Oil Deep Repair Masque 

I came across this product in a small beauty supply store in Delaware. I had not heard of it before or seen any reviews of it online, but I decided to purchase it and give it a try. I have not looked back since! I apply a palm-full of this deep conditioner to my hair from root to ends after my weekly cleansing routine and then I let it sit on my hair for about 30 min. I have also received great results when using a hair steamer. 

This lightweight deep conditioner has a lot of slip, which make it great for detangling. While it does claim to be a reconstructor for damaged hair, I have found it mild enough to use on a weekly basis without causing protein overload. It seems to be the perfect blend between a strengthening and a moisturizing deep conditioning treatment.

In terms of ingredients, this conditioner has a mixture of jojoba, olive, sweet almond, and macadamia oils. It also has hydrolyzed wheat, corn, and soy protein to strengthen the hair shaft. The cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, and stearyl alcohol are what add slip to the formulation for easy detangling.  

Karen’s Body Beautiful Butter Love

I apply this butter to my hair as my final sealant after wash day. I use the LOC method to ensure that my hair remains moisturized throughout the week. Karen’s Body Beautiful Butter Love serves as the “cream”. It is a saturated oil, so that means that it is thick and heavy enough to provide a long-lasting coating to prevent against moisture loss. I focus this product on the tips of my hair, as these are the oldest and most delicate parts, making them more prone to breakage.

This butter is a mixture of shea, cocoa, mango, jojoba, and aloe butters as well as essential oils, grapeseed oil, and vitamin E. Each of these ingredients has essential nutrients that improve the luster, health, and manageability of our hair.

What are your Holy Grail products and why? We’d love to know the products that you absolutely cannot live without! 

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published October 14, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

DIY Moisturizing Conditioner

This conditioning mix is great for naturals who suffer from dryness, because it is loaded with natural emollients and moisturizers. Honey and glycerin are humectants while Greek yogurt and olive oil contribute to locking in the moisture in your strands.

• ½ cup Greek yogurt
• 1 Tbsp. honey
• 1 Tbsp. pure vegetable glycerin
• 2 Tbsp. olive oil  

Combine all ingredients in a bowl with a hand or stand mixer. Whip for 3-5 min., ensuring that all ingredients are well mixed. Transfer your mixture to a mason jar or any other recycled bottle of your choice. After shampooing your hair, apply your conditioner to the length of your hair. Begin at your ends as these as the most delicate and prone to damage. Allow the conditioner to sit on your hair for 20 minutes covered with a plastic cap. Your body heat will aid in the further absorption of the product, leaving your hair fully hydrated. Rinse off thoroughly and continue with your regimen.

DIY All-Natural Detangler

This recipe here has been a lifesaver for me. It melts away my knots and tangles. The secrets to its effectiveness are the emollients. Each ingredient adds lubricating properties to this mix.

• 4 Tbsp. olive oil
• 2 Tbsp. avocado oil
• 2 Tbsp. glycerin
• ½ Tbsp. coconut cream

Mix your ingredients in a bowl. Make sure that they are fully mixed for an even consistency. Apply to the length of your hair, saturating your strands from root to ends. Wear your plastic cap and leave the mixture on for 25-30 min. This allows the concoction to settle into your strands. The high moisture content will soften your strands and make them supple.

DIY Moisturizing Leave-In Spritz

Many naturalistas commit to spritzing their hair at least once a day, in order to give their strands an extra moisture boost. I’ve found this particular recipe as effective as a leave-in mix.

• ¼ cup-water
• 2 Tbsp. aloe vera juice
• 1 Tsp. glycerin
• 1 Tsp. olive oil

Pour the ingredients into your spritz bottle. This mix is great for when your hair is feeling dry or crunchy. Whether you are outside playing a sport or simply running errands in hot weather, this spritz will give your hair added moisture. 

What are your favorite DIY recipes? We’d love to know! What ingredients work best for your hair, and which don’t?

By Tabitha Tongoi · Published September 30, 2015

As a coily, Type 4 naturalista, I always thought that I automatically had coarse hair. Many times, the words kinky, coarse, and coily are used synonymously to mean “tough” or “bushy” hair, but this a huge misconception. Let’s clear the air shall we?

What is coarse hair?

Two type 4 naturalistas might have the exact same curl pattern, but very different hair widths or textures. One head of hair might hold a twist out for days, while the other falls limp within a few hours. Oftentimes, we are quick to think that we are simply using the “wrong product” or that our hair is “dry and unruly”, but it might all boil down to a difference in hair widths.  

Hair strands can differ by the tightness of our curls and the widths of our strands. There are generally three types of hair widths: fine, medium, and coarse. Each is determined by the average circumference of one’s strands. Coarse hair is generally described as hair with the largest circumference. It has three distinct layers known as the medulla, cortex, and cuticle. All curl types can have coarse strands. Hair texture is determined by genetics just like your curl pattern is. 

Is coarse hair the same as coily hair?

Based on our definitions above, no. Coily hair, as in Type 4 and afro-textured hair, can be coarse. This simply means that strands with a tight curl pattern can also have a wide circumference. Alternatively, wavy, Type 2 hair can be coarse, meaning that strands with a loose curl pattern can have a wide circumference.

Is coarse hair the same as thick hair? 

No, the term “thick” is often used to refer to the density of one’s strands, meaning the number of hair follicles on one’s head. If you have lots of hair follicles, you might have a full head of hair with very fine strands. Alternatively, you might have very few follicles, but strands with a wide circumference, meaning that your scalp is not clearly visible. Coarse means a wider hair strand and fine means a smaller hair strand.

Phew! Now that all that jargon is out the way, why don’t we dive right into what oils work best for coarse hair. 

Read more: The Biggest Mistake Women with “Thick” Hair Make

What oils work best for coarse hair?

Coarse hair is lauded in the hair care community. Every product out there seems to claim to “add thickness” and “revive limp hair”. Healthy coarse hair is the strongest of all hair types. It can withstand a lot more heat, hold a style for longer, and can withstand a variety of chemical processes. Additionally, coarse hair is not as easily weighed down from products like fine hair, and so it can withstand slightly heavier oils. Owing to the sheer width of each strand, coarse hair tends to feel a lot drier, a lot quicker. Oils that penetrate the strand work to preserve the moisture within the hair shaft, and in so doing prevent breakage from dryness. Within the natural hair community, two oils are best known to be easily absorbed into the hair shaft: coconut oil and avocado oil.

Coconut oil 

This oil needs no introduction. Many naturalistas claim that it is the answer to all their hair problems! If you don’t believe me, check out all the hilarious memes on Instagram. In all seriousness though, coconut oil is high in vitamin E, vitamin K, and iron, which effectively eliminate dandruff while boosting hair growth. Audrey Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black hair, writes comprehensively on the benefits of coconut oil. “Coconut oil has a strong affinity for hair proteins not found [unlike] other hair oils and is able to penetrate wet hair fibers.” This in turn protects the hair from mechanical damage during washing. 

Avocado oil

Avocado oil is rich in vitamins A, B, and D. An article by scientists at the Textile Research showed that avocado oil penetrates the hair shaft due to its straight chain glycerides. Science jargon aside, avocado oil is the bee’s knees when it comes to coarse hair, as it effectively protects against moisture loss.

Read more: The Truth About Avocado and Wheat Germ Oil

Pre-poo treatment

1. Heat 2 teaspoons of coconut oil 
2. Apply sparingly to the length of your dry hair and focus on the ends as these are the most delicate. 
3. Massage gently into your scalp for several minutes until fully absorbed. All curly hair types with fine hair can benefit from this method. 
4. Wear your plastic cap and leave on overnight. 

Sealant

Coarse hair is prone to dryness owing to the sheer width of the hair strands. That simply means that whenever you’re done with wash day, you must seal in the moisture with an oil.

1. Use 2 teaspoons of avocado oil.
2. Rub it in your palms to heat it up.
3. Dab it along the length of your hair, focusing on the ends as these are the most delicate.

There’s no need to be heavy handed. This will leave you with a greasy mess! Of all hair types, type 4 naturalistas with coarse hair will benefit most from this technique, as their curl pattern is the most delicate and therefore prone to damage and breakage from excessive handling.

Do you have coarse hair? Have you used oils in your hair regimen? What’s your experience been?