Search Results: Tabitha Tongoi

The Benefits of Kakadu Plum for Hair

When I’d tell people I was moving to Australia, most would respond by saying, “enjoy their accents but good luck with all the strange plants and animals!” Now that I’m here, I’ll tell you this: the Australian accent is very pleasant to listen to and their flora and fauna isn’t that strange after all. If anything, their wild plants have some great beauty benefits. Allow me to introduce you to the kakadu plum, Australia’s unique superfood.  

What is the kakadu plum?

The kakadu plum is an Australian native plant found in the northwestern regions of the continent. Its scientific name is Terminalia ferdinandiana and it is locally known as gubinge, murunga, or Billygoat plum. It has been used by indigenous Australian communities for centuries as an antiseptic, food, and a healing remedy. 

The kakadu plum is a nutrient-rich, botanical powerhouse and one of Australia’s superfoods. Scientists believe it developed an efficient system to protect itself from the oxidative stress caused by constant exposure to harmful rays of the sun.

The kakadu plum contains the world’s highest concentration of nutrient-available vitamin C with up to 3000mg of vitamin C per 100g of fruit. This is 50 times the amount found in an orange. It’s full of antioxidants, anti-fungal, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory properties.

What are the benefits of the kakadu plum for hair?

Kakadu plum-infused hair products supports moisturization and hydration in curly hair. By maintaining the level of collagen and elastin, kakadu plum can boost moisture and gloss in particularly dry or lusterless hair.

These five hair products have kakadu plum extracts:  

  • Kevin Murphy Hydrate-Me Masque– Infused with kakadu plum, rosehip, and evening primrose oil, this conditioning mask draws from its rich vitamin base to infuse strands with hydration. 
  • Australian Native Botanicals Conditioner For Coloured Hair– With no sulphates, silicones, or synthetic fragrances, this conditioner offers restoration for colour-damaged hair from its rich kakadu plum antioxidants.
  • Salon Only Repairing Shampoo– Rich in desert lime, kakadu plum, and native quandong extracts, this shampoo’s protein rich formulation fortifies the hair context to promote elasticity and shine.
  • Organic Selections Rosemary & Kakadu Plum Conditioner– As a scalp tonic, this vegan-friendly, sulphate-free, and vegetarian conditioner draws from a wide base of nature’s best powerhouses to restore moisture balance to curls and kinks. 
  • De Lorenzo Insant Allevi8– Formulated from baobab protein, kakadu plum and cactus flower, this desert-inspired range promises to restore moisture and shine to your curls. 

Research sources

5 Things I Love About Wearing Two-Strand Twists

When I first went natural, I had no idea how to best style my hair. I found lots of conflicting information online on which styles were better or worse for natural hair. It took a lot of trial and error—including a really laughable crotchet braids experience—to finally realise that my hair prefers to be styled in two-strand twists. Here’s why I found them to be more effective than other styles: 

My hair grows in tufts

One of the most enlightening aspects of going natural has been learning how my hair grows. I’ve observed that if left untouched for a few weeks, my hair sprout out in tufts. Individual strands of hair coil around each other and grow out together almost like locks. Two-strand twists allow me to keep my hair growing in this same pattern – by keeping my strands twisted, I imitate my hair’s natural inclination to grow in tufts.

Easy to install

The only tools I need to install my –strand twists are my fingers. I simply section off my hair, gently detangle it and proceed to wrap one section of hair around another. I honestly cannot imagine an easier style to install! Some naturalistas like to add holding creams and butters to the length of their hair as they twist it up, but that’s as complicated as it gets.

Great for all lengths of hair

I’ve worn strand twists from when I had 4 inches of hair to this very moment when my hair is about 20 inches long. I’ve found them equally effective at all lengths. When my hair was shorter, I’d wear micro-twists and as my hair has grown longer I’ve made my twists slightly thicker. The great thing about twists is that you can install them as you please regardless of the length of your hair.

Easily styled and accessorized

I like to consider my twists as a variation of locks. In other words, I draw inspiration from my naturalistas with dreadlocks when it comes to styling. Sometimes I pin my strands up and away in a bun and other times I’ll interweave them to don a more chic and sophisticated style. Heck I might wear a flower crown and let my strands grace my face or add a little bow for some sunshine on a rainy day. It’s all about what works for you really. The bottom line is two-strand twists are versatile and can be styled just as easily as one would locks.

They allow me to nurture the health of my hair while keeping it protected. This is one of the aspects I love the most about my two-strand twists. When I first went natural, I was keen to keep my strands protected but also moisturised. I found that with styles like braids or even weaves, I was able to do the former but hardly the latter. However with two-strand twists, I’ve found I can keep my hair protected and in a low manipulation style while still deep conditioning and moisturising as usual. I complete my entire regimen in my two-strand twists and only retwist my hair as necessary.

Have you worn two-strand twists as a protective style? What’s been your experience? Leave us a note down below, we’d love to know! 

"My Hair Always Looks Dry" – Here’s How to Make it Moisturized & Shiny

Having Type 4 hair can be lots of fun. Our coils are versatile and can easily take on a wide variety of styles and updos. That said, many of us struggle with “dry-looking” hair. Yep! You read that right, our hair naturally has less sheen than other curl patterns, but shine is not always indicative of moisturized hair and lack of luster is not always a reflection of dry, damaged hair. BaldHeadSmallHea from Curly Q&A inquired about how to tell if her hair is dry or simply naturally shine-free, as she’d like to achieve juicy waves on her 4c hair. 

Question

My hair always appears to be dry, even though it isn’t…or is it? I’m not sure, but I know that isn’t the way my hair naturally should be. I shaved my head multiple times to try and start over and reset the hydration. Every product I use seems to either be too heavy and thick and sits on my hair, or it just doesn’t do enough.

PLS HELP ME! I want juicy waves not dry and crunchy!

Answer

It is worth acknowledging that the beauty industry promotes glossy shiny hair. Advertisements for sheens and elixirs have somehow made shiny hair translate to healthy hair. However, as is the case with 4C hair, this isn’t always true. Type 4 hair cuticles tend to be raised meaning our hair refracts rather than reflects light. This in turn may give the appearance of “dull” hair. That said, there are several ways to abate dryness and in turn add a shine to our hair.

Read more: You are Feeling Texture, Not Texture

Ensure that your moisturizing game is top notch

Be sure to keep up with my weekly deep conditioning treatments. Moisture is essential for the health of our hair as it adds elasticity and prevents breakage. Now your hair doesn’t have to be soaking wet all day every day, but make sure to have it drenched in water at least once a week.

Always deep condition after you cleanse

Always deep condition or use a daily conditioner after cleansing your hair, especially with a shampoo. Daily conditioners and deep conditioners close the cuticle after it has been lifted by cleansers. Remember that a closed cuticle increases the potential of shine.

Seal your strands with natural oils

I prefer natural oils like olive oil, avocado oil, or coconut oil, as they’ve proven to be effective sealants over the course of my five year natural hair journey. When my hair is slightly damp after a wash, I apply a tablespoon of olive oil and a tablespoon of coconut oil along the length of my hair and then follow through and braid or twist my hair. When I take my twists or braids out, my hair is shiny. 

What are your favourite ways to add hydration and sheen to your hair? 

5 Accessories Every Natural Should Own

Now don’t get me wrong, I think my coils are pretty just the way they are, but there is nothing wrong with adding a little oomph here and there, right? Hair accessories come in many varieties and as naturals we are spoiled for choice. These are my top five ways to accessorize my coils:  

1. Flowers 

Flowers are one of my favorite accessories to add an air of femininity and playfulness to my coils. Sometimes I will thread a fresh rose through my strands or maybe let I will let it rest on the crown of my ear. At other times, I will clip down a well-crafted hair brooch to add a gentle touch of elegance. Either way I love that flowers add a captivating lightness to my coils.

2. Hair Crowns

Lots of naturalistas like to refer to themselves as queens, and rightly so! Lucky for us, there are lots of hair accessories we can use to celebrate our status. Hair crowns come in all shapes and designs and are easily available for a few dollars online and in major retailers. From feather trim fascinators to beaded and bejeweled chains, we can transform into angelic bohemian beauties!

3. Hats

Not only do hats protect our precious coils from the harmful effects of the sun, they are a sure way to add personality to your entire outfit! There are lots of hats in the market from bowler hats to fedoras to berets; the list is endless. We are truly spoilt for choice! That said, as a coily hair enthusiast I understand that hats can cause mechanical damage to my hair, so I make sure to buy satin lined hats for an added layer of protection.

4. & 5. Turbans and Scarves

Turbans and scarves are my most practical hair accessory. I can’t tell you the number of times I have stood in front of my mirror with only three minutes to walk out the door and absolutely no idea what to do with my hair. And voila! Turbans and scarves have come to my rescue! I whip up a sassy wrap in a minute, secure it with some bobby pins, and I am ready to hit the streets.

How do you accessorize your coils? Leave us a note down below, we’d love to know!

5 Easy Ways to Save Money on Your Hair

Many naturalistas are conscious of the costs that come with wearing their curls and coils. So I thought I’d share some tips that have helped me splash less cash. Now let’s get to business: business in all sense of the word because this post is all about how to not break the bank as a naturalista. 

Truth is many of us come to discover the joys of natural hair as students or as newly-earning young women. By virtue of this reality, we don’t have all the money in the world to spend on our hair care, and natural hair can be expensive for several reasons.

Most of the brands that are creating products tailored to the natural hair community are new and have only a few years. As you can imagine, this means that their overheads might be expensive and as such their prices have to be a little inflated to cover costs. Secondly, a good number of popular brands are currently based in the US, so exporting them to the rest of the world can be expensive for international shoppers like myself.

So, how might we minimize the costs of maintaining natural hair?

Stock up on the basics

This is essential. After four years of natural hair care, I have come to realize that all I need in my product stash is a cheapie cleansing shampoo, moisturizing deep conditioner (DC”>, protein deep conditioner, and sealing oil. That is it! I do not need three different types of hair growth oils or four different types of shampoos for each week of the month. I have learned to keep my stash simple and my hair has been a lot happier. It is not weighed down by 16 types of oils or a 27-step wash day process. Keep it simple for the sake of your hair and your sanity!

DIY

Lots of products that naturalistas claim to be at the core of their regimen can easily be duplicated at home. For example, if you would like leave-in conditioner, you can make it yourself.

Here’s a simple recipe:

  • fill a 100ml spray bottle halfway with plain water
  • add a teaspoon of your deep conditioner
  • add half a teaspoon of glycerin, and lastly
  • add 1-2 tablespoon of rosewater

There you have it! Your very own leave-in conditioner.

Alternatively, instead of investing in a fancy bottle of elixir, head over to your kitchen and grab some sunflower oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sesame oil, or coconut oil. These products are probably better for your hair, as they do not have artificial additives.

Alternate

Treating your hair to that $50 deep conditioner every week might be too expensive. Instead, take the opportunity to alternate with a cheaper conditioner as a DC one week and your expensive DC then next. Oftentimes cheaper conditioners can still do the same good as more expensive conditioners. At the end of the day, a product’s formulation is what works for our hair not the price tag on it.

Stick to the basics

Remember that at the end of the day the goal of natural hair care is to keep your strands moisturized. That said, what everyone needs is water. A basic regimen includes cleansing, moisturizing, and sealing. So as long as you are faithfully sticking to the process, you should be good to go.

How do you save cash when it comes to your natural hair care? Leave us a note down below, we’d love to know! 

How I Use My Natural Hair to Present Myself to the World

I don’t know about you, but I can’t help but be inspired by the range of fashionistas in the curly hair community. Whenever I scroll through my Instagram feed, I’m graced with photos of curly-haired divas of all shades, shapes and sizes, proudly adorned in the latest trends. I’m truly inspired by their quiet confidence and their steadfast self-assuredness. 

I’d like to think that embracing their curls has had something to do with it.

As a young, black woman my natural hair journey has greatly informed my view of myself. Hours spent staring at my face in the mirror as I gently detangled my kinks have in many ways led me to introspection. My natural hair journey has pushed me to think deeper about my identity – what makes me unique? What do I like? What do I stand for? How do I present myself to the world? How does the world receive my presence? Wearing my hair natural has brought me to contention with myself on many occasions, but what was once chaos is resolving into charisma and self-love.

As a young black woman, I’ve come to learn that fashion is an abysmal discussion. Amongst naturalistas, some use their clothing to make radical political statements and others yet to express themselves creatively and artistically. Personally, I straddle the divide, if at all there is one.

As a creative thinker, I’ve used my hair and clothing to make political statements through acts of self-portraiture. I’ve worn my hair in a big afro and dressed in all black then invited myself into spaces in which my chocolate skin was unusual. I’ve found my curls to be radical in that they defy gravity and form a halo around my head – crowning me as a queen as many of us naturalistas like to say.  

Beyoncé’s Super Bowl performance is similar case in point. The berets and strong afros were hardly a subtle comment on racial inequality in the United States, rather, they were the exact opposite. Beyoncé’s performance caused a storm. This goes to show how politicized our hair and physical adornments are as black women.  

going natural has given me the power to redeem myself from the standards of a racially politicized world.

From yet another perspective, my natural hair journey has taught me to focus on myself and to do things for my own satisfaction rather than that of others. Rather contrastingly to the aforementioned point, going natural has given me the power to redeem myself from the standards of a racially politicized world.

I wear my kinks and coils paired with a power suit into corporate meetings. I strut my twist out paired with elegant, flowing gowns at formals. I wear my kinky twists wrapped in flower garlands and paired with bohemian hues to concerts. I’ve let go of the shame I felt for having “different hair”. I’m learning to loosen the standards I’ve held for my physical appearance because I’ve come to learn that they didn’t glorify my features in the first place. I’ve learned that I don’t need to “tidy up” my hair in order to “slay”. My journey is ongoing, but this I know will remain true: my value and self-worth does not depend on whether I wear my curls out or wrap them in braids or whether I’m in casual jeans or a formal gown. I am beautiful either way.

Has your natural hair influenced your style? If so, how?

4 Life Lessons I Learned Going Natural
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow
Life can be full of ups and downs, just like our natural hair journeys. Trust me, this is not an overstatement. While some naturalistas like to say “hair is just hair,” I’ve found the opposite to be true. Being natural has, in many ways, informed my views on life. And so for me, natural hair is more than hair, in many ways, it is a way of life. Here’s what being natural has taught me about life:

We don’t always have all the answers

When I think back to the day I did my big chop, I can hardly believe how little knowledge I had on the journey ahead. But still, I plunged into the natural hair community as I was inspired by the experiences of other women. I’m sure glad I did because the more I embraced my kinks and curls, the more motivated I was to learn more about how to nurture my strands. I found the same to be true in other areas of my life as well. Many times I have plunged into the heart of the unknown simply because I was driven by passion, but I’ve found joy in learning along the way. The journey is just as important as the end goal.

Time heals and repairs all things

Like split ends, bald spots, and evasive edges! Trust me, I started my hair with a pitiful bunch of strands. I had bald spots on the crown of my head and if you’d seen me then, you’d probably be skeptical as to why I was still hopeful about my hair, but as life tends to prove rather often, time heals and repairs all things. Girl, the locks that were once ear length are now waist length!

Consistency is fundamental

If you’ve been natural for a while, you’ve probably figured out that consistency is paramount to the growth and health of our hair. Regimen building, deep conditioning regularly, and protective styling militantly will yield results. Every 15 min. you spend moisturising your hair and every hour you spend detangling will pay off. With steadfast determination, you will see results.

The same applies to any star or celebrity around us. There’s no such thing as an overnight success. Beyonce, Serena Williams, Oprah Winfrey – each of these women is who they are today, because they excelled in consistency. Each of these women is the best in their field, because they acquired the knowledge and skills to set them apart from the rest. Accordingly, in life, to win we have to consistently put in the hard work.

The Power of Self-Love

The natural hair life, in many ways, is an introspective journey. Hours spent standing in front of my bathroom mirror, gently working my fingers through my kinks and coils; hours spent accepting my body in a world that oftentimes questions its validity, have validated my self-worth . Loving oneself as a young woman is one of the most important journeys you could ever embark on. From self-love springs creativity, resistance, acceptance, change, and growth. Self-love is foundational. We must look deep within ourselves and lavishly forgive ourselves before we can look to heal the world around us. Self-love spills into and bears fruit in the rest of life and begins when we believe without a shadow of a doubt that we are beautiful, brilliant, worth it, and gifted.

What has being natural taught you about life? Leave us a note down below, we’d love to know!

5 Tips to Confidently Wear Your Natural Hair
Photo by Craving Yellow
Learning to wear our hair confidently is a significant aspect of our natural hair journey. Even though I’ve been natural for almost five years, I still struggle with this reality of my hair care from time to time. When I started my hair journey, I thought having long, curly hair would be the cure to all my insecurities, but I’ve come to learn that the issue at hand is not length or texture but rather a mental process of learning to love and accept our kinks and coils just as they are. 

These are five tips I found helpful as I learned to confidently wear out my natural hair:

Wear it out

There’s no other way to get better at something than by practice. Ever heard of the phrase practice makes perfect? Well, this is one of those situations in which we can‘t simply hope to grow in confidence! We must continually put ourselves out there and rock our curls. Day 1 might be difficult. You might feel like the entire world is staring at your hair, but with time, you will realize the power of self-confidence. Our kinks and coils are beautiful, so go ahead and rock them proudly. The world will adjust. 

Learn what works for you

Now some naturalistas are absolutely fine with rocking their hair in a ‘fro everyday. I have a friend, Yanda, who is always rocking her ‘fro out beautifully. She slays! Learning what works for you is part of learning to love yourself. Some naturalistas can rock a set of fierce cornrows from January to December. Others can rock those faux locs. Others still are safe as houses working their TWA’s and high cheekbones. Each style works for each woman and her personality differently. To be confident in rocking your curls, experiment a little and find what works best for you.

Think about your aesthetics

And I do not mean this in any demeaning way. To me aesthetics is your whole look. Head to toe. Now this topic can be an article of its own, but natural hair is intrinsically controversial and political, regardless of an individual’s intentions. As women of color our aesthetics – skin tone, hair type, and body shape are constantly under the glare of a non-consenting media. However, I’ve come to learn to wear my hair out despite this reality. If anything, going natural is a way of expressing and taking pride in our rich cultural diversity.

Fill in your physical package

Oh goodness me, that sounded extremely chauvinistic, but let me explain what I mean. “Package” means your complete physical appearance. Think about what clothes and accessories make you feel most comfortable and confident. Do you love heels? Rock them! Are you the queen of flats? Chuck them on! Throw on that shirt you love or a little lipstick that makes you feel confident. I know this might come across as superficial, but trust me, adding simple accessories to your look add sophistication to your entire fit. I have found that the better I feel about my whole look, the more confident I feel in wearing my natural hair.

And lastly, if not most importantly…

Remember that physical beauty is, after all, a chasing after the wind. There will always be someone to envy and someone who envies you. Someone who thinks your natural hair is absolutely stunning and yet another who cannot be bothered. I have found that the most important aspect of growing in confidence is to focus on your inner sense of self-worth. Build your character, learn to give, support a friend, volunteer at a shelter. Many times when I’m feeling insufficient in my physical beauty, it is because I am spending too much time focusing my energies on how I think others perceive me. When I turn my outlook inwards, I find that my inner qualities are truly what make me beautiful and whole. Do what you can to look your greatest, but do not allow it to consume you. You are enough. You are absolutely gorgeous just the way you are. Now believe it and beam it!

How Brands Select Fragrances for Hair Care Products
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow
Have you ever bought a hair product just because it smells good? I sure have! For some reason, the fragrance of a product is somehow related to how well I think it’s going to perform on my hair. Sweet, fruity scents leave my hair feeling like I just stepped out of tropical paradise with woody and balsamic scents such as vanilla and sandalwood. The fragrance and packaging of a hair product work hand in hand as important marketing tools for best-selling hair care products. In this regard, these are three factors that brands take into consideration when selecting fragrances. 

First impressions count

Brands are well aware that they only have a couple of seconds to capture your attention. If you only have a couple of minutes to select and buy a new hair product, you are most likely to use scent as a differentiating and deciding factor. To this end, hair companies tailor their first impressions around the top note of their products. According to Antonio Centano, founder of Real Men Real Style, “the top note is the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after application.” Typical top notes are light floral, citrus, fruity, aquatic, or spicy scents that last from 15 min. to 2 hrs. Top notes communicate a feel good experience that resonates with many consumers, making them more likely to purchase one product over another.

Scents add sophistication 

According to New York Times Fashion & Style Writer, Bee Shapiro, some beauty companies today are taking that idea that scents add sophistication to new extremes. According to Shapiro, there’s been an increase in the number of corporate clients for sophisticated hair care scents, and believe it or not, woodsy musk and spiced up vanillas are trumping fruity-fragranced lathers. High-end salon brands are moving away from the single top note fragrances, such as those in popular retail brand Herbal Essences, and replacing these with multi-layered fragrances. Aside from their actual formulations, luxury hair care lines are differentiating themselves from mass produced, retail lines simply by crafting complex scents and pricing them dearly.

Fragrances and brand identity

Have you ever wondered why companies like Carol’s Daughter continue to distinguish themselves from new and upcoming hair care lines? Well, it might boil down to their consistency in developing soft, tropical fragrances. In other words, fragrances can carry the identity of a product. In a single waft, they are able to heighten the perception of a product’s functionality by imparting a powerful subliminal message that they are of high quality. Brands are aware that while the simple function of washing hair is a common beauty regimen, it’s also a sensory experience, so they tailor their fragrances to communicate a superiority and distinction.

Have you bought hair products simply because they smell good? If so, what products most appealed to you and which didn’t? 

Why I Don’t Comb My 4c Hair Anymore

Have you ever wondered why locked hair can grow very long? Well I like to think that it’s for two reasons: the first is that shed hair is not lost, and the second is simply that locked hair is uncombed natural hair with little to no manipulation.

Before I went natural, I combed my hair every single day without fail. I’d use very fine-toothed combs to lay my hair down – that is, the few strands that I still had left after chemical and mechanical damage. Looking back now, four years after my last relaxer, I can confidently say that combing my hair was one of my most detrimental hair practices.

Combs caused severe mechanical damage to my strands. They literally shred my individual strands to pieces

Here’s what I’ve learned from my experiences: combs caused severe mechanical damage to my strands. They literally shred my individual strands to pieces, leaving them frail and tattered. For me, weak strands resulted in lots of breakage, which in turn resulted in minimal length retention. Here are a few alternatives I’ve found to combs:

Opt for finger-detangling rather than brushing

Our fingers are our greatest friends when it comes to natural hair care. Finger detangling simply refers to the practice of frequently using your fingers to separate your strands and prevent them from knotting. It may take longer than brushing, but trust me, your strands will thank you.

If you must use combs, use seamless wide toothed combs

Seamless combs are those whose teeth do not have a fine line of demarcation where the pieces of plastic meet. These lines of demarcation can be razor-sharp and cause damage to our strands. Seamless combs tend to be higher in quality and therefore more expensive, but at the end of the day, they do save your strands.

If not seamless combs, try wide-toothed combs

Wide-toothed combs are those that literally look like rakes. You want to have your combs teeth as far apart as possible – literally half of an inch or so! If used correctly, wide-toothed combs lightly detangle our hair without causing too much mechanical damage.

One of my greatest secrets to my long, coily hair is that I hardly ever comb my hair. This doesn’t mean that my hair is unkempt but rather that I gently use my fingers to style my hair in low manipulation styles. I’ve found this tactic helpful in retaining length.  

Have you tried to go without a comb? If not, what styling tools do you use? 

Kick-start Your Journey to Long, Healthy, Natural Hair
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow
The growth of the natural hair community over the past ten years has been phenomenal. We’ve grown from a handful of hair bloggers in the early 2000s to thousands of YouTube vloggers in 2015. A simple Google search confers hundreds of articles on how to grow and maintain naturally curly hair. There’s no denying that anyone that’s eager to grow out their natural hair now has all the information they need at the touch of their screens. 

However, if you are new to natural hair care, sifting through all the information online sure can seem daunting. You’ll have to have lots of time on your hands to get a grasp of all the information that is out there. With differing opinions on matters as basic as how to detangle your hair, you might find yourself overwhelmed and confused.

This is precisely why I put together my Back To Basics With Craving Yellow YouTube series. In this information-packed series, I share my top tips on how to kick-start your journey to long, healthy, natural hair. Each 1-3 min. video is tailored to give you clear and straightforward responses to these ten foundational natural hair questions.

Why natural hair?

The most foundational question of all. I share what my own journey has meant to me as well as all the amazing healthy hair results I’ve experienced as a natural.

Should I transition or big chop?  

You can either big chop or to transition. I get into the pros and cons of each and share my own experience. I thought I’d last two years with both textures, but after eight months I wanted my curls so bad, I grabbed a pair of hair shears and snipped my relaxed ends off.

How to build a natural hair regimen

I truly believe that the most foundational practice of natural hair care is a healthy hair regimen. There’s no way out of this one, if you’re after a full healthy and luscious mane, you must commit to this practice. The rest of the series offers step-by-step guide on how to build your regimen.

Pre-pooing, shampoo, and co-washing

Cleansing our hair is absolutely critical to the overall health of our hair. However, cleansing products can be some of the most detrimental to our hair’s luster. I explain this paradox and offer some useful techniques on how to effectively cleanse your strands.

How to effectively deep condition

I offer some simple pointers on how to use deep conditioning to maximise moisture retention in your strands. I also suggest some simple and effective methods to strengthen your strands using hydrolyzed protein.

Post wash hair care: rinsing, drying and sealing

I share some tips on how to seal your cuticles using coffee and tea. Turns out these hot beverages are effective on our hair. I also talk about the much loved LOC method and why you should use it to seal in your hair’s moisture.

Heat and natural hair

In this section, I argue that there’s hardly a reason why you should use heat on your natural hair. If you want to stretch your hair, braid it in three strand braids, and then take them out. Direct heat is the enemy of length retention. Avoid heat like the plague.

Choosing the right products for your hair type

Here, I demystify the myths that some products can grow or soften your hair. I argue instead that in order to know whether or not a specific product will work on our hair, we need to read the ingredient lists.

Protective styles for length and health retention  

I suggest that you keep your hair in a long term (4-6 week”>, low manipulation styles such as two-strand twists. I also explain why I stopped wearing braids with extensions, and the difference this has made for my length retention.

The difference between shedding and breakage

In this section, I differentiate between shedding and breakage, then offer some easy steps that you can take to minimise breakage. Remember, the less your hair is breaking, the more length retention you’ll see.

What questions do you have as a new natural? What do you find most difficult about navigating all the information online? 

Dealing with "Hard Hair" and Other FAQs about 4C Hair
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow
Natural hair care can be daunting for newbies. Although there’s lots of information online on how to nurture our hair, it can be conflicting or confusing. As a blogger, I get asked a lot of questions on how to best care for type 4 hair. Our texture has the tightest curl of them all and so it may require extra care in order to prevent tangling and matting. Here are some responses to some of the questions I get asked the most: 

What is the difference between shedding and breakage?

Shedding is a natural part of our hair’s growth process. Shedding refers to the process by which hair that has reached the end of its growing cycle naturally falls from the scalp along with the root bulb attached. Breakage, contrastingly, is when our hair breaks along the hair shaft. It can be caused by dryness, weathering from exposure to the weather elements, and over manipulation during styling and maintenance. Factors that increase your shedding rate include styling methods that place stress on your hair follicles, hormone changes, illnesses, and genetics. If you’re in doubt, always consult your doctor.

How can I prevent breakage during protective styling, particularly after wearing braids?

Firstly, ensure that your protective style is well installed. Braids that are too tight will cause breakage. Secondly, remember to maintain your regimen by keeping your roots moisturized regularly. Lastly, wear your protective styles for a reasonable amount of time. Leaving a protective style installed for more than 6-8 weeks, especially without a touch-up, can cause breakage, which is counterproductive.

Read more: Caring for Your Hair Before, During, and After Protective Styling

Can re-twisting your hair every night lead to breakage?

This is a tricky one. Re-twisting your hair every night does help reduce tangling and keeps your hair stretched. At the very same time, it might mean that you are constantly manipulating your hair, which might weaken your strands and lead to breakage. I’d suggest wearing long-term protective styles such as two-strand twists that do not require too much daily styling. Keep up with your moisturizing regimen in order to strengthen your strands and prevent damage.

Do you trim your own hair? If so, how often? And do you do so on wet or dry hair?

I have my hair professionally trimmed once a year when I have my hair anniversary. This is done on flat-ironed hair. Throughout the year I trim dead ends as they arise, and I do this on dry hair.

Do you use black tea/coffee rinses? What about baking soda rinses?

I have used black tea/coffee rinses with much success. They are speculated to help prevent shedding after wash day. I’ve used baking soda once – it made my hair rock hard, so that was also the last time I used it. For deep cleansing, I’d just rather use a cleansing shampoo once every six or so weeks.

Read more: Caffeine for Hair Growth: Is It Better in Coffee or Shampoo?

How do you deal with “hard hair”? Is there a way to soften “hard hair”?

Well natural hair definitely feels “hard” when compared to relaxed hair. What you are adjusting to is a texture change. There is no product, technique, or style that can alter this “hardness”. Our curl pattern is naturally prone to tangles. Learning how to handle our hair’s texture is all part of the fun. I’ve found that keeping my hair stretched by wearing it in two-strand twists, braids, or plaits is really helpful. Over time I have gained experience with styling. The same will be true for you!

Read more: What Having “Hard Hair” Really Means

Do you wrap your hair up at night?

I wear a satin scarf every single night without fail. If my hair is in two-strand twists, which it normally is, I’ll simply pin the ends away and then throw on my satin scarf.

Where to Buy Natural Hair Products in Kenya
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow
The natural hair community in Kenya is growing fast. Kenyan naturalistas are proudly ditching relaxers and embracing their curls and coils. We are learning good hair practices and sharing our ideas and techniques on various social media channels. Since the natural hair movement originated in the United States, many Kenyan naturalistas are accustomed to hair products that have been formulated specifically for the needs of natural community in the USA.

As such, some entrepreneurs are importing products from the United States while others are manufacturing products in Kenya. Online stores have sprung up to meet the demand for local and US-produced products. Here’s where to shop for curly hair products in Kenya.

Social media market platforms

Kurlly Soko is the affiliate store of Kurlly Diaries, a Facebook group that was started in support of the natural hair community in Nairobi. Here you can find products such as the Organix line, crotchet braids, and Eco Styler gel.  Tricia’s Naturals’ MarketPlace is one of the better-established social media market platforms. Retailers have products such as Jamaican black castor oil, cold pressed oils, perm rods, Cantu Shea Butter, and bentonite clay. Products fly off these virtual shelves, so make sure that you are quick to make your purchases.

Online Stores Selling Handmade Hair Products

Sheth Naturals, Ajani Handmade, and Shea Butter Kenya all have e-commerce sites. These stores pride themselves in using local labor and ingredients in formulating their products. I’ve tried Ajani Handmade products and loved them. Their waridi butter is a great sealing cream.

Mainstream Supermarkets and Beauty Supply Stores

While mainstream beauty supply stores aren’t stoking a vast range of natural hair products just yet, some stock high quality supplementary hair products and styling tools. Supermarkets Uchumi and Nakumatt stock aloe vera juice, rose water, apple cider vinegar, baking soda, glycerin, satin bonnets, and spray bottles. Some international brands such as Tresemme Naturals, Giovanni, Herbal Essences, and Garnier Fructis are also in select Nakumatt and Uchumi outlets.

Beauty supply stores such as Our Price Kenya, Jumia Kenya, and Ashleys, all of which have been dominating the hair products scene in Kenya for decades, have yet to fully catch up to the demands of the natural hair community in Kenya. There’s still tremendous room for growth in the natural hair products market in Kenya.

Are you a natural in Kenya? Where do you purchase your hair products? Spill the beans girl! Let’s help each other out here! 

Products that Keep My Long, 4c Hair Healthy
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow
Now more than ever before there are numerous hair products tailored to meet the needs of natural hair. There are a variety of cleansers, sealants, conditioners, butters, and styling creams that are meant to keep our curls healthy and popping. Out of the hundreds of options out there, these three remain my Holy Grail products. These products never fail to consistently render great results.

Tresemme Naturals Moisturizing Conditioner

The Tresemme Naturals Moisturizing Conditioner is silicone-free and is infused with aloe vera juice and avocado oil. It does have some useful alcohols such as cetyl alcohol as its third listed ingredient to help prevent dryness. This product would work great for type 4 naturalistas with fine hair.

The first time I used this product, it left a thin film on my hair that would not wash off. Because of this, I kept off it for a long time. However, I kept seeing rave reviews in various hair forums and decided to give it another try, and I’m sure glad I did. This conditioner has made its way up to my list of Holy Grail products because it is accessible, affordable, and has tons of slip.

I use this conditioner for my co-washes. I simply apply a coin-sized amount to the length of my hair, let it sit for about 3-5 min., and then rinse it off with a cup of ACV followed with cool water as a final rinse. I find that this conditioner leaves my hair intensely moisturized and manageable.  

Read more: Good Alcohols vs. Bad Alcohols

Hair Chemist Macadamia Oil Deep Repair Masque 

I came across this product in a small beauty supply store in Delaware. I had not heard of it before or seen any reviews of it online, but I decided to purchase it and give it a try. I have not looked back since! I apply a palm-full of this deep conditioner to my hair from root to ends after my weekly cleansing routine and then I let it sit on my hair for about 30 min. I have also received great results when using a hair steamer. 

This lightweight deep conditioner has a lot of slip, which make it great for detangling. While it does claim to be a reconstructor for damaged hair, I have found it mild enough to use on a weekly basis without causing protein overload. It seems to be the perfect blend between a strengthening and a moisturizing deep conditioning treatment.

In terms of ingredients, this conditioner has a mixture of jojoba, olive, sweet almond, and macadamia oils. It also has hydrolyzed wheat, corn, and soy protein to strengthen the hair shaft. The cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, and stearyl alcohol are what add slip to the formulation for easy detangling.  

Karen’s Body Beautiful Butter Love

I apply this butter to my hair as my final sealant after wash day. I use the LOC method to ensure that my hair remains moisturized throughout the week. Karen’s Body Beautiful Butter Love serves as the “cream”. It is a saturated oil, so that means that it is thick and heavy enough to provide a long-lasting coating to prevent against moisture loss. I focus this product on the tips of my hair, as these are the oldest and most delicate parts, making them more prone to breakage.

This butter is a mixture of shea, cocoa, mango, jojoba, and aloe butters as well as essential oils, grapeseed oil, and vitamin E. Each of these ingredients has essential nutrients that improve the luster, health, and manageability of our hair.

What are your Holy Grail products and why? We’d love to know the products that you absolutely cannot live without! 

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My Favorite DIY Recipes for My Long, 4c Hair
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow
While the natural hair community is booming with lots of products that are organic, paraben-free and sulfate-free, it is still bursting at the seams with mixtresses who create their own hair remedies. It sure does not hurt to mix up your own hair treats once in a while. In fact, many well established brands began right at home by mixing up ingredients that proved to produce great results. These three DIY recipes are easy to make and are budget-saving.

DIY Moisturizing Conditioner

This conditioning mix is great for naturals who suffer from dryness, because it is loaded with natural emollients and moisturizers. Honey and glycerin are humectants while Greek yogurt and olive oil contribute to locking in the moisture in your strands.

Combine all ingredients in a bowl with a hand or stand mixer. Whip for 3-5 min., ensuring that all ingredients are well mixed. Transfer your mixture to a mason jar or any other recycled bottle of your choice. After shampooing your hair, apply your conditioner to the length of your hair. Begin at your ends as these as the most delicate and prone to damage. Allow the conditioner to sit on your hair for 20 minutes covered with a plastic cap. Your body heat will aid in the further absorption of the product, leaving your hair fully hydrated. Rinse off thoroughly and continue with your regimen.

DIY All-Natural Detangler

This recipe here has been a lifesaver for me. It melts away my knots and tangles. The secrets to its effectiveness are the emollients. Each ingredient adds lubricating properties to this mix.

  • 4 Tbsp. olive oil
  • 2 Tbsp. avocado oil
  • 2 Tbsp. glycerin
  • ½ Tbsp. coconut cream

Mix your ingredients in a bowl. Make sure that they are fully mixed for an even consistency. Apply to the length of your hair, saturating your strands from root to ends. Wear your plastic cap and leave the mixture on for 25-30 min. This allows the concoction to settle into your strands. The high moisture content will soften your strands and make them supple.

DIY Moisturizing Leave-In Spritz

Many naturalistas commit to spritzing their hair at least once a day, in order to give their strands an extra moisture boost. I’ve found this particular recipe as effective as a leave-in mix.

  • ¼ cup-water
  • 2 Tbsp. aloe vera juice
  • 1 Tsp. glycerin
  • 1 Tsp. olive oil

Pour the ingredients into your spritz bottle. This mix is great for when your hair is feeling dry or crunchy. Whether you are outside playing a sport or simply running errands in hot weather, this spritz will give your hair added moisture. 

What are your favorite DIY recipes? We’d love to know! What ingredients work best for your hair, and which don’t?

2 of the Best Oils for Coarse Hair

As a coily, Type 4 naturalista, I always thought that I automatically had coarse hair. Many times, the words kinky, coarse, and coily are used synonymously to mean “tough” or “bushy” hair, but this a huge misconception. Let’s clear the air shall we?

What is coarse hair?

Two type 4 naturalistas might have the exact same curl pattern, but very different hair widths or textures. One head of hair might hold a twist out for days, while the other falls limp within a few hours. Oftentimes, we are quick to think that we are simply using the “wrong product” or that our hair is “dry and unruly”, but it might all boil down to a difference in hair widths.  

Hair strands can differ by the tightness of our curls and the widths of our strands. There are generally three types of hair widths: fine, medium, and coarse. Each is determined by the average circumference of one’s strands. Coarse hair is generally described as hair with the largest circumference. It has three distinct layers known as the medulla, cortex, and cuticle. All curl types can have coarse strands. Hair texture is determined by genetics just like your curl pattern is. 

Is coarse hair the same as coily hair?

Based on our definitions above, no. Coily hair, as in Type 4 and afro-textured hair, can be coarse. This simply means that strands with a tight curl pattern can also have a wide circumference. Alternatively, wavy, Type 2 hair can be coarse, meaning that strands with a loose curl pattern can have a wide circumference.

Is coarse hair the same as thick hair? 

No, the term “thick” is often used to refer to the density of one’s strands, meaning the number of hair follicles on one’s head. If you have lots of hair follicles, you might have a full head of hair with very fine strands. Alternatively, you might have very few follicles, but strands with a wide circumference, meaning that your scalp is not clearly visible. Coarse means a wider hair strand and fine means a smaller hair strand.

Phew! Now that all that jargon is out the way, why don’t we dive right into what oils work best for coarse hair. 

Read more: The Biggest Mistake Women with “Thick” Hair Make

What oils work best for coarse hair?

Coarse hair is lauded in the hair care community. Every product out there seems to claim to “add thickness” and “revive limp hair”. Healthy coarse hair is the strongest of all hair types. It can withstand a lot more heat, hold a style for longer, and can withstand a variety of chemical processes. Additionally, coarse hair is not as easily weighed down from products like fine hair, and so it can withstand slightly heavier oils. Owing to the sheer width of each strand, coarse hair tends to feel a lot drier, a lot quicker. Oils that penetrate the strand work to preserve the moisture within the hair shaft, and in so doing prevent breakage from dryness. Within the natural hair community, two oils are best known to be easily absorbed into the hair shaft: coconut oil and avocado oil.

Coconut oil 

This oil needs no introduction. Many naturalistas claim that it is the answer to all their hair problems! If you don’t believe me, check out all the hilarious memes on Instagram. In all seriousness though, coconut oil is high in vitamin E, vitamin K, and iron, which effectively eliminate dandruff while boosting hair growth. Audrey Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black hair, writes comprehensively on the benefits of coconut oil. “Coconut oil has a strong affinity for hair proteins not found [unlike] other hair oils and is able to penetrate wet hair fibers.” This in turn protects the hair from mechanical damage during washing. 

Avocado oil

Avocado oil is rich in vitamins A, B, and D. An article by scientists at the Textile Research showed that avocado oil penetrates the hair shaft due to its straight chain glycerides. Science jargon aside, avocado oil is the bee’s knees when it comes to coarse hair, as it effectively protects against moisture loss.

Read more: The Truth About Avocado and Wheat Germ Oil

Pre-poo treatment

  1. Heat 2 teaspoons of coconut oil 
  2. Apply sparingly to the length of your dry hair and focus on the ends as these are the most delicate. 
  3. Massage gently into your scalp for several minutes until fully absorbed. All curly hair types with fine hair can benefit from this method. 
  4. Wear your plastic cap and leave on overnight. 

Sealant

Coarse hair is prone to dryness owing to the sheer width of the hair strands. That simply means that whenever you’re done with wash day, you must seal in the moisture with an oil.

  1. Use 2 teaspoons of avocado oil.
  2. Rub it in your palms to heat it up.
  3. Dab it along the length of your hair, focusing on the ends as these are the most delicate.

There’s no need to be heavy handed. This will leave you with a greasy mess! Of all hair types, type 4 naturalistas with coarse hair will benefit most from this technique, as their curl pattern is the most delicate and therefore prone to damage and breakage from excessive handling.

Do you have coarse hair? Have you used oils in your hair regimen? What’s your experience been?