Search Results: Sophia Emmanuel

If you are experiencing hair loss you are probably familiar with the vast amount of hair loss treatments out on the market claiming to regrow your hair. Some treatments can help restore hair loss while others have harmful side effects or ingredients that irritate the scalp causing dandruff, dry scalp, or allergic reactions. Is there such a treatment for hair loss that is drug free that actually regrows hair without all the harmful side effects?

Low level laser therapy has become popular in medical offices, hair restoration clinics, and hair salons to help promote hair growth for people experiencing hair loss, specifically for people experiencing androgenetic alopecia.

Read more: What You Need to Know About Temporary and Permanent Hair Loss

What is androgenetic alopecia?

Androgenetic alopecia is a progressive type of hair loss that affects the crown, front, hair line, and temporal areas of the scalp. Over time hair follicles produce fine, thin, light colored hair. These fine, light colored hairs are called villus hairs. They become thin because of a process called miniaturization.

During the miniaturization process normal, healthy hair is choked by dihydrotestosterone also known as DHT. DHT shortens the hair growth cycle creating thin textured hairs. Over time hair follicles affected by Dihydrotestosterone may close and the scalp becomes noticeable.

One of the benefits of low level laser light therapy is to reverse miniaturization causing hairs to regrow fuller and healthier from the hair follicle. Before we discuss the benefits of low level laser light therapy lets define what it is.

What is low level laser light therapy?

Low level laser light therapy is a treatment used to regrow hair. According to Founder of Theradome, Tamim Hamid, “Human tissue is irradiated with photons (quantized bundles of light energy”>, which are absorbed by weak cells. With this extra energy, cells can return to a normal healthy state and resume their role within the human body.”

What does this theory have to do with laser light promoting hair growth? Light from the laser device produces energy to the cells of the hair follicle which helps the hair follicle cells perform at their best and produce healthy strands of hair that create a thicker, fuller appearance.

Side effects of low level laser therapy

This is a non-invasive laser treatment that does not burn or cut the skin.  It has been used successfully in Europe for over 30 years and has no known side effects.

How effective is low level laser therapy?

The results of low level laser therapy vary from one to person to the next. It is not a miracle. If you decide to have laser therapy you should consult a dermatologist, trichologist, or hair transplant surgeon to learn your options and to help make the proper decision about laser therapy. Laser therapy for hair loss works well with a combination of other treatments.  Treatments recommended may include the taking of oral medications or DHT inhibitors such as Finasteride also known as Propecia for men. DHT Inhibitors may be recommended to use with laser light therapy because they retard the hair follicle miniaturization process.

A trichologist may recommend taking a supplement with herbs that block DHT naturally such as saw palmetto and green tea extract. You should always ask your doctor before you take these supplements to make sure it is the best and safest option for you.

Topical treatments such as Rogaine, also known as minoxidil, may be prescribed to use with laser therapy to optimize hair growth results. Hair growth is possible as long as follicles are present on the scalp. Area’s on the scalp where you have more hair follicles will respond well and you may see more hair growth because of low level laser therapy, but areas on the scalp where you have fewer follicles will produce less hair. Low level laser therapy can also help contain your hair loss so that the area in question does not grow in size.

Cons of low level laser therapy

You have to be consistent. When using laser therapy for hair loss or other scalp problems, you need to know that you will have to use the light therapy as often as three times a week, for 15 to 20 min. per session. It is recommended to skip days in between laser therapy sessions. You will also be required to use laser therapy forever.  The minute you stop using the therapy, any results you see will be lost and you will eventually have the amount of hair loss you had before you started the laser therapy. Laser therapy works best in the beginning stages of hair loss. The earlier you start the therapy the more success you will have. This treatment is not one size fits all and it is important to understand the type of hair loss you have first before you purchase a laser device for hair loss or a laser therapy package from a hair loss clinic.

Laser therapy for hair loss can be pricey if you go into a hair restoration clinic or hair salon for the therapy. Prices could range from $1200 to $3500 a year for treatment inside a location but there is no guarantee that you will get hair growth results. Many doctors and trichologist believe more research is required to prove how well low level laser therapy works at promoting hair growth.

At-home low level laser therapy devices

Hand held laser devises are more affordable than paying for low level laser therapy service at a clinic or salon. Hand held devices can range from $295 to $495. If you want a more comfortable hands free laser to use at home, you can try the Theradome. The Theradome LH80 PRO has been FDA- cleared to treat androgenetic hair loss and promote hair loss specifically for women with female pattern hair loss. The Capillus Low Level Laser was created as a cap that you can use at home or on the go to treat your hair loss discreetly.  h

There are a variety of products available at drugstores and beauty supply stores to help control dandruff and reduce itch, inflammation, excess oil production, and other symptoms associated with scalp conditions.

Sometimes a scalp condition can occur because of a specific allergic reaction to an ingredient in one of the hair products you are using. Use a process of elimination and stop using products you use repeatedly one at a time to pinpoint which product could be responsible.

When you are searching for a product to help treat your dandruff problem, make sure you know what ingredients will help control your symptoms.

Antiseptics

Antiseptics prevent infection. In anti-dandruff shampoos they are used to help retard or stop the growth of fungus and yeast associated with dandruff and severe cases of scaly problems like seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis.

Examples of antiseptics found in shampoos to treat dandruff are selenium sulfide, salicylic acid, pyrithione  zinc, sulphur iodine, ketoconazole, and hydrogen peroxide.

Shampoos with antiseptic ingredients:

• Selsun Blue Dandruff Shampoo for Itchy Dry Scalp
• Head and Shoulders Green Apple Shampoo
• Mizani Scalp Care Shampoo
• Nizoral A-D Ketoconazole Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
• DHS Zinc Shampoo

Antipruritic

According to Cleveland Clinic, “pruritus or itch is defined as an unpleasant sensation of the skin that provokes the urge to scratch.” Many people who suffer with scalp problems complain of having an itchy scalp. It is recommended to avoid scratching the scalp so your scalp will not be inflamed or get infected. An antipruritic can help soothe the scalp and reduce the need to itch. They are found in shampoos, lotions, creams, and lotions for the scalp. An antipruritic leaves the scalp feeling cool. Camphor, coal tar, menthol, and eucalyptus are all antipruritic.

• Head & Shoulders Itchy Scalp Care with Eucalyptus Dandruff Shampoo has pyrithione zinc to reduce flakes and eucalyptus to soothe your scalp and reduce itching.

• Therapeutic Denorex Maximum Itch Relief has 1.8% coal tar and 1.5% menthol to relieve constant itchy scalp. It is a shampoo and conditioner in one.
• Scalpicin Maximum Strength Liquid Scalp Itch Treatment claims to help “temporarily relieve itching associated with minor skin irritation and rashes due to seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis and eczema.” Scalpicin has 1% hydrocortisone alcohol to reduce itching, glycerin to moisturize a dry, tight scalp and help soften flakes, and menthyl lactate, which is a derivative of menthol used as a cooling agent in hair and skin care products.

• Selsun Blue Scalp Itch Treatment has 1% hydrocortisone to combat itch and aloe barbadensis leaf Juice to soothe the scalp.

Keratolytics

Keratolytics aid in the normal desquamation process of the skin.  Desquamation is the natural process of skin shedding of the epidermis. When this natural process takes place at a rapid rate like psoriasis, coal tar, sulphur, and salicylic acid can help with the process of flake removal from the hair and scalp.

• T/Sal Scalp Therapeutic Scalp Build up Control has 3% salicylic acid and is to be used as the first step of flake removal. This product helps to loosen sticky scales on the scalp.

• Extra Strength Denorex has 3% salicylic acid to help control buildup on the scalp and remove scales from dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Extra Strength Denorex helps reduce itching. This product is a shampoo and conditioner in one.

• MG217 Therapeutic Coal Tar Scalp Treatment has 3% coal tar. Therapeutic Coal Tar Scalp Treatment is designed for psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. This product helps remove stubborn scales and relieves itch by moisturizing the scalp. Coal tar helps to slow down cell reproduction.
• T/Gel® Therapeutic Shampoo – Stubborn Itch has 0.5% coal tar to help remove flakes and menthol to reduce itch and soothe the scalp.

There are many people who suffer with dandruff.  Dandruff is defined as flaking of the scalp. The cause of dandruff is unknown but the excess amount of the yeast Malassezia found on the skin may play a role in the cause of dandruff. Dandruff can range from moderate to chronic and is a condition that many people suffer with. If you suffer with dandruff do not feel ashamed or embarrassed because there are a variety of products to help control the flakes and reduce the itching associated with the flaky scalp.

Moderate dandruff

If you have a moderate type of dandruff you can find over-the-counter products to help reduce the flakes and itching. When you use over-the-counter products to control flakes you may need to shampoo twice a week until the dandruff gets under control. Once the dandruff is under control, you can space out shampooing if you notice that the flakes do not come back in two to three days.

Some signs of normal dandruff are white flakes found on your shoulders, itchy scalp, tight scalp, and tender scalp from scratching your scalp.

Exaggerated dandruff

Exaggerated cases of dandruff can be seen by looking at your flakes. Do you notice flakes that are differentiated in size? Does your scalp burn or tingle? Do your flakes stick to your hair or pile up on your skin? These are signs and symptoms of a more severe case of dandruff like seborrheic dermatitis.

Seborrheic dermatitis

Seborrheic dermatitis is a problem with oily skin and the flakes are yellow in color. The scalp will be red in color and feel tight. The scalp will feel sore and tender from itching. The most common areas affected are the hairline and forehead. Seborrheic dermatitis is not limited to these areas and can be found anywhere on the scalp, as well as the neck, back, chest, face, ears, and anywhere else on the body.

Genetics and hormonal imbalance may play a role in the cause of seborrheic dermatitis. The frequent use of a shampoo or treatments containing 3% sulphur, 3% salicylic acid and an anti – fungal ingredients like ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione or selenium sulphide can help keep flakes under control.

Pityriasis amiantacea

Pityriasis amiantacea is a problem seen with people that have psoriasis or can be seen alone. According to the International Association of Trichologists Hair and Scalp Problems, “Pityriasis means scaling and amiantacea means asbestos – like, which describes how the flakes can look”. With pityriasis amiantacea the flakes stick to the hair or the hair sticks to the scalp. Some signs of pityriasis amiantacea include swollen red or reddish yellowish scalp and white flakes. Hair loss can occur if you are constantly scratching your scalp and damage the follicle.

Psoriasis

Psoriasis is an autoimmune problem of the skin. It occurs when a certain group of white blood cells attack healthy cells in the skin. Abnormal cell division causes skin cells to shed prematurely. Normal skin cells have a life span of 28 days for psoriasis; the rate is 10 times faster causing the buildup of red, scaly patches on the skin.

Triggers of psoriasis are exposure to a new substance, stress, injuries to the skin, and viral and bacterial infections. People who suffer with psoriasis are genetically predisposed to it. The amino acid Tyrosine may be recommended by a trichologist to help control the symptoms of psoriasis. Tyrosine helps increase the resistance of hair follicles to the autoimmune attack in the skin.

Lichen Simplex occurs with red, flaky patches by the nape area or along the neck near the hairline. This problem results in extreme scratching of the scalp and causes lichenification. Lichenification occurs from chronic itching and the skin becomes hardened and feels leathery. The main goal is to try and stop scratching the area in question. Hair loss and hair breakage may result. The cause of lichen simplex is unknown but emotional stress, and allergic reactions to cosmetics or a genetic predisposition may trigger lichen simplex. Lotions and creams containing menthol or camphor can help reduce the itching and products with 3% tar and 3% salicylic acid can be used to control the flakes.

Folliculitis

Folliculitis takes place when your follicles are inflamed. Signs of folliculitis include small pustules at the follicle openings where the inflammation occurs. You may experience severe itching and a tender scalp. For treatment you can use medicated topical treatments, antibiotics, or antiseptic’s to control the problem.

Ringworm

Ringworm is also known as tinea capitis. Ringworm is a fungus infection that creates a scaly circular bald patch on the skin or scalp. If you suspect you or a child has ringworm, you need to see a doctor immediately because ringworm is contagious. Your doctor will prescribe antibiotics to get rid of the ringworm.

Have you had any scalp problems similar to one of these? What did you use to control the problem?

If you have an itchy or flaky scalp condition, such as seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, or psoriasis, one of the ways to control the problem is to cleanse frequently. Many of my clients ask if I recommend hair extensions as a style they can wear for low maintenance even though they suffer with a flaky scalp problem like dandruff.

I always tell clients that they should shy away from styles that close their hair and scalp in when they have a scalp problem because they need to control the symptoms by frequently cleansing the hair and scalp. When you have hair extensions and your scalp is closed in, you cannot cleanse the scalp thoroughly or use prescription topical treatments properly. Flakes and dirt buildup on the scalp only worsen the scalp condition.

There are styles that you can wear that are low maintenance but still allow you to regularly address the needs of your hair and scalp. If you are cleansing one to two times a week, you can do any one of these low maintenance styles in between shampoos.

Two Strand Flat Twist

One style option I recommend for minimal maintenance as possible is to wear a two-strand flat twist style. If you shampoo your hair once a week, a two strand flat twist style can be very low maintenance because you can leave the style in place until your next shampoo. Two strand flat twist look like cornrows except two pieces of hair create a twist that lays flat against your scalp instead a braid.

This style can beneficial if you have prescription topical medication that has to be applied to your scalp to alleviate itch, and flakes associated with some scalp disorders because the scalp is open and accessible for you to use your treatments.

Loose Bun or Ponytail

A loose bun or ponytail can also be low maintenance and works perfect for the person who is limited on time. I can’t stress how important it is to cleanse your scalp regularly when dealing with problems that cause excessive flaking of the scalp. Cleansing regularly allows you to keep the problem controlled. Never pull your curls, waves, or coils into a bun or ponytail while soaking wet. Pulling your hair back into a bun or ponytail while the hair is soaking wet creates an unhealthy scalp environment increasing bacterial and fungal growth, which can worsen symptoms such as inflammation, itch, flakes, scalp odor, and redness. Let 80% of the water dry out of your hair with a diffuser, blow-dryer, or by air-drying.

French braid or Dutch braid

A French braid can be another option if you want a change from the classic bun or ponytail. A French Braid is scalp friendly if you have a scalp problem because it does not requiring any tension on the hair or scalp.  Your scalp will not feel too tight or inflamed.  A French braid is also very versatile and there are many ways to create a unique style at home for yourself.

Read more: 30 Best Braids and Braided Hairstyles

Wigs

If you want an extension option and you have a scalp problem, I recommend trying a wig. You can take off a wig when you get home and shampoo your hair and scalp as needed. Stay away from wigs with clips or combs because they can irritate the scalp and worsen your condition. The combs or clips attached to wigs can also cause hair loss or hair breakage if worn too often. Try to get more than one wig so when you shampoo one wig you have another wig to alternate. Wigs are great options because your cornrows can be loose. Styles with the continued use of tension can cause permanent hair loss called traction alopecia.

With so much information available today, it is easy to find numerous solutions claiming to fix hair problems but one size does not fit all so seeing a trichologist can provide you with the guidance you need to make the right decision about the best treatment for you. A trichologist’s job is to help you find the cause of your problem, but there things you and your licensed hairstylist can do to prevent seeing a trichologist or making hair and scalp problems worse.

How can your hairstylist prevent you from seeing a trichologist?

A licensed cosmetologist should know the basic signs of a hair or scalp problem. A sign is something you or your hair stylist can see. When it comes to certain types of hair loss early detection is crucial in slowing down hair loss. If a hairstylist notices a sudden bald patch that was not there previously the hairstylist should automatically let you know and recommend service or style changes to prevent further damage, especially if you are getting extensions and certain protective styles that require hair added or braids. In this case you may need to see a trichologist or dermatologist to find out why the bald patch occurred but the stylist can prevent worsening the problem by taking proper precaution once the bald patch is noticed and letting you know immediately.

If you are experiencing hair loss already and have been going to a hairstylist routinely, the hair stylist should be able to tell you if the hair loss is getting worse. Sometimes clients are so devastated by hair loss and ignore the fact that the hair loss is getting worse. Because hair loss can be progressive, a hairstylist can let you know in a discrete way that the hair loss is growing in size before it is too late to get help for the problem.

A hairstylist should know when to tell a client “no”

As a hairstylist my number one goal is to make sure my clients leave my chair completely satisfied with a particular style or service. I make sure that I give clients what they want without destroying the integrity of the hair or compromise the health of the scalp.  An example of when a stylist should say no to a client is when a client wants extensions and they have a scalp condition such as dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or psoriasis. Extensions done where cornrows are applied to the hair and then hair extensions are sewed down to the cornrows worsen flaky scalp problems.

An example of when a stylist should say no to a client is when a client wants extensions and they have a scalp condition such as dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, or psoriasis.

Cleansing the scalp regularly controls flaky scalp problems. When the hair and scalp is covered by cornrows and extensions it is difficult to cleanse the scalp properly to remove scalp buildup. If you have medicated shampoos or scalp treatments they cannot be applied properly if the hair and scalp is not exposed. The symptoms of flaky scalp problems, such as itching and inflammation, increase when tension of the braids and weight of extensions are placed on the scalp. The hairstylist needs to let you know that extensions are not for you. Doing so will prevent you from seeing a trichologist and the stylist can recommend routine scalp treatments you can use at home or in the salon to control your scalp condition.

Read more: This is Why Hairstylists Tell You “No.”

A hairstylist should do a consultation before beginning a shampoo service

A hairstylist should consult with you about your hair or scalp before beginning your shampoo service to find out if there are any existing scalp or hair problems that concern you. A consultation offers a wealth of knowledge about what techniques and products should or should not be used before services begin. A common complaint by clients who have seen other hairstylist is the use of fingernails while shampooing their hair and scalp.  If a client has psoriasis or seborrheic dermatitis, these  issues need to be discussed in advance so every effort is made not to worsen the scalp condition and leave the clients scalp in pain after a shampoo. Scrubbing or scratching the scalp too vigorously with a flaky scalp problem causes bleeding and hair loss. To prevent a client from seeing a trichologist start the service off by asking the right questions and taking a moment to analyze the hair and scalp.

A trichologist helps people who have problems with their hair and scalp. One of the problems trichologists help with is hair loss. IAT certified trichologist David Salinger says, “Hair loss can relate to hormonal imbalances, autoimmune problems, nutritional deficiencies, genetics, and physiological or psychological stress.” This is why a trichologist has to look at more than just the hair and scalp to give a proper diagnosis. Many times a trichologist will ask you specific questions about your diet, lifestyle, genetics, nutrition, and medical history before he or she can determine what your problem is.

Signs you need to see a trichologist

Salinger says the following are all signs that warrant a trip to a qualified trichologist.

• Excessive hair loss
• Hair breakage
• A patch of hair loss
• Excessive facial hair for women
• Loss of eyebrows or eye lashes
• Hair thinning
• Patches of scale

Symptoms such as ‘burning’ of the scalp or an itchy scalp would also fall within the expertise of a trichologist.

Other signs

• Excessive oiliness or dryness of the scalp
• Excessive hair breakage after a chemical service
• Chronic dandruff
• Seborrhea dermatitis
• Psoriasis
• Trichotillomania 
• Excessive body hair for men
• Use of medications frequently

Questions

• Have you been diagnosed as anemic?
• Do you have a problem that causes malabsorption? (Malabsorption is the body’s inability to absorb nutrients.”>
• Do you have a thyroid imbalance?
• Do you partake in crash diets?
• Have you been diagnosed as hyperglycemic or hypoglycemic?

It is important to understand that hair loss can be triggered by more than one problem. It can take time to pinpoint what may be causing your problem and you may need a combination of different therapies to treat it. The best defense against hair loss is early detection.

What are the steps involved in a trichology consultation?

Trichology consultations can vary depending on the trichologist’s experience and educational training. If a person is trained by The International Association of Trichologist, he or she gets to use the IAT Certified Trichologist in front their name once they have passed their clinical training and final exam. We are taught to stay within the scope of our trichology training and learn to recommend a specific doctor or specialist when it is appropriate.

1. You will be asked a series of questions about your health, lifestyle, family history, and hairstyling practices. Questions are also asked depending on your overall complaint. 
2. The trichologist will analyze your hair and scalp. Sometimes the naked eye can be used to diagnose the problem. Other times, a digital microscope is used to examine the hair and scalp in more detail. Trichologist look for inflammation, patterns of hair loss, redness, dryness, oiliness, density of hair, color of the scalp, destroyed follicles, or brittle hair in order to come up with a conclusion. Trichologist can perform what is called a hair pull test. A hair pull test is when a trichologist gently pulls at your hair to determine if there is an excessive amount of hair loss. Losing one to three hairs during the hair pull test is normal. A trichologist may also examine lost hair under a microscope to see what stage of hair growth your hair is falling in. They can examine the shape and color of the hair bulb to determine specific types of hair loss.
3. The trichologist will give you an analysis, recommend possible treatments, or refer you to another specialist or doctor.

How do you find a qualified trichologist?

Finding a qualified trichologist takes some research. You can look up reviews or ask friends, family, or coworker if they know a qualified trichologist.  Don’t be afraid to ask a trichologist about their educational background and proof of certification.

Read more: Trichology: Study of the Hair and Scalp 

Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist.

Trichology is the scientific study of disorders of the hair and scalp, including anatomy, physiology, nutrition, and the chemical and physical makeup of the hair and skin.  The hair and scalp can be affected by imbalances inside the body and trichologists look at the hair, scalp, and systems of the body as one. According to trichologist Yvonne Solomon of YS Hair Solutions, “A trichologist can help get to the underlying cause of your problem. Trichologists address the issue as a whole and examine a person’s diet, lifestyle, personal hygiene, hair care practices, nutrition, medical history, and genetics to see what contributes to the hair or scalp disorder.” Some of the problems a trichologist can help with include chronic itching or scaling of the scalp, a sudden bald patch that has appeared on the scalp, excessive hair loss all over the scalp, or hair breakage from chemicals.

Sometimes your hair and scalp concerns are symptoms of a something related to your health, so tea rinses and oil massages are not always the best treatments. Dermatology, trichology, and cosmetology all have limitations, and if you are unsure of how to address your hair care and scalp issues, learn more about the different fields to book your appointment with the right professional.

Dermatologist

Solomon says, “A dermatologist is a medical doctor who specializes in the skin and scalp.  A dermatologist is qualified to prescribe medication and injections but a trichologist is not licensed to do so. Dermatologists help control the symptoms caused by the disorder by prescribing the appropriate topical treatment.”

Medical doctors can order blood work to investigate reasons why your disorder is happening. For example, if you are experiencing excessive hair loss all over the scalp, a doctor may want to check iron, ferritin, thyroid, sex hormones, or blood sugar levels to see if there are any imbalances that need to be addressed.

Trichologist

A trichologist stays within the scope of his or her practice and has to know when it is time to send the client to the appropriate doctor.  Treatments offered by trichologists may include low level laser light therapy, ultra violet therapy, massage therapy, aromatherapy, topical treatments, and recommending nutritional supplements. They can recommend a client to get blood work from a doctor but do not draw blood or order blood work. You can bring your blood work results into a trichology clinic and a trichologist can look for clues as to what may be triggering your problem.

Solomon adds: “Many times a trichologist will refer you to a medical doctor. The doctor does not have to be a dermatologist. A trichologist may recommend you to go to an endocrinologist or a gynecologist. Some people may be recommended to a psychologist because hair loss can cause severe depression or stress.”

Licensed cosmetologist

Licensed cosmetologists are trained to do more than just enhance a person’s hair, skin, or nails. They are trained to apply chemicals or products properly, follow manufactures instructions, and take every action necessary to prevent damage to the hair, scalp, or any other body parts. A cosmetologist must know when to tell a client that a specific salon service or style is not healthy for their hair or scalp. If a cosmetologist notices hair loss on a client’s scalp or another scalp problem and is unable to help the client with that particular problem, the cosmetologist should recommend a trichologist.

It is important to understand what the cause of your problem is before you choose a treatment.  If you don’t know what caused the problem, how will you know what treatment to use? Some problems of the scalp are self-correcting and no action is necessary because the issue will stop in time.

Whether you visit the salon occasionally or schedule routine visits for hair services, you should know what makes your salon visit longer or more expensive than necessary and what you can do to prepare for your hair appointment ahead of time.  This knowledge of salon practices will help you prepare for your salon visit and clarify why you may be charged extra for services.

Read more: Pt. 1 Upcharge Services at Salons that You Don’t Know About

Buildup from extensions

After you take down your braids or extensions, avoid going directly into the salon with month’s worth of buildup still in your hair. If you visited the salon for regular touch-ups or washed your hair thoroughly while wearing extensions, then this may not apply to you. It is important to cleanse your hair before going into the salon for services if your hair went months without washing. It can take several shampoos to remove dirt from the hair after taking down braids. This can create an additional fee if a stylist spends extra time at the shampoo bowl and is unaware.

Arriving late

There are many stylists who work hard to get clients out of the salon timely and efficiently. If you are going to be late for a scheduled hair appointment, call the salon and ask if they have a late policy or if they charge a late fee. Some salons, depending on the service, will reschedule your hair appointment if you are extremely late. Always give the stylist a courtesy call and ask if you should still come in or reschedule for another day.

Cancelation policy

Find out the salons cancelation policy. A client’s daily responsibilities such as work, school, or parenthood can conflict with pampering themselves. Things happen and sometimes at the last minute you have to cancel a hair appointment. Ask about cancelation fees and how long you have to give notice that you will not be able to make it to an appointment. Some salons will ask you for a credit or debit card in advance to secure your spot and may charge you a non-refundable cancelation fee if you cancel an appointment the same day. Be mindful that some salons design their schedules to meet each client’s required service time while also not accepting walk-in appointments, so when there is a no-show the stylist is not compensated for his or her time.

Schedule a consultation

Consultations are important for many services such as color, cuts, and smoothing treatments. A consultation can give insight on stylist professionalism and whether or not you feel comfortable with the stylist rendering your services. You can ask for photos if you are a visual person. Mostly, you want to know that the stylist is a specialist in the service you are requesting.

Reduced prices

If you go to the salon with your hair already shampooed and conditioned, do not assume that there will be a reduced price for the salon service you require.  You should find out in advance if there is a reduced fee because you shampooed and conditioned your hair already.

Product preferences

Many clients have favorite hair products or preferences and bring these products into the salon. You should find out from your stylist if he or she is willing or familiar with the brand of products you want to bring in. It is best to research and find a stylist that carries the line of products you prefer. It can be overwhelming to learn how to use a new product at the time of your hair service.

Keep an open mind

If you are going to a stylist for the first time, but you have had bad experiences with other stylist in the past, just go to your new stylist with an open mind. Hopefully, you can discuss all your concerns with your stylist before your service. This will help develop a long term relationship with the stylist and he or she will be able to help you reach your goals realistically.

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Read more: This is Why Hairstylists are Losing Money

You get your hair colored regularly, but it’s almost Christmas time and you need to cut back on certain costs. So you head to your nearest grocery store to get a box hair dye and do your own touch-ups at home. Your goal is “healthy hair color,” so you know for sure you want to go with the ammonia-free, PPD-free color.

What is PPD and is it really toxic?

Para–Phenylenediamine (PPD”> is a chemical found in permanent hair dye. According to DermNet NZ, PPD may also be found in “textile or fur dyes, dark colored cosmetics, temporary tattoos, photographic developer and lithography plates, photocopying and printing inks, black rubber, oils, greases and gasoline.” It is used in permanent hair color because it has long lasting results. PPD allows hair dye to remain in the hair without being shampooed out. PPD allows one to wear a perm to achieve waves or curls without the hair color being faded. It is also known to create natural-looking color on the hair.

Para–Phenylenediamine (PPD”> is a chemical found in permanent hair dye. 

Allergic and autoimmune reactions from PPD

Contact dermatitis is defined as ‘an allergic reaction to something that you touched.’ Reactions to PPD are typically mild and include red, itchy swollen eyelids or ears, or inflamed and swollen skin and scalp. An allergic reaction to PPD can also occur all over the body, and in severe cases cause contact urticaria and although not very common, anaphylaxis. According to DermNet NZ “contact urticaria reactions appear within minutes to about one hour after exposure of the offending substance to the skin.”

You may not get an allergic reaction to PPD the first time you color your hair; it can happen after using a hair dye several times. 

An allergic reaction to PPD could in rare cases trigger an autoimmune issue like as alopecia areata or psoriasis. One of these skin problems can occur if you have a genetic predisposition. Alopecia areata is defined as an autoimmune disease that causes small, round patches of hair loss. The hair loss can occur on the scalp or anywhere else on the body. Psoriasis is another autoimmune problem of the skin and results when the skin cells on the body or scalp shed at an abnormal speed causing silvery gray patches to develop on the skin, or scalp. These patches tend to flake, itch, burn and feel dry.

Other common names for PPD

Be aware of permanent hair color companies calling their dye “PPD-free”. It is important to read labels! These are common alternative names for PPD:

• PPDA
• Phenylenediamine base
• p-Phenylenediamine
• 4–Phenylenediamine
• 1,4 Phenylenediamine
• 4-Benzenediamine
• 1,4-Benzenediamine
• para-Aminoaniline
• Orsin™
• Rodol™
• Ursol™

Northwestern Medical Center of Chicago says “finding alternative hair dyes for individuals allergic to para-phenylenediamine (PPD”> has been difficult. Newer permanent and demi permanent hair dyes that have replaced PPD with para-toluenediamine sulfate (PTDS”> are now available.”

People who are not able to tolerate PPD in permanent hair color may be able to tolerate PTDS instead. PTDS is a substitute of PPD so there is still a possibility that you may have a reaction to PTDS.

Can you find PPD-free hair color?

Clairol Professional Beautiful Collection Semi-permanent Advanced Gray Solution will help blend in gray hair, and is safe for the skin because it contains no peroxide, ammonia or PPD.  Because this product is semi-permanent rise the color fades after each shampoo.

You can ask your stylist about new Koleston Perfect Innosense. This permanent hair color was designed for people who are sensitive to chemicals such as PPD and PTD in permanent hair color. Koleston Perfect Innosense is a permanent hair color that is formulated with new ME+ molecules. ME+ molecules reduce the risk of an allergic reaction and trap pigment into the hair so that you get long lasting, permanent hair color results. Koleston Perfect Innosense does not contain PPD or PTD.

How do I know if I’m allergic?

The only way to know if you are allergic to PPD is to have a permanent hair color applied to your hair. Many permanent hair color companies, like Wella, encourage a 48-hour Skin Patch Test prior to permanent color service. A negative skin patch test does not rule out an allergic reaction to PPD or any other ingredient in hair dye.  Wella.com states that even though its hair color is PPD-free and PTD-free, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. If you have ever experienced an allergic reaction to any hair colorant ingredient, including PPD and PTD, you should not color.

Tone represents how warm, cool, or neutral a hair color is. Tone is the underlying pigment that peeks out from our hair color. The level of a color refers to the lightness and darkness of a color; this is also called depth or shade. Light, medium, and dark blonde are examples levels. Levels go from one to ten.

Level one being the darkest color black and level ten being the lightest blonde. Each level of color distributes a different undertone as the level of color increase. A level one black could have a blue undertone. Although you see black hair color with the eyes, a blue tone is the underlying pigment that peeks through. Examples of warm colors are red, yellow, orange, and gold. Cool colors are blue, green, or ash. Violet is a neutral color and falls somewhere in between warm and cool. A level six is a dark blonde hair color that can have orange, neutral, or ash undertones depending on the desired result. Undesirable tones can be corrected by understanding the relationship between colors.

What is toning shampoo?

Toning shampoos get rid of unwanted yellow, orange, or brassy tones on permanent hair color, natural hair color, highlights, and gray hair. You can also use toning shampoos to reduce color fading and enhance hair color. Toning shampoos work by following the complimentary color theory. Complimentary colors are located directly across from each other on the color wheel. The color wheel is a tool hairstylist use to understand how colors relate. Complimentary colors are also known as neutralizing colors and are used to cancel out unwanted tones.

A violet toning shampoo, such as Clairol Shimmer Lights Shampoo, is violet because it neutralizes unwanted yellow tones on gray, silver, and blonde hair.  You would use this violet shampoo to achieve a cool or ash tone for your hair color.

Violet and yellow are complimentary colors. Joico Color Balance Blue Shampoo can help get rid of unwanted orange tones on naturally dark brown hair that has been lightened with permanent color or lightening powder. Blue is on the opposite side of orange on the color wheel and cancels orange or brassy tones.

Why do you need a toning shampoo?

Toning shampoos work much like temporary rinses and remain in the hair until the next shampoo. Toning shampoos deposit color on to the outer layer of the hair. They can temporarily stain porous blonde or gray hair, leaving a violet tone on the hair if the shampoo is left on the hair for too long. Unless you want violet hair color, which is a popular hair color today, timing with toning shampoos is everything. Leave your toning shampoo on the hair for three to five minutes and rinse.

You can use a toning shampoo two or three times a week, alternating with your regular shampoo. Rub the shampoo into the palm of your hands to dilute the shampoo before you apply it to your hair to avoid a purple or violet cast on the hair. Toning shampoos can also be used to enhance or preserve hair color as well. Try Joico Color Infuse Red Shampoo to reduce red hair color from fading, as red permanent hair color is the fastest color to fade.

Finding a treatment to combat flakes and dry scalp can be frustrating and confusing. There are a variety of scalp disorders that cause dry, itchy or flaky scalp including dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, scalp psoriasis, and tinea capitis also known as ring worm of the scalp. In order to know what treatment can help your scalp issue, you need to see a dermatologist. A dermatologist will identify which scalp disorder you have by looking at your skin and scalp. A dermatologist may take skin cells and examine them under a microscope or send the skin cells to a lab to give you a proper diagnosis.

Why does the scalp flake?

The scalp sheds dead skin cells.  This is a normal process called desquamation. The stratum corneum makes up the outer most layer of the skin called the epidermis. The stratum corneum is made up of 15 to 20 tightly packed cells that are keratinized. Keratinized cells are hard and dead. It is on the stratum corneum that desquamation or skin shedding takes place. Problems, such as dandruff, arrive when the cells of the stratum germinativum, which is the deepest layer of the epidermis, are pushed up to the stratum corneum, the epidermis to soon.

3 Dry Scalp Myths

Now that you know why the scalp flakes. Here are the myths of treating a dry, flaky scalp.

Myth #1: Use an anti-dandruff shampoo

The cause of dandruff is unknown, but an excessive amount of the yeast Malassezia globose could play a role. Anti-dandruff shampoos are formulated with ingredients such as zinc pyrithione and ketoconazole to slow down the division of bacterial and fungal cells. If you have been using an anti-dandruff shampoo two to three times a week for four weeks or longer, and do not notice a change, dandruff may not be the problem.

Some scalp disorders create flakes that are stubborn and not easy to remove with an anti-dandruff shampoo, for example, scalp psoriasis. The flakes associated with scalp psoriasis look like dandruff because they are a similar silvery gray color.  Scalp psoriasis is an auto-immune problem of the skin. This means that the body’s immune system tells skin cells to shed and produce new skin cells too soon. Instead of the cells shedding off of the scalp, they pile up on top of each other on the outer layer of the skin. When the skin cells pile up, they form a psoriasis patch. The patches are red and inflamed. Scalp psoriasis can be found on the ears as well as the back of the neck. Patches may burn and feel sore.

The cause of scalp psoriasis may be linked to foods with gluten, malabsorption, which is not being able to absorb nutrients by the small intestine, viral or bacterial infections, stress, and trauma to the skin.  Dry scalp is associated with scalp psoriasis, which may cause the scalp to feel tight and itch.

There is no cure for psoriasis, but a dermatologist can create a treatment plan that can keep problems associated with scalp psoriasis under control.  Treatments may include medication, medicated shampoos, scale softeners, topical steroid creams or injections.

Myth #2: You can remove flakes by scratching

Scratching the scalp will not help remove flakes. Don’t use a comb or any other sharp tool to remove flakes. With scalp psoriasis, scratching the patches can cause bleeding, temporary hair loss, and increase flakes. When shampooing the scalp, never use your fingernails or rub the scalp vigorously, instead, massage your scalp gently using your fingertips to help lift the flakes off the scalp.

Glycerin can help soften flakes. Glycerin is used in a variety of cosmetics because of its lubricating and moisturizing properties. Glycerin is easy to remove from the hair. You can use glycerin as an overnight scalp treatment. Apply glycerin to your scalp at night and the next morning shampoo the glycerin out of your hair.

Myth #3: Nutrition plays no role in inhibiting flaky, dry scalp

Often people think of their scalp as a problem with the surface of their skin, but the real cause could be much deeper. Nutritional deficiencies affect our hair, and excessive shedding of hair can occur until the imbalance in the body is treated. Your dermatologist can help you determine if your dry, flaky scalp problem is related to a nutritional imbalance. Be proactive and try to eat fruits and vegetables that contain B vitamins and zinc. B vitamins and zinc can reduce the auto-immune response to the skin by keeping flakes under control and combating itch. Eat an adequate amount of yogurt with the label “live and active cultures” or take a probiotic supplement for the benefits of the good bacteria. Good bacteria can help reduce the over production of yeast associated with some flaky scalp disorders.

How do you care for your flaky scalp?