Search Results: Sophia Emmanuel
Protecting your hair and scalp while coloring can be a challenge, because there are ingredients in hair color products that may cause allergic reactions or skin irritations for some people with sensitivities. Keep in mind that what may trigger a reaction from color in one person may not be the same for another person. These are some things you or your stylist can do to color safely and protect your scalp.
Know how color works to get the end result you are looking for
If you want to change the color of your hair by lightening it, you will have to use hair dye, which has to be mixed with peroxide and then applied to your hair. If you are getting a new base color, meaning the most dominant color you see after the artificial color is applied, your scalp may come in contact with ammonia, MEA, or monoethanolamide. The ammonia and monoethanolamine found in hair dye open up the cuticle of the hair shaft, so that the artificial color molecules and the developer penetrate into the cortex layer.
If you feel like you may have a sensitivity to one of these ingredients, you can try an off-the-scalp application to apply color. These techniques can be used so that the artificial color does not touch the scalp at all. You can apply color to the tips of your hair, midshaft, or bangs. Ombre and balayage techniques can be used, which are more freestyle color placement techniques that will not affect your skin or scalp.
Do a patch test if you are getting permanent color for the first time
This may seem like a waste of time but I recommend doing a patch test to make sure you are not allergic to any of the ingredients in the artificial color you are using. The test simply requires you to take the chemical color and apply a small amount with a cotton swab to an area like inside the fold of your arm, behind the ear, or the nape of your neck. Wait 48 hr. to see if there are any signs of redness, itching, burning, or rash. If you notice any signs of irritation, do not use the color. The slightest reaction is a sign to stay away from the chemical, because if it is applied to your scalp, it may result in a bigger problem.
Know how long the color needs to process
Depending on the type of color being used and the look you want to achieve, permanent color should process no longer than 30 to 45 minutes. Color can process longer if it is being handled by a licensed professional. A chemical is being used to change your natural hair color, so it is important for the color to process and be removed immediately, especially if you have hair loss or other scalp disorders like dandruff and dry scalp.
Do not retouch or redo permanent color to soon
It is wise to recolor your hair no more than every 4-6 weeks if you are going to use permanent color. Try to limit how often the hair dye is touching your scalp, which can reduce the chances of hair loss, hair breakage, dryness, and scalp irritation. If your color fades or your gray hair starts to show, use a temporary rinse or semi-permanent rinse to refresh your color or blend in gray hair until it is time to do a permanent color retouch. Semi-permanent and temporary rinses are deposit only and do not need an oxidizing agent to color the hair. They coat the hair and are not damaging.
How do you protect your scalp while applying hair color?
Genetics, stress, diet, nutrition, medical complications, and environmental problems can influence hair loss. Loss of hair may also be the result of improper use of chemicals or styling techniques. The only way to be sure about what is causing your hair loss is to see a dermatologist or trichologist who can examine your problem and diagnose it. Here are some common causes of hair loss.
Traction alopecia
The most common hair loss is traction alopecia. Traction alopecia can cause follicles to close permanently. Once the follicles are closed, your hair cannot grow back in that area on the scalp. The scalp will look shiny in a severe case of traction alopecia and if hair is present, the hair will be shorter than the rest of your hair and sometimes can be very fine in texture.
Common areas of the scalp affected by traction alopecia will be the hairline, nape and crown of the head. This type of hair loss is caused by wearing excessively tight hairstyles, such as braids, cornrows, extensions, twist and any other style with or without hair added that adds excessive weight or tension to the scalp.
Wearing these styles can be done without causing traction alopecia if you go to a licensed professional that is trained to do the service without causing damage to the scalp. The specialist will also give you pointers on best care practices for your scalp and the length of time the style can stay in your hair. The stylist will also be able to recommend the best technique for you based on your lifestyle or if you have a pre-existing scalp condition.
Medication
Can your medication trigger hair loss? The answer is yes, but according to philipkingsley.com, “If you are prescribed a drug that lists hair loss as a possible side effect, please don’t panic. It may only have a slight effect on hair fall, and also may only affect a small percentage of people in this way. The list of drugs that can impact your scalp are vast due to reports being received over a long period of time, and also the fact that all reported instances of hair loss need to be supplied to the consumer. If you are concerned that a prescription medication is causing hair loss, talk to your GP and a trichologist. The exceptions to this are medications given in very strong doses, or chemotherapy used in the treatment of cancer.”
Philipkingsley says, “Drugs used to treat cardiovascular diseases, such as hypertension, and to lipid (fats and cholesterol”> regulators can potentially cause extra hair shedding, they do not do so in everyone. Although the percentage of hair loss from many drugs is very small, it’s a factor to consider if you begin to lose your hair after starting a new medication. However, it’s important to realize that increased hair shedding usually occurs between 6 weeks and 3 months after starting a course of medication.”
Diffuse hair loss
When you start to notice that your hair is lot thinner in appearance all around the scalp, this could be a sign of an imbalance within the body. This type of hair loss is called diffuse hair loss or telogen effluvium. Your hair follicles do not close permanently and the hair loss can be corrected once the problem inside the body is treated or corrects itself. For example, some women experience excessive hair fall after pregnancy, known as post-partum hair loss. During pregnancy there are high levels of the hormone estrogen that promote hair growth. This happens because there are signals in the body that tell the hair follicles to stay in the anagen hair growth phase. About three months after pregnancy, in a result of the hormone levels going back to normal, the hair that grew in excess starts to shed. The hair loss takes about 3 to 4 months to stop by itself. The effects of pregnancy on hair vary based on the individual, because hormonal changes affect people in different ways.
Nutrition and hair loss
Nutrition plays a major role in one of the causes of hair loss. Philipkingsley.com notes that, “Hair is incredibly sensitive to internal organs. Your hair is the second fastest growing cell in your body, the fastest being your intestinal cells. However, unlike your intestines, hair is a non-essential tissue. Psychologically it is very important, but physically, you could easily survive without it. Your metabolism doesn’t prioritize your hairs needs, but instead aims to keep your essential tissues functioning first and foremost. This means your hair is usually the first to suffer from any bodily upset, and also the last to benefit from an improvement.”
Simply put, your hair is not an important tissue, so your body will not place the hair’s nutritional needs at the top of the list to address or fix. Make sure you are getting a balance of minerals, vitamins, proteins and complex carbohydrates to help hair cells to work at their best.
There are a variety of hair restoration options available to people who suffer with hair loss. Choosing the best solution for yourself takes time and a wealth of research. You do not want to waste money or time on a hair restoration service that is not the best fit for you, because in the end, you will have to spend more money to fix what you do not like. Here are a few options that can help you along your hair restoration journey to improve or enhance hair loss or thinning.
You do not want to waste money or time on a hair restoration service that is not the best fit for you, because in the end, you will have to spend more money to fix what you do not like.
Hair systems
A traditional way to restore your hair loss would be to use a type of hair piece. Traditional wigs, lace units, hair integration systems, and toppers, also called wiglets, fall into this category. They can be custom designed to fit your head and specifically detailed to cover up your hair loss.
What is great about custom designed units is that they can be tailored to your needs and you can pick the hair texture or a breathable fabric underneath the hair piece if you need to apply topical treatments or access your scalp easily.
Some of these pieces are attached with medical grade adhesive, clips, tape adhesive, combs, braids, or have a suction cap. Custom units look more natural because of the hair quality, colors, their ability to be cut, and parts that look like your scalp.
How do you choose the best hair system?
You have to consult with a hair restoration specialist who can tell you what is the proper system and the best way to attach the unit based on your lifestyle. For example, if you swim regularly or exercise often and you have an oily or dry scalp, you will need to identify what works for your specific needs. If you are not careful, you could end up with more hair loss if the unit is attached improperly. The hair restoration technician will consult with you about the best unit based on the type of hair loss you have.
Hair transplantation using Follicular Unit Extraction with NeoGraft
NeoGraft is a new automated hair transplant system, “which facilitates the harvesting of follicles during a Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE”> hair transplant, dramatically improving the accuracy and speed over previously used manual extraction instruments.”
What is Follicular Unit Extraction or FUE?
Baumanmedical says it is a “minimally invasive hair transplantation. Follicular Unit Extraction with NeoGraft leaves no strip scar, no linear scar. The most exciting thing about Follicular Unit Extraction (FUE”> is what it enables us to do in the donor area with people who wear very short hair. For many people, having a linear scar is not desirable. So this surgical technique gives us another option for extracting or harvesting the permanent donor follicles from the scalp. With FUE, we are able to extract single Follicular Units (that means groupings of 1, 2, 3, and sometimes, 4 hair follicles”> individually from the donor area without a scalpel. This also means the patient will not require any stitches and there is absolutely no linear scar.”
A donor area is located either at the back or side of the scalp where hair follicles are removed to be used for the hair transplant. These donor areas on the scalp are not affected by hormones that cause male or female pattern hair loss and continue to grow permanently.
Is it beneficial to use the FUE method instead of traditional strip method or linear harvesting?
Radiantskinnyc says, “one of the major drawbacks to the traditional strip method procedure is the incision is sutured together leaving a noticeable linear scar. The scar may stretch or enlarge over time to overcome the tension of the scalp created by cutting a strip and suturing the scalp together. It is well-accepted that FUE transplants can heal faster and more comfortably than linear-harvest techniques in which the physician uses a scalpel and removes a strip of scalp requiring stitches and a 6-week recovery time.”
Herbal treatments
Do herbal treatments really work to restore hair? The only way to know is to try and see for yourself. I recommend talking to your doctor before trying any new remedy. Remember, a treatment that will work for someone else may not work for you the same way.
Green tea
According to Livestrong, The Department of Otolaryngology at Charles R. Drew University of Medicine and Science conducted a study to examine the effects of green tea on rodents in relation to hair loss. The researchers followed the mice for six months before drawing conclusions. The results showed that mice that had hair loss and were given green tea to drink showed regrowth of the hair while the ones given plain water did not.
Livestrong says, “green tea may not be a cure for baldness or a guarantee of hair growth, but the antioxidants in the beverage may be helpful. Consult with a health care professional about the possible benefits of consuming green tea or using it topically to grow hair. Be sure to mention any medications you are taking, as green tea could interfere with some prescription drugs, like blood thinners.”
Topical treatments
Topical treatments can also help restore your hair. They have to be used daily and depending on the type of hair loss you have, may have to be used forever. Minoxidil can be used to reverse hair thinning caused by androgenetic alopecia. It is applied to the scalp once a day if you use 5% or twice a day when you use 2% minoxidil.
Redensyl can be used as an alternative to minoxidil. Some people who have used minoxidil have experienced headaches, dry scalp, flaky scalp, and itching. Redensyl is gentler on the scalp and is more appealing to people who want to use a “drug free” treatment to restore their hair. Redensyl, according to induchem, works by “targeting stem cells and human fibroblasts from the dermal papilla to improve hair growth while reducing hair loss.” Karrie Fonte, VP of Education for éprouvage told us why Redensyl is a key ingredient in their Restorative Scalp Serum, “originally used in eyelash and eyebrow growth serums, Redensyl is gentle enough for use around the eyes and it’s perfect for the scalp as it has no harsh side effects. It works by nourishing the scalp and creating the best environment to help keep the hair follicle in the anagen (growing”> phase longer, increasing the lifespan of hair follicles. More time growing equals less time resting (catagen”> and less time falling (telegen”> therefore reducing the appearance of up to 17% less hair fall and promote the appearance of up to 214% thicker, fuller and more hair.”
Light therapy
Low level laser hair therapy can be used to restore thinning. This type of light therapy is cold and does not cut or bruise the skin. Light produces energy to the cells of the hair follicle, which activates sluggish hair follicles. This therapy can be used to help with androgenetic alopecia.
Washing your hair while wearing protective styles is important, because it creates a healthy environment for hair growth and minimizes the chances of you getting a scalp disorder such as dandruff, dryness, and scalp infections.
Which protective style should you wear?
The best protective styles I recommend for allowing you to cleanse the scalp properly are styles that leave your scalp exposed. This includes
- cornrows
- two-strand twists
- flat twists
- box braids
- Senegalese twists
- Havana twists
Talk to your stylist
You should discuss all cleansing and maintenance needs of your protective style with the stylist who created it. If you created the style at home by yourself, you have to research the best cleansing practices based on your hair care needs, technique used, and the overall style.Which cleanser should you use?
Cleanse
If you are looking for a quick way to cleanse your scalp while it is in a protective style or if you are in between shampoos, you can use Moisture Clenz by Taliah Waajid. Moisture Clenz is formulated with peppermint oil to soothe and cool the skin when it feels tight, itchy, or irritated. Peppermint oil has antiseptic and antifungal properties, which aid in preventing bacterial and fungal infections. Think of Moisture Clenz as a dry shampoo you can use to easily cleanse your scalp. I recommend spraying the Moisture Clenz onto your scalp and using a cotton ball to gently remove oil, dirt, and dead skin cells off of the scalp.
Tone
Another way to keep your scalp clean with protective styles is to use Philip Kingsley’s Scalp Toner. This product is designed to gently remove oil and protect the scalp from harmful bacteria that encourages flaking. Philip Kingsley Scalp Toner has witch hazel, which acts as a very mild astringent. Menthol cools and invigorates the scalp while piroctone olamine combats yeast and bacteria. To use this toner, towel dry excess water from your hair and scalp and use the nozzle attached to the bottle to apply the toner to the scalp. Leave the product in and use it whenever your scalp feels irritated or dry.
Moisturize
If you are looking for a product that can moisturize your scalp and contains ingredients that invigorate and help the scalp feel clean, try Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier Therapeutic. The glycerin in this product helps moisturize the scalp, the eucalyptus oil helps reduces dandruff and itchiness, and aloe vera soothes and calms the skin. You can use Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier Therapeutic 2-3 times a week as a leave-in treatment for your scalp. Simply spray the mist on your scalp and protective hairstyle.What if you have dandruff or a scalp disorder?
If you suffer from severe dandruff or another scalp disorder, try a protective style that does not require adding hair or leaving a style in for more than one week. Wigs are a perfect option for people with chronic dandruff, because you can take the wig off and shampoo your hair and scalp thoroughly. Make sure to clean wigs and clip-in extensions regularly, so that bacteria and yeast are not being transferred back to your scalp when you put your wig back on.
Sometimes product buildup can be mistaken for dandruff, because when products flake off the hair and scalp, it looks similar to flakes that you get when you have a scalp disorder. There are some products that cause the scalp to flake and that is because there is an ingredient in the product that triggers dandruff.
Sensitivities to ingredients vary, and what will cause the scalp to flake for some people may not be the same for others. If your scalp has scales, itches, and feels tight, this is an indication of dandruff. Hot tools such as flatirons, hooded hair dryers, and blow-dryers can encourage dry scalp and peeling.
How can you tell the difference?
One way to tell that you have product buildup and not dandruff is to look closely at the color and size of the flakes.
When you have dandruff…
The color of the flakes may be yellow and the flakes are different shapes and irregular in size. If you have been scratching your scalp, you may see some dried blood attached to the fallen skin cells, which can cause the scalp to feel tender.
When you have product buildup…
The flakes tend to be a similar color to the product used and the flakes from the product stick to the hair instead of falling on the shoulders like dandruff.
How to deal with product buildup
Product buildup not only causes the scalp to itch and peel, but it can also stop your conditioners from moisturizing your hair properly. It is important to use a clarifying shampoo that is gentle on your curls and can remove excess product from the hair and scalp. If not, your hair will lack moisture, shine, and tangle easily.I recommend Malibu C Un-Do-Goo Shampoo, because it is sulfate free, safely removes dandruff buildup, and will not leave your feeling hair dry. This shampoo has no parabens, gluten, or sodium chloride (salt”> added. You can use a clarifying shampoo two times a month in between co-washing.
How to treat dandruff
If you suffer with dry scalp or dandruff, I suggest using a clarifying shampoo one to two times weekly and staying away from co-washing (cleansing with conditioner”>. You should always shampoo two times on wash day. Lather and rinse with the first shampoo application. The second shampoo needs to sit on the hair and scalp for two minutes, which helps to remove the remaining product off the hair and scalp.
Dry scalp, often confused with dandruff, is a common problem that affects many people. The terms are mistakenly used interchangeably to describe shared symptoms, but there’s a difference between these two scalp disorders.
What is dry scalp?
Dry scalp causes skin to feel tight. You’ll also notice that skin will have a white, silvery gray color, feel tender, and itch. When you scratch a dry scalp, you may see skin that has peeled or flaked off your scalp.
Dry scalp is caused when the pH of sebum, the scalp’s natural oil, is disrupted. Sebum is responsible for keeping proper moisture balance on the top layer of the scalp. It shields the skin from bacterial and fungal infections. This is why it is important to use shampoos that have a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5, the same pH range as sebum, and that cleanse without removing too much moisture from the scalp. I recommend Wild Naturals Eczema & Psoriasis Shampoo. It contains cocamidalpropyl betaine, a gentle cleanser that won’t strip your hair, and organic aloe barbadensis gel, which helps sooth the scalp and reduce inflammation.
What is dandruff?
Dandruff occurs when the skin flakes; this can be mild, moderate, or severe. Although the causes of dandruff are unknown, several theories suggest that dandruff may be caused by too much Malassezia globose, or yeast, living on the scalp. Malassezia globose lives on the scalp normally but may cause flakes for some people if it lives on the skin in abundance.
Dry scalp and dandruff can exist on the scalp together and it can be difficult to determine if you have one or both.
Don’t be alarmed if you see some dandruff when you shampoo, comb, or brush your hair. The scalp naturally sheds hardened layers of skin off the epidermis, the top layer of the skin. This process is called desquamation and is normal. However, diet, nutrition, hormones, stress, allergies and autoimmune issues can affect the normal process of desquamation, causing flakes to shed fast and in excess. Infrequent shampooing may also be a factor.
So, what’s the difference?
Think of dry scalp as something you can feel occurring on the scalp, while dandruff is what you see because flakes are falling off the scalp. With dry scalp you may feel the need to scratch your scalp. Your scalp may feel sore from scratching and may bleed if you scratch your scalp excessively. If hair loss or bleeding takes place as a result of scratching, you may need to see a dermatologist or trichologist to help the problem.
If you feel that you are experiencing dry scalp, you can try to massage your scalp before you shampoo with this jojoba oil scalp treatment.
Jojoba oil is similar to the scalp’s sebum. It penetrates the skin and doesn’t leave a greasy feeling on the scalp. It also helps loosen up flakes, which can then be removed once you shampoo your hair. You can add a few drops of chamomile essential oil to the jojoba oil, which will help relax the scalp, while soothing and healing dry, irritated skin. A few drops of tea tree oil can be added to the mix to combat itch and reduce fungal and bacterial infection.
What scalp treatment have you used for your dry scalp? How did these products work?
Ringworm of the scalp, also known as tinea capitis, is an infection caused by fungi. The type of fungi that causes tinea capitis is mold, which multiplies on keratin. Fungi that cause problems on the skin in animals and humans are called dermatophytes. The two types of dermatophytes that are of concern when dealing with tinea capitis are microsporum and trichophyton. Microsporum organisms can be passed on from animal to person while trichophyton organisms pass on person to person.
Who can get tinea capitis?
According to healthline.com, “anyone can develop ringworm. However, the infection is very common among children and people who own pet cats. You may be more likely to develop dermatophytosis (ringworm”> if you come into contact with the fungi while you’re wet or if you have minor skin injuries or abrasions. Using a public shower or public pool areas may also expose you to the infective fungi. If you’re often barefoot, you may develop ringworm of the feet. Those who often share items such as hairbrushes or unwashed clothing also have an increased risk of developing the infection.”
Types of infections that cause tinea capitis
- Endothrix infections are caused by microsporum fungi and invade the outer layer of the hair. With endothrix, you may experience itching, patches of scales on the scalp, and soreness of the scalp. When the infection escalates to the second stage, there may be patches of hair breakage with little black dotes inside the circular patch which is short stiff hair caused by the hair breakage.
- Ecotothrix infections attack the inner layer of the hair called the cortex. This causes hair breakage and damage and the type of fungi that causes ecotothrix infections are trichophyton. The hair breaks off easily with ecotothrix and leaves behind white stubble with in the ringworm patch. Within the patch they may be thin scales, they do not stick to the scalp. The scales might cover the short broken off hairs within the patch.
- Favus is a superficial dermatophyte infection usually caused by T schoenleinii and characterized by scutula. In most patients, favus is a severe form of tinea capitis, according to Medscape.
What does favus look like?
Derm Net says “Favus is characterised by yellow cup-shaped crusts (scutula”> that group together in patches like a piece of honeycomb, hence the name favus (Latin for “honeycomb””>. Each crust encircles a strand of hair, which pierces the centre and pokes out.”
“There appears to be 3 stages of the disease according to its severity.
- Stage 1: area around the hair follicles on the scalp becomes red and inflamed. Hair remains intact.
- Stage 2: yellow cup-shaped crusts (scutula”> form and hair starts to fall out.
- Stage 3: at least one third of the scalp is affected and there is extensive hair loss, atrophy and scarring.
The scutula form dense plaques that often harbor secondary bacterial infection. Removal of the plaques leaves a red, swollen moist base. A mousy odor is often present.”
How to treat tinea capitis
Ringworm can only be treated by a doctor. Extreme precaution should be taken when dealing with tinea capitis to make sure the infection does not spread to others. Healthline.com says, “Your doctor may prescribe various medications, depending on the severity of your ringworm infection. Ketoconazole is a prescription strength cream that is often used to treat fungal infections. Over-the-counter medications and skin creams may be recommended for use as well. Over-the-counter products may contain clotrimazole, miconazole, or other related ingredients.”
You can also use 2.5% selenium sulphide shampoo to help reduce the spore production period. Treatments are given for 4 to 8 weeks, sometimes longer, to make sure the problem is solved.
What you can do at home?
Healthline points out that “in addition to prescription and over-the-counter medication, your doctor may recommend that you care for your infection at home by practicing some of the following behaviors, including:
- avoiding clothing that irritates the infected area
- washing bedding and clothes daily during an infection
- cleaning and drying your skin regularly”
“If you have been scratching your skin frequently due to the infection, you may also develop a staph or strep infection of the skin. Your doctor may prescribe antibiotics to treat this bacterial infection as you continue your treatment for the ringworm.”
This article is written by Sophia Emmanuel, a certified IAT trichologist and licensed cosmetologist.
In cosmetology school, a hairstylist learns what they need to know to pass the state board exam to obtain a license. They learn to practice cosmetology services safely with proper sanitation methods.
Cosmetologists learn chemistry, which helps them understand how to avoid hair breakage or causing burns on the skin when they use chemicals such as color, relaxers, and perms. Chemistry also helps them understand product knowledge and what the end result will be once a chemical is applied and rinsed off of the hair. These are just some of the things cosmetologists learn in school.
There are also some things that hairstylist learn through experience once they leave school and work in a salon and these are the things that are not taught in all cosmetology schools.
Learning When to Say No
In school, cosmetologists are taught that the whole point of a consultation is to find out what service the client wants, but it is just as important for the stylist to tell the client if the service can be done based on the client’s hair type, lifestyle, and the overall health of the hair.
Cosmetologist need to be taught in school when to say no and that it is ok to tell a client that a particular service will not be beneficial and explain why. Yes, it is ok to want to make the customer happy, but as a licensed professional your number one goal should be to maintain the health and integrity of the client’s hair.
Time Management
Today, clients take fewer trips to the beauty salon and will learn how to do their own hair just to avoid waiting hours in the salon to get their hair done. If a stylist has a schedule that does not require you to make an appointment and to walk in, you can expect to wait. However, if you have a scheduled time to get your hair done, there is no reason you as the client should have to wait hours to be serviced.
Cosmetology schools should stress the importance of proper time management and the essentials of booking appointments that avoid long waits. It is a skill that is very helpful in maintaining loyal clients that will recommend friends and family and allow clients to know that their time is respected.
How to Address Hair Loss or Scalp Problems
In cosmetology school hair loss and scalp problems such as dandruff, ringworm, and seborrheic dermatitis are briefly addressed.
When cosmetologist start working in a salon some of them may be uncomfortable to start the conversation with a client concerning their scalp problem because they do not know what caused the condition and may not want to be blamed.
If a hairstylist is trained to address these problems in school, it can help the client get the help she needs quickly or the hairstylist can simply direct her to a dermatologist or another doctor that can help. Learning trichology in beauty school can help hairstylists prevent further damage to the hair and scalp.
Are you a licensed cosmetologist? What do you wish you learned in school?
Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist.
PICTURED: 20PEARLSNCURLS
Why wear finger coils?
Finger coils are easy to do and can be achieved on a variety of lengths. The style can last about a week or longer and can be transitioned into different styles by separating the coils, a French roll, or other pinup’s once the coils get older. Think of finger coils as a more defined coil you create using your fingers and a styling product, such as Jane Carters Natural Twist Out Foam, to give your style medium hold without the crunchy, dry feeling.
How to install finger coils
Step 1 – Start with cleansed hair
Start finger coils on freshly shampooed and conditioned hair. A good conditioner that holds in moisture for finger coiling is Mizani Moisturefusion. This conditioner gives amazing slip and helps the hair feel soft. Sit with this conditioner for 20 min. under a hooded dryer or steamer.
Step 2 – Detangle
Before I start the coils, I always comb the hair out completely to make sure the product I am using is evenly distributed and the hair is completely detangled. Make sure the ends of your hair are completely detangled so that your coils are not frizzy and your ends look smooth when the coil locks in place.
Step 3 – Section
I find it easier to start at the nape of the head. Create a one-inch diagonal part and section out a square that is the same length as the tip of your finger. Apply a good amount of product starting from the roots to the ends of your hair. Start creating the coil from the root simply twirling your hair around your pointer finger until your reach down to the ends. Follow this technique until the whole head is completely coiled.
Are your roots puffy?
In order to prevent your roots from puffing up when you are doing finger coils, you have to use small sections, especially if your hair is dense. You want to make sure your hair is wet and completely saturated with a product such as Design Essentials Twist and Set Lotion. You can also prevent your roots from puffing up by making sure you use your finger to smooth your roots down before you start coiling your hair.
Step 4 – Dry and set
Sit under a hooded dryer to let the coils dry and set for about one hour.
How to keep your coils smooth overnight
Finger coils can be maintained by wearing a satin bonnet at night. I recommend sealing the hair with a carrier oil such as jojoba oil or sweet almond oil after the coils have dried. Sealing the coils with a carrier oil adds shine and moisturizes the hair and scalp. You can prevent your coils from feeling dry by twirling a little bit of Miss Jessie’s Curly Butter Cream 3 days after you created your coils. This product is great for hydrating coils before bed and helps seal in moisture that will last all week.
How to keep your coils moisturized
Applying a hydrator at night will also help redefine any coil that needs to be refreshed or that have lost shape. Use this time to feel for any coils that are puffy or dry and quickly create a new coil. You can hydrate your coils one to two times during the week using this technique.
Other product options to hydrate finger coils are
- Mizani True Textures Curl Define Pudding
- Madam C.J Walker Beauty Culture Jamaican Black Castor and Murumuru Oils Defining Butter Crème
How to pull out coils
A benefit of finger coils is the transformation from coils, which are more structured, to a voluminous hairstyle that can get bigger as the coils get older. You control how much volume your hair has based on how much you separate each individual coil. When pulling out coils you can use Jane Carter Nourish and Shine, which helps give your hair high shine and moisturizes coils. When opening up coils or twist outs, always use a product with a butter consistency because it will prevent dryness and keep the ends from tangling.
I shy away from using gel to finger coil, because I find most gels flake off the hair once the coils are separated.
How do you prevent your finger coils from puffing up at the roots?
Affirm MoisturRight Hair Repair Mask
I love the Affirm MoisturRight Hair Repair Mask. One of the benefits is the amazing slip you get while detangling. This mask is formulated with argan oil, pequi oil, and buriti oil, which moisturize your hair and leave it feeling soft to the touch. The mask has keratin, which temporarily fills in the gaps along the hair shaft reducing breakage. For optimal results, apply this mask on to your hair after you cleanse and leave it on for 30 min. Remember to use a hooded dryer or steamer while processing your mask for deeper penetration.
Affirm MoisturRight Leave- In Detangler
The Affirm MoisturRight Leave- In Detangler can be used to enhance curls that need a moisture fix throughout the week in between cleansing. This leave-in has a creamy consistency, which can help soften dry, brittle curly ends that get tangled, especially if you frequently wear your hair in a wash and go hair style. This detangler is lightweight and leaves the hair with amazing shine.
Affirm StyleRight Foam Wrap Lotion
Affirm StyleRight Foam Wrap Lotion has the ability to add moisture with light hold for rod sets or twist-outs. I like this foam for clients that like their curly styles to have volume and movement. This wrap lotion allows curls to be manipulated without the product flaking off the hair.
Affirm StyleRight Laminate Spray
If you decide to use the Affirm StyleRight Wrap Lotion to style your hair, you can spray a little of the Affirm StyleRight Laminate Spray to add shine. If you use hot tools to style your hair, this spray can be used as a thermal protectant as well. With this product, try using a little bit because using too much can weigh your style down.
Affirm StyleRight ProGrowth Oil
You can try the Affirm StyleRight ProGrowth Oil to moisturize your hair and scalp and reduce hair loss caused by Dihydrotestosterone (DHT”>. The Affirm StyleRight ProGrowth Oil has pumpkin seed oil, which fights dandruff. Use this oil in areas of the scalp that feel dry or tight.
If I have a client that has to clarify her hair, I recommend the MoisturRight Clarifying Shampoo. It is sulfate free and will not strip your curls. This shampoo cleanses away dirt and leaves the hair clean and prepares the hair for the Affirm MoisturRight Hair Repair Mask.
Affirm StyleRight Light Hairdress Cream
Affirm StyleRight Light Hairdress Cream can be used as a thermal protectant when you want to blow-dry or flat iron your hair. The trick is to apply this hair dress to wet hair using a pea size amount to make sure your straight style is bouncy and not weighed down by too much product. You should still use a heat protectant serum before using a flat iron for added protection. Try spraying a little bit of the Affirm StyleRight Laminate Spray into the palm of your ends and distributing it throughout your hair, proceed to flat iron.
Have you tried MoisturRight or StyleRight products? How did you like the products for your hair?
Joico offers a new line of products for curly hair called Joico Curl. These products help reduce frizz, repair hair, and enhance curl definition.
Joico Curl Cleansing Shampoo
The Joico Curl Cleansing Shampoo is sulfate-free and uses a surfactant called cocamidopropyl betaine to gently cleanse without stripping moisture from the hair. Cocamidopropyl betaine is made from coconut oil and softens the hair as it washes way impurities. Apply the shampoo to wet hair, massage into your hair and scalp gently, rinse the shampoo out thoroughly, and apply the Joico Curl Nourished Conditioner. I like this shampoo because it makes the hair feel clean after rinsing it out.
Joico Curl Nourished Conditioner
The Joico conditioner works best on hair Type 2 wavy and Type 3 curly hair. It has great slip for detangling and can be used as a leave-in conditioner. I recommend leaving a little bit of the conditioner in your hair if you are going to use a styler that has holding properties. This technique will help your curls to have a soft touchable hold with less dryness. The conditioner consists of avocado oil, babassu oil, and camelina oil to help put moisture back into the hair. Apply a generous amount of the conditioner starting from the ends working your way up to the roots. Use a wide tooth comb or a Denman paddle brush to comb the conditioner through the hair. Leave on for 1- 5 min. before rinsing or leave the conditioner in if your hair needs more moisture. This conditioner is weightless, so there is no need to worry about the product feeling too heavy on your hair.
Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk
After you condition your hair, you can use the Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk. This is one of my favorite products in the collection because it really defines curls without any hold. You will get a soft bouncy curl that is elongated. The key is to saturate your hair with enough of the milk starting from the ends and working up towards the roots. Don’t be afraid to use a generous amount because this product dries fast and is weightless. The Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk balances the pH of the hair and seals in moisture. The pH of human hair is 4.5 to 5.5 and the pH of the The Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk is 3.5 to 4.5, which keeps the cuticle closed tightly. If you like curl definition with no crunch, then the Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk is right for you.
Joico Curl Refreshed Reanimating Mist
When your curls need to be refreshed throughout the week in between shampoos, you can use the Joico Curl Refreshed Reanimating Mist. This mist helps reactivate product in your hair and revive your curls. You can use it as needed and your curls will not feel greasy.
Joico Curl Defining Contouring Foam
If you like products that offer hold but are tender on the hair, you will like both stylers from the Joico Curl product line. I use the Joico Curl Defining Contouring Foam – Wax for wet sets or twist outs. This product comes out like a foam but feels more like a softening wax that can be used to tame unruly curls or flyaways. This product does not dry crunchy but holds styles in place. It offers great shine and does not flake.
Joico Curl Controlling Anti – Frizz Styler
The Curl Controlling Anti – Frizz Styler is a cream and weighs the hair down just enough to reduce frizz. I also use it to tame hairs that I need to lay down around the hair line.
Have you tried the Joico Curl products? How did the products make your hair feel?
Using products like Mizani Thermasmooth or Joico Smooth Cure can address some of the problems with wearing your natural hair straight. These products are designed to soften your hair making it easier and quicker to detangle, cut down on your blow-dry time, reduce frizz, and protect your hair from heat in each step of the process.
I would recommend the Mizani Thermasmooth line for hair Types 3c through 4c, because the thermal protectants are heavy and can weigh other hair types down. To use this line at home follow these steps.
Step 1
Use an ample amount of shampoo and massage it into your wet hair. Make sure to lather and rinse the shampoo out thoroughly. Shampoo your hair two times and follow with the Thermasmooth Conditioner. The surfactant in this shampoo is sodium laureth sulfate, so if you are a curly girl who does not like using sodium laureth sulfate on your hair, then try Joico Smooth Cure line instead.
Step 2
Apply Mizani Thermasmooth Conditioner in small sections of your hair from the roots to the ends of your hair. Make sure to saturate the conditioner on your hair and use a wide tooth comb or a Denman Brush to detangle your hair. Leave the conditioner on for 5 minutes. Rinse and proceed to step three.
This conditioner has behentrimonium methosulfate, which provides super slip for detangling your hair and Mizani’s C3 smoothing complex. Ceramides reinforce the cuticle of the hair, create elasticity, and protect hair from heat damage. Coconut oil conditions the hair and cationic polymers help repel humidity.
Step 3
Part your hair in 4 sections. Use a pea size amount and evenly distribute the Mizani Thermasmooth Smooth Guard Smoothing Serum throughout your hair. A little goes a long way. Sit under a hooded dryer for 15 to 20 min. allowing 80% of your hair to dry before you begin your blow out.
Step 4
Blow each section at a time using a paddle brush or a comb attachment. After you blow-dry each section use the Mizani Thermasmooth Shine Extend Anti-Humidity Spritz to add shine, resist humidity, and add very light hold to keep the hair straight. Section your hair in 4 parts. Spray this product in your hand and then apply it to each of the four sections. Proceed to flat iron your hair. I recommend using the Croc Infrared Flat Iron.
The Croc Infrared Flat Iron has one titanium plate and one ceramic plate for the ultimate smoothing. This flat iron has super flat plates that allow you to easily smooth out your roots without burning your scalp. The Croc Infrared Flat Iron will not give you tight curls. It is specifically for straightening. For curling after smoothing I recommend using FHI Heat Platform Plus.
Joico Smooth Cure provides the same results as the Mizani Thermasmooth but is a lighter on the hair and works well on hair Type 2 and 3.
Step 1
Use the Joico Smooth Cure Sulfate Free Shampoo twice to gently remove buildup and to prepare the hair for the Joico Smooth Cure Conditioner.
Step 2
After you thoroughly rinse the shampoo apply a good amount of the Joico Smooth Cure Conditioner, which will provide weightless shine. This conditioner is formulated with amodimethicone, which is a silicone that can prevent damage when using high heat to style the hair. Brazilian nut oil and tucuma butter condition and soften curls.
Step 3
Never blow dry or flat iron your hair without using a heat protectant first. Part your hair in 4 sections, spraying each section with the Joico Smooth Cure Thermal Styling Protectant. This protectant locks in all the benefits of the conditioner, moisturizes, and shields your hair from breakage with the use of hydrolyzed keratin. After you apply this spray to your hair proceed to blow dry and flat iron.
The secret to getting your natural hair really smooth while flat ironing is to part small slices about a half an inch thick while flat ironing and make sure your hair is thoroughly detangled from root to ends. A fresh trim always helps straighter styles look better and last longer. Mizani Thermasmooth and Joico Smooth Cure temporarily straighten your hair and should not be confused with other types of smoothing treatments that straighten the hair for longer periods of time. Mizani Thermasmooth or Joico Smooth Cure will last until your next shampoo and your hair will revert to the original texture.
What smoothing products have you tried at home? How did they work on your hair?
Do you think you need to use products based on the porosity level of your hair? Porosity is defined as how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Chemically treated or thermal styled hair is highly porous, which means that the cuticle of the hair has openings or gaps that allow too much moisture into the hair, which can cause frizzing and tangling. High porosity hair can lose moisture quickly, making your hair feel dry, brittle, and prone to breakage.
SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Masque
Using products with ingredients designed to seal, strengthen, and help maintain a proper balance of moisture is best for high porosity hair. If you are looking for these three components in a hair mask, try the SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture Seal Masque.
In the salon, I tried this mask on a client with Type 3c hair. She has permanent hair color and frequently blow-dries and flat irons her hair. The SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Masque strengthens, provides great slip, and leaves the hair feeling soft to the touch. The SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture Seal Masque has hemp seed oil to strengthen the cuticle and prevent moisture loss and mongongo oil to seal moisture and protect the hair while heat styling. The product has hydrolyzed soy protein, which has the ability to balance protein and moisture in the hair.
SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Finishing Elixir
The SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture Seal Finishing Elixir works well to give wash and go styles, twist outs, braid outs, and protective styles a boost of shine throughout the week. You can also use this product to seal in moisturizers or leave-in conditioners. It is a heavy so I would not recommend this product if you are wearing your hair blown out or flat ironed. If you want to try it on your hair while it is straight, I recommend spraying a small amount in the palm of your hands, rub your hands together to dilute some of the oil and then apply the oil to the mid shaft and ends of your hair. This oil has ingredients that truly add moisture to high porosity hair.
- Safflower seed oil is used to nourish and hydrate your hair.
- Macadamia seed oil helps reduce frizz and tangles. It adds lightweight shine and helps the hair feel soft.
SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Styling Gel
The Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Styling Gel is a styler that provides great curl definition and should be used if you want a little hold with your styles. This gel dries fast but you have to be careful not to use too much because it will flake. This product spreads nicely throughout the hair, which can help you not to apply too much. I used the gel on Type 4a hair to do a twist out. My client had curl definition and her twists were elongated. I let her twist dry under a hooded dryer for 45 minutes until it was completely dry, which helps the hair to set in an elongated state.
If you suffer from dryness, I would not use the gel from this collection. Try Shea Moisture’s Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie style your hair and retain moisture instead.Have you tried any of the Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal products by SheaMoisture? What are your favorite products?
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The new Mizani True Textures product line offers weightless moisture and curl definition without the crunch. This line is formulated with coconut, olive, and marula oils.
- Coconut oil penetrates into the hair shaft and helps the hair retain moisture.
- Marula oil adds moisture to the hair and scalp without weighing the hair down or leaving a greasing feeling on the hair.
- Olive oil can be used to soften dry hair and reduce frizz.
Intense Moisture Replenish Treatment
The Intense Moisture Replenish Treatment is paraben and silicone free. One of the main ingredients in this product is sunflower seed oil, which is a lightweight carrier oil that acts as an emollient for your hair and scalp. It penetrates into the hair shaft and helps retain moisture. Sunflower oil also helps reduce frizz and can help your hair be more manageable. Use this treatment weekly after you shampoo or cleanse. This mask offers great slip and helps detangle coils, curls, and waves. If your hair is dry, I would recommend using a steamer, hooded dryer, or heat cap for additional moisture.
Mizani True Textures Curl Enhancing Lotion
The Curl Enhancing Lotion is designed for all hair types. It has more hold than the Curl Define Pudding but less hold than the Twist and Coil Jelly. It can be used to achieve wash and go styles or other wet sets. I like the curl definition and shine the hair has when this product is applied. Your hair will feel hydrated the next day with no crunchy feeling. This product will work well for you if you just did the big chop and you have about 2-3 inches of new growth that needs curl definition. It has enough hold to activate your curls and dries quickly once applied.
Mizani True Textures Twist and Coil Jelly
Use the Twist and Coil Jelly for Type 4, coily hair. This product can be used for twist outs, wash and go styles, braid outs, flexi rod or perm rod sets. I like the consistency of this jelly because it is not sticky. It reduces frizz, defines your curly style, and will leave your hair soft. You will be able to manipulate your style at home without the product flaking and your hair will have a nice shine.
Mizani True Textures Curl Define Pudding
The Curl Define Pudding offers the most hydration with very little hold. If your hair is on the drier side, I recommend the Curl Define Pudding to define your coils with finger coils or two-strand twists. An added bonus is that you can reapply it throughout the week and your hair will feel moisturized but not greasy. This product dries fast and will not flake.
Mizani True Textures Style Refresher Milk
The Style Refresher Milk is a spray that can be used to freshen up your natural hair without hold and no frizz. I recommend this spray for moisturize your two-strand twist and finger coils on second and third day.
Have you tried the new Mizani True Textures line? Which products would you recommend?
Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist. As a hairstylist, Sophia realized that she had to have a thorough understanding of the hair and scalp because many women complained of hair loss. She decided to become a certified trichologist after reading Barry Fletcher’s book titled, Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair? She enjoys helping people get to the root of their hair loss and hair breakage problems.
If I had to describe Madam C.J. Walker using one word it would be innovative. In 1906, she created her own line of products to help address problems of the hair and scalp for black women. According to A’Lelia Bundles, Madam Walker’s great-great granddaughter and biographer, “The Vegetable Shampoo and Wonderful Hair Grower were revolutionary at the time because they addressed problems such as dandruff and scalp infections during an era when most Americans washed their hair infrequently because they did not have indoor plumbing. As a result many women were going bald. That was the issue Madam Walker was trying to address.”
The Wonderful Hair Grower was a heavy petrolatum-based ointment with sulphur, which helped cure infections, dandruff and scalp disease. Bundles says, “The Vegetable Shampoo was a natural product and an improvement over harsher lye-based soaps. Madam Walker used the best science available to her at the time. Of course a century later, we have the benefit of new science and research that better address the needs for conditioning and moisturizing.”
Today her legacy continues with her reformulated product line called Madam C.J. Walker Beauty Culture. Madam C.J. Walker Beauty Culture consists of four different collections and is formulated with high quality natural ingredients, which can be used on a variety of hair textures.
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Dream Come True Collection
The Dream Come True Collection will help nourish and condition the hair and scalp. The Wonderful Scalp Exfoliator is a pre-shampoo scalp treatment that gently and effectively removes flakes and buildup. The first time I used this product I noticed how easily it absorbed. One of the main ingredients in this product is coconut oil, which has molecules that are small enough to evaporate into the skin and moisturize the scalp. Salicylic acid is an essential property of the Wonderful Scalp Exfoliator, because it helps remove dandruff and dead skin cells. It also has glycerin, which helps to soften flakes and retain the scalp’s moisture. I like this product because it is lightweight and not too oily, which allows it to be used on any hair type. I fell in love with the Wonderful Deep Conditioning Masque the first time I used it because it provided great slip on my client’s 3c, curly hair. This masque moisturized her hair without weighing it down and left her hair feeling soft. This masque works without the use of heat from a hooded dryer or steamer, which is an added bonus for people who do not have time to process their conditioners with heat. I love the smell and it made my client’s hair shiny.
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Brassica Seed & Shea Oil Collection
If you want to wear your hair smooth and use a blow-dryer or flat iron, try the Brassica Seed and Shea Oils Silkening Blow Out Crème. Brassica seed oil will provide heat protection without building up on the hair. Shea oil is used to moisturize and condition the hair. This blow-dry crème will not weigh your hair down. The oils evaporate into the hair creating smooth manageable hair that is easy to blow-dry or flat iron. Try the Brassica Seed and Shea Oils Collection to prepare and protect your hair when using hot tools.
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Jamaican Black Castor Oil & Murumuru Oil Collection
Are you looking for a crème that can help elongate your curls or coils and provide long lasting moisture? Try the Jamaican Castor Oil and Murumuru Oil Defining Butter Crème. Murumuru oil makes hair more manageable and soft. Jamaican black castor oil moisturizes and revitalizes your hair and scalp. The Jamaican Black Castor Oil and Murumuru Oil collection works great for you if you have coils or curls. I used the Defining Butter Crème on a client with 4a, coily hair. I noticed that the product moisturized and gave my clients twist out definition as well. Her twist where elongated and she told me she did not feel the need to re-hydrate her hair until three days later. She also said that the product did not flake. If you have tight curls or coils that feel dry, I would recommend the Defining Butter Crème.
Scent and Shine Coconut Oil
The Scent and Shine Coconut Oil is part of the Coconut and Moringa Oil Collection, which is designed to tame frizz and can be used on curly and wavy hair. The Scent and Shine Coconut Oil can be used to add shine to your hair and moisture before you shampoo. This is also great to cocktail with the Wonderful Deep Conditioning Masque for a more intense treatment.
Let’s take a moment to admire how beautiful this photograph is!
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Have you tried any of Madam C.J. Walker’s Beauty Culture Products? What was your experience?
Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist. As a hairstylist, Sophia realized that she had to have a thorough understanding of the hair and scalp because many women complained of hair loss. She decided to become a certified trichologist after reading Barry Fletcher’s book titled, Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair? She enjoys helping people get to the root of their hair loss and hair breakage problems.
Have you ever questioned how hair straightening treatments formulated with and without formaldehyde derivatives work to smooth out textured hair? If you are considering getting a formaldehyde-free treatment, I would recommend the Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment or the Avlon Texture Release.
How do you decide, which one of these treatments is the best option for your hair? First, start off with a consultation with a hairstylist that is experienced with the use of either one of these products.
Benefits of Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing Treatment
- Formulated with amino acids, which are molecularly small enough to penetrate into the hair to strengthen the hair
- Prevents textured hair from swelling
- Helps straight styles to last longer and prevents frizz
- Gives you the versatility to wear textured and straight styles without compromising hair health
- Can be used by transitioning from relaxed to natural and will prevent breakage during the transitioning process
- Made with silk protein to condition and help with hair repair during the service
- Your hair does not need to be rinsed out after the smoothing treatment is complete if you are wearing a straight style
The Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment takes approximately an hour and a half depending on the length and density of your hair. For your first time getting a smoothing treatment give yourself more time just to make sure you get the results you are looking for. With continued use of the treatment, the processing time should be quicker because your hair will be more manageable. I recommend the Design Essentials STS Express Treatment for people who want to take a gentler approach to straightening their hair.
What if I want curl elongation rather than straight hair?
The Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing Treatment has two strengths to choose from. If you want your natural hair to have more elongation and would like to leave the salon with a textured style, you would go for the STS Express Smoothing Mousse Gentle Smooth. Your hair will still need to be flat ironed during the smoothing process but depending on the amount of curl elongation you want, you may only need one pass with the flat iron with a heat setting from 300 degrees to 400 degrees. After your hair is flat ironed, your stylist will re-wet your hair and add styling products, so that you can do a wash and go or another natural hairstyle.
What if I don’t want to flat iron?
If you desire curl elongation but you do not want a flat iron used in your hair, you have the option of loosening your curls with the use of a blow-dryer during the smoothing process. Your stylist will follow all the steps of the Avlon Texture Release Treatment. The main difference is that your hair will be blow-dried, rinsed, and the hairstyling products will be added for your textured hairstyle. Similarly, with the STS EXPRESS, the stylist may simply rewet the hair by using a water bottle or at the bowl after the blow drying process which is step 3, seal and style, and proceed to style using products from our natural line. The blow dryer serves as the heat activator in this case.
Both treatments allow flexibility for the amount of texture you desire. Your stylist can adjust the heat setting with the flat iron and blow-dryer. The amount of passes used on the hair with the flat iron will also determine how much curl elongation you get. The more passes with the flat iron on your hair, the more smoothness you get. The less passes you get on your hair with the flat iron, the less elongation you get.
Benefits of the Avlon Texture Release
Avlon Texture Release has all the benefits of the Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment with a three exceptions.
- Your straight style will be elongated more with the Avlon Texture Release because your hair stylist is allowed to make multiple passes with the flat iron for ultimate smoothness and a steamer or hooded dryer is used to help activate the Avlon Texture Release Lotion. Your stylist can use 450 degrees or lower to smooth out your hair.
- Avlon Texture Release was designed with a shampoo that caters to dry scalp. The sulfate-free Avlon Texture Release Nourishing Cleansing Shampoo gently and thoroughly cleanses the scalp and hair. This shampoo is formulated with hibiscus, which reduces scalp redness, dandruff, and balances the pH of the scalp.
How do these smoothing treatments work and what are the ingredients?
It is important that you know that both of these treatments have ingredients that are activated by heat. For example, blow-dryers, flat irons, hair dryers, or steamers. The type of heat used for each treatment is different depending on which product you choose and should be discussed with your stylist before using the treatments. Remember that the temperature of the heat used can be adjusted.
The Avlon Texture Release is formulated with amino acids and glycolic acid. Glycolic acid molecules are small enough to penetrate into the hairs cortical layer to help reduce breakage. Glycolic acid allows your hair to withstand higher temperatures of heat, and creates stronger stands of hair by filling in cracks along the hair shaft. This service can last you two months.
If you want to wear your hair straight on the same day of the Avlon Texture Release, your hair may feel a little weighed down. You will have to wait three days before you can shampoo, or put your hair up in a ponytail using a clip or other hair accessory. After the three day period you can shampoo and style your hair and your hair will not feel weighed down. You can use the Kera Kare line of products for straight hair and the Kera Kare Natural Textures for textured hairstyles.
The Design Essentials Texture Express STS Smoothing treatment has glyoxyloyl carbocysteine, glyoxyloyl, keratin amino acids, and hydrolyzed protein that go into the hair and allows cysteine, the main amino acid found in hair, to bond to the hair fibers. This process helps to keep the hair elongated and strengthened when heat is applied. You can use the STS Express Cleansing Sulfate Free Shampoo and the Design Essentials Almond Butter Express Instant Moisturizing Conditioner to maintain the smoothing treatment at home. With the Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment there is no wait time to shampoo your hair after the service.
Have you ever tried a smoothing treatment? What was your experience?
Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist. As a hairstylist, Sophia realized that she had to have a thorough understanding of the hair and scalp because many women complained of hair loss. She decided to become a certified trichologist after reading Barry Fletcher’s book titled, Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair? She enjoys helping people get to the root of their hair loss and hair breakage problems.
Have you ever purchased a conditioner that was highly recommended and when you tried it at home it fell flat on everything it promised? It hurts even more when the conditioner was expensive and you feel like you did not get your monies worth.
Before you purchase a new conditioner you need to pay close attention to the ingredients and think about how much time you have to allow the conditioner to process, how you would like your hair to feel after the conditioner is rinsed out, what type of style you want to achieve. Here is a guide to follow before you purchase your next conditioner.
They should be smoothing
If you are looking for a conditioner to use when you want to wear your textured hair straight, you need to look for ingredients that will prevent heat damage and moisturize your hair as well. Good alcohols such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are known to moisturize and condition the hair. Amodimethicone will help prevent damage from hot tools, add shine, and not cause buildup. Cyclomethicone, which allows the conditioner to spread on the hair easily, softens the hair without weighing it down and helps other ingredients of the conditioner to penetrate into the hair. Smoothing conditioners with these ingredients are:
They should provide slip
If you need a conditioner that combats tangles and supplies moisture that last a few days, look for ingredients such as behentrimonium methosulfate, which is a conditioning agent that provides hair conditioners with effective detangling properties and allows the hair to have elasticity. Glycerin acts as a humectant and moisturizer in conditioners and jojoba oil and shea butter helps to soften and seal in moisture. Conditioners that contain these ingredients are:
They should penetrate the hair without heat
- For curly hair, conditioners penetrate and adsorb better when you use heat. If you do not have time to use a hooded dryer, steamer, or electric treatment cap to process your conditioner, try a conditioner like Aquage Biomega Intensive Conditioner. This conditioner has coconut oil, which is known to absorb quickly into the hair fibers to provide ultra-hydration and shine. Mango seed butter provides an excellent source of omega-3 and omega-6 provides elasticity and softens the cuticle for silkier hair.
- Joico Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm has butylene glycol and sorbitol, which provide slip and prevent moisture loss.
- You can also use Joico Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm and Aquage Biomega Intensive Conditioner for hairstyles needing a strong hold styler, which will help prevent dehydration of your hair.
What ingredients do you look for in your conditioner? How do they improve the health of your hair?
There are a variety of allergic reactions from certain ingredients in beauty products. Some symptoms of these reactions include burning, itching of the skin, rash, hives, and redness at the site of the problem.
According to Vanessa Ngan from dermnetnz.org, “The groups of allergens that appear to most frequently cause cosmetic allergy are fragrances, preservatives, and paraphenylenediamine (PPD”> found in hair dyes.”
Fragrances
Vanessa Ngan says, “There are more than 5,000 different fragrances used in cosmetics and skin care products. Fragrance is present in most types of cosmetics including perfumes, shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, facial cosmetics, and deodorants.” Fragrance can cause a reaction called contact dermatitis. Contact dermatitis may take place if you have an allergy to an ingredient or if your skin experiences damage from an irritant in a product you are using. How can you tell the difference between an allergic contact dermatitis and irritant dermatitis? First, you should see a board certified dermatologist to diagnose and treat any rash or skin problem.
Irritant dermatitis does not involve the immune system. Although a rash is present on the skin, it could have been triggered by something you touched recently that has stripped the oils and moisture barrier from your skin.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
An ingredient that could cause irritation for some people is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate found in shampoos. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a detergent and aids the foaming of shampoos. With irritant dermatitis you may experience itching, scaling, redness and blistering of the skin.
Do shampoos irritate you?
If you experience irritation after using shampoo, start paying attention to the ingredients. You may need to use a shampoo free of sodium lauryl sulfate, but just because you use a sulfate free shampoo does not mean that there are no other ingredients in the shampoo that may trigger irritant dermatitis. According to Dr. Mercola, other names for sodium lauryl sulfate are:
- Sodium dodecyl sulfate
- A13-00356
- Sulfuric acid, monododecyl ester, sodium salt
- Akyposal SDS
- Sodium salt sulfuric acid
- Aquarex ME
- Monododecyl ester sodium salt sulfuric acid
- Aquarex methyl
What is allergic dermatitis?
Allergic dermatitis takes place when you touch something and your immune system overreacts to the problem with an allergic reaction like a rash, hives, and itching. WebMD.com says, “You won’t get a rash the first time your skin touches something you are allergic to but that touch sensitizes your skin, and you could have a reaction the next time.”
Contact dermatitis can be caused by poison ivy, poison oak, all types of hair color, hair straighteners, topical skin medications, Nickel, latex and soaps.
Preservatives
Once a product that you use contains water, it has to have a preservative to prevent growth of bacteria and mold. Two examples of common preservatives found in some products are formaldehyde and methylisothiazolinone.
Formaldehyde is used in a variety of products and cosmetics. Some cosmetic products that include formaldehyde are shampoos, hair smoothing treatments; makeup, lotions, nail polish, antiperspirants, and mouth wash. According Vanessa Ngan, “Formaldehyde is released in the smoke from burning wood, coal, charcoal, cigarettes, natural gas, and kerosene. The reaction you may have from formaldehyde depends on how you are exposed to it. Exposure to formaldehyde gas may cause burning sensations in the eye, nose and throat, skin rashes, tightness of the chest, wheezing, fatigue and headaches.”
“Methylisothiazolinone was initially used occupationally, in paints, adhesive/glues and cleaners etc, as a mixture with methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI”>. Since 2005, it has been widely used in cosmetics and household products, such as moist wipes, shampoos, cleaners and liquid laundry products,” according to Dr. Lynne Gordon.
Paraphenylenediamine (PPD”>
Paraphenylenediamine (PPD”> is found in hair dyes and is responsible for giving permanent color a natural appearance. PPD provides long lasting results, and allows the hair to be treated with other chemicals such as perms and relaxers without fading.
Although it is not common, there have been cases where women have had problems breathing, felt nauseas, experienced vomiting, and rash with swelling after receiving a permanent hair color service. There are reports of death after receiving permanent dye with PPD, which is problem that is a more serious allergic reaction called anaphylaxis.
The American Academy of Allergy Asthma & Immunology defines naphylaxis as “a serious, life-threatening allergic reaction.” The most common anaphylactic reactions are to foods, insect stings, medications and latex. If you think you are allergic to ingredients in your cosmetics you can see a dermatologist who can run test to let you know what you are allergic to.
Have you had an allergic reaction to ingredients in your hair or skin care products? What was your experience?
