Search Results: Sophia Emmanuel

How to Create Your Smoothest Finger Coils
woman with natural hair finger coils
PICTURED: 20PEARLSNCURLS

Why wear finger coils?

Finger coils are easy to do and can be achieved on a variety of lengths.  The style can last about a week or longer and can be transitioned into different styles by separating the coils, a French roll, or other pinup’s once the coils get older. Think of finger coils as a more defined coil you create using your fingers and a styling product, such as Jane Carters Natural Twist Out Foam, to give your style medium hold without the crunchy, dry feeling.

How to install finger coils

Step 1 – Start with cleansed hair

Start finger coils on freshly shampooed and conditioned hair. A good conditioner that holds in moisture for finger coiling is Mizani Moisturefusion. This conditioner gives amazing slip and helps the hair feel soft.  Sit with this conditioner for 20 min. under a hooded dryer or steamer.

Step 2 – Detangle

Before I start the coils, I always comb the hair out completely to make sure the product I am using is evenly distributed and the hair is completely detangled. Make sure the ends of your hair are completely detangled so that your coils are not frizzy and your ends look smooth when the coil locks in place.

Step 3 – Section

I find it easier to start at the nape of the head.  Create a one-inch diagonal part and section out a square that is the same length as the tip of your finger. Apply a good amount of product starting from the roots to the ends of your hair. Start creating the coil from the root simply twirling your hair around your pointer finger until your reach down to the ends. Follow this technique until the whole head is completely coiled.

Are your roots puffy?

In order to prevent your roots from puffing up when you are doing finger coils, you have to use small sections, especially if your hair is dense. You want to make sure your hair is wet and completely saturated with a product such as Design Essentials Twist and Set Lotion. You can also prevent your roots from puffing up by making sure you use your finger to smooth your roots down before you start coiling your hair.

Step 4 – Dry and set

Sit under a hooded dryer to let the coils dry and set for about one hour.

How to keep your coils smooth overnight

Finger coils can be maintained by wearing a satin bonnet at night.  I recommend sealing the hair with a carrier oil such as jojoba oil or sweet almond oil after the coils have dried.  Sealing the coils with a carrier oil adds shine and moisturizes the hair and scalp.  You can prevent your coils from feeling dry by twirling a little bit of Miss Jessie’s Curly Butter Cream 3 days after you created your coils.  This product is great for hydrating coils before bed and helps seal in moisture that will last all week.

How to keep your coils moisturized

Applying a hydrator at night will also help redefine any coil that needs to be refreshed or that have lost shape. Use this time to feel for any coils that are puffy or dry and quickly create a new coil. You can hydrate your coils one to two times during the week using this technique.

Other product options to hydrate finger coils are

How to pull out coils

A benefit of finger coils is the transformation from coils, which are more structured, to a voluminous hairstyle that can get bigger as the coils get older. You control how much volume your hair has based on how much you separate each individual coil. When pulling out coils you can use Jane Carter Nourish and Shine, which helps give your hair high shine and moisturizes coils. When opening up coils or twist outs, always use a product with a butter consistency because it will prevent dryness and keep the ends from tangling.

I shy away from using gel to finger coil, because I find most gels flake off the hair once the coils are separated.

How do you prevent your finger coils from puffing up at the roots?

Why I Love Affirm Products – Even Though They’re Not Made for Natural Hair
Some of my favorite products come from the Affirm MoisturRight and StyleRight product lines. Although these products are not marketed for use on natural hair, they can be helpful because of their ingredients.

Affirm MoisturRight Hair Repair Mask

I love the Affirm MoisturRight Hair Repair Mask. One of the benefits is the amazing slip you get while detangling. This mask is formulated with argan oil, pequi oil, and buriti oil, which moisturize your hair and leave it feeling soft to the touch. The mask has keratin, which temporarily fills in the gaps along the hair shaft reducing breakage. For optimal results, apply this mask on to your hair after you cleanse and leave it on for 30 min. Remember to use a hooded dryer or steamer while processing your mask for deeper penetration.

Affirm MoisturRight Leave- In Detangler

The Affirm MoisturRight Leave- In Detangler can be used to enhance curls that need a moisture fix throughout the week in between cleansing. This leave-in has a creamy consistency, which can help soften dry, brittle curly ends that get tangled, especially if you frequently wear your hair in a wash and go hair style. This detangler is lightweight and leaves the hair with amazing shine.

Affirm StyleRight Foam Wrap Lotion

Affirm StyleRight Foam Wrap Lotion has the ability to add moisture with light hold for rod sets or twist-outs. I like this foam for clients that like their curly styles to have volume and movement. This wrap lotion allows curls to be manipulated without the product flaking off the hair.

Affirm StyleRight Laminate Spray

If you decide to use the Affirm StyleRight Wrap Lotion to style your hair, you can spray a little of the Affirm StyleRight Laminate Spray to add shine. If you use hot tools to style your hair, this spray can be used as a thermal protectant as well. With this product, try using a little bit because using too much can weigh your style down.

Affirm StyleRight ProGrowth Oil

You can try the Affirm StyleRight ProGrowth Oil to moisturize your hair and scalp and reduce hair loss caused by Dihydrotestosterone (DHT”>. The Affirm StyleRight ProGrowth Oil has pumpkin seed oil, which fights dandruff. Use this oil in areas of the scalp that feel dry or tight.

If I have a client that has to clarify her hair, I recommend the MoisturRight Clarifying Shampoo. It is sulfate free and will not strip your curls. This shampoo cleanses away dirt and leaves the hair clean and prepares the hair for the Affirm MoisturRight Hair Repair Mask.

Affirm StyleRight Light Hairdress Cream

Affirm StyleRight Light Hairdress Cream can be used as a thermal protectant when you want to blow-dry or flat iron your hair. The trick is to apply this hair dress to wet hair using a pea size amount to make sure your straight style is bouncy and not weighed down by too much product. You should still use a heat protectant serum before using a flat iron for added protection. Try spraying a little bit of the Affirm StyleRight Laminate Spray into the palm of your ends and distributing it throughout your hair, proceed to flat iron.

Have you tried MoisturRight or StyleRight products? How did you like the products for your hair? 

The Whole Joico Curl Range: Reviewed

Joico offers a new line of products for curly hair called Joico Curl.  These products help reduce frizz, repair hair, and enhance curl definition.

Joico Curl Cleansing Shampoo

The Joico Curl Cleansing Shampoo is sulfate-free and uses a surfactant called cocamidopropyl betaine to gently cleanse without stripping moisture from the hair. Cocamidopropyl betaine is made from coconut oil and softens the hair as it washes way impurities. Apply the shampoo to wet hair, massage into your hair and scalp gently, rinse the shampoo out thoroughly, and apply the Joico Curl Nourished Conditioner. I like this shampoo because it makes the hair feel clean after rinsing it out.

Joico Curl Nourished Conditioner

The Joico conditioner works best on hair Type 2 wavy and Type 3 curly hair.  It has great slip for detangling and can be used as a leave-in conditioner.  I recommend leaving a little bit of the conditioner in your hair if you are going to use a styler that has holding properties. This technique will help your curls to have a soft touchable hold with less dryness. The conditioner consists of avocado oil, babassu oil, and camelina  oil to help put moisture back into the hair. Apply a generous amount of the conditioner starting from the ends working your way up to the roots. Use a wide tooth comb or a Denman paddle brush to comb the conditioner through the hair. Leave on for 1- 5 min. before rinsing or leave the conditioner in if your hair needs more moisture. This conditioner is weightless, so there is no need to worry about the product feeling too heavy on your hair.

Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk

After you condition your hair, you can use the Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk.  This is one of my favorite products in the collection because it really defines curls without any hold.  You will get a soft bouncy curl that is elongated. The key is to saturate your hair with enough of the milk starting from the ends and working up towards the roots. Don’t be afraid to use a generous amount because this product dries fast and is weightless. The Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk balances the pH of the hair and seals in moisture. The pH of human hair is 4.5 to 5.5 and the pH of the The Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk is 3.5 to 4.5, which keeps the cuticle closed tightly.  If you like curl definition with no crunch, then the Joico Curl Perfected Curling Milk is right for you.

Joico Curl Refreshed Reanimating Mist

When your curls need to be refreshed throughout the week in between shampoos, you can use the Joico Curl Refreshed Reanimating Mist. This mist helps reactivate product in your hair and revive your curls. You can use it as needed and your curls will not feel greasy.

Joico Curl Defining Contouring Foam

If you like products that offer hold but are tender on the hair, you will like both stylers from the Joico Curl product line.  I use the Joico Curl Defining Contouring Foam – Wax for wet sets or twist outs. This product comes out like a foam but feels more like a softening wax that can be used to tame unruly curls or flyaways. This product does not dry crunchy but holds styles in place. It offers great shine and does not flake.

Joico Curl Controlling Anti – Frizz Styler

The Curl Controlling Anti – Frizz Styler is a cream and weighs the hair down just enough to reduce frizz.  I also use it to tame hairs that I need to lay down around the hair line.

Have you tried the Joico Curl products?  How did the products make your hair feel?

Stylist Reviews: Mizani Thermasmooth & Joico Smooth Cure

Have you ever spent hours straightening your hair only to have it curl back up the minute you go outside on a hot summer or rainy day? You also may not like to straighten your hair because you are afraid of heat damage and the possibility of having to cut your hair to get rid of the heat damaged ends.     

Using products like Mizani Thermasmooth or Joico Smooth Cure can address some of the problems with wearing your natural hair straight. These products are designed to soften your hair making it easier and quicker to detangle, cut down on your blow-dry time, reduce frizz, and protect your hair from heat in each step of the process.

I would recommend the Mizani Thermasmooth line for hair Types 3c through 4c, because the thermal protectants are heavy and can weigh other hair types down. To use this line at home follow these steps.

Step 1

Use an ample amount of shampoo and massage it into your wet hair. Make sure to lather and rinse the shampoo out thoroughly. Shampoo your hair two times and follow with the Thermasmooth Conditioner. The surfactant in this shampoo is sodium laureth sulfate, so if you are a curly girl who does not like using sodium laureth sulfate on your hair, then try Joico Smooth Cure line instead.

Step 2

Apply Mizani Thermasmooth Conditioner in small sections of your hair from the roots to the ends of your hair.  Make sure to saturate the conditioner on your hair and use a wide tooth comb or a Denman Brush to detangle your hair.  Leave the conditioner on for 5 minutes. Rinse and proceed to step three.

This conditioner has behentrimonium methosulfate, which provides super slip for detangling your hair and Mizani’s C3 smoothing complex. Ceramides reinforce the cuticle of the hair, create elasticity, and protect hair from heat damage. Coconut oil conditions the hair and cationic polymers help repel humidity.

Step 3

Part your hair in 4 sections. Use a pea size amount and evenly distribute the Mizani Thermasmooth Smooth Guard Smoothing Serum throughout your hair. A little goes a long way.  Sit under a hooded dryer for 15 to 20 min. allowing 80% of your hair to dry before you begin your blow out.

Step 4

Blow each section at a time using a paddle brush or a comb attachment.  After you blow-dry each section use the Mizani Thermasmooth Shine Extend Anti-Humidity Spritz to add shine, resist humidity, and add very light hold to keep the hair straight. Section your hair in 4 parts.  Spray this product in your hand and then apply it to each of the four sections.  Proceed to flat iron your hair. I recommend using the Croc Infrared Flat Iron.

The Croc Infrared Flat Iron has one titanium plate and one ceramic plate for the ultimate smoothing. This flat iron has super flat plates that allow you to easily smooth out your roots without burning your scalp. The Croc Infrared Flat Iron will not give you tight curls. It is specifically for straightening. For curling after smoothing I recommend using FHI Heat Platform Plus.

Joico Smooth Cure provides the same results as the Mizani Thermasmooth but is a lighter on the hair and works well on hair Type 2 and 3.

Step 1

Use the Joico Smooth Cure Sulfate Free Shampoo twice to gently remove buildup and to prepare the hair for the Joico Smooth Cure Conditioner.

Step 2

After you thoroughly rinse the shampoo apply a good amount of the Joico Smooth Cure Conditioner, which will provide weightless shine. This conditioner is formulated with amodimethicone, which is a silicone that can prevent damage when using high heat to style the hair. Brazilian nut oil and tucuma butter condition and soften curls.

Step 3

Never blow dry or flat iron your hair without using a heat protectant first. Part your hair in 4 sections, spraying each section with the Joico Smooth Cure Thermal Styling Protectant. This protectant locks in all the benefits of the conditioner, moisturizes, and shields your hair from breakage with the use of hydrolyzed keratin. After you apply this spray to your hair proceed to blow dry and flat iron.

The secret to getting your natural hair really smooth while flat ironing is to part small slices about a half an inch thick while flat ironing and make sure your hair is thoroughly detangled from root to ends.  A fresh trim always helps straighter styles look better and last longer. Mizani Thermasmooth and Joico Smooth Cure temporarily straighten your hair and should not be confused with other types of smoothing treatments that straighten the hair for longer periods of time.  Mizani Thermasmooth or Joico Smooth Cure will last until your next shampoo and your hair will revert to the original texture.

What smoothing products have you tried at home?  How did they work on your hair?

A Stylist’s Review: SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Collection
Photo Courtesy of Akushika GoneNatural

Do you think you need to use products based on the porosity level of your hair? Porosity is defined as how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. Chemically treated or thermal styled hair is highly porous, which means that the cuticle of the hair has openings or gaps that allow too much moisture into the hair, which can cause frizzing and tangling. High porosity hair can lose moisture quickly, making your hair feel dry, brittle, and prone to breakage.

SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Masque

Using products with ingredients designed to seal, strengthen, and help maintain a proper balance of moisture is best for high porosity hair. If you are looking for these three components in a hair mask, try the SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture Seal Masque.

In the salon, I tried this mask on a client with Type 3c hair. She has permanent hair color and frequently blow-dries and flat irons her hair. The SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Masque strengthens, provides great slip, and leaves the hair feeling soft to the touch. The SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture Seal Masque has hemp seed oil to strengthen the cuticle and prevent moisture loss and mongongo oil to seal moisture and protect the hair while heat styling. The product has hydrolyzed soy protein, which has the ability to balance protein and moisture in the hair.

SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Finishing Elixir

The SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture Seal Finishing Elixir works well to give wash and go styles, twist outs, braid outs, and protective styles a boost of shine throughout the week. You can also use this product to seal in moisturizers or leave-in conditioners. It is a heavy so I would not recommend this product if you are wearing your hair blown out or flat ironed. If you want to try it on your hair while it is straight, I recommend spraying a small amount in the palm of your hands, rub your hands together to dilute some of the oil and then apply the oil to the mid shaft and ends of your hair.  This oil has ingredients that truly add moisture to high porosity hair.

  • Safflower seed oil is used to nourish and hydrate your hair.
  • Macadamia seed oil helps reduce frizz and tangles. It adds lightweight shine and helps the hair feel soft.

SheaMoisture Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Styling Gel

The Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal Styling Gel is a styler that provides great curl definition and should be used if you want a little hold with your styles. This gel dries fast but you have to be careful not to use too much because it will flake. This product spreads nicely throughout the hair, which can help you not to apply too much. I used the gel on Type 4a hair to do a twist out. My client had curl definition and her twists were elongated. I let her twist dry under a hooded dryer for 45 minutes until it was completely dry, which helps the hair to set in an elongated state.

If you suffer from dryness, I would not use the gel from this collection. Try Shea Moisture’s Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie style your hair and retain moisture instead.  

Have you tried any of the Mongongo & Hemp Seed Oils High Porosity Moisture-Seal products by SheaMoisture? What are your favorite products?  

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A Stylist Reviews the Mizani True Textures Line

The new Mizani True Textures product line offers weightless moisture and curl definition without the crunch. This line is formulated with coconut, olive, and marula oils.

  • Coconut oil penetrates into the hair shaft and helps the hair retain moisture.
  • Marula oil adds moisture to the hair and scalp without weighing the hair down or leaving a greasing feeling on the hair.
  • Olive oil can be used to soften dry hair and reduce frizz.

Intense Moisture Replenish Treatment

The Intense Moisture Replenish Treatment is paraben and silicone free. One of the main ingredients in this product is sunflower seed oil, which is a lightweight carrier oil that acts as an emollient for your hair and scalp. It penetrates into the hair shaft and helps retain moisture. Sunflower oil also helps reduce frizz and can help your hair be more manageable. Use this treatment weekly after you shampoo or cleanse.  This mask offers great slip and helps detangle coils, curls, and waves. If your hair is dry, I would recommend using a steamer, hooded dryer, or heat cap for additional moisture.

Mizani True Textures Curl Enhancing Lotion

The Curl Enhancing Lotion is designed for all hair types. It has more hold than the Curl Define Pudding but less hold than the Twist and Coil Jelly. It can be used to achieve wash and go styles or other wet sets. I like the curl definition and shine the hair has when this product is applied. Your hair will feel hydrated the next day with no crunchy feeling. This product will work well for you if you just did the big chop and you have about 2-3 inches of new growth that needs curl definition. It has enough hold to activate your curls and dries quickly once applied.


Mizani True Textures Twist and Coil Jelly

Use the Twist and Coil Jelly for Type 4, coily hair. This product can be used for twist outs, wash and go styles, braid outs, flexi rod or perm rod sets. I like the consistency of this jelly because it is not sticky. It reduces frizz, defines your curly style, and will leave your hair soft. You will be able to manipulate your style at home without the product flaking and your hair will have a nice shine.

Mizani True Textures Curl Define Pudding

The Curl Define Pudding offers the most hydration with very little hold. If your hair is on the drier side, I recommend the Curl Define Pudding to define your coils with finger coils or two-strand twists. An added bonus is that you can reapply it throughout the week and your hair will feel moisturized but not greasy. This product dries fast and will not flake.

Mizani True Textures Style Refresher Milk

The Style Refresher Milk is a spray that can be used to freshen up your natural hair without hold and no frizz. I recommend this spray for moisturize your two-strand twist and finger coils on second and third day.

Have you tried the new Mizani True Textures line? Which products would you recommend?

Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist. As a hairstylist, Sophia realized that she had to have a thorough understanding of the hair and scalp because many women complained of hair loss. She decided to become a certified trichologist after reading Barry Fletcher’s book titled, Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair? She enjoys helping people get to the root of their hair loss and hair breakage problems. 





A Hairstylist’s Review of the New Madam C.J. Walker Beauty Culture

If I had to describe Madam C.J. Walker using one word it would be innovative. In 1906, she created her own line of products to help address problems of the hair and scalp for black women. According to A’Lelia Bundles, Madam Walker’s great-great granddaughter and biographer, “The Vegetable Shampoo and Wonderful Hair Grower were revolutionary at the time because they addressed problems such as dandruff and scalp infections during an era when most Americans washed their hair infrequently because they did not have indoor plumbing. As a result many women were going bald. That was the issue Madam Walker was trying to address.”

The Wonderful Hair Grower was a heavy petrolatum-based ointment with sulphur, which helped cure infections, dandruff and scalp disease. Bundles says, “The Vegetable Shampoo was a natural product and an improvement over harsher lye-based soaps. Madam Walker used the best science available to her at the time. Of course a century later, we have the benefit of new science and research that better address the needs for conditioning and  moisturizing.”

Today her legacy continues with her reformulated product line called Madam C.J. Walker Beauty Culture.  Madam C.J. Walker Beauty Culture consists of four different collections and is formulated with high quality natural ingredients, which can be used on a variety of hair textures.

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Dream Come True Collection

The Dream Come True Collection will help nourish and condition the hair and scalp. The Wonderful Scalp Exfoliator is a pre-shampoo scalp treatment that gently and effectively removes flakes and buildup. The first time I used this product I noticed how easily it absorbed. One of the main ingredients in this product is coconut oil, which has molecules that are small enough to evaporate into the skin and moisturize the scalp. Salicylic acid is an essential property of the Wonderful Scalp Exfoliator, because it helps remove dandruff and dead skin cells. It also has glycerin, which helps to soften flakes and retain the scalp’s moisture.  I like this product because it is lightweight and not too oily, which allows it to be used on any hair type. I fell in love with the Wonderful Deep Conditioning Masque the first time I used it because it provided great slip on my client’s 3c, curly hair. This masque moisturized her hair without weighing it down and left her hair feeling soft. This masque works without the use of heat from a hooded dryer or steamer, which is an added bonus for people who do not have time to process their conditioners with heat. I love the smell and it made my client’s hair shiny.

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Brassica Seed & Shea Oil Collection

If you want to wear your hair smooth and use a blow-dryer or flat iron, try the Brassica Seed and Shea Oils Silkening Blow Out Crème. Brassica seed oil will provide heat protection without building up on the hair. Shea oil is used to moisturize and condition the hair. This blow-dry crème will not weigh your hair down. The oils evaporate into the hair creating smooth manageable hair that is easy to blow-dry or flat iron. Try the Brassica Seed and Shea Oils Collection to prepare and protect your hair when using hot tools.

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Jamaican Black Castor Oil & Murumuru Oil Collection

Are you looking for a crème that can help elongate your curls or coils and provide long lasting moisture? Try the Jamaican Castor Oil and Murumuru Oil Defining Butter Crème. Murumuru oil makes hair more manageable and soft. Jamaican black castor oil moisturizes and revitalizes your hair and scalp. The Jamaican Black Castor Oil and Murumuru Oil collection works great for you if you have coils or curls. I used the Defining Butter Crème on a client with 4a, coily hair.  I noticed that the product moisturized and gave my clients twist out definition as well. Her twist where elongated and she told me she did not feel the need to re-hydrate her hair until three days later. She also said that the product did not flake. If you have tight curls or coils that feel dry, I would recommend the Defining Butter Crème.

Scent and Shine Coconut Oil

The Scent and Shine Coconut Oil is part of the Coconut and Moringa Oil Collection, which is designed to tame frizz and can be used on curly and wavy hair. The Scent and Shine Coconut Oil can be used to add shine to your hair and moisture before you shampoo. This is also great to cocktail with the Wonderful Deep Conditioning Masque for a more intense treatment.

Let’s take a moment to admire how beautiful this photograph is!

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Have you tried any of Madam C.J. Walker’s Beauty Culture Products?  What was your experience? 

Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist. As a hairstylist, Sophia realized that she had to have a thorough understanding of the hair and scalp because many women complained of hair loss. She decided to become a certified trichologist after reading Barry Fletcher’s book titled, Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair? She enjoys helping people get to the root of their hair loss and hair breakage problems. 

Salon Review: Design Essentials Smoothing System vs. Avlon Texture Release

Have you ever questioned how hair straightening treatments formulated with and without formaldehyde derivatives work to smooth out textured hair? If you are considering getting a formaldehyde-free treatment, I would recommend the Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment or the Avlon Texture Release.

How do you decide, which one of these treatments is the best option for your hair?  First, start off with a consultation with a hairstylist that is experienced with the use of either one of these products.

Benefits of Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing Treatment

  • Formulated with amino acids, which are molecularly small enough to penetrate into the hair to strengthen the hair
  • Prevents textured hair from swelling
  • Helps straight styles to last longer and prevents frizz
  • Gives you the versatility to wear textured and straight styles without compromising hair health
  • Can be used by transitioning from relaxed to natural and will prevent breakage during the transitioning process
  • Made with silk protein to condition and help with hair repair during the service
  • Your hair does not need to be rinsed out after the smoothing treatment is complete if you are wearing a straight style

The Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment takes approximately an hour and a half depending on the length and density of your hair. For your first time getting a smoothing treatment give yourself more time just to make sure you get the results you are looking for. With continued use of the treatment, the processing time should be quicker because your hair will be more manageable. I recommend the Design Essentials STS Express Treatment for people who want to take a gentler approach to straightening their hair.

What if I want curl elongation rather than straight hair?

The Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing Treatment has two strengths to choose from. If you want your natural hair to have more elongation and would like to leave the salon with a textured style, you would go for the STS Express Smoothing Mousse Gentle Smooth. Your hair will still need to be flat ironed during the smoothing process but depending on the amount of curl elongation you want, you may only need one pass with the flat iron with a heat setting from 300 degrees to 400 degrees. After your hair is flat ironed, your stylist will re-wet your hair and add styling products, so that you can do a wash and go or another natural hairstyle.

What if I don’t want to flat iron?

If you desire curl elongation but you do not want a flat iron used in your hair, you have the option of loosening your curls with the use of a blow-dryer during the smoothing process. Your stylist will follow all the steps of the Avlon Texture Release Treatment. The main difference is that your hair will be blow-dried, rinsed, and the hairstyling products will be added for your textured hairstyle. Similarly, with the STS EXPRESS, the stylist may simply rewet the hair by using a water bottle or at the bowl after the blow drying process which is step 3, seal and style, and proceed to style using products from our natural line. The blow dryer serves as the heat activator in this case.

Both treatments allow flexibility for the amount of texture you desire. Your stylist can adjust the heat setting with the flat iron and blow-dryer.  The amount of passes used on the hair with the flat iron will also determine how much curl elongation you get.  The more passes with the flat iron on your hair, the more smoothness you get.  The less passes you get on your hair with the flat iron, the less elongation you get.

Benefits of the Avlon Texture Release

Avlon Texture Release has all the benefits of the Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment with a three exceptions.

  1. Your straight style will be elongated more with the Avlon Texture Release because your hair stylist is allowed to make multiple passes with the flat iron for ultimate smoothness and a steamer or hooded dryer is used to help activate the Avlon Texture Release Lotion. Your stylist can use 450 degrees or lower to smooth out your hair.
  2. Avlon Texture Release was designed with a shampoo that caters to dry scalp. The sulfate-free Avlon Texture Release Nourishing Cleansing Shampoo gently and thoroughly cleanses the scalp and hair. This shampoo is formulated with hibiscus, which reduces scalp redness, dandruff, and balances the pH of the scalp.

How do these smoothing treatments work and what are the ingredients?

It is important that you know that both of these treatments have ingredients that are activated by heat. For example, blow-dryers, flat irons, hair dryers, or steamers.  The type of heat used for each treatment is different depending on which product you choose and should be discussed with your stylist before using the treatments. Remember that the temperature of the heat used can be adjusted.

The Avlon Texture Release is formulated with amino acids and glycolic acid. Glycolic acid molecules are small enough to penetrate into the hairs cortical layer to help reduce breakage. Glycolic acid allows your hair to withstand higher temperatures of heat, and creates stronger stands of hair by filling in cracks along the hair shaft. This service can last you two months.

If you want to wear your hair straight on the same day of the Avlon Texture Release, your hair may feel a little weighed down. You will have to wait three days before you can shampoo, or put your hair up in a ponytail using a clip or other hair accessory. After the three day period you can shampoo and style your hair and your hair will not feel weighed down. You can use the Kera Kare line of products for straight hair and the Kera Kare Natural Textures for textured hairstyles.

The Design Essentials Texture Express STS Smoothing treatment has glyoxyloyl carbocysteine, glyoxyloyl, keratin amino acids, and hydrolyzed protein that go into the hair and allows cysteine, the main amino acid found in hair, to bond to the hair fibers. This process helps to keep the hair elongated and strengthened when heat is applied. You can use the STS Express Cleansing Sulfate Free Shampoo and the Design Essentials Almond Butter Express Instant Moisturizing Conditioner to maintain the smoothing treatment at home. With the Design Essentials STS Express Smoothing treatment there is no wait time to shampoo your hair after the service.

Have you ever tried a smoothing treatment? What was your experience? 

Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist. As a hairstylist, Sophia realized that she had to have a thorough understanding of the hair and scalp because many women complained of hair loss. She decided to become a certified trichologist after reading Barry Fletcher’s book titled, Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair? She enjoys helping people get to the root of their hair loss and hair breakage problems. 

Do You Have a Cosmetic Allergy? These Are the 4 Most Common Culprits
Photo by Leonardo Patrizi — Getty Images

There are a variety of allergic reactions from certain ingredients in beauty products. Some symptoms of these reactions include burning, itching of the skin, rash, hives, and redness at the site of the problem.

According to Vanessa Ngan from dermnetnz.org, “The groups of allergens that appear to most frequently cause cosmetic allergy are fragrances, preservatives, and paraphenylenediamine (PPD”> found in hair dyes.”

Fragrances

Vanessa Ngan says, “There are more than 5,000 different fragrances used in cosmetics and skin care products.  Fragrance is present in most types of cosmetics including perfumes, shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, facial cosmetics, and deodorants.”  Fragrance can cause a reaction called contact dermatitis. Contact dermatitis may take place if you have an allergy to an ingredient or if your skin experiences damage from an irritant in a product you are using.  How can you tell the difference between an allergic contact dermatitis and irritant dermatitis? First, you should see a board certified dermatologist to diagnose and treat any rash or skin problem.

Irritant dermatitis does not involve the immune system. Although a rash is present on the skin, it could have been triggered by something you touched recently that has stripped the oils and moisture barrier from your skin.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

An ingredient that could cause irritation for some people is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate found in shampoos. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is a detergent and aids the foaming of shampoos.  With irritant dermatitis you may experience itching, scaling, redness and blistering of the skin.

Do shampoos irritate you?

If you experience irritation after using shampoo, start paying attention to the ingredients. You may need to use a shampoo free of sodium lauryl sulfate, but just because you use a sulfate free shampoo does not mean that there are no other ingredients in the shampoo that may trigger irritant dermatitis. According to Dr. Mercola, other names for sodium lauryl sulfate are:

  • Sodium dodecyl sulfate
  • A13-00356
  • Sulfuric acid, monododecyl ester, sodium salt
  • Akyposal SDS
  • Sodium salt sulfuric acid
  • Aquarex ME
  • Monododecyl ester sodium salt sulfuric acid
  • Aquarex methyl

What is allergic dermatitis?

Allergic dermatitis takes place when you touch something and your immune system overreacts to the problem with an allergic reaction like a rash, hives, and itching. WebMD.com says, “You won’t get a rash the first time your skin touches something you are allergic to but that touch sensitizes your skin, and you could have a reaction the next time.”

Contact dermatitis can be caused by poison ivy, poison oak, all types of hair color, hair straighteners, topical skin medications, Nickel, latex and soaps.

Preservatives

Once a product that you use contains water, it has to have a preservative to prevent growth of bacteria and mold.  Two examples of common preservatives found in some products are formaldehyde and methylisothiazolinone.

Formaldehyde is used in a variety of products and cosmetics.  Some cosmetic products that include formaldehyde are shampoos, hair smoothing treatments; makeup, lotions, nail polish, antiperspirants, and mouth wash. According Vanessa Ngan, “Formaldehyde is released in the smoke from burning wood, coal, charcoal, cigarettes, natural gas, and kerosene. The reaction you may have from formaldehyde depends on how you are exposed to it. Exposure to formaldehyde gas may cause burning sensations in the eye, nose and throat, skin rashes, tightness of the chest, wheezing, fatigue and headaches.”

“Methylisothiazolinone was initially used occupationally, in paints, adhesive/glues and cleaners etc, as a mixture with methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI”>. Since 2005, it has been widely used in cosmetics and household products, such as moist wipes, shampoos, cleaners and liquid laundry products,” according to Dr. Lynne Gordon.

Paraphenylenediamine (PPD”>

Paraphenylenediamine (PPD”> is found in hair dyes and is responsible for giving permanent color a natural appearance. PPD provides long lasting results, and allows the hair to be treated with other chemicals such as perms and relaxers without fading.

Although it is not common, there have been cases where women have had problems breathing, felt nauseas, experienced vomiting, and rash with swelling after receiving a permanent hair color service. There are reports of death after receiving permanent dye with PPD, which is problem that is a more serious allergic reaction called anaphylaxis.

The American Academy of Allergy Asthma & Immunology defines naphylaxis as “a serious, life-threatening allergic reaction.” The most common anaphylactic reactions are to foods, insect stings, medications and latex. If you think you are allergic to ingredients in your cosmetics you can see a dermatologist who can run test to let you know what you are allergic to.

Have you had an allergic reaction to ingredients in your hair or skin care products? What was your experience?

Did You Know Your Stylists Like These Products, Too?

Much has changed since 2001, and now we have an abundance of products that cater specifically to natural hair. Products for natural hair are no longer formulated for one type of hair texture. One product category that has evolved much is stylers for natural hair. Natural hair styling products changed for the best based on ingredients, moisturizing and nourishing properties, curl definition, adding shine, and volume. Textured hair is no longer looked upon as an ugly way to wear your hair. Curls, waves, and coils are admired. Many people cannot see themselves wearing their hair any other way.

For moisturizing

Licensed cosmetologist Tamika D. Wesley of Wesley Styles NYC  points out that she can turn to many different products to assist her with different types of hair textures. She says she can find products to aid with the tightest of curls to the loosest of waves. Having a variety of stylers available takes the guesswork out of styling. One of her favorite products comes from a company called Aestalance. She recommends their moisturizing products, especially their Balm Leave- in Conditioner because it detangles and is rich and creamy, leaving the hair soft, silky, and ready for styling. Tamika says using just a little bit of the balm gets the job done.

At the salon I use Jane Carter Solution Incredible Curls. This product is a lightweight curl definer that has the consistency of a lotion. It is formulated with shea butter and glycerin and can be used on wavy, curly, or coily hair textures. I tell clients to use this if they need to reapply the lotion throughout the week without getting any buildup on the hair.

One drugstore brand I use for my daughter’s hair is Pantene Pro-V Truly Relaxed Hair Oil Crème Moisturizer. Although it is marketed for relaxed hair, I use it to hydrate, braid, and twist my daughter’s hair. It has coconut oil and jojoba oil, which help to moisturize but not weigh down the hair. It also adds nice shine and does not flake with reapplication.

For hold

Beautician Monet Moon says, “I strongly believe product lines with natural ingredients are far more beneficial and create better results for natural hair. Recently I have been working with SheaMoisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl Frizz-Free Mousse. I love this mouse because it is lightweight and provided the control I need for my curly clients hair textures. I love to use Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray to make curls big voluminous. I always pack the hair with either a nice lotion or extra conditioner before I apply this product to help seal in moisture.”

Hairstylist Tamika recommends using the Wonder Curl Get Set Hair Jelly for wash and go styles.  She likes this gel because “it does not leave the hair hard and crunchy and it is a workable gel. You can design the hair and have a little room to manipulate your curls.”

Monet Moon recommends using the DevaCurl One Condition because it hydrates, removes the frizz from the hair, and prepares it for wash and goes. The DevaCurl Ultra Defining Gel will give medium hold and in my experience will not flake if you use it when the hair is dripping wet.

For a soft hold with a moisturized feel on the hair, I like SheaMoisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curling Gel Soufflé. I love this product for all types of twist outs. For flexi rod sets or perm rod sets, try Design Essentials Twist Natural Twist and Set Setting Lotion. This product smells great, add moisture, has a medium hold, and will not flake.

For sealing in moisture

Obliphica Sea Berry Hair Serum can be used to moisturize, protect the hair from heat, and smooth the cuticle. This oil is lightweight and instantly adds shine without weighing the hair down. Sea berry oil has phytosterols, which moisturize the hair and scalp and reduce fly-always. You can combine the Sea Berry Hair Serum with the Obliphica Sea Berry Curl Control. It adds a soft airy feel to the hair.

There is no question that stylers have improved over time for the better of the hair. Consumer are finally getting what they want from their hair products because some of them are formulating products by themselves or asking for healthier ingredients that get the job done from companies that manufacture hair products.

What has been your experience with the evolution of stylers?

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Can the Vitalize Hair System Give You Thicker, Fuller & Healthier Hair in 90 Days?
Photo Courtesy of Ambrosia Malbrough

Finding a solution to combat hair loss can be just as stressful as going through hair loss because there are numerous products available claiming to regrow hair.

Topical treatments for hair loss can be purchased over the counter and medicated treatments have to be prescribed by a doctor. Most of these treatments aim to retard androgenetic alopecia.

What is androgenetic alopecia?

Androgenetic alopecia is caused by having a genetic predisposition or sensitivity to androgens in the hair follicles. This type of thinning leads to hair loss in the crown, front, and temporal regions of the scalp.

I do not recommend trying to diagnose yourself with androgenetic alopecia but some signs that you will want observe are parts looking extremely wider than usual, sparse bangs, you can’t cover up the thin area by changing the direction of the part, and the temporal region of your scalp has receded. You may notice short, thin hairs in the front of your scalp. You can look at family members to see if they have hair loss that looks similar but they may be dealing with a separate problem so you would be taking a wild guess.

Androgenetic alopecia is one of the most common types of hair loss and never goes away. You can reduce the amount of hair loss by starting treatment as soon as you are diagnosed so that you can slow down the hair loss process. You will have to use a treatment for this type of hair loss forever.

What treatments are available?

Minoxidil is almost always recommended to reverse the effects of androgenetic alopecia, but people are looking for effective products with natural ingredients that reverse their hair loss instead.

Read more: Your Hair Loss Treatment’s Magical Ingredients Explained

Vitalize Hair is a three part system designed to combat androgenetic alopecia, reduce breakage, and moisturize the hair and scalp. Vitalize is the alternative to minoxidil for people who want a drug-free product, with healthy ingredients to restore hair loss. This product combats thinning from three different angles. The Vitalize Hair Skin and Nail Vitamin is a supplement for healthy hair and body, the Vitalize Follicle Stem Cell Serum activates the hair follicles stem cells to enter the hair growth phase, and the Vitalize Hair Treatment Oil moisturizes your hair and scalp.

How is Vitalize different from Minoxidil?

According to Eric Brown, founder of Vitalize Hair System, the Vitalize Follicle Stem Cell Serum “contains the active ingredient Redensyl; Women’s Rogaine contains the active ingredient Minoxidil.” Vitalize says Redensyl targets hair follicle stem cells to enter the “growth phase” of the hair cycle. This breakthrough in regenerative medicine is clinically proven to promote thicker, fuller more beautiful hair”.

How does Redensyl grow hair?

Redensyl contains two patented molecules called DHQG and EGCG2. DHQG is responsible for activating follicle stem cells to work efficiently and stay in the hair growth cycle longer.  This means that DHQG can prevent the hair from turning into thin, fine, miniaturized hair, and help the hair remain thick and strong. Simply put, DHQG is supposed to stop hair follicles from shrinking.  EGCG2 molecule reduces inflammation, which can help prevent hair loss. Vitalize Hair System does not contain alcohol, which can be drying to the scalp depending on the type of alcohol found in the topical treatment.

What are the side effects of Redensyl?

There are no known side effects from using products containing the active ingredient Redensyl. There are, however, common side effects from using Minoxidil include burning or irritation of the eye, itching, redness or irritation at the treated area, as well as unwanted hair growth elsewhere on the body. Severe allergic reactions include rash, hives, itching, difficulty breathing, tightness in the chest, or swelling of the mouth, face, lips, or tongue, chest pain, dizziness, fainting, tachycardia (rapid heartbeat”>, sudden and unexplained weight gain, or swelling of the hands and feet as well as temporary hair loss says Eric Brown.

What other ingredients in the Vitalize Hair System are beneficial to my hair and scalp?

Vitalize contains green tea which prevents hair loss and promotes hair growth, caviar extracts to moisturize and regenerate the scalp, silk amino acids which preserve the moisture of the hair and scalp and keratin which strengthens the hair and scalp.

Why should I use the 3-part system instead of just using the Follicle Stem Cell Serum?

Eric Brown explains, “in order to address hair thinning, hair loss while improving hair volume, texture and shine a customer will need to use all three products. Vitalize Hair System is a “root to tip” solution drawing from the highest quality ingredients. Using the whole system will give you the optimal results for hair growth and hair repair.

How long does it take to see results from the Vitalize Hair System?

Eric Brown says “we have received user testimonials that highlight visible results through consistent daily use as early as 2-3 weeks.

Will Vitalize affect my hairstyle in any way by wetting my hair and scalp?

No. This is a feature that makes Vitalize Hair superior to minoxidil. Use of the Vitalize Hair System does not affect a user’s hairstyle. In fact, both the Follicle Stem Cell Serum and the Hair and Scalp Treatment Oil are lightweight and fragrance-free. The Serum is massaged into the treatment area only while the Treatment Oil is applied to the scalp for moisture and to the hair for shine.

How often should I use the Vitalize Hair System?

To use the Follicle Stem Cell Serum you need to apply it directly to the scalp and massage into treatment areas once daily. The Hair & Scalp Treatment Oil should be applied to wet or dry hair for shine when needed. You can apply this same oil to the scalp for moisture as well. For the Hair, Skin and Nail Supplement, take two capsules daily with water on a full stomach.

Vitalize Hair System Review by Ambrosia Malbrough

Read more: What You Need to Know About Temporary and Permanent Hair Loss

Hair Color Without Damage? Brazilian Bond Builder vs. Olaplex
brazilian bond builder
Photo Courtesy of Brazilian Bond Builder

Bond realignment treatments are one of the newest types of professional in salon treatments being used to help prevent damage to the hair during color services.

For example, Olaplex is a bond realignment treatment that realigns the hairs disulphide bonds.  Disulphide bonds are the strongest bonds that make up the hair. They can only be broken by chemicals, heat from thermal irons, and over manipulating the hair in a way that causes wear and tear of the hairs cuticle. Olaplex realigns the disulphide bonds making the hair stronger and preventing breakage for any chemically treated hair from relaxers to perms and keratin treatments.

Read more: Olaplex: If You’re Coloring Your Hair, You’ll Want This Treatment

With bond realignment services hairstylist are able to constantly improve the strength of the hair and can now push the envelope with color techniques in ways that could have been damaging to the hair before.

There are a variety of bond realignment treatments available for hairstylist to use today. You can ask your stylist or hair colorist to recommend one of these treatments depending on your hair and what it needs.

Brazilian Blowout created b3 Brazilian Bond Builder, which realigns all three bonds that make up the hair. This includes the disulphide bonds, salt bonds, and hydrogen bonds, according to Alfredo Lewis, who is the global director of education of Brazilian Professionals.

Alfredo Lewis says: “Realigning all three bonds reduces damage to the cellular membrane complex. The cellular membrane complex is like an adhesive that keeps the layers of the cuticle of the hair stuck together. When the cellular membrane complex loses the “stickiness” it allows the hairs cortex to become exposed.  The cellular membrane complex can deteriorate from heat damage, chemical services or mechanical damage.  When the cortex is exposed our hair lacks shine, breaks off and splits easily.  When hair color is applied to our hair the cortex is affected and if the bonds that make up the cellular membrane complex are not realigned the hair is subject to damage.”

The b3 Brazilian Bond Builder is one step, which consists of the product being mixed into any color formula to prevent breakage during chemical services.  It works on strengthening the inner structure of the hair.

When the cellular membrane complex is realigned by b3 Brazilian Bond Builder your hair color will be more vibrant and the hair color will last longer because the cuticle is sealed so the pigment gets locked inside the hair.

Why would you get the b3 Brazilian Bond Builder instead of Olaplex?

According to hairstylist Tamara Scott of Mane Advocates Studio: “Since b3 doesn’t add to the processing time and is only one step it is a good add-on treatment for color that doesn’t lengthen the client’s visit. If the client’s hair is in good shape the b3 Brazilian Bond Builder should keep it there when lightening more than a couple of levels.”

Alfredo Lewis says, “B3 Brazilian Bond Builder is a great option for highlights because although it is recommended to bump up the developer to get desired color results, hairstylists do not see the need to bump up their developer because the b3 Brazilian Bond Builder is anhydrous, which means it does not contain water.”  This means that the product being used to color your hair will not be diluted by the b3 Brazilian Bond Builder.

Have you noticed any improvement in the health of the clients’ hair using Olaplex and b3 Brazilian Bond Builder?

Tamara of Mane Advocates Studio says “I see a drastic improvement when using Olaplex. This is a revolutionary product. The hair is left in better shape than before the chemical service. With prolonged use there is less breakage, fewer split ends, the hair feels stronger, the elasticity is improved and there are fewer flyways.  All textures from kinky to straight have a silkier feel when the strands are touched.”

What is the difference between the take home products for Olaplex and b3 Brazilian Bond Builder?

According to Tamara, “the only at home option for Olaplex is the Hair Perfector No.3. I have noticed less breakage and the overall integrity of the hair is improved with this system. This treatment can be used in conjunction with all types of chemical services.  Olaplex No.1 can even be added into the relaxer with some adjustments.  The No.3 for home use is pricey for a small amount of product and the cost can add up if you have a lot of hair.”

There is a b3 Brazilian Bond Builder Color Care Shampoo, Conditioner, and Reconstructor that is recommended to use at home to help realign bonds after color services, but in Alfredo Lewis’s opinion they are not all mandatory to use.

Have you had a bond realignment treatment after a color or chemical service? If so, which one did you try?

This is What Happens When You Scratch Your Scalp
Photo Courtesy of Natalie Live

Nothing feels better than scratching your scalp when you have an itch. You may have used your fingernails, a tail comb, hairpin, or bobby pin to get relief from an itchy scalp.  Although these methods seem harmless in the moment, using objects or your finger nails to scratch your scalp can cause flaking, cuts, bleeding, redness on the scalp, and increase the chance of getting an infection on the scalp.

Scalp Infections

Dr. Adebola Dele-Michael of RadiantSkin Dermatology and Laser says a person who has a scalp condition and scratches excessively can get a scalp infection from combs, brushes, towels that are contaminated with the infectious agent. For example, fungi causes ringworm and bacteria cause folliculitis among other infections.

Hair loss from scratching

Dr. Dele-Michael says itching may be triggered by inflammation, which can cause the scalp to be unhealthy and lead to hair loss.

What causes the need to scratch when you have a scalp condition?

Dr. Dele-Michael says inflammation and infection can cause immune cells in the scalp to release cytokines, which contribute to itchy scalp.

What are cytokines? According to Dr. Ananya Mandal, “Cytokines are cell signaling molecules that aid cell to cell communication in immune responses and stimulate the movement of cells towards sites of inflammation, infection and trauma”.

What is inflammation? Inflammation is how the body heals itself when there is a problem. Sometimes inflammation works for a long time and causes auto immune responses, and by mistake the immune system attacks healthy cells mistaking them as harmful. This explains why hair loss can occur because of inflammation.

Reducing the urge to scratch your scalp

Is there anything that can be done to reduce the urge to scratch? Dr. Dele-Michael says, “If you have itchy scalp, make an appointment to see a board certified dermatologist so they can treat the condition and reduce the risk of permanent hair loss.”  Get the proper diagnosis so that an appropriate treatment program can be created for your needs.

Can oils and creams moisturize the scalp?

One of the symptoms that people who have itchy scalp complain about is that their scalp feels tight and dry. There is always a question of whether it is ok to moisturize the scalp using oils or creams. According to Dr. Dele-Michael, “Oils and creams are generally good to moisturize the scalp. However, if you have a skin allergy to an ingredient in your hair care product, this may cause inflammation and itching. Fragrances and preservatives are common allergens in hair care products these can cause inflammation and itching in some patients.”

You can be allergic to ingredients from products that market themselves as “natural”. Do not assume that a product that is “all natural” is better for your hair and scalp. Plus, every brand has different standards of what “natural” means. You can find out what ingredients you are allergic to by seeing a board certified dermatologist.

When to see a dermatologist for your scalp condition

Dr. Dele-Michael recommends seeing a board certified dermatologist once a year for an annual checkup. In addition, if you should see a board certified dermatologist if your symptoms persist or worsen.

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Have you experienced an itchy scalp problem?  What did you do to help it? 

How to Get Rid of Scalp Flakes – Without Scratching

A common symptom of dandruff is an itchy scalp. Many people cannot control the urge to scratch their scalp because it helps them feel temporary relief and some people scratch their scalps in order to remove dandruff. Removing flakes from the scalp has to be done gently using the balls of your fingers and lightly massaging your scalp. You have to use products with ingredients that combat itch and help flakes peel off the hair and scalp easily.

One way to remove flakes without scratching is to soften flakes using a pre-shampoo method with oils. It is important to understand that oils should be applied to your scalp as a pre-shampoo treatment and that you should not be used to grease your scalp in between shampoos to reduce flakes and itch. When your scalp starts flaking and feeling itchy it is a sign that you need to shampoo again. If you don’t have time to shampoo right away, try an on the spot anti-itch treatment to soothe your scalp like Kera Care Dry & Itchy Scalp Anti-Dandruff Spot Itch Lotion. You can carry this product with you on the go to help you not scratch your scalp and use it as often as needed throughout the day.

Pre-shampoo treatments

Jane Carter Scalp Renew has peppermint oil to stimulate hair growth and soothe itching, tea tree oil for its antibacterial properties, and sweet orange oil to reduce inflammation. According to Organic Facts, sweet orange oil “can help people avoid both septic, fungal infections and tetanus as they inhibit microbial growth and disinfect the wounds.” Sweet orange oil is significant for those who scratch their scalps, leaving cuts or bruises on their scalp, which can cause infection. Apply Jane Carter Scalp Renew to your scalp and sit under a steamer, hooded dryer, heat cap, or use a plastic cap with a hot towel wrapped around your head for 20 min.

If you like to feel a scrubbing sensation on your scalp, try Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Hair and Scalp Treatment. Apply to your scalp in small sections and massage the product in for 3- 5 min. This product is relaxing and invigorates your scalp because it has micro beads that remove scalp buildup, combat itch, and soften flakes. It is formulated with tea tree oil, shea butter, and jojoba oil, which moisturize the scalp and rosemary oil to stimulate hair growth and reduce dandruff.

Scalp exfoliating

Exfoliating the scalp is another technique you can use to remove flakes easily. Your scalp is an extension of your face and should be treated with the same care. It is very important to remove buildup off of the scalp in a way that is gentle and maintains the normal pH of the scalp.

Your dandruff could be made worse by high alkaline shampoos. Your scalp may be flaking because of dandruff mixed with calcium buildup. The mineral calcium can buildup on our hair and scalp flake off, and resemble dandruff. You can use Malibu C Scalp Therapy, which removes calcium buildup. With the ingredient Disodium EDTA, which has chelating purposes that removes hard water buildup from the hair and scalp. Vitamin C in Malibu C Scalp Therapy helps with skin renewal and protecting skin cells from damage. Glucose is the first ingredient which helps to remove dead skin cells.

For a deep cleaning of the scalp try Scalpure. Scalpure is clay with burdock root extract created for your face and scalp that gently removes impurities without stripping too much of the skin’s natural oils. What is great about Scalpure is that you can use it as often as every other day.

Scalpure has manuka oil, which has higher anti-bacterial, anti-fungal properties than tea tree oil and is an anti-inflammatory, according to Manukaoil.com. All these components reduce the urge to scratch and create a healthy scalp environment.

Tone Your Scalp to Reduce Itching

To avoid scratching your scalp, try this DIY scalp toner that will reduce itching and sooth your scalp. Phillipkingsley.com states that you can “shake together an antibacterial mouthwash of your choice with an equal quantity of witch hazel. Wash your hair and towel dry it. Apply some of the mixture all over your scalp in 1-inch partings from ear to ear. Rub in lightly with your fingertips and leave on. Style and blow-dry your hair as usual.”

Use a Scalp Lotion after Shampooing To Sooth the Scalp

Rene Furterer Astera Leave in Soothing Freshness Serum can be used after shampooing your hair to calm down scalp irritation with ingredients such as mint and eucalyptus. Rene Furterer Astera Leave in Soothing Freshness Serum is formulated with the amino acid glycine, which reduces itch and vitamin B3, E, and F, which restore skin cells.

Pictured above: shower cap from Upper Canada Soap, Jane Carter Scalp Renew and Kera Care Dry & Itchy Scalp Anti-Dandruff Spot Itch Lotion.

Does Laser Hair Growth Therapy Work?
laser hair growth
Photo by ARICAN — Getty Images

If you are experiencing hair loss you are probably familiar with the vast amount of hair loss treatments out on the market claiming to regrow your hair. Some treatments can help restore hair loss while others have harmful side effects or ingredients that irritate the scalp causing dandruff, dry scalp, or allergic reactions. Is there such a treatment for hair loss that is drug free that actually regrows hair without all the harmful side effects?

Low level laser therapy has become popular in medical offices, hair restoration clinics, and hair salons to help promote hair growth for people experiencing hair loss, specifically for people experiencing androgenetic alopecia.

Read more: What You Need to Know About Temporary and Permanent Hair Loss

What is androgenetic alopecia?

Androgenetic alopecia is a progressive type of hair loss that affects the crown, front, hair line, and temporal areas of the scalp. Over time hair follicles produce fine, thin, light colored hair. These fine, light colored hairs are called villus hairs. They become thin because of a process called miniaturization.

During the miniaturization process normal, healthy hair is choked by dihydrotestosterone also known as DHT. DHT shortens the hair growth cycle creating thin textured hairs. Over time hair follicles affected by Dihydrotestosterone may close and the scalp becomes noticeable.

One of the benefits of low level laser light therapy is to reverse miniaturization causing hairs to regrow fuller and healthier from the hair follicle. Before we discuss the benefits of low level laser light therapy lets define what it is.

What is low level laser light therapy?

Low level laser light therapy is a treatment used to regrow hair. According to Founder of Theradome, Tamim Hamid, “Human tissue is irradiated with photons (quantized bundles of light energy”>, which are absorbed by weak cells. With this extra energy, cells can return to a normal healthy state and resume their role within the human body.”

What does this theory have to do with laser light promoting hair growth? Light from the laser device produces energy to the cells of the hair follicle which helps the hair follicle cells perform at their best and produce healthy strands of hair that create a thicker, fuller appearance.

Side effects of low level laser therapy

This is a non-invasive laser treatment that does not burn or cut the skin.  It has been used successfully in Europe for over 30 years and has no known side effects.

How effective is low level laser therapy?

The results of low level laser therapy vary from one to person to the next. It is not a miracle. If you decide to have laser therapy you should consult a dermatologist, trichologist, or hair transplant surgeon to learn your options and to help make the proper decision about laser therapy. Laser therapy for hair loss works well with a combination of other treatments.  Treatments recommended may include the taking of oral medications or DHT inhibitors such as Finasteride also known as Propecia for men. DHT Inhibitors may be recommended to use with laser light therapy because they retard the hair follicle miniaturization process.

A trichologist may recommend taking a supplement with herbs that block DHT naturally such as saw palmetto and green tea extract. You should always ask your doctor before you take these supplements to make sure it is the best and safest option for you.

Topical treatments such as Rogaine, also known as minoxidil, may be prescribed to use with laser therapy to optimize hair growth results. Hair growth is possible as long as follicles are present on the scalp. Area’s on the scalp where you have more hair follicles will respond well and you may see more hair growth because of low level laser therapy, but areas on the scalp where you have fewer follicles will produce less hair. Low level laser therapy can also help contain your hair loss so that the area in question does not grow in size.

Cons of low level laser therapy

You have to be consistent. When using laser therapy for hair loss or other scalp problems, you need to know that you will have to use the light therapy as often as three times a week, for 15 to 20 min. per session. It is recommended to skip days in between laser therapy sessions. You will also be required to use laser therapy forever.  The minute you stop using the therapy, any results you see will be lost and you will eventually have the amount of hair loss you had before you started the laser therapy. Laser therapy works best in the beginning stages of hair loss. The earlier you start the therapy the more success you will have. This treatment is not one size fits all and it is important to understand the type of hair loss you have first before you purchase a laser device for hair loss or a laser therapy package from a hair loss clinic.

Laser therapy for hair loss can be pricey if you go into a hair restoration clinic or hair salon for the therapy. Prices could range from $1200 to $3500 a year for treatment inside a location but there is no guarantee that you will get hair growth results. Many doctors and trichologist believe more research is required to prove how well low level laser therapy works at promoting hair growth.

At-home low level laser therapy devices

Hand held laser devises are more affordable than paying for low level laser therapy service at a clinic or salon. Hand held devices can range from $295 to $495. If you want a more comfortable hands free laser to use at home, you can try the Theradome. The Theradome LH80 PRO has been FDA- cleared to treat androgenetic hair loss and promote hair loss specifically for women with female pattern hair loss. The Capillus Low Level Laser was created as a cap that you can use at home or on the go to treat your hair loss discreetly.  h

Best Drugstore Shampoo Guide for Your Scalp Condition

best shampoos for scalp conditions

There are a variety of products available at drugstores and beauty supply stores to help control dandruff and reduce itch, inflammation, excess oil production, and other symptoms associated with scalp conditions.

Sometimes a scalp condition can occur because of a specific allergic reaction to an ingredient in one of the hair products you are using. Use a process of elimination and stop using products you use repeatedly one at a time to pinpoint which product could be responsible.

When you are searching for a product to help treat your dandruff problem, make sure you know what ingredients will help control your symptoms.

Antiseptics

Antiseptics prevent infection. In anti-dandruff shampoos they are used to help retard or stop the growth of fungus and yeast associated with dandruff and severe cases of scaly problems like seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis.

Examples of antiseptics found in shampoos to treat dandruff are selenium sulfide, salicylic acid, pyrithione  zinc, sulphur iodine, ketoconazole, and hydrogen peroxide.

Shampoos with antiseptic ingredients:

Antipruritic

According to Cleveland Clinic, “pruritus or itch is defined as an unpleasant sensation of the skin that provokes the urge to scratch.” Many people who suffer with scalp problems complain of having an itchy scalp. It is recommended to avoid scratching the scalp so your scalp will not be inflamed or get infected. An antipruritic can help soothe the scalp and reduce the need to itch. They are found in shampoos, lotions, creams, and lotions for the scalp. An antipruritic leaves the scalp feeling cool. Camphor, coal tar, menthol, and eucalyptus are all antipruritic.

  • Therapeutic Denorex Maximum Itch Relief has 1.8% coal tar and 1.5% menthol to relieve constant itchy scalp. It is a shampoo and conditioner in one.
  • Scalpicin Maximum Strength Liquid Scalp Itch Treatment claims to help “temporarily relieve itching associated with minor skin irritation and rashes due to seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis and eczema.” Scalpicin has 1% hydrocortisone alcohol to reduce itching, glycerin to moisturize a dry, tight scalp and help soften flakes, and menthyl lactate, which is a derivative of menthol used as a cooling agent in hair and skin care products.

Keratolytics

Keratolytics aid in the normal desquamation process of the skin.  Desquamation is the natural process of skin shedding of the epidermis. When this natural process takes place at a rapid rate like psoriasis, coal tar, sulphur, and salicylic acid can help with the process of flake removal from the hair and scalp.

  • Extra Strength Denorex has 3% salicylic acid to help control buildup on the scalp and remove scales from dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Extra Strength Denorex helps reduce itching. This product is a shampoo and conditioner in one.
7 Types of Scalp Disorders, and How to Tell if You Have One

There are many people who suffer with dandruff.  Dandruff is defined as flaking of the scalp. The cause of dandruff is unknown but the excess amount of the yeast Malassezia found on the skin may play a role in the cause of dandruff. Dandruff can range from moderate to chronic and is a condition that many people suffer with. If you suffer with dandruff do not feel ashamed or embarrassed because there are a variety of products to help control the flakes and reduce the itching associated with the flaky scalp.

Moderate dandruff

If you have a moderate type of dandruff you can find over-the-counter products to help reduce the flakes and itching. When you use over-the-counter products to control flakes you may need to shampoo twice a week until the dandruff gets under control. Once the dandruff is under control, you can space out shampooing if you notice that the flakes do not come back in two to three days.

Some signs of normal dandruff are white flakes found on your shoulders, itchy scalp, tight scalp, and tender scalp from scratching your scalp.

Exaggerated dandruff

Exaggerated cases of dandruff can be seen by looking at your flakes. Do you notice flakes that are differentiated in size? Does your scalp burn or tingle? Do your flakes stick to your hair or pile up on your skin? These are signs and symptoms of a more severe case of dandruff like seborrheic dermatitis.

Seborrheic dermatitis

Seborrheic dermatitis is a problem with oily skin and the flakes are yellow in color. The scalp will be red in color and feel tight. The scalp will feel sore and tender from itching. The most common areas affected are the hairline and forehead. Seborrheic dermatitis is not limited to these areas and can be found anywhere on the scalp, as well as the neck, back, chest, face, ears, and anywhere else on the body.

Genetics and hormonal imbalance may play a role in the cause of seborrheic dermatitis. The frequent use of a shampoo or treatments containing 3% sulphur, 3% salicylic acid and an anti – fungal ingredients like ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione or selenium sulphide can help keep flakes under control.

Pityriasis amiantacea

Pityriasis amiantacea is a problem seen with people that have psoriasis or can be seen alone. According to the International Association of Trichologists Hair and Scalp Problems, “Pityriasis means scaling and amiantacea means asbestos – like, which describes how the flakes can look”. With pityriasis amiantacea the flakes stick to the hair or the hair sticks to the scalp. Some signs of pityriasis amiantacea include swollen red or reddish yellowish scalp and white flakes. Hair loss can occur if you are constantly scratching your scalp and damage the follicle.

Psoriasis

Psoriasis is an autoimmune problem of the skin. It occurs when a certain group of white blood cells attack healthy cells in the skin. Abnormal cell division causes skin cells to shed prematurely. Normal skin cells have a life span of 28 days for psoriasis; the rate is 10 times faster causing the buildup of red, scaly patches on the skin.

Triggers of psoriasis are exposure to a new substance, stress, injuries to the skin, and viral and bacterial infections. People who suffer with psoriasis are genetically predisposed to it. The amino acid Tyrosine may be recommended by a trichologist to help control the symptoms of psoriasis. Tyrosine helps increase the resistance of hair follicles to the autoimmune attack in the skin.

Lichen Simplex occurs with red, flaky patches by the nape area or along the neck near the hairline. This problem results in extreme scratching of the scalp and causes lichenification. Lichenification occurs from chronic itching and the skin becomes hardened and feels leathery. The main goal is to try and stop scratching the area in question. Hair loss and hair breakage may result. The cause of lichen simplex is unknown but emotional stress, and allergic reactions to cosmetics or a genetic predisposition may trigger lichen simplex. Lotions and creams containing menthol or camphor can help reduce the itching and products with 3% tar and 3% salicylic acid can be used to control the flakes.

Folliculitis

Folliculitis takes place when your follicles are inflamed. Signs of folliculitis include small pustules at the follicle openings where the inflammation occurs. You may experience severe itching and a tender scalp. For treatment you can use medicated topical treatments, antibiotics, or antiseptic’s to control the problem.

Ringworm

Ringworm is also known as tinea capitis. Ringworm is a fungus infection that creates a scaly circular bald patch on the skin or scalp. If you suspect you or a child has ringworm, you need to see a doctor immediately because ringworm is contagious. Your doctor will prescribe antibiotics to get rid of the ringworm.

Have you had any scalp problems similar to one of these? What did you use to control the problem?

Trichology: Study of the Hair and Scalp
scalp diagram
Illustration by Alexandr Dubovitskiy — Getty Images

Trichology is the scientific study of disorders of the hair and scalp, including anatomy, physiology, nutrition, and the chemical and physical makeup of the hair and skin.  The hair and scalp can be affected by imbalances inside the body and trichologists look at the hair, scalp, and systems of the body as one. According to trichologist Yvonne Solomon of YS Hair Solutions, “A trichologist can help get to the underlying cause of your problem. Trichologists address the issue as a whole and examine a person’s diet, lifestyle, personal hygiene, hair care practices, nutrition, medical history, and genetics to see what contributes to the hair or scalp disorder.” Some of the problems a trichologist can help with include chronic itching or scaling of the scalp, a sudden bald patch that has appeared on the scalp, excessive hair loss all over the scalp, or hair breakage from chemicals.

Sometimes your hair and scalp concerns are symptoms of a something related to your health, so tea rinses and oil massages are not always the best treatments. Dermatology, trichology, and cosmetology all have limitations, and if you are unsure of how to address your hair care and scalp issues, learn more about the different fields to book your appointment with the right professional.

Dermatologist

Solomon says, “A dermatologist is a medical doctor who specializes in the skin and scalp.  A dermatologist is qualified to prescribe medication and injections but a trichologist is not licensed to do so. Dermatologists help control the symptoms caused by the disorder by prescribing the appropriate topical treatment.”

Medical doctors can order blood work to investigate reasons why your disorder is happening. For example, if you are experiencing excessive hair loss all over the scalp, a doctor may want to check iron, ferritin, thyroid, sex hormones, or blood sugar levels to see if there are any imbalances that need to be addressed.

Trichologist

A trichologist stays within the scope of his or her practice and has to know when it is time to send the client to the appropriate doctor.  Treatments offered by trichologists may include low level laser light therapy, ultra violet therapy, massage therapy, aromatherapy, topical treatments, and recommending nutritional supplements. They can recommend a client to get blood work from a doctor but do not draw blood or order blood work. You can bring your blood work results into a trichology clinic and a trichologist can look for clues as to what may be triggering your problem.

Solomon adds: “Many times a trichologist will refer you to a medical doctor. The doctor does not have to be a dermatologist. A trichologist may recommend you to go to an endocrinologist or a gynecologist. Some people may be recommended to a psychologist because hair loss can cause severe depression or stress.”

Licensed cosmetologist

Licensed cosmetologists are trained to do more than just enhance a person’s hair, skin, or nails. They are trained to apply chemicals or products properly, follow manufactures instructions, and take every action necessary to prevent damage to the hair, scalp, or any other body parts. A cosmetologist must know when to tell a client that a specific salon service or style is not healthy for their hair or scalp. If a cosmetologist notices hair loss on a client’s scalp or another scalp problem and is unable to help the client with that particular problem, the cosmetologist should recommend a trichologist.

It is important to understand what the cause of your problem is before you choose a treatment.  If you don’t know what caused the problem, how will you know what treatment to use? Some problems of the scalp are self-correcting and no action is necessary because the issue will stop in time.