Search Results: Sophia Emmanuel

8 Women Pioneers Who Influenced The Natural Hair Movement

I had to make my own living and my own opportunity.  But I made it!  Don’t sit down and wait for the opportunities to come.  Get up and make them.
Madam C.J Walker

From hairstylists to natural hair innovators these women have turned their frustration to fruition with a variety of solutions and resources for natural hair. There are numerous women to thank for their contributions, but as a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist these are women I feel blazed a trail for women to embrace their natural beauty.

Madam C.J Walker

Madam C.J Walker is one of the first pioneers in the beauty business. In 1905, she designed her own line of hair products that addressed issues such as dandruff and scalp infections. She invented a shampoo called The Vegetable Shampoo, that had natural ingredients and was not as drying as the common lye based soaps used to cleanse the hair during her time. Madam C.J Walker also created a product called The Wonderful Hair Grower. It was a petroleum based ointment that contained sulphur. Madam C.J Walker was an educator, philanthropist and activist. She was named one of the first American women to become a self-made millionaire.

Anu Prestonia

Anu Prestonia is the founder of Khamit Kinks, a natural hair care salon founded in 1988, whose creative and precise hairstyles are admired worldwide. Anu has been instrumental in popularizing natural styling and hair care throughout the United States and other countries around the world. Decades ago, she created various braiding techniques and named many styles still worn proudly today, including, Single Braids, Swing Braids, Goddess Braids, Senegalese Twists, and Baby Curl Twists, just to name a few. She is an educator, author and visionary who has now launched a natural care line that includes perfume, body and hair care products, you can find more at Anu Essentials.

Gloria “GiGi” Ford

Gloria “GiGi” Ford is a hair replacement specialist. One of her talents is teaching cosmetologists everything they need to know about hair prosthetics. A hair prosthesis is not a wig. It is customized hair piece designed to add hair in areas where you are experiencing hair loss. A hair prosthesis should be undetectable and is attached using clips, adhesive, tape or sewn on to surrounding hair. Gloria Gigi Ford travels the world, teaching cosmetologists techniques to achieve natural looking results for their hair replacement clients. She also teaches them how to run their hair replacement business, and how to conduct a proper consultation.

Tomeka James

Tomeka James invents custom hair pieces so that there is no need to order the unit from a factory. She teaches cosmetologists how to make additional profit by creating the unit themselves. She teaches hairstylists wig making, or how to create customized hair pieces for women experiencing hair loss.  Tomeka James creates techniques that help stylists attach hair extensions in less time. She invented the Detachable Sewn Weave, which allows hair stylists to do their clients who have sewn extensions a lot more quickly.

Deshawn Bullard

Deshawn Bullard founded NouriTress Perfect Hair Products in 1998. She is a licensed cosmetologist, and created this line of products to address hair loss and thinning. What set Deshawn apart from her competitors when her hair care products came out was that she had a supplement called The Perfect Hair Vitamins. Deshawn Bullard understood that healthy hair starts within the body. Her products are such a success that they are sold globally and can be found in popular retail stores.

Jane Carter

Jane Carter Solution products differentiated themselves from other brands because they had products made with natural ingredients. In 1992, Jane Carter created Hair Nourishing Serum. Formulated with essential oils, and vitamins, the goal was to create a product that would not cause allergic reactions like the ingredients found in typical beauty products. Another staple product of Jane Carter Solution is the Nourish & Shine. It is a product that can be used on the hair, but is gentle enough to use on the skin. Nourish & Shine is infused with several butters, one of which is Shea butter which evaporates into the skin, moisturizes the hair, and adds plenty of shine.

Lisa Akbari

Lisa Akbari is a licensed cosmetologist and esthetician. She is also a board certified trichologist who has a passion for helping women achieve healthy hair and scalps on their own, or by educating hair stylists. Through her own research, she discovered two scalp disorders. One of the disorders is called Short Hair Syndrome. According to Mrs. Akbari, Short Hair Syndrome limits the hair from reaching full growth potential or fullness. This disorder presents itself by continuous hair growth, followed by hair breakage. It causes little elasticity, split ends, difference in texture, and sometimes, hair color change.

Hadiiya Barbel

Hadiiya Barbel is an Emmy Award winning celebrity stylist, and creative director. She is the founder of ARAYA NYC STYLE STUDIO, a place that offers women high quality, fashion forward wigs with a variety of textures and styles to choose from. Hadiiya Barbel has extraordinary hair cutting and styling skills, which sets her wigs apart from the average store bought wig. Hadiiya Barbel calls her wigs “crowns” because it takes away the negative feeling that there is something wrong with wearing a wig. ARAYA NYC STYLE STUDIO can revive new or existing wigs, and teach other cosmetologists the art and business of wig making.

These are just some of the icons who have influenced the beauty industry. Which women inspire you?

These Nutritional Deficiencies Hurt Your Hair Growth
Photo Courtesy of Natasha Leeds

If you notice excessive hair loss all over the scalp, it may be a sign of a nutrient deficiency.

Hair is a fast-growing tissue that grows one centimeter per month inside pockets called hair follicles. At the base of the follicle is the hair bulb, where cells divide and push their way up to form a single strand of hair. Under the hair bulb lies the dermal papilla, which is responsible for taking nourishment from the body’s blood to keep hair growing and healthy. Other things such as waste, hormones, and drugs are also carried to and from the dermal papilla, which can affect hair growth when there is a big or slight change in the body. This type of hair loss is called diffuse hair loss. It takes place when there is an imbalance within the body. This change in the body can be temporary and the body either corrects it or needs help correcting it.

This type of hair loss is not permanent. The anagen phase is the hair growth phase is suspended by the internal problem. As a result, more of your hair dives into the resting phase (i.e. the telogen phase”> and your hair sheds more than it grows. The hair loss or breakage stops once the problem is addressed and fixed. You may need nutritional supplements or medications to remedy the problem.

The most common nutritional deficiency that causes diffuse hair loss and hair breakage is iron-deficiency anemia.

The most common nutritional deficiency that causes diffuse hair loss and hair breakage is iron-deficiency anemia. Low iron can take place after you have a baby, bleeding heavily during menstruation and excessive blood loss. You may feel tired even though you get enough sleep or out of breath doing simple tasks.Even if you are not anemic, you may have low iron levels that can still cause diffuse hair loss. Signs to look out for with your hair include dry, brittle hair that brakes off easily and a lighter hair color. 

Here are other mineral deficiencies, such as zinc, calcium, and magnesium, that contribute to hurting your hair as well.

  • Zinc helps us to have a healthy immune system, producing energy, and protein synthesis. Zinc deficiency causes hair to break off and feel dry. You may notice white spots on your fingernails and scaly, acne-prone skin.
  • Calcium is responsible for us having healthy bones and teeth and aids with the secretion of hormones. Hormones, like androgens, influence hair growth and hair loss by the amounts of androgens present in the hair follicle. Each person’s sensitivity to them.
  • Magnesium helps with energy production, and help nerves operate at their best, but a magnesium deficiency can cause hormone imbalance. For women, it can increase testosterone, which leads to excessive facial hair, diffuse hair loss, androgenetic alopecia, and polycystic ovarian syndrome.

How do vitamin deficiencies affect hair growth? 

  • Vitamin A plays an important role in helping the skin function properly. If you are deficient, you may have scaly skin and dry hair that is prone to breakage.
  • B 12 vitamins are necessary for red blood cell production. If a deficiency is present, it can lead to anemia, which can lead to excessive hair loss.
  • Vitamin C deficiency can lead to excessive hair loss all over the scalp, and dry brittle hair that grows slow. Vitamin C helps with the absorption of iron, and a deficiency can lead to anemia.

If you feel that you have a mineral or vitamin deficiency that is causing hair loss, breakage, or brittle hair, go to your primary care physician immediately to find out for sure. They will run appropriate test to diagnose and treat you.

What’s next?

Learn the truth about natural hair products.

Read 3 Reasons Why 4c Hair Is Different Than Other Texture Types.

What Makes Wavy Hair Different From Other Texture Types

The Do’s and Dont’s of Hair Care During Pregnancy
Photo by digitalskillet — Getty Images

If you are pregnant or thinking of having a baby, you may have questions about what you should not do to your hair. Some common concerns women have is whether or not they can apply chemical treatments, such as texturizers, smoothing treatments, permanent color, or bleach, to their hair. Other people are concerned about excessive hair fall or shedding after pregnancy, and if there is anything that they can use on their hair to prevent the hair loss.

Is it safe to use permanent color on your hair while pregnant?

Research shows that applying chemicals to the hair will not affect the fetus, because the amount of chemical absorbed by the skin is a small amount. It is recommended that you ask your doctor whether or not it is safe to use any type of chemical treatment while pregnant to ensure the health of you and the baby is not compromised. When it comes to permanent color services, I recommend asking your hairstylist to use an off the scalp technique that does not require any bleach or artificial color touching the scalp; this way none of the product is absorbed into the skin. If you have to cover gray, try using a color with low or no ammonia. If you are going to color your hair at home, you can use a semi-permanent color, which only deposits color and doesn’t lift. Semi- permanent color is ammonia free and blends gray hair so that it is less noticeable. It only deposits color and doesn’t lift your permanent color, making it great to darken or enhance the color of your current strands. You can try Clairol Professional Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution.

Ask your hairstylist about no ammonia, demi-permanent options to cover grays and enhance your natural hair color without extreme lifting. I like using Paul Mitchell Shines XG demi- permanent color, because it does not have a strong odor and has no ammonia. It is creamy and easy to apply, unlike liquid formulas that can be messy and drip. It also covers gray hair well and gives the hair nice shine.

Can I use smoothing treatments while I am pregnant?

There is not a lot of research about smoothing treatments and the effects they have on pregnant women or the unborn child. I recommend staying away from smoothing treatments that have formaldehyde, because of the limited research. Instead, try a smoothing system like the Design Essentials STS treatment that is formaldehyde free and will not burn the eyes or skin. It is an amino acid based treatment that gently softens the hair and hardly has a smell. During pregnancy, some women are more sensitive to certain smells, and you should not take the risk being around chemicals with strong odors that may make you feel sick.

Is it ok to use Rogaine or other products with minoxidil while I am pregnant?

During pregnancy, it is not necessary to use products that help regrow hair. The high levels of estrogen help the hair to grow more than usual while pregnant. Your hair stays in the hair growth phase and sheds less while pregnant. Three months after your baby is born, you will notice excessive hair shedding, also known as diffuse hair loss. The shedding is caused by hormonal changes in your body, and the hair that is falling out is what would have shed during the nine months you were pregnant.

Minoxidil should not be used during pregnancy, because it may cause birth defects. Although it has not been tested on humans, minoxidil has been proven to cause birth defects in animals and should not be used if you are pregnant or trying to conceive.

Consider asking your doctor if there is a specific trimester where it is safe to use artificial color or other chemicals on your hair. When you receive a chemical treatment, make sure the salon or your home is well ventilated or open the window. It is important to follow the manufacture’s instructions when applying the chemical to your hair and make sure you pay attention to the processing time to prevent leaving the product on longer than instructed.

What products did you shy away from or use on your hair while pregnant? 

How Scalp Injections Are Being Used to Reverse Hair Loss?

Can You Go A Week Without Hair Product?

Keep Your Scalp Healthy By Doing This

The 3 Common Types of Scarring Alopecia, and How to Treat Them

PHOTO BY poco_bw — GETTY IMAGES

Cicatricial alopecia, also known as, scarring alopecia, represents various types of hair loss disorders that cause permanent hair loss. Scarring alopecia causes destruction of hair follicles and replaces the follicles with scar tissue. Once hair follicles are destroyed, hair growth is not possible. Although there are different types of scarring alopecia, the common cause is inflammation of the hair follicle.

The hair follicle is located underneath the skin. Near the upper part of the follicle lives the stem cells and sebaceous glands, which secrete sebum. Once the stem cells and the sebaceous glands are destroyed, there is no way for cells to regenerate, which results in permanent hair loss. There are three common types of scarring alopecia.

Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia (FFA”>

Frontal fibrosing alopecia looks like a straight narrow band of hair loss right at the front of the head. It happens around the temples and hairline. It affects postmenopausal women over the age of 50. Some people also lose eyebrow hair when they have frontal fibrosing alopecia.

The signs of frontal fibrosing alopecia

Frontal fibrosing alopecia is noticeably different under a microscope. The scalp will look shiny, discolored, red in some areas, and follicle openings will be closed. This type of hair loss can also be found in women with genetic hair loss.

What is the cause of FFA?

The cause of FFA is unknown, but it’s speculated that hormonal fluctuations could be a result since the scalp disorder affects women after menopause.

What treatments are available?

Unfortunately, there is no treatment for frontal fibrosing alopecia as of yet. Doctors may prescribe oral steroids and anti-inflammatory antibiotics. According to Dr. Singh, the 5-alpha reductase inhibitors finasteride and dutasteride have been reported to stop further hair loss in some women.

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA”>

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia is the most common form of scarring alopecia. It causes destruction of hair follicles, because inflammatory cells attack hair follicle cells. It can affect both men and women of any race, but research shows it affects African American women greater. Pressing combs, hair extensions, braids, and the length of time relaxer is left on the scalp may influence central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia.

How can you tell if you have CCCA?

Diagnosis of CCCA has to be done with the help of a biopsy from a doctor, because it can resemble other types of hair loss, such as genetic hair loss, diffuse hair loss, or alopecia areata.

Are there any signs of CCCA?

Some people may feel burning, tingling, or tenderness of the scalp. Central centrifugal alopecia may start off with a small unnoticeable bald spot on the scalp that slowly expands over time. The scalp may look shiny and feel smooth. In other cases, CCCA can take place rapidly and lead to a lot of hair loss in a shorter period of time.

Is there any treatment CCCA?

For best treatment options, I recommend going to a dermatologist who specializes in hair and scalp disorders, because it is challenging to diagnose and treat scarring alopecia. Anti-inflammatory medications are prescribed by doctors to stop or reduce lymphocytic cells from destroying the hair follicle.

Lichen Planopilaris (LPP”>

Lichen planopilaris is different from other types of scarring alopecias, because it is an inflammatory autoimmune skin condition. If someone has lichen planopilaris, their immune system mistakenly attacks cells of hair follicles, replacing them with scar tissue.

What does lichen planopilaris look like?

You may notice a small patch of alopecia or multiple small areas of white hair loss. If you rub your finger against the area where you see the hair loss, the scalp feels rough. Lichen planopilaris can increase in size and be as large as the palm of your hand.

There are many types of hair loss that resemble patchy hair loss, so a biopsy is the best way to diagnose it. A person might feel pain due to the inflammation or itchy purplish bumps on the scalp.

Treatment options for lichen planopilaris

As of now, there is no treatment for lichen planopilaris. Dermatologists can recommend antihistamines to relieve itching, topical treatments, such as corticosteroid creams, to bring down the swelling, and treat bumps with prednisone shots. Lichen planopilaris goes away by itself and any treatment prescribed will help alleviate the symptoms.

The first step in diagnosing scarring alopecia is to get a scalp biopsy. It advises the doctor on the type of inflammation present, as well as how much inflammation is affecting the follicles and where the inflammation is in the hair follicle. A biopsy also helps the dermatologist determine the best therapy to use for the scarring alopecia.

What’s next:

Learn more about oils that soothe the scalp, read about anti-inflammatory oils

Are you a coconut oil lover? Find out more about Shea Moisture’s 100% Coconut Oil Collection.

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This is What You Need to Know About Monat Products

The Monat Global Let It Grow treatment system stimulates the natural regeneration of hair follicles to boost hair growth. The product line consists of the Monat Intense Repair Treatment Shampoo and a leave-in scalp spray called Monat Intense Repair Treatment, which do not contain sulfates, parabens, fragrances, DEA/MEA, and PEG, which are popular skin irritants. Theresa Toscano, a Monat Global Independent Market Partner, says that the Let It Grow treatment system can be used by anyone who wants stronger, healthier hair.

What are the ingredients in these products that restore the hair?

Toscano says, “Capixly is powered with red clover extract, a gentle emollient that reduces scalp inflammation, strengthens and thickens hair, and hydrates the scalp to stimulate natural, noticeable hair growth. Capixyl combines both biochanin A and acetyl tetrapeptide-3.”

“Biochanin A is a powerful isoflavone and an effective inhibitor of 5-α-reductase (type I & II”> activity, thus modulating the conversion of testosterone to DHT in androgenic alopecia.”

Dihydrotestosterone, also known as DHT, is responsible for follicle shrinkage, which causes hairs to look thinner over time.

“Acetyl tetrapeptide-3 is biomimetic peptides, which stimulate tissue remodeling and have a direct effect on the hair follicle. The remodeling signal will increase the size of hair follicle for better hair anchoring and vitality.”

The second ingredient is called procataline, which has pea extract, a rich source of secondary metabolites, which deliver healthy nutrients to promote hair growth, and also reduces the production of dihydrotestosterone.”

Independent clinical studies are used for the active ingredients in the Let It Grow system.

How is this system different from Minoxidil?

The Intense Repair Treatment can be easily applied to the scalp and is less messy than using foams or liquids with dropper applicator. You can spray the product directly where you need it on the scalp with no worries of clogging your scalp. Like abyssinica seed oil, which mimics sebum, locks in moisture, and protects the scalp from dryness.

The scalp treatment contains a butylene glycol, an organic alcohol and humectant used to help other ingredients dissolve in water to thin the product for better spreadability. This oil traps water from the air and prevents the product from drying out the skin. It is the least irritating glycol found in beauty products.

How are these products different from hair vitamins?

You could use your hair vitamins in conjunction with topical treatments. This way, you work on nourishing the hair cells on the inside and use the Let It Grow system for scalp health. Theresa adds, “The formulas are unique in that they have a small molecular structure which allows the ingredients to penetrate deep down to the follicle and in to the cuticle, nourishing all three layers of the hair.”

How should Monat be used?

Theresa advises, “To achieve the best results, it is recommended to use the Intensive Repair Treatment two times every day. Once optimal results are achieved, someone could switch to a maintenance schedule. The shampoo is to be used as often as you cleanse.”

Remember, any scalp treatment you use to promote hair growth in a case of androgenetic alopecia has to be used forever otherwise your hair will start thinning again.

Can Monat be purchased in stores?

Monat can only be purchased through a Monat market partner. Give the product at least three to six months of consistent use before you decide if it’s working.

If you suffer with hair loss and want to try a topical treatment with gentle ingredients that are efficient, I recommend Monat Global Let It Grow treatment system, but you should always schedule a consultation with a dermatologist or trichologist if you are experiencing hair loss before you try a treatment. More information can be found at www.HealthyHairCoach.com.

What products have you tried for reversing hair loss?

Find out more about androgenetic alopecia.

This stem cell product, called Vitalize can help reverse hair loss.

Learn how to properly care for your thinning hair.

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6 Ways Hairstylists Can Address Hair Loss with Clients

Many women who experience hair loss feel hopeless. They feel like they have nowhere to turn or that their concerns have no solutions, especially affordable ones. Hair loss is often kept a secret from family and friends, but consulting with a professional can bring hope. If they are unaware of the problem, they will appreciate you telling them, so treatment options can start sooner than later. Here are six things you can do to address your client’s hair loss.

Have a private discussion with your client

You should have a talk with your client asking he or she if they noticed a change in their hair or scalp recently. You may see a sudden bald patch, receding hairline, thinning in the crown or bang area, and a wider than usual part. Sometimes you may notice skin discolorations or a shiny smooth surface where the hair loss occurs.

Discuss what changes you see on the scalp, without trying to diagnose the problem, and recommend the client see a dermatologist. Let the client know that the dermatologist can order blood work and run another test, like a biopsy, to determine cause.

“A scalp biopsy is a short procedure, performed under local anesthesia, that allows a few hairs (and the skin surrounding those hairs”> to be removed for future examination under the microscope,” according to Dr. Jeff Donovan, a Canadian and U.S. board certified dermatologist.

Educate your client about trichology

A dermatologist can help your client with any problem related to skin while a trichologist can help with problems concerning the scalp and hair, offering clients topical therapies when necessary.

Trichologists try to find the cause of the hair loss and use information from blood work ordered by a doctor to help them in their search. Trichologists may recommend your client to a nutritionist, endocrinologist, or other specialist who may be able to help pinpoint the cause of the hair loss.

Sometimes, a dermatologist may not have time to go over all your clients concerns, or questions about what is happening to their hair. If your client needs more answers, encourage her to see a trichologist so he or she can have a more extensive scalp analysis.

Offer alternative styling options

If you notice your client is experiencing hair loss, it may be time for you to talk to her about changing her hairstyle. Clients have favorite hairstyles that they want to wear all the time. As the professional, you have to tell the client why wearing styles such as tight ponytails, cornrows, and hair extensions repeatedly are harmful to the scalp due to potential traction alopecia.

Wigs are a great alternative for clients that like protective styling and do not want to wear their own hair out. With wigs, you have access to your scalp and can cleanse your scalp regularly to avoid itchiness or dryness.

Hair loss support groups

Once your client finds out she has hair loss, you can help her with accepting and coping with the change. One way to do that is to recommend a hair loss support group like Women’s Hair Loss Project. This blog offers women the opportunity to connect and share their stories about hair loss, so your client does not feel alone.

Hair loss seminars

You can bring awareness to hair loss by hosting a hair loss seminar at your salon. Invite a dermatologist, hair replacement specialist, wig designers, nutritionist, and, trichologist to speak at the event, educating clients on hair loss. This creates a space for dialogue and resources that your clients may not have access to.

Offer resources in the salon

Add reading materials about hair loss in your waiting section. Having hair loss literature at the time of the client’s hair appointment can help them start the conversation about their hair loss with you.

You do not have to feel intimidated when addressing your clients’ hair loss. Once you inform your clients about it, you will learn that sharing the information is not as hard as it seems. It is all about compassionate, tactful, and professional.

What strategies would you use to inform your clients about hair loss? 

What’s next?

Learn How to Care For Chemo Curls.

Not sure what curly products will work on your hair type? Read The Best Curly Hair Styling Products of 2016 – for every curl type. 

Is it better to drink your supplements?

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My E’TAE Natural Products Review

E’TAE Natural Products is a hair care line formulated with natural ingredients designed for natural or chemically-processed hair. I was inspired to try the products after some of my clients requested I try them on their hair. 

Carmel Reconstructing Treatment

One product to highlight is the E’TAE Natural Products Carmel Reconstructing Treatment. I used it on my client who has type 4a hair with about 5 inches of relaxer left on the hair shaft. Initially, I was a little skeptical using it because honey is the first ingredient. I thought it would cause my client’s hair stick together, making it difficult to detangle, but this did not happen. I followed the instructions on the back of the bottle, and made sure the client’s hair was damp before I applied it. Because her hair was wet, it allowed the product to spread on easily, leaving it soft to the touch. This treatment is also made with real bananas, which helps to strengthen the hair from the high amounts of potassium found in the fruit.

You should wear gloves before you apply this product to your hair, because it is sticky, but the treatment will not run down your face or cause a mess because the consistency is thick. Allow the Carmel Reconstructor to sit on your hair for 20 minutes with a plastic processing cap. If you need deeper conditioning, it is advised to leave the treatment on for 1 hour. Heat is not necessary. This treatment rinses out the hair well and does not leave behind any type of buildup.

Carmelux Deep Penetrating Treatment Shampoo

After thoroughly rinsing it out, I applied the sulfate-free E’TAE Natural Products Carmelux Deep Penetrating Treatment Shampoo. If you avoid shampoo because of its drying effects, you will like this shampoo because it removes dirt and products from the hair without leaving the hair dehydrated. My client’s hair was left with a nice shine after rinsing the shampoo.

Carmelux Silk Protein Conditioner

After cleansing, I applied the E’TAE Natural Product’s Carmelux Silk Protein Conditioner. I put her under the steamer for deeper penetration and her hair was a little softer. This conditioner is too light and did not provide enough moisture to my client’s hair. It also lacked enough slip to detangle. It did however provide high shine to my client’s hair, which the client was happy with after the blow-dry and flat iron service.

A thick conditioner with great slip and moisture was needed for my client’s high density texture. Normally for clients that fit her hair description, I look for conditioners with behentrimonium methosulfate. This mild surfactant helps provide a lot of slip without leaving buildup on the hair or irritating the scalp.

Buttershine Hair Crème

The E’TAE Natural Products Buttershine Hair Crème is a light cream made with Shea butter that I applied to my client’s hair before flat ironing. A small amount helped lay down coarser areas of hair and control the flyaways. To decrease the risk of heat damage, don’t forget to use a heat protectant serum, like Joico K- PAK Protect and Shine Serum, before thermal styling.

For my clients with type 4 hair, I would use the E’TAE Natural Products Carmel Reconstructing Treatment and the E’TAE Natural Products Carmelux Deep Penetrating Treatment Shampoo followed by Jane Carter Nutrient Replenishing Conditioner for more slip, and added softness.

I recommend using the Carmelux Silk Protein Deep Conditioner if you have low density hair or have a hair texture that does not require extra moisture. Sometimes you have to tweak what products you use in a particular hair care line to get the results you need for your hair.

Have you tried E’TAE Natural Products? How did the products work for your hair? 

*Editor’s note: This article is not sponsored. 

Do you need to learn how to detangle your hair while transitioning? Read 5 ways To Detangle While You Transition.

Find out how to detangle without causing breakage.

See what five conditioners can help you get rid of tangles.

How to Style Your Hair With Less Damage
Photo Courtesy of Createherstock — Isha Gaines

When it comes to choosing a hairstyle, it is important to consider the technique involved in achieving the particular style. Just because a hairstyle looks nice does not mean it is the healthiest option for your hair and scalp. If you are unsure whether the look you want to achieve is going to cause damage, get the professional opinion of a cosmetologist who is skilled in the hairstyle you want. If you already have hair damage or hair loss, you still have style options but the type of styles you can wear can be limited depending on the level of damage done to your hair and scalp. Consider these four styles to try if you want to avoid hair damage and restore your hair’s health.

Twisted or Braided Updos 

Styling your hair in an updo or pin up is a great way to protect your hair from overmanipulation. They are also convenient for the person who has limited time in the morning or at night to style their hair. Pin up hairstyles can be done at home and you do not have to braid or twist your hair extremely tight to achieve them. If you have breakage or alopecia around the hairline, you can use the length at the back and sides of your head to create an updo. You can reduce traction alopecia by choosing updos that are styled loosely.

Here is a video of a natural hairpin up that is not adding any tension on the scalp.  A little bit of synthetic kanekalon hair can be added to the pin up for fullness when needed.

To avoid traction alopecia, do not wear ponytails or bun hairstyles every day, because they cause hair breakage along the perimeter of the head, especially if they are pulled tightly. Try to wear your hair down in a loose hairstyle that does not require any pulling on the hair or scalp.

Get a smoothing treatment if you like straight hairstyles

You can get an amino acid smoothing treatment if you like to wear your hair straight. The amino acids help strengthen the hair, and elongate curls.  Treatments such as Design Essentials STS Smoothing Treatment or Affirm Texture Release are formulated to temporarily straighten the hair. These treatments are activated by heat from a blow-dryer and flat iron to help soften your hair.

The key in preventing heat damage is to always use a heat protectant before thermal styling. I recommend Joico K-PAK Protect and Shine Serum. This serum will seal and protect your hair with macadamia seed oil and evening primrose oil.

Having a smoothing treatment does not mean you can straighten your hair every day. You can take advantage of all the smoothing treatment has to offer by wearing your hair in a wash and go hairstyle. Smoothing treatments are designed to reduce frizz and enhance your hair’s natural curl pattern. Try to flat iron your hair once a month and wear textured styles more often to prevent heat damage.

If you already have heat damage, try Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector at home. With continued use, it can help temporarily restore your hair and its loosened curl pattern from heat use, but there is no guarantee. Read more about Olaplex here.

Use rod sets in between permanent color retouch applications

If you already have color damage, try to prolong retouch applications. If you do not like to see your new growth where your virgin hair color meets your artificial color, use flexi rods or perm rods to create curls that can help hide your new growth.

Avoid doing your own hair color at home, because you can cause damage to the hair and scalp if you do not use the permanent hair color properly; the hair at the back of your hair is most vulnerable, as you cannot see it. You can overlap the color if you are doing a retouch application or leave the color on your hair too long, causing severe hair breakage and split ends.

Try to wait 6-8 weeks before you reapply your permanent hair color. Use permanent color instead of powder bleach even if you want to achieve high lift colors such as blonds or bright reds. Powder bleach strips your hair of the natural pigment and is more damaging on the hair than permanent dye this is why you want to avoid using powder bleach whenever possible.

Short hair cut

Sometimes your hair damage is so severe, your only choice may be to get a new haircut to get your hair back in shape. Tapered haircuts are low maintenance and are a perfect way to get acquainted with your curl pattern again.  There are several shapes available for you when it comes to choosing a short natural hairstyle. With short tapered haircuts, you can still two-stand twist or rod set the length of hair on the top of your head. I recommend using Design Essentials Natural Twist and Setting Lotion because it lightly holds the set without flaking or making the hair feel dry.  If you need a medium hold with wet sets on your short haircut, try Jane Carter’s Natural Twist Out Foam.

These four style options can help you avoid more damage to your hair. Whatever style you choose, make sure to research the maintenance and the effects the style can have on your hair or scalp.

Have you ever experienced hair damage? What are some hairstyles you tried to prevent further problems?

Would you like to learn more?

Read 4 Short Natural Hairstyles To Make You Feel More Confident.

Learn the difference between amino acids and keratin treatments.

Step by step instructions on how to maintain your blonde color treated hair at home.

How to Remove Your Baby’s Cradle Cap
baby cradle cap
Photo courtesy of santypan – Getty Images

Like adults, babies can have scalp conditions that cause scaling like dandruff, eczema, and ringworm. One of the most common types of scalp conditions an infant can get is cradle cap.

Cradle cap is another name for seborrheic dermatitis. Dr. Kim and Dr. Pope say, “Cradle cap is an oily, yellow scaling or crusting on a baby’s scalp. It is common in babies and is easily treated. Cradle cap is not a part of any illness and does not imply that a baby is not being well cared for.”

What causes cradle cap?

The exact cause of cradle cap is unknown, but Dr. Gupta says, “Seborrhea happens most often in babies and teenagers. In both of these times in a person’s life, hormone levels are high, which also might play a role in the condition.”

Since seborrheic dermatitis and cradle cap are the same, the sex hormones and thyroxine could be the trigger.  When androgens or thyroxine increase, sebum increases as well. This over production of the skins natural lubricant may be the cause of cradle cap.

According to Dr. Gupta, “A type of yeast (fungus”> called malassezia can grow in the sebum along with bacteria, and this may be another factor in the development of cradle cap.”

Photo Courtesy of russaquarius — Getty Images

What are the signs of cradle cap?

Talk to your pediatrician instead of diagnosing your infant with cradle cap yourself, because it can look different for every baby. Common signs are patches on the skin that look oily or greasy covered with white or yellow scales. Some babies get temporary hair loss because of cradle cap and their skin may itch and look red.

Cradle cap is not limited to the scalp and can be found on other parts of the body where there are sebaceous glands like corners of the nose, back, eyebrows, neck, eyelids, and forehead.

How do you remove cradle cap?

Much like dandruff, cradle cap can be easily treated at home once you get the proper diagnosis from your doctor.  You can use mineral oil or glycerin to soften the flakes before you remove them.

Because oil can make the condition worse, it is important to remove the oil with a mild baby shampoo. Try a pre-shampoo treatment. Apply the oil to your scalp and gently massage it in to help lift scales. You can use a soft bristle brush made for babies to help remove flakes from the scalp while the oil is on your baby’s scalp. Be careful not to aggravate the scalp by rubbing too hard or scratching flakes with your nails or combs.

Massage and brush flakes away from the scalp for 3-5 min. Add shampoo to the hair and scalp before you wet the infant’s head with water. This will help remove all the oil from the hair and scalp.

Lather the shampoo and let it sit for 1-2 min. before you rinse it. You can shampoo once more if needed. Follow with a baby conditioner.

What are natural, at-home treatments?

There is no cure for cradle cap. It usually goes away by itself. You can treat cradle cap at home once you get approval from your doctor. Try to shampoo your infant’s scalp regularly. Some babies, depending on the level of the condition, may need their scalp cleansed every day until the buildup minimizes. Other infants may need their hair cleansed 2-3 times a week.

You can use Gentle Naturals Baby Therapeutics Cradle Cap Treatment Kit. It is a cream formulated with the first ingredient being caprylic/capric triglyceride, which is derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It helps retain moisture to the skin’s surface and replenishes the scalp.  The second ingredient helps exfoliate and smooth out the skin. The canola oil helps to moisturize and soothe the scalp.

You can apply this product on the scalp before you shampoo your infant’s hair. Thoroughly massage the product into the scalp and use a soft brush to help remove scalp buildup from the skin.

Cradle cap is a condition that you can control at home with the proper guidance. It affects many babies and there is nothing you are doing wrong as a parent. With a few exfoliating techniques, you will be able to control the scales and dryness.

How did you help your baby with cradle cap? Share you tips with us?

How Does the HairMax LaserComb Work for Hair Growth?
Photo Courtesy of Hold the Hairline

[quote cite=”ncbi.nlm.nih.gov” citeurl=”https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4126803/” align=”aligncenter”]low-level laser light therapy is a fast-growing technology used to treat a multitude of conditions that require stimulation of healing, relief of pain and inflammation, and restoration of function. Although the skin is the organ that is naturally exposed to light more than any other organ, it still responds well to red and near-infrared wavelengths.[/quote]

How does the HairMax LaserComb work?

The HairMax® LaserComb uses low level laser light therapy to reverse hair loss for people with androgenetic alopecia. Androgenetic alopecia causes hair loss of the front, temples and crown areas of the scalp. This type of hair loss is triggered by how sensitive your hair follicles are to androgens, the sex hormone found in male and females responsible for the development of male reproductive system and traits.  It can also be caused by genetics.

Even though the laser comb is designed to reverse hair loss associated with androgenetic alopecia, I have noticed that the low level laser light technology also helps clients who have problems with sore scalp, flaky scalp and retaining hair left over from permanent hair loss.

The HairMax LaserComb uses laser phototherapy to stimulate hair growth, a process similar to photosynthesis which causes the growth of plants. The light from the HairMax LaserComb is supposed to reverse miniaturization.  When your follicles go through miniaturization, terminal hairs, which are thick normal strands of hair, turn to fine peach fuzz hairs.  Laser phototherapy helps extend the follicles hair growth cycle and help increase hair density.

How effective is the treatment?

The treatment is effective depending on the problem you are experiencing. First, you need to seek help from a dermatologist or trichologist who can diagnose and recommend if laser therapy is the right treatment for you.

Who should use the HairMax?

You do not want to spend money purchasing a laser comb if your hair loss or scalp problem is related to a nutritional or medical problem.  In a case like this, your doctor or specialist will order blood work and explain to you the next steps to treat the bodily imbalance, which should help stop the hair loss.

If you have traction alopecia or any other scarring alopecia that causes permanent loss of hair on specific areas on the scalp, I recommend using a laser to reduce the hair loss from growing in size. It is very important to seek medical advice if you notice hair loss because it can be a warning that there is something going on internally that needs the help of a doctor.

In the salon, once my clients have been diagnosed with a scarring alopecia, I recommend the HairMax LaserComb and for them to take orally the amino acid Tyrosine because together they help reverse inflammation of the skin.  This treatment also helps to reduce pain of the scalp as well.  Always talk to your doctor before taking any supplements.

I have noticed, that low level laser therapy helps clients who suffer with flaking of the scalp.  It helps by slowing down skin cells turn over, especially in cases of psoriasis.

How to use it

The HairMax LaserComb works best when you use the teeth of the comb to part your hair so that the light shines directly on the skin where the follicles are affected.

Always use the laser comb on a clean scalp.  Be sure to cleanse your hair at least one to two times a week especially if you are using topical treatments like minoxidil in conjunction with the laser comb.

It is important to be consistent with the use of the laser comb.  For the best results use the laser two to three times a week, in every other day sequence.

If you notice hair growth or other positive changes, it is important that you continue to use the device.  Once you stop using it, your problem could start back again.  You will need to use the laser forever if you notice results.

Is it necessary to use the HairMax LaserComb products with the laser comb?

HairMax LaserComb has products that you can use in conjunction with the laser comb.  They work well for overall scalp health and are not necessary to enhance how the HairMax LaserComb works.  Some clients have used minoxidil and the laser comb for increased hair growth.  The results vary based on the individual so it is best to try using the laser comb alone for six months.  If you are not happy with the results, you can try using minoxidil and the laser comb for more hair growth.

Have you used the HairMax LaserComb before?  What results did you notice?

Sometimes A Urine and Blood Test are Needed for a Healthy Scalp
Photo Courtesy of Susan Chiang — Getty Images

What is trichology?

Trichology is the scientific study of the structure, function, and diseases of the human hair and scalp. A trichologist can help you if you are experiencing hair breakage, an excessive amount of hair loss, a sudden bald patch, or an uncontrollable amount of itching or flaking of the scalp.

Trichology.edu.au says, a “trichologist will carefully question each new client and examine the scalp thoroughly to assess the problem and its cause. A microscopic examination of the hair might be required to aid in the diagnosis of the problem.”

If you are thinking of going to a trichologist for a consultation, here is how you can prepare.

Be ready to thoroughly answer questions about your health

During your first consultation, family and personal medical history will be evaluated. The trichologist will ask you to fill out a form which ask you questions about family genetics, diet, nutrition, and medications. This information is essential to help the trichologist find out cause of the problem. When answering these questions, you need to be as honest as possible so that you get a proper diagnosis.

Go to the consultation with your hair and scalp easy to access

Have your hair in a loose style, bun, or ponytail. It also needs to be detangled. If you are going in for a consultation concerning excessive hair loss, the trichologist may want to gently remove hair from your scalp by running their hands through your hair. The trichologist may want to look at the shape of the hair bulb attached to the fallen strands of hair or to see the percentage of hair loss.

Schedule enough time for the consultation

It is important to schedule enough time for a trichology consultation. It can take anywhere from 45 minutes to 2 hours for a consultation depending on the problem and if you decide to get a treatment on the same day. Find out in advance how long the first consultation will be from the trichologist. In order to get your money’s worth and receive accurate answers, it is important to not rush your consultation.

Minimize how often you shampoo your hair

It is recommended that you do not shampoo your hair three days before your consultation.  When you shampoo your hair to close to the trichology consultation, you wash away evidence that may help the trichologist diagnose your problem, for example, excessive flakes and shedding hair.

Do not use scalp oils

Stay away from using oils on your scalp unless you are going to do a pre-poo treatment in which the oil will be shampooed out. Oils create a barrier on the scalp and it can be difficult to see what is happening on the skin and can also cause the trichologist to give you incorrect information about your problem.

Get your pH tested

Sometimes hair loss can be an indication of an imbalance in the body. A trichologist may ask you to test your pH with the use of your saliva or urine. pH testing allows the trichologist to get insights on whether the body is maintaining proper pH balances. The trichologist will advise you if you should use the test first thing in the morning or several times throughout the day for 24 hours. This test can indicate to trichologist if you have a diet high in foods and drinks that are too acidic or alkaline and what to do about it. When the body does not maintain proper pH balances, health problems may occur, which can trigger hair loss.

Bring in a copy of your blood work results

Your trichologist may want to see blood test results, which should be 3 to 6 months old. Trichologists can use this information about your health to see if there are any abnormalities that may be triggering the problem you are concerned with.

According to philipkingsley.com, “Your doctor may well say that everything is normal and not to worry, chances are that you will still be concerned because you know that something is amiss.  Also, there is always an underlying cause for hair loss. The reason for confusion is frequently this: your GP will read your blood test results differently than a trichologist will. He or she is looking for levels that might affect your general health, but not your hair – a non-vital tissue.”

Be prepared to learn about treatments

Trichology.edu.au notes that a “trichologist must decide if treatment is necessary and whether the problem is within his or her realm to treat, or should be dealt with by another specialist. Treatment by the trichologist might consist of the application of a particular cream or lotion to the scalp or the use of nutritional therapy.”

Trichology consultations vary depending on the type of training and experience of the trichologist. Do your research by reading reviews or ask people if they can recommend a trichologist to you.

Have you ever had to see a trichologist? What was your experience during the consultation? 

Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist.

Don’t Want to be a Hairstylist? Try Trichology
Photo Courtesy of Keshia Langevillier

As hairstylists, we need to be educated in trichology, so that we feel knowledgeable and confident addressing scalp problems that arise in our clients. When clients ask about hair loss and scalp irritation, you want to correctly answer their questions instead of covering up the problem with a nice style. While deciding whether a trichology certification is worth the investment, consider these three benefits.

You will learn how to diagnose different types of hair loss

When a client has a bald patch, you can now diagnose the problem. The first question patients usually ask is whether the condition is permanent. Through the trichology certification program, you will be trained to examine the scalp and learn how the skin looks when follicles are present. If you see follicles, you know the hair can grow back. When follicles are not present and destroyed, the skin will look shiny and feel smooth. Then, you will have to gently explain to the client that the hair loss in the area in question is permanent or refer her to a dermatologist for medical treatment not within your scope.

This process sounds easy, but there are various types of hair loss that look the same on the scalp, especially scarring alopecia. Being a trichologist enables you to learn the signs and symptoms of each one, so that you can give your client a proper diagnosis. Giving your client more accurate answers will help them leave the salon with dignity instead of feeling hopeless.

You will be trusted as a hair and scalp expert in the industry

Your certification will encourage people to listen to your recommendations and seek you for qualified advice about hair care. Dr. Kari Williams says, “Trichology distinguishes you from your peers and opens up more doors of career opportunities that will take you beyond the chair.”

Because hair loss is so specific, other hairstylists or medical professionals will send their customers to you for help, because they know trichologists have a deeper understanding of scalp problems and when possible can offer treatments to restore hair. You can be featured on TV, magazines, or blogs for your valued information.

Offer alternative treatments based on the needs of the client

According to Dr. Williams, “You can offer effective in-salon treatments that will address concerns of hair loss and scalp discomfort through homeopathic techniques enhancing who you are as a professional hairstylist.” You cannot treat hair loss based on a one-size-fits-all method.  You have to create treatment programs that meet the different needs of each client. Some of these treatments may include aromatherapy topical treatments, laser therapy, a massage, and supplements.

How can you get started obtaining a trichology certificate?

First, you need to research the trichology programs that interest you. Dr. Kari William recommends contacting the head of the program or one of the lead instructors: “It’s always nice to be able to talk to someone and ask questions about the program, its objectives, and what you will gain from taking their course. There are so many new programs being developed as well, so take your time to compare what the courses are offering. The most important thing you want to get from a program is the ability to take what you’ve learned and apply it in the salon setting. Another option you have is to check to see if the program has some form of accreditation through a school or medical association.” Dr. Williams currently offers an online trichology certification course for salon professionals. You can learn more about the program by visiting www.trichologycertification.com. 

What You Need to Know About Silk Wig Closures vs. Lace Wig Closures
Lace closure
If you decide to get extensions using a sew-in technique and do not want to leave your own hair out, you can use a closure to cover the top portion of your head to achieve a more natural look. Although leaving out a portion of your hair on top looks more realistic when wearing hair extensions, you can cause damage to your hair trying to make it blend. 

What is a closure?

A closure is a small hairpiece or top unit that you can purchase ready to wear or customize.  Closures can be anchored on to the skin using liquid adhesive or double-sided tape for people with hair loss. They can also be attached to hair using clips or sewn onto cornrows. Other weaving techniques such as fusion, bonding, or micro links can be used to hold closures on to the hair as well.

What are the benefits of using a closure?

Using closures while wearing extensions gives you the option of installing hair that is a different texture or color from your natural hair. It will prevent heat damage you can get from flat ironing too often to blend it in with the extensions. You can try a new haircut or style without having to make extreme changes to your natural hair, because all your hair is protected and cornrowed underneath the install.

You can decide what closure to use based on the base material, which is what the hair on the unit is attached to. The most popular base materials to choose from are lace and silk.

Lace Closures

Lace is the most popular base material used for closures. Because the base of the unit is thin, it lays flat against the head giving your extensions a more realistic look. Because the lace is nude mesh, the color of your scalp peeks through to give the illusion of a natural part. Lace closures are available in different colors, which can help match the skin on your scalp.

There are two common types of lace closures.

  • French lace closure- is a thin, closely woven together piece of lace. It is durable, but also more noticeable than Swiss lace closures.
  • Swiss lace closure– looks more realistic than French lace, because the lace is thinner, but Swiss lace closures are delicate and easy to tear.

A disadvantage to lace closures is the alterations needed to conceal the way the hairs on the unit are attached to the lace. The hair is anchored on the lace with knots that you can see on the top of the unit. The knots create a grid-like appearance on the lace, making your extensions appear less natural.

To make the unit look more natural, you will have to bleach the knots of the lace closure to create a look as if the hair is growing out of the scalp.   If you do not bleach the knots properly, you risk the chance of ruining your closure or the hair before you use it.

Silk closure

Silk Closures

With silk base closures the knots are not visible, because the hair is attached to a silk material that has a nude color resembling skin. When you look at the top of this unit, it will look like a natural part and you will not see a grid that is apparent with lace closures.

The silk material is supported with lace material. Silk closures are more durable than lace closures and can last longer depending on what type of hair is used. You can pay more money for a silk-based closure, but if the quality of the hair is poor, your silk-based closure will have shorter use to you.

One disadvantage of using the silk based closure is that the base is a little thicker, so it will not lay as flat on your head as a lace based closure. Because the color of the silk material is nude, it may not look as natural on darker scalps, so you may have to alter the closure after all.

Have you tried using a silk based or lace-based closure? What was your experience?

Stylists, 6 Ways to Show Your Client More Appreciation
Hairstylists, it is important to show your clients you are thankful that they utilize your business.
photo courtesy of m-imagephotography – Getty Images

Your clients have several options in choosing which salon they could go to for hair services, so showing your appreciation for them will build loyalty and value in the business relationship. Here are six ways to your client more gratitude.

Serve refreshments and snacks

Serve coffee, tea, water, juice or wine to your clients waiting to be serviced. If it’s the morning, pastries and granola bars are great options as well. Some services in a salon can take hours to finish–a light snack or refreshment can make the long processing time of the service a lot more relaxing for the customer.

Give gifts or samples of products

Keep a record of your client’s birthdays or anniversaries. That way, you can send them a gift certificate or discount that can be redeemed at your salon on special occasions. For major holidays like Mother’s Day or Christmas, give your clients samples of a favorite or new product. Distributors always have samples of products that they are willing to share with hairstylists, which you could regift to clients.

Create reward programs

Happy clients love to talk about their favorite and talented hair stylist. Create a program that rewards clients when they refer someone to your salon or write you a nice review on line. Make sure to tell them thank you for the customer referral. Customers like when you remember specific details about them. It makes them feel like they are unique to all the other customers you service.

Send out thank you cards

Have your customers email or home address on file so that you can keep in contact with them and find out how they are doing. Send a card to new clients thanking them for their business. Ask the new customer what they enjoyed–or didn’t enjoy–about their service. Clients like when a stylist goes the extra mile to make sure they are happy with their total experience. Considering their opinion helps them feel special and gives you necessary feedback as a business owner.

Keep in contact with clients

Send out an email to any clients you have not serviced in a while. Tell them you are thinking of them and their hair. Keeping in contact with clients this way lets them know that you care about them and took the time to reach out even with a busy schedule.

Have a customer appreciation event

Organize an event fully dedicated to thanking your customers. Invite other businesses in your area to participate. Businesses that offer different services from yours would be a great way to help pamper your customers. Collaborate with a local nail salon to offer mini manicures or pedicures, a spa to do quick neck and head massages or an eyebrow bar to do waxing or threading services. This will help your clients feel exclusive and relaxed getting one stop services in one location.

Stylists, what are some ways you show your clients gratitude?

Although you may not be able to do them all, pick which options are the most suitable for your business model. These simple steps are just a few ways you can say thank you to your clients.

What’s next? 

Wondering why you might be losing clients? Read this.

Want influential clients? This is how to make every curly Instagrammer in NYC your client. 

Like what you see? For more articles like this, sign up for our newsletter!

Writer Sophia Emmanuel is a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist with a salon, Crown Worthy, based in New York City.

5 Resources Stylists Can Use For Continuing Education
Photo Courtesy of Susan Chiang — Getty Images

The beauty industry is constantly changing, so it is important for hairstylists to keep up with current trends in order to meet the needs of clients and use innovative products and techniques without compromising the health of the hair or scalp. These are five things stylists can do to learn more in their field to provide their clients with premium products and services.

Read trade magazines

A hairstylist can learn about new products and services from trade magazines. Magazines such as behindthechair offer webinars that are affordable and allow stylists to learn from home.  Webinars are a great way to introduce new techniques such as gray coverage or cutting textured hair. There are a variety of topics to choose from.

Attend advanced academies

If a hairstylist wants to increase knowledge about a particular product or get their hands on training in a specific area like cutting, coloring, or updos, attending an advanced academy can help. They offer fundamental classes for beginners and advanced classes for more seasoned professionals.  Modern Salon is a popular trade magazine that has a list of Advance Academies that hairstylists can use for guidance.

Hairstylists can get certified at academies as well.  A certification course offers the hairstylist everything they need to know about the product, service or technique. At the end of the course, the stylist will get a certificate. Brands do not always require stylists to take certification courses to use products, but it is encouraged.

For example, companies like Brazilian Blow Out offer a certification course to learn the proper way to use their smoothing treatment. The DevaCurl Academy offers certification classes for product knowledge, their curl philosophy, and cutting technique. Certification courses show that stylists took the time to learn that skill and have the knowledge to give clients the results they are looking for.

Attend hair shows

At hair shows stylists can purchase and learn about new products and take hands on classes. Hair shows like Premiere Orlando International Beauty Event are beneficial because they are an opportunity for hairstylists and cosmetologists to network. The Bronner Bros International Show is a great hair show that can help hairstylists expand their clientele.

Other hair shows include:

There are smaller hair shows that address specific techniques as well. For example, if a hairstylist wants to be an extension expert, they can attend the Extension Expo which focuses on hair additions. Digital downloads can also be purchased from digital.mekasbeauty for safe innovative techniques for extension installations.

Another show that caters specifically to the interest of the stylist and helps with specializing is the Color Cut and Style Show by behindthechair. These stylists are extremely knowledgeable on everything related to color techniques, new products, and color trends.

Ask distributors for continuing education information

Hairstylists can ask the distributors that supply their products about advanced training classes.  Distributors have a wealth of information about products and classes, because they work directly with the brands. Companies such Cosmoprof have class listings on their websites as well.

Use social media

Hairstylists can follow certain brands or educators that they like on social media to learn about trending topics and learn about specialty programs. Specialty programs can be done online for the theoretical portion, but the hands on part of the program requires attendance at an outside location. It can take anywhere from 1- 2 years to complete.

Stylists should follow brands that they use on social media to get a sense of their expertise and teaching style. Extended programs, such as trichology programs, can be costly, so hairstylists need to do as much research as possible to avoid wasting time and money.

Some trichology programs with social media pages are:

 Stylists, what classes or shows have you found most useful in your career?

How to Protect Your Hair Before Using Hair Color
woman with colored natural hair
Photo Courtesy of m-imagephotography — Getty Images

Protecting your hair and scalp while coloring can be a challenge, because there are ingredients in hair color products that may cause allergic reactions or skin irritations for some people with sensitivities. Keep in mind that what may trigger a reaction from color in one person may not be the same for another person. These are some things you or your stylist can do to color safely and protect your scalp.

Know how color works to get the end result you are looking for

If you want to change the color of your hair by lightening it, you will have to use hair dye, which has to be mixed with peroxide and then applied to your hair.   If you are getting a new base color, meaning the most dominant color you see after the artificial color is applied, your scalp may come in contact with ammonia, MEA, or monoethanolamide.  The ammonia and monoethanolamine found in hair dye open up the cuticle of the hair shaft, so that the artificial color molecules and the developer penetrate into the cortex layer.

If you feel like you may have a sensitivity to one of these ingredients, you can try an off-the-scalp application to apply color. These techniques can be used so that the artificial color does not touch the scalp at all.  You can apply color to the tips of your hair, midshaft, or bangs. Ombre and balayage techniques can be used, which are more freestyle color placement techniques that will not affect your skin or scalp.

Do a patch test if you are getting permanent color for the first time

This may seem like a waste of time but I recommend doing a patch test to make sure you are not allergic to any of the ingredients in the artificial color you are using. The test simply requires you to take the chemical color and apply a small amount with a cotton swab to an area like inside the fold of your arm, behind the ear, or the nape of your neck. Wait 48 hr. to see if there are any signs of redness, itching, burning, or rash. If you notice any signs of irritation, do not use the color. The slightest reaction is a sign to stay away from the chemical, because if it is applied to your scalp, it may result in a bigger problem.

Know how long the color needs to process

Depending on the type of color being used and the look you want to achieve, permanent color should process no longer than 30 to 45 minutes. Color can process longer if it is being handled by a licensed professional.  A chemical is being used to change your natural hair color, so it is important for the color to process and be removed immediately, especially if you have hair loss or other scalp disorders like dandruff and dry scalp.

Do not retouch or redo permanent color to soon

It is wise to recolor your hair no more than every 4-6 weeks if you are going to use permanent color.  Try to limit how often the hair dye is touching your scalp, which can reduce the chances of hair loss, hair breakage, dryness, and scalp irritation. If your color fades or your gray hair starts to show, use a temporary rinse or semi-permanent rinse to refresh your color or blend in gray hair until it is time to do a permanent color retouch.  Semi-permanent and temporary rinses are deposit only and do not need an oxidizing agent to color the hair. They coat the hair and are not damaging.

How do you protect your scalp while applying hair color? 

This Could Be Why You Are Losing Hair
Photo Courtesy of PeopleImages — Getty Images

Genetics, stress, diet, nutrition, medical complications, and environmental problems can influence hair loss. Loss of hair may also be the result of improper use of chemicals or styling techniques. The only way to be sure about what is causing your hair loss is to see a dermatologist or trichologist who can examine your problem and diagnose it. Here are some common causes of hair loss.

Traction alopecia

The most common hair loss is traction alopecia. Traction alopecia can cause follicles to close permanently. Once the follicles are closed, your hair cannot grow back in that area on the scalp. The scalp will look shiny in a severe case of traction alopecia and if hair is present, the hair will be shorter than the rest of your hair and sometimes can be very fine in texture.

Common areas of the scalp affected by traction alopecia will be the hairline, nape and crown of the head. This type of hair loss is caused by wearing excessively tight hairstyles, such as braids, cornrows, extensions, twist and any other style with or without hair added that adds excessive weight or tension to the scalp.

Wearing these styles can be done without causing traction alopecia if you go to a licensed professional that is trained to do the service without causing damage to the scalp.  The specialist will also give you pointers on best care practices for your scalp and the length of time the style can stay in your hair. The stylist will also be able to recommend the best technique for you based on your lifestyle or if you have a pre-existing scalp condition.

Medication

Can your medication trigger hair loss?  The answer is yes, but according to philipkingsley.com, “If you are prescribed a drug that lists hair loss as a possible side effect, please don’t panic. It may only have a slight effect on hair fall, and also may only affect a small percentage of people in this way. The list of drugs that can impact your scalp are vast due to reports being received over a long period of time, and also the fact that all reported instances of hair loss need to be supplied to the consumer. If you are concerned that a prescription medication is causing hair loss, talk to your GP and a trichologist.  The exceptions to this are medications given in very strong doses, or chemotherapy used in the treatment of cancer.”

Philipkingsley says, “Drugs used to treat cardiovascular diseases, such as hypertension, and to lipid (fats and cholesterol”> regulators can potentially cause extra hair shedding, they do not do so in everyone. Although the percentage of hair loss from many drugs is very small, it’s a factor to consider if you begin to lose your hair after starting a new medication. However, it’s important to realize that increased hair shedding usually occurs between 6 weeks and 3 months after starting a course of medication.”

Diffuse hair loss

When you start to notice that your hair is lot thinner in appearance all around the scalp, this could be a sign of an imbalance within the body. This type of hair loss is called diffuse hair loss or telogen effluvium. Your hair follicles do not close permanently and the hair loss can be corrected once the problem inside the body is treated or corrects itself. For example, some women experience excessive hair fall after pregnancy, known as post-partum hair loss. During pregnancy there are high levels of the hormone estrogen that promote hair growth. This happens because there are signals in the body that tell the hair follicles to stay in the anagen hair growth phase. About three months after pregnancy, in a result of the hormone levels going back to normal, the hair that grew in excess starts to shed. The hair loss takes about 3 to 4 months to stop by itself. The effects of pregnancy on hair vary based on the individual, because hormonal changes affect people in different ways.

Nutrition and hair loss

Nutrition plays a major role in one of the causes of hair loss. Philipkingsley.com notes that, “Hair is incredibly sensitive to internal organs. Your hair is the second fastest growing cell in your body, the fastest being your intestinal cells. However, unlike your intestines, hair is a non-essential tissue. Psychologically it is very important, but physically, you could easily survive without it. Your metabolism doesn’t prioritize your hairs needs, but instead aims to keep your essential tissues functioning first and foremost. This means your hair is usually the first to suffer from any bodily upset, and also the last to benefit from an improvement.”

Simply put, your hair is not an important tissue, so your body will not place the hair’s nutritional needs at the top of the list to address or fix. Make sure you are getting a balance of minerals, vitamins, proteins and complex carbohydrates to help hair cells to work at their best.

How to Wash Your Hair In A Protective Style
Photo Courtesy of mapodile — Getty Images

Washing your hair while wearing protective styles is important, because it creates a healthy environment for hair growth and minimizes the chances of you getting a scalp disorder such as dandruff, dryness, and scalp infections.

Which protective style should you wear?

The best protective styles I recommend for allowing you to cleanse the scalp properly are styles that leave your scalp exposed. This includes

  • cornrows
  • two-strand twists
  • flat twists
  • box braids
  • Senegalese twists
  • Havana twists

Talk to your stylist

You should discuss all cleansing and maintenance needs of your protective style with the stylist who created it. If you created the style at home by yourself, you have to research the best cleansing practices based on your hair care needs, technique used, and the overall style. 

Which cleanser should you use?

Cleanse

If you are looking for a quick way to cleanse your scalp while it is in a protective style or if you are in between shampoos, you can use Moisture Clenz by Taliah Waajid. Moisture Clenz is formulated with peppermint oil to soothe and cool the skin when it feels tight, itchy, or irritated. Peppermint oil has antiseptic and antifungal properties, which aid in preventing bacterial and fungal infections. Think of Moisture Clenz as a dry shampoo you can use to easily cleanse your scalp. I recommend spraying the Moisture Clenz onto your scalp and using a cotton ball to gently remove oil, dirt, and dead skin cells off of the scalp. 

Tone

Another way to keep your scalp clean with protective styles is to use Philip Kingsley’s Scalp Toner. This product is designed to gently remove oil and protect the scalp from harmful bacteria that encourages flaking. Philip Kingsley Scalp Toner has witch hazel, which acts as a very mild astringent. Menthol cools and invigorates the scalp while piroctone olamine combats yeast and bacteria. To use this toner, towel dry excess water from your hair and scalp and use the nozzle attached to the bottle to apply the toner to the scalp. Leave the product in and use it whenever your scalp feels irritated or dry. 

Moisturize
If you are looking for a product that can moisturize your scalp and contains ingredients that invigorate and help the scalp feel clean, try Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier Therapeutic. The glycerin in this product helps moisturize the scalp, the eucalyptus oil helps reduces dandruff and itchiness, and aloe vera soothes and calms the skin. You can use Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier Therapeutic 2-3 times a week as a leave-in treatment for your scalp. Simply spray the mist on your scalp and protective hairstyle. 

What if you have dandruff or a scalp disorder?

If you suffer from severe dandruff or another scalp disorder, try a protective style that does not require adding hair or leaving a style in for more than one week. Wigs are a perfect option for people with chronic dandruff, because you can take the wig off and shampoo your hair and scalp thoroughly. Make sure to clean wigs and clip-in extensions regularly, so that bacteria and yeast are not being transferred back to your scalp when you put your wig back on.