Search Results: Sabrina Perkins
Question
Is there a way to get my top curls as tight & curly as my bottom curls?
The bottom half of my hair is curlier & tighter than the top half of my hair. The bottom is like 3c & the top is like 3b. I’m sure you’ll be able to tell in the pictures [below]. I did notice that the curls are mostly straighter in the top half of the middle-back portion of my hair. (If that makes sense”> the top half, front curls are pretty curly but still not as curly as the bottom half. Anyway, is there any way that I can get all of my curls like the bottom ones? I usually deep condition & do a coconut oil treatment once-twice a month. Would it help them to do it more often? I love all of my curls but I just like the bottom ones more so I’d be a happy camper if I could get all of them like that. Thanks in advance!
Answer
I am happy you love all of your curls, but I get your plight. There are a few reasons why we have different textures on the same head; it could simply be DNA, but it could also be attributed to different types of damage to the hair. We manipulate the top or front of our hair the most, because we can see it. It just makes sense that we often have a different pattern at the front or top of our head because of this very reason. Here are a couple of easy fixes to get that front more like the back and middle of your head.
Create tighter curls
You did not share how you typically style your hair, but it seems you may wash & go. If so, the easiest way to get your front to mirror your back is by creating a tighter curl in the front. You can do this by placing the front of your hair in pin curls while it dries and allowing the back to hang naturally. You can also just scrunch the front more when applying conditioner and styler. Try Bantu knots in the front at night to give them a curlier look for morning. Try all techniques out to see which one(s”> actually do the job.
Create a uniform curl all over
This is an easier way to ensure all of your curls are uniform. Simply place hair in Bantu knots, pin curls, twists, or braids all over your head and release in the morning for a consistent curl pattern. You can also create smaller sections in the front of the head for even tighter curls where you need them the most and try the different techniques to see which yield the curls you like the most.
Either method will help give you more symmetry in your curls without using heat. Remember, if you want the opposite effect where you get the back looser to mirror the front, simply manipulate and detangle more so that it will start to loosen up some. Be gentle and cautious about how often you manipulate your hair, so as not to cause damage and make your textures even more challenging to blend.
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Traditional Locs
Pros
The most popular and most familiar type of locs, traditional locs, are usually slightly bigger than a pencil and can be started by anyone. They are considered pretty low maintenance. According to Fly Guy Locs (FGL”>, “[traditional locs] require a simple shampoo and retwist when done properly to promote the health and longevity of this particular loc technique. I’d say you actually can’t go wrong with it if you have a decent stylist that knows what they’re doing.”
Cons
FGL also gives his only cons to this method: “I would make sure you keep your hair and scalp moisturized but that’s about it. I’d say down sides maybe starting out but once you understand the process it’s not a real biggie.”
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Sisterlocks/Micro Locs
This uniquely beautiful style was created by Dr. JoAnne Cornwell back in 1993. The locs are created using a trademarked locking tool and technique. They are very tiny and uniform, taking a very long time to install.
Pros
Because the locs are so small, this is a versatile style and can be styled almost as many ways as loose natural hair. Only trained certified associate of Sisterlocks can install them, so you know you are getting it done by a professional. They almost look like loose hair and some prefer that looser hair look to traditional locs. They have pretty simple upkeep, as retwisting is required around every six weeks. This style is gorgeous and many prefer it for the versatility.
Cons
According to FGL, “There are serious downsides to this technique.” If done wrong, [Sisterlocks] can result in thinning, breakage, and or both not to mention a sore scalp.” You must have a certified Sisterlocks Consultant to install them after a consultation and the install can take a painstakingly long time. Straight hair is not going to cut it for Sisterlocks as you have to have some sort of curl or texture for the style to work effectively, and if you suffer from damaged or thinning hair, this may not be the style for you. This is an expensive install that can reach into the hundreds, and retightening, which occurs every 4 to 6 weeks, may set you back around $100.
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Organic Locs / Freeform
Freeform or organic locs are simply created by simply washing the hair and letting it loc naturally. Many consider these real locs and it is considered the first type of locking hair.
Pros
The greatest benefit of freeform locs is the simplicity and ease of use. Not much upkeep is required for starting them, as clean hair will lock or dread itself naturally. No special products are required like waves, so there is none of the product buildup that some have a hard time removing with traditional locs. This is an easy style to maintain that FGL feels, “As long as you have a good head of thick hair this technique is great.”
Cons
The name itself confuses some people and leads people to believe that there is no work involved. FGL explains, “Though most get it misconstrued that there is no maintenance with this style, there is actually some upkeep but a lot less than the other techniques. Structure is key but most free formers just let it grow, keep it clean, and separate the roots from time to time and that’s about it.” This is also a slow method, as it takes time for hair to lock and some strands grow outside of the locs. That’s when guiding the strands to nearby locs is a common upkeep practice.
Moisture retention
Ends are more susceptible to dryness when they are loose. An updo keeps most strands out of the exposure of those elements. Another factor is updo styles are easy to moisturize was some spritz of water and a favorite oil or condish-mix. Your mix is great for refreshing your updo especially at night and cover with a scarf for a shiny, moisturized style in the morning.
JD Winters shares a video with an updo bun (yes, bun can be updos”> that stays moisturized and can last a few days with proper nighttime routines.
Less friction
Less friction means less tangles, knots, and damaged strands. When hair is placed in an updo, it is not moving and should be fully protected. You receive less friction from other strands and from clothing and purse straps.
More frizz control
Frizz is monstrous this time of the year with the increase in humidity but an updo prevents frizz by keep hair up and out of the frizzing elements like humidity. One of the best ways to beat frizz is keeping hair up, especially when at the beach or somewhere windy.
Confessions of a Hairstylists shows how longer curlies can have a great updo that will be perfect for a night out, a special event, and all the while keeping hair fresh, frizz-free, and fighting off flyaways with bobby pins and hairspray.
Less shrinkage and tangles
Updo styles can be achieved on stretched hair or non-stretched hair. One of the best gifts an updo can give to your hair is helping it stretch or stay stretched, which fights shrinkage. Tighter curls often battle shrinkage and even though shrinkage is a sign of healthy hair, it can make some styles difficult to achieve. Updos keeps the hair stretched and free from tangles. Elongate your hair while fighting off tangles with a summer updo.
Great for transitioners
Transitioning hair can be problematic when it comes to hairstyles. Blending can be challenging when working with two different textures. Twist-outs, braid-outs, and roller sets are great for transitioners and updos are also excellent at masking several textures while protecting the hair. Limiting tangles and keeping your hair up is ideal for transitioning hair.
Here EbonyCPrincess creates a gorgeous and uniform flat twist style that will last for days, weeks, or even longer.
Low maintenance
Low maintenance styles are protective styles since they require little to no manipulation, leaving less room for damage. Updos fall under that category because they last for days and only require a satin scarf or bonnet at night to keep the style intact and to retain moisture.
Longer lasting style
This benefit goes without saying. Updos last longer than a wash and go, twist-out, or even a roller set. They are secured away from your clothing and the ends are not exposed, so you have a style that will last longer and look fresher.
TheChicNatural always has creative styles and this updo is no exception. She creates a sexy and long lasting bun-hawk updo on stretched hair that needs minimal upkeep. Added hair just gives this beautiful style some flair and a satin or silk scarf can maintain its sleekness.
Great for breathing life into older styles
Many curlies deal with a period when their hair is not dirty, but the style has gone flat. Your twist-out or wash and go has lost its luster and you are nowhere near wash day or you just do not have the time to wash it. An updo is the perfect style to change up your old style and give you some life until washday.
Angela Lauren shares a quick and sleek updo that is created on an old style and breathes new life into it. This updo is perfect for humid days that have ruined your old wash and go or twist-out.
We realize that many curly products are more expensive than products that appeal to the masses. With a greater focus on quality ingredients that are oftentimes organic and ethically produced, it is understandable that some brands need to charge a premium, but this can be prohibitive for many people who are caring for their hair on a budget.
One of our readers recently raised this same concern in our Curly Q&A section. Curly girl lfeomv is a pre-teen and lives in an area where curly hair isn’t prevalent, so she is up against some barriers and we wanted to help her out. But these tips are also relevant to anyone who is looking to cut costs when it comes to their hair.
Natural hair does not have to be expensive! With a little bit of creativity, you can achieve the moisture retention and hair health.
Question
How to take care of my 4c TWA (no/low budget”>, I’m only 12 years old. I did my BC 10 months ago, even though my mom didn’t want me to go natural. Every week I wash my hair with shampoo (not sulfate-free”>. I don’t use conditioner. Then I use (EVO (it ran out”> and”> a pudding by African pride and detangle my hair with a wide tooth comb. I rarely deep condition (DIY: Egg/Yoghurt/banana, Honey, olive oil”>. I moisturize my hair daily with water and seal it with EVO. I do just use what is at home. I don’t get pocket money, so I can’t buy products. I live in Germany in a small town too, and there are no products for natural hair. Atm (at the moment”> I protective style. I took my braids out one week ago and I will install a weave next month. My hair is naturally dry and I have a lot of breakage (I have never trimmed my ends in my whole life, my mom just don’t know about it”>, but it grows anyway
I just don’t know what to do. Any suggestions?
Answer
First off, congratulations on taking the plunge into wearing your natural hair. Secondly, there are a few things you need to do that shouldn’t cost you too much or at the very least cost the same when you trade them in for your protective style.
Make your own cleanser
Instead of buying shampoo, you can make your own cleanser using ingredients you probably have in the pantry already. The money you spent on weaves and braiding hair can also be used for ingredients at the grocery store to create your own hair care products.
Baking Soda Rinse
- 2 cups warm water
- ½ cup baking soda
Allow mixture to dissolve and make sure it is smooth and not gritty. Massage into hair and scalp to cleanse and rinse well after. Now you are ready to condition your hair.
You must use a conditioner!
Sorry but you cannot miss this important step and not using it is probably one of the primary reasons you are experiencing so much breakage. Conditioner is necessary to repair the hair from the damages your hair experiences and it makes hair soft and manageable. I have a few recipes below that you can try. Since you are using a shampoo with sulfates you must use those conditioners to replenish your moisture levels.
Honey EVO Conditioner
- 1/4 cup of honey
- 1/4 cup of olive oil
Mix the honey and olive oil before melting in microwave. Apply to head and cover with plastic cap for 15-30 minutes. Rinse out and style as usual. You can replace the olive oil with coconut oil and have a whole new deep conditioner.
Deep condition
Deep conditioning is a necessary step in keeping hair healthier from all the damage it incurs from the elements like sun, wind, and pollutants. Deep conditioners nourish the cuticle and some penetrate the hair shaft with longer lasting effects than daily conditioners. Deep treatments will keep hair soft and temporally fix the damaged areas. It is necessary to close the cuticle and rebuild cuticle after you shampoo.
Here is another recipe that will help you take care of your hair on a low (or no”> budget. The conditioners and hair masks will help keep hair nourished and fight off that dryness you feel in your hair.
Banana hair mask for damaged hair
- 1 ripe banana
- 1 tbsp. olive oil
- Blender
Place the banana in the blender and grind into a smooth puree. Add the olive oil to the smooth banana and blend again until it turns into frothy and creamy. Use a mesh strainer to remove chunks. Make sure it is smooth, as you do not want lumps in your hair. Apply to freshly washed, wet hair and cover with a plastic cap, so it will capture the drippings. Keep the mixture and the cap on your head for 30 min. before rinsing well and style as usual.
Save up for a styler
See how these recipes work on your hair before trying a styler. You are not currently using one, so maybe you will see a huge difference and not need to try one just yet. The money you save on cleansers and conditioners may give you the chance to ask your mom for a curly styler if they are available at local stores or online. You can still braid your hair, put it in puffs, ponytails, or try twist-outs. If you want to use a protective style like braids or weaves, you will be protecting your hair with the proper foundation of washing and conditioning to keep your hair healthy under the styles. Remember to always care for your hair when in a protective style and that dryness and breakage should start going away.
Eat a healthy diet
Eating a healthy diet has a significant impact on your hair health, so make sure you are eating fruits, vegetables, and drinking plenty of water. Make sure you are paying attention to what you are eating and make sure to drink a lot of water to keep yourself and your hair hydrated.
Do you have low budget tips for caring for your hair? Tell us below!
Hair butters
Hair butters are amazing, moisturizing sealants often used for protective styles and in cooler months. While they may have some moisturizing ingredients, they are better suited for sealing in the moisture from water or water-based products like moisturizers, leave-in conditioners, or conditioners. They are usually the last step or used right before your styler. Not only do they lock in your moisture, they also prevent moisture from getting in after you add the butter. Stick to using butters for sealing purposes and you cannot go wrong.
Adding moisturizers to dirty hair
No moisturizer in the world will work if it is applied to dirty hair. You have to remove all the pollutants and products from the hair so it can absorb and adsorb moisture. This is why clarifying shampoos are a must to ensure all traces of dirt and products have been removed and then your hair can be ready for conditioning and moisture. Shampoos are not popular in our community, but they are necessary so we can properly keep hair healthy and hydrated.
Oils
Many incorrectly associate oils with moisture, but oils, especially carrier oils, simply seal the hair to lock in moisture you have already applied. A select few oils are capable of penetrating the cuticle layer and nourishing the entire hair shaft, such as coconut oil, avocado oil, and olive oil, but many will simply sit on top of the hair. Before applying an oil, do your homework to learn if it is one that actually penetrates the hair shaft. We published a list of moisturizing oils, sealants, and sealants that impart a little bit of moisture here.
Styling products
We curly girls love our stylers and if it wasn’t for my Holy Grail gels, I would be a frizzy fool, but do not assume that they are moisturizing enough to apply alone. Your styler may have some moisturizing ingredients, but their primary function is to give hold. Curly hair needs all of the moisture it can get, so apply a leave-in before you apply a styler.
Proteins
Our hair is made of hard protein keratin and needs hydrolyzed protein to fill in the damaged hair cuticles, but what protein does not do for our hair is moisturize it. They are used to rebuild and strengthen hair, not moisturize. You need a proper balance between proteins and moisture for healthy hair, and that requires two different types of products. Never assume a protein treatment will add moisture or you may end up using them too often, which can lead to dry, brittle strands.
Loading up on silicones
There is a love/hate relationship between many curlies and their silicones. We have been told they are the devil and will cause buildup, but it is just non-water soluble silicones that cause that problem. Many curly girls use and love water-soluble silicones. Water-soluble silicones like dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate provide great benefits to our curly hair and are able to be removed without using harsh sulfates. The problem lies in the belief that since these silicones provide great slip to hair, they actually moisturize hair by making dry and damaged hair look and feel healthy and smooth.
Know that the sole source of hydration is water. Humectants help to attract moisture, oils and silicones can help retain it, and protein reduces moisture loss by temporarily repairing the hair shaft. Water-based products are your best friends, ladies. Don’t forget to read your labels, especially for moisturizers, refreshers, and leave-in conditioners.
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Frustration and hair can sometimes commingle, as curly, coily, and wavy hair has its ups and downs. Right now I am weak from just washing my hair. Washing my hair! The tangles were brutal but my pre-poo prevailed and diminished them as best they could under my neglectfulness the past two weeks. Quite often the frustrations that surround curly hair come from tangles but not always, and those frustrations are not all universal. We all have our own struggles, but here are five of mine that almost drove me to a buzz cut.
When my hair had no shape
My crown is flat like a plank and it drives me nuts! I’ve never liked layers when my hair was relaxed, but it took me a while and a trip to a curly stylist to determine my hair was without any style. Why did I need a style? Because I was sick of my flat crown and lifeless hair. I was so close to chopping it all off before I channeled that frustration into action and accessed NaturallyCurly’s Salon Finder and found the right stylist for me. I now have layers that give me volume and height and am very thankful for not having to cut all my hair off to get it.
When my ends were super raggedy
Now, raggedy ends warrant cutting, but I was considering chopping it all off because when my hair was in a curly state I had no idea it was just my ends that were the problem. I also did not know that my increase in tangles and knots were being caused by my ends, and that nothing else was wrong with my hair. I have since learned this was the problem and go for bi-annual trims, but when you are knee-deep in tangles you just want it all gone.
When I’m super stressed
First off, never make life changes when you are stressed. You are not in your right mind and you make hasty decisions you may regret. Stress adds no favors to our lives and that includes our hair. I experience excessive shedding after stressful times in my life, but I can also suffer from frustrated choices. My last stressful encounter had me really thinking about cutting all my hair off just to make my wash days easier. My wash days were not the problem. The source of my stress was the problem and when I realized that I nixed the haircut idea.
When I thought about going back to relaxed hair
I had a weak moment right before I started caring for my natural hair. I had damaged my hair over a three year period from neglect and wearing wigs and braids nonstop. This was over eight years ago, and while the natural hair movement was in full swing, I was not yet a part of it. I had enough, so I scheduled an appointment with a stylist to perm my hair. I showed up to my appointment late, as I got lost and she refused to service me. I was devastated. What was I going to do? I was caring for my hair properly and had no clue what to do. While I immediately wanted to chop it all off and start over, (whatever that meant”> I instead turned my frustration to the internet and looked up how to care for non-relaxed hair.
That stylist saved me and so did the internet, because I have been natural for 11 years this September but have been caring for my coils properly for eight years. Frustration does not always lead to disaster and quite often leads to brilliance and a conversation with oneself on what is actually important. I remembered when I left that shop and when I stared into that mirror that I did not want to use chemicals any longer and it was time for a change. I did change and channeled my frustration into a lifestyle change that I am loving!
Hair that has been colored permanently requires special treatment, because the chemicals used to alter your hair color are quite harsh to the strands. You are exposing your hair to ingredients like:
- Ammonia/ammonium hydroxide – which opens the cuticle layer so color can be deposited, increasing their hair’s porosity
- Ethanol alcohol – which is used in the dye absorption process, which can dry out your hair
- PPD (para-phenylenediamine”> – which is a pigment used to create darker shades, and it may cause skin reactions
The effects of coloring or lightening hair
While not all hair dyes contain these ingredients, many do and there is some cause for concern regarding potential damage to your hair and scalp. Permanent hair color, especially bleach, changes the hair structure to make the color changes. It makes your hair drier, more porous, brittle, and harder to moisturize, but there are products and techniques that can increase the hair’s moisture retention and lessen the damage of permanent color.
We suggest using color-treated products to keep color from fading and keeping strands moisturized. If you are for more natural or prefer DIY methods, we have a few DIY natural remedies to moisturize your color-treated strands. You will be surprised that half of them are simply things you need to steer clear of to keep your strands at optimal moisture.
Don’t shampoo too often
Shampoos are designed to remove dirt and pollutants, but they also strip the hair of dye pigments. This happens because once hair is colored, it becomes more porous, and higher porosity hair has trouble with maintaining moisture. Shampoo only when necessary and steer clear of clarifying products if you can.
Don’t let the sun dry you out
Protecting hair from the sun should be a concern whether you have color or not, and the UV rays have no mercy on color-treated strands. They fade color and dehydrate the strands, and while many products offer UV protection, hats, turbans, and scarfs are even more effective – and they’re stylish. Most of us have them anyway so pull one out of the closet and protect your hair.
Don’t overdo the heat
Heat styling tools should not be used often (or at all”> with color-treated hair. Direct heat can also strip hair of vital moisture, increasing the risk of heat damage. If you must use direct heat, make sure to use it on a heat setting that is appropriate for the width of your strands (fine, medium, or coarse”> and apply a heat protectant first.
Do an avocado treatment
Avocados are rich in proteins, fatty acids, and vitamins and are an excellent emollient. They have exceptional benefits for dry, color-treated strands. Just puree one ripe banana (or banana baby food”> and one avocado into a smooth paste. Apply the mixture to your hair, allow it to sit for 25-30 minutes, and rinse completely.
Do eat a healthy diet
Eating a balanced meal will always help in keeping hair healthy and looking great. Foods like fish, lean meats, low-fat cheeses, egg whites, soy and spinach provide nutrients, vitamins, and fatty acids that keep your hair in its healthiest condition. Do not rely solely on hair products to give you healthy hair.
Do hot oil treatments
Hot oil treatments are useful for adding shine and moisture, which color-treated hair can be lacking. Incorporate a hot oil treatment with one of these popular oils about three weeks after your color application to increase hair’s shine, moisture retention, and prevent dryness.
The difference between permanent color & hair glaze
What is a hair glaze?
Hair glaze simply coats the hair shaft to deposit semi-permanent color and add shine. There is no hair shaft penetration, because they do not contain peroxide (unless specifically stated it does”>, so damage is minimal to none.
Benefits to hair glazing
- No long-term commitment, as it washes out in a few washings
- No root touch-ups for grays, because color just fades away and does not need to grow out
- No harsh chemicals on the hair (if using a glaze without peroxide”>
- Great for persons with damaged hair who still want color
- No special products need to be purchased to keep the color from damaging hair
What is permanent hair color?
Just as it sounds, permanent hair color means changing the pigment of your hair permanently. The only way to remove this color is to cut it off or allow it to grow out. The hair is colored through oxidation. An oxidizer like peroxide is mixed with ammonia and applied to the hair. The color lifts the hair shaft and adds the color to change the natural pigment of your hair. It is much stronger than semi-permanent and a hair glaze.
Benefits of permanent hair color
- There is no washing out of this color however the color can fade if not protected.
- Longer lasting color as it needs to be cut out or grown out.
- Excellent at covering grays as semi-permanent is not strong enough to cover at all or for long.
- A wide-range of permanent colors and has more natural-looking colors.
- Do not have to apply as often as other coloring systems.
How to prep for both
According to Janeise Alexander, owner of J’Das Studio For Hair in Oakland, there is a big difference in preparing for a glazing in comparison to permanent hair color. Janeise explains: “There are many types of hair glazes! There is no prepping that a client needs to do for glazes that contain no peroxide. For the glazes that contain peroxide, as well as permanent color, clients need to prepare to keep their hair and scalp manipulation free for at least 24-48 hr. before a service! The hair should not be shampooed prior to, as this could cause irritation to the scalp.”
Both services should be done on healthy hair with clean ends. You can also prep hair for color by getting a trim, trying a protein treatment, and deep conditioning in the weeks prior to the service. Hair color looks better on healthy hair and color with peroxide and ammonia are harsh, so not to add more damage one must make sure hair is in optimal shape. You also need to keep hair healthy after the color by using moisturizing or color-treated products, as they are specifically formulated to help hair that has been colored.
Which do you prefer, a hair glaze or permanent color?
,0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15″>; margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% – 2px”>;” data-instgrm-version=”7″>Finding the perfect routine or technique for frizz-free curls is not as easy as some make it out to be. A lot of what we do as curly girls is learn a new technique and then troubleshoot the issues that come up. That is the perfect time to head over to our Curly Q&A like cindy1 did and ask your burning questions about any technique and what steps you need help with.
Question
After you Squish to Condish should you still use a leave in conditioner?
Answer
No, it is not a necessary step and let me tell you why but first, let’s explain the Squish to Condish method first.
What is the Squish to Condish method?
The Squish to Condish method was created by Melissa Stites, a NaturallyCurly veteran who wanted to show curlies how to get hydrated hair without using a ton of conditioner. To get hydrated and frizz-free curls, you start with freshly washed, soaking wet hair, bend forward in the shower, and apply conditioner evenly throughout your hair. As you rinse, take the conditioner and water that drips into your hands and squish them back into your curls. You may need to add some conditioner, but the object is to keep squishing the conditioner and water to fully hydrate your strands until hair stops dripping.
Here is an excellent video explaining and showing you how to do it.
Do you need to add any leave-in conditioner?
No, because the method gives hair enough conditioner and water to properly condition the hair and work as a leave-in conditioner. Actual leave-in conditioners may not be thick enough to use in this method, since it is already thin and may not be as effective with added water from the shower. Your hair after this method is primed and ready for a styler. Many want to preserve the optimal clumping that has occurred in the shower after they squish and condish. Consider plopping your hair before or after applying gel to see what works best for your curls.
Now, if you try this method without the leave-in and feel it is not working, then by all means try a leave-in conditioner. The point to remember whenever trying new methods is that they can always be altered to suit your needs. Make sure to give yourself plenty of tries before altering a routine, as you want to give it a chance to work before making a hasty decision.
Trying any new technique or product requires a few tries attempts. When you use too many new products or techniques at once you run the risk of not knowing what is actually working or what is causing problems.
Question
What is the fastest way to healthily grow hair long?
Answer
There is no fast way to grow long hair. While there are plenty of products that make claims about increasing growth, this list is what you should really focus on for healthy hair growth.
1. Eat a healthy diet
Eating a balanced diet with the right mix of proteins, iron, and other nutrients can aid in hair health as well as the look and feel of one’s hair. Eating balanced meals provides your body and your scalp with all the nutrients it needs to produce strong, healthy hair. The real dealbreaker when it comes to long hair is length retention.
2. Exercise regularly
Exercise is a big component of a healthy body (following a healthy diet”>, as it flushes out toxins through sweat, giving us fresher and more radiant skin. That same sweat gets removed from our scalp and that helps to unclog hair follicles and increases blood flow to our skin and scalp. Increased blood flow brings more nutrients and oxygen to our roots and nourishes them. This promotes healthy hair growth.
3. Limit your stress
Stress can cause many conditions that lead to hair loss and I know this firsthand. Whenever I am going through a stressful time in my life, I know that within 2-3 months after the incident, I will have massive amounts of hair shedding. The stressful time causes a change in my body’s physiological functions and causes a large amount of hair to go into the resting phase. As a result, within months massive amounts of hair sheds. I bet many of you are having an aha moment right now as you think back to some unusually stressful time in your life when you experienced a large hair shedding a few months later. Try limiting your stress as much as you can, whether that means meditating, taking out time for yourself, exercising, or just slowing down. If stress can affect your hair in this manner you can only imagine what it does to the rest of your body.
4. Cleanse your hair regularly
Clean hair is healthy hair. Dirty hair clogs the follicles with dirt, sweat, and product and can cause scalp irritations. The idea that dirty hair grows faster is a myth and needs to be put to rest! Washing hair regularly and using a clarifying shampoo when needed is an important part of any healthy hair regimen.
5. Keep your hair moisturized
Moisture is important in all hair types, but curly hair needs moisture, because it is prone to dryness and breakage. The sebum has a harder time reaching all the strands and is less likely to break and become dry and brittle. Hair needs hydration to retain more length applying and oil helps to prevent breakage.
6. Limit your use of heat
If moisture is our hair’s life’s blood, then heat is our hair’s enemy. Heat styling can cause irreversible damage. Curly girls should be using direct heat sparingly as it can cause damage and dehydration. Luckily most, if not all, styles that require heat can be achieved through heatless styling methods.
7. Avoid chemical processes
Just as heat damages hair, so does the use of permanent hair color and chemicals straighteners. Chemical processes penetrate the hair shaft and lift the cuticle to either straighten the hair or color it, and as a result the hair becomes more porous and requires more attention to keep it healthy. No one is saying to completely ditch your options, but know that chemicals can weaken the cuticle and retaining moisture will become a harder task.
8. Get regular trims
Regular trims are necessary to keep ends clean and to stop raggedy split ends from creeping up the hair strands. The time frame is up to the curly girl, but color, heat styling, and frequent styling will require more frequent trims. Clean ends that are free from dryness and knots hold better styles and look 100% better than styles with raggedy ends.
Seem like a lot of work?
To some it is, but the fastest way to long, healthy hair is to have a healthy lifestyle free from illness and stress. Honestly, just work on your health and your hair will thrive.
Pictured: @mydiamondsandg0ld. Follow her on Instagram for more curly hair inspiration.
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1. Neglecting your hair
Neglect, laziness, or sheer stupidity is when I allow my hair to get so tangled and dry that I wish I could hire someone else to detangle my hair for me. There are days when I add no refresher, sleep with no protection, and continue this ugly cycle until I have a mass of tangles that require a lot of work to remove. I wish I could blame it on a good excuse, but I cannot it happens when I am just not in the mood for fooling with my hair and have no place to go. I lessen the problem by doing a pre-poo overnight and slowly detangle, but when I think about the trouble I usually put it off a few more days and make matters worse!
2. Not using conditioners with super slip
I have found my Holy Grail conditioners that give me massive amounts of slip and I even cocktail my deep conditioner with an elixir to help me glide through my hair. This has helped me on wash day to remove massive tangles with little to no effort. But before I found my winning cocktail of SheaMoisture Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Conditioner and SheaMoisture Reconstructive Finishing Elixir, I had the hardest time removing tangles from my hair on wash day. Another great product is Kinky-Curly Knot Today for extra slip, and I have found that it decreases tangles by 50%.
3. Not getting regular trims
There is a belief that curly girls do not need trims. Many curlies also avoid trims because they feel it hinders their and there is another hair growth. I am here to tell you right now that neither are true. On the contrary, whenever I let my ends grow raggedy or frayed, I experience more severe snags and knots. Avoiding trims will lead to a longer, more difficult wash day. Don’t do it.
4. Hand in hair syndrome
We all suffer from hand-in-hair syndrome from time to time. I for one find myself creating uneven Bantu knots or just twirling my coils around my fingers when watching TV. This is a big problem that turns my hair into a frizzy mess, or worse, creates senseless tangles that turn into knots. I have tried curbing myself of this bad habit for years, but it took one bad experience that ended in having to cut a huge, uncooperative knot out of hair to make me stop. Now, when I find myself absent-mindedly touching my hair, I remember the consequences I had to suffer from my actions and just leave my hair alone.
5. Borrowing hair when creating twists
Twists are a cute style that can be ideal for the winter months, especially when worn in a satin-lined hat. But be aware that there is a wrong way to create your twists.
Borrowing from the other side when you run out of hair as you twist is the quickest way to create tangles. When creating a twist or even a braid, make sure both pieces of hair are the same length and size before twisting.
I get regular trims, use amazing conditioners with slip, twist my hair correctly, and work hard at keeping my hands out of my hair. The only tangle-producing habit that I am still working on is neglect, and while it is happening less, it still happens. No one is perfect but when it comes to tangles, your bad habits are worth breaking.
What has caused you the worst tangles you have ever had?
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1. Applying products the wrong way
How you apply products matters. Everyone may be raving about a particular styler and how it gives them perfect hair, but if that same product is not working for you, it may be your delivery. If you use too much, too little, or do not apply correctly, you can alter the outcome of your style and hair. The amount and technique are essential.
What also matters is the order that you apply your products. For example, we know that if you use shampoo after you deep condition, you completely destroyed what the deep conditioner was meant to do. There is a science to the application process, and it is important that you master this. One popular way to do this is by following the LOC method, while others prefer the LCO method.
Before you toss your product and buy something new, try tweaking how you apply them. Apply less, more, or switch up the order in which you apply it.
2. Trying several new products at once
It takes time to see if a product will actually work on your hair or if it will give you the style you are trying to achieve. Weather conditions, the cleanliness of your hair, or even the mixing of product brands can alter the outcome of your hairstyle. Testing multiple products at one time will make it difficult to learn which you do and do not like. If you did not get the desired look or if your hair turned into a flaky mess, how will you know which product was the culprit?
Try one new product at a time to see what it can do for your hair and give it enough go-arounds before you decide if you like it. Keeping the rest of your routine consistent gives you the controlled variable you need for a successful test.
3. Blaming the whole product, when it’s just one ingredient
Some ingredients may not fare well with your particular curls. So while you may ditch the whole product, it may come down to one specific ingredient that your hair does not agree with. It would be a waste of money to continue buying products that contain this ingredient, and continually being disappointed by the results.
Pay closer attention to what does and does not work for you by looking at the ingredients list. For example, my hair loves non-soluble silicones at first, but over the course of several days I have noticed that silicones give me buildup and my hair ends up feeling sticky and weighed down.Trial and error is the only way to discover what your hair or scalp does not like. Keep a keen eye on products with similar ingredients that do and do not work well for your hair. Finding the common denominator will help save you time, money, and frustration.
4. Buying the newest, cheapest product
There is nothing wrong with saving money but make sure you are not hurting your hair in the process. Buying cheap products may actually end up costing you more if you do not do your homework. If I buy a cheap conditioner, more often than not it has ingredients in it that do not agree with my hair, so I prefer botanical products. Many of the cheaper brands will use cheaper ingredients such as mineral oil that may not benefit your hair in the long term.
Cheap is not always better, so do your research to see if some of those cheaper ingredients will work with your hair and if they do not, then pass them up and shop around.
5. Following the crowd
There is nothing wrong with trying a brand because your favorite blogger, vlogger, sister, cousin, or boyfriend’s first cousin on his mom’s side says it works great. Nothing wrong with that at all, but again, always do your research by looking at the ingredients list before you buy. No one has the same hair, not even family members, so do not expect what works for someone else to work for you. Pay attention to your hair and see what it likes and what it hates. Make sure the recommended product does not have those ingredients your hair hates, and if it does then do not waste your hard-earned money on it.
1. You have product buildup
You may be surprised to find this on the list since product buildup is most often associated with weighing hair down, but the problem with product buildup is that it can suffocate the hair and prevent water from getting in. The same problem occurs if you are not shampooing or cleaning the hair often enough, as the dirt and products coat the hair, causing all of the moisturizing products you apply to just sit on top of the strands. If hair is being starved of moisture, it becomes dry and brittle and can break.
Using products that contain silicones can cause this problem, especially if you are not using a clarifying shampoo to remove them. When hair stays coated with products for too long, moisture is prevented from nourishing the strands. Co-washing is a great option for many curly girls who want to cut down on drying shampoos, but an occasional clarifying shampoo is necessary when hair is heavily coated.
2. You’re not deep conditioning
Deep conditioning should be a staple on your wash day, but many rush through the process or even skip it entirely. The whole purpose of the deep conditioner is to make hair more manageable, softer, more pliable, less frizzy, and help prevent breakage. How can one product do all those things? The ingredients, that’s how!
A deep conditioner is a thicker conditioner packed with ingredients that can penetrate the hair shaft and temporally repair while nourishing the hair’s cuticle. Their very ingredients help moisturize and strengthen hair, and regular usage fights off dryness, which can lead to breakage.
3. You use oils the wrong way
There are a few oils that actually moisturize by penetrating the hair shaft, like coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and sunflower oil but most oils can only be used to seal. Sealing oils like avocado oil, olive oil, or argan oil simply seal in the moisture and soften the strands. Many confuse oils as moisturizers and simply coat the hair and leave the strands vulnerable to dryness and breakage. First moisturize the hair with a water-based moisturizer, then seal the strands to prevent moisture loss and avert breakage.
4. You dye your hair
Temporary hair dyes can wash out within a few washes with a lower risk of damage, but permanent hair color is an entirely different animal. Permanent hair dye makes hair more porous, as it has to lift the hair cuticle, with the help of peroxide and ammonia, and enter the cortex to lighten the hair’s natural pigment and then add the new color.
Permanent color can weaken the hair and make it brittle, which is why using moisturizing products or color-treated products are necessary to combat the ill effects of permanent color, lifting, and bleach.
Bleaching hair is the harshest act and can cause extreme damage and weakened elasticity. Whenever using permanent color expect some damage and focus on maintaining your moisture.
5. You wore a protective style too long
All protective styles have an end date or a timeframe when they need to come down. Going past that timeframe can cause hair to mat up, break off, or become severely dry, especially if hair is neglected while in the protected style. Depending on the style, it should be removed anywhere from a few weeks (cornrows”> to a couple of months (6 weeks or 8 weeks at the latest for styles like sew-ins”>. Hair also needs air and shed hair needs to be removed so keeping hair in the style longer than required allows for massive tangles. The difficult removal of those tangles can result in breakage. Adhere to the removal timeframe and make sure to keep hair clean and moisturized while in the protective style so that your hair is healthy when it is time to remove it.
Choosing not to stretch the curls leads to shrinkage, and potentially tangles. Here are four mistakes that you want to avoid for a tangle-free wash and go.
1. Detangling dry hair
Trying to detangle a wash and go when your hair is completely dry is curly hair suicide. Just do not do it. Always apply conditioner, oil, water or a detangler to help release the knots, snags, and coils from around one another before attempting to detangle. Even curlies that claim to dry detangle use some lubricant in the process. In my opinion, damp detangling works best, because a little water and conditioner makes your curls more pliable but not weak from the over saturation of water.
2. Rushing
Unless you are rocking an ultra-low TWA or have been diligently keeping your hair moisturized, trying to detangle your wash and go when you’re short on time is a recipe for breakage and frustration. It can take some time to properly detangle and if you know you have knots, snags or need a good trim, take out enough time to slowly and effectively detangle your hair, without yanking or ripping through your strands.
3. Detangling everything at once
Detangling your hair without sectioning it first is asking for tears. Dividing your hair helps when you are working with clean ends and moisturized strands, as the knots will be less prevalent in this state. Most wash and go styles will eventually have hairs that have coiled around neighboring coils, so just imagine the knots you will incur when you have not moisturized it in days, slept on it with no protection, and put off your wash day. The best way to combat this, is to divide your hair into sections and detangle them one by one.
4. Not using products with good slip
Slippery products help your fingers glide through your hair as you detangle. There are many products on the market that have been formulated specifically for detangling, but a good conditioner with slip or natural oils can work as well. The more slip your product has, the less work detangling is for you.
Looking for a slippery conditioner? Here are Amanda’s favorites: 5 Conditioners That Instantly Melt My Tangles Away.
To find the best detangling method for you, check out the pros and cons of detangling wet and dry.
In a hair rut? Follow us on Instagram for inspiration.
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From baseball caps to sun visors to floppy sun hats, the choices are endless – but they are not without their challenges. We worry about hat hair, fitting all of our loveliness under a hat, and whether the hat will damage our strands in the process. All are valid concerns, but there are ways to safely – and fabulously – rock natural hair under a hat.
Loose & Uninhibited
Kenzey Cooper is an up and coming curly-haired vlogger with huge hair and a massive personality to match. While many opt for toning down the hair under hats, she revels in the size and creates hat styles that cater to her hair’s big personality. Kenzey’s video shares not one but four very cute ways to cleverly wear a baseball cap. While these styles are demonstrated on long hair,they can also be tailored for the shorthaired curlies. These hat styles require little to no effort to rock and your hair does not need to be tied down nor braided.
Free & Protected
Heels to High Tops is a vegan, stay-at-home-mom who shares great hair tips with a toddler in tow. She has a life hack that makes wearing all sorts of hats easier: a satin scarf. The hair under the hat is tied down by the satin scarf and protected while the remaining hair peeks out from the bottom. There are no bangs or hair in the front with this style. This is another loose hairstyle and I wanted to show just how easy it is to rock your hair out while wearing a hat. The satin cap or satin scarf will keep your hair is smooth to prevent severe hat head and allow your hair to be easily revived with some quick fluffing.
Tied up & Twisted
AskpRoy just wants to have fun with her hair. Hair health is a top priority for AskpRoy so it is no wonder her hat style is one that completely protects the strands all the way around. Hair is flat twisted up from the back of the head to the crown with twists in the front. You have the option to wear the twists either tucked or unraveled under almost any hat. This style keeps the majority of the hair up while the front is the center of attention. This also makes it easier to wear a satin scarf to cover and protect your hair.
And remember…
As a rule of thumb, always rock a hat when your hair has completely dried. Since wet hair is weaker and more elastic than dry hair, any friction under the hat could lead to breakage. You also want to avoid mildew. Try and find satin-lined hats or try a satin scarf or bonnet under the hat to further protect your strands and know that the hat is helping your scalp from sunburn. Yes, our scalps can burn, especially if you have low density hair! Protection is key and it can be achieved with cute hats all summer long.
- stress
- medications
- hormones
- hairstyles
- diet
What you need to know about growth
Hair grows in four cycles. Anagen or growing phases last two to seven years and determine the length of one’s hair. Catagen or regression phase is next and lasts about ten days. This is where the hair follicle shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla. The third phase is the telogen or resting phases. This phase lasts around three months, and while this hair is resting, a new strand is beginning the growing phase. The last phase is the shedding phase and the hair finally detaches.
As we age the anagen phases decrease, but these phases are happening on their own time clock, so wanting your hair to grow is not what most people mean when they say that. What they really mean is they want to retain length.
What is length retention?
Retaining length means holding onto your strands longer without damaging breakage. This is how one obtains longer hair because all too often, our habits are causing breakage and in turn makes one think their hair is no longer growing. The object is to stop the bad habits so that hair is retained longer and you achieve the length you desire. Here are six helpful ways to obtain the length you are striving.
6 steps to stop breakage for longer hair
1. Damp detangling
Detangling comes with the territory if you have wavy, coily, or curly hair. Our hair coils around itself and can cause knots or tangles and often lead to breakage when trying to remove them. Some dry detangle and others wet detangle but for the most successful and effective detangling sessions, hair needs to be damp. Hair is weakest when it is wet so detangling saturated hair is allowing for more breakage despite hair being easier to work with. Dry detangling is an option many prefer, but you run the risk of snapping strands or even chipping away at the hair’s cuticle. I also hate feeling like I am ripping at my hair when trying to dry detangle.
How to damp detangle
Damp detangling is detangling dry hair that has been spritzed with water and applying a detangling conditioner or a butter to help soften the hair and add slip. This is the most ideal setting for hair as it is pliable enough to work in and remove the tangles but not too wet to make hair weak and susceptible to breakage. This allows for strands to retain their length and you will see a big difference if you feel you’ve hit a plateau.
2. Protective styling / low manipulation
The more we handle our curly strands, the more we can actually cause breakage. Even the routines we have in place to keep our hair healthy like shampooing or cleansing our hair is damaging. Curly hair needs less manipulation and the biggest reason many opt for protective styles or low manipulated styles. Those styles include updos, buns, braids and any style that tucks aways the ends of your hair, which are the oldest strands and often weakest strands on our head. Most styles that keep your strands tucked away from the elements, clothing, and you is a protective style, but never neglect your hair just because it is tucked away. It still needs to be washed, conditioned, and moisturized.
3. Regular trims
This point cannot be stressed enough. Holding onto raggedy, split ends is very damaging to the health of your hair. Regular trims keep your strands healthy and prevent split ends from spreading upward along the hair shaft. Allowing the split to get this point means that even more hair will need to be cut due to damage later down the line. I go twice a year for a trim, and I can always tell when it is time when my fairy knots are more present. As an added bonus, hair with clean ends always looks better and can hold styles better.
4. Stop heat styling
Heat styling is a dangerous way to handle curly, coily, and wavy hair. Even one application of direct heat can cause irreversible damage to the hair shaft. The protein bonds in the hair have been permanently damaged and you are left with weak, limp hair that cannot retain moisture. There is no cure for this and one can only cut off heat-damaged hair. Even with the application of a heat protectant, heat damage can occur, as heat protectants only reduce the chances of damage.
Flat irons, blow-dryers, curling wands and curls are all examples of direct heat and when set too high they can not only cause heat damage, but also dry out the hair leaving it vulnerable to breakage too. Curly girls should leave direct heat alone or use it sparingly, like a few times a year. While that may sound extreme, any style you want that you feel requires heat can be created with non-heat methods like roller wrapping, threading, or banding. It’s all about finding alternatives.
5. Keep hair moisturized
Moisturized hair is less prone to breakage. Dry, brittle strands are easier to break and have less elasticity, whereas moisturized strands are more pliable and less prone to breakage. You can keep hair moisturized by using moisturizing water-based products. I prefer good old-fashioned water for my moisturizing holy grail, but the balance between moisture and protein is vital for holding onto your strands longer and gaining length.
6. Regular protein treatments
There must be a proper balance of moisture and protein for length retention. From light protein-based products to heavy duty protein treatments, finding one that works for you is vital. If you manipulate the hair a lot, have high porosity hair, use heat, or use chemical treatments like color or straighteners, you will need to rebuild the hair’s cuticle with protein treatments. That can be monthly or every few months dependent on your hair’s health or hair care routine. I have high porosity hair but steer clear of heat and chemicals, so I have been using monthly protein treatments. Too much protein can lead to dry, brittle strands but too little can lead to mushy, limp strands too. Strong hair that has the proper moisture and protein leads to retaining your strands longer and gets you the length you desire.
Why DIY?
Whether you are a budget-conscious curly girl, a lover of DIY, or just want all-natural ingredient products, creating your own natural shampoo is a great way to know exactly what is in your hair cleanser – plus they tend to be less expensive. From natural oils, cleansers, and even natural humectants, your entire wash day can be simplified with just a few ingredients. We have three simple and inexpensive homemade shampoos that harness the power and potency of nature for moisturized clean hair.1. Coconut Milk DIY Shampoo
Coconut milk is extracted from a grated coconut and it is rich and creamy. Chock-full of vitamins it also contains iron, calcium, selenium, phosphorous, and magnesium and all are beneficial to your strands. Here is a simple shampoo harnessing the power of coconut milk.
- ¼ cup coconut milk
- ¼ cup liquid castile soap (Dr. Bronner’s is an inexpensive favorite”>
- 20 drops of your favorite essential oil(s”>
- ½ tsp. olive or almond oil (optional for severely dry hair”>
Mix all ingredients well and place into an old shampoo bottle or pump dispenser. Make sure your container is sterilized and it should last for up to one month. Shake well before each use, then condition and style as usual afterwards.
2. Baking Soda Shampoo + ACV Conditioner Rinse
This homemade recipe may not be the advisable for every wash, but if you want to stick to all-natural ingredients then this is a great option to have in your toolbox. The conditioning rinse helps to smooth out the raised cuticle and restore hair’s necessary pH balance.
- 2 Tbsp. baking soda
- 2 cups of distilled water
- 1 Tbsp. ACV
- 1 cup of tap or distilled water
Place the baking soda and a cup of distilled water in a sterilized old shampoo bottle or another type of container and mix them well, this will be your shampoo. Simply mix the ACV and a cup of distilled water and place them in separate bottle, as this will be your conditioning rinse. Shake the shampoo mix well before using and apply it directly into your scalp and hair. Massage gently for a minute or more and then rinse well.
Then shake the conditioning rinse and apply it into the hair, massaging it into your hair and scalp for a minute or two before rinsing well. This rinse will help restore the pH balance of hair after using the baking soda shampoo. Condition and style as usual.
3. Avocado Oil + Glycerin Homemade Shampoo
Glycerin is a natural humectant and avocado oil has a higher amount of monounsaturated fatty acids than coconut oil and grapeseed oil. It is an excellent moisturizer and when coupled with glycerin, it will bring massive amounts of moisture to your strands while you cleanse them in this shampoo.
- ½ cup distilled water
- 1 tsp. avocado oil
- ¼ cup liquid castile soap (such as Dr. Bonner’s”>
- 1 tsp. vegetable glycerin
- 1/8 tsp. peppermint essential oil
- 1/8 tsp. tea tree essential oil
- 10-15 drop of favorite essential oil for fragrance (optional”>
Mix all of the ingredients well and place them in an old shampoo bottle or another container. Shake the mixture well before each use before applying to your scalp and hair. Gently massage for two minutes before rising well. Condition and style as usual.
I am a huge fan of the Curly Girl Method and have been loosely following it now for over three years. The Curly Girl Method, which was created by curly diva Lorraine Massey and detailed in her book with Michele Bender, Curly Girl: The Handbook, is a unique approach to caring for natural curly, coily, and wavy hair.
This method is unique because it goes against what many of us have traditionally been told to do to our hair. This method shows how to properly identify your curls and how to cleanse, condition, and style your hair according to your curl. It also explains how sulfates, parabens, direct heat, and brushes can all be damaging for our delicate curls.Many curlies usually start using the method to the letter and then change it up according to their particular needs. I am no different, and while I no longer follow it to the letter, I follow the major principles and have found success with keeping my hair hydrated and protected.
To the letter (Full CGM”>
Of course you can use the method to the letter and yield amazing results. The problem with that is the limitations on products that some just does not want to adhere to. Not using shampoos or shampoos with sulfates only are not always going to be enough to remove buildup. With summer in full swing, chlorine and saltwater are also concerns for removal from hair completely. While the method has DIY remedies for chlorine, some feel better using products with sulfates and silicones.
Many usually start using the method to the letter and then change it up according to their particular needs.
Following the conditioning and styling only (Mostly CGM”>
I fall into this category more often than not, because while I truly hate shampoos. I understand their purpose in my hair care regimen. I use only botanical conditioners and sulfate-free shampoos or cleansing conditioners most of the time. When I need to remove some gunk from my hair or waited too long to wash my hair, I opt for that shampoo with sulfates or clarifying shampoos to really get the job done. This method is what a lot of curly girls end up being happy with because the method is somewhat stringent but leaves room for tweaking to find that sweet spot of hair care balance.
In theory only (Partial CGM”>
This method is for the curly girls who merely like the idea of the method because leaving conditioner in their hair gives them the hydration they need and love. It can simply be that component or the act of co-washing with a botanical conditioner or even just using a sulfate-free shampoo. One aspect has afforded them ideal hair but they still love using heat, silicones, and sulfates and their hair only needs one aspect of the plan. There is nothing wrong with this, as the method is a great one. The method can help in optimal curl definition and/or hydration and some of us just need a small part to keep our hair happy. I no longer have a problem with moisture or dandruff and that can be from either ditching regular use of sulfates or keeping conditioner in my hair.
The best way to see how this method works for you is trial and error, and while I suggest giving it a try to the letter, tweak as you go and see what works for you. Check out The Curly Girl Handbook to see if this works for you and know you can go hard or go soft on giving it a try.
