Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 8, 2015

What exactly is protein sensitivity?

We hear about being protein sensitive all the time but what does that mean? According to the Toxicological Sciences in the Oxford Journals, the ability of some proteins to induce an allergic reaction has been well documented and symptoms can range from mild erythema to acute anaphylactic shock. Some proteins are intrinsically more allergenic than others, and often when we think of protein allergies we think of food allergies. What about protein allergies or sensitivity to hair or better yet the scalp?

I went back to school and asked Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed. (chemistry”> about protein sensitivity to hair and she said it could be possible but most likely on the scalp where an irritation such as bumps or patches may appear. Many often just think of what protein sensitivity means for your strands, but your scalp can suffer just as much if not more if it comes in contact with an ingredient it does not agree with. Our strands can also have sensitivity to protein and the clue would be in the reaction to it during or after the application.

Just like overuse of a protein can make your hair brittle or dry, the wrong protein or a protein your hair does not agree with can have the same outcome. The only problem is that since products have so many ingredients, how will you know what is causing the problem? It could very easily be a combination of protein with other ingredients that your hair has sensitivity to rather than the protein itself, but the only way to determine what exactly is causing the problem is trial and error.

How to determine if you have protein sensitivity?

Just try products! If you are using heat and chemicals, or manipulate your hair often, then you will need some type of protein treatment, in which the recommended potency or application frequency would depend on the needs of the individual. Experiencing dry, stiff, and brittle hair after using a product with protein or high amounts of protein is a good indicator that too much in present in your hair, which compromises the protein and moisture balance. Too much moisture creates limp hair that is too elastic. More times than not your sensitivity is actually just protein overload. It should not be a daily application, so check the ingredients label, as products with protein or high protein contents should be monitored. There are several types of proteins in hair products.

Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work

Collagen protein will increase hair’s elasticity. Silk protein will strengthen and soften the hair. Vegetable protein can be easily absorbed into the hair shaft and attract moisture. Wheat protein is a moisturizing and strengthening protein. They all bring benefits to your tresses so read the ingredients label, be aware of what they do, and if they are in the top five ingredients then you know that specific product is formulated with a lot of them.

Read more: Top 20 Protein Rich Products

Reading the labels, keeping track of which ones your hair responds well or negatively to, and making sure you are not overloading your hair with proteins are the best way to determine if you are sensitive to them.

Are you protein sensitive? What are you favorite protein rich products?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 8, 2015

If you love taking a do-it-yourself approach, you are in good company. Lots of naturalistas create their own hair treatments at home and get great results for their curls, but there is one to stay away from for the sake of your curls. While DIY protein treatments are all the rage, they aren’t an effective means to an end for hair. Let’s take a closer look at why you may want to skip those DIY protein treatments.

What are proteins?

Medical News Today defines proteins as large molecules consisting of amino acids that our bodies and the cells within them need to function properly. They are important to our existence, as our body structures, functions, and regulation of the body’s cells, tissues, and organs could not exist without them! Proteins are made up of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. Amino acids are necessary in the body’s processes for healthy skin and hair, as they simply encourage the growth of stronger hair when in conjunction with a healthy diet.

What foods are rich in protein?

The obvious choices for ensuring your hair has enough protein through your diet are options such as lean meats, seafood, and eggs. These items are high in the protein your hair needs to stay healthy and strong. If you are a vegetarian, there are still ways to get that all-important protein. Protein can be found in legumes, lentils, tofu, black beans, and certain vegetables like broccoli and spinach. It should be noted that the best way to give your hair protein is through your diet as opposed to topical solutions because the body has an easier time absorbing proteins through natural digestion.

How do you get proteins into your hair?

The best way is through a proper diet but you can supplement through hair products, especially if your diet is not up to snuff. Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed. (Chemistry”> explains that proteins like keratin and collagen are extremely large and need to be broken down so they can be absorbed by hair. That process is called hydrolysis and cannot be done at home, but rather in a lab.

What is hydrolysis?

Hydrolysis is a type of chemical reaction where one reactant will create at least two (or more”> products and, according to Dr. Anderson, is a decomposition reaction. Water is used because hydrolysis literally means reaction with water. A larger molecule is cleaved into two or more parts by the addition of a molecule of water. Hydrolysis allows the hair to benefit from proteins by breaking them down so they can be absorbed and aid the hair.

6 Proteins that need to be hydrolyzed

Here are some proteins that are able to support the hair because of hydrolysis.

• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein will greatly increase the hair’s ability to retain moisture, add volume, and reduce hair’s porosity while improving its smoothness.
• Hydrolyzed Silk Protein forms a crystalline protective barrier because it is derived from silk, one of the strongest natural fibers in the world. It will improve your hair’s elasticity, resiliency, and increase the shine.
• Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a water soluble protein derived from soy that will strengthen and mend hair fibers. It increases hair’s ability to hold moisture while adding shine and smoothness.
• Hydrolyzed Milk Protein is a hydrolysate of milk protein derived by acid, enzyme, or another method of hydrolysis that moisturizes, nourishes, and improves the manageability of the hair while adding gloss and texture.
• Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein revitalizes hair’s natural protective layer while rebuilding its strength and returning the elasticity to the strands. The damages from harsh chemicals are greatly reduced.
• Hydrolyzed Collagen Protein derives from bovine bone and cartilage. This protein will temporarily bond to the hair and increase its resistance to breakage under tension.

Most proteins are too large to be effective, so hydrolysis is necessary for them to be broken down and absorb to your hair shaft, which is why the popular eggs and mayonnaise DIY protein treatments may not do what you think. It sounds complicated but the work is done for you in the lab when added to your hair products. It is a safe practice and widely used and accepted, so when you see it on a label know it is done to help strengthen your hair.

Products with hydrolyzed proteins

• Jane Carter Hydrating Invigorating Shampoo
• Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner
• Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment
• Karen’s Body Beautiful Hold It Hair Gel w/ Argan Oil

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 7, 2015

According to the University of Maryland Medical Center, Ayurveda is considered one of the oldest healing sciences that have a holistic approach to health. It is designed to help people live a long, healthy, and well-balanced life. It has been practiced in India for at least 5,000 years. It has recently become popular again in western cultures and is used to treat illnesses and maintain balance in the body, mind, and consciousness through proper eating, drinking, and lifestyle.

Our hair, which is a vital parameter of external beauty, can also benefit from Ayurvedic treatments to maintain its health and look beautiful. These time-tested herbal hair care remedies have been the backbones behind the healthy and long hair of Indian women. Whether dealing with scalp problems, nourishing the hair follicles, or trying to steer clear of sulfates, parabens, or ingredients you cannot pronounce, Ayurveda can bring health and beauty to your tresses. Here are a few recipes that are non-intimidating and quite easy to replicate. This is by far not an extensive look at all the Ayurvedic herbs, but if simplicity is your desire then these recipes will keep you on top of your mixtress game until you feel more comfortable for complex mixes. Good luck!

Ayurvedic Hair Shampoo

The main components of this shampoo are 2 part cleansers, 1 part conditioner, and 1 part liquid, usually water. Choosing your cleansers and conditioners to use is completely up to you!

Examples of cleansers

• Aritha (soap nuts”> is a natural cleansing agent and great for oily hair and will improve volume.
• Shikakai powder is a cleanser and mild conditioner that improves dandruff and promotes hair growth.
• Neem powder will help exfoliate, cleanse, and nourish the scalp.

Examples of conditioners

• Amla stimulates hair growth and will prevent graying while strengthening hair at the roots.
• Marshmallow root will nourish the hair follicles and scalp with its conditioning properties.

Mix 2 parts cleanser with 1 part conditioner, 1 part water, and 2 to 4 drops of your favorite essential oil (optional”>. Create a loose paste and allow it to sit overnight so it will absorb more of the water and create a spreadable paste in the morning. Too thick? Add a few drops of water. Massage into sectioned hair and allow to sit while cleansing the rest of your body. Rinse well. You can also follow up with an ACV rinse or just you regular conditioner.

Simple Marshmallow Root Rinse

• 1 cup distilled water
• 4 tsp. shredded marshmallow root

Ayurvedic Hot Oil Treatment

• ½ cup coconut oil
• 1 tsp. Brahmi powder

Warm coconut oil to melt and add Brahmi powder into the oil. Drizzle onto scalp, massage throughout hair, and allow to sit under a plastic cap for an hour or overnight.

For Absolute Beginners

If these recipes are too complex, then do not worry I have you covered. You can add a few teaspoons of Ayurvedic powders to your regular shampoos, daily conditioners, and deep conditioners to incorporate Ayurveda into your regular routine. For shampooing, add a 1-3 tsp. of one of the cleansing powders listed above to your current conditioner. For conditioning, add a 1-3 tsp. of one of the conditioning powders above to your current daily or weekly conditioner. This is a great way to slowly incorporate Ayurveda into your hair regimen and to find out which herbs you like.

Have you ever tried Ayurveda? Any tips for other Ayurvedic newbies?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 4, 2015

Product junkie I am not but at one time I guess I could say that I was. It was during the “what in the world is my hair doing and what does it need” stage that lasted for the first two years of me going natural and actually trying to take care of it. I was trying anything and everything that said it would give my tresses moisture, curls or grow. Sad but true. I was believing all the hype that was out there and then some.

*hangs head in shame*

You live and you learn and with going natural I learned a lot about myself and the hair product industry. The most valuable lesson I learned about the both of is that one of us has my hair and wallet at heart while the other is trying to make me and my dollars part ways.  It is OK…honestly because we all have a mission and the mission or the purpose of the hair manufacturers is to sell me their products but my mission or purpose is to use only the best for my tresses without breaking the bank.

Just like most naturals, over time you begin to look for pointers or hints as to what products will be good to try and others will need to be passed over. Hey, this technique cannot be mastered overnight and unfortunately, we have to figure it out for ourselves. We all have different hair porosity, genetics, and geographical locals and ages so that must be factored in when one goes looking for new products to try.

I have a few things that will keep me from buying a product and I am sure some of these may be on your list as well.

Mineral Oil

This extremely common ingredients in beauty products is derived from petroleum and may actually be contaminated with cancer-causing polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons according to this article on Livestrong. It also seals off the skin and keeps it from breathing, aggravates acne and can cause skin to age prematurely. Despite this pretty common information regarding mineral oil many products still contain it and many women actually love it. I am not one of those women so if I see it or another name it is used under like petrolatum or paraffinum I run for the hills. I have even stopped using body oils or any beauty products containing this.

Fragrance or Parfum within the first 5 ingredients

I always wonder what the heck are they doing up there in the first place. We already know the importance of the first five ingredients so when I see that perfume or fragrance is within that list that tells me two things. One, what smells are you trying to cover up and why do you need so much of it? I have only seen that a few times but in each instance I was quick to return that bad boy back to the shelf as I am not interested in much more in my first five other than water and natural ingredients.  #firstfivesnob

Unappealing packaging

Sad but true. If you want to bag me than have a pretty package and a pump.  I do not care for jar unless it is a deep conditioner (OK, AS I AM Coconut CoWash gets a pass because I love it but wish they would get it out of that darned jar!”> but if you have a boring package or it looks unprofessional than I may not even turn it around to check it out.

I love pastels and earthy colors and I do not like key words being plastered all over the bottle because often it is not within the first five ingredients and that irritates me. If I feel I am being conned, I will not even give it a chance so wow me but be truthful.

Scent

I must like the smell of a product if I plan on using it. Not every scent agrees with me and even if the whole world loves it, I need to love it if I will wear it in my head. I smell EVERYTHING I use on my hair. It must smell heavenly–that usually means a natural scent of an essential oil, butter, or a mixture and not a commercial fragrance. No sugary sweet smell because I do not want to smell like cookies, but anything in the nut or fruit family is a winner with me.

Non-natural ingredients within the first 5

I have been following the curly girl method for two years now and try and keep my usage of non-natural ingredients to a minimum.  My hair reacts better to natural ingredients and that includes fatty alcohols but when I see more chemicals than natural in the first five than I will put it back on the shelf with a quickness.  I know what my hair responds to better when I see a ton of herbs, oils and roots than without it so I will put that jar or bottle back on the shelf with a quickness if too many of the ingredients are foreign to me.

Price (sometimes”>

OK, I am far from rich but I am also not a starving college student. I often look back to a few months ago where I was with my starving college student daughter to get her nails done and I honestly did turn my nose up at the place she went to. When I was her age, I would have gone to a place like that as well because price was my main motivating factor but as we age we do tend to let price fall farther down the priority list on some things–mine would be pedicures, clothing and hair products.

I am not trying to put a hair product’s children through school but if I want it, like it or really have to have it I will pay for it. Now, there are plenty of products that are reasonably priced (although the term “reasonably priced” is subjective”> but if I want to try something and it is more than my staple products I will give it a try. If I am sold on the ingredients, smell, personal accounts and the product line than I may forgo the price but if it is too pricey and has other issues than it will stay on that shelf all by itself.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 31, 2014

My favorite time to be glamorous is when I receive my monthly pedicure at my favorite ultra plush spa that is close to my house and within my price range. Now, I am chatty. I talk and talk and talk! No one has ever accused me of being quiet and whenever I am quiet, people ask if I am alright. Despite that side of me, when it comes to my personal time I am a monk sworn to silence. I see nothing, I hear nothing, and I register nothing but the wonderfulness surrounding me. The room is dimly lit and radiates with soft nature sounds. I sit in my plush La-Z-Boy wrapped with warm blankets and my eyes covered with a soothing mask while the best nail technician pampers my feet and legs. I am in heaven for an hour and a half.

A few Saturdays ago I was in this state when I felt someone or something touching my hair. Now, I was nearing snoring mode while I was in la la land when I felt this abrupt invasion. I had to emerge from under my comfortable blankets, remove my eye mask, and look up to see who or what was touching my hair. There were two women touching my hair without consent and I was shocked, insulted, and even a tad amused. Shocked because…who does that? Insulted because I value personal space and amused because again…who does that? “Uh, baby…who does your hair?” said the first woman who looked about 60 years old.

I had to remove my eye mask, and look up to see who or what was touching my hair.

Looking perplexed I answered, “I do it myself.” The other woman who appeared to be 70 years old responded, “No, who puts your weave in?” She even seemed annoyed as if I should have known what they were implying. I am fully aware of what I was dealing with now and when I looked down, the nail technician stopped working and looked puzzled and apologetic. I readjusted my posture to properly address this inquisition. “I don’t have a weave. My hair is natural. I’m a natural hair blogger too.” Why I chose to add that tidbit of information baffled even myself, as if I needed to give an explanation for my appearance.

By now the room full of women were all looking around to see what all the commotion was about. I was slightly embarrassed to be having this conversation in a room full of strangers and even more embarrassed at my hair being publicly fondled. Again…who does that? The younger one pursed her lips, shook her head, and motioned for the other to leave. As the older one trudged on she said rather curtly, “I felt tracks so I know she’s lying.”

As the older one trudged on she said rather curtly, ‘I felt tracks so I know she’s lying.’

I was done! My jaw dropped, my eyes glazed over, and I felt immediate shame. Seriously? She felt tracks? I had not washed my hair in over a week, maybe she felt dirt. But never tracks! With all eyes on me and the nail technician smirking, I quickly reclined the seat, placed my mask over my eyes, and removed myself from what I just experienced.

Needless to say, I got a free pedicure and apologies out the wazoo. I was told that the offenders were aunts of a guest who was getting her hair done in the salon section of the spa and they wanted to know which one of the hairdressers installed and styled what they assumed was a weave.

Funny, sad, and too embarrassing for me to recount until now, and here I am still feeling slightly shamed after being called a liar. Tracks? When I mentioned this to my sister she said I should have cussed them but what was the point?

What is your mortifyingly, embarrassing natural hair moment?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 29, 2014

Where do lentils come from?

Lentils are thought to have originated in the Near East or Mediterranean area where they were once considered a poor man’s food. Lentils or Lens culinaris have been a source of sustenance for thousands of years. They are shaped like a double convex optic lens, which actually took its name from lentils. They grow two to a pod and are dried after harvesting. Mayo Clinic says lentils are in the same groups with beans and peas and part of the legume family because they also grow in pods.

What’s in a lentil?

Tiny but mighty, WebMD says these legumes are chock-full with protein, iron, zinc, and even biotin. They are a super food that is perfect for vegetarians and vegans because they are great source of protein. They also have folate, phosphorus, potassium, and fiber. Lentils contain the third highest amount of protein of any legume, following soybeans and hemp. The iron in lentils help the red blood cells carry oxygen and this is needed for proper hair growth and stronger hair. Lack of iron can lead to slower hair growth and even hair loss. WebMD also says that a deficiency in either potassium or zinc can actually lead to hair loss too, so it is mega beneficial lentils has both and then some.

Your healthy hair diet

Lentils are perfect for a healthy hair diet. I am jumping on board with them after trying them for the first time a few months ago at a natural hair event. They were amazing and had I known how nutritious they were, I would have already incorporated them into my diet. The massive iron-rich protein found in lentils are great for cell growth and that includes your hair follicles. Our hair’s structure is from the hardened protein keratin and without enough protein, our hair grows slower and the hairs that are growing are not as strong.

According to the Iron Disorders Institute, the iron found in meat (heme iron”> is more easily absorbed by the body than iron-rich plant foods, so finding plant sources containing high iron like lentils is important. The folate in lentils is a B vitamin that helps your body to make new cells and strengthen and condition the hair. There are several types of lentils, and while all are packed with nutritional punch, hulled lentils (red and some black”> have less fiber than varieties with the hulls intact like green or brown lentils. The most common are the brown, black, and red. The green and yellow are probably the most easily obtainable for recipes.

Tips on cooking lentils

• They do not need to be pre-soaked.
• Simply pick over and remove debris, rinse, and strain. 
• They can be cooked in water or broth. 
• They should be liberally seasoned.
• Great for soups, stews and salads.

Do you incorporate lentils in your diet?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 27, 2014

1. Going blonde can be expensive

There is upkeep associated with coloring your tresses regardless of the color, but with blondes you do have to worry about a few things that can create a very expensive venture. The touch-ups are anywhere from four to twelve weeks depending on your desired blonde and the health of your hair. New growth on blonde hair is hard to conceal, especially if your natural color is rich and darker. There is a lot of maintenance that goes along with keeping your blonde color rich and not brassy. That means you will need to increase your deep conditioning and protein treatments and purchase hair products that are formulated for color-treated hair to reduce premature color fading.

2. Properly prep your hair

I consulted with American Board Certified Hair Colorist and licensed cosmetologist Monae Everett on what is needed to properly prep the hair before taking the plunge. She says make sure your hair is in the healthiest condition prior to going blonde. Hair color can be treacherous on your tresses, so damaged hair is not a good foundation for adding color. She says to make sure to condition and moisturize your hair on a regular basis, so your hair will maintain its current state of good health. If you do not, then it will only worsen with the hi-lift color/bleach. Also, Monae suggests a tip that you can incorporate to aid in your hair’s moisture. Apply coconut oil to your hair immediately before going to the stylist. The coconut oil will act as a slight barrier and add moisture to the hair.

3. Ask for Olaplex

There is a new kid on the block allowing women to go blonder without compromising the integrity of their hair. Monae suggests asking your stylist to try Olaplex. Olaplex is a single ingredient chemistry that links broken bonds in the hair during and after chemical services. It makes the hair stronger than before and is free of silicones, sulfates, phthalates, DEA, and aldehydes and is not and never has been tested on animals. She finds this product will drastically help avoid damage during the coloring/lightening process.

4. Know the exact color you want

You and your stylist need to be in sync when it comes to going blonde. One woman’s blonde may be another’s woman’s grey or even red for that matter. A consultation with your color specialist is necessary to determine what is expected. There should be no surprises in the end. Also, not every shade of blonde will complement you. There are factors to take into consideration when going blonde because you do not want it to look unflattering. Your hair color should never be the same color as your skin because contrast between hair color and skin is necessary or you will look washed out says Kyle White, the lead colorist at Oscar Blandi Salon in New York City. Kyle says the most important factor to consider when choosing any hair color is skin tone, eye color, time of year, and even lifestyle.

5. Reduce frequent shampooing

As Kyle puts it, your scalp’s natural oils are Mother Nature’s deep conditioning. He even suggests trying dry shampoo since they will save your color, your blowout, and the overall health of your hair. All that shampooing will prematurely dull your color and even dry your hair! This may be a great time to incorporate co-washing into your hair care regimen to keep your blonde looking fierce!

6. Give it 48 hours

Yes, you want your hair clean but freshly cleaned hair is not the answer right before coloring. This will allow your hair’s own natural oils to help protect it from the damage, stinging, and burning. Deep condition (as always”> during your final wash prior to your color application and be kind to your hair and scalp by steering clear of tight hairstyles or bobby pins digging into your head.

What are your tips for going blonde?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 24, 2014

Red Palm Oil

Red palm oil is also known as crude or virgin red palm fruit oil and is one of the most nutritious, edible oils in the world. Doctor Oz says it is derived from the fruit of the oil palm tree or Elaeis guineensis it gets its name from the rich, deep red color in its natural, unprocessed state. According to Livestrong, red palm oil has been consumed for body and hair for over 5000 years and holds plentiful health benefits for both.

Palm Kernel Oil

The seed inside the palm fruit is the palm kernel and the source of palm kernel oil. Oilypedia says it should not be confused with coconut oil, which is extracted from the coconut kernel, despite it having more saturated fat. Along with being rich in lauric acid, palm kernel oil is a stable cooking fat that is resistant to oxidation and going rancid, so it works well in food manufacturing.

What is the difference?

They both come from palm trees, so that creates some confusion for many but that may be their only commonality worth mentioning. Red palm oil comes from the palm’s fruit while palm kernel oil comes from the palm’s seed. Over 80% of the fat in palm kernel oil is saturated compared to only 50% of red palm oil. Red palm get its color from heart-healthy carotenoids like lycopene and beta-carotene. Red palm oil also contains mostly palmitic acid and oleic acid instead of lauric acid like palm kernel oil, which is the reason for its lower saturated fat.

Which is better for healthy hair?

Not all natural oils are the same nor do they harbor the same benefits for your bodies. It seems that every week we are discussing a different oil that yields longer, stronger tresses, but some oils have do not have many advantages and should either be used sparingly or not at all for beauty. For hair, red palm oil has toctrienols, which are members of the vitamin E family and has been used for many years in treating skin ailments. It is also found in many anti-aging products. Livestrong says many shampoos, conditioners, and soaps have palm oil in them to remove oil and dirt from the hair and skin, which includes the scalp.

There is a refatting agent present in red palm oil that restores the hair and skin’s natural oils that many shampoos and soaps strip away. Red palm oil also provides conditioning and softening to the hair for its deep moisturizing properties. According to Livestrong, our hair needs fat-soluble vitamin A and vitamin E to nourish our hair and roots, which can come from the red palm oil through the beta-carotene after being consumed and converted to vitamin A.

Livestrong also says one of the biggest benefits of palm kernel oil is its completely cholesterol-free and many believe this makes it much healthier than butter. It has vitamin K, which is an essential fat-soluble vitamin for bone health. Vitamin K also resists oxidation under high cooking temperatures and upon storage, which makes it a more favorable cooking oil.

Winning convincingly for moisturizing, cleansing, and nourishing, red palm oil is the oil that will care for your hair compared to palm kernel oil. It seems it can benefit all hair types, especially ones who tend to suffer from the drying effects of shampoos. If loss of moisture is also a concern than this oil would be perfect as well.

Who has tried red palm oil or even palm kernel oil for hair, skin, or cooking?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 22, 2014

A new movie is coming out titled, Pelo Malo, where a “beautific-looking” 9-year-old Venezuelan boy is struggling with the dilemma of wanting to straighten his curly hair for a school picture.  Simple, a child’s truth, but there is so much more to it in this heart-wrenching fable by Venezuelan director Mariana Rondón.  Race, class, gender and beauty issues are on display in this movie set on location in a poverty stricken Venezuelan neighborhood.  During a sensitive time in our own country in regards to race and class this movie may strike a chord with many who find themselves grappling with their own social demons.

Such a simple request…to have straight hair, causes a whole host of reactions including homophobic panic from his mother.  There is one visually poignant scene in which we see the child with half of his hair straightened (and he does look like a pretty girl”>, and the image is powerful as he stares at himself in the mirror and one must wonder what is going through his young mind. You may be able to think back to a time in your childhood or, for transitioners or new naturals, even a year ago, when you were facing yourself in the mirror and wondering who you were and why you look the way you do.  Looking into your soul is a personal and terrifying experience that can awaken the real person who lives inside and is dying to come out, especially in a disapproving family, relationship or world.

This coming of age tale of a boy and his simple request is enveloped in perceptions of beauty, gender, sexuality and class.  His father is black and his paternal-grandmother seems to welcome his freedom of expression, whereas his best friend wants him to look like a soldier and his mother just wants him to look like her son. They are each trying to help him in their own way, as many of our own friends and family have tried to do for us along our curly hair journeys. So much is expected of the young boy in a place where desolation is front and center, that wanting straight hair becomes more than a request and turns into a desire to be released from his surroundings.

Some may trivialize the significance of straightening one’s hair if they have not lived through it, but this film gives a glimpse into the tortured history of curly haired women and men who have struggled with self-acceptance.  I applaud the choice of the director to illustrate how race, gender, class and even age can be symbolized in the curve of a strand.

Pelo Malo is now showing in select cities, including:

• Santa Fe, Argentina
• Mexico City, Mexico
• San Diego, USA
• Miami, USA
• Houston, USA
• Madrid, Spain
• Rome, Italy
• Torino, Italy
• Vancouver, Canada

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 19, 2014

Remember soaking your nails in gelatin?

Contrary to a long-standing belief, WebMD says gelatin will not increase nail strength simply by eating or soaking your nails in it. Bad news for women wanting to strengthen their nails, but if you are looking for stronger hair then WebMD does say that gelatin can improve the quality of hair.

Gelatin for hair

Now there are several factors that determine the length and condition of your hair like genetics, diet, exercise, and even environmental elements. Aside from those, we can add supplements of various kinds to aid in hair growth and they do not have to all be pills. Gelatin is often used as a strengthener and growth aid in hair treatments utilizing the ingredient collagen. Gelatin is a protein substance derived from collagen, which can be found in tendons, ligaments, and the tissues of mammals. Madehow says that boiling the connective tissues, bones, and skins of cows and pigs is how gelatin is created. Gelatin usually has the ability to form strong, transparent gels.

If you take a look at your shampoo and conditioner labels you will likely find that they contain keratin in the form of gelatin, such as TRESemme Anti-Breakage Breakage Defense Shampooand TRESemme Anti-Breakage Vitamin B12 & Gelatin Conditioner. According to The Natural Haven, synchronized swimmers also use gelatin to keep hair from being displaced by the water and this process is called “Knoxing,” named after Knox Gelatin, which contains hydrolyzed proteins.

The matter of gelatin benefiting hair has been subject to debate, but we have seen and heard from curly community members that they find gelatin to improve the quality of their hair, so it’s worth a try to do one of these gelatin treatments and see how it affects you.

DIY Gelatin Protein Treatment

by Science-y Hair Blog

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup water
• 1 packet of Knox unflavored gelatin powder 
• 5 drops vinegar or a pinch of citric acid. Test for a pH around 5 to help the protein bond to your hair. 
• 1-3 drops of oil

Directions

1. Boil water.
2. Add acid to cool water and test pH of the cooled liquid.
3. Dissolve the gelatin in the boiling water, stirring constantly. Slowly add the water to reduce the potential for lumps. 
4. Add any add-ins, mixing thoroughly.

Note: Some people with fine or shorter hair use half the gelatin. If you find this recipe too strong, try halving the gelatin content.

Gelatin Hair Mask for Shinier, Stronger Hair

by Beauty Expert Julyne Derrick

Ingredients

• Half a packet of gelatin
• 2 Tbsp. of milk or water
• 2 Tbsp. hair conditioner (skip this if you have oily hair”>

Note: If you have super long or very thick hair, you can double this recipe.

Directions

1. Warm up the milk in the microwave or use warm water. 
2. Mix in gelatin. 
3. Allow it to sit for 15 min. and mix in the conditioner. Mixture should be like a thick gel.
4. Comb gel through wet hair from roots to ends (no need to shampoo hair, you’ll be doing that at the end”>. 
5. Add more milk or water if paste is too thick. 
6. Wrap hair in plastic and then a towel. Let hair dry for 30-40 min. 
7. Rinse hair and follow up with a shampoo.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 16, 2014

The Benefits of Sweet Potatoes

Underappreciated and overlooked, this super-food is packed full of anti-inflammatory and blood sugar-reducing nutrients, fat-free, and is quite low in calories.  It is high in vitamins A, B6, C, D, and E while containing iron, zinc, copper, calcium, potassium, niacin and magnesium. Actually, the combination of vitamin C, vitamin E, and beta-carotene make this potato one heck of a “beauty food” due to all of those nutrients that contribute to a healthy, glowing complexion and vibrant tresses.

What is a Sweet Potato?

The sweet potato or lpomoea batatas is a dicotyledonous plant that belongs to the Convolvulaceae family. It is a large starch, lightly sweet tuberous root vegetable. According to Wikipedia, this orange-fleshed vegetable is one of nature’s unsurpassed sources of the antioxidant beta-carotene which our bodies turn into the much needed vitamin A. YouBeauty says beta-carotene is a group of natural chemicals known as carotenoids and numerous observational studies have found that people who consume more fruits and veggies rich in carotenoids have reduced risks of many chronic disease like cancer and cardiovascular disease.

How to Use It

For Dry Hair

Struggling with moisture? Sweet potato is your go-to! With all of those nutrients sweet potato provides massive nourishment to thirsty strands that is unmatched. The vitamin A will boost your scalp’s natural oils, so it seals the moisture and promotes hair growth while the Omega-3 fatty acids add luster by nourishing your hair follicles.

For Hair Loss

The beta-carotene that is converted into vitamin A (fat-soluble vitamin”> in our bodies is necessary for all cell growth, including hair growth. Vitamin A deficiency can lead to dull, dry, lifeless hair. Remember to not overdo it with the vitamin A, as too much can actually lead to hair loss.

Here are a few recipes that will keep those tresses moisturized, elastic, and strong well into the New Year!

Sweet Potato and Honey Hair Conditioner

by Twisted Poodle

Ingredients and tools

• 1 large sweet potato
• 1 cup of full fat yogurt
• 1 Tbsp. of honey
• 3 Tbsp. of coconut cream
• 2 drops of clove essential oil (more or less if desired”>
• 4 drops of vanilla essential oil (more or less if desired”>
• Double boiler

Directions

• Peel and cut the sweet potato.
• Boil  the sweet potato and add coconut cream to melt in a double boiler (or can melt in the microwave at 30 sec bursts”>.
• Drain sweet potatoes and whip in a food processor or hand-held beater.
• Pour in melted coconut cream, yogurt, honey, and blend until smooth.
• Add essential oils.
• Apply to your hair while the conditioner is still warm and then cover with a plastic cap and towel.
• Allow it to sit for 15 min. and rinse completely

Looking for a simpler recipe?  Here’s one that will have you in and out of the shower in no time!

Sweet Potato Hair Conditioner

by Shape

Ingredients

• ½ plain large sweet potato cooked and mashed
• 3 Tbsp. honey
• ¼ cup plain yogurt (any percent fat works”>

Directions

Combine everything and apply to damp hair. Put on a plastic shower cap and wait 20 min. before rinsing off with tepid water.

Have you used sweet potato on your hair?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 16, 2014

BeUnique Moisture Custard

What is Illipe Butter?

It becomes a pale yellow, solid fat after extraction with a chemical composition that parallels cocoa butter with a lightly higher melting point. Illipe butter contains oleic, palmitic, steric, and linoleic acids. It is a hard butter that melts when in contact with skin.

How to Use It

According to My Green Australia, illipe butter is used for various skin care preparations such as nourishing night creams, sun products, hair masks, make-up foundations, soaps, and lip balms. It is also recommended to heal sores, mouth ulcers, and reinforce the skin lipidic barrier while helping maintain skin moisturization.

The Benefits

This is a great product to keep your dry hair and skin at bay during the colder months. Excellent in soaps for doing just that since it is a long-lasting moisturizer. Very popular in lip treatments, you can find small amounts of it added to numerous products and it can be used as a pure 100% lip balm. It acts as a shield from the harsh outside elements and drying inside temperatures by keeping your lips moist.

With such a magnificent chemical composition it only makes sense it would also be an advantage to healthy hair care. For years this butter has been used for skin and hair because of its incredible moisturizing properties. Illipe butter will restore elasticity to dry, over-processed (by chemicals or color”> tresses and is quite popular as a hair mask ingredient. According to eHow, there are quite a few products on the market already using this beneficial butter but if adding to hair treatments the recommended percentage added should be in the 2 to 5% range.

Products

Here are some popular products using illipe butter to give your hair elasticity and moisture.

• Curly Kinks Twist Whip
• Jane Carter Solution Nourish & Shine 
• Pura Body Naturals Cupuacu Hair Butter 
• MarieDean Yogurt Smoothy Cream
• Entwine ‘Indulgently Luxe’ Exotique Butter Creme Hydrator
• BeUnique Moisture Custard

 Do you like illipe butter?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 16, 2014

What happened to the days of simplicity? Remember when you needed only a shampoo, a conditioner, and a way to dry your hair? Do not get me wrong, my relaxer days may have been simpler but they were not better, and even though my bathroom looks like a mini beauty supply store, I feel more in control of my hair than ever before. A whole new norm awakens and many who take this newfangled road find themselves bombarded with new products, techniques, trials, and tribulations. It can be a tad overwhelming for many, so they search the web to find out what they need to keep their hair healthy and happy.

As if that was not enough, I fear we are seeing a warping of our sacred technique turning into dollars for some companies. Hey, I am not trying to stop anyone’s hustle and the increase in female entrepreneurs is always going to get my vote, but I wonder if something is amiss. I remember when the words co-wash, seal, and pre-poo were just terms we used to take care of our hair. They were not products but rather methods we used to care for our tresses. If shampoo was too harsh you either did a pre-poo with an oil or washed your hair with a botanical conditioner. Now there are actual products with these terms in the name or directions.

I had viable solutions to these problems and there were no real needs for a manufactures to create a product specifically for these everyday routines I do with my own products. I never considered needing a pre-poo product in a pretty 8 oz. jar that is triple the price of a bottle of olive oil that will lasts me longer. There is a low likelihood that I would pick up an expensive bottle with the word sealer on it to seal my ends when jojoba oil works just find.

The bottom line is when did our natural and curl-friendly techniques turn into products and have I bought into the hype? Are all these items truly necessary? Yes, some actually are as I cannot imagine washing my tresses without my tried and true As I Am Cleansing CoWash, but for many a botanical conditioner works just fine. Somewhere down the line of the newly naturals becoming a massive market, we seem to have fallen for the advertising and felt we needed a product with specific wording. Some are true advances but others are just advertising at its best.

Again, not trampling on the hustle but hair care companies want our business, and if they hear a term too often then it slowly becomes incorporated into the label to catch your attention. If a technique is truly just a technique then do you really need a product telling you that it can be used for that technique? Do you really need a product saying it is a pre-poo for you to use it as, you know…pre-poo? All I am saying is some of these techniques are just that, while others are actual products that work amazingly well and make your life simpler. If that is the case then by all means use it, but the next time you stroll through a hair care aisle ask yourself…

Technique or product? Do I need this or am I enticed by the wording?  

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 13, 2014

Now, no one is pushing you to start making homemade concoctions and selling them at your doorstep, but even if you are mixing simple items, you will need some form of preservative for your mixtures to avoid spoilage. According to Livestrong, “Preservatives are substances, natural or synthetic, that help keep foods fresh looking and tasting longer and prevent them from rotting or deteriorating too quickly.” Since many of our mixes tend to contain water, peptides, and carbohydrates, they can create a breeding ground for microbes.

Commercial products tend to be formulated with preservatives so they remain fresh for long periods between manufacturing to consumer use. These preservatives are necessary to extend the longevity of the products but some have been affiliated with skin rashes, allergies, and even some cancers. This is one of the many reasons many often prefer steering clear of synthetic preservatives but like all things, it is not that simple. Synthetic preservatives allow products to last longer when compared to natural preservatives.

There is a slight reprieve for mixtresses who refuse to use preservatives, synthetic and natural.  Avoiding water in your mixture extends the life of your product greatly because anything with water is less likely to have a good shelf life. DIY products like balms, waxes, and oils fall under this category as they will have little to no water. Of course most formulations we love and need for our tresses will have water as one of the first five ingredients! For that reason preservatives are a must, and if synthetic preservatives are not something you want to use then you may need to consider natural preservatives.

Natural preservatives sound like a logical choice for most but they will not keep your products as long as synthetic preservatives and there is still some controversy concerning their effectiveness. The best way to utilize them successfully would be adding natural preservatives to small quantities of your mixtures to ensure they get used in a short amount of time and stave off spoilage and microbes. Here are some great natural preservatives that are safe for your tresses and will aid in fighting off bacteria and spoilage.

Grapefruit Seed Oil

Grapefruit seed extract is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, disinfectant, and preservative. It is a powerhouse and a study from The Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine found it was effective in killing over “800 bacterial and viral strains, 100 strains of fungus, and a large number of single and multi-celled parasites.” This is used by many mixtresses when creating products with water.

Lemon Juice

Lemons produce an acid that promotes preservation. It contains plenty of vitamin C (also known as ascorbic acid and a powerful antioxidant that prevents spoilage and rotting”>. Lemon juice is similar to salt by drawing out the water content and balancing the pH factor and natural acids in foods.

Germaben II

This ready-to-use and convenient broad spectrum anti-microbial preservative is great for shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and creams. It is a clear, viscous liquid with a mild odor. From Nature with Love says it is highly effective against gram positive and gram negative bacteria, yeasts, and molds.

Liquid Germall Plus

Liquid germall plus is another broad spectrum preservative that is highly efficacious and ready to use for personal care formulations. It is a water-soluble preservative for oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, and water soluble formulations. According to Hair Recipes, it is highly effective against gram positive bacteria, gram negative bacteria, molds, and yeasts. It is also compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. A great choice for shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, body sprays, and body washes.

Rosemary Extract

This extract acts like a natural antioxidant and a powerful preservative. With its anti-microbial composition that contains carnosic and rosmaranic acid, it acts like a shield to decay. Livestrong says this potent natural preservative will extend the shelf life of your creams and lotions.

Vitamin E

There are conflicting opinions on vitamin E being an effective preservative, but it truly deserves the right to sit at the preservative table with the big boys. Companies that use it for mixed tocopherols as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants are investigating Vitamin E. A chemist from Crunchy Betty says that when added to oils, vitamin E will prolong the shelf life of oil otherwise exposed to oxygen causing oxidation. According to Simply-Eden, vitamin E is an anti-oxidant but feel because it only helps to prolongs the shelf life and not actually preserve the mixture it should not be added with water-based products.

Which preservative do you use? 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 8, 2014

Hemp seed oil, which is pressed from the seeds of the Cannabis sativa plant, contains 80% essential fatty acids, which is the highest in any plant on the planet. According to Natural News, this plant actually could provide all of our essential fatty acid necessities, which help to prevent heart disease, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, cancer, and more. Hemp oil has a plethora of medicinal, nutritional, and cosmetic uses turning this magic oil into a multipurpose ingredient. Mountain Rose Herbs says that besides being easy to digest in its raw state, it contains less than 10% saturated fats.

Hemp seed oil can do wonders for your hair, skin, and even nails since they are all formed from dermal cells and hemp oil is nearly identical to our own lipids. This allows it to penetrate our cells easily and effectively lubricate them. Hemp oil will nourish dry skin, blotches, and lesions as well as detoxify the skin and even out blotchy skin tone. No worries of clogging pores either. According to Natural News, new research is showing the benefits of this oil on eczema with a reduction in dryness, itching, and overall improvement in the symptoms of patents while using hemp seed oil.

Benefits of Hemp Seed Oil

Strengthen hair structure

Conditioning agent

Improves elasticity and softens 

Hair Products with Hemp Seed Oil

• Bobeam Rootz Herbal Hair Grower Shampoo Bar 
• Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade 
• Nubian Heritage, Grow & Strengthen Treatment Masque, Indian Hemp & Tamanu 

DIY Hemp Seed Oil Dry Hair Serum

• 1 oz coconut oil or extra virgin olive oil
• 1 1/2 oz jojoba oil
• 1 1/2 oz organic hemp seed oil 
• 1/4 tsp silk peptide powder (promotes suppleness, shine, and elasticity”>
• 5-10 drops of essential oils (fragrance”>

Mix oils in a 4 oz bottle. It is recommended that you store the oil in cool, dark place, as hemp seed oil can go rancid very quickly. You can use this mixture on your dry hair as a pre-poo, moisture sealer, and hair revitalizer. Hemp seed oil has a very nutty smell to it, so you can add a couple drops of essential oils to your mix to counter the nutty smell.

Do you use hemp seed oil?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 4, 2014

The trends in packaging are changing, and as consumers we bring about that change with our spending habits, concerns, and needs. The real question is do curlies, coilies, and curlies have different or special packaging needs than straight-haired consumers? I think so. Oh, not sure about that? Well, Cosmetics Design provides market research from the experts that outline the top four personal care packaging trends.

• Sustainability – Consumers are globally aware and some are proactive about how their waste is affecting the planet. Going green is trendy so be wary of greenwashing, as manufacturers show off their green consciousness to promote a product. 
• Convenience – Consumers have busier lifestyles than around 20 or even ten years ago, so our beauty products have to be easier to open, use, and transport. We are all conditioned for instant gratification and our products are reflective of these expectations. 

• Male Grooming – There is an increasing number of male hair care and skin care products. Whether men are buying for themselves or women are purchasing them on their behalf (like I do for my husband”>, the market for this is growing. 
• Value added products – Consumers want better features to enhance their experience, like applicator tips, roll-on bottles, and drop dispensers just to name a few. We want more systems where you suggest which products to pair and guide us on how to use them. 

Packaging is big business and for good reason. The packaging lures you in with its aesthetics, ease of use, and apparently a few other reasons. It is more than just a holder for your favorite product and even though I am more worried about what is in the package, I do have a few preferences on the exterior. For obvious reasons, having coily hair makes my hair journey a little harder in some ways and having the right products and packaging can help.

Pumps

Give me a pump for my hair products any day of the week! Pump dispensers allow me to do the following:

• Regulate how much to use because I am super heavy handed and if I have to scoop it out I will always take more than necessary
• Not worry about spillage
• Not contaminate the products with runoff water from my hair or shower
• Distribute an equal amount to all sections
• Aim the product in my palm without it spillage through fingers

The downside to a pump is when the bottle is almost empty it is difficult to get the remnants out! I do not like to waste so I do that to get every bit of the goodness! Jars are a no-no in the shower because you get water in them, you scoop out too much (or at least I do”>, and they fall over and spill. I do not have time for that!

Larger sizes

I need the ultra, super ridiculous sized products and hate when I cannot get them. I go through way too much conditioner for those cute 8 oz and 10 oz containers. I am working on some serious business when I get in the shower so I need products that last me longer than a few days so I will buy in the bigger size if I can. I wish more product lines would start offering them because they would find more of the curlies buying them with a vengeance. It is also great for less waste because they last longer and can be reused for just about anything. The huge bottle needs a pump too unless I am pouring it into a smaller bottle.

Bio-degradable

I love knowing that product lines want to save the planet for the generations to come. More companies are doing this and hopefully even some of the more luxury brands will follow suit.

Minimalism

Many of us are ditching packaging all together with DIY products in our own jars and bottles we reuse. I really like the shampoo bars that have no packaging and clays that require the minimal packaging. I am struggling to become a minimalist so reducing my packaging is an ongoing challenge for me but I welcome it daily. My husband is elated anytime I can find new ways to reduce the clutter in my bathroom.

Those are my favorite packaging for hair products but I would love to know which ones you prefer below.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 3, 2014

Caffeine in its purest form is a white crystalline powder that is extremely bitter and stimulates the central nervous system. How Stuff Works says caffeine is present in over 60 plants and it can be found in coffee beans, tea leaves, and kola nuts, and 90% of adults use caffeine in one form or another. According to News-Medical, the FDA classifies caffeine as both a drug and a food additive and you can find scores of information on just how bad it is. Despite all of the bad press caffeine gets, it has some amazing qualities too.

So, this makes you want to up your caffeine intake by just downing a few glasses of iced tea or a couple of cups of coffee, right? Unfortunately, to obtain an adequate dose for those types of results requires around 50 to 60 cups a day and that is not an option, but applying it topically through hair products is. There are two reasons topical applications may be the more beneficial route.

Topical application would allow you to obtain a higher dosage than waiting for it to enter your bloodstream through eating and drinking. Topical applications allow for the higher dosage without the side effects that can occur from high-dose caffeine ingestion. Here are three popular shampoos with caffeine because simply cleansing your hair with them is not enough. The shampoo must stay on your scalp for at least a couple of minutes because it takes a while for the caffeine to penetrate to the hair roots and produce an effect.

• Thicker Fuller Hair Revitalizing Shampoo 
• PROGANIX Volume Root Boost Finish + Body Builder 
• Garnier Fructis Fall Fight Fortifying Shampoo For Falling, Breaking Hair 

If this is not the route you choose to take then you can add some liquid caffeine to your own shampoo as an alternative. Caffeine Informer says another way to gain the benefits is very similar to what I do with my hair tea. Pour cold brewed coffee over your freshly washed hair and allow it to sit on hair for at least five minutes and then continue with your conditioning. When it comes to hair growth, it appears that the benefits of topical applications far any benefit from ingesting caffeine. Drink your morning cup and know it is helping you in other ways than hair growth, and if you want a more concentrated effect then the topical route is the one to take.

Do you use products with caffeine in them?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 2, 2014

Naturally curly hair requires dedication and knowledge so it is not uncommon for women with curls, coils, and waves to go the extra mile for their hair. The earth is scavenged for knowledge on everything from our own hair structure to the best conditioner for our hair’s porosity. Gone are the days of guessing or just believing claims on the product packaging. Doing your research is a significant component of healthy hair care and knowing how the products are benefiting your hair is just as important as what you choose to add to your hair.

Natural oils are essential to healthy coily, curly, and wavy hair. Cleansing dehydrates curls, so when you are washing your strands you are allowing your hair shaft to open up and remove buildup along with nutrients and natural oils. This is why many curlies, wavies, and coilies choose to co-wash or even take the water-only hair washing route as a means to avoid excessive dryness.

Carrier oils harbor numerous benefits from head to toe, and although we hear this on most hair care sites, what exactly is in that oil that brings so many advantages to your tresses? Yes, it is easier to just stick with the basics, but once you break down what makes up these natural oils it can be confusing. A perfect example would be any term with the word acid, as all acids are not created equal.

Oleic acid 

Linoleic acid

For an expert source I tapped on the shoulder of our very own Sister Scientist and she shared some insight about these two amazing acids, “Oleic and linoleic acid are saturated fatty acids that a make up the backbone of many of the natural oils and sebum. As standalone ingredients, they still have properties to condition the hair and skin and help to unblock pores on the scalp. As long they are added at an efficacious amount and are stable enough to not oxidize inside of the formulation, they can serve a purpose for the hair and scalp.”

Oleic and linoleic acid are saturated fatty acids that a make up the backbone of many of the natural oils and sebum.

Oleic acid (also called Omega-9″> is an acid our bodies can create whenever it has a caloric surplus, but linoleic acid (also called Omega-6″> is an essential fatty acid that our bodies need but cannot create. Oleic acid and linoleic acid are different fatty acids but both are assets to our strands. Linoleic acid stimulates hair growth, maintains a healthy scalp conditions, and will control water loss in your hair. Oleic acid will also control water loss in your strands while making your hair softer and more pliable. Blogger Minimalist Beauty categorizes more oils that are high in oleic acid and high in linoleic acid:

• Higher in oleic acid: shea nut oil, sweet almond oil, and palm fruit oil.
• Higher in linoleic acid: rose hip seed oil, soybean oil, and hemp seed oil.

Do you use any of these oils for your hair and scalp?