Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 19, 2015

PHOTO COURTESY OF CURLY PENNY

Why I DIY

The Maker Movement

Until there was a larger and easily accessible selection of products for curly and coily hair, many of us were in kitchens making our own concoctions. Many went on to create their own lines right out of those small kitchens and more women-owned lines began to take off. Believe it or not but we are a part of the Maker Movement. Techopedia defines the maker movement as “a trend in which individuals or groups of individuals create and market products that are recreated and assembled using unused, discarded or broken electronic, plastic, silicon or virtually any raw material and/or product from a computer-related device.”

Brit Moran, founder and CEO of Brit + Co sees the bigger picture of the Maker Movement and how it encompasses more than just the technology fields. “Brit + Co is an online media and e-commerce platform that provides tools to teach, inspire, and enable creativity among women and girls.” The hair products that are being created in kitchens and garages are just as much a part of this movement as one tinkering with an old broken electronic.

DIY is Changing

DIY no longer just means a “how-to” like how to change a tire but it has a much broader foundation that uses an element of skill to create something of your own. This renewed industrial revolution is making way for small businesses to thrive and it also encourages the rekindling of the spirit in the individual. Technology is great but creativity and the artisan is greater. The need to do for oneself benefits the wallet and, depending on what is being made, most likely benefits the maker. Creating one’s own hair products tends to be cheaper and gives the maker more control over the quality, but whether your goal is to become a business or merely just create your own product is not even the point. The point is to pursue the DIY movement for your own personal needs, especially if commercial products are not meeting those needs.

So, in my opinion DIY for natural hair care is not dead. It is part of a thriving trend and here to stay. Women are still creating their hair care lines and most certainly creating their refreshers, deep treatments, and hair masks. There is room for creativity and the marketplace to coexist and flourish. Here are three examples that the DIY not going anywhere and only stepping up its game with stronger foundations, marketability, and necessity.

• Avocado and Banana Hair Mask
• This Season’s Ultimate Spray Bottle
• Naptural85’s DIY Hair & Body Oil

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 16, 2015

Disclaimer: If you do not watch The Walking Dead, this might fly over your head.

Cleansing

Ok, they look dirty most of the time and they must maintain some level of cleanliness between killing walkers and finding a safe place to stay. Now I would be laying low in a Target right about now but in reality most stores have been cleansed of all the goodies that are needed for everyday uses like soaps and shampoos. That’s right! It is now time to officially rough it out. It may not be pretty or glamorous but these ways will get the job done.

Water washing

Water washing or “rinse-only” washing is actually pretty popular now so it would be an easy transition for many when the zombies turn our world upside down. Using water and fingertips or a boar brush may be the easiest way to cleanse the hair during the new turn in the world. The whole premise to water washing is eliminating cleansers and your hair will stop overproducing sebum and your scalp’s pH will balance out all on its own. This will be the most popular method, as there would be no time for extra primping! The downside is that water alone cannot remove everything, so if you have walker guts in your hair you will need something a tad stronger. The upside is no need for scouring for supplies and leaving your well-guarded prison, church, or farm.

Washing hair with soap

There might be soap available, so you may have to kick into DIY mode. One of the best ways to cleanse your whole body would be creating your own castile soap. Castile soap is a vegetable soap derived from olive oil, water, and lye that is gentle, non-toxic, and great for cleaning everything. These three ingredients are something that would still be around even when the walkers are causing a ruckus so it might be time to give it a try. The downside of this soap is the potency, as it should be diluted with water before applying directly on the skin and hair. The upside is it is great for everything.

Baking soda

Yes, good old-fashioned baking soda, which will definitely be revered during the end of the world as you now know it. It is actually a great way to clean those strands and all it needs is a little hot water. It would be at any and every store so it would need to be on the list. It is an effective cleanser for your tresses and cleans well so unless you are fighting walkers daily, you should be able to prolong your wash days for weeks! The downside is it has a pH of about nine so you will have to normalize your hair after using it and follow up with a diluted apple cider vinegar (ACV”>. The upside is it works really well so you don’t need a lot and you don’t need it often.

Conditioning

Now this may be a tad easier because all the products are either rancid or no longer available, but most likely you will have a garden if you are staying in one place longer than one season. If you are planting your roots then plant a garden with produce that can be used to create homemade conditioners. I will be hoarding all the carrier and essential oils so best believe I will have gallons of olive oil, avocado oil, etc. Just about any oil and fruits we love will garner amazing conditioners, so as we hack up those walkers our hair will be bouncy, soft, and oh so shiny!

Walker friendly conditioner Olive Oil & Honey

All you need is ¼ cup of honey and ¼ cup of olive oil (can be replaced with another oil as well”>. Mix and apply to hair and allow it to sit before rinsing.

I see dead people Diluted ACV

Add 1 teaspoon to one cup of water and pour into a squirt bottle if you were able to find one. Just shake the bottle before each use and gently massage into your hair and scalp for a minute or two. Do not worry, your hair will not smell like vinegar but honesty you are running from walkers so, who cares?

Zombie apocalypse fruit + oil conditioner

This recipe is an “everything but the kitchen sink” conditioner. Whatever fruits, vegetables, and herbs you find go into this mix. Don’t forget the carrier oil! Who is going to fault you for not following the book? Honestly, at least you are trying! Just do something if you do not want to go bald (unless you want that look”>. Just be creative and stock up on your goodies!

Styling

Ok, this may be easier or harder depending on the individual. I will be rocking twists, braids, or a bun but those are not options for everybody. No gels, waxes, or mousses to help you along so you may have to deal with only cleansing and conditioning. Braid it up, loc it up, or just fro it up. Even if you are not worried about styling you can find tee shirts and rock a turban it up. Hey, it will look cute on most days and be a great way to keep walker guts or bugs out of your hair.

Nighttime routine

Keep it simple! Tie it up with an old tee shirt turned turban or scarf and keep it moving. I applaud you if you find anything satin. Now, we are ready for the walkers so if you make it out alive…you know how to keep those tresses looking gorgeous!

How would you care for your hair?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 16, 2015

There seems to be some confusion about what and where this oil comes from, as many falsely assume that it is related to tea tree oil. Camellia oil is also known as tea seed oil, camellia seed oil, and even tea oil and is extracted from the seeds of the tea plant. It is not to be confused with camellia japonica oil, which is also known as Japanese tea oil and does not produce tea leaves. The camellia japonica oil is better known as tsubaki and it is also different in terms of its chemical composition and nutritional value.

What is Camellia Oil?

It has linoleic acid, Omega 6 that has properties to condition hair while unblocking pores to the scalp. It also stimulates hair growth and controls water loss in hair. It contains has a ton of Omega-9 or oleic acid, which will also control water loss and make your strands softer and more pliable. It has stearic acid, which is great for protecting and conditioning the strands while the palmitic acid adds moisture to the hair without clogging the scalp’s pores.

Read more: Oleic and Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much

Benefits of Camellia Oil

• Anti-Inflammatory – reduces inflammation in the scalp. 
• Astringent – can be a natural way to cleanse the scalp, especially when prolonging wash day. Many use an astringent when they exercise and want to keep their scalp clean without the drama of a long wash day. Remember, this is only a temporary fix. 
• Antioxidant – just like green tea, camellia oil is a superb antioxidant that can help in preventing hair loss.
• Emulsifier – great for bringing two “unblendable” substances (like oil and water”> to become stable in their blended state. Used in many hair products. 
• Conditioner (hair”> – used as a traditional hair treatment in the ancient times in China, this can do wonders as a hot oil conditioning and feels very similar to olive oil.  

Camellia Oil Hot Oil Treatment

Use as a hot oil treatment by either heating the oil in a cup of hot water and apply to your hair. Cover with a plastic cap for 15-30 min. before shampooing. You can also just apply to your hair, cover with plastic cap, and sit under a hooded dryer for 10-15 min. Then, shampoo and condition as usual.

Camellia Oil Mist

Its ability to unblock pores and add moisture make this oil a perfect refresher in between workouts.

Add a few drops of your favorite essential oil to 4 oz. of camellia oil in a spray bottle of distilled water. After cleansing, lightly mist the hair. Do not forget to massage into your scalp with fingertips and proceed with your normal routine. You can add your leave-in conditioner.

Do you like camellia oil?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 14, 2015

Acids may not immediately sound like an ingredient that you want to be dousing your hair in, but acids are actually found in many of the moisturizing oils that curlies, coilies, and wavies love to use. Let’s find out about a few acids that help give our hair the moisture it needs, and which oils you can find them in.

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic acid is one of the most common fatty acids that can be found in both animals and plants.  It is primarily found in the oil of palm trees and often used in detergents, soaps, and cleaning products as a surfactant. Despite this, it is often used in beauty products and cosmetics because of the variety of properties it holds. The softening properties of palmitic acid are great for spreadability to soften the hair’s surface without a greasy or tacky feeling.

Stearic Acid

This odorless, colorless, wax-like fatty acid is commonly found in vegetables and animal fats. This waxy solid got its name from the Greek word steatos, which means tallow. Stearic acid is produced from carbohydrates and is ideal as an emulsifying agent and great for hair products to coat, condition, and protect the hair shaft without dulling or weighing it down.

Stearic and palmitic acids were both used by the ancient Egyptians as gels to hold the hair of the Egyptians in elaborate styles. Archaeologists have found this to be true during studies on mummies. Most plants and seeds that are rich in stearic acid were used for medicinal purposes during ancient Egypt and Rome.

Ferulic Acid

This plant-based antioxidant is found in wheat, rice, peanuts, oranges, and even apples. Abundantly found in coffee as well, the name came from the Greek for “the one that does not wither.” Ferulic acid provides antioxidant and sun protective benefits to skin. A 2004 Italian study found that ferulic acid was more powerful of an antioxidant than vitamins C, E, and beta-carotene.

Arachidic Acid

Also known as eicosanoic acid, arachidic acid is a saturated fatty acid containing 20 carbon atoms in a straight chain and found in peanut oil, butter, and other fats. Gössmann first discovered arachidic acid in 1854 in peanuts oil; peanuts are the seed of Arachis hypogea from which its named. It has been used in lubricants, greases, plastics, and waxes.

Scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed. created a simple chart that displays the benefits and differences between these four fatty acids. Usually, simplicity allows us to master what we need for our tresses.

Read more: Oleic and Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much

Palmitic Acid

• Found in the palm oil, coconut oil, and avocado oil
• Can be used as a cleansing agent (detergent”>; but can be drying 
•  Used as an emollient (softening agent”> in moisturizers
• Most common saturated fatty acid

Stearic Acid

• Found in coconut oil, sweet almond oil, baobab oil, and grapeseed oil but can come from animals as well
• Great cleansing agent
• Has good thickening properties
• Feels soft, waxy on skin
• Can be irritating in high doses

Ferulic Acid

• Found in rice bran oil and other plants
• Promotes collagen production (helps with elasticity of skin”>
• Has antioxidant properties (fights free radicals”>
• Has “anti-aging” properties

Arachidic Acid

• Found in peanut oil and fish oil
• Used as an emollient, thickener, and emulsifier
• Saturated fatty acid

Knowing the importance of fatty acids and how they can do more than one primary function is essential to finding the perfect ingredients. They can aid in giving your hair the emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, or antioxidants it needs for any purpose your hair may desire.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 9, 2015

Annatto or Bixa orellana is a shrub native to South and Central America along with the Caribbean. Annatto has other names like lipstick plant and it is derived from the seeds of the achiote tree. Annatto is widely cultivated for its fruit seeds where a natural colorant is derived. The achiote tree grows branches and prickly, reddish-orange heart-shaped pods that contain around 50 seeds. The seeds are said to have a slightly peppery smell with a hint of nutmeg along with a peppery, nutty, and sweet taste.

The seeds of the annatto are covered in a thin layer of the reddish-orange pulp. Annatto is used as a colorant and dye for food, textiles, and body paint. Annatto has carotenoids or organic pigments naturally occurring in plants and photosynthetic organisms. It is used in Latin American and Caribbean cuisine as a coloring and flavoring agent while in Central and South America it is used as a body paint and lipstick. Although not an edible fruit, the pulp covering the seeds are using as a food coloring. Called Achiote dye, it is created by grinding the seeds or simmering them in water or oil.

Hair Benefits

Despite being used for food coloring annatto actually has been used for centuries to condition hair and skin. It is because of the vitamins A, D, and beta-carotene. It has been used for the skin as an emollient and with its anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and astringent abilities. It can be a seed paste or seed oil and often added to shampoo and conditioners because it can give the hair a natural sunny glow. It can even be found in hair dye because of this feature as well. Interested in trying a quick hair color rinse for a funky and spunky color combination of orange-red? Here’s the simplest way to do it with Annatto powder.

Recipe

1. Mix three tablespoons annatto seed and 1 cup boiling water. 
2. Allow the mixture to cool slightly before straining. 
3. Applying to your head and massage into clean, dry strands until fully saturated and leave on for an hour. 
4. Rinse and style as usual but do not shampoo, as this is just a temporary rinse. If you are more interested in trying a product that already has annatto in it? 

• Carol’s Daughter Mimosa Hair Honey 
• Carol’s Daughter Hair Balm 
• Laranja Chamomile Shampoo Bar 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 9, 2015

Beets are excellent sources of fiber, folate, manganese, and potassium with a good source of vitamins B6, C, iron, and magnesium. They also contain riboflavin, thiamine, pantothenic acid, choline, betaine, phosphorus, copper, selenium, and zinc. With all these amazing nutrients it’s no wonder the beet is being touted as a “super food,” but people have been taking of advantage of its health benefits dating back 4,000 years to the time of the Babylonians.

Beets became popular around the 19th century when they were discovered they could be used to make sugar. The very first beet sugar plant was built in Poland.  Their history can go even further back, as beetroot was offered to Apollo in his temple in Delphi and was hailed to be worth its weight in silver!  During the early times of beets, their medicinal properties far outweighed their eating qualities. It was also quite popular during the 16th century for using beet juice as a natural red dye and the Victorian’s used it to dye their hair.

Beets and your hair

Beetroot juice is an awesome asset for your hair. With the carbs, protein, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and vitamins B and C, they all work at bringing better blood circulation to our scalp and hair while promoting stronger and healthier strands. Beetroot juice also eliminates a dry and itchy scalp with its anti-pruritic properties. Its enzymatic properties destroy excessive dead cells and dry conditions of the scalp while also moisturizing the scalp at the same time.

Temporary hair dye

If you’ve ever cooked with beets, you know their juice make for a powerful dye. With the natural food pigments, beet juice is great for a temporary color change of a reddish or purple hue. You can darken your hair’s color by washing your hair with a beet juice shampoo mixture like the one below.

Beet juice shampoo mixture

What you’ll need

• Plastic or rubber gloves (beet juice will stain your skin”>
• One large beet
• Blender or food processor
• Knife 
• Strainer 
• Large bowl 
• Favorite sulfate-free shampoo 
• Small funnel

Directions

1. Chop up the beet into large pieces and place into the blender or food processor. 
2. Blend to extract the juice and then strain juice into a bowl before transferring into a measuring cup. 
3. Pour some of the shampoo out of the bottle and place in another measuring cup. Use a small funnel to pour beet juice into the shampoo bottle. 
4. Shake well to mix the shampoo and beet juice. 
5. Test on a small section of hair while in the shower. You may have to add more shampoo or beet juice according to how light or how dark of a hue you want. 
6. Leave the mixture in for 15 min. (or longer for a deeper color”> and rinse. 
7. Style as usual. 

Have you ever used beet juice in your hair routine?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 3, 2015

PHOTO COURTESY OF

We hear about the benefits of protein for hair as it temporarily repairs the damage inflicted to the hair’s cuticle, but is it the only protector for our strands? It would seem so since poor ceramides rarely get much love. There are more assets to strengthen or reinforce our hair’s backbone than just proteins, and while some feel proteins are everything, there are others that see ceramides as just as vital, if not more so.

Read more: Does Natural Hair Need Proteins?

Ceramides for hair repair

Ceramides are one of the three types of lipids found in the hair’s cuticle (18 MEA and cholesterol are the other two”> and their purpose is to keep the cuticle layer in place by acting like glue. It keeps the cuticle lying flat and remaining intact, and according to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, “Ceramides have a waxy texture that coats the hair and improves the tensile strength of the hair while also holding in the much-appreciated moisture.” They have high levels of linoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid that stimulates hair growth and controls moisture loss in hair. Several natural oils that have linoleic acid also have ceramides and one of the highest would be safflower oil and grape seed oil, because they both have over 70% linoleic acid and in turn have high levels of ceramides.

Despite adding strength to the hair, ceramides and proteins are not the same and actually have very different functions. Proteins can penetrate the hair’s cuticle and fill up the holes or gaps in the hair shaft while ceramides coat the hair to protect it and hold moisture in our strands. Another difference between ceramides and proteins is which types of hair benefit the most from either of them. Proteins aid all hair types equally but ceramides are most useful in chemically damaged hair and with virgin or natural hair they are far less effective.

Can ceramides in oils replace the need for proteins?

Ceramides are naturally occurring in the hair, but as we inflict daily styling, heat tools, chemicals, and even environmental elements, they can become depleted just as the hair’s cuticle can become chipped or raised. Often we look to nature in the form of foods or supplements to replenish what we have destroyed.

Ceramides help keep protein in the hair’s cuticle and replenish the internal cuticle’s oil

Ceramides help keep protein in the hair’s cuticle and replenish the internal cuticle’s oil but proteins patch up the cuticle’s surface. It would appear neither is better than the other and both are equal cogs in a vital partnership perfect for optimal hair health. I say why do you have to choose? It would seem they both serve a powerful purpose in hair strength so why decide? There is no need to replace one for another unless there is a problem. Well, if your hair is protein sensitive then solely relying on ceramides for hair’s strength may be an asset. Also, remember that if you are sensitive to one protein that does not mean you will atomically be sensitive to another type. Lastly, please note that ceramides only reinforce the hair strand and are not as effective as strengthening the hair’s inner layer like protein will.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 2, 2015

So what are you supposed to do besides test your water, get a filter, and hope you live in a city with the best tap water? Well, if you do have lots of minerals or contaminants in your water and you just cannot afford a shower filter, you may want to try either a clarifying shampoo or a chelating shampoo. A clarifying shampoo will remove all the buildup from environmental pollutants and product from your tresses. A chelating shampoo is specifically designed to remove heavy buildup from hard water minerals, pool water chemicals, and the regular hair product residue. Chelating shampoos have ingredients that attach to the impurities, minerals, and toxins that are then rinsed away.

Many chelating shampoos contain ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid or EDTA. EDTA attaches itself to any trace metal, so it is highly effective in these types of shampoos for removing them from your hair. Chelating shampoos are extremely drying and even more so than clarifying shampoos, but if it is necessary then use it and then moisturize the dickens out of your hair! Deep condition, do a hot oil treatment…whatever to ensure you are replenishing your hair’s natural oils since not only the toxins will be removed by this super powerful shampoo. Here are some popular ones that curlies may be interested in.

Shampoos for hard water

• Mizani Phormula-7 Neutralizing & Chelating Shampoo 
• Kenra Clarifying Shampoo Chelating Formula 
• Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo for All Hair Types 
• Joico – K-PAK Chelating Shampoo

These may be great for the co-washers who dip in and out of using a shampoo regularly and may find more buildup over time. These should not be used regularly, as they are too drying. They are great for pool time but always remember they are good at what they do. They remove everything and may even dull your hair color so use color-safe conditioners to help retain as much of it as possible.

Do you have hard water in your area? How has it affected your hair routine?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 2, 2015

Alfalfa (Medicago sativa“> is a perennial, leguminous plant of the pea family. It is known for its amazing tolerance in the heat, cold, and droughts. It has remarkable productivity and quality of its herbage and actually improves soil. Most people are only aware of the alfalfa sprouts but this tall, bush, leafy plant is valuable in its entirety. The name comes from Arabic and is translated as “Father of Plants”. This is a rapidly growing plant. Its roots can attain great depths, which is an adaptation for drought tolerance. Its stems and leaves can rapidly regenerate new ones following a cutting and the sprouts are tasty additions to dishes while the blossoms are used for herbal remedies.

Benefits of Alfalfa

Alfalfa is rich in minerals, vitamins, and other nutrients. It contains vitamins A, Bi, B6, C, E, and K. It has calcium, carotene, iron, potassium, and zinc, which can be taken in the form of leaves, seeds, or tablets. Alfalfa is high in protein and even one cup of alfalfa sprouts contains 1.3 grams of protein. Both the sprouts and the leaf preparations help lower blood cholesterol levels.

Alfalfa and Hair loss/Growth

It has been said alfalfa can help with hair loss because alfalfa is rich in calcium, magnesium, potassium, and folic acid to just name a few. It also seems that alfalfa juice, carrot juice, and lettuce juice is the right combination to stop hair loss in its tracks because of the carotene and minerals in all three. With all the vitamins and minerals it is no wonder our hair benefits from this plant. With the copper, magnesium, and zinc it is a great source for stronger hair and a healthy scalp. They are extremely useful for all round development of hair growth.

Eating the sprouts in salads or on sandwiches are optimal ways to gain all the benefits for your entire body and of course your hair but remember to rinse them thoroughly under the water for one to two minutes and allow them to drain before eating. Worried about how old those sprouts may be in the store? You can get your own seeds and grow them!

Ingredients

• 3 Tbsp. alfalfa seeds
• Wide-necked glass jar
• Cheesecloth big enough to cover top of glass jar
• Rubber band

Directions

1. Take alfalfa seeds and rinse under cold water and drain. 
2. Place them in a wide necked glass jar before adding cool water to the jar just enough to cover the seeds. 
3. Allow it to soak overnight. 
4. In the morning, attach the cheesecloth over jar opening and secure with rubber band. 
5. Strain the water through the cloth, making sure all the water is out or the seeds could rot. Do not remove seeds from jar. 
6. Rinse the seeds and the jar every day with pure water and after five days or so, the sprouts should be ready to eat! They can be added to salads, sandwiches, or stir-fry veggies.

Not into growing, juicing, or even eating your own sprouts? Then check out a few hair products that use alfalfa in them to bring the goodness right to your strands.

Hair Products with Alfalfa

• Nature’s Blessings Hair Pomade 
• Rusk Sensories Full Green Tea And Alfalfa Shampoo 
• Rusk Sensories Full Green Tea & Alfalfa Bodifying Conditioner 
• French Lavender – Everyday Conditioner 
• Mixed Greens Moisture Conditioner Unisex Conditioner by Mop
• Nexxus Rigid Gel Extreme Styler

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 29, 2015

Oleic acid (40-50%”> and linoleic acid (40-50%”> are saturated fatty acids that make up a huge chunk in this highly resourceful oil. Oleic acid is an acid our bodies make while linoleic acid is essential fatty acid our bodies need and cannot make. Both are assets to hair, as your scalp’s sebum is made with these acids. There are other prominent fatty acids like palmitic acid, stearic acid, and arachidic acid. These ingredients make this oil nourishing and hydrating to the skin and hair by increasing collagen synthesis. Collagen protein provides strength for our tresses, but as we age our naturally occurring collagen production begins to diminish. This oil is a great way to combat the aging process!

This oil is known for softening, protecting, hydrating, and nourishing the skin and hair

This oil has a high iodine content, which is an essential mineral and is prescribed as a topical treatment to stimulate hair growth in people suffering with alopecia areata. Apple seeds are jam packed with vitamins and minerals that include calcium, iron, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, and sulfur. This oil is known for softening, protecting, hydrating, and nourishing the skin and hair and can be found in some shampoos, conditioners, and cosmetics. Dying to make your own apple seed oil? Here’s a step-by-step recipe.

DIY Apple Seed Oil 

• 10 lbs. Apples (your choice”>
• Wax paper
• Oil extractor press
• 3 oz. amber bottle
• Knife

Instructions

1. Cut the apples and extract the seeds. 
2. Lay the seeds on the wax paper and cover them with another sheet of wax paper.
3. Leave them to dry fully for about 48 hrs.
4. Place the dried seeds in the funnel portion of the oil extractor press and place the amber bottle under the filter funnel. 
5. Crank the handle until all the seeds have passed through the press and all the oil has been extracted. You should be left with 1 ½ ounces.

Have you tried apple seed oil?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 29, 2015

Do oils have proteins?

Yes…if contaminated. Wait a minute…what? According to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., essential oils are created through distillation, which is a purification process that separates substances from one another via condensation or evaporation. Proteins are destroyed as their bonds are broken down during the process of distilling. Beyond distillation, proteins have even bigger issues than just the separating of the substances.

Dr. David Stewart states, “The range of molecular weights that can pass through distillation ranges up to 500 amu. Proteins and enzymes have molecular weights that range well above 10,000 amu.” Remember that without hydrolyzing proteins, they are too large to penetrate and adsorb to the hair cuticle. They are too big to pass through the purification process and cannot fare the process itself, but if an oil is cold pressed there may be the presence of proteins remaining from the flesh or pulp of the fruit, herb, or plant.

I mentioned them being immense because even if they are present during cold pressing, they would still be unable to penetrate the hair cuticle or even administer to the cellular level, the way a distilled oil would. So even if present, they would not be benefiting your hair in the same way as hydrolyzed proteins that have been broken down. So, if you are protein sensitive, then oils are the least of your concerns.

So even if present, these proteins would not be benefiting your hair in the same way as hydrolyzed proteins that have been broken down.

Now, you may wonder about carrier oils, but according to the chemist from The Natural Haven, coconut oil does not contain protein. Coconut oil is separated from the coconut flesh through heating and using a sieve. Coconut milk does contain proteins as the milk is made “from suspending the flesh in water and may contain bits of the flesh.”

Conclusion

If an essential oil is distilled, then proteins are not present, as they cannot pass through the distillation process required to yield the essential oil. They are too big and may even end up being demolished by the process. There are techniques, such as cold pressing, where proteins may be present but they are too big to actually penetrate the hair’s cuticle, bond, and temporarily rebuild it. You run into a similar problem with carrier oils or at the very least coconut oil, as its process requires heat, which removes the proteins. So, yes some oils contain proteins but regardless of how the oil is extracted, they are too large to bind and strengthen the individual strands.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 26, 2015

When you think of twists, most think of the popular natural hairstyle called the twist out. You can rock the twists by themselves or form them into countless styles that will give you days and weeks of protective style with minimal hassle. Twist outs and twists are great but if you have fine, low density hair then you may prefer the chunkier look. One means of creating a fuller, protective style is with extensions. Hair extensions have lasted the test of time, and as hairstyles change, extensions continue to be relevant, stylish, and an easy way to spruce up a look. Many women are already aware of waves and braids for hair extensions but twists are making a huge mark in new ways to add hair to gain fullness, length, and versatility.

Now is a great time to try out twists for the first time! There are Marley twists, Nubian twists, Senegalese twists, Havana twist, and kinky twist, and I am sure there will be a new one out in 2015. The styles are growing in numbers and so has the interest over the last few years with no letup in 2015. In the event that you want extension twists, there are a few rules that all twists require for a great look that will not cause breakage or pain.

Do not make them too tight

“Most breakage and traction alopecia is caused by too-tight extensions,” says Diane Bailey, natural hair consultant and celebrity hair stylist. Extensions that are too tight can cause long-term damage or hair loss so worry less about how long the styles lasts and more about removing only your added hair when it is time for them to be removed.

Be gentle with those edges/baby hairs

I jest but want to make it clear perfectly clear just how fragile your edges and nape. Traction alopecia and other forms of hair loss are not always reversible. I promise, your style still looks good with a bit of frizz.

Take a break

Taking out your twists or any extensions to immediately install new ones is a good way to beat up your hair and scalp. They both need a break and that means some TLC with a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment and some air. Give your hair a few weeks off from the extensions or for the very least a weekend.

Unsure? Go to a professional

DIY is running the world but do not feel like you have to do it yourself if you cannot or do not feel confident. You end up with less worry, less hassles, and the assurance that you will have a gorgeous and long-lasting style.

Read more: Ask Dr. Kari: Effective Protective Styling

Regular twisting products work well on extensions

There seems to be some misunderstanding on which products are best for twisting natural hair and blending extensions. Well, it is time to share this nugget of information because some may be wasting precious time and money looking for twisting creams, gels, and butters specifically for extensions. One of the reasons you should use the same products you use on your own hair is because the extensions will be in your hair for weeks or a couple of months. You want a polished result but you also want harmony with your hair and the added hair. Finding products that will give you everything you want may take trial and error, but make sure your hair is happy with it first and the extension hair second.

No one is saying disregard the harmony of your strands and the extension hair together, but the health of your hair should always take precedence. Now, you should find the ones that work the best for you, because it will end up giving you shine, hold, and super smoothness. It might help to twists on your own tresses with the product to see how it works before adding your extensions. Need a little help in that area? No worries, because we picked the top seven we like the best to make your twist extensions perfect!

• Jane Carter Solution Twist & Lock 
• As I Am Twist Defining Cream 
• Aunt Jackie’s Curls & Coils Girls Baby Girl Curls Curling & Twisting Custard 
• MYHoneyChild Twist Out Crème 
• Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter 
• Bee Hold Curly Butter
• Darcy’s Botanicals Coconut Butter Styling Pomade 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 20, 2015

We know shampoos are cleansers formulated with detergents that act like surfactants, which cling to the very elements we want out of our hair. The dirt, sweat, and product buildup are removed with effective shampoos but what is lather? I asked scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., for a little understanding of lather: “Shampoos are made of the chemical sodium laureth sulfate (SLS”> and cocamidopropyl betaine (SLES”>. SLS is in there for cleansing and the betaine is there for lathering. Betaine is actually what produces the bubbles or what we call lather.”

Read more: A Beginner’s Guide to Shampoo and Co-Wash

We have been conditioned to accept and expect lather in our cleansers. Women with textured hair have a love/hate relationship with shampoos because they can create tangles and dryness. Curlies and coilies are stepping away standard products that were not created with our tresses in mind. One of the first things on the chopping block was the use of shampoo.

As many began stepping away from SLS shampoos, there was always the nagging pull to return because many of the new SLS-free shampoos or even cleansing conditioners lacked the bubbles. They had neither suds nor main ingredients that were associated with the word shampoo. Like many, when I think of shampoo, I think of lather although they are not one in the same. We know the harsh detergents like SLS can be too callous to our tresses but what about the betaine?

“If you made a shampoo with just SLS it would clean the hair regardless,” Anderson states. “But consumers believe if it’s lathering, it’s cleaning. The best example I can give of a cleaning agent without lathering is when Egyptians used to cleanse their skin with olive oil…sliding dirt off their skin.”

That is an interesting tidbit and from personal experience I am  well aware of the cleaning effectiveness of oils, as I have been using the oil cleansing method to wash my face for over a year now. I also use cleansing co-washes, which were an adjustment to get use to the absence of lather, but is it necessary to do so? I decided to see what were the benefits and drawbacks.

Pros of Lather in Cleansers

• Cocamidopropyl betaine is obtained from coconut oil. 
• A little more than half of the chemical contains water. 
• It is a mild antiseptic and has mild germicidal effects.

Cons of Lather in Cleansers

• Cocamidopropyl betaine is obtained from coconut oil but it has been chemically processed via dimethylaminopropylamine and there are byproducts of salt and some impurities. 
• It can irritate the skin or you can be allergic to betaine. 

So technically, lather is not necessary to cleanse the hair. I have recently become leery of using any cleanser with too much lather, as I worry it may be drying to my tresses. I always stick to sulfate-free cleansers when I need to clarify, but to each his own as we have learned that lather is not a necessity in cleaning your tresses.

Read more: Top 10 Co-washes and Cleansing Conditioners

So curlies, is lather is a priority or passed over? 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 15, 2015

The market has become a tad complicated with our inclusion, as manufacturers have altered their language to sustain and draw new consumers. It is kind of flattering that we can move mountains like that, but this massive amount of information has become confusing, and for a newbie it can be downright disheartening. Many newbies do not know what to use or understand the terms cleanser, a co-wash, or even sulfate-free shampoo and whether you need all three? Well, I will help you understand these various products.

Shampoo & Co-wash Conditioner

Shampoos and co-washes (also known as cleansing conditioners“> are cleansers. Both cleanse the hair of pollutants, sweat, dirt, and even oils. Shampoos contain detergents and these detergents act like surfactants, which are surface active agents. According the chemistry expert Dr. Anne Marie Helmenstine, this allows the detergent to be less likely to adhere to oils, dirt, and pollutants. Shampoos tend to have the harshest detergents or sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, or sodium laureth sulfate.

Co-washing or conditioner washing is very similar to shampooing because the object of this cleanser is to remove pollutants just like shampoo but with less vigor and determent. Co-washing is a method of cleaning the hair for many curly, coily, or wavy haired-women because shampoo is often too harsh on their delicate strands and removes many of the natural oils that these hair types need. There is still the act of cleansing and many co-washing products do have surfactants but not as highly concentrated as a typical shampoo and are usually plant-based or even fruit based like tangerine.

Read more: Remember When Co-wash and Pre-poo Were Just Techniques

The confusion of co-washing comes into play for many newbies because many use a products labeled co-washes while others simply use a regular conditioner or what some would call a botanical conditioner. A botanical conditioner is simply a conditioner that has high concentrations of plant-based ingredients (lemongrass, rosemary, tea tree oil”> and most often do not contain sulfates or silicones. They will lightly but effectively cleanse the hair without stripping it of the natural oil that textured hair craves.

Bottom line

Cleansers have surfactants that remove product buildup from that is heavy, like silicones. Many who do co-wash regularly may still need to cleanse with a shampoo regularly (depends on the individual on how often”> or use a clarifying shampoo that is formulated to remove all buildup more effectively than regular shampoo.

Co-wash conditioners or botanical conditioners will have plant-based ingredients that cleanse but not as harshly as shampoos. They will both have fatty alcohols or long-chain alcohols that function as emollients. Emollients give our favorite products the slip that makes detangling much easier. They are not bad for our hair and some examples of popular ones are cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol. These good alcohols coupled with the plant-based cleansers can give a curly girl the best of both worlds when it comes to cleansing her tresses and encasing the hair shaft with a photo protective shield. These conditioners may also have humectants that will draw moisture into your strands and even have moisturizers that will add softness and control the hair.

How do you prefer to cleanse your hair?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 14, 2015

As an adult, it was a tad more evolved and engrossing. I was less of a spectator and more of a participant. It was a space for women to be women without worrying. Yes, it is the place to get glammed, as you can walk in looking a hot mess and walk out strutting like a diva on the red carpet. That is what a hair salon can do for and to a woman.

Now, I no longer frequent them. After moving to Denver and experiencing the drier climate, I went natural and pretty much cut all ties from the hair salons. Over the past nine years I have gone to a few and felt a twinge of familiarity and remorse for leaving them out of my life, but for the most part they no longer played an important place in my daily, weekly, or even monthly routine. What are the valuable parts of my past I might be missing?

The Pampering

I cannot tell you how much I miss someone else slowly moving their fingertips through my tresses and massing my scalp. Before I left New Orleans, the shop I was going to was crude in nature (it was a glorified shed behind the stylist’s house”> but she was a master cosmetologist. Miss Jean pulled you in with her reasonable prices and she hooked you with her skills. Many have fallen asleep and even snored while she washed away your dirt and tension.

She was a masseur if you ask me. What she did to your scalp and head was amazing. I could melt in that chair because she took her time massaging every inch of your scalp as your worries and pains rinsed down the drain. Many salons are all about pampering with food, music, and the understanding that this is where women go to get away from the stresses of life.

The Gossip

Shallow? Yes. Needed? Not really. Enjoyed and expected? Most definitely! The hair salon was where women came to vent, flaunt, lie, expose, and open up. It was where you got the latest on anything from the new Bey pic (to make you question her being pregnant or not”> to your neighbor’s latest conquest. It was a safe space (if you were not the topic of conversation”> and a place to make you laugh so hard you would almost pee on yourself.

Gossip can be good and bad, and because its duality is accepted in the hair salon. Finding out or keeping in the know of your favorite stylists and stars is always a way to connect with others who might only see during trips to the salon. It was a way to connect with your neighbors and now that I live with a lot less black folks around it would be a great way to feel connected again and I miss that. More than I sometimes realize.

Business Connections

The hair salon breaks down barriers and there is a commonality (i.e. stylist”> among the clients. You love my stylist too? Because of this, our business world naturally spills into that. We have lives outside the salon and if you want to meet clients, potentials partners, or new networks then the salon is the perfect place. From small business owners to CEOs, the salon bridges the gap and leaves everyone on equal footing.

I miss seeing new and old faces and perusing wares that are being sold at the salon. I was introduced to businesses that I did not know existed when I encountered women looking to network and talk shop. It is a great way to meet some who are not in your inner circle.

The Community

Every salon has a strong sense of community. In years past, the who, what, where, and why was found out in the salon. Do not be fooled into thinking politics were only being discussed in barbershops! Women have always had their ear to the political pulse and discussed the news of the day or even the century. Neighborhoods, subdivisions, cities, and states were discussed as well as the plight of our world, children, and relationships. It was a haven for the ones who had no one to talk to.

Inspiration

The hair salons are a breeding ground for style, fashion, and beauty. You walk in feeling low and walk out feeling like you are on cloud nine, as you have been pampered, primped, and perfected. Yes, we are more than our physicals selves, but denying the significance of outer beauty is unrealistic. All women want to be beautiful, look stunning, and feel inspired to take on the day or task at hand. Have you ever had that banging hairstyle that made your head stand higher and put more bounce in your walk? That is the power purpose of the hair salon. Ain’t many places can do that and do it well.

What are some of your nostalgic memories from the salon?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 13, 2015

I hate to be so pissy on the start of a new year but as 2014 was pretty hectic for curlies, coilies and wavies, it is time to set the record straight on a few things. Curly hair is beautiful hair. Coily hair is beautiful hair. So is wavy and kinky and even nappy if you choose to use that word. I know that words are painful as well as uplifting but in 2014 we had a few tense moments…oh, who am I kidding…

We had some disastrous moments for natural-haired women.

From the Army dissing natural hairstyles with new hair regulations to the schools finding our hair distracting—you name it, we saw it, heard it or felt it in 2014. While each instance had its own singular negative core, there was a commonality among all…our natural hair was being judged and judged harshly. In my world of natural hair I am constantly surrounded by women of all races enjoying the natural hair that has been growing out of their head since birth. It has been a revolution from chemical bondage whether relaxing one’s hair or just covering up their grays.

More women are embracing their naturalness (I love that word”> and that is mostly all I see, hear, breath or relate to. Sometimes I have to remind myself that is not the ‘real’ world for many women who find themselves alone and confronted with family, friends, and even co-workers who demean their choice to go natural.

When do I get the wakeup call?

Too often it is on a forum or group when a woman is being considered for a job but told in the interview that her natural hair was a distraction or not professional enough for that environment and is she willing to change it.

Oh yes, this is still occurring and as recently as last month a woman in a natural hair group on Facebook was wondering what she should do about her dilemma. I was shocked and appalled and finally just downright irritated that we as women have to still feel the need or be told to alter ourselves for acceptance. Nevertheless, this brings me to the point of this rant. I am about tired of this negativity shroud that has been looming over the heads of natural haired women. This…judgment if you will that others feel more than comfortable to force upon us on what they deem acceptable on our person.

So I am asking that we as a group of, (oh let’s just call ourselves humans shall we?”> make 2015 the year for dropping the judgments, negativity, and hate on natural hair.

Now, I could start a petition on Change.org and it might even become popular or even get thousands of signatures but honestly, who would we be directing our anger or need for change to?  Society as a whole? Of course the vast majority of the signatures would be from naturals and maybe that would even be enough for a grand statement that gains support but in the ‘real’ world again, does that woman who is being harassed at work or at home… is that petition really going to reach and save her from her private natural hair hell?

I hate to give the impression of failure before I even get something started but being the devil’s advocate oftentimes gives me the clarity to figure out what needs to be done. I know what needs to happen but I am perplexed on how to actually make it happen.

A new year should require a new attitude and for 2015 we need more people to mind their own businesses when it comes to others and their hair. More folks need to mind their own business on the regular but I do not have enough time to get all into that and sometimes I can get lost in the rabbit hole of rights.

The bottom line is, less judging and more accepting for 2015.

If I want to rock an undefined fro then let me and keep your frown, snarls or outbursts to yourself. If I want to dye my coils teal then look the other way and remember you can do it too, if you wanted to. If you want to hire me then my skills will outweigh my hair and actually are you hiring my hair or my brain?

I just want to be left alone and so does my hair so before you utter one word of judgment against me or another natural (especially if you are one of us”> remember you want to be left alone on your natural hair journey to do as you please as well. I am really looking forward to more acceptance or even indifference but refusing to acknowledge any judgments. I just got too much goodness going on and my fro is way too fierce for that nonsense!

Rock you and I’ll rock me and let 2015 be all about loving oneself and appreciating others. Now who’s with me here?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 13, 2015

Collagen is a protein made up of amino acids. To fully understand collagen you have to first understand our skin, which consists of three layers: epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. The upper-most layer is the epidermis, which regulates the loss of water from the cells and tissue. Right below the epidermis level lies the dermis and it is primarily made up of protein or collagen. There is a network of fibers that is the foundation for the growth of those cells and blood vessels and collagen acts as a support structure for the skin. There is also collagen in the hypodermis, which is a layer of fat and connective tissues that contains even larger blood vessels and nerves.

We already know about the benefits of hydrolyzing proteins so they may be small enough to adsorb to your strands. Hydrolyzed collagen is one of those proteins that will also bind water to your hair by attracting and retaining it there. Hydrolyzed collagen protein is derived from bovine bone and cartilage and will temporarily bond the hair and stave off breakage when put under tension.

Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work

Products with collagen

• Simply Smooth Xtend Keratin Reparative Magic Potion
• OGX Thick & Full Biotin & Collagen Shampoo
• OGX Thick & Full Biotin & Collagen Root Boost Spray
• ApHogee Balancing Moisturizer
• Ouidad Tress Effects Styling Gel 

Many of the products formulated with collagen do not just claim it will improve the hair’s appearance, but it will work in the outside of the hair to surround the hair and protect it. Not sure about at-home products? Consider a collagen hair treatment at a salon. The ultra-posh Roy Teeluck Salon in New York City offers a collagen spa treatment + blow-out featuring Concentré de Collagène. This signature product is a scalp treatment with collagen, peptides, and botanicals that boasts of enriching the scalp while making the hair fuller and more voluminous. The treatment and blow-out will set you back $110, so if that is just too rich for your blood then you can try popular brands of collagen supplements:

• Neocell Super Collagen Type 1 and 3 
• youtheoryTM Collagen Advanced Formula Collagen Type 1, 2 & 3 
• Neocell Super Powder Collagen, Type 1 and 3 

Food to help collagen

• Red vegetables have lycopene that can increase your collagen levels. 
• Dark green vegetables rev up collagen production.
• Orange veggies are rich in vitamin A and regenerate your damaged collagen. 
• Berries do double duty by scavenging free radicals and increasing collagen. 
• Soy promotes collagen production and helps to block enzymes that can age your skin.  

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 12, 2015

What is champagne?

Champagne is sparkling or carbonated wine that is produced in the champagne region of France. It is produced from highly specific varieties of grapes like chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier.  The extraction methods that minimize contact between the juice and the skin of the grapes are what make it turn into a white wine. Champagne gets its unique bubbles from the wine undergoing a secondary fermentation process within the bottle and the gasses produced during this second fermentation and create the sparkling or carbonated effect.

What makes Champagne good for your hair?

This well-guarded secret is really not a secret at all…if you know the right people that is. Just ask Joel Warren of the posh New York City Warren-Tricomi Salon where champagne is not just for sipping. Joel explains that champagne is an excellent hair treatment for helping your tresses achieve smoother and silkier hair. The bubbly is perfect for blondes because it enhances the golden tones and highlights, but it will boost shine in all hair colors and the carbonation will add volume. Have you ever purchased a bottle of champagne that you hated? Well, make an easy hair rinse!

Classy Champagne Hair Rinse

• ½ champagne
• ½ cup of hot water

After shampooing or co-washing, apply the mixture of the champagne with hot water and distribute evenly throughout your hair. Allow it to sit for a few minutes before rinsing and styling as usual.

Another trick to use with champagne is adding volume to your heat-styled hair. For extra lift, spritz champagne directly onto your roots before blow-drying your tresses.

What is caviar?

To put it plainly, caviar is fish eggs or fish roe, and not every fish makes caviar, which is known to be expensive. Sturgeon, the lumbering, toothless fish with the prehistoric appearance has its eggs harvested for caviar. The eggs are filtered to remove the fatty tissues and membrane and lightly salted with non-iodized salt. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, true caviar comes from only the sturgeon even though any unfertilized eggs of nearly any female fish can be eaten.

What are the benefits of caviar for your hair?

These fish eggs contain vitamins and minerals that are intended to nourish the unborn fish. Caviar is a rich source of vitamin A and vitamin D along with omega-3 fatty acids. Vitamin A helps to produce healthy sebum, which will prevent your hair from drying out and breaking off. A deficiency in vitamin D may lead to hair loss and omega-3 fatty acids may help reduce hair loss. It also has zinc, which is essential to your immune system and strengthens the hair follicles to help prevent certain types of hair loss.

Now, just eating caviar to obtain these benefits may not be the best way to get its nutrients to your tresses because caviar is high in calories and salt. Do not fret because there are several hair products on the market that will allow you to reap the rewards without stretching your waistline or your blood pressure by overindulging. Two popular products with caviar extract come from CURLS and ALTERNA.

Products with champagne and caviar

• CURLS Champagne & Caviar Curl Elixir  – with soybean oil, virgin coconut oil, ethylhexyl palmitate (fatty acid”>, champagne extract and caviar extract you get a growth enhancing, hair strengthen treatment that will give you the sheen from the champagne and the hair growth potency from the caviar. 
• ALTERNA Caviar Anti-Aging Overnight Hair Rescue– the caviar extract in this overnight hair rescue will help to repair your hair while you sleep. No greasy residue on your pillow or sheets and it is deeply penetrating. 

To my fancy curlies and coilies, have you tried products with champagne or caviar?