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Is that Oil a Moisturizer or a Sealer? You Should Know the Difference
Photo Courtesy of Stylish Lee
What is a moisturizing oil? What is sealing oil? Better yet, what exactly is the difference between the two? It all boils down to what the difference between a moisturizer and a sealant is. According to the Mayo Clinic, moisturizers prevents and treat dry skin as they hold water in the outermost layer of the skin. The sealant on the other hand does not bring the moisture to your strands, but just holds it in. The moisturizer brings it and the sealant keeps it there; this also applies to the hair. So in a nutshell (pun included”>, they are both oils but some will penetrate the hair shaft and induce moisture while others will seal the moisture that is already there.  

The power of natural oils

Do not discount the power of natural oils. Whether you are discussing essential or carrier, natural oils bring numerous benefits to our bodies and strands. Essential oils are used extensively in aromatherapy while some are even used by traditional medicinal systems. Carrier oils or base oils are often filled with essential fatty acids that aid in cleaning, skincare, hair care, massage, and even cooking. They are quite often used to dilute the potent essential oils, as they are extremely concentrated. Both carrier and essential oils are revered for their cleansing, aid in moisturizing, sealing and healing either together or separately.

Now, in general oils alone are not moisturizers but there are a few oils that will penetrate the hair shaft and soften the hair from within. So, some oils moisturize while others merely seal. That means some soak in while others just coat the hair. Which is which and why? I had to consult a professional to get more information.

Sister Scientist breaks it down

It takes a real chemist to explain what is going on with oils and their penetration levels, so Sister Scientist was gracious enough to share her knowledge on the subject.

“The level of penetration is determined by the size of the oil molecule and polarity.  Coconut oil, being the most penetrable of natural oils, is very high in triglycerides containing short chain fatty acids, making the molecules small enough to penetrate the cuticle layer. It is also more polar (positively charged”> than most oils, which makes it more attracted to the negatively charged proteins in hair.

Moisturize

Oils that are more likely to penetrate deeper into the hair shaft include:

  • coconut oil
  • sunflower oil
  • palm kernel oil
Seal (with a little moisture”>

Oils that may also penetrate slightly beyond the outer cuticle layer, but are better to be used as oils to seal, coat, and lubricate the hair to prevent moisture loss and increase softness include:

  • olive oil
  • avocado oil
  • argan oil
Seal

Oils that contain very bulky lipid chains make the molecules bigger, and highly unlikely to penetrate, but are great to enhance shine and lubrication for ease of combing. They include:

  • jojoba oil
  • rice bran oil

A 2005 study confirms that heat can help oils that are already likely to penetrate the hair to penetrate faster.”

Best Way to Use Oils

  • Moisturizing/penetrating oils: coconut oil, sunflower oil, and palm kernel oil
  • Partially penetrating and sealing oils: avocado oil, olive oil, and argan oil
  • Sealing oils: jojoba oil and rice bran oil

There are differences in penetration levels with popular oils and knowing their levels can only aid in giving your tresses what they need, whether from within the hair shaft or merely coating it. Use heat when you want your penetrating oils to permeate the hair shaft faster. When using oils for a pre-shampoo or merely to seal your ends, several natural oils are useful in protecting your hair on superficial and cellular levels.

Follow Natasha Leeds here:

Stylish Lee and Instagram

Which are your favorite oils for moisturizing and sealing?


References:

Journal of Cosmetic Science, 56, 283-295 (September/October 2005″> 

Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. K. KEIS, D. PERSAUD, Y. K. KAMATH, and A. S. RELE.

Henna and 7 More Powders for Healthier Hair

hair powder

Our remarkable planet is rich with natural plants, herbs, water, and even slime that aid in healthy, gorgeous tresses that thrive and remain frizz-free. For over 5,000 years Ayurveda has been India prized in India for health benefits. Ninety percent of the continent’s population uses some form of Ayurveda therapy that is entirely holistic and strives to keep harmony between the mind, body, and spirit while preventing illnesses. Yes, this is the perfect approach for healthy hair and body.

Amla powder

An Indian gooseberry, amla is the fruit with greenish yellow berries and a fibrous inner texture that grows on the myrobalan-tre, which is native to India and Burma. Phyllanthus emblica is its botanical name and it is harvested by hand in autumn. This fruit with a sour, bitter, and astringent taste has a high vitamin C content, which is excellent for boosting the immune system and the powder is often added to the roots of hair to add strength and shine.

Bhringaraj powder

Also known as Eclipta alba, this herb is an annual, creeping and moisture-loving herb. Bhringarj is the main herb for hair care in Ayurveda. It stops premature graying by retaining the hair’s natural color. Its anti-inflammatory properties function as a scalp exfoliator to rid infections and reduce dandruff. It is most prized for combatting hair loss induced by medical condition and stress.

Brahmi powder

This creeping perennial is native to many parts of the world and most frequently found in tropical regions of the Asian continent. Bacopa monnieri is its botanical name and it is well-known as a hair thickener and possessing rejuvenating properties. Best used in combinations with other popular Ayurvedic powders like amla, bhringarj, shikakai, and neem to aid in strengthening hair’s roots.

Henna

This natural plant used for staining the skin (for decorations”> and coloring hair is made from the powdered leaves of a desert shrub plant lawsonia. The leaves of the henna plant contain lawsone and this orange/red dye is released as the leaves are crushed. This shrub grows in the tropical and subtropical regions of the world like Africa, Northern Australia, and Southern Asia and the purest quality henna is grown and harvested in Northwestern India. Henna does more for hair than coloring, as it stops hair breakage, seals in moisture, and repairs the hair’s cuticle and has some conditioning properties.

Hibiscus petal powder

Also known as Jaswand or Jaswandi, this plant grows mostly in tropical regions of the world. Its botanical name is Hibiscus sabdariffa and can be found as the main ingredient in many refreshing teas made around the world. Hibiscus petal powder enhances the red tones in hair when used with henna to achieve cherry color in hair. Great as a gentle cleanser (perfect for a scalp scrub”> and a conditioning herb that helps decrease hair shedding by strengthening and condition the roots. Gain volume and shine with this hair loving herb.

Marshmallow root powder

From the Malvaceae plant family, this perennial herb is native to damp areas of northern Europe and Western Asia. Its botanical name is Althaea officinalis and has been most commonly used to ease sore throats and dry coughs. It is a valuable ingredient in hair products, as it will aid in treating eczema, psoriasis, and a dry scalp. It is also beloved in the curly hair community as the gel-like substance is superior for detangling.

Neem leaf powder

All parts of the neem tree are used in traditional medicine. Azadirachta indica is its botanical name and the tree is native to India. This natural herb is powerfully effective on fighting diseases with its antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties. It helps to treat scalp ailments, promote healthy hair growth, and is believed to aid in relieving hair loss that occurs from excess sebum that clogs the pores of the scalp or by psoriasis and eczema. Neem leaf powder can treat those conditions and cleanse the scalp for healthy hair growth.

Shikakai powder

Translating to “hair-fruit” or “fruit for hair”, this shrub-like tree grows in central India. It is high in vitamins A, C, D, E, and K along with antioxidants. It has been used for centuries as a cleanser for body and hair because of its cleansing properties. A reliever of dandruff, it also has detangling properties and will promote hair strengthening and conditioning.

Most of these powders can be made into a paste with distilled water and used either alone or with other powders and oils for outstanding hair masks, cleansers, conditioners, and gels. All of these natural powders will bring wonderful benefits to your hair so which is your favorite or which one are you ready to try?

What Your Hair Damage Says About You

Hair damage is nothing to be ashamed of nor should you feel like a failure if you are dealing with it right now. It happens to the best of us, and if you are around long enough you will likely experience some form of damage at some point in your hair journey.  No worries though, if you know how to spot the signs of damage you can stop it before it worsens and work to prevent it from happening again. Here are the top four types of hair damage and what you can do about them.

1. Your hair won’t curl anymore

If you use heat styling tools and you find that your hair refuses to revert back to its curly, coily or wavy state even after you wash and condition your tresses, it may be heat damage. Other telltale signs are that the hair is brittle or has lost its elasticity. Heat damage can occur after several heat applications or just from one.  These damaged pieces can occur just in one spot or several sections in your head.

The health of your hair has been compromised either by using heat appliances too often, or using excessively high temperatures. Healthy hair burns at just over 450F, this temperature is much lower for hair that has already been damaged. Curling irons, flat irons and blow dryers can be misused when their heat settings are too high, and even with the use of heat protectant you can still burn your hair with just one application.

The solution: Cut it off or temporarily treat it

First and foremost, stop applying heat to your hair. There are numerous ways to dry your tresses and even wear them straight without applying heat, so opt for heatless styles at least until your hair is healthy again.

Unfortunately, heat damage cannot be repaired. It can be prevented or even treated but it cannot be repaired. Cutting the heat-damaged strands off is an immediate solution to the problem, but it is not the only way to handle it. One reason to consider alternative solutions is if you only have damage to one or two sections of hair, cutting it may create unevenness or cause you to resort to a much shorter style than you wanted.

Structural damage, a lifted or damaged cuticle or broken keratin chains in the cortex of the hair can be improved with the proper application of processed protein, under the right conditions. You can also treat the damaged strands with products specifically created for such events. ApHogee Shampoo for Damaged Hair restores sheen and pliability to your damaged strands but for the big guns you want the try the Two-Step Protein Treatment. This unique treatment which is formulated with magnesium and modified proteins aid in reducing hair’s damage.

As a precaution because you do not want the damage to travel up the hair shaft, get regular trims (maybe even more often”> while treating your hair.  This way your hair is growing while you are cutting it.

2. Your hair feels mushy when wet and hard when dry

These are signs that your hair is over-processed. Most commonly, chemical processing like color and straightening treatments, as well as mechanical damage from styling tools, are responsible for structural damage to hair. Chemicals are often designed to lift and penetrate the protective layer of the hair in order to change the shape or color. This begins to break down the integrity of the strands. Over-processed hair will have similar symptoms to heat-damaged hair, like brittleness and dryness, but unlike heat-damaged hair it may not be straight. Over-processed hair can be limp, mushy when wet and brittle after drying, full of split ends, and you may find that your hair does not hold color well.  Many complain of their hair feeling hard when there was no hard feeling to their strands before.  If your hair is feeling “hard” and you have been using chemical treatments, it may be time to acknowledge the damage.

The solution: Condition, condition, condition! And treat

Again, the first step is to stop the chemical treatments that have over-processed your tresses. Opt for natural coloring methods like using henna, find less harmful methods of straightening your hair, or wear your hair curly until it is healthy.  Cleanse your hair with cleansers that will add moisture instead of stripping it.  ApHogee Deep Moisture Shampoo is a great choice for regaining your hair’s elasticity and moisture levels.

Then condition, condition, condition!  Your hair needs to be pampered.  Hot oil treatments, deep conditioners and moisturizing leave-in conditioners will become mandatory during each wash cycle. The ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment can help rebuild the damaged strands, and incorporating Aphogee Balancing Moisturizer afterward will combat your hair’s dryness by sealing in the much-needed moisture.

3.  Your edges are thinning

Your edges are thinning when find your scalp becoming increasingly exposed and the hair framing your face beginning to thin. This can be from tight hairstyles pulling at your delicate edges, an unhealthy diet, stress or over-manipulation of styling tools.  The hairs around the nape and edges are delicate and when thinning it can be a sign of more damage to come so when you notice them do not ignore.

The solution: Stop high-tension hairstyles and regrow edges

If you wear braided styles, weaves or wigs it may be time to stop using them until your edges grow back. Either they were too tight or used excessively. Hair massages are excellent ways to increase blood flow to the scalp and hair follicles while conditioning the scalp and enhancing the strength of the roots. ApHogee Essential Oils for Hair can be used as a hot-oil treatment or a scalp massaging oil with its herbal, vitamin, and sweet almond oils.

4. Brittle, straw-like strands

Sometimes you can have too much of a good thing.  If you are using protein frequently (once a week or more”> it is possible that your hair could become brittle, dry and break off.  Even if you are not using an protein treatments that does not mean you are not using protein. Many of our regular hair products like gels, styling creams and even conditioners have protein in them so if used daily we may be creating a protein-overload.

The solution: Balance the moisture and protein

There must be a balance of moisture and protein in the hair for it to be healthy, and you can achieve this balance by being aware of what you are putting in your hair.  Excessively high protein can throw off you’re the natural moisture levels of your hair. Depending on your hair, daily and weekly protein treatments could be too much and regular products with protein should be used sparingly. Bring back the moisture to straw-like hair with ApHogee’s Balancing Moisturizer and Pro-Vitamin Leave-in Conditioner.


This article is sponsored by ApHogee.

Why We Need More Women in the Beauty Industry

Contrary to what the statistics surrounding women in scientific career fields may lead us to believe, science is not just for men. Women are just as excited about science. Yes, we are doctors, astronauts, and scientists! As our country grows in numbers in the areas of STEM (science, technology, engineering, and math”> the growth is sluggish and disheartening for women. The U.S. Department of Commerce put out a report in 2011 that showed only one in seven engineers are women and there have not been any employment growth for women in STEM jobs since 2000. We need role models to start the growth for our little girls so I sat down with Sister Scientist to discuss the problem and give us some insight into her scientific world of beauty and wonder. 

What are your thoughts about an industry that is male dominated and caters to minority women?

Beauty has been a male dominated field for years! Men have made significant contributions to the beauty space and admittedly can provide a valuable perspective and touch, but I have been very excited to see more women rise to more powerful roles in this space. We’re not just the pretty faces on the packaging, we should be the brains behind the brands too because who knows what a woman wants better than a woman.

When I first started, the product development side of the business was definitely the good ol’ boys club and it was hard at times working in a man’s world knowing that you understood the psyche of the black woman better than any of them.
I had to learn how to be confident and leverage “who I am” into a career advantage by translating my experiences into tangible and profitable results in the marketplace through my contributions.

Is the beauty industry (scientists”> still a male-dominated field or do you see a trend of more women entering?

I am starting to see more women enter the field of cosmetic chemistry, which is awesome, but I would say we have a ways to go. I love receiving emails from young ladies currently working on degrees in science related fields, telling me that they weren’t sure that they wanted to see it through, but by exposing them to my career path, they are more invigorated to stay the course and explore their options in the space. Knowing that the Sister Scientist brand is positively changing the path of young women’s careers is absolutely one of the most fulfilling feelings.

How can we get more girls interested in science?

I think the best way to create more interest in science among our young ladies is to provide them access to more women who they can relate to who are accomplished in creative and interesting STEM fields. We see doctors all the time (no shade to doctors, we definitely need them”>, but I believe children often have a very narrow exposure to all of the careers and possibilities with a background in STEM. I see it as my and my colleagues’ responsibility to show young women what we have been able to accomplish and the road that we took to get here.  We can show them what their future can look like, but it’s just as important to continue to support, encourage, and engage them to help ensure that they stay the course because it can be very difficult as a woman, especially a minority woman, in these fields. This was one of my main purposes for creating the Sister Scientist platform. I wanted expose more women to the science and business side of beauty. Beauty doesn’t just have to be hobby or interest; it offers very lucrative and engaging career opportunities. And this space needs more women in positions of authority who can speak to our needs in the boardroom and laboratory.

What sparked your initial interest?

I’m a problem solver. I see a problem and I want to immediately fix it. Growing up I had a number of hair and skin issues. My mom wouldn’t let me get a relaxer, and I could never find solutions to wear my natural hair in curly styles. I felt like I was presented with very few options. So I became a slave to my flat iron and hot comb since the age of ten. When I realized that I could use my chemical engineering degree to develop products that I wished I had growing up, I was sold on a career in beauty.

What or who inspired you?

Inspiration comes in a few ways. I am inspired by all of the beauty enthusiasts who I see and engage with via social media. I watch and listen to a very diverse collective of voices who express their likes, disappointments, and desires of what they want in their beauty regimens and I take note when I’m in the lab thinking of new products and ways to innovate older formulations. From a career perspective, I am inspired by the many women who have taken this industry by storm over the last decade, creating and building brands for women who look like us. Observing entrepreneurs like Lisa Price, Karen Tappin, and Jane Carter and how their “out-of-the-box” thinking has helped to change the landscape of beauty inspires me to do my part to help others build their dreams and encourage innovation in this space. This is why I started my company mSEED group, to be a resource for entrepreneurs and companies looking to do beauty differently.

What or who motivates you?

Having the freedom to pursue my various interests and ideas without having to ask for permission or being put “in a box” is what motivates me to work as hard as I do and succeed as an entrepreneur. Matter of fact, I just threw away the box. I believe that it allows me to stay creative and innovative.

Can you give some advice for anyone who is interested in the beauty industry in general or the research and development aspect?

Most formally trained cosmetic chemists have a degree in chemistry, or closely related science related field. There are only a few Masters programs that focus on the specific study of cosmetic chemistry, so most chemists in this field have learned through professional development classes, other experienced chemists and trial and error. I have a chemical engineering degree, which allows me to work on the mass production or manufacturing side of the development process as well as in the product development lab.

Other career paths to consider are in marketing, sales, or operations. Product management, distribution strategy, and supply chain management are very important aspects of building a successful brand in the beauty space. I found it valuable to go back to school to earn an MBA with a focus in marketing management and business strategy, so that I could better understand these areas of the business.

Look for internships with large personal care products companies like L’Oreal, Procter & Gamble, or Estee Lauder. Another side of the business that is often overlooked is the chemical/ingredient suppliers. Companies that provide the raw materials (or ingredients”> that brands use in the end-user’s product have a lot of entry-level opportunities. It’s a great way to learn the business. Also, use the power of your network. Valuable opportunities can come from sharing what you want to do with people. You never know who can help you connect you with the right people in the right places.

Follow Sister Scientist here:

Instagram and Facebook

Are you interested in entering the beauty industry?

Fine, Normal, and Coarse Hair: Why Width Matters

Curl pattern gets all the hype even though knowing your porosity is more helpful in building a regimen. With length being the next biggest obsession, most people never realize the importance of hair width. Width is an object’s distance from side to side with hair width being no different. Hair width refers to the actual thickness of the strands of hair and not the volume of hairs on your head. Knowing your hair’s width is just as important as knowing the curl pattern, because the more you know about your hair the better you can maintain its health and length. Selecting products and styling your hair require knowledge of what your hair needs and rejects.

Read more: This is Actually More Important than Your Curl Pattern

Types of hair width

Coarse

These strands have the widest and largest circumferences and this makes them the strongest of all hair textures.

Medium/Normal

As as the name suggests, this is the middle of the road for thickness of hair strands; neither too small nor too big. Medium texture is somewhat resistant to damage while being strong and elastic.

Fine

The circumference is extremely small and narrow, making it delicate and easy to damage.

Why it makes a difference

It affects how products perform…

Most product formulators are not taking into account your hair’s width when they formulate and make product claims. Your hair’s width will give your hair a unique feel after any product is applied, and that can be attributed to the health of your hair and the ingredients in the product. Do not expect the product maker or the retailer to give you all the answers on how it will affect your hair’s particular width. Trial and error will guide you on many occasions.

Finer strands tend to respond better to milks and leave-in conditioners while coarse strands love thick butters and creams. All of those products can differ in thickness so it will depend on the individual product.

It is often mistaken…

Not knowing your hair’s width can make for frustrating styling sessions and wasteful purchases. Oftentimes curlies confuse width with density when describing their hair. You may have dense hair with fine strands. A lot of strands does not mean coarse hair and thin hair does not mean fine hair. Once you have figured out the width of your strands, you can make better choices in styling, products, and how to foster length retention.

Read more: What Having “Hard” Hair Really Means and Your Hair is Fine, Not Thin

It determines your hair damage…

Stronger hair (healthy, coarse hair”> can be manipulated more than weaker or more fragile hair (healthy, fine hair”>, so it goes without saying that if you have fine strands then tightly braided styles and constant manipulation can be damaging. Even though we all need to give our hair a rest between sew-ins, braids, chemical treatments, and heat applications, if you have fine hair then being more cautious toward those applications is crucial for less damage and length retention.

What products to use with your hair’s width

This is not the Holy Grail of decision-making, because all of our curls are unique, we live in different geographical locations, are different ages, and have dissimilar genetics. Despite those differences, we can still find commonalities among hair width types that may assist you in product selections and styling.

Fine
You need to steer clear of heavier products, as they will weigh down your fine strands. Lightly layer products without being heavy-handed and make sure to deep condition after every wash, since your delicate strands need to be rebuilt after daily and weekly manipulation. Protein treatments can be used monthly or every few months to help rebuild the hair, especially if using heat or chemical treatments. Heavy butters may be too heavy for your strands (unless in the winter months”>, so try light butters like mango butter or coffee bean butter or use the lighter natural oils like grapeseed and almond oil.

Medium

Layering products is not an issue as your strands can withstand the weight better than those with fine strands. Deep conditioning should be applied after every wash (and if not then regularly”> along with an occasional protein treatment to rebuild the hair shaft, especially if using chemicals and heat applications. You can use the heavier butters and oils, but in moderation. 

Coarse
Your hair is not easily weighed down, but you need products that will allow you to retain moisture to stave off dryness. This hair is stronger but less elastic than medium width hair, so you can manipulate it more but of course in moderation, as it is not invincible to breakage. Never take its strength for granted and know that coarse hair can be prone to dryness, which can then lead to breakage. 
The DIY Superfruit Pre-Poo

Papaya is a superfruit that is growing in popularity due to all of its antioxidants. The flesh is a rich orange color, tastes amazingly sweet with musky undertones and has a soft, butter-like consistency. If you do not eat or use papaya in your beauty routine yet, its impressive benefits may inspire you to start. 

The health benefits of papaya

Their luscious taste and sunlit color of the tropics offer more than sweet fruit or juice. They are rich sources of antioxidant nutrients like carotenes, vitamins A, B, C, and flavonoids. They have folate, pantothenic acid, and popular minerals like copper, potassium, and magnesium. It contains one of the highest vitamin-C content for fruits, even higher than oranges or lemons. Medical News Todays says there have been many studies that suggest consuming fruits like papayas decrease the risk of obesity, diabetes, and even heart disease.

Dr. Maoshing Ni, who practices traditional Chinese medicine, says that the enzyme papain in papaya is incredible at breaking down fiber. Papain aids in digestion and is a protein-digestive enzyme that also lowers inflammation and helps to improve healing from burns.

Benefits of papaya on hair

With all the vitamins, minerals, and nutrients it is no wonder this is an amazing fruit for our hair. The rich nutrients help to stimulate hair growth and strengthen the hair. Many find it helpful in controlling dandruff and removing dirt and excess oil on the hair and scalp. The minerals, nutrients, and vitamins aid in fighting thinning hair and  many love using the extracts of the papaya leaf in hair conditioners for shine and reviving dull strands. Using a papaya hair mask as a conditioner or pre-shampoo treatment is quite popular.

Super Moisturizing Papaya Hair Mask

  • 1 cup ripe papaya, diced
  • 1 cup ripe banana, diced
  • 1 tbs. coconut oil
  • 1 tbs. molasses
  • 1 cup yogurt
  • 1 cup favorite deep conditioner (optional”>
Blend ingredients together well with to ensure no lumps or chunks. Apply to damp hair and cover with a plastic cap. Leave in for at least an hour with a warm towel. Wash out and style as usual. 

Papaya Pre-shampoo Treatment

  • ½ ripe avocado
  • few chunks of ripe papaya
  • ¼ cup of yogurt
Blend together well before applying to hair and scalp. Cover with plastic cap and leave on hair for 15 to 30 min. Rinse well, shampoo, condition, and style as usual. 

Product recommendations

If you are not a DIY-er, you can also find papaya in products on your store shelves. Here are a few that we recommend:

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4 Brands that Have Professional Collections Too

Curls are unique just like the lovely men and women who rock them. We may use some of the same products, but our coils, curls, and waves are as different as snowflakes. With hair porosity, pH balance, density, and curl pattern, we are forever on a hair care quest for the right products that will nurture, hydrate, and “defrizz” our lovely tresses. Natural hair newbies just starting out may become frustrated when trying to find a product. Even the seasoned curlies end up scratching their heads in the hair care aisle. 

What brands offer

Not all curlies want the least expensive option all the time. Yes, we love a bargain, but if you are inclined to more natural ingredients or if you are a professional hairstylist, then the drugstore that everyone buys may not be optimal for you. Providing separate drugstore and professional lines seem like a growing trend as more companies make the conscious decision to give more options to more curlies.

Curls

Curls has a few items for both lines as some items can be found at Target while others can only be found at their website or online stores like CurlMart. One such line you can only find on their site would be the Cashmere Curl collection. The Curls Cashmere Curl Collection caters to the curly who loves variety in her styling but knows she must use the right products to keep her tresses strong and healthy. There is the Cashmere Curls Moisturizer and the Cashmere Curl Jelly Curl Definer, which are both formulated with pure cashmere extract that is believed to repair damaged strands and improve elasticity by restoring depleted keratin. Another product like that collection would be the CURLS Champagne & Caviar Curl Elixir, which has champagne grape and caviar extracts.

Design Essentials 

Design Essentials is a natural hair care system that caters to all types of curls, but if you want to try their professional products, then you will need to contact a distributor or frequent a salon that uses them. They have a Design Essentials Salon Hair Care System with products that range from their Honey Crème Moisture Retention Conditioning shampoos to the DEEP Fortifying Treatment.

Ouidad Treatment 

The Ouidad Queen of Curl line is a favorite among many curlies, but were you aware they had some ultra-potent treatment products that will replenish the essential proteins and amino acids our hair needs to look and feel healthy? There is the Ouidad Deep Treatment Curl Restoration Therapy that is heat-activated and works at the cuticle level to restore your hair’s proteins and amino acids levels. The Curl Recover Melt Down Extreme Repair Mask will restore your hair’s depleted lipid barrier and the Ouidad Moisture Lock Leave-in Conditioner creates a balanced, breathable moisture foundation for your hair.

SheaMoisture 

SheaMoisture Professional is a new line of professional hair care products that are made from natural and certified organic ingredients. The purpose of this line is to give the stylists what they need to care for their client’s natural and curly textures. There are eight products in this collection from moisture infusion shampoos to vibrant color shine glazes. I expect to see this line in some salons very soon.

Do you use professional or drugstore products? Can you tell the difference?

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6 Amazing Local Beauty Brands Found at Whole Foods

I love Whole Foods. I love them for taking a stern stand on quality products and they only sell products that meet their rigorous standards: “From basic ingredients to farm animal welfare, seafood sustainability, body care, cleaning products and more, trust us to do the research so you can shop with peace of mind.” No hydrogenated fats or artificial colors, flavors, preservatives, or even sweeteners will ever be found in any aisle, and that includes the body care section. There are currently 50 ingredients that are common in body care products that are not even allowed in the body care products they sell at Whole Foods.  

Despite our country having no mandatory government standards for the “organic” label, Whole Foods sets its own high standards and any body care product claiming organic must have the USDA certification to back it up. What could make you feel even better about Whole Foods and their attention to what they sell? Well, for starters they carefully evaluate each and every product and also encourage their vendors to use plant-based and naturally derived ingredients and they refuse to sell products that have been tested on animals.

I love all of that about them but what I love even more is their celebration of small businesses and their dedication to local brands. They scour the market for locally owned brands everywhere they plant a store and how amazing is that? Nothing wrong with products from all over the planet being sold in stores, but sometimes locally owned businesses (especially small businesses”> can get overlooked, as competing with national brands can be challenging. To be on an even playing field on the shelves of a hugely popular and well-respected retailer like Whole Foods allows locally owned businesses to thrive.

I was eager to learn which locally owned beauty brands were in my Denver Whole Foods, only expecting to see one or even two brands. I was pleasantly surprised to find six between two stores. That was just the beauty brands! I was so excited about my find that I had to dig a little deeper to find out more about these amazing brands.

Amber Bath (Lakewood, CO”> 

Elizabeth White is the owner and product-creator for Amber Bath, which makes natural soaps, body scrubs, and body moisturizers form 100% all natural ingredients. They are all made from scratch right down the street from me in Lakewood, CO. They pride themselves on using local ingredients when they can. Elizabeth’s passion for personal well-being and quality-care products drives her to formulate new and unique soaps, lotions, and salves.

Follow Amber Bath on Facebook.

Leaf People Skin Care (Grand Junction, CO”>

Leaf People Skin Care was founded by herbalist Julie Levin in 2004. They use raw, organic ingredients for their products, which are for your face, body and bath. “All ingredients come from farms that practice one or more of the following: organic and/or biodynamic farming, ethical wild harvesting and supporting the fair trade federation.” From cleansers to sunscreens for your face and room and pillow sprays to help lull you to sleep, Leaf People utilizes the Julie’s 10 years of education and experience in herbal medicine.

Follow Leaf People Skin Care on Facebook.

Lily Farm Fresh Skin Care (Henderson, CO”>

Lily Farm Fresh was Colorado’s very first organic skin care company. The owner Lily not only bottles the organic skin care line but actually grows every herb and essential plant for her products on her organic farm in Colorado. The line carries cleansers, moisturizers, toners, masks, lip treatments, and even anti-aging skin care products. Organic skin care is big business, but Lily is in it to help maintain a sustainable healthy planet.’

Follow Lily People Skin Care on Facebook.

Mineral Fusion (Denver, CO”>

This Denver-based company first started out as a mineral cosmetics brand in 2007 but has grown and now also offers shampoos, conditioners, body lotions, body washes, and a full skin care line. They have four simple goals:

  • Bring their customers the revitalizing and protecting benefits of minerals like magnesium and copper.
  • Leave your skin in better condition than when they found it.
  • Creating a product that will contribute a level of social wellbeing
  • They are committed to sustainability and utilizing wind power, soy inks, and packaging from recycled materials.

Oh, and if you were wondering, they do have a shampoo and conditioner for curlies!

Follow Mineral Fusion on Facebook.

MyChelle Dermaceuticals (Louisville, CO”>

MyChelle Dermaceuticals started in 2000 and has been obsessed with creating the most effective, nontoxic skin care products ever since. “MyChelle’s progressive 360-degree approach to beauty is to provide clean, conscious and comprehensive skin care products that are bioactive, ethically sourced and formulated with high performance ingredients for superior results and a lifetime of natural, healthy skin.” They create skin care products along with makeup and their scientifically advanced formulas are based on clean, natural bioactives.

Follow MyChelle on Facebook and Instagram.

Tilvee Eco Ethical Skincare (Golden, CO”>

Kristie McNamara is the founder and president of Tilvee, and studied Botany and Organic Chemistry. Her passion about science and therapeutic uses of plants is what keeps her at the forefront of ingredient research to create healthier products for her customer’s bodies and the environment. She creates facial and body care products for adults, children, and babies.

Follow Tilvee on Facebook.

Do you buy local brands at your Whole Foods? 

How to Get Your DIY Product Sold by Whole Foods

Who doesn’t love Whole Foods? They have stellar products that succeed the highest quality standards and because of that you feel good about your purchases. It is a product maker’s dream to be a part of such an amazing company that thrives off diversity, helping local and small businesses, and has high name recognition. The bottom line: anybody can get a product in Wal-Mart or open an online store, but can those products pass the stringent requirements of Whole Foods is the real question.

The products at Whole Foods have met rigorous standards and that’s for every item you find in those beautifully constructed establishments. They evaluate all products sold and they currently have 50 common ingredients found in most body care products that are not in the products they sell. You are only going to find the finest, most wholesome products and if you feel your own product needs to be among that elite group then there are a few things you need to know.

What you need to do

You can easily go to the Whole Foods site and gather the information on how to submit your DIY creation for inclusion into one of the most coveted stores to date. One thing in your favor is each store’s consumer demographic varies amongst their different geographical regions. This allows your creation to be considered by the Whole Foods in your region. Each regional office has different review procedures with specific submission requirements, so check your local Whole Foods regional office for more information on the process prior to your admission.

Now, there are other eager product makers vying for a spot on those shelves. Competition is fierce for inclusion as many are just as passionate about being environmentally friendly and using organic products or using natural ingredients in their creations. So how can you stand out from the others? Here are a few tips that may help.

Have an amazing product

Ok, this goes without saying, but I add this good reason. Put actual thought and passion into your creation. You can have all the right ingredients, intentions, and packaging but if your product lacks originality then what’s the point? Do not study what is already on the shelves and duplicate it. Make sure your product has a distinctive uniqueness. Whole Foods does not have a lot of the same  products; each item brings something to the table, especially their body products.

Know what Whole Foods looks for in products

This may seem like a contradiction to the first tip but it really is not. Taking a look at the website for their quality standards and knowing what are acceptable and unacceptable ingredients is just you doing your due diligence as a product maker.   Those standards are not changing, as the goal of this retailer is to provide quality products that are safe for humans, animals and our world. Do not bother wasting your time or theirs by submitting products that contain one of the 50 common ingredients that are forbidden. If it is a pertinent ingredient to your product then Whole Foods may not be the retailer for you.

Do not undermine packaging

This does not mean your bars of soap have to be wrapped in gold foil. On the contrary, whatever is your niche make sure your packaging emits that appeal. Hand-written labels may be cute for starting out but this is a business and you must step up your game for inclusion into this arena. If you want to be taken seriously and sell your product in Whole Foods, then you have to use packaging that contains the same elements (e.g. nutritional labels, ingredients, UPC’s”> as similar products within your same category. Aside from those particulars, be unique and alluring with your packaging.

Be prepared

Yes, that means have an infrastructure set in place for invoices, shipping and handling, distribution, and even potential in-store demonstrations of your product. Whole Foods will be expecting things like product liability insurance, a product spec sheet, including photo dimensions, USDA organic certification (if claiming to have it”> among other basic business expectations for a seller. Be prepared and adapt quickly to what is expected of a full fledge business.

Build awareness

Creating a buzz around your product locally will go over well with the Whole Food buyers who do regularly browse at regional artisanal events. They also listen to their customers so if you are gaining popularity within your community and meet the standards for Whole Foods, you may be build awareness before pitching your product. There are no guarantees that Whole Foods will carry your brand, but if customers are wanting to see your products on those shelves, Whole Foods may be eager to find out just who you are and what has gotten people so excited about your creations.

So, who’s ready to take the plunge?

What’s the Difference Between DevaCurl and DevaCare?

Curly hair care lines are not all the same. There are real differences between various brands, which makes sense as we all have different coils, curls, and waves. There are brands that have several lines or collections for curls instead of one for straight hair and one for curly hair. One brand can have several collections just for the curly girls. The Curls brand has products for wavy textures, coily textures, and several variations in between. It even has a professional line, which we love as all curlies should be properly represented and cared for. With other brands it can be challenging to differentiate which lines to try.

Why brands have multiple curly collections

  • Formulated for hair porosity, type and/or width All curls are not the same so it stands to reason one hair care brand would have more than one line.  
  • Reformulations Companies often reformulate their products for numerous reasons: making improvements, catering to a new demographic, and making the product safer. Reformulations do not always mean the previous product was bad and sometimes the original formula might still be in production. 
  • Professional lines Some brands will have drugstore lines accompanied by professional lines. The professional lines are often inspired by hairstylists or for their use. They tend to be more expensive because they are formulated for the specific needs of the hairstylist.  

DevaCare vs. DevaCurl

One brand in particular would be DevaCurl. It prides itself on creating curly hair experts through products and hairstylists. DevaCurl’s mission is to teach women to create amazingly beautiful curls and love them. Curly hair is bold, natural, and beautiful and must be celebrated, according to DevaCurl. Recently I was made aware of a formula difference between the DevaCurl line and the DevaCare line so I had to investigate. DevaCare and DevaCurl are of the same company but separate collections. DevaCare has a white label and DevaCurl has a green label, but are their ingredient differences?

I contacted DevaCurl to see what its representatives had to say: “Our DevaCurl products work great on all hair types. Our DevaCare products are enhanced with vitamin C and orange peel extract for use on chemically processed or color treated hair. All of our products are sulfate, paraben, and silicone free and are botanically infused.”

The difference? DevaCare products are enhanced with vitamin C and orange peel extract for use on chemically processed or color treated hair.

Managing for color-treated curls requires special care. Our curls are delicate and need extra TLC when we apply chemicals and heat, whether it is for color or straightening. The two collections are similar in price point, but the DevaCare is formulated with more vitamins to aid in the use of chemicals and frequent heat usage.

Have you tried either collections? Can you notice a difference?

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10 Cruelty-Free Brands You Can Trust

Companies are trying to do less harm while still providing consumers the products and services they need and love. It can be done. Yes, creating those products you use daily can sometimes have a dark side. Cosmetic companies must work to ensure that their products and ingredients will work for their consumers and not harm the public, but how far must a company go?

What is cruelty-free?

According to the FDA, there is no official government definition attached to the term “cruelty-free” but rather an implication of what the term means:

  • None of the ingredients in the final product were tested on animals
  • The final product was not tested on an animal
  • The new and reformulated final products and/or its ingredients were not tested on animals, as company ethics can change

What qualifies as cruelty free is different to many people. Also, we live in a marketing driven world so even though these are implications and not regulated terms, there are some companies that may be misleading about being cruelty-free, especially since everyone has a different standard and understanding of its implications. That’s why some organizations like The Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics and PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals”> created standards for products to go through rigorous inspections and promise not to test on animals. Because identifying cruelty-free products can be challenging for the average consumer, we are making it easier for you to buy cruelty-free with this list of the top 10 cruelty-free brands that curlies love and trust!

AG Hair Cosmetics

They pride themselves on their meticulous selection of natural ingredients so it is absolutely no surprise they are cruelty-free. “None of our products are tested on animals, and in-fact, we are a PETA-approved company.” Actually, most of their products are considered vegan friendly and all AG products are completely gluten-free.

Read more: Should Your Hair Go Gluten Free?

Alba Botancia

With a mission to do beautiful and offer natural 100% vegetarian personal care products, it is no wonder they are all about caring for animals. At Alba Bontanica, “Our products contain no meat or by-products of animal killing. We also reject all cruelly obtained animal ingredients, even if an animal is not killed. We limit our use of animal products to ingredients that are naturally created by and have no future use to the animal such as beeswax.” You cannot be mad about that!

Aubrey Organics

No sulfates, parabens, phthaltes, artificial colors or fragrances, AO takes our environment, people, and animals seriously. “All Aubrey® products carry the “leaping bunny” logo, the internationally recognized symbol for “cruelty-free” cosmetics. For more than 40 years, Aubrey Organics has been a vocal opponent of animal testing. We have never tested on animals, and we never will.” You will be happy to know they also have a number of products certified by the USDA National Organic Program and carry the USDA Organics seal.

DermOrganic

DermOrganic’s signature hair and skin care treatments were created to give naturally derived ingredients to consumers who understand the importance of simplicity and natural living. “Vegan, no animal testing, no artificial preservatives, sulfate-free & gluten-free.” This is simplicity at its best.

Burt’s Bees

Burt’s Bees are concerned about the environment. “Burt’s Bees does not test its products on animals nor do we ask others to do so on our behalf. You’ll see the leaping bunny seal on our packaging to reinforce our commitment. Please know we are absolutely committed to our no animal testing policy.”

Jason Natural Cosmetics

Created in California in 1959, Jason natural cosmetics is serious about using wholesome ingredients without harming our environment to do so. This brand has strong a solid dedication to the JĀSÖN Code of Honor:

  • select safe, gentle, and effective ingredients
  • rigorously test every formula to ensure safety and efficacy
  • never test on animals
  • constantly innovate and improve

Jessicurls

Jessicurls is a well-known and loved curly hair care line that started with a frustrated curly that was determined to love and nurture her curls without harming animals in the process. With a passion of using natural ingredients, Jessicurls is serious about their hair care line helping curlies of all types and textures. This line is a “curl enhancing, moisturizing products for all types of curly hair. 100% vegan and cruelty-free.”

Mixed Chicks

Two women filled a need for multi-cultural people who needed products for their coily, curly, wavy hair.  They did so without harming animals. “Did you know Mixed Chicks is a vegan and cruelty free hair care line? That’s right! Our products do not contain any animal by-products and are not tested on animals.”

Queen Helene

Most people want more than a product that works and Queen Helene understands. They want to preserve the world we live in and do their part by being globally responsible from the packaging to the products. “In our efforts to bring you highly-effective products, we never test on animals and have been certified by the Coalition of Consumer Information on Cosmetics (CCIC”>.”

Uncle Funky’s Daughter

Green is the new black and Uncle Funky’s Daughter is concerned about quality products that do not harm our world. “All Uncle Funky’s Daughter products are only tested on people. The Uncle Funky’s Daughter Corporation is a proud member of PETA and is thoroughly committed to the eradication of animal testing.” It’s just that simple.

What are your favorite cruelty-free brands?





Need a New DIY Cleanser? Try This Powder.

To first understand the beautiful benefits of moringa oil, you must learn about where it comes. Only then will you begin to see why it is sometimes called the “miracle tree” or “tree of life”. It is a very valuable food crop as it is drought resistant, grows very fast, and highly nutritive. The Moringa oleifera tree is the most common species of the genus moringa in the flowering plant family moringaceae. It is native to India and countries in the Himalayan region and is a fast growing, deciduous tree.  

It is mostly revered because of its nutritious antioxidants, which are potent but it also has anti-inflammatory effects too. It is an all-around giver of goodness with vitamins A, B, C, D, E, and minerals including potassium, calcium, iron, selenium, and magnesium.  The leaves are small, thick, and the bulk of its nutritional value is found in the younger leaves. The older the leaves the less nutrition, which is why harvesting is done early when moringa leaves are still saplings. The leaves are then dried and chopped into a deep green powder which can be encapsulated, bagged as a loose powder, or the leaves can kept intact and used as a tea.

Mysteries of moringa oil

This is a famous tree and oil that the skin and beauty care industry loves to incorporate into their creations. The natural goodness of moringa oil dates back thousands of years ago as the Romans recognized the natural properties and used it extensively in perfumes and the Egyptians prized the oil so much it was placed in vases in their tombs.  They also appreciated its natural protective properties and used it on their skin to protect themselves from the harsh desert conditions. The oil is extracted from mature moringa seeds and can be used in cooking; hair, and skin care products. A favorite for its long shelf life, you can keep it at room temperatures for a long time without worry of going rancid.

Properties of moringa oil

This powerful oil is known to have anti-aging, antibacterial, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, aids in acne and dark spot prevention, and beneficial in the treatment of edema. The oil is known to give skin a natural glow and it is a great oil for cooking too.

Read more: What You Need to Know About Antibacterial, Antioxidants, Antifungal, and Anti-Inflammatory Oils.

Moringa oil for hair

This fresh smelling oil has been known as a natural hair cleanser for ages. It is useful in lifting dirt out of the hair and is an efficient natural cleanser. It not only cleans the scalp but will help in alleviate scalp irritations like dandruff. A quick fix for all hair problems can be whisked away with a few drops of moringa oil blended with coconut oil. Just massage your hair and scalp and you can assist in: 

  • Cleansing your hair
  • Nourishing the scalp
  • Treating dandruff
  • Adding a natural shine to tresses

We are not done yet with what this amazing oil can do. This oil is famous for scalp massages and perfect for those suffering from dry, irritated, or inflamed scalps. With regular use it is believed to strengthen the hair and the scalp massages allows the oil to penetrate deep and the vitamins and minerals are quickly absorbed giving your hair and scalp a much need nourishment treatment. It even helps with sunburns with its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties that will soothe your body and your scalp!

Add to your shampoo or cleansing conditioner to add extra nourishing cleansing, your conditioner for extra moisturizing and to your leave-in for extra shine. Don’t forget it makes for a great hot oil treatment too. This oil is great for just about everything for your hair and scalp as well as your entire body.

Product recommendations

Have you tried the wonderful moringa oil?

This Oil May Smell, but It’s GREAT for Your Dandruff

The neem tree or Azadirachta indica is an evergreen that has been used therapeutically for thousands of years for its medicinal properties. Native to South Asia, every inch of this tree is used for medicinal purposes. The fruit, leaves, seeds, gum, oil, and bark all contain very similar therapeutic components in varying amounts. This tree is an antiseptic, antiviral, anti-pyretic, anti-inflammatory, anti-ulcer, and anti-fungal. 

“All parts of neem tree are commonly used in traditional Indian medicine for household remedy against various human diseases,” according to PubMed. Nothing can become a waste when using this tree. From treating sexually transmitted diseases to treating acne, the neem tree seems to beat out all others for aiding humankind medicinally. It is the beneficial component of Azadirachtin compound that gives neem all its medicinal greatness along with the ability to repel insects such as mosquitoes, ticks, fleas, and ants. There is a direct link between the neem tree and ancient medicines and is an amazing oil that is vital ingredient in Ayurveda.

What’s the 411 on Neem oil?

Yes, every facet of the neem tree is essential and remarkable for medicinal purposes but what is so great about the oil?  First off, the oil is derived from crushing the seeds through a cold pressing processing as heat may distort or diminish the potency of the therapeutic properties in the oil. The pungent odor has not stopped this oil from becoming more popular in Western medicine and the beauty industry. For one reason, the pros far outweigh the cons on this oil. 
  • Supports your immune system
  • Heals and supports skin
  • Can be used as a toothpaste or mouthwash
  • Insect repellent
  • Digestive issue solver
  • Benefits skin, scalp, and hair

Neem oil and hair

Those nutrients do our bodies good and that also goes for our tresses. It fights fungal infections including ringworms, which many children experience on the scalp. By using this oil regularly, you will notice a healthier scalp and hair strands. Great for scalp massages but since it is an offensive odor that is strong as well as pungent, you may want to use overnight then wash in the morning to rid the smell. Diluting it with another sweet smelling carrier oil may also aid in dissipating the offensive smell.

Neem oil is a great reliever of dandruff, psoriasis, and dry scalp ailments. It actually improves the scalp’s health and maintains the scalp’s pH level, which is why we often see it added to shampoos. It can be used to remove head lice without the use of harsh chemicals that other head lice remedies contain. Simply add neem oil to hair and leave in overnight. Comb out with a nit comb the following morning to remove lice. With all the precious fatty acids your strands will get a masterful conditioning from the linoleic, oleic, and stearic acids that will nourish and condition your tresses and scalp. Restore dry, under-nourished hair back to a smoother texture.

Read more: Oleic & Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much

Products with neem oil

Do you use neem oil?

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7 Things You Should Never Say to a Transitioner

More often than not people do not think before they speak. Most mean well and are not being malicious, but taking a fraction of a second longer to think before speaking may have made them realize what they were about to say was a tad rude. That can go for anything in life really, but with the natural hair movement explosion over the last few years, more women who are deciding to ditch the chemicals of straighteners and perms are getting some rather unflattering remarks thrown their way. Women who are going natural have the choice to big chop or long-term transition to save their length. It is a personal choice, and although women who BC get some serious flack for their choice, the transitioners are right there tacking some ridiculous comments and questions as well. 

Family, friends, significant others, co-workers, and even strangers on the street are making some ugly remarks to women who are choosing another path for their own tresses. The saddest part is some of these remarks are coming from the mouths of naturals themselves! For whatever reason they feel they offer sound advice or can police, but it really needs to stop. So, if you have fallen into this category of offering these types of comments below, please take heed that they are never welcome.

“When is it going to start curling?”

There are curls, kinks, and coils along with a huge variation in each group. There are different textures, so what you may see as a lack of curl may either be the relaxed ends or just the way her hair is in its natural state. It takes time for the hair to find its own way so please stop pressuring her to force her hair to do something it is not either ready to do or capable of doing.

“Why don’t you just wear it straight?”

This is a passive aggressive way of saying someone’s hair does not look good. Everyone does not want to go that route. Take it as a hint that she is choosing to rock her transitioned tresses just as she has planned and does not need the ridicule. Not everyone wants or likes straight hair and many transitioners have found that using rollers, flexi rods, Curlformers, and the like allow her hair to have a more uniform look.

“Can you get a comb through that stuff/mess?”

Yes, I have heard this before and it cuts like a knife. It is rude, ugly, and uncalled for. Mind your business and keep it moving. Many transitioners use wide tooth combs or finger comb their tresses. Many naturals have put combs away altogether, so do not expect her to use the same tools or techniques she did with relaxed hair.

“Your hair looks like a bird’s nest/Brillo pad/a hot mess!”

Do I really need to explain why this is a highly inappropriate comment to make? No. Please do not try and play it off as a joke because it is hurtful and never funny.

“Aren’t you afraid of not looking professional”?

To say someone’s hair, their natural texture is unprofessional is offensive and buys into the notion of only one standard of beauty.

“Your hair looked better/prettier when it was relaxed/straight.”

I had a boss that would say my hair looked really good and more professional when I straightened it and I was so angry by the third time she said it that I ran to the bathroom and rewet my whole head. No one likes this unsolicited opinion obviously stating her present look is not up to par. Just like I mentioned above, transitioners have more choices with curlier styles for the two textures to blend better so keep your opinion to yourself unless otherwise asked. 

“When are you going back to a relaxer/creamy crack”?

If a transitioner decides to either keep on track for a short-term or long-term transition or go back to the relaxer, it will be of her own volition. This journey is time-consuming and there are doubts that can creep up as a woman goes natural. She really does not need someone asking is she ready to fail. Now, it is not a fail if you choose to go back to relaxers but asking when they plan on going back implies what they are doing is not working or a waste of time.

Has anyone said these to you? What other things should someone never say to a transitioner?

Why You Should Use Rapeseed Oil for Your Scalp

rapeseed oil

Rapeseed oil is not only a real thing but also a beneficial oil more recently known as canola oil (in Canada and the United States”> but that is just an edible rapeseed oil that was bred in Canada in the 1970s. The plant known as rape comes from the Latin word for “turnip” and is the third most important crop grown in the UK after wheat and barley. Rapeseed oil comes from the black seeds of the rapeseed plant, Brassica napus, which is part of the Brassica family just like broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower.  

Rapeseed plant produces sunny, dandelion-yellow flowers around springtime. Rapeseed or canola seeds are harvested and then crushed to receive the oil from the seeds. This oil is always refined, has a light texture, pale golden color and a neutral taste. The canola meal after extraction is high in protein and usually used for animal feed. When purchasing canola oil search for expeller pressed, which means the oil was mechanically pressed without chemical solvents and although pricier, will guarantee that there are no solvents remaining in the oil.

Is rapeseed oil toxic?

The oil used to be so toxic that the FDA banned it for human consumption in 1956, but through selective breeding programs in German universities, the bitter-tasting oil was reduced to a level that was safe for human consumption in winter rapeseed. Later in Canada, summer rapeseed was found with low levels of erucic acid (a monosaturated omega-9 fatty acid that can be toxic in large amounts”>. When Canadian growers bred the new variety of rapeseed with a lower content of erucic acid in the 19070’s they also decided it needed a new name. They called it “canola” which is coined from “Canadian oil, low acid” so consumers knew it was safe to consume.

Makeup of rapeseed / canola oil

via Oilypedia 

  • 61% of monounsaturated oleic acid (omega-9 fatty acid”>
  • 21% of polyunsaturated linoleic acid (omega-6 essential fatty acid”>
  • 11% of alpha-Linolenic acid (omega-3 essential fatty acid”>
  • 7% of saturated fatty acids
  • 4% of palmitic acids
  • 2 % of stearic acid
Read more: Oleic or Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much

What are the benefits of rapeseed oil?

Without fats and oils our bodies would not function properly so proper balance is necessary. We all know there are good and bad fats with saturated fats being worse and unsaturated fats being better. Rapeseed oil is a healthy choice oil, as it has a favorable balance of good and bad fats.

  • Least fats than any other cooking fats and oils
  • High in healthy mono and polyunsaturated fats (omega 3, 6 & 9″>
  • Rich in vitamin E
  • Contains plant sterols

Is rapeseed a good oil for hair?

Rapeseed is perfect choice for dry hair. The unsaturated fatty acids possess strong moisturizing properties, which seem to coat the hair better than other oils. It is light and penetrates the scalp and shaft. With its excellent ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fats it is considered to possess anti-inflammatory effects, which help to soothe an irritated scalp. This oil is great for hot oil treatments and scalp massages to aid with dryness and to add sheen to dull tresses.

With its highest concentration of fatty acids being oleic and linoleic acid it is no wonder it does our hair some serious good! Oleic acid controls water loss in hair strands while making hair softer and more pliable whereas linoleic acid stimulates hair growth along with maintaining a healthy scalp. Oh and yes, it also controls water loss in your hair strands.

Mayo Hair Mask

  • Canola oil
  • Mayonnaise
  • Favorite essential oil

Mix equal parts canola oil and mayo thoroughly. Add a few drops of your favorite essential oil for aroma and apply to hair before covering with a shower cap. Leave on for two hours. (No extra heat needed”>. Wash hair and style as usual.

Rapeseed Hair Mask

  • Rapeseed oil
  • Olive oil
  • Castor oil
  • Ampoules of vitamin A
  • Ampoules of vitamin E

*An ampoule is a supercharged serum with higher concentrations of active ingredients.

Equal parts of each oil should be used but how much will be determined by the thickness and length of your hair. Mix in a small bowl. Apply to hair and cover with shower cap overnight. Rinse and cleanse hair as usual.

Do you have rapeseed in your DIY arsenal?

Try this Essential Oil for an Oily Scalp

lemongrass for oily hair

Essential oils are amazing natural liquids usually distilled from bark, flowers, leaves, roots, and stems of plants. They seem to bring nothing but goodness to our lives including our bodies and hair. One hugely beneficial oil is lemongrass oil despite its lack of popularity in comparison to more popular oils like lavender, peppermint, or clary sage

What is lemongrass oil?

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratusis“> is a grassy perennial native to tropical and sub-tropical environments like India and Sri Lanka. It is commercially cultivated in Southeast Asian countries and even in the United States in California and Florida. It has tall striped leaves, jagged edges, and a distinct citrus scent that some consider pungent. Quite popular in East Indian and West Indian dishes, lemongrass is much more than a garden plant. Using it for cooking has become popular in the Caribbean and in the United States for its aromatic citrus flavor. Lemongrass oil is extracted through the steam distillation of dried lemongrass.

Health benefits of lemongrass oil

Like most essential oils, lemongrass oil is full of therapeutic properties that make it potent and purposeful to our bodies. The main chemical components of lemongrass oil are myrcene, citronellal, geranyl acetate, nerol, geraniol, neral, and traces of limonene and citral. It is considered useful as an antiseptic, an antioxidant, an astringent, and as a natural deodorant while having antimicrobial, antibacterial, insecticidal, and fungicidal properties. It is most commonly used in cleaning and aromatherapy as support for the immune, joints, and muscular systems. It is a great source of vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B5 B6, C and folate.

Hair benefits

With all the positive attributes mentioned above there is no wonder how this essential oil can easily aid in hair health. With its antimicrobial and antiseptic properties, many use it for scalp conditions, namely scalp inflammation. Some aromatherapists believe that lemongrass oil can actually strengthen the hair follicles. It is known to fight hair loss and when combined with rosemary and lavender it is a great hair treatment. It is also known for people struggling with oily hair and a popular ingredient in shampoos to combat too much oil and even to add shine. It also plays well with other oils as it blends well with basil, bergamot, black pepper, cedarwood, clary sage, coriander, cypress, fennel, ginger, lavender, rosemary, and tea tree just to name a few.

Here are some popular hair products that use the positive attributes of lemongrass oil to aid your tresses:

Lemongrass oil hair treatment

  • 3 drops of lemongrass
  • 3 Tbsp. of olive oil or favorite carrier oil

Mix the oils before applying to your scalp and let sit for 15 min. under a shower cap or a hot towel. Wash and style as usual.

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Grow 1 Inch a Week? The Science Behind the Inversion Method

inversion method for growing hair

If you are puzzled by the title of this article then you must have missed all the hoopla surrounding this quick means to gain around an inch of hair growth in a week. Who does not want to grow their hair faster? I know many women do and a quick Google search will tell you that this is nothing new. You can find thousands, possibly even millions of articles about hair growth and hair loss

How does hair grow?

Hair grows from the root at the bottom of the hair follicle and blood from the blood vessels in your scalp feed the root. This creates more cells and makes the hair grow. The hair is then pushed up through the skin as it grows through the sebaceous glands that add sebum to the hair to keep it soft, but too much can make the hair greasy. The hair dies by the time it protrudes from the skin so believe it or not hair is dead. Hair grows fast and the only part of the body that grows faster is bone marrow. On average, most people grow about a quarter to a half-inch a month or up to six inches a year. 

What is the Inversion Method?

This is a new trend that claims to increase hair growth. The method is carried out over a period of seven days. You give yourself a scalp massage nightly with an oil and invert (tip upside down”> yourself or just your head. Some choose to lean their head over the side of a bed, stand upside down, sit in a chair and lean over, or another variation of inversion for up to four minutes. Be careful as you can become dizzy, light-headed, or disoriented when trying this. This method claims to increase the blood flow to your scalp and stimulate the hair follicles, which will result in quicker growth, but does this work?

The Science behind the inversion method

This is what trichologist Dr. Kari Williams has to say about the inversion method:

“Everyone is on the hunt for the newest ‘trick’ to grow hair, when the best ‘trick’ is found in the simplicity of maintaining a healthy lifestyle through regular exercise and a nutrient-rich diet. Healthy hair is a reflection of a healthy body. Increased blood circulation to the scalp can simply be achieved through scalp massages using deep rotary movements. These movements manipulate the tissues in the scalp, which stimulate blood flow, improve cellular functions and cellular regeneration. So you can stand on your head if you want to, but it’s not necessary. You can simply massage your scalp and get the same benefits without the possible risks.”

Verdict on the Inversion Method

Scalp massages are great for increasing blood flow to the hair follicles, conditioning the scalp, strengthening the roots, and even reducing stress according to Pacific College of Oriental Medicine. Many do it nightly with great results so that alone is a winner in my book but coupling it with the inversion method has not been scientifically proven on humans for quicker hair growth. If you are physically fit, not pregnant, or do not have high blood pressure then you may want to give it a try, but as for me I will stick with the scalp massages. Here’s one of my favorites massage oil mixes.

My Nightly Stress Reliever

  • 1 tbsp. of jojoba oil
  • Few drops of lavender oil
  • Extra-small ramekin 

Mix oils in extra-small ramekin before massaging throughout the scalp gently and in a circular motion.

Have you tried the inversion method?

3 Ways to Add Volume (That You Haven’t Tried Yet)

Say what you want but the 80’s were awesome. They had the big hair. I love big hair and so do thousands of other women. Volume or “big hair” is loved by most women, and believe it or not but having curly hair does not guarantee volume. Not all heads are the same and many curlies with fine, low density hair and are seeking volume. I know I do. The bigger the better. I want hair so big it hits the door frame when I walk in a room.  

Now, not everybody wants the big, crazy, oh my goodness big hair like I do but many do want more volume for various reasons. Some want volume to lessen the appearance of thin hair, others just like fullness, and then there are others that want a voluminous style for a new look. Many think that women with curly hair naturally have no problems with volume but that simply is not true. Density and width are factors in whether your hair will have full volume.

Whatever your reason, volume can be achieved with the right tips and even hair products. Most of us know the hair hacks for volume like:

  • Drying hair upside-down
  • Get a layered cut
  • Scrunch your hair
  • Pick your roots with a pick
  • Add extensions

Read more: How to Get Big Sexy Hair Without the Frizz 

Now, those are not the only ways to add volume and if those are not working or you are in need of additional support, trying volumizing hair products may be the solution. All the tips above will not do much good if you are using products that weigh down your tresses, making your hair look flat or thin. Here are some product types to try for adding all the volume you desire.

Use dry shampoo… on first day hair

Dry shampoos are making a big comeback and mostly because they are great second and even third-day hair for curlies. Many curlies are realizing that over-washing your tresses are too harsh for your strands and they are perfect for adding volume to your hair. Garnier says, “The dry shampoo, contains a blend of orange citrus and grape extract, immediately refreshes and bodifies lifeless locks, instantly creating volume you can see and feel.” Most of us appreciate how our hair tends to get bigger throughout the week, but as soon as we wash it we lose the fullness. Dry shampoos will clean your scalp and hair without the use of water and disturbing the volume of your second or third-day hair.

Thicken while you condition

Ever thought about conditioning and adding volume at the same time? L’Oréal EverStrong Thickening Conditioner gives your hair extra strength along with volume as “The EverStrong Sulfate-Free Fortify System contains L’Oreal’s patented Amino Acid Complex, which helps weak, thinning hair to look thicker while caring for the scalp.”

Use double duty stylers

Stylers are the products we use to give our hair the hold, style, and look we desire. They come in the form of creams, serums, gels, and even mousse so you have a variety to choose from. Try choosing a styler with a thickening formula as there is real science behind the ingredients and thickening effects in products like Living Proof Full Thickening Cream. According to Living Proof, “PBAE (or Boly[beta]-amino esters”> creates a micropattern of thickening dots on every hair strand, making hair look and behave like textured, full, thick hair.”

Oscar Blandi Hair Lift Instant Thickening & Strengthening Serum uses the power of sodium hyaluronate (thickener”>, which “attracts to the hair shaft & plumps by providing deep penetrating moisturization (and”> Rice Starch Powder absorbs excess oils in the hair to naturally plump the hair shaft”. These are the special ingredients that actually thicken your hair.

Alterna Bamboo Volume Plumping Strand Expand has the power of phyto-nutrient rich organic maca root in lightweight lotion that instantly plumps every strand…Organic Maca Root Invigorates & energizes hair from the inside out helping to improve volume on three dimensions: fullness, thickness & lift.”

Do you have a favorite hair thickener?

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