Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 17, 2014

As we crank up the heat the air becomes dryer and can rapidly rob our skin and hair of its moisture.

Hair Butters

Hair butters are natural vegetable butters that are extracted from plants, roots, seeds, and trees. They remain solid at room temperatures and consist of solid or semi-solid fat oils. They are superior emollients and softeners for your hair and skin and every butter has unique properties that make it vastly beneficial to the user. Many have anti-inflammatory, soothing, or moisturizing properties that give more than just shine and softness to your tresses.

Some butters are heavier than others and can negatively affect your hair. Knowing your hair’s porosity will help you determine which butter is best for your strands this winter. Low porosity or even fine-haired coilies, wavies, and curlies need to steer clear of the heavier butters because the butter will just create weighty buildup and prevent moisture from penetrating the tight hair cuticle. High porosity hair needs the extra oomph to keep that moisture from escaping once it enters the hair shaft. A lighter butter may be too light to take on that task during winter.

Best Butters for Winter

Shea butter

A favorite among curlies and coilies this heavy butter comes from the fat of the nuts of the African Karite Tree. A rich source of moisture, vitamins, and fat, this butter is thick and perfect for high porosity or thick hair. It can be used on the hair and scalp, is a potent emollient and does provide some skin and hair sun protection.

Shea butter is firm much easier to use if mixed with a carrier oil (e.g. coconut oil”> that will keep it from hardening. Once whipped with a carrier oil, Shea butter becomes a fluffy, ultra-moisturizing natural asset.

This is probably too thick for fine haired or low porosity curlies or coilies.

Cupuacu butter

A much lighter butter than shea butter, this butter is similar to cocoa butter, but has a softer and creamier consistency. Cupuacu butter is from the rain forest and rich in phytosterols that benefit dry, damaged skin and hair.  Fatty acids help to moisturize with its power to attract moisture making it a superior hydrator and it can protect skin and hair from UV-rays. Ingredients to Die For says that cupuacu butter is a great butter to try this winter especially if you have low porosity hair.

Hemp Seed Butter

This is a great butter for all hair types and is heavier than cupuacu butter but lighter than shea butter. This non-greasy butter comes from the cannabis plant and is drug-free and non-hallucinogenic in its industrial state. Livestrong says hemp seed butter is a natural sunblock and high in protein, which will improve the feel and appearance of your hair.

There are loads of butters that will give your hair what it needs in the colder months. Finding the right one may take time and research, but as the wind gets chillier and the nights longer, remember that your tresses need to be protected as much as your skin.

Do you have a favorite natural butter you use during winter?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 16, 2014

All curly girls love to shine. We are used to being the center of attention from our hair. When you think glam you think shine, but often our hair is not as shiny as we would like. Straight hair reflects light so you see the shine, whereas the bends of curly, coily, and wavy hair only refract light. This can give our tresses a more dull appearance. Is it fair? No ma’am but you can still get your shine on but in other ways.  

Cold water rinsing

Rinsing with cold water after washing helps to close your hair’s cuticle, seal it, and give a natural sheen or slight shine.

Apple cider vinegar (ACV”>

Many naturals already know the wonders of ACV on their strands for several benefits. The most popular reason is that it removes product buildup, but how many are aware that it also leaves the hair cuticle soft and smooth? With that smoothness comes a natural shine from the closed cuticle that allows the hair to reflect some light.

Air-drying

Air-drying your hair instead of using a hooded dryer or diffuser allows the hair to dry naturally. If none of those sounds like the route you feel like taking to add some much needed shine and glam, then take a look at another way to get it without too much work on your part.

Hair serums

Hair serums are often silicone-based products that coat the surface of the hair without penetrating the hair’s cuticle like some natural oils. They add shine and softness to the hair. Many protect the hair from the sun and they remain on the hair until you wash them out. It is best to add them on clean hair to keep them from creating buildup. The serum even reflects light and makes your tresses look shinier and healthier while protecting them from dust and even humidity.

Style Craze says that hair serums are not just for shine as many curly girls (and even straight haired ones too”> use them to stave off dry and damaged strands. They can also help against heat applications and even chemical reactions that can occur with some styling products and gadgets. Here are some tips to remember when using hair serums:

• Buy a brand that works, not just the one that is the cheapest. You truly get what you pay for.
• Apply to your strands (not your scalp”> and work through with your fingers or a wide tooth comb.
• Using too much can create buildup or weigh your curls, waves, or coils down. Use sparingly and add more only if you see you need it. 

Not all hair serums have silicone and not all curly girls are happy to use them, regardless of the silky benefits they bring. Here are a few brands that most curly girls find are the best and get the job done all without the burden of silicones. 

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Oyin Handmade Shine and Define Styling Serum

You will not lose moisture with this serum that has water, flax seeds, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, sea vegetable complex, coconut oil and castor seed oil that delivers shine and softness. This serum is designed to nourish, add shine, and define all with a light and non-greasy feel. Smooth out your edges and reduce your frizz with a light fruit scent.

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Carol’s Daughter Monoi Oil Sacred Strengthening Serum

Olive fruit oil and grape seed oil make up the first five ingredients in a serum that boasts of reversing and preventing damage to even the most distressed tresses. Heat styling, color treating, and chemical straightening take a damaging toll on your strands, so this serum rebuilds that damaged hair from the inside out.

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DevaCurl MirrorCurls

PEG-10 sunflower glycerides, water, silica, sunflower seed extract, balm mint extract, and hops extract help to deliver shine and softness to a serum that made the Best of the Best in 2013. All textures will benefit from this 99% botanically infused, silicone-free moisture adding serum.

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Living Proof Style | lab satin hair serum

Get superior shine with this satin smooth serum. Cut your styling time with this alcohol-free and silicone-free styler that will add shine, movement, and softness to your tresses.

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SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Finishing Elixir

A penetrating blend of shea butter, argan oil, carrot oil, and macadamia nut oil that fights frizz and adds shine to dry, damaged tresses. Lightweight and not greasy, this elixir uses mineral-rich sea kelp to nourish and smooth your hair’s cuticle all without the help of silicones.

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Mixed Chicks Straightening Serum

Water, glycerin, propylene glycol (humectant”>, and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (adds conditioning properties”> create this superior thermal protectant for heat styling. The humidity resistant formula cuts your drying time in half and you finish with gain a sleeker, straighter look longer.

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EDEN BodyWorks Coconut Shea All Natural Styling Elixir

A moisturizing conditioning serum that prevents frizz with the water, coconut oil, aloe vera leaf juice, sorbitol, and PEG-50 shea butter. Leave frizz behind while you gain softer, sleeker, and shinier tresses.

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Bee Mine Hair Growth Serum Strawberry Kiwi

This hair growth serum is potent due to its ingredients. This all-natural powerhouse with 100% organic coconut oil, sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, select Ayurvedic herbs, and sulfur powder helps to grow hair and moisturizes your tired tresses.

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CURLS Champagne & Caviar Curl Elixir

Soybean oil, virgin coconut oil, champagne extract, and caviar extract make up a luxury-enriched elixir that boasts of enhancing hair growth and hair strengthening. Bring dull, dry hair back to life with the power and richness of caviar and champagne.

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L’Oreal EverSleek Super Sleek Intense Serum

Water, glycerin, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil will make your strands say goodbye to frizz. A smoothing serum without the weight of silicones, this intense product helps control even the most rebellious and unruly hair.

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By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 15, 2014

It was not fun so the thought of wearing intricate or tension-filled hairstyles is met with a resounding no. The problem is what if you want a low manipulated style that lasts for more than one day and does not require extensions? Being tender headed is not particularly associated with any specific hair type, so anyone can try these styles.

Puff

The puff can be perfect style for tender-headed women. For one, this is one of the easiest styles, and if done correctly on washday it can last all week. The key to this becoming a low manipulated style is your ability to not do touch-ups daily. Most buns need a ponytail holder and there is much to say about the popularity of the messy bun. There is no need for your bun to be tight because proper nighttime routines will ensure it lasts.

Buns are sweet, sassy, and sexy, so most of the work needed would be slicking down edges (if you feel the need”> or putting hair into the ponytail and then the bun.

NaturallyGG shares three high and gorgeous buns that can last all week if properly maintained at night. Remember that any sized bun can be glam. The first one may be too much for my tender-headed lovelies, as she wraps her ponytail holder on her ponytail twice, but the second and third looks are probably gentler.

Roller Sets

Roller sets and women go hand in hand. This is one style that crosses over from relaxed to natural with ease because the style looks amazing on both! Roller sets last longer than many other styles and do not require heat, so do not sleep on this time-honored treasure that most tender-headed women have no problems with. Roller sets are so versatile, as you can use perm rods, magnetic rollers, Curlformers of any size or type of roller to achieve a great roller set with longevity. The setting lotion and how well you place them on the rollers seem to be the most important factors in a successful roller set.

Toni from My Natural Sistas shows her superb roller set on perm rods. Her look is flawless it can last a week with the proper nighttime routine.

Wash & Go

If you have not mastered the wash and go, then I suggest you give it a try. If you can achieve second, third, or even longer days on your wash and go, then this is a great low manipulated style for the tender-headed lovelies. There is no twisting, braiding, or fuss with this style that allows you to rock your unique coils, curls, or waves with ease.

Christine Amor shows us how she creates her wash and go, and we see that most of the work is done on washday. She shares a few different ways to work your wash and go with elongation or a ninja bun! No twisting, braiding, or added tension to your poor tresses or scalp.

So, what are your favorite low manipulated styles for my tender-headed lovelies?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 11, 2014

What is keratin?

Keratin is an essential component to hair, as 90% of your hair is made up of keratin protein. It is a protein formed by the combination of 18 amino acids. Although hair also contains water, lipids, traces of mineral elements, and melanin, Hair-Science says keratin is its main component. Keratin is the key structural building block of hair, skin, and nails, so it can be strong, delicate, and vulnerable to damage. This explains why many protein hair care products have hydrolyzed keratin protein in them.

Products use the keratin protein to fill the gaps in the hair shaft to give your hair a strengthening boost.

As discussed in our Why Eggs and Mayonnaise Don’t Work article, “proteins must be hydrolyzed or broken down so that the amino acids will be small enough to fit and bond to the hair shaft in order to provide the hair with strength as a temporary repair.” Hydrolysis is necessary to break the proteins down and make them small enough to fill the cracks in your hair shaft from all the damage our hair incurs as a result of sun exposure, styling, chemical treatments, and heat styling. The broken down keratin in hair products will temporarily replace the chipped away keratin in our hair’s cortex. This is only a temporary fix, but it is still a necessary component in keeping our hair healthy. There are products and services that use keratin and not all of them are bad. I am here to show the various ways keratin is being supplied to the public so you can make an informed decision on using it yourself.

Keratin in protein treatments

Keratin protein is the strongest protein found in hair care products, so it makes sense to use these proteins to strengthen your hair. Not only can your hair grow stronger, but hydrolyzed keratin protein is moisture binding so you can increase your moisture retention to reduce breakage and bring luster to your curls, coils, and waves. Many of the popular products that naturals know and love contain this amazing protein, such as ApHogee Intensive Two Minute Keratin Reconstructor, Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask, and AG Hair Cosmetics Re:coil. These products use the keratin protein to fill the gaps in the hair shaft to give your hair a strengthening boost. Everyone can benefit from a protein treatment, but people with color-treated hair and high porosity hair can benefit the most.

Keratin in smoothing treatments

Keratin has been getting the majority of its bad press from its usage in straightening systems that make curly, coily, and wavy hair super sleek and straight or eliminate frizz. The major concern lies in the use of formaldehyde in some of these straightening systems. One such treatment that has been under fire from the Food and Drug Administration and Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA”> is the Brazilian Blowout. OSHA discovered that “some hair smoothing products may contain formaldehyde, may release formaldehyde at levels above OSHA’s permissible limits during use, and may be mislabeled, all of which can pose health risks to salon workers.” For many, the use of formaldehyde in these systems has overridden many of the benefits the procedure.

With all of the negative press surrounding keratin treatments, many companies have since responded by altering their formulas or creating entirely new treatments to exclude the use of formaldehyde. It is important to note that not every keratin system or straightening system contains formaldehyde or an ingredient akin to it or a derivative of it. If you are considering a keratin treatment, be sure to research the specific treatment before going to the salon.

How keratin straightening treatments work

The stylist applies a keratin hair-straightening product to your hair and uses heat from the flat iron to seal it in. The entire process takes about 90 min or more, depending on your hair’s length and density. Popular treatments include Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy by Coppola and Global Keratin Complex, and there are at-home kits on the market as well. One popular at-home treatment is the SheaMoisture Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair Hair Straightening System. Every product in the Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair Hair Straightening System has hydrolyzed keratin protein to add strength before you apply direct heat to your hair. This allows your curls, coils, and waves to return undamaged, vibrant, and bouncy, within reason. Remember, heat damage can still occur with temperatures at high heats. The keratin does not straighten the hair, it is meant to strengthen and seal the hair after heat from a blow-dryer or flat iron is applied.

Not every keratin system or straightening system contains formaldehyde or an ingredient akin to it or a derivative of it.

Beyond formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is not the only reason keratin treatments have developed a negative connotation. An overuse of chemicals can create problems if not used sparingly, especially in conjunction with high temperatures of hot tools. “The other negative aspect to these treatments is the temperature at which you must heat the hair to accomplish the goal,” explains celebrity hairstylist David Babaii. Harper’s Bazaar says that “subjecting a fine or heavily highlighted head of hair to a 450 degree flat iron, too, may not leave your hair feeling as wonderful as these treatments tend to claim.”

The application of chemicals, length of time left on the hair, and temperature used will vary depending on your goals (are you straightening, or just eliminating frizz?”> and of course your stylist. Be sure to go to a trained professional you can trust, either through reading salon reviews or from personal recommendations. It is possible to have a very positive experience with keratin if you know what to look out for. Many women in the curly community swear by their keratin treatments to prevent frizz, while maintaining their natural curl pattern.

The bottom line

Have you tried a keratin treatment? What were the results?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 10, 2014

Curl pattern gets all the attention and glory but it should not overshadow the importance of hair porosity

You may be wondering what products or ingredients are better for your strands once you find out. No worries, because we are here to suggest hair butters for each hair porosity so that your tresses get exactly what it will need for the colder weather. I have to admit that do not use butters as much as other products, so as I searched for more information I began to wonder why I had not given them a real try. I love natural oils so much that it just makes sense to give them a try.

According got Making Cosmetics, natural (vegetable”> butters are extracted from numerous plants, roots, seeds, and trees and they contain solid or semi-solid fat oils. This makes them outstanding emollients, softeners, and protecting agents for your body and hair. They are made up of fatty acids, oils, and active ingredients with each one having specialized properties like anti-inflammatory, soothing, antioxidants and even moisturizing.

Low porosity

Low porosity hair needs the moisture-rich natural butters that will hold onto the moisture it gets. Because it has a more closed cuticle than the other two porosity types, it is more prone to build up and products often weigh the hair down.

Avocado Butter

Pistachio Butter

Cupuacu Butter

Cupuacu butter is very similar to cocoa butter, but cupuacu has a softer and creamier consistency. It contains fatty acids and phytosterols and is very moisturizing to your skin and hair. It is also great for its UV-A and UV-B protection.

Medium Porosity

The middle of the road porosity hair type is the easiest to manage since it retains just the right amount of moisture and can hold onto it. That does not mean it cannot benefit from natural butters and it does need to be taken care of.

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa butter is a high quality emollient and conditioner that adds nourishment and shine to your tresses without weighing it down. 

Shea Butter 

High Porosity

This hair type has either been damaged mechanically, chemically, by weather elements, or can even be genetic. Too much moisture is absorbed and released quickly, so a natural butter used on this type needs to do double duty by attracting and sustaining moisture.

Palm Butter

Coffee Bean Butter

Hemp Seed Butter

What’s your porosity, and which butters work best for you?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 5, 2014

Benefits of Conditioner Bars

• Conditioner bars are less wasteful. Unlike most liquid conditioners that are made with around 60 to 80% water, these do not contain water and are full of the ingredients you want. Concerned about distribution? The water from your shower will help to spread the product.
• They are easy to use. They just glide on your wet hair and you can use either your fingers or a wide tooth comb to distribute.  
• The packaging is limited. Waste not, want not. Being green is always a plus!
• There is less mess. No leaking bottle or spillage while in the shower. We all know that is the worst!  
• It is lost lasting/cost-effective. This little bar will last a very long time, if you let it properly dry after each use it will last a very long time. Cutting your bars into smaller portions and using a little at a time will help you preserve it.
• Create easy traveling. Great for travel because they pack without the worry of leakage.  

Now that you see just how beneficial they are it is time to give some a try. I have two recipes for you to try and get your DIY urges met!

DIY Solid Conditioner: Spill-Proof for Your Travels

Have you ever been forced to part with a beloved beauty product in airport security? Or found yourself hurriedly pouring your cocktails into travel-size containers the night before a trip? What about the fateful mishap of opening your suitcase to find your shampoo has spilled all over your clothes. This spill-proof conditioner bar is perfect for your travels. It will give you fifty grams of product that are easy to travel with no matter what.

Tools and Ingredients

• Kitchen scale
• Spoon
• Double boiler pot
• Silicone cupcake molds
• 30% (15g”> cocoa butter 
• 30% (15g”> incroquat* (behentrimonium chloride”> 
• 20% (10g”> cetyl alcohol 
• 20% (10g”> nourishing oil of choice 
• Optional: essential oil(s”>
• Optional: hydrolyzed keratin, panthenol, or silk amino acids (proteins”>. 

Directions

1. Mix everything together and pour into a double boiler pot on low-medium heat.
2. Stir occasionally until completely melted. 
3. Pour the mixture into the silicone molds.
4. Let it cool down, preferably in the fridge or freezer for an hour. 
5. Peel or cut the conditioner bars out of the mold.

Recipe from Her Packing List

Argan Oil Conditioner Bars

Argan oil is ideal for low porosity, very curly hair, but you can substitute for the hair oil of your choice.

Tools and Ingredients

• Saucepan with 2 in of water
• Craft stick
• Pint sized mason jar 
• Quarter cup of BTMS 50
• 1 Tbsp shea butter
• 1 Tbsp cetyl alcohol
• 1 Tsp argan oil
• 1 Tsp apricot oil
• .5 Tsp DL panthenol
• 1.25 ml phenonip
• Essential oil(s”>

Directions

1. Mix the BTMS, shea butter, cetyl alcohol, argan oil, and apricot oil in the mason jar.
2. Place the mason jar in a saucepan and heat mixture on a low-medium setting. 
3. Make sure all of the ingredients are melted before turning off the burner. 
4. Quickly add DL panthenol and phenonip and essential oils. 
5. Pour conditioner into the silicone molds. 
6. Allow the conditioner bars to become completely solid and then remove them from the mold. 
7. Place it in a cool and dry place for around 24 hrs.

Recipe from Hair Treatments Talk

Not into DIY? Try the LUSH Jungle Conditioner Bars or the Nature Skin Shop Hair Keratin Treatment, which comes in a ready made bar form without any of the kitchen time.

Have you tried a conditioner bar?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 4, 2014

Regular cleansing and conditioning is a must

If you normally wash your own hair every week or every other week, wearing a wig or weave will not or should not change that. If you are wearing a wig then take it off and wash hair as usual. If you are wearing a weave you still need to cleanse your hair regularly. Using an applicator bottle with a pointed tip to apply the shampoo directly to your scalp. Diluting the shampoo in the applicator bottle will allow you to remove it easier. Gently massage with fingertips to effectively cleanse your scalp and hair and smooth the shampoo down the extensions. In order to prevent matting and tangling, do not rub the hair in a circular motion.

Conditioning is just as important as cleansing, so do not skip this step! If getting to your hair is difficult then you can add conditioner to another pointed tip applicator bottle to ensure all of your hair receives the conditioner. To avoid tangles wash in the shower or sitting straight up in the tub. Being bent over the kitchen sink and having the hair over your head can allow tangles to occur in the weave hair. I use this method for washing my own hair to keep tangles at bay.

Natural oils are still necessary

After the cleansing and conditioning you need to seal in the moisture with an oil. Some naturals like to oil their scalp, so if you prescribe to that then place a few drops of your favorite natural oil on your fingertips and run them along your scalp in between the weave tracks. Massage the oil into your scalp, hair, and even the wig or weave if it is human hair. If you are wearing synthetic hair you may need to be more careful as it will not need it.

Allow your hair to properly dry prior to wearing the wig after cleansing your own tresses. You do not want to harbor a breeding ground for mold by keeping your hair damp under that wig. Allow your hair to properly dry after cleansing your hair or weave before adding hair accessories like headbands, hats, or scarves.

Do not neglect the wig or weave

They need to be cleansed and conditioned as well. Human hair can and should be treated just like your own hair so it needs to be cleansed and conditioned. For synthetic wigs or weave hair you should consult the manufactures instructions on cleansing to keep it clean and looking good for the duration of the style.

Avoid having hair bunched up under a wig

Bunched hair tangles and causes breakage. Keep hair braided or wrapped neatly and worry more about being gentle to your hair than how flat the twist are under the wig.

Choose a wig that allows your hair to breath

A wig with netting allows your hair to receive some air without the pollutants so you get the best of both worlds. Make sure to use a silk wig cap in order to knot dry your hair out.

Remove weave after 6-8 weeks

Keeping it in longer can lead to locking of your hair, the weave, or both.

Give hair a break in between applications of added hair

Your hair needs a break from the wigs and weaves, so removing your sew-in, washing your hair, and immediately installing another sew-in is not giving your hair enough time to breathe and enjoy the lack of tension. Tasha Swearingen says, “The time you’ll need to do without a sew-in really just depends on how your hair reacts, which you won’t know until you take it out. If you have a lot of breakage after you’ve taken out the sew-in, you might consider leaving it out for a few weeks while you work to replenish the moisture your hair needs.”

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 3, 2014

We see boys and girls running around with curls, coils, and locs, so the grooming lessons are needed for anyone with more than an inch of hair. Basic hair care needs will one day become their own responsibility, so unless you want them blindly thrashing, you have to teach them routines, techniques, and basic hair hygiene.

Washing hair routines

Washday is the longest day for most naturals. There is pre-pooing, detangling, cleansing, deep conditioning, and styling. Depending on your schedule, goals, and your hair’s needs, the day can be a chore. As you drag your child through this ritual are they paying attention to what you are doing? No, they are not. There needs to be conversation and even participation (when they are old enough”> so they first understand why we do what we do and then learn how to do it.

Start young and stay consistent with cleansing routines. If you want them to have a good understanding of the importance of clean hair, then they need to see it occurring. There are product lines for children that are great for their beautiful hair. Try them out and see if you like them and if they like them. Get them involved in the process as soon as they show an interest. And when they are old enough, teach them how to read labels and which ingredients to look for.

The wonders and dangers of heat

You may already be applying heat to their hair, whether it is a flat iron or blow-dryer. No matter what you are using, make sure you teach them about the benefits and drawbacks of heat styling. When you educate your child about the proper tools, techniques, products (e.g. heat protectants“>, and temperatures then heat styling can be used effectively to lessen the potential of heat damage.

Teaching your child about using heat means educating them on the effect of too much heat, too high heat, and not using correct tools to ensure heat damage does not occur. Do not wait until they leave the nest. Make sure they understand how to properly care for their tresses when using heat and if you do not feel comfortable using heat then consult a professional. It is better to allow someone else to do it than to possibly damage your child’s tresses.

Color, chemicals, and care

Most of us hope chemicals are not introduced too early in our child’s life, despite the fact that many naturals had relaxed hair as children. This norm of the past is giving way to embracing natural hair and that comes with the acceptance of coily, curly, and wavy tresses that were once considered bad. All hair is good, and as we nurture our children’s hair we must educate them on some chemicals that are more popular and appropriate for adults. Adding color to your child’s hair can be done with hair chalk or even cream eye shadows, so using chemicals are not necessary. It is fun, inexpensive, and much safer than using chemicals.

There may be a time when your teenager may want to experiment with permanent color and texture altering products, so make sure they are aware of the dangers of not using them properly and overall risks. There is no guaranteed way to prevent damage. Chemistry expert Anne Marie Helmenstine says that using bleach will lighten the hair by reacting to the melanin in the hair and removing the color through an irreversible chemical reaction. Teaching your child everything about hair bleaching is not necessary, especially when small, but they do need to know how this process will change the hair, as the need for protein treatments and deep conditioning may have to be incorporated in his or her regimen more frequently. Deep conditioning and retaining moisture will always be necessary when working with chemicals of any kind.  

Salons

Are they necessary? To some yes, but not so much for others, as many naturals have embarked on the DIY hair care trek with huge success. From trims and hair color, there are more naturals taking the plunge and allowing bloggers, vloggers, and hair sites to guide them on at-home hair care. Introducing your child to a salon is a great way for them to know there are resources for them. No one says you have to do everything for their hair, so if you feel more comfortable seeking out a professional for certain styles or treatments just take out the time to find them. Check out our salons around the country that cater to curls, waves, and coils so you know they will be able to care for your child’s tresses.

When will you start teaching your child to self groom?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 30, 2014

There are many regimens, techniques, and products that you tend to leave behind once you become a natural-haired woman. You leave the relaxer chemicals, six-week trims, and curling irons behind, as you no longer have a use for them. There are some you may hold onto as they still have a space in your heart like flat irons, setting lotion, and rollers. Rollers? Yes, rollers! They are magical creatures that will give your hair bounce, shine, and silkiness, and while often times they are associated with relaxed hair, they do have a place for curls, coils, and waves.

Natural hair is versatile and practically an open canvas for any style you hope to achieve. It can even look like relaxed hair with the right technique and yes, that goes for all hair textures, so do not think you cannot achieve silky hair that will blow in the wind. There is nothing wrong with embracing your curl patterns, but for the natural who loves variety can have it all with the right rollers, setting lotion, technique, and creativity.

Why Use a Roller Set?

• Achieve looser curls, tighter curls, and stretched hair without the need for heat
• Use a hooded dryer or air-dry instead of using a blow-dryer or flat iron
• Use the same magnetic or cold perm rod rollers you used while relaxed
• Your style will last much longer than it would if achieved with heat tools

What You’ll Need

The perfect roller set starts well before you add the rollers. It starts with the right cleanser, conditioner, moisturizer, and setting lotion. For the best roller sets start on wet, clean hair. You want the hair to be free of dirt and old product buildup so make sure to use a clarifying shampoo or a really good cleansing co-wash.

The Products

A deep condition (e.g. Curl Junkie Curl Rehab Moisturizing Hair Treatment“> should follow your cleanse. You can leave your treatment or masque on for 5 min or for 15 min with a plastic cap for extra conditioning. Rinse and now it is time for the leave-in conditioner and styling products. For the leave-in conditioner you can use Karen’s Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia Leave-in Conditioner, as it is great if you choose to sit under the hooded dryer. For setting lotion you can go with old faithful that every relaxed woman will know about, Lotta Body Setting Lotion. For smoother roots try your favorite gel just on the roots. We suggest Eco Styler Olive Oil Styling Gel. Even if you choose not to use it all over it will be great for slicking down your edges once hair is dry and down.

The Rollers

The rollers that seem to work the best are magnetic rollers. The smaller the roller, the tighter the curl, and if youchoose to use smaller rollers on longer hair, then your drying time will increase. Here are some rules of thumb: make sure you do not pick a roller that is too big, make sure each section is tangle-free and the hair lays smoothly on each roller, and do not remove the rollers until your hair is completely dry. If you release your style while your hair is still damp, your hair will frizz and your curl pattern will revert. Roller paper is not necessary but if you have it then give it a try and see if you like it.

Before You Go to Sleep…

There are a few ways to preserve your hair during nighttime. You can either go super old school by wrapping it up at night or you can pin your curls in place (pin curl”> to ensure your curls last around a week or even longer. Make sure to wear a satin bonnet to help preserve the hair.  In order to keep your edges laid you can use edge control as reinforcement.

And When You Wake Up

If you chose to wrap your hair, then comb out your wrap with a wide-tooth comb. If you chose to pin curl your hair then you can either use your fingers to style or use a wide-tooth comb. You may want to add a few drops of your favorite oil in the palm of your hand to smooth any stray hairs or just take down pin curls to keep sections smooth. You can also smooth some of the oil onto your wrap style for the same reason.

Jess from MahoganyCurls has a great video on roller setting that allows you to see the technique and the finished product.

What are some of your roller set tips?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 28, 2014

Don’t Be Intimidated

A surfactant or detergent molecule is one that possesses the trait of having one distinct portion of the molecule that is polar and hydrophilic (water-loving”>, and one portion that is non-polar and hydrophobic (water-fearing”>. To many this sounds intimidating but it can be merely a challenge once you understand what you need is  a cleansing product that will do what it is intended to do without drying out your tresses. No one needs or wants that type of headache, so before you start whipping up everything in your kitchen we need to understand what we are doing and why.  

Shampoos can be drying, especially if they contain harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS”>. This additive that makes your cleansing products foam has been linked to cancer, neurotoxicity, organ toxicity, skin irritation, and endocrine disruption according to Livestrong. It is an emulsifier and foaming agent but it is not necessary to clean your hair. If you are already squeamish about it then no worries because what is the point in creating a product and making it harmful to your hair? We are not in that type of business.

Why a Shampoo Bar Might Be Better than Your Shampoo

Creating a shampoo has its own benefits, but creating a shampoo bar has even more. They tend to be free of silicones and sulfates and chock-full with natural oils. Many using them love the effects they have on their tresses and they gently cleanse without drying out or harming the hair. Another benefit is there is no SLS, and although shampoo bars have negatively charged surfactants, Curl Chemist says “The difference is that the polar head group of the molecule is a carboxylate, rather than a sulfate (R-COO-Na+ vs. R-OSO3-Na+”>, which results in a milder surfactant.” Lye is used in the making of shampoo bars but calm your nerves. It is completely consumed in the chemical reaction and will not irritate or burn your hair or skin. Be very careful when working with lye and use a lye calculator as all the shampoo bar makers suggest, like Soap Cal.net! Now, are we ready for some amazing recipes?

Horsetail Shampoo Bar Recipe for Dry Hair

By Frugally Sustainable

So many curlies, naturals, and wavies have dry hair so it makes sense to find a recipe that is created to combat that popular issue and with winter coming we are more than ready for the task.

Ingredients

• 8 oz coconut oil
• 8 oz olive oil
• 8 oz organic, sustainably-sourced palm oil
• 4 oz shea butter
• 2 oz cocoa butter
• 3 oz castor oil
• 10 oz handmade horsetail water infusion
• 1 tbsp horsetail powder
• 2 oz argan oil
• 2 oz essential oil blend of ylang ylang, bay, clary sage, sweet orange, and cedarwood

Shea Butter & Citrus Shampoo Bar for Oily Hair

By Humblebee & Me

The Citrus in this shampoo bar is perfect for breaking up excess oils.

Ingredients

• 5 oz olive oil
• 3 oz castor oil
• 2 oz shea butter
• 4 oz coconut oil
• 2 oz avocado oil
• 2 oz lye
• 6 oz water
• 1/2 oz lemon essential oil

Therapeutic Homemade Shampoo Recipe for Normal Hair

By Savvy Homemade

Ingredients

• 9.5 oz (270ml”> mineral water
• 2 chamomile teabags
• 24.5 oz olive oil
• 3.5 oz sweet almond oil
• 2 oz  beeswax
• 2 oz creamed coconut
• 4 oz lye (sodium hydroxide/caustic soda”>
• 4 tsp bergamot essential oil
• 2 tsp lavender essential oil
• 1 tsp geranium essential oil
• 1 tsp rosemary essential oil

Do you make shampoo bars? Do you want to?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 27, 2014

Both hair and nails have living parts, but those living parts are beneath the skin. Hair and nails grow out from a matrix, which for our hair turns into our hair follicle; for our nails it is the nail bed or nail plate. Audrey Sivasothy says, “Cells grow out from the matrix, and older cells eventually are pushed out by newer cells growing in. The newer cells cause the older cells to become compacted, and as the cells are further removed from their blood supply, they form keratin proteins and begin to harden into the hair fiber, or nail, that we see.” Hair and nails are the results and are known as keratinization, which is what makes our hair and nails grow.

Health and Hair Growth

Our hair and nails are quite telling of our health, and doctors can often tell the health of a person by the condition of either. Many diseases will and can cause hair loss as well as dry, brittle, dotted, yellow, or irregular nails. Livestrong attributes healthy nails to a healthy thyroid, healthy kidneys, and balanced hormones. Poor blood circulation, malnutrition, and some medications slow down the growth rates of your nails and hair. Diseases or treatments for them (e.g. chemotherapy”> can negatively affect your hair and nail growth too.

Honestly, there are several factors that contribute to the growth of both your nails and hair like sex, age, diet, exercise, and even the time of year. Sivasothy also shares that summer is the fastest time for nail and hair growth, yet scientists do not understand why. Before children hit puberty they have nails that heal and grow back much faster than adults. How Stuff Works says that men’s nails and hair grow faster than women’s, except during pregnancy when there is a hormonal boost of metabolism and blood circulation. New keratin is created and supported by numerous types of nutrients and eating a diet high in protein (e.g. meat and leafy greens”>, which your body to breaks down into amino acids and redistributes throughout the body. Remember, you are what you eat.

Did You Know…

Some funny facts about nail growth are that nails grow faster on the hand that is most dominant or used more often, pinkie nails grow the slowest, and index fingernails grow the fastest. Fingernails grow about four times faster than toenails and adult nails will grow about one-tenth of an inch a month according to How Stuff Works. And as you may have guessed by now, hair grows much faster than fingernails and toenails with about ¼ to ½ in a month or 6 in a year. Hair grows faster than other tissues in the body other than bone marrow.

Growth Boosters

There are tons of products on the market that claim to boost your hair and nail growth, and most have proteins like biotin and B6 and will strengthen your hair and nails, whether it is consumed through a pill or a meal. Livestrong emphasizes that sulfur in the body will produce keratin and vitamin A to help your body absorb protein correctly and aid in the physical composition of your hair and nails. Vitamin C, B2, B7 and vitamin E all aid in healthy tissue and will make your hair stronger, healthier, and grow at amazing rates; all of which can be found in foods instead of a supplement. I am not knocking supplements at all, as I use them, but never underestimate the power of eating right and exercising.

Hair grows faster than nails but for maximum growth and strength stay healthy, stay young (at heart”>, and keep eating those veggies!

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 24, 2014

University of Maryland Medical Center says it has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antiviral properties so this is great for an irritated scalp. There seems to be some promising news for men and women suffering from thinning hair or hair loss. Some groups who follow natural healing feel St. John’s Wort has healing powers. With its regenerative properties it is believed to stimulate hair growth for people whose hair has been affected by radiation treatments, pulling, or other damage to the scalp. The Cancer and Natural Therapy Foundation of Australia has a scalp oil recipe that is great for encouraging a healthy scalp that is noted below.

NYU Langone Medical Center notes that in a study with patients taking antidepressants, hair loss was associated with St. John’s Wort, but the study also mentions that standard antidepressants may also cause hair loss at times as well, so it is inconclusive if the plant created the hair loss. The bottom line is that the full benefits of this plant are still being explored despite its usage to treat depression and for hair loss remedies for some. If you are on the fence about taking it as a supplement there are hair products to try that may be to your liking.

Phyto Phytonectar Ultra-Nourishing Brilliance Shampoo

St. John’s Wort extract, water, PEG-4 Rapeseedamide (fatty acid”>, PEG-7 glyceryl cocate (fatty acid derived from coconut”>, and disodium cocoamphodiacetate (synthetic surfactant”> make up this highly concentrated botanical shampoo. Watch it restore much needed moisture to your tresses and gain back strength, softness, and shine.

ECO-lina Fito Beauty Natural Shampoo

Water, sodium chloride (salt to thicken”>, cocamide DEA (chemically modified form of coconut oil”>, tea tree oil, and St. John’s Wort come together to strengthen the hair shaft. Your hair’s surface layer cells will be restored and hair growth is stimulated with the elaborate combination of herbs. Gently cleanse your hair and scalp and improve micro-circulation of blood to the scalp.

ECO-lina Fito Beauty Natural Conditioner

Water, fatty acids, cetrimonium chloride (emulsifying or conditioning agents”>, sunflower oil, aloe extract, and sweet flag extract create a powerful leave-in conditioner. Strengthen your strands, stimulate hair growth, and improve microcirculation of blood in the scalp to strengthen your hair’s overall structure.

St John’s Wort & Basil Oil Scalp Massage

For the DIYers in the group we have a scalp massage that claims to help with hair loss as well as being quite relaxing. It is a powerhouse massage oil with fresh St. John’s Wort, fresh basil, olive, basil, and vitamin E oils.

The verdict is not in yet on whether St. John’s Wort can definitely fight against hair loss but with all its amazing antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory properties it is worth trying.

Have you tried St. John’s Wort and if so, what was your take away? 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 17, 2014

PHOTO COURTESY OF ITSCINNAME

“The Loc Soc”

ItsCinnaMe shares a video on the versatile and gorgeous Loc Soc that was originally created for loc wearers for sleeping, keeping locs out of the way, and protection. It soon gave way to style and now many naturals are rocking them and for good reason. They are gorgeous and perfect for the awkward stage in your natural hair journey. I promise you will be eager to get one (or more”> when you see how cute and simple they are for your tresses, and with the cooler weather coming up it is the perfect time to rock them. They can be found at Soclocsoc.com.

Crochet braids

Crochet braids are so big right now and for good reason. They make an awkward stage invisible to the world with a protective style that needs no glue, adhesive, or hooks. Crochet braids provide style versatility, the hair can be synthetic or human, and as long as you do not neglect your tresses underneath you can breeze through your awkward stage. In this tutorial AGirlsCurls shows us ten styles (that’s right ten”> that are great for the curly crocheted hair.

The New Puff

Ragin from brings an easy, funky take on the regular old puff that sometimes we tire of. These styles can be achieved in minutes with few tools. Whether you have freshly washed hair or bed head ‘fro, check out these style when you are on the go.

Tools and Products

• Gel
• Brush
• Skinny headband
• Small ouchless rubber bands
• Spray bottle mixture
• Bobby pins
• Edge control (optional”>

Directions

1. Spritz hair with spray bottle mixture
2. Apply gel to edges and nape
3. Section out a front piece from flat twisting for French braiding
4. Brush and smooth rest of hair up into a puff
5. Apply stocking legs or headband to puff
6. Fluff & spray puff
7. Apply gel to edges for smoothness (optional”>
8. Tie scarf around base for at least 20 min to set style

Flexi Rod Set

TheChicNatural reminds us that flexi rod curls look great on any length. As you wait for your hair to grow to medium length, this style is great to rock and will last for days if properly maintained at night.

Tools and products

• Flexi rods (The small the rod, the tighter the coil, the longer style longevity”>
• Leave-in conditioner
• Styling lotion mixed half and half with water
• Denman or paddle brush

Directions

1. Start on freshly washed hair
2. Section small pieces of hair for flexi rods
3. Apply leave-in conditioner and work in
4. Spray sectioned hair with setting lotion and water mixture and work in
5. Brush with Denman or paddle brush and brush hair smooth and detangled
6. Apply flexi rod from the bottom. Make sure your ends are smooth and fully wrapped around flexi rod and roll hair up to roots and bend the rod upward to assure the rod does not unravel.
7. Repeat until the whole head is complete
8. Allow your hair to fully dry before unwrapping flexi rods (make sure to have oil on hands to combat frizz”>
9. Fluff to desired fullness 

How did you style your hair at an awkward length?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 14, 2014

Dandruff is the dreaded “D” word to many when it comes to hair. It is an annoying issue that some naturals will have to deal with at least once during their journey. Medical News Today says that dandruff is a common condition of the scalp that causes flakes of skin to appear and is marked by itching. The exact cause of dandruff is unknown. However, most experts do agree that it is not caused by poor hygiene.

Despite it not being easy to treat, it can be controlled and calmed if using the right products and techniques.  Nothing is worse than thinking you need to scrub the dickens out of your scalp to get it cleaner when all that harsh scrubbing will in fact make it worse. So, if you suffer from dandruff you do not have poor hygiene. Dandruff is a common condition because our skin cells are forever renewing themselves, and as the new ones are being renewed in our scalp the old or dead ones are pushed to the surface and then out of the scalp.  Common ways to treat dandruff would be the use of anti-dandruff or anti-fungal shampoos and most will have one or more of these ingredients in them: zinc pyrithione, selenium sulphide, coal tar, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, and tea tree oil. What really put dandruff at bay for me was doing the Curly Girl Method . If neither of those remedies are attractive to you, then check out our top 10 list of shampoos for fighting dandruff. 

Top 10 Dandruff Shampoos

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 14, 2014

Hair porosity is fundamental to understanding your hair type. It may not get as much attention, but knowing your hair’s porosity will make caring for your tresses simpler and retaining moisture easier. With curly hair, moisture retention is top priority. Hair porosity is how well your hair will absorb and retain moisture, oils, or chemicals (like color”> and is affected by the elasticity of one’s hair cuticle. The cuticle’s condition determines how easily moisture will pass in and out of your strands, and yes it does go both ways meaning your hair’s cuticle can receive moisture and it can lose it.

There are three types of hair porosity: low, medium, and high.

There are three types of hair porosity: low, medium, and high. Genetics is the biggest factor that will determine your hair’s porosity when at a healthy state. Other factors in hair porosity have less to do with genetics and more with external influences like exposure to chemical treatments, heat styling, and environmental elements. High porosity hair has holes and gaps in the cuticle layer, which allows moisture to be quickly absorbed and quickly released. Please do not make the mistake of thinking high porosity hair cannot retain adequate moisture without losing it all. It takes extra work and knowledge to find the right routine and techniques to keep your hair healthy during the colder months. Here are a few tips that will help.

1. LOC method

The L.O.C. method works best for tightly coiled naturals (Type 4“> and high porous hair since both crave water. This method is perfect for getting the right amount of moisture in and keeping it in by layering the products in a specific order to receive maximum moisture retention. Liquid or leave-in conditioner will add the moisture, the oil will seal it, and the cream, butter, or even gel is just another layer of sealant. You may be wondering why sealing is necessary if your moisturizer is formulated with oil and Janelle elaborates on the importance of sealing.

2. Protein treatments

They are great for year-round, but if you have been slacking on them while frolicking in the sun this summer, then you really should incorporate them during this winter. High porosity hair is more vulnerable to dryness during the winter and protein treatments give your strands strength by temporarily patching up the holes in your hair’s cuticle layer. Monthly treatments are great during winter, but do not use protein treatments as a moisturizer or use them frequently like you would a moisturizer. Too much protein is just as bad as not using it at all and can make the hair brittle and cause it to break.

3. Gentle cleansers

Shampoos clean your tresses and the surfactants in them do the job effectively. The problems some (not all”> surfactants is they (e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate”> can strip the natural oils out and even make worsen the holes and gaps in high porosity hair. There are naturals who love shampoo and swear by gentle and moisturizing shampoos and forgo co-washing. With the dryer weather it just does not pay to use products that can potentially make your hair drier than need be, so the cooler months may be a good time to start reincorporating co-washing.

4. Heavier oils and butters

For effective sealing during winter, try heavier products like shea butter, olive oil, avocado oil, or castor oil. Use products that have them in the first five ingredients to ensure you are getting the full benefit of the heavier oils. They not only help with sealing your porous tresses, but they add that protective layer your strands may be lacking.

How do you care for your high porosity curls, coils, and waves in the colder months?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 10, 2014

There is a fine art to heat styling. I know thousands, if not millions of women heat style regularly, and it is important to approach heat cautiously. Sister Scientist gave us the breakdown of various heat protectant options in order to avoid frying your hair. The blow-dryer is a great tool to stretch your natural hair for a gorgeous blow out and even a stretched wash and go, but you should not rely solely on the appliance for a flawless finish. Smart heat styling is also about the products you use on your hair to provide protection and give your tresses shine and bounce. Here are the top 10 blow-drying products to give you the best blow-dry styling session so your hair stays healthy and gorgeous!

Top 10 Blow Out Products

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 10, 2014

Aloe vera, aka the “wonder plant”, is a short-stemmed shrub with succulent leaves full of beneficial properties that have been treasured throughout our history. It is used in food, cosmetics, food supplements, herbal remedies, and hair products. It is a medicinal plant that can be grown in most climates and is often times found in many homes as a fix for minor burns, sunburn, frostbite, psoriasis, and even cold sores.

Aloe vera is amazing on our curls, coils, and waves. It promotes hair growth and adds strength and luster to your strands while retaining moisture. It also alleviates itchiness and dryness and soothes inflamed and sensitive scalps, reduces dandruff, and is a great conditioning agent. You just cannot go wrong with adding aloe vera juice to your hair care regimen. Many use aloe vera gel or aloe vera juice to create DIY cleansers, conditioners, and styling aids, but if you are not the DIY’er than you may want to gain all the benefits of the “wonder plant” through some highly moisturizing products below.

Top 15 Products with Aloe Vera

By Sabrina Perkins · Published October 9, 2014

Finding information about this ultra-secretive, uber exciting, exclusive line is not an easy task so I shimmied my nosey self to my nearest Target to get the scoop. This new line by Clairol is divided into two collections: the Moisture Collection and Volume Collection. The Root Clarifying Shampoo stands alone. The packaging is earthy, the names sound inviting, and the infusions look amazing. The shampoos and conditioners have pumps (a serious plus”> and I must say this line has me quite intrigued.

The Moisture Collection

The shampoo is silicone, parabens and mineral oil free and boasts of imparting moisture while you delight in the aroma of apricot. The paraben and mineral oil-free conditioner has water, fatty alcohols, conditioning agents, silicones, and fragrance as the first ingredients so not the best for the all-natural lovers but certainly not the worst, as it will provide the slip necessary for removing tangles and adding softness and shine. There is also a paraben and mineral oil free hair mask to round off this moisture collection. 

The Volume Collection

This collection is infused with kiwi fragrance, and just like the shampoos and conditioners in the moisture collection we see the shampoo is absent of silicones, parabens, and mineral oil. This collection is about giving your hair life full of volume and movement. No hair mask in this trio but rather a hair thickening treatment that is free of parabens, mineral oil, and preservatives.

The thickening hair treatment captivated me with the instructions: “Use Daily. Apply to wet or dry hair. Spray 15 pumps at the roots to cover your scalp from the ear line up. Massage in with fingertips.” What can this magic product do? I am very interested to find out!

Root Clarifying

There is only one product in this category: a clarifying shampoo that is pretty in pink, and an earthy pink at that. This clarifier is infused with strawberry ginger fragrance and is free of parabens, silicones, and mineral oil, and like all clarifying shampoos it promises to remove all buildup from your tresses.

Price

The prices seem reasonable with $9.99 for all the shampoos and conditioners which are in 10.1 oz. bottles and the thickening hair treatment is $12.99 for 6.3 oz. Right now they are buy one get one 50% off through the Oct. 11! This is the perfect time to check out one of the collections and if you have a red card from Target you will get that extra 5% off so honestly, what are you waiting for?

Have you seen it or even tried it yet?