Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 29, 2015

Do oils have proteins?

Yes…if contaminated. Wait a minute…what? According to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., essential oils are created through distillation, which is a purification process that separates substances from one another via condensation or evaporation. Proteins are destroyed as their bonds are broken down during the process of distilling. Beyond distillation, proteins have even bigger issues than just the separating of the substances.

Dr. David Stewart states, “The range of molecular weights that can pass through distillation ranges up to 500 amu. Proteins and enzymes have molecular weights that range well above 10,000 amu.” Remember that without hydrolyzing proteins, they are too large to penetrate and adsorb to the hair cuticle. They are too big to pass through the purification process and cannot fare the process itself, but if an oil is cold pressed there may be the presence of proteins remaining from the flesh or pulp of the fruit, herb, or plant.

I mentioned them being immense because even if they are present during cold pressing, they would still be unable to penetrate the hair cuticle or even administer to the cellular level, the way a distilled oil would. So even if present, they would not be benefiting your hair in the same way as hydrolyzed proteins that have been broken down. So, if you are protein sensitive, then oils are the least of your concerns.

So even if present, these proteins would not be benefiting your hair in the same way as hydrolyzed proteins that have been broken down.

Now, you may wonder about carrier oils, but according to the chemist from The Natural Haven, coconut oil does not contain protein. Coconut oil is separated from the coconut flesh through heating and using a sieve. Coconut milk does contain proteins as the milk is made “from suspending the flesh in water and may contain bits of the flesh.”

Conclusion

If an essential oil is distilled, then proteins are not present, as they cannot pass through the distillation process required to yield the essential oil. They are too big and may even end up being demolished by the process. There are techniques, such as cold pressing, where proteins may be present but they are too big to actually penetrate the hair’s cuticle, bond, and temporarily rebuild it. You run into a similar problem with carrier oils or at the very least coconut oil, as its process requires heat, which removes the proteins. So, yes some oils contain proteins but regardless of how the oil is extracted, they are too large to bind and strengthen the individual strands.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 26, 2015

When you think of twists, most think of the popular natural hairstyle called the twist out. You can rock the twists by themselves or form them into countless styles that will give you days and weeks of protective style with minimal hassle. Twist outs and twists are great but if you have fine, low density hair then you may prefer the chunkier look. One means of creating a fuller, protective style is with extensions. Hair extensions have lasted the test of time, and as hairstyles change, extensions continue to be relevant, stylish, and an easy way to spruce up a look. Many women are already aware of waves and braids for hair extensions but twists are making a huge mark in new ways to add hair to gain fullness, length, and versatility.

Now is a great time to try out twists for the first time! There are Marley twists, Nubian twists, Senegalese twists, Havana twist, and kinky twist, and I am sure there will be a new one out in 2015. The styles are growing in numbers and so has the interest over the last few years with no letup in 2015. In the event that you want extension twists, there are a few rules that all twists require for a great look that will not cause breakage or pain.

Do not make them too tight

“Most breakage and traction alopecia is caused by too-tight extensions,” says Diane Bailey, natural hair consultant and celebrity hair stylist. Extensions that are too tight can cause long-term damage or hair loss so worry less about how long the styles lasts and more about removing only your added hair when it is time for them to be removed.

Be gentle with those edges/baby hairs

I jest but want to make it clear perfectly clear just how fragile your edges and nape. Traction alopecia and other forms of hair loss are not always reversible. I promise, your style still looks good with a bit of frizz.

Take a break

Taking out your twists or any extensions to immediately install new ones is a good way to beat up your hair and scalp. They both need a break and that means some TLC with a deep conditioner or hot oil treatment and some air. Give your hair a few weeks off from the extensions or for the very least a weekend.

Unsure? Go to a professional

DIY is running the world but do not feel like you have to do it yourself if you cannot or do not feel confident. You end up with less worry, less hassles, and the assurance that you will have a gorgeous and long-lasting style.

Read more: Ask Dr. Kari: Effective Protective Styling

Regular twisting products work well on extensions

There seems to be some misunderstanding on which products are best for twisting natural hair and blending extensions. Well, it is time to share this nugget of information because some may be wasting precious time and money looking for twisting creams, gels, and butters specifically for extensions. One of the reasons you should use the same products you use on your own hair is because the extensions will be in your hair for weeks or a couple of months. You want a polished result but you also want harmony with your hair and the added hair. Finding products that will give you everything you want may take trial and error, but make sure your hair is happy with it first and the extension hair second.

No one is saying disregard the harmony of your strands and the extension hair together, but the health of your hair should always take precedence. Now, you should find the ones that work the best for you, because it will end up giving you shine, hold, and super smoothness. It might help to twists on your own tresses with the product to see how it works before adding your extensions. Need a little help in that area? No worries, because we picked the top seven we like the best to make your twist extensions perfect!

• Jane Carter Solution Twist & Lock 
• As I Am Twist Defining Cream 
• Aunt Jackie’s Curls & Coils Girls Baby Girl Curls Curling & Twisting Custard 
• MYHoneyChild Twist Out Crème 
• Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter 
• Bee Hold Curly Butter
• Darcy’s Botanicals Coconut Butter Styling Pomade 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 20, 2015

We know shampoos are cleansers formulated with detergents that act like surfactants, which cling to the very elements we want out of our hair. The dirt, sweat, and product buildup are removed with effective shampoos but what is lather? I asked scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., for a little understanding of lather: “Shampoos are made of the chemical sodium laureth sulfate (SLS”> and cocamidopropyl betaine (SLES”>. SLS is in there for cleansing and the betaine is there for lathering. Betaine is actually what produces the bubbles or what we call lather.”

Read more: A Beginner’s Guide to Shampoo and Co-Wash

We have been conditioned to accept and expect lather in our cleansers. Women with textured hair have a love/hate relationship with shampoos because they can create tangles and dryness. Curlies and coilies are stepping away standard products that were not created with our tresses in mind. One of the first things on the chopping block was the use of shampoo.

As many began stepping away from SLS shampoos, there was always the nagging pull to return because many of the new SLS-free shampoos or even cleansing conditioners lacked the bubbles. They had neither suds nor main ingredients that were associated with the word shampoo. Like many, when I think of shampoo, I think of lather although they are not one in the same. We know the harsh detergents like SLS can be too callous to our tresses but what about the betaine?

“If you made a shampoo with just SLS it would clean the hair regardless,” Anderson states. “But consumers believe if it’s lathering, it’s cleaning. The best example I can give of a cleaning agent without lathering is when Egyptians used to cleanse their skin with olive oil…sliding dirt off their skin.”

That is an interesting tidbit and from personal experience I am  well aware of the cleaning effectiveness of oils, as I have been using the oil cleansing method to wash my face for over a year now. I also use cleansing co-washes, which were an adjustment to get use to the absence of lather, but is it necessary to do so? I decided to see what were the benefits and drawbacks.

Pros of Lather in Cleansers

• Cocamidopropyl betaine is obtained from coconut oil. 
• A little more than half of the chemical contains water. 
• It is a mild antiseptic and has mild germicidal effects.

Cons of Lather in Cleansers

• Cocamidopropyl betaine is obtained from coconut oil but it has been chemically processed via dimethylaminopropylamine and there are byproducts of salt and some impurities. 
• It can irritate the skin or you can be allergic to betaine. 

So technically, lather is not necessary to cleanse the hair. I have recently become leery of using any cleanser with too much lather, as I worry it may be drying to my tresses. I always stick to sulfate-free cleansers when I need to clarify, but to each his own as we have learned that lather is not a necessity in cleaning your tresses.

Read more: Top 10 Co-washes and Cleansing Conditioners

So curlies, is lather is a priority or passed over? 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 8, 2015

What exactly is protein sensitivity?

We hear about being protein sensitive all the time but what does that mean? According to the Toxicological Sciences in the Oxford Journals, the ability of some proteins to induce an allergic reaction has been well documented and symptoms can range from mild erythema to acute anaphylactic shock. Some proteins are intrinsically more allergenic than others, and often when we think of protein allergies we think of food allergies. What about protein allergies or sensitivity to hair or better yet the scalp?

I went back to school and asked Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed. (chemistry”> about protein sensitivity to hair and she said it could be possible but most likely on the scalp where an irritation such as bumps or patches may appear. Many often just think of what protein sensitivity means for your strands, but your scalp can suffer just as much if not more if it comes in contact with an ingredient it does not agree with. Our strands can also have sensitivity to protein and the clue would be in the reaction to it during or after the application.

Just like overuse of a protein can make your hair brittle or dry, the wrong protein or a protein your hair does not agree with can have the same outcome. The only problem is that since products have so many ingredients, how will you know what is causing the problem? It could very easily be a combination of protein with other ingredients that your hair has sensitivity to rather than the protein itself, but the only way to determine what exactly is causing the problem is trial and error.

How to determine if you have protein sensitivity?

Just try products! If you are using heat and chemicals, or manipulate your hair often, then you will need some type of protein treatment, in which the recommended potency or application frequency would depend on the needs of the individual. Experiencing dry, stiff, and brittle hair after using a product with protein or high amounts of protein is a good indicator that too much in present in your hair, which compromises the protein and moisture balance. Too much moisture creates limp hair that is too elastic. More times than not your sensitivity is actually just protein overload. It should not be a daily application, so check the ingredients label, as products with protein or high protein contents should be monitored. There are several types of proteins in hair products.

Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work

Collagen protein will increase hair’s elasticity. Silk protein will strengthen and soften the hair. Vegetable protein can be easily absorbed into the hair shaft and attract moisture. Wheat protein is a moisturizing and strengthening protein. They all bring benefits to your tresses so read the ingredients label, be aware of what they do, and if they are in the top five ingredients then you know that specific product is formulated with a lot of them.

Read more: Top 20 Protein Rich Products

Reading the labels, keeping track of which ones your hair responds well or negatively to, and making sure you are not overloading your hair with proteins are the best way to determine if you are sensitive to them.

Are you protein sensitive? What are you favorite protein rich products?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 8, 2015

If you love taking a do-it-yourself approach, you are in good company. Lots of naturalistas create their own hair treatments at home and get great results for their curls, but there is one to stay away from for the sake of your curls. While DIY protein treatments are all the rage, they aren’t an effective means to an end for hair. Let’s take a closer look at why you may want to skip those DIY protein treatments.

What are proteins?

Medical News Today defines proteins as large molecules consisting of amino acids that our bodies and the cells within them need to function properly. They are important to our existence, as our body structures, functions, and regulation of the body’s cells, tissues, and organs could not exist without them! Proteins are made up of amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein. Amino acids are necessary in the body’s processes for healthy skin and hair, as they simply encourage the growth of stronger hair when in conjunction with a healthy diet.

What foods are rich in protein?

The obvious choices for ensuring your hair has enough protein through your diet are options such as lean meats, seafood, and eggs. These items are high in the protein your hair needs to stay healthy and strong. If you are a vegetarian, there are still ways to get that all-important protein. Protein can be found in legumes, lentils, tofu, black beans, and certain vegetables like broccoli and spinach. It should be noted that the best way to give your hair protein is through your diet as opposed to topical solutions because the body has an easier time absorbing proteins through natural digestion.

How do you get proteins into your hair?

The best way is through a proper diet but you can supplement through hair products, especially if your diet is not up to snuff. Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed. (Chemistry”> explains that proteins like keratin and collagen are extremely large and need to be broken down so they can be absorbed by hair. That process is called hydrolysis and cannot be done at home, but rather in a lab.

What is hydrolysis?

Hydrolysis is a type of chemical reaction where one reactant will create at least two (or more”> products and, according to Dr. Anderson, is a decomposition reaction. Water is used because hydrolysis literally means reaction with water. A larger molecule is cleaved into two or more parts by the addition of a molecule of water. Hydrolysis allows the hair to benefit from proteins by breaking them down so they can be absorbed and aid the hair.

6 Proteins that need to be hydrolyzed

Here are some proteins that are able to support the hair because of hydrolysis.

• Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein will greatly increase the hair’s ability to retain moisture, add volume, and reduce hair’s porosity while improving its smoothness.
• Hydrolyzed Silk Protein forms a crystalline protective barrier because it is derived from silk, one of the strongest natural fibers in the world. It will improve your hair’s elasticity, resiliency, and increase the shine.
• Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a water soluble protein derived from soy that will strengthen and mend hair fibers. It increases hair’s ability to hold moisture while adding shine and smoothness.
• Hydrolyzed Milk Protein is a hydrolysate of milk protein derived by acid, enzyme, or another method of hydrolysis that moisturizes, nourishes, and improves the manageability of the hair while adding gloss and texture.
• Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein revitalizes hair’s natural protective layer while rebuilding its strength and returning the elasticity to the strands. The damages from harsh chemicals are greatly reduced.
• Hydrolyzed Collagen Protein derives from bovine bone and cartilage. This protein will temporarily bond to the hair and increase its resistance to breakage under tension.

Most proteins are too large to be effective, so hydrolysis is necessary for them to be broken down and absorb to your hair shaft, which is why the popular eggs and mayonnaise DIY protein treatments may not do what you think. It sounds complicated but the work is done for you in the lab when added to your hair products. It is a safe practice and widely used and accepted, so when you see it on a label know it is done to help strengthen your hair.

Products with hydrolyzed proteins

• Jane Carter Hydrating Invigorating Shampoo
• Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner
• Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment
• Karen’s Body Beautiful Hold It Hair Gel w/ Argan Oil

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 31, 2014

My favorite time to be glamorous is when I receive my monthly pedicure at my favorite ultra plush spa that is close to my house and within my price range. Now, I am chatty. I talk and talk and talk! No one has ever accused me of being quiet and whenever I am quiet, people ask if I am alright. Despite that side of me, when it comes to my personal time I am a monk sworn to silence. I see nothing, I hear nothing, and I register nothing but the wonderfulness surrounding me. The room is dimly lit and radiates with soft nature sounds. I sit in my plush La-Z-Boy wrapped with warm blankets and my eyes covered with a soothing mask while the best nail technician pampers my feet and legs. I am in heaven for an hour and a half.

A few Saturdays ago I was in this state when I felt someone or something touching my hair. Now, I was nearing snoring mode while I was in la la land when I felt this abrupt invasion. I had to emerge from under my comfortable blankets, remove my eye mask, and look up to see who or what was touching my hair. There were two women touching my hair without consent and I was shocked, insulted, and even a tad amused. Shocked because…who does that? Insulted because I value personal space and amused because again…who does that? “Uh, baby…who does your hair?” said the first woman who looked about 60 years old.

I had to remove my eye mask, and look up to see who or what was touching my hair.

Looking perplexed I answered, “I do it myself.” The other woman who appeared to be 70 years old responded, “No, who puts your weave in?” She even seemed annoyed as if I should have known what they were implying. I am fully aware of what I was dealing with now and when I looked down, the nail technician stopped working and looked puzzled and apologetic. I readjusted my posture to properly address this inquisition. “I don’t have a weave. My hair is natural. I’m a natural hair blogger too.” Why I chose to add that tidbit of information baffled even myself, as if I needed to give an explanation for my appearance.

By now the room full of women were all looking around to see what all the commotion was about. I was slightly embarrassed to be having this conversation in a room full of strangers and even more embarrassed at my hair being publicly fondled. Again…who does that? The younger one pursed her lips, shook her head, and motioned for the other to leave. As the older one trudged on she said rather curtly, “I felt tracks so I know she’s lying.”

As the older one trudged on she said rather curtly, ‘I felt tracks so I know she’s lying.’

I was done! My jaw dropped, my eyes glazed over, and I felt immediate shame. Seriously? She felt tracks? I had not washed my hair in over a week, maybe she felt dirt. But never tracks! With all eyes on me and the nail technician smirking, I quickly reclined the seat, placed my mask over my eyes, and removed myself from what I just experienced.

Needless to say, I got a free pedicure and apologies out the wazoo. I was told that the offenders were aunts of a guest who was getting her hair done in the salon section of the spa and they wanted to know which one of the hairdressers installed and styled what they assumed was a weave.

Funny, sad, and too embarrassing for me to recount until now, and here I am still feeling slightly shamed after being called a liar. Tracks? When I mentioned this to my sister she said I should have cussed them but what was the point?

What is your mortifyingly, embarrassing natural hair moment?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 29, 2014

Where do lentils come from?

Lentils are thought to have originated in the Near East or Mediterranean area where they were once considered a poor man’s food. Lentils or Lens culinaris have been a source of sustenance for thousands of years. They are shaped like a double convex optic lens, which actually took its name from lentils. They grow two to a pod and are dried after harvesting. Mayo Clinic says lentils are in the same groups with beans and peas and part of the legume family because they also grow in pods.

What’s in a lentil?

Tiny but mighty, WebMD says these legumes are chock-full with protein, iron, zinc, and even biotin. They are a super food that is perfect for vegetarians and vegans because they are great source of protein. They also have folate, phosphorus, potassium, and fiber. Lentils contain the third highest amount of protein of any legume, following soybeans and hemp. The iron in lentils help the red blood cells carry oxygen and this is needed for proper hair growth and stronger hair. Lack of iron can lead to slower hair growth and even hair loss. WebMD also says that a deficiency in either potassium or zinc can actually lead to hair loss too, so it is mega beneficial lentils has both and then some.

Your healthy hair diet

Lentils are perfect for a healthy hair diet. I am jumping on board with them after trying them for the first time a few months ago at a natural hair event. They were amazing and had I known how nutritious they were, I would have already incorporated them into my diet. The massive iron-rich protein found in lentils are great for cell growth and that includes your hair follicles. Our hair’s structure is from the hardened protein keratin and without enough protein, our hair grows slower and the hairs that are growing are not as strong.

According to the Iron Disorders Institute, the iron found in meat (heme iron”> is more easily absorbed by the body than iron-rich plant foods, so finding plant sources containing high iron like lentils is important. The folate in lentils is a B vitamin that helps your body to make new cells and strengthen and condition the hair. There are several types of lentils, and while all are packed with nutritional punch, hulled lentils (red and some black”> have less fiber than varieties with the hulls intact like green or brown lentils. The most common are the brown, black, and red. The green and yellow are probably the most easily obtainable for recipes.

Tips on cooking lentils

• They do not need to be pre-soaked.
• Simply pick over and remove debris, rinse, and strain. 
• They can be cooked in water or broth. 
• They should be liberally seasoned.
• Great for soups, stews and salads.

Do you incorporate lentils in your diet?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 22, 2014

A new movie is coming out titled, Pelo Malo, where a “beautific-looking” 9-year-old Venezuelan boy is struggling with the dilemma of wanting to straighten his curly hair for a school picture.  Simple, a child’s truth, but there is so much more to it in this heart-wrenching fable by Venezuelan director Mariana Rondón.  Race, class, gender and beauty issues are on display in this movie set on location in a poverty stricken Venezuelan neighborhood.  During a sensitive time in our own country in regards to race and class this movie may strike a chord with many who find themselves grappling with their own social demons.

Such a simple request…to have straight hair, causes a whole host of reactions including homophobic panic from his mother.  There is one visually poignant scene in which we see the child with half of his hair straightened (and he does look like a pretty girl”>, and the image is powerful as he stares at himself in the mirror and one must wonder what is going through his young mind. You may be able to think back to a time in your childhood or, for transitioners or new naturals, even a year ago, when you were facing yourself in the mirror and wondering who you were and why you look the way you do.  Looking into your soul is a personal and terrifying experience that can awaken the real person who lives inside and is dying to come out, especially in a disapproving family, relationship or world.

This coming of age tale of a boy and his simple request is enveloped in perceptions of beauty, gender, sexuality and class.  His father is black and his paternal-grandmother seems to welcome his freedom of expression, whereas his best friend wants him to look like a soldier and his mother just wants him to look like her son. They are each trying to help him in their own way, as many of our own friends and family have tried to do for us along our curly hair journeys. So much is expected of the young boy in a place where desolation is front and center, that wanting straight hair becomes more than a request and turns into a desire to be released from his surroundings.

Some may trivialize the significance of straightening one’s hair if they have not lived through it, but this film gives a glimpse into the tortured history of curly haired women and men who have struggled with self-acceptance.  I applaud the choice of the director to illustrate how race, gender, class and even age can be symbolized in the curve of a strand.

Pelo Malo is now showing in select cities, including:

• Santa Fe, Argentina
• Mexico City, Mexico
• San Diego, USA
• Miami, USA
• Houston, USA
• Madrid, Spain
• Rome, Italy
• Torino, Italy
• Vancouver, Canada

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 19, 2014

Remember soaking your nails in gelatin?

Contrary to a long-standing belief, WebMD says gelatin will not increase nail strength simply by eating or soaking your nails in it. Bad news for women wanting to strengthen their nails, but if you are looking for stronger hair then WebMD does say that gelatin can improve the quality of hair.

Gelatin for hair

Now there are several factors that determine the length and condition of your hair like genetics, diet, exercise, and even environmental elements. Aside from those, we can add supplements of various kinds to aid in hair growth and they do not have to all be pills. Gelatin is often used as a strengthener and growth aid in hair treatments utilizing the ingredient collagen. Gelatin is a protein substance derived from collagen, which can be found in tendons, ligaments, and the tissues of mammals. Madehow says that boiling the connective tissues, bones, and skins of cows and pigs is how gelatin is created. Gelatin usually has the ability to form strong, transparent gels.

If you take a look at your shampoo and conditioner labels you will likely find that they contain keratin in the form of gelatin, such as TRESemme Anti-Breakage Breakage Defense Shampooand TRESemme Anti-Breakage Vitamin B12 & Gelatin Conditioner. According to The Natural Haven, synchronized swimmers also use gelatin to keep hair from being displaced by the water and this process is called “Knoxing,” named after Knox Gelatin, which contains hydrolyzed proteins.

The matter of gelatin benefiting hair has been subject to debate, but we have seen and heard from curly community members that they find gelatin to improve the quality of their hair, so it’s worth a try to do one of these gelatin treatments and see how it affects you.

DIY Gelatin Protein Treatment

by Science-y Hair Blog

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup water
• 1 packet of Knox unflavored gelatin powder 
• 5 drops vinegar or a pinch of citric acid. Test for a pH around 5 to help the protein bond to your hair. 
• 1-3 drops of oil

Directions

1. Boil water.
2. Add acid to cool water and test pH of the cooled liquid.
3. Dissolve the gelatin in the boiling water, stirring constantly. Slowly add the water to reduce the potential for lumps. 
4. Add any add-ins, mixing thoroughly.

Note: Some people with fine or shorter hair use half the gelatin. If you find this recipe too strong, try halving the gelatin content.

Gelatin Hair Mask for Shinier, Stronger Hair

by Beauty Expert Julyne Derrick

Ingredients

• Half a packet of gelatin
• 2 Tbsp. of milk or water
• 2 Tbsp. hair conditioner (skip this if you have oily hair”>

Note: If you have super long or very thick hair, you can double this recipe.

Directions

1. Warm up the milk in the microwave or use warm water. 
2. Mix in gelatin. 
3. Allow it to sit for 15 min. and mix in the conditioner. Mixture should be like a thick gel.
4. Comb gel through wet hair from roots to ends (no need to shampoo hair, you’ll be doing that at the end”>. 
5. Add more milk or water if paste is too thick. 
6. Wrap hair in plastic and then a towel. Let hair dry for 30-40 min. 
7. Rinse hair and follow up with a shampoo.

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 16, 2014

The Benefits of Sweet Potatoes

Underappreciated and overlooked, this super-food is packed full of anti-inflammatory and blood sugar-reducing nutrients, fat-free, and is quite low in calories.  It is high in vitamins A, B6, C, D, and E while containing iron, zinc, copper, calcium, potassium, niacin and magnesium. Actually, the combination of vitamin C, vitamin E, and beta-carotene make this potato one heck of a “beauty food” due to all of those nutrients that contribute to a healthy, glowing complexion and vibrant tresses.

What is a Sweet Potato?

The sweet potato or lpomoea batatas is a dicotyledonous plant that belongs to the Convolvulaceae family. It is a large starch, lightly sweet tuberous root vegetable. According to Wikipedia, this orange-fleshed vegetable is one of nature’s unsurpassed sources of the antioxidant beta-carotene which our bodies turn into the much needed vitamin A. YouBeauty says beta-carotene is a group of natural chemicals known as carotenoids and numerous observational studies have found that people who consume more fruits and veggies rich in carotenoids have reduced risks of many chronic disease like cancer and cardiovascular disease.

How to Use It

For Dry Hair

Struggling with moisture? Sweet potato is your go-to! With all of those nutrients sweet potato provides massive nourishment to thirsty strands that is unmatched. The vitamin A will boost your scalp’s natural oils, so it seals the moisture and promotes hair growth while the Omega-3 fatty acids add luster by nourishing your hair follicles.

For Hair Loss

The beta-carotene that is converted into vitamin A (fat-soluble vitamin”> in our bodies is necessary for all cell growth, including hair growth. Vitamin A deficiency can lead to dull, dry, lifeless hair. Remember to not overdo it with the vitamin A, as too much can actually lead to hair loss.

Here are a few recipes that will keep those tresses moisturized, elastic, and strong well into the New Year!

Sweet Potato and Honey Hair Conditioner

by Twisted Poodle

Ingredients and tools

• 1 large sweet potato
• 1 cup of full fat yogurt
• 1 Tbsp. of honey
• 3 Tbsp. of coconut cream
• 2 drops of clove essential oil (more or less if desired”>
• 4 drops of vanilla essential oil (more or less if desired”>
• Double boiler

Directions

• Peel and cut the sweet potato.
• Boil  the sweet potato and add coconut cream to melt in a double boiler (or can melt in the microwave at 30 sec bursts”>.
• Drain sweet potatoes and whip in a food processor or hand-held beater.
• Pour in melted coconut cream, yogurt, honey, and blend until smooth.
• Add essential oils.
• Apply to your hair while the conditioner is still warm and then cover with a plastic cap and towel.
• Allow it to sit for 15 min. and rinse completely

Looking for a simpler recipe?  Here’s one that will have you in and out of the shower in no time!

Sweet Potato Hair Conditioner

by Shape

Ingredients

• ½ plain large sweet potato cooked and mashed
• 3 Tbsp. honey
• ¼ cup plain yogurt (any percent fat works”>

Directions

Combine everything and apply to damp hair. Put on a plastic shower cap and wait 20 min. before rinsing off with tepid water.

Have you used sweet potato on your hair?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 16, 2014

BeUnique Moisture Custard

What is Illipe Butter?

It becomes a pale yellow, solid fat after extraction with a chemical composition that parallels cocoa butter with a lightly higher melting point. Illipe butter contains oleic, palmitic, steric, and linoleic acids. It is a hard butter that melts when in contact with skin.

How to Use It

According to My Green Australia, illipe butter is used for various skin care preparations such as nourishing night creams, sun products, hair masks, make-up foundations, soaps, and lip balms. It is also recommended to heal sores, mouth ulcers, and reinforce the skin lipidic barrier while helping maintain skin moisturization.

The Benefits

This is a great product to keep your dry hair and skin at bay during the colder months. Excellent in soaps for doing just that since it is a long-lasting moisturizer. Very popular in lip treatments, you can find small amounts of it added to numerous products and it can be used as a pure 100% lip balm. It acts as a shield from the harsh outside elements and drying inside temperatures by keeping your lips moist.

With such a magnificent chemical composition it only makes sense it would also be an advantage to healthy hair care. For years this butter has been used for skin and hair because of its incredible moisturizing properties. Illipe butter will restore elasticity to dry, over-processed (by chemicals or color”> tresses and is quite popular as a hair mask ingredient. According to eHow, there are quite a few products on the market already using this beneficial butter but if adding to hair treatments the recommended percentage added should be in the 2 to 5% range.

Products

Here are some popular products using illipe butter to give your hair elasticity and moisture.

• Curly Kinks Twist Whip
• Jane Carter Solution Nourish & Shine 
• Pura Body Naturals Cupuacu Hair Butter 
• MarieDean Yogurt Smoothy Cream
• Entwine ‘Indulgently Luxe’ Exotique Butter Creme Hydrator
• BeUnique Moisture Custard

 Do you like illipe butter?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 13, 2014

Now, no one is pushing you to start making homemade concoctions and selling them at your doorstep, but even if you are mixing simple items, you will need some form of preservative for your mixtures to avoid spoilage. According to Livestrong, “Preservatives are substances, natural or synthetic, that help keep foods fresh looking and tasting longer and prevent them from rotting or deteriorating too quickly.” Since many of our mixes tend to contain water, peptides, and carbohydrates, they can create a breeding ground for microbes.

Commercial products tend to be formulated with preservatives so they remain fresh for long periods between manufacturing to consumer use. These preservatives are necessary to extend the longevity of the products but some have been affiliated with skin rashes, allergies, and even some cancers. This is one of the many reasons many often prefer steering clear of synthetic preservatives but like all things, it is not that simple. Synthetic preservatives allow products to last longer when compared to natural preservatives.

There is a slight reprieve for mixtresses who refuse to use preservatives, synthetic and natural.  Avoiding water in your mixture extends the life of your product greatly because anything with water is less likely to have a good shelf life. DIY products like balms, waxes, and oils fall under this category as they will have little to no water. Of course most formulations we love and need for our tresses will have water as one of the first five ingredients! For that reason preservatives are a must, and if synthetic preservatives are not something you want to use then you may need to consider natural preservatives.

Natural preservatives sound like a logical choice for most but they will not keep your products as long as synthetic preservatives and there is still some controversy concerning their effectiveness. The best way to utilize them successfully would be adding natural preservatives to small quantities of your mixtures to ensure they get used in a short amount of time and stave off spoilage and microbes. Here are some great natural preservatives that are safe for your tresses and will aid in fighting off bacteria and spoilage.

Grapefruit Seed Oil

Grapefruit seed extract is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, disinfectant, and preservative. It is a powerhouse and a study from The Journal of Alternative and Complementary Medicine found it was effective in killing over “800 bacterial and viral strains, 100 strains of fungus, and a large number of single and multi-celled parasites.” This is used by many mixtresses when creating products with water.

Lemon Juice

Lemons produce an acid that promotes preservation. It contains plenty of vitamin C (also known as ascorbic acid and a powerful antioxidant that prevents spoilage and rotting”>. Lemon juice is similar to salt by drawing out the water content and balancing the pH factor and natural acids in foods.

Germaben II

This ready-to-use and convenient broad spectrum anti-microbial preservative is great for shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and creams. It is a clear, viscous liquid with a mild odor. From Nature with Love says it is highly effective against gram positive and gram negative bacteria, yeasts, and molds.

Liquid Germall Plus

Liquid germall plus is another broad spectrum preservative that is highly efficacious and ready to use for personal care formulations. It is a water-soluble preservative for oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, and water soluble formulations. According to Hair Recipes, it is highly effective against gram positive bacteria, gram negative bacteria, molds, and yeasts. It is also compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. A great choice for shampoos, conditioners, lotions, creams, body sprays, and body washes.

Rosemary Extract

This extract acts like a natural antioxidant and a powerful preservative. With its anti-microbial composition that contains carnosic and rosmaranic acid, it acts like a shield to decay. Livestrong says this potent natural preservative will extend the shelf life of your creams and lotions.

Vitamin E

There are conflicting opinions on vitamin E being an effective preservative, but it truly deserves the right to sit at the preservative table with the big boys. Companies that use it for mixed tocopherols as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants are investigating Vitamin E. A chemist from Crunchy Betty says that when added to oils, vitamin E will prolong the shelf life of oil otherwise exposed to oxygen causing oxidation. According to Simply-Eden, vitamin E is an anti-oxidant but feel because it only helps to prolongs the shelf life and not actually preserve the mixture it should not be added with water-based products.

Which preservative do you use? 

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 3, 2014

Caffeine in its purest form is a white crystalline powder that is extremely bitter and stimulates the central nervous system. How Stuff Works says caffeine is present in over 60 plants and it can be found in coffee beans, tea leaves, and kola nuts, and 90% of adults use caffeine in one form or another. According to News-Medical, the FDA classifies caffeine as both a drug and a food additive and you can find scores of information on just how bad it is. Despite all of the bad press caffeine gets, it has some amazing qualities too.

So, this makes you want to up your caffeine intake by just downing a few glasses of iced tea or a couple of cups of coffee, right? Unfortunately, to obtain an adequate dose for those types of results requires around 50 to 60 cups a day and that is not an option, but applying it topically through hair products is. There are two reasons topical applications may be the more beneficial route.

Topical application would allow you to obtain a higher dosage than waiting for it to enter your bloodstream through eating and drinking. Topical applications allow for the higher dosage without the side effects that can occur from high-dose caffeine ingestion. Here are three popular shampoos with caffeine because simply cleansing your hair with them is not enough. The shampoo must stay on your scalp for at least a couple of minutes because it takes a while for the caffeine to penetrate to the hair roots and produce an effect.

• Thicker Fuller Hair Revitalizing Shampoo 
• PROGANIX Volume Root Boost Finish + Body Builder 
• Garnier Fructis Fall Fight Fortifying Shampoo For Falling, Breaking Hair 

If this is not the route you choose to take then you can add some liquid caffeine to your own shampoo as an alternative. Caffeine Informer says another way to gain the benefits is very similar to what I do with my hair tea. Pour cold brewed coffee over your freshly washed hair and allow it to sit on hair for at least five minutes and then continue with your conditioning. When it comes to hair growth, it appears that the benefits of topical applications far any benefit from ingesting caffeine. Drink your morning cup and know it is helping you in other ways than hair growth, and if you want a more concentrated effect then the topical route is the one to take.

Do you use products with caffeine in them?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published December 2, 2014

Naturally curly hair requires dedication and knowledge so it is not uncommon for women with curls, coils, and waves to go the extra mile for their hair. The earth is scavenged for knowledge on everything from our own hair structure to the best conditioner for our hair’s porosity. Gone are the days of guessing or just believing claims on the product packaging. Doing your research is a significant component of healthy hair care and knowing how the products are benefiting your hair is just as important as what you choose to add to your hair.

Natural oils are essential to healthy coily, curly, and wavy hair. Cleansing dehydrates curls, so when you are washing your strands you are allowing your hair shaft to open up and remove buildup along with nutrients and natural oils. This is why many curlies, wavies, and coilies choose to co-wash or even take the water-only hair washing route as a means to avoid excessive dryness.

Carrier oils harbor numerous benefits from head to toe, and although we hear this on most hair care sites, what exactly is in that oil that brings so many advantages to your tresses? Yes, it is easier to just stick with the basics, but once you break down what makes up these natural oils it can be confusing. A perfect example would be any term with the word acid, as all acids are not created equal.

Oleic acid 

Linoleic acid

For an expert source I tapped on the shoulder of our very own Sister Scientist and she shared some insight about these two amazing acids, “Oleic and linoleic acid are saturated fatty acids that a make up the backbone of many of the natural oils and sebum. As standalone ingredients, they still have properties to condition the hair and skin and help to unblock pores on the scalp. As long they are added at an efficacious amount and are stable enough to not oxidize inside of the formulation, they can serve a purpose for the hair and scalp.”

Oleic and linoleic acid are saturated fatty acids that a make up the backbone of many of the natural oils and sebum.

Oleic acid (also called Omega-9″> is an acid our bodies can create whenever it has a caloric surplus, but linoleic acid (also called Omega-6″> is an essential fatty acid that our bodies need but cannot create. Oleic acid and linoleic acid are different fatty acids but both are assets to our strands. Linoleic acid stimulates hair growth, maintains a healthy scalp conditions, and will control water loss in your hair. Oleic acid will also control water loss in your strands while making your hair softer and more pliable. Blogger Minimalist Beauty categorizes more oils that are high in oleic acid and high in linoleic acid:

• Higher in oleic acid: shea nut oil, sweet almond oil, and palm fruit oil.
• Higher in linoleic acid: rose hip seed oil, soybean oil, and hemp seed oil.

Do you use any of these oils for your hair and scalp?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 26, 2014

These clays are born of the earth, and as we love using what the earth has to offer, clays never disappoint. In recent years they are becoming popular but many cultures throughout our history have been using clays to heal and rid their bodies of toxins. According to Wellness Mama, there are animals that will even eat dirt and clay to remove poisons from their systems during illness and distress. They are natural, potent, and mineral-rich to clean, detoxify, and condition our hair and skin. If you are new to them do not worry, as I am about to share some of the plentiful benefits for your hair, body, and even wallet!

Affordable

Most clays are inexpensive and the pricey clays tend to be harder to access. Once such clay would be the Dead Sea clay aka black mud. Harvested from the banks of the Dead Sea, it is hard to find any that is 100% Dead Sea mud so you pay more in comparison to other clays. Clays like rhassoul and bentonite can run you around $6 to $15 for a 1lb jar. A little goes a long way, as it has great shelf life and is usually mixed with water and aloe vera juice for application.

Availability

Now, nearly all products are accessible because of the internet! You can find just about anything anywhere with a Google search. Amazon.com, Etsy, and sites are making even the most remote product available to every consumer, but if online shopping is not your preference, then just going to your local Whole Foods or Sprouts will garner a wealth of products formulated with clays.

Detoxifying

Clays rid the body of toxins. Bentonite clay has the ability to produce an electric charge when hydrated and that charge gives it the ability to absorb toxins, heavy metals, impurities, and even chemicals. Bentonite clay is amazing at pulling heavy metals and toxins from the body with the montmorillonite that come in two forms: sodium and calcium. Both use the negative charge in attract and attach to the toxins and heavy metals. This clay is almost like a magnet to toxins.

Natural

If you oppose to using non-natural cleaning methods, then clay or mud are an excellent way to steer clear of them. Wikipedia says that clays have been used for thousands of years and the first recorded use of a medicinal clay was in 200 B. C in Mesopotamia. They are from this earth, natural, potent, mineral-rich and made with ingredients most can pronounce.

Prevent hair loss

Dead Sea clay, among others can be extremely beneficial for preventing hair loss. Heredity, stress, and even scalp conditions can be attributed to hair loss by the blood vessels in the hair follicles that shrink and cut off food and oxygen. According to Livestrong, Dead Sea mud contains manganese, which is a mineral that increases blood flow, so merely massaging Dead Sea clay or mud into your scalp and let sit for ten minutes will improve the health of your scalp.

Most healing clays and mud have amazing benefits for your skin and hair. Clay washing is affordable, natural, and easily accessible. Whether you DIY or buy pre-made bars with clay in them you will walk away feeling like you stumbled across something great.

How do you incorporate clays in your hair care regimen?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 24, 2014

“Rinse-Only” hair washing

One unorthodox method of hair care that is growing in popularity is the water-only hair washing. It is also called rinse-only, as you wash solely with water. Despite the simplicity of the act there are some slight variations. Some simply use the water and their fingertips while others add a boar brush, but the premise is the same with cleansing with water and working with your sebum instead of working against it.

Why just water?

Many shampoos strip the very essence of our hair’s natural oils and our scalp tries to correct this by overproducing sebum. According to the Science of Acne, sebum is a naturally occurring substance produced by the sebaceous glands, which moisturize, lubricate, and protect our skin and hair. The method of water only washing is eliminating cleansers so that your hair will stop overproducing sebum and your scalp’s natural pH will rebalance.

For centuries, women in China, Japan, and Southeast Asia have used rice water to wash and rinse their hair.

Despite the recent surge in attention from naturals, curlies, coilies, and minimalists, this form of washing dates back hundreds of years. Dr. Margaret Trey says that “For centuries, women in China, Japan, and Southeast Asia have used rice water to wash and rinse their hair.” Rice water has amazing benefits for hair like decreasing friction and improving hair’s elasticity. It can also protect against and repair hair damage. Hair Buddha says, “Our ancestors used brushes and hot water to cleanse their bodies and hair, as they did not have all the advanced products we now use and take for granted.”

True water only washing means no use of any product. The hair is washed with fingertips vigorously under warm or lukewarm water to break up and remove all the dirt from your hair and scalp. The boar bristle brush is used to spread the sebum from the roots to the ends to help facilitate moisturizing, protect the hair, and remove dust and dirt from the scalp and hair.

What about grease?

There is a greasy period where the scalp is learning to produce less sebum and your hair may not look the best but if you are co-washing regularly, then you know there was a period of getting used to that as well. Many women cover their head with scarves, bandanas, hats, or keep hair braided while weaning their hair off shampoo. This period can last anywhere from two to six weeks before the scalp balances itself out.

American Board Certified Hair Colorist and licensed cosmetologist Monae Everett has a different view of water washing. First off, she calls it water rinsing and not washing, as the technique breaks up the dirt and oil but does not actually remove it. As a professional in the field of hair care and beauty, Ms. Everett believes in more traditional methods on cleansing with the use of shampoos but can understand not everyone may subscribe to that means.

Ms. Everett does see how this technique can be attractive to some and even beneficial when trying to discover your natural curl pattern. Oftentimes products we use can mask our true pattern, but rinsing with only water can give a clearer reading on your own hair. Water rinsing allows an individual to find out your personal hair needs like how your hair responds to external elements and pollutants and how often to cleanse and condition. If you try this method for a few weeks to better understand your hair’s needs, then this may be beneficial in the long run for learning what your hair needs to retain moisture and combat breakage.

The perfect cleansing routine for you

Ms. Everett discusses a way someone may try this method on a trial basis:

A smart way to incorporate this in your cleansing routine would be to water rinse (wash”> for a few weeks. This is the time for you to see your natural curl pattern and discover what your tresses feel and look like. Then, go onto trying an apple cider vinegar rinse to remove any excessive buildup and balance the pH of your hair. They could also instead try shampooing once a month and slowly increase to find the perfect cleansing routine that gives you healthy, moisturized hair.

Is water washing something you may want to try? Are you already addicted?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 20, 2014

For most of human history, men have had beards since forever. As tools were refined, the development of the razor came into existence and birthed shaving. Fast forward to today and men shave for various reasons: fashion, cleanliness, religion, employer or career demands, or to attract a mate. The rudimentary razor has given way to many brands, styles, techniques, and purposes but for some men choosing which would better suit them is a limited affair.

Men with curly hair are usually subject to basic shaving utensils, as most are engineered for the straight-haired man. If you think that is not an issue, then you would be sadly surprised. Curly or coily-haired men find shaving to be a battle and chore, because shaved hair follicles tend to curve back, re-enter the skin, and cause irritation and razor bumps when you are not using the right products or technique.

My Brotha says that 50 to 80% of black men live with the problem of ingrown hair, whiteheads, and razor bumps daily. This is more than an inconvenience because razor bumps can itch, burn, create scarring, and make the entire experience dreadful. This has caused some men to tweeze their ingrown hairs (which can be painful”> or rely on depilatory creams, which tend to work better than razors but if used incorrectly they can irritate the skin and become absorbed into the blood stream.

I was shocked when I found this information, but when I began to reflect on my father’s and husband’s shaving problems, it dawned on me that these problems needed a solution. Many men suffer in silence but there is no need to any longer. We have the top three shaving kits that cater to men with coarse, curly and coily hair. This is the perfect time, as the holidays are upon us and any one of these would be the perfect gift under the tree!

Bevel Shaving System

The Bevel shaving system is a 5-part system to reduce razor bumps and give a less painful shave. The Bevel razor is unique, as it was engineered for coarse and curly hair and made with safety razors that cut only at the hairs’ level for a more comfortable and closer shave without the tugging, pulling, or irritation. This razor will not clog, and will put an end to discoloration and scarring that so many men have become accustomed to. It comes with a priming oil to protect, a badger brush to lift the hairs, specifically formulated shave cream, double-edge safety razor, and a restoring balm.

SheaMoisture African Black Soap Shaving Kit

This system has a focus to cure and correct. Their collection has blends of certified organic shea butter and African black soap with the anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties of tea tree oil. This helps to heal and rejuvenate the skin with each and every shave. This system has moisturizing butters that will soothe ingrown hairs and prevent razors bumps and burns. This collection includes the following shaving products: soap, shave brush, anti-aging moisturizer and bump preventer, shave creme, after shave, skin protector, and lotion. 

Black Opal Anti-bump Shave System

This shaving system promises to banish razor bumps and give the shaver a renewed confidence in his skin and looks. It is a 3-part system with the Anti-Bump Cleanser, Anti-Bump Shave Gel, and Anti-Bump Treatment. The system was created to clear up razor bumps and prevent ingrown hairs from forming with the effective exfoliating micro-beads that remove dead skin cells to prevent ingrown hairs. It claims to soften the beard hair for a more painless shave and the fast acting formula fights bacteria and reduces inflammation.

Does your father, brother, or significant other struggle with razor bumps, ingrown hair, and irritation?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published November 19, 2014

Remember the infamous Jheri Curl? (Of course you do”>. Well Jheri Curl could not have been the sensation that it became without one necessary component: curl activators. Jheri curls are a chemical relaxing system that was created by Jheri Redding who was a hairdresser, chemist, and hair care product entrepreneur. It became hugely popular when Comer Cottrell made it available to the masses in the early 70’s. The Jheri Curl could not be what it was without the curl activator that was necessary to keep the hair moist. Curl activator died down around the 90’s but there seems to be a resurgence of it and some naturals are loving it. The reason being is the main ingredients in curl activators are humectants, which is often glycerin. We love glycerin! Some activators are also formulated with another one of our favorites, aloe vera.

Top 10 Co-Washes and Cleansing Conditioners