Search Results: Sabrina Perkins
It was not long ago when people were unfamiliar with good alcohols. The perception was that all alcohols are drying to one’s tresses. When the natural hair revolution exploded, we became educated on what our hair actually needed. It is no secret that our hair needs different care than our straight-haired sisters. Becoming educated on the ingredients in hair products is essential in keeping them moisturized, healthy, and strong. You save time and money when product trial and error consistently fail. Now, before we assume, I will explain the difference between good and bad alcohol.
Are All Alcohols Bad For Hair?
No, they are not, and it is good that people are beginning to learn the differences. Doing a little layman’s research is all it takes, but we know you want the 411 on them, so we decided to become super sleuths and do the work for you. For curlies, most short-chained alcohols are considered bad, as they have very few carbon atoms in their backbones, meaning they are liquids that can act as solvents and dissolve the natural protective oils in your skin and hair.
So-called “Bad” Alcohols
I call them so-called bad because they can have limited benefits for curlies. Short-chain alcohols are often used in some hair products for their drying effect. They evaporate quickly, which may be helpful in some regard, but that drying can whisk away the moisture that your hair needs. It appears they are ideal for looser textures like wavy hair and may be used sparingly for tighter textures. They are also used in styling products to ensure proper spreading of the products onto the hair.
- Ethanol alcohol
- Ethyl alcohol
- Propanol alcohol
- Alcohol denat.
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Isopropanol alcohol
- Benzyl alcohol
All of these alcohols have similar functions. In shampoos and conditioners, these alcohols primarily help to mix oil and water and are sometimes antiseptic. These small-chain alcohols are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft and are often the culprit for frizz. Isopropyl alcohol is used to absorb other substances into the hair follicles and is a common ingredient in hair color rinses and the absorption of dyes. Believe it or not, this is a home remedy for removing head lice; some loc wearers use it for that, too.
Good Alcohols
Have you heard of fatty alcohol? Sure you have if you have visited a curly hair care site within the past two years! Fatty alcohols or long-chain alcohols are derived from fat (usually from coconut or palm oil), and they do not act like ethanol or isopropanol.
They have 12 more carbons per molecule, and this higher carbon count tends to make them oilier, which is why they are called fatty.
Read more: All About Alcohols
- Cetyl alcohol
- Cetearyl alcohol
- Stearyl alcohol
- Lauryl alcohol
Image Source: @rizoscurls
These are definitely beneficial to curly hair as they do the following:
- Add moisture by drawing water into the hair
- Add slip for detangling
- Add thickness to a product
They are emulsifiers that aid in mixing water and oil in conditioners and help spread conditioner more easily over the hair.
Alcohols can be used to penetrate the hair shaft, and although they are surfactants, they do not properly cleanse the hair. They tend to be found more in the top five ingredients of daily conditioners and deep conditioners and act as an oily moisturizer that will give your hair a smoother, softer feel by helping the hair cuticle lie flat.
Conclusion
Short-chain alcohols are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft but tend to be drying for textured hair. They are used in some shampoos and conditioners for the product’s spreadability. Because they can allow other substances to be absorbed into the hair follicles, they are common ingredients in color rinses and hair dyes. Fatty alcohols or long-chain alcohols are derived from natural resources like coconut oil and are too big to penetrate the hair shaft.
Their larger carbon makeup causes them to be oily, so they are mostly used for emollients in hair conditioners and deep conditioners. They aid in detangling by giving a product more slip and helping the water and oil mix and not separate in some products. They both serve a purpose, and even the bad ones need not be used sparingly for specific styles. Seeing the full picture should allow you to make better hair ingredient choices and keep your tresses moisturized and healthy.
If you’re still looking to skip using alcohol in your products, check out our list of alcohol-free mousses you can use on your curls, coils, and waves.
Hair porosity does not receive the same attention as other hair characteristics like length or curl pattern, but it is essential to truly understand your texture.
Porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, oils, or chemicals like color. Low, medium, and high are different degrees of porosity. Due to damaging habits such as mechanical manipulation and color treatment, many naturals deal with high porosity hair.
Why porosity matters
Low Porosity – the hair cuticles are tight and resistant to opening for water and other forms of moisture. Women with low porosity often complain of products merely “sitting on their hair.”
If your hair has low porosity, check out the Maximum Hydration Method for moisturizing your hair.
Medium (Normal) Porosity – the hair cuticles are raised enough to readily absorb moisture, oils, and chemicals. Normal porosity hair tends to hold moisture, shine, and absorb color and chemicals better than low or high-porosity strands.
High Porosity – the hair cuticle that is highly raised or even chipped and, therefore, quickly absorbs moisture. The downside is that because it’s raised and remains raised, you can lose the moisture just as quickly as it was absorbed. This hair type is often damaged by harsh chemicals, dyes or bleach, high heat, or harsh shampoos that strip the hair. Because the cuticles are aggressively raised, the strands catch onto each other and become easily tangled.
5 Ways to Treat High Porosity Hair
1. Protein treatments
Incorporating protein treatments in your regimen is important for high-porosity hair to gain strength and not break as frequently. Often, highly porous hair results from damage, so if you haven’t incorporated protein, it’s time to start. Highly porous hair has holes in the hair shaft; protein temporarily fills those holes and strengthens the hair. It’s like patching a tire. Protein treatments are usually advised to be used monthly. For an extra boost, you can also use light protein treatments every few weeks in between the monthly heavy protein treatment. Remember that protein is not a moisturizer and should not be treated as such.
2. Deep conditioning
This should be done following every wash. Remember to slather on generous amounts and heat it! If you do not have a hooded dryer, do not fret. Covering your hair with a plastic cap or a warm towel for 15 minutes will suffice. I often leave my deep conditioner on overnight and rinse in the morning. Find a thick, deep conditioner like SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque. I love this because it really brings my hair back to life.
3. Sealing with butters or oils
Butters and oils can help seal in the moisture that your hair soaks up without releasing it back to the air. Shea butter and olive oil are both heavy and great for sealing. Since olive oil is one of the few oils that penetrate the hair shaft, this would be a great option to use as a sealant.
4. Using heavier products with natural oils
Heavy products will reinforce your sealing from the butter or oil and help compensate for the missing protective layer. Check the ingredients label of your products to see if heavy oils like olive, castor, or avocado oil are listed in the top five ingredients.
5. Apple cider vinegar and aloe vera
If your hair is too fine or doesn’t respond well to heavy oils and butters, try apple cider vinegar (ACV) and aloe vera. Both ACV and aloe vera will work to adjust the pH balance of your hair. Rinsing with the slightly acidic ACV will help flatten the cuticle and seal in the moisture. Some naturals add aloe vera gel or aloe vera juice to their leave-in conditioners or spray bottle solutions.
This article was originally published March 2014 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.
Most curlies, wavies, and naturals are terrified of getting their hair cut because there are so many horror stories. Even if you don’t have one, you have heard tear-filled testimonies describing the disastrous cuts they have received under the care of some stylist who is not-so-qualified or inexperienced with curly hair. Curly hair is not like straight hair, so when stylists try to use the same techniques, the result is uneven, chopped up, unnatural cuts that look like your 4-year-old niece took matters into her own hands. Cutting wet curly hair does not allow the stylist to see where your curls will naturally fall, so having your curls cut in this state will not allow you or the stylist to see the true desired shape.
The Relationship Between Curlies + Haircuts
An alternative to stylists who prefer to or primarily style straight hair is the curly salons that chop into your hair using carving and slicing techniques that are supposed to debulk or thin out your hair. These high-priced techniques deform the curl structure and make your ends frizzy and ripped. You end up with fishhook strands, and it grows out horrible! This is the main reason many natural, curlies, and wavies have begun doing their trims and cuts, and although we do a great job, it’s nothing like going to a professional and getting the royal treatment and the perfect cut. If you are dying for a new style and have no clue what to do, you may want to try the DevaCut.
Image Source: @kait_touch_this
What is a Devacut?
The DevaCut was created by the Devachan Salon and is a special technique for cutting curly, wavy or coily hair. The cut is more about making each curl look its best and not just a way to “tame” the curls. The cut is created on dry hair so the stylist sees how each curl will fall and how each curl is shaped. You determined your style after you consulted with your stylist before the cutting process. Don’t fret if you aren’t in NYC, where the Devachan Salon is, because you can find salons and the DevaCut throughout the US through My Deva Curl. You can use our Salon Finder if you want to read reviews of certain stylists and salons from other curlies.
The cut is primarily for women who have a some sort of curl definition and wear wash and go’s
Image Source: @wandamulzac
Women seeking a DevaCut are strongly advised to consider that the cut is primarily for women with some curl definition and wear wash-and-gos. Because the average curly has more than one texture, cutting the hair in a dry, wash-and-go state allows the stylist to see how the various textures naturally fall and mold the desired shape. If you frequently wear your hair in stretched styles (e.g., twist outs, braid out, flat iron), then this method may not be the best option because there is a likelihood that your shape will be uneven in a stretched state. If you are a wash and go curly or coily, straightening before cutting may not be the best option because when the hair shrinks, the integrity of the shape may be compromised.
If you feel that a DevaCut is not for Type 4 hair, this is not true for all Type 4 textures. Erica showcases a transformation for a client at CrosscoSalon in Plano, Texas, where she defined her Type 4 or Z-pattern texture.
Image Source: @crosscosalon
If you are newly natural or new to being a wash and go curly or natural, I highly suggest mastering your technique before receiving a DevaCut. For some people, wash and go’s do not wash and go, so mastering the technique where you are satisfied with the results is a great base before receiving a cut.
Are you considering a DevaCut? Have you received a DevaCut? What was your experience?
All protein treatments are not created equal, despite whatever the packaging may tell you. Curly, coily, and wavy hair relies on a perfect balance of oils, nutrients, moisture, and proteins. Proteins are large molecules consisting of amino acids that our bodies and cells need to function properly, according to the Owner of Medical News Today, Christian Nordqvist. Proteins play a role in virtually every biological process, including hair. Keratin, which hair is made of, is a strong protein that can break down with sun exposure, wind, pollutants, daily maintenance, manipulation, heat tools, and chemical treatments like permanent color. This is where protein treatments help temporarily repair the hair strands rather than just using a standard repairing treatment.
Image Source: @hairbytashi
Protein treatments add strength and resiliency to damaged hair by attaching hydrolyzed proteins directly to the hair follicle and hardening the cuticle layer. If there are holes in the hair cuticle, it will fill those holes or gaps while also placing a barrier around the hair shaft to lessen further damage. Most protein treatments are conditioning treatments. They can come to be a deep conditioner, light, or reconstructor (heavy). Several types cater to your specific needs, but we came up with the top eight that will give you the best treatment for even the worst type of damage.
Read more: 20 Protein Free Hair Products for Protein-Sensitive Hair
1. ApHogee Intensive Two Minute Keratin Reconstructor
You almost cannot discuss protein treatments without mentioning ApHogee. Water, emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, and hydrolyzed proteins make up this hugely popular protein treatment to prevent breakage and lessen split ends while protecting the hair and the body. It is a concentrated blend of keratin amino acids, oils, and vitamins for bleached, tinted, or chemically straightened strands.
2. Aphogee Two-step Treatment Protein for Damaged Hair
Another favorite of curly girls, this two-step treatment will rebuild the hair structure with its unique formula of magnesium and modified proteins. A powerful protein treatment will restore your hair’s elasticity while softening those brittle and dry strands damaged by chemical services and heat. It even helps to remove mineral deposits from swimming pools and hard water.
3. Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor Oil Protein Conditioner
Another favorite, and for good reason, this Black Castor Oil Protein Conditioner will feed your hair with a nutrient-rich formula that will rehydrate and strengthen your damaged strands. This quality treatment restores your hair’s softness, manageability, and shine.
4. Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask
A deep conditioning protein treatment, Briogeo Don’t Despair gets much love from curly girls. This intensive deep conditioning treatment delivers an optimal blend of nutrients, vitamins, and natural oils that restore and replenish damaged strands with 95% naturally derived ingredients. This mask does not contain parabens, phthalates, sulfates, artificial fragrances, dyes, or gluten.
5. Creme of Nature Argan Oil Intensive Conditioning Treatment
This reconstructor by Crème of Nature is an intensive moisture infuser that strengthens and prevents further hair breakage. Hair is left softer, silkier, and full of body. Perfect for color-treated or chemically-straightened hair.
6. SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque
Utilizing ingredients like Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Shea Butter, Peppermint, and Keratin this mask can help restore and grow deeply damaged hair in less than an hour. This mask should be a go-to if you have experienced the backlash of over-straightening and chemical treatment to provide your hair with what it needs to bounce back.
7. tgin Miracle RepaiRx Curl Protein Reconstructor
If you’re looking for a restorative protein treatment to strengthen hair from the inside out, look no further than the Miracle RepaiRx CPR protein treatment. This miracle formula promotes hair growth and a healthy scalp by helping reduce breakage, shedding, and preventing split ends. This can be used over 4 to 6 weeks and can be used on wigs, weaves, and extensions.
8. Ouidad Deep Treatment Curl Restoration Therapy
The Ouidad Deep Treatment Curl Restoration Therapy is an intensive conditioner that restores curl hydration, shine, and health to your strands. Added heat from wearing a processing plastic cap, mixed with the proteins and amino acids drive this formula deep into the hair’s cuticle for serious rejuvenation. Gain bounce, luster, and highly conditioned curls.
Before using a protein treatment, ensure you understand how they can work in your hair.
Read more: How to Fix Protein Build-Up
Locs are beautiful. They are chic, hot, and regal, and no matter how you wear them, they draw attention to you. Many are noticing how versatile they are as people get creative with color and accessories to jazz them up. Locs have continued to gain mainstream appeal with celebrities like Chloe and Halle Bailey, and Megan Good sporting them in an array of styles. They have versatile styling options just like loose natural hair whether you want to create space buns, ponytails, or cornrows. As we’re inching into the holiday season, the updo is going to take center stage which means it’s time to get creative with your locs.
Take a look at these 10 stunning and easy-loc updos that we find perfect for casual wear and special occasions.
1. Braided Loc Bun
2. Elegant Fall Hairstyle Updo
3. CrissCross Bun Updo
4. 1940’s Loc Updo
5. High Top Layered Bun Ponytail
6. Simple Goddess Loc Updo
7. Loc Updo With Flexi Rods
8. High Ponytail With Side Swoop
9. Sleek Bun
10. Braided Updo
Interested in finding the best way to style your locs? Check out our article “Best Products for Locs” to help you out.
Pictured: SimplyCyn
While many curly, coily, and wavy girls still look to hair texture or curl pattern as a guide on hair products, knowing your hair’s porosity is a far more important indicator on how to care for your hair. Hair porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and hold onto moisture. There are three types: low, medium and high, and each have its challenges. While it seems rather simple to understand, there is confusion on how to figure out your hair’s porosity and what products and techniques may be ideal for your hair. Today we are going to delve into mishaps to avoid when caring for low porosity hair. Not sure what your hair type is? Take our quiz to learn your porosity.What is low porosity hair?
Low porosity means your hair strands have a tightly bound cuticle layer that lays flat and tends to repel water. Depending on your texture, low porosity hair can be shiny and tends to be stubborn with chemical processes. If your hair is low porosity it can become high porosity over time with more mechanical, thermal, and chemical damage, so moderation and trims are important. Here are a few things to remember on what not to do if you have low porosity hair.1. Do not forgo shampoo
Low porosity hair is more prone to product buildup. Solely using cleansing conditioners or co-washing more than shampoo may not be the best regimen for low porosity hair. If you figure you have low porosity hair and suffer from buildup, try a clarifying shampoo and incorporate shampoos over co-washing to see if that makes a difference. Also, shampoo slightly opens the cuticle for optimal deep conditioning after so do not rely on co-washing. Read more: Top 30 Sulfate-Free Shampoos2. Don’t skip the heat with your conditioners
Holding onto moisture is not the issue but getting it in is. Try using heat caps and hooded dryers for deep conditioner. They are great tools to help certain ingredients adsorb onto the hair shaft and makes your curls, coils, and waves feel softer.3. Don’t use leave-in conditioners too often
Traditional leave-in conditioners are usually formulated with proteins to help strengthen the hair cuticle, so your hair might become stiff from protein overload. Consider using or alternating your leave-in conditioner with a lightweight moisturizer or hair milk with humectants for soft curls, coils, and waves between wash days. Read more: Avoid Protein Overdose with These Protein-free Moisturizers4. Don’t use heavy butters and oils
Thick butters and oils are too heavy for low porosity hair, especially for those with fine strands. Thick products accumulate quickly, causing product buildup up that leads to dryness, especially with multiple applications between wash days. If you like sealing your hair at the end of your regimen and refreshing your hair through the week, then consider light oils and light refreshers to rejuvenate your curls. Read more Top 15 Products for Low Porosity Hair How to Moisturize Your Stubborn, Low Porosity Hair This article has been updated for grammar and clarity.
Curly, coily, and wavy girls always have to be on the hunt for the hacks that help maintain their natural texture. A nighttime routine is vital to ensuring you maintain frizz-free and tangle-free tresses while preventing the moisture from whisking away while you sleep. I have been keeping satin or silk scarves in my hair arsenal all my life. It is a well-known fact black women tie up their hair at night whether relaxed or natural. Scarves keep hairstyles intact, smooth, and ready for morning styling.
Satin and silk scarves, bonnets, and pillowcases help keep your curls frizz free and full of volume while you sleep. The bottom line is satin or silk is the only way to go for nighttime care but which of the two is actually better? Satin or silk?
Image: @daynabolden
What is silk?
Silk is an animal protein fiber produced by certain types of insects for building cocoons and webs. Creepy right? Who would imagine something so refined and beautiful would come from bugs, but it is true and fascinating. According to Today I Found Out, larvae produce silk and although many insects produce silk, the mulberry silk moth is the main insect used for the commercial silk industry. Silk is breathable, comfortable, one of the softest fabrics, and highly prized material.
What is satin?
Satin is actually a weave and not a natural fiber like silk. Fiber is the actual thread from which the material is made and weave is how you make it. Traditionally, satin will have both a glossy side and a dull side. It is made using combinations of other fabrics like nylon, rayon, polyester, and even silk. A popular stain is charmeuse, which is a man-made luxury fabric (polyester) from finely woven material.
The differences between silk and satin
The biggest difference between the two is that silk is a natural fiber and satin is a weave. Satin can be created by used silk or other materials. Silk comes with more strength and will have a more shimmery appearance compared to satin’s glossy surface with a dull back. Both have their backings from China but silk is harder to produce, as a single thread requires silk from thousands of silk worms. This makes silk much more expensive than satin which comes from synthetic fibers.
Which is better for pillowcases, bonnets or scarves?
Satin will be much cheaper than silk but if you want to use only a natural fiber, then silk may be the better of the two. Although satin will provide the same benefits as silk when made with the better woven technique like charmeuse satin, check to see the ratio of fillers or fabrics in comparison to the silk in the satin weave to determine just how well it will measure up to silk. For the most affordable yet great quality scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase, using charmeuse satin may be the best choice overall where you will have the best of both worlds while keeping your tresses moisturized, frizz-free, and beautiful.
According to Ebonicurls, the maker of the popular Ebonnet™, charmeuse satin provides the same benefits as silk with a satin weave finish and is more durable with its floating appearance that drapes well. The satin pillowcase, bonnet, and scarf will maintain the natural oils in your hair and allow for less friction between your hair and other surfaces such as a cotton sheet or pillowcase.
Read next: 10 Satin And Silk Pillowcases For Curly Hair
Have you tried both silk and satin? Which worked better for you?
This article has been updated for grammar and clarity.
Image:@alittlealeja
Curlies in hot, dry climates may find themselves fighting with dry, brittle strands this season. Heat may be a contributing factor to the dryness of your hair, but finding the true culprit can take some digging. Blckduck needed some help on summer dryness and inquired in our Curly Q&A for assistance.Question
How can I keep my hair moist in the summer heat? I have tried coconut oil to no avail. I have tried the avocado mask as well as the banana/honey/olive oil mixture, but my hair still gets dry after being outside. I do try to wear a hat, but I don’t want to do that too often for fear of damaging my hairline. Also, I work out 5 to 6 days a week.Answer
First, you may want to incorporate a moisturizer. Oils seal in moisture, but they do not provide moisture. Most oils will help to retain the moisture that is already in your skin and hair, but it cannot moisturize on its own. Summer can be drying with the intense heat, so here are a few tips for keeping your hair moisturized all summer long. Hair masks are a great start, but these additional tricks will help you hydrate your hair.Water is the best moisturizer
Nature provides the #1 source of moisture for our bodies and our strands. Nothing is better than water, and while many mistakenly assume that oils are moisturizers, that simply is not true. Humectant ingredients such as aloe vera, honey, and glycerin are great for attracting moisture and staving off dryness, so check your ingredient lists. You also need to use water-based moisturizers (water will be at the top of their ingredient list”> or simply apply water directly to your hair before adding an oil or serum to seal in the moisture.Use a travel size bottle
Carry around a small spritz bottle of moisturizer to keep hair pliable throughout the day, as sometimes we need that refresher to keep curls hydrated and soft. I always carry one, especially in the summertime. Fill it up with:- water
- leave-in conditioner (use more or less leave-in depending on what your hair needs”>
- a few drops of your favorite oil
Spritz & seal at night
Whenever I notice my strands are getting thirsty, I make sure to spritz my hair with a mix of distilled water and lavender and massage it in before heading to bed.Seal hair before adding styler
Some of us follow the LOC method (liquid+oil+cream”> while others love the LCO (liquid+cream+oil”> method. Try adding a sealant (oil”> before you add your styler to help seal in your moisture to increase your hydration levels.The summer elements can be very drying
Sun, wind, chlorine, and salt water can all wreak havoc on your strands. We tend to be outside more and engage in water-play in the hotter months, so take precautions by protecting your hair when you can. Wear sun hats, apply conditioner to your hair before swimming, and use hair products with UV protection. All of those tips will help keep your hair more moisturized.Switch to a summer regimen
Many of us switch from our heavier products to lighter ones in the summer months. Quite a few curlies switch from gels to styling creams, which tend to be a more moisturizing formula for stylers. The lighter stylers may not give you hold that will last for a week, but their water-based formulas will be more moisturizing.Refresh hair during the week
Since you work out frequently, you may need to refresh your hair once or twice a week to remove any products that were sweated out and to remove scalp buildup. Rather than using shampoo, wash with a gentle co-wash if you are going to cleanse several times a week. Never be afraid of water for your hair and scalp, and know that water will be your very best friend this summer to keep hair moisturized.
Our scalp is skin, but it is some of the thickest skin on our bodies, and it carries more blood than the rest of our body does. It also contains sebaceous glands that produce sebum, and that sebum protects the hair. Now, we worry about keeping our hair clean, but we also have to keep our scalp clean, and according to the Mayo Clinic, there are even forms of hair loss attributed to scalp health or lack thereof. A problem some curly, coily, locked, and wavy girls may face is mildew or fungus.
Have you ever experienced mildew in your hair before? Read more to learn how to avoid and remove mildew in your hair.
What does mildew look like in hair?
Mildew is a surface fungus, often gray or white in color, and often found in damp or moist areas. It gives off a musty smell, and it can be found in your house, on fabrics, and, yes, even your hair and scalp.
Why does mildew occur in hair?
Mildew often occurs in the hair and scalp when wet hair is left unable to dry for extended periods of time. The moisture that gets trapped in the hair can breed mildew, and hairstyles more prone to this would be buns, ponytails, updos, or even locs, although people who sweat heavily in their hair may also suffer from this. The air needed to dry the hair properly is not able to get through to the wet hair, and often they notice something is wrong with the musty smell.
How to prevent mildew in hair
Since this is an issue for a professional, I tapped on the shoulder of American Board Certified Haircolorist and hairstylist Monaé Everett, who advises that the key to avoiding scalp mildew is to allow your hair to dry completely after shampooing, wetting the hair, or sweating.
How to prevent mildew if your hair is really thick
“People who have very thick hair or sweat excessively on the scalp have to take special precautions to fully cleanse and dry their hair” says Everett. “It is more reliable to apply heat to dry very thick hair than to allow hair to dry overnight.”
How to prevent mildew if you sweat a lot
“If you sweat excessively on your scalp, consider cleansing your scalp with an astringent such as Sea Breeze.” Everett shares. “Sea Breeze removes dirt, certain types of dandruff, and oil from the scalp and skin, without the worry of over-drying the scalp. Simply spray it on the scalp, and rinse.”
How to prevent mildew in braids or extensions
“Sea Breeze spray is also a great way to cleanse the scalp if you have braids, locs, or sewn-in hair extensions. This method helps those who have a difficult time getting all the way to the scalp during shampoo or those who don’t fully rinse the product from their hair.” Everett also shared other natural scalp cleansers including apple cider vinegar and lemon juice.
How to remove mildew from hair
Clarifying shampoos or medicated shampoos may need to be used to ensure all the mildew is gone, but proper drying of the hair and scalp is essential to fixing it. Here is a common DIY remedy for this problem.
DIY Mildew Hair Removal Spray
- 2 Tbsp. Tea tree oil or 20 drops of grapefruit oil
- 2 cups of water
Mix in a spray bottle, and spray the solution throughout your hair and scalp, especially where the mildew is concentrated. Leave it on for twenty to thirty minutes, and then shampoo your hair.
Adding a few drops of tea tree oil to your shampoo may also help, and I used this myself when I was suffering from dandruff; it worked like a charm. Yes, this is an ugly topic, but it’s a very real one, and if you find yourself suffering from mildewed hair and scalp, then fix the problem by allowing your hair to dry properly. Knowledge is power!
Have you suffered from mildew hair or scalp? What did you do to get rid of it? Let us know in the comments below!
This article was originally published in 2017 and has been updated.
With a medicinal value dating back thousands of years, ginger has been well-researched, with many of its traditional uses confirmed and still used today. Ginger, also known as Zingiber officinale, is from the Zingiberaceae family, which is closely related to turmeric and cardamom. Ginger originated in the tropical jungles of Southern Asia, dating back to over 5000 years ago, and is mentioned in ancient Chinese, Indian, and Middle Eastern writings and prized for its culinary and medicinal properties. The commonly known spice ginger is the rhizome (the underground portion of the individual spears of the ginger plant).
What are the benefits of ginger?
Ginger is loaded with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties like beta-carotene, capsaicin, caffeic acid, and gingerols. It is full of vitamins, minerals, anti-viral, circulation-stimulating, detoxifying, digestive, and antiseptic compounds. This explains why it is so widely used for ailments like the common cold, vomiting, motion sickness, nausea, mild stomach upset, pregnancy, and even cancer chemotherapy.
Why is ginger so great for your hair?
In Ayurveda, ginger is highly regarded as a hair growth treatment. There are several components in ginger that aid in hair growth, like magnesium, phosphorous, and potassium. These minerals help stimulate blood flow to the scalp, which encourages restored hair growth. Ginger has an abundance of fatty acids that help with thinning hair, so while it is encouraging blood flow to the scalp it is also preventing thinning hair from turning into hair loss.
Ginger has natural antiseptic properties that provide alleviation for dandruff. Just mix two tablespoons of grated ginger with three tablespoons of olive or sesame oil and a dash of lemon juice. Massage into your scalp and leave in for 30 minutes or overnight before rinsing. This mix should be used at least three times a week until dandruff has been remedied. Besides helping with hair growth, ginger is also known to help with eliminating dandruff and adding sheen.
Ginger for thinning edges
Thinning edges are a common problem and can occur from genetics, hormones, certain medications, or excessive styling. Overuse of ponytails that are pulling too tightly, and slicking down edges with gels that contain drying alcohols, wig caps, and glues can also damage your delicate edges. With the blood-circulating properties in ginger, you can turn a nightly massage into something more than just a relaxing way of drifting off to sleep. You can simply squeeze the juice from the ginger and massage it into your edges with jojoba oil or avocado oil. This should turn into a nightly routine to encourage the hairs to stop breaking and to regrow those edges. Keep in mind that ginger does two things for thinning edges: stop the hair from falling off even more and stimulate the hair follicles to grow at their own optimal speed. It does not make it grow faster, but it increases blood flow to the scalp to stimulate the hair follicles and encourage growth.
DIY Massage Oil for Thinning Edges
- Ginger oil
- Jojoba, olive, or avocado oil
1. Mix equal parts of ginger root oil with another oil like jojoba, avocado, or olive oil.
2. Massage the oil mixture onto the scalp around the edges gently and in a circular motion.
This can be used on your entire scalp as well. Do nightly until you feel they have grown back fully. There is no need for a lot of the mixture to be used during each application, or you will end up with an oily mess, so use enough to gently massage and not leave a significant residue.
Read next: How to Give Yourself a Scalp Massage
Understand that this will not work if you are still using those techniques that may have caused the thinning edges in the first place, so do not cause tension to your edges while you work on growing them back. If the scalp is thinning due to hormonal problems or medicine then seek the advice of a medical professional on what you can do to revive the problem without interfering with your health. If you are more interested in just using ginger as a hair growth remedy, then I have a great and popular mix below!
DIY Hair Growth Mix
- 1 tbsp. grated ginger
- 1 tbsp. of jojoba oil (or favorite carrier or base oil)
1. Mix ginger and jojoba oil together before applying directly to your scalp and massage in circular motions gently.
2. Allow to sit for 30 min.
You may notice a warming sensation, but nothing to worry about. That means it’s working! Proceed to shampoo and condition.
Are you ready to switch up your hair routine by using ginger for thinning edges? Let us know in the comments below.
1. Argan oil
Argan oil is a light plant-based oil produced by cold pressing from an argan nut from the argan tree, which grows in Southwestern Morocco. It is high in vitamin E, palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic fatty acids and can protect the hair and scalp from UV rays. Argan oil will not only fight frizz but is great for adding shine to dull curls without weighing down your hair.
Why do we love it?
It is super lightweight, so it won’t weigh down your hair. It can be used with a deep conditioner or by itself because it penetrates the hair shaft to help keep hair moisturized. This is why it is ideal for frizz that many face during the warmer months. Argan oil is great for keeping the scalp moisturized and protected from the sun, as we tend to be outside more in the warmer months.
2. Grapeseed oil
This non-greasy, lightweight, and odorless gem comes from the seeds of a grape and while different from grapeseed extract, it has a powerful composition backing it up. Grapeseed oil has vitamin E, linoleic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic fatty acids and excellent at being absorbed into the skin.
Why do we love it?
It is lighter oil than olive oil and coconut oil and will not leave you a greasy mess. Much less expensive than other oils, it has natural conditioning agents that will help soften hair, fight frizz, and add sheen without weighing down your strands or making them oily and will fight free radicals that can be damaging to your scalp and hair.
3. Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil is a wax ester that comes from seeds of the jojoba plant found in southern U.S. and northern Mexico. This oil is unique because it is structurally and chemically similar to human sebum and extremely safe to use. It also has vitamin E, erucic, gadoleic, and oleic fatty acids and has antibacterial and antioxidant properties.
Why do we love it?
It is lightweight, so it will neither weigh down your strands nor clog your pores. It will protect hair from chlorine and saltwater for all the swimming you will be doing this summer.
4. Rosehip seed oil
Rosehip oil is a dry oil that soaks into skin easily and harvested from the seeds of Chilean grown rose bushes. It is chocked full of vitamins, antioxidants and oleic, palmitic, linoleic and linolenic fatty acids. Rosehip oil is a wonderful emollient for dry or mature skin and excellent at aiding in repair and renewal of damaged hair follicles and scalp tissues. Great for restoring hair and skin’s elasticity and protects them both from the sun.
Why do we love it?
This oil is lightweight with a non-greasy feel and absorbs well into the skin, scalp, and hair. It is great for sensitive skin (I use it as a moisturizer”> and will not leave your face or hair feeling greasy during the warmer months. This oil is great for protecting your strands and skin from the blistering sun during the hotter months.
5. Sweet almond oil
One of the lightest drupe oils, sweet almond oil is extracted from edible almonds and is mild and hypoallergenic. A light oil, it fully absorbs in to the skin and gentle enough to be used on babies. It has vitamin E, potassium, zinc and linoleic, linolenic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic fatty acids. It is an ideal sealant, promoter of healthy hair follicles and will add shine to your strands.
Why is sweet almond oil great for spring and summer?
Sweet almond oil is excellent for spring and summer, because it penetrates easily into the skin, scalp, and hair while sealing in moisture and smoothing the hair shaft when applied modestly. It is lightweight and nourishes dry skin and hair well.
Do you have a favorite oil for spring and summer? The Righteous Roots Rx Oil was voted NaturallyCurly’s Best of the Best 2019 best scalp treatment and hair oil, grab yours here.
Question
What type of braids should I get for my natural hair? I’ve never had braids and want to explore. I am going on three months natural (and”> I’ve heard putting braids in will maximize the growth. Which kind of braids should I get?
Answer
First, congrats for going natural. No matter how many have gone before you, this is a personal and rewarding journey that is more than a hairstyle change, depending on what it means to you. A popular way to go natural is wearing braids for maximum length retention. Maximum growth comes from not braids but proper diet, exercise, moisture-protein balance, low stress levels, genetics, and low manipulation. This does not mean you cannot achieve maximum growth by wearing braids while you transition; this is just a reminder that added hair is a style and not a solution for optimal hair growth.
Placing braids in your hair is a great way to transition, but there are rules to follow so that your transitioned hair (that may be fragile and weak from chemical relaxers”> does not become weaker or neglected. Hair that is in braids, under a wig, or in a sew-in still needs moisturizing and cleansing, and when transitioning you must be hyper vigilant about taking care of your curls when it is braided or hidden away. Protective styles only work if you are protecting the hair that is hidden.
Crochet braids, Senegalese twists or braids, or box braids are great styles for transitioning
There are several types of styles to choose from but like the next tip states, you need to be aware of which size will be best.
Steer clear from small braids or tight braids
These can be detrimental to your edges especially, but styles like micro braids are notorious for pulling hair out from the root. They are really not great for anyone, but for a transitioner it can be grave mistake that may cause breakage. The larger the braids the better, as that allows you to reach your scalp and hairs to properly moisturize, cleanse, and allow air to get to your scalp.
Give your hair a break in-between braid installations
Do not take your braids down on a Tuesday and have more installed on a Friday. You need to give your hair a week or longer to breath and rest. It may be a great time for a trim during one of those breaks too, so check your ends and edges to making sure there is no thinning. Never allow a braider to install your braids so tight that you find bumps or have headaches. That means the braid is too tight and you are at risk of thinning or even breakage when you take it down.
Give your hair (during breaks”> some extra TLC
Protein treatments are great for strengthening your hair after a long braid installation. Make sure to deep condition during and after your braid installation. Remember that your hair needs to be cleansed, conditioning, and moisturized whether braided or loose. Never leave your braids in longer than recommended and give your hair enough time to rest between applications.
Read more: Ask Dr. Kari: Effective Protective Styling
Question
Help! I’ve tried close to everything! Hair is still frizzy! Hi! So I’m a 16-year-old Caucasian female! This past year I’ve learned that my hair was super curly! It never used to be that way, but once I hit puberty I noticed it changed and became frizzy and wavy and partly straight still, well now, it’s curly! I want to wear my hair down because I hate having to wear buns and braids all of the time, but the thing is my hair is so frizzy. It is embarrassing if I try to wear it down, and I’ve tried close to everything! Serums, oils, leave in frizz conditioners, gels, mousses, etc. and nothing seems to work! I need help! Is this fixable? I just want to be able to wear my hair down natural!
Answer
Trying to reduce frizz takes new techniques paired with trial and error. First off, knowing why this is happening can be of some comfort so let’s explain why you are going through a hair texture change.
As our body ages we may see some changes in our hair texture. “Hair changes every five to seven years,” said Christo of the Christo Fifth Avenue Salon and creator of the Curlisto line of hair products. Science has not totally figured out why someone with stick straight hair and a rounder follicle can end up with curly hair and a flatter follicle or vice versa from aging, but this is a fairly common phenomenon.
Now here are some tips for reducing your frizz and helping you create beautiful curl definition so that you can grow to love your curls!
How to fix it
- Incorporate co-washing between your shampoos. The whole purpose of co-washing is to keep from stripping the hair of their natural oils, which in turn creates excess frizz. Here are our community’s favorites!
- Apply a leave-in conditioner to your hair before applying a styler, as it will keep the moisture in your hair and also fight off frizz.
- Explore different stylers with various holds. There are cream stylers, cream gels, mousses, and gels. I know you have had some problems with stylers before, but here is where the trial and error comes into play. We all have to find what we like, but if you need some direction here are our Editors’ Choice picks.
- Apply product to soaking wet hair.
- Do not dry your hair with a conventional towel. Use an old t-shirt or a microfiber towel that will not disrupt the curl or the curl pattern.
- Try braiding your damp hair in 4-6 braids at night, this will prevent frizz from forming (from rubbing on your pillow”> while you sleep. Make sure your hair is completely dry before you take down the braids, otherwise your hair may frizz once you leave the house (you can use a diffuser to speed up the process if necessary”>. When you take down your dry braids they will give you a uniform wave.
- Do not touch your hair while it is drying and setting. The more manipulation, the more frizz that will be induced.
What about humidity?
On ultra-humid days, add additional leave-in conditioner or an oil to help weigh down the hair and keep the strands from expanding. Also, those may be the days you choose to rock the traditional bun, messy bun, or even the ninja bun as these three looks look even better with more volume as frizz often gives us.
Frizz isn’t that bad
Another important aspect to keep in mind is that your unique texture may be prone to frizz and there is nothing wrong with that; it is equally beautiful. No matter how much you deep condition, moisturize, and seal, frizz may be a part of your natural texture. It is frizzy when wet and frizzy when dry. Another thing to consider is whether you have heat damage. Heat damaged hair has a chipped and raised cuticle, which expands as an attempt to absorb moisture, so if you straighten regularly, then you may want to stop and be patient for your virgin hair to grow in.
Working with your curls instead of against them is the best way to have frizz-free hair. Co-washing, using a lot of conditioner, sealing your hair’s cuticle and leaving it be when styled will all help in your quest for frizz-free curls when first coming aboard the curly, coily girl ride. It is a fun ride so enjoy!
Has your hair changed over time? Either grown curlier or less curly?
This article has been updated.
Natural oils go hand in hand with natural hair and for good reason. If you want your natural hair to feel moisturized, soft, free of single strand knots and shiny, then oils are a huge component of that equation. Sealing is not the only job for natural oils and they don’t necessary have to be the last part of your styling routine or just for a hot oil treatment. If you’ve been natural for a while, then you’ve probably heard about oil rinsing and how wonderful it can be for your strands.
What is oil rinsing?
Oil rinsing is using oil in your wash routine to aid in moisture retention and removing knots and tangles. Some actually replace shampoo with oil cleansing in their regimen, and if you subscribe to the oil cleansing method then you may agree. Others oil rinse after your hair has been cleansed to combat the drying effects of shampoo and to reinforce the conditioning properties of a conditioner. Either way, it can be a positive tool in your hair care regimen.
How do you oil rinse hair?
Essentially you are using a carrier oil (must be in the liquid form and stay liquid whether warmed or cold”> onto your hair just as you would a conditioner. Make sure it is all natural and you can pick most of those up in the food aisle of the grocery store. It will be much cheaper than in the beauty aisle. Massage the oil from the roots to the tips to ensure oil is covering all of your strands and finger through or use a wide tooth comb to get it throughout your strands.
Great oils for oil rinsing are:
- Olive
- Castor
- Jojoba
- Grapeseed
- Almond
- Argan
It’s truly the preference of the user on which oil to try as your hair will guide you. Also, you can be a shampooer or even a co-washer to try this method. Allow the oil to sit on your head (with a plastic cap or not”> for at least 5 minutes before rinsing lightly. You can use cold water if you applied the oil after your conditioner and wish to close your hair cuticle or with warm water if you plan on finishing up with your conditioner after you rinse it out.
The Benefits of Oil Rinsing Your Hair
- Better moisture retention than just with water and/or a water based conditioner
- Less single-strand knots
- Less tangles
- A reduction in frizz
- Softer hair
- Gives a boost in the detangling session
Yes it can be messy so doing it while in the shower is great but watch out for a slippery shower floor. You can always add more or less to your hair’s needs and even though some feel that it’s not ideal for co-washers, don’t let that keep you from trying it. You may not need it as much and can just use less on your hair or rinse out more. Oil rinsing can be adjusted to fit your hair’s needs and your personal routine. Don’t ever feel locked into a hair care routine as we must tailor them to our lifestyle, climate, schedule, and hair.
Can Oil Rinsing Replace Shampoo?
There are some who feel it can replace shampoo, but if you would like to try that then a more cleansing oil like castor oil may work and you can add a few drops of peppermint, lavender or tea tree oil to help with the cleansing. I would test it out first to see if you feel it’s properly cleansing your hair, but if you notice build-up and not feeling your hair is getting completely cleaned then try a shampoo or co-washing cleanser, but always know to listen to your hair and find out what it needs.
This article has been updated.
Deep conditioning is a necessary component of healthy hair care, and while it should be completed during every wash day, it is not the end of the world if skipped. There are several reasons why someone may occasionally skip this step just like there reasons why you need to do them, especially if using a clarifying shampoo. Conditioners close the hair’s cuticle layer that was opened by shampoo for optimal hydration, frizz free, and stronger hair.
For many curlies, it is best to deep condition after every wash day, but what if you wash your hair often? Jasmina wanted to know just that when she posted this question in Curly Q&A.
Question
Hello! Is it ok to deep condition anytime I wash my hair (2-3 times a week”>? Thanks 😀
Answer
Just like anything else in life, you can have too much of a good thing. Some need to deep condition more than others, for example you need the extra moisture if you
- swim regularly
- use heat tools
- have color-treated hair
- spend a lot of time in the sun
- have damaged hair
The more damage you put on your hair requires deep conditioning but finding that sweet spot to the right amount depends on your lifestyle you lead and the needs of your hair. Here are some tips to help guide you.
What is a deep conditioner?
Deep conditioners are thicker conditioners with ingredients that penetrate the hair shaft. They are intended to temporarily repair and nourish between the hair cuticles with its higher viscosity. They are heavier and need to be left on the hair longer to fully penetrate the hair shaft. Applying with heat allows for it to penetrate easier and better and these conditioners have penetrating oils and other ingredients that fight frizz, dryness, and damaged strands.
How often should you deep condition?
You should deep condition after every wash but for some that is a huge time commitment and it may not be necessary. Washing your hair more than once or twice a week may be too often. Too much conditioning can create over-moisturized hair and disrupt the proper balance of moisture and protein that hair needs. Deep conditioning once or twice a week is more than enough, anything more than that may be overdoing it. Your hair will let you know.
What does over-conditioned hair look like?
Over-conditioned hair, also known as hygral fatigue, is limp, mushy, or lifeless. It may be over-conditioned or over-moisturized and the quickest fix is to use a protein treatment. If you find your hair appears mushy or limp and you are deep conditioning more than once a week, try reducing how often you deep condition to just once a week.
On the other hand, if your hair is responding well to 2-3 deep conditioning treatments, then there is no need to make a change. Many women with color-treated hair or those who use heat regularly probably need that extra moisture, so allow your hair to guide you on what it needs. Trial and error will be the best way to determine if deep conditioning several times a week is ideal or too much for your hair, so look for the signs of over-conditioned hair and remember to maintain the protein-moisture balance.
GETTY IMAGES
Many curlies have heard of using henna, amla, or marshmallow root on their hair, but one that is becoming an Ayurvedic favorite is the Bhringaraj herb. It’s no surprise that once we transition to wearing our natural texture and avoiding certain ingredients, many of us become curious about natural alternatives for more of our hair routine – from coloring to hair care to hair growth.
One of the amazing benefits of this holistic healing system is the abundance of Ayurvedic powders that can be incorporated into our healthy hair care system that many curlies have embraced. Ayurvedic herbs or powders have a wealth of benefits and many are drawn to them for natural remedies to everyday ailments.
What is Ayurveda?
Ayurvedic medicine, also known as Ayurveda, is one of the oldest holistic healing systems that originated thousands of years ago in India. It believes that health and wellness are connected and dependent on the balance between the mind, body, and spirit. Ayurveda is India’s primary healthcare system, even today, and more than 90% of the continent’s population uses some form of Ayurvedic therapy. In the United States it has more of a complementary healthcare option when many Americans employing Ayurvedic elements like meditation and cleansing therapies for the body as a whole. Ayurveda means “the knowledge of long life” and addresses the well-being of the entire body both spiritually and physically.
What is Bhringaraj Powder?
Bhringaraj, an Ayurvedic herb found throughout India, is also known as Eclipta alba. Bhringaraj is considered a rasayana or a substance that rejuvenates. It has anti-inflammatory properties, healing properties, and may help to enhance and improve vision and sense of hearing. Bhringaraj can be used in a powder form or as an oil; it is all dependent upon your preference and intended usage.
3 Benefits of Bhringaraj Powder for hair
1. Mask graying hair
For curlies looking to combat the gray naturally, this powder is a useful tool. It is traditionally added to indigo and hemp to make natural hair dyes.
2. Improve hair growth
Bhringaraj powder is considered the best Ayurvedic remedy for hair loss. This powder is great for stimulating growth if you have a medical condition, stress, or filling out a receding hairline. Most use it in this capacity as an oil to massage in the affected areas either as a pretreatment before a shampoo or a nightly ritual.
3. Relieve scalp infections
Bhringaraj powder can also be used as a scalp exfoliator and the anti-inflammatory properties make it great for soothing inflamed scalps and keeping scalp infections at bay. Great at reducing problematic dandruff.
How to Use Bhringaraj Powder on Your Hair
Bhringaraj Powder Scalp Exfoliator
Ingredients:
- 2 heaping tbsp. Bhringaraj powder
- Water (just enough to mix into a thick paste”>
- 1 tsp. of sulfur powder
Directions:
Mix the powder and water into a thick paste. Use a little water at first and add drops as necessary. The desired consistency is a thick paste. Dissolve sulfur powder in a teaspoon of water (it should still be grainy”> and add to Bhringaraj paste. Apply to scalp using circular motions with fingertips after shampooing. Rinse thoroughly, apply moisturizer, and style as usual.
Bhringaraj Scalp Stimulator
Ingredients:
- 2 tbsp. Bhringaraj powder
- Enough yogurt to mix evenly with powder
Directions:
Mix powder and yogurt well and apply to affected areas and leave on for 15 min. Rinse off, shampoo, and style as usual. Can be used weekly.
Where to Buy Bhringaraj Powder
You can find Bhringaraj in either powder or oil form at Indian or Pakistani stores and grocers, and if you don’t have one in your area you can purchase them online:
- Banyan Botanicals Bhringaraj Powder
- Biotique Botanicals Bhringraj Hair Growth ThERApeutic Oil
- Naturevibe Botanicals USDA Organic Bhringraj Powder
Have you tried Bhringaraj powder or oil and if so what were your thoughts?
This article has been updated to include links to purchase Bhringaraj.
Working out is important and no one is disputing that fact. The next question is how to properly maintain or cleanse your hair while exercising regularly? Is there a one size fits all kind of routine and does that go for all hair types? NaturallyCurly member Ivory.conley from our Curly Q&A section needed some advice on whether her wash routine was sufficient.
Question
I have type 4a hair. I workout moderately – intense at least 3-4 days a week. I hear a lot of women saying they co-wash every time they workout but I don’t feel the need to. My scalp is not irritated or itching by the end of the week if I only co-wash once between workouts. Is this a bad thing? Should I wash more frequently?
Answer
You can find multiple ways to preserve your style, but as Ivory.conley has found out, no one is giving advice on how often to wash your hair when working out regularly. Every curly does not want to be glamorous. Many curly girls just want to know the basics on caring for their tresses while they exercise and worry less about keeping a style. Neither concern is less important than the other, but both issues need to be addressed.
To answer the question, you do not have to wash your hair after every workout. For one, too much washing can compromise the health of your hair causing hygral fatigue, which causes elasticity problems that lead to breakage. Since excessively washing your hair can strip the hair of the natural oils, no one should be washing daily. A perfect alternative to washing your hair after every workout is just rinsing or leaving it alone. Also, there are some amazing products on the market that were created just for that sort of problem. It is important to knowing your own hair and whether or not you feel your hair needs to be washed after every workout. Ivory.conley has assessed her hair’s needs and realized it is not necessary for her to wash her hair but once a week with regular workouts.
What are the needs of your hair?
Some women wash their hair weekly, biweekly, or even monthly, so that must be determined prior to factoring in working out. If licensed cosmetologists advise weekly or biweekly cleansing, then you may have to increase it in order to remove the sweat from the scalp to avoid potential scalp buildup. Using witch hazel with a cotton ball to absorb the oil is great for in between wash days.
Preserving your style
Save Your Do Full Triangle Gymwrap was created by the lovely Nicole Ari Parker. It is a stylish headband with an edge control technology that minimizes sweat absorption into your hair. Moisture is whisked away from your tresses and not only does it preserve. Also consider using protective styles that expose the scalp (e.g. Havana twists, cornrows, braids”> that make for easier access and cleansing.
Conclusion
Washing daily or after every workout is not necessary and may actually be detrimental to your hair’s health, but how you style your hair will determine how often to wash your hair when you workout regularly. The frequency will be determined by your own workout, hair, and needs. Listen to your hair and know that once a week is not a problem if your hair has no problem with it. Ariella from MsAriella89 shares her experience with working out (and being a Zumba instructor”> with natural hair. It is a very informative video and she discusses how just wetting her hair is working just fine for her.
Photo by Kadarius Seegars on Unsplash
Most curlies know about heat protectants that lessen the damage from heat styling. Whether you blow-dry, flat iron, or use a curling iron, you need a heat protectant. No one told me this back when I used relaxers, so I must have fried my hair to death back then, but now, most of us know better. Currently, an interest for purer products is growing, and more women are turning to natural oils in their hair care regimens. But where heat damage is concerned, oil might not be your best bet. Let’s consider the benefits and disadvantages.
What are carrier oils?
Most carrier oils are vegetable oils derived from the fatty portion of a plant in the seeds, kernels, or even the nuts. However, not all of them come from vegetables, such as emu and fish oil. Carrier oils, also known as fixed oils because they are less volatile in nature than essential oils, can be cold-pressed (mechanical”>, expelled (mechanical”>, or extracted with a solvent (chemical”>. Cold-pressed oils are preferable as they retain the highest nutritional value.
Most carrier oils are chock-full of organic acids such as oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid, which make them excellent emollients that nourish your skin and hair. We use them in cosmetics, cooking, and to dilute highly concentrated essential oils. Here are some of the oils most commonly used as heat protectant.
- Argan oil circulates among natural hair blogs as a suggestion for protecting hair from heat
- Grapeseed oil is said to have a high smoke point and adds shine to flat ironed curls.
- Coconut oil is a popular solution known for helping to repair hair damage.
- Shea Butter is considered a great heat protectant because its thermal conductivity is almost as good as popular silicones used in most heat protectants, namely dimethicone and cyclomethicone.
But the natural hair community might be missing some important information about the properties of the oils they’re using as heat protectants.
Read more: Oleic and Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils so Much
What are smoke points?
Now, it is time to put the lab coat on and see whether these oils can actually protect you from dryness and heat damage. Chemist Yolanda Anderson explains that the smoke point, called the burning point in chemistry, refers to the temperature at which an oil begins to smoke, discolor, and decompose.
Oil smoke points
| Fat | Smoke Point °F | Smoke Point °C |
| Unrefined sunflower oil | 225°F | 107°C |
| Unrefined high-oleic sunflower oil | 320°F | 160°C |
| Extra virgin olive oil | 320°F | 160°C |
| Coconut oil | 350°F | 177°C |
| Macadamia nut oil | 390°F | 199°C |
| High quality (low acidity”> extra virgin olive oil | 405°F | 207°C |
| Grapeseed oil | 420°F | 216°C |
| Virgin olive oil | 420°F | 216°C |
| Sunflower oil | 440°F | 227°C |
| Refined high-oleic sunflower oil | 450°F | 232°C |
| Semi refined sunflower oil | 450°F | 232°C |
| Olive pomace oil | 460°F | 238°C |
| Extra light olive oil | 468°F | 242°C |
| Avocado oil | 520°F | 271°C |
Oils should never be heated to their smoke points. Scientists believe that fats heated past their smoke points contain a large quantities of free radicals and a substance called acrolein, which contributes to a higher risk of cancer, according to Anderson. As a fat degrades, it also gets closer to its flash point, where it will begin producing ignitable gases. This means that using hot tools on oiled hair may risk some toxic outcomes.
Using oils as heat protectants
According to the cosmetic scientists and writers at The Beauty Brains, “Heat tolerance (in this case measured by smoke point of the oil”> is only one factor to consider. You also need to look at how the product lubricates hair. You can experiment with oils if you want DIY heat protection but be careful: oils alone can create drag which could slow down the flat iron as it passes through your hair, so it could end up doing more damage. Good heat protectants should also help offset the drying effects of heat. Ideally you want a combination of glycerin or other moisturizers to lock in water and a low molecular weight polymer that can penetrate and help prevent heat from cracking the cuticles.”
Using silicones as heat protectants
Cosmetic scientist and NaturallyCurly contributor, Erica Douglas aka Sister Scientist, told us that “Oils behave very similarly to silicones by creating protective barriers from bad things like heat…Some oils can remain intact at extremely high temperatures, but they are often the heavier oils that can weigh the hair down. This is why formulating chemists will combine synthetic ingredients like silicones with the natural goodness of oils to provide an improved customer experience when using the product.” Therefore, silicone-based heat protectants are more likely to give you the benefits you originally wanted out of oils. If you follow the Curly Girl Method then silicone-based products are off limits, but so is heat styling.
If you follow the Curly Girl Method then silicone-based products are off limits, but so is heat styling.
Read more: Heat Protectants: This Buildup Actually Saves Your Hair
Conclusion
Just because an ingredient is natural does not always make it the most effective candidate for the job. Avoiding smoke points is incredibly important for your safety, and your hair definitely needs ingredients that combat moisture depletion. Many heat protectant products contain silicones like cyclomethicone and dimethicone, which work extremely well at coating the hair and creating a thin, water repelling, heat-resistant coating. Yes, there are natural oils that act like silicones and will protect the hair from heat, but as Sister Scientist suggests, there are many great products created using natural and synthetic ingredients to give you a healthier and safer heat protectant.
If you are going to use an oil, be careful and make sure to apply a lightweight leave-in conditioner or a moisturizer as well; a pure oil alone will likely leave you with dry, fragile strands.
Ultimately, if you are going to heat style your hair then we recommend using a product that has been formulated specifically for the purpose of protecting your hair from heat damage because once you have inflicted heat damage on your hair it is practically impossible to reverse.
What are your favorite heat protectants?
This article was originally published in 2017 and has been updated to incorporate reader feedback.
