Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

Many of the elements we need to stay healthy are linked to maintaining healthier hair, with essential fatty acids being one vital component of that equation. Our bodies naturally produce some of these acids while we cannot produce others like the Omega-6s. A healthy diet consists of a balance between Omega-3 and Omega-6. It is one of the more popular Omega-6 fatty acids would be linoleic acid. 

Arachidonic acid is an unsaturated, Omega-6 fatty acid that is essential for the brain, liver, and organs, according to the National Institutes of Health. A diet rich in linoleic acid will supply your body with the tools to make arachidonic acid, because linoleic acid gets broken down into gamma-Linolenic acid and that gets converted over to arachidonic acid. Arachidonic acid can be found in eggs, meat, and some fish. This 20-carbon fatty acid is easily absorbed by the body’s gastrointestinal tract and circulatory system.

Read more: You Need These Fatty Acids for Healthy Hair

Why you would want arachidonic acid in your hair products?

This oily liquid is used quite often in not just hair products but cosmetics and personal care items, because it functions as a skin conditioning agent. Being an omega-6 fatty acid goes without saying for the best reason. Omega-6s always benefits skin and hair growth. This oily liquid that conditions the scalp and hair because it is easily absorbed and retains moisture. Arachidonic acid will enhance the appearance of a dry scalp by actually reducing the flakiness and restoring its natural suppleness.

Unlike other omega-6s, arachidonic is not an anti-inflammatory fatty acid. For this reason, supplements may not be a great idea, especially when you can obtain necessary amounts from either your diet or hair products that use them in their formulations. We have some below for optimizing its powerful natural components and not over-doing it.

Products with arachidonic acid

• Back to Basics Basic Texture, Get Curly Curl Enhancing Shampoo 
• Back to Basics Basic Texture, Get Curly Curl Enhancing Conditioner
• Infusium 23 Moisturizing Shampoo For Normal to Dry Hair 
• Ouidad Clear & Gentle Essential Daily Shampoo 

One of the many beauty secrets for skin and hair is pataua oil. Pataua oil comes from the fruit of the palm tree that can be found growing wild in the tropical rainforest areas. Fruit is produced within its eight year and can produce up to three infructescences per year. Used for generations by the indigenous people in the Amazon rainforest, when the fruit becomes ripe they are harvested and covered for a day or two to encourage further ripening. 

The traditional method of extraction entails soaking the fruits in water to separate the pulp from the seeds before shredding the fruit and placing the pulp in a container of hot water and boil until the oil appears. The patauá fruit is around 39% pulp and 61% seeds and the pulp contains 18% oil.

What is the composition of patauá oil?

This thick, dark, greenish-yellow oil has a faint herbal aroma and taste with a non-greasy feel. It has lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, and linolenic fatty acids, making it a remarkable natural oil. With the high concentrations of oleic acid, it has amazing moisturizing properties. That is just the tip of the iceberg on what makes this oil treasurable, because besides that laundry list of fatty acids, it also has flavonoids, vitamins A, C, and E. This oil is on the skin and hair care radar as it works extremely well for persons suffering from dry skin, scalp, and hair.

Read more: Oleic & Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much and 4 Acids that are Great for Your Hair

How does patauá oil help the scalp and hair?

Any oil that has such a high concentration of oleic acid is a moisturizing heaven for dry hair, and the benefits go beyond just moisturizing. Patauá oil is also great for treating dandruff, revitalizing strands, and adding a healthy sheen. It is believed to help keep the hair and scalp hydrated, nourished, and protected. The top benefit of this Amazon rainforest oil is how well it seals and restores the moisture level of the hair and scalp. It has regenerative properties that not only stave off pre-mature aging but also adds softness. This sweet aromatic oil also soaks into hair without a greasy feel easily and quickly in comparison to olive oil. As this oil finds its way into our hearts, we may be seeing it in ingredient lists in our favorite products. Until then you can purchase the oil by itself or try these products formulated with this phenomenal oil.

Products with Patauá oil

• Osmo Deep Moisture Conditioner
• Osmo Deep Moisture Dual Action Miracle Repair
• Mystic Moments Seje (Pataua”> Carrier Oil 

Are you forever trying to find ways to mend or reverse split ends? Can split ends be repaired? Are you only left with the dreaded scissors or is technology finally catching up with our wishes and finding ways to mend, repair, or halt split ends? If you would have asked me this a few weeks ago the answer would have been a resounding no. But now there is something called the PEC technology and it is taking a serious stand against your split ends.

According to The Beauty Brains, polyelectrolyte complex (PEC”> is a split end mending technology that works from inside the actual split to pull it back together. This is vastly different from conditioners because it doesn’t just sit and coat the hair. The tiny PEC molecules can enter the split end and stick to the damaged hair protein as well as other complex molecules. The Beauty Brains explains that it then creates a bridge across the open end of the splits. The two ingredients necessary for mending are polyquaternium-28 and PVM/MA Copolymer. Know that even if a product has this in the ingredient list that does not guarantee it will work. Watch the PEC technology work here.

[quote cite=”Randy Schueller, Cosmetic Scientist and co-founder of The Beauty Brains” citeurl=”http://thebeautybrains.com/2012/02/01/hair-repair-new-technology-really-works/” align=”aligncenter”]The polyelectrolyte complex that these ingredients form is very sensitive to processing, other ingredients that may be present, and even concentration.[/quote]

Now, it’s not a permanent fix, but it can potentially decrease the rate at which your ends split and prolong your next trim. All of these products do not claim to contain PEC technology, but all of these products can help keep your ends lubricated, which lead to less splits.

Tresemme Split Remedy Shampoo

Tresemme Split Remedy Shampoo has the PEC technology to mend the split ends and favors well with users. It claims to reduce up to 80% of split ends after only three uses and will also smooth your hair while gently cleansing.

Tresemme Split Remedy Conditioner

This Tresemme Split Remedy Conditioner with the mending technology receives great reviews from users. It claims to reduce up to 80% of split ends after only three uses while also moisturizing dry, damaged strands.

Tresemme Split Remedy Sealing Serum

This serum will help mend and end splits while reducing frizz and sealing in the shine for a more polished finish to your tresses.

Alterna Caviar Repair Split Ends Mend

Contains the mending technology along with caviar to mend and seal damaged ends while strengthening strands to prevent future breakage. Stand-building proteins will fill in the gaps and tears in your hair’s cuticle to restructure and strengthen your strands.

Nexxus Pro-Mend Shampoo

Infused with the PEC technology, this daily shampoo prepares split end prone hair for a gentle cleansing while restoring the vital nourishment it needs.

Nexxus Pro-Mend Conditioner

This daily conditioner has both mending ingredients that will target those split ends and bind them together in just three uses. Get stronger, healthier hair in no time.

Nexxus Pro-Mend Leave-in Treatment Creme

Formulated with the PEC technology, this leave-in treatment will bind up to 92% of damaged ends back together. This is a daily repair system for split end problems.

Joico K-Pak Reconstruct Split End Mender

This split end mender has the dual mending ingredients and is designed for damaged, chemically treated hair. This product will deeply penetrate to create the ultra-durable bond that gives maximum protection and reconstruction to your hair’s cortex. Moisture is locked in and the cuticle is sealed.

Suave Split End Rescue Shampoo

Formulated with the split end mending technology, this shampoo promises to reduce split ends by up to 70% when used with its partner in crime, the Suave Split End Rescue Conditioner. This shampoo will gently but effectively cleanse and make your hair stronger after its use.

Suave Split End Rescue Conditioner

This is the second part of this duo with the PEC technology. A purposeful conditioner that transforms your split ends into healthier hair with only after three uses.

Carol’s Daughter Monoi Split End Sealer

This sealer is formulated with coconut oil, sweet almond oil, and shea butter to keep your ends lubricated and less susceptible to split due to friction on your clothes or the harsh climate. It also claims to instantly seal 93.3% of splits instantly. Go ahead a give it a go.

Aussie Hair Insurance Split End Protector

The first three ingredients for this mender are water, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol. Here you have moisture backed by two fatty alcohols to keep your ends soft instead of brittle. This is a great option for home maintenance in between trims.

Herbal Essences Split End Protector

Again, you have the moisture and fatty alcohol combo with water, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, but this formula also contains hydrolyzed silk, which is known to mend patches along the hair shaft due to manipulation and natural weathering. This is great to pair with sealing in your hair care regimen.

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We sometimes forget that not everyone can tolerate the ingredients that come in our favorite hair products. Some are allergic to soy, nuts, and gluten, but what about apple cider vinegar? Apple cider vinegar (largely known in our community as ACV“> is the natural product of fermenting crushed apples that has been around for thousands of years. It has several beauty uses and for naturals it has become a staple for natural methods of caring for your hair, but not everyone can tolerate it.  

Even though CaseyLSwain from our Curly Q&A is allergic to ACV, she still wants the benefits. Here is her question.

Question

Can I use white distilled vinegar instead of apple cider vinegar?  I’m allergic to some of the ingredients in apple cider vinegar. Would it be okay to use white distilled vinegar instead? Does it work the same?  I’m transitioning and really trying not to do a big chop just yet. So I really need some advice. – CaseyLSwain, Type 3b/3c

Answer

Yes, you can still utilize the amazing benefits of vinegar by using distilled white vinegar. Distilled white vinegar is made from sun-ripened grains and clear water. If you are not allergic to grains then you are in the clear.

Both vinegars have beneficial attributes. ACV is slightly higher in vitamins and minerals and more often used in hair recipes, but that does not mean distilled white vinegar is not effective.

In most hair recipes that calls for ACV you can replace it with distilled white vinegar, as it will work just fine. The pH level is slightly more acidic than apple cider vinegar so you may need to dilute it with more water. This rinse will help to smooth the hair’s cuticle for enhanced shine. Also many women prefer ACV to distilled white vinegar, (DWV”> as the smell is less intense, but if the smell still too pungent simply add a favorite essential oil to help mask the smell or use more water in your hair recipe for a heavier dilution.

Read more about pH: Why Your Moisturizer Doesn’t Work

DWV is perfect for preserving hair color. Just mix ¼ cup of distilled white vinegar with ½ of filtered water and pour over your hair. Simply rinse with cool water and you are done. Trial and error will be your guide to find the correct measurement, tolerance, and happiness for you and your hair. Always consult with a medical professional about potential allergies or adverse reactions to anything.

Happy mixing!

Do you have a question about your curls? Post it here on our Curly Q&A board so that other curlies and our editors can weigh in. 

I know there are countless articles giving advice on humidity during spring and summer but if you live in the Gulf coast or an equally humid climate, then humidity is ever-present and you range from high to OMG-this-don’t-make-no-sense high humidity. I was relaxed when I was living in the Gulf Coast, before I became natural, and know just how frizzy one’s hair can get living there year-round. When I go back to visit I know my products may need to change, so when Kandy. Negus came to Curly Q&A with her problem I felt compelled to help. Unless you have lived in that kind of climate, you truly have no clue how it affects your hair.

Question

So I live on the gulf coast where it rains 50% of the time and we always have very high humidity. I cowash, squish to condish, scrunch in cream and gel and DT with coconut oil weekly. I know frizz is caused by lack of moisture in hair. Any suggestions for products or technique?

Answer

Yes, we’ve got you covered with products and techniques. As I have said before, a person’s curls, waves, and coils do not just have to factor genetics or age but geographical locale too, so take into account the seasons and the location when looking for techniques and products. Curly girls in ultra-humid climates battle frizz on a grander scale and more often than someone in a drier climate. No fret as there are tips to make those days go smoother (hair included”> and quicker.

Do not fight your hair’s natural texture

That just means work with your coily, wavy, and curly hair. Fighting its natural desire or need to stay in its natural state will only make the process frustrating, and sorry, but your hair is going to win. If you are dealing with ultra-humid days or months steer clear of the flat iron or straighter styles. Also, you will most likely have to deal with shrinkage and depending on your hair type it can go from a little to a lot! No need to fight it every day. Just let everything think you cut it and tomorrow when they see it longer they will be confused. Just call it having curly girl magic.

Make sure to DC regularly

Not just when it seems to be thirsty. Deep conditioning (DC”> should occur after every single, solitary washday. DC helps to keep the hair healthy so it can combat humid days, cold days, warm days and every other day in-between. Make it a weekly or bi-weekly routine and notice how your hair responds by styling, feeling, and looking better.

Lighter is not always better

Using light butters, gels, or mousses may be better for your hair during summer humidity or climates having little to no humidity, but heavier products are probably better options. No one says to be heavy handed but styling products like heavier gels and serums will better coat the hair, creating a barrier against the humidity.

When I go home to Louisiana I tend to bring my heavier gels and conditioners like Eco Styler Olive Oil Gel and conditioner with silicones. They work great for wash n go’s in those climates and while many of them may have silicones or proteins, they are not great for everyday use. They can cause buildup from silicones or even breakage from too many proteins if used excessively. If you live in humid climates, then consider incorporating styles that do not require much stretching.

Products for humid climates

• Eco Styler Gel (Olive oil or Moroccan Argan Oil”> 
• As I Am Twist Defining Cream
• Ouidad Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel
• Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea All Natural Curl Defining Crème 
• Bumble and Bumble Defrizz

Nothing beats good old-fashioned trial and error, but these products have been getting thumbs up for fighting humidity in a big way.

What’s your favorite products or techniques while living in a high humid climate?

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My sister recently learned that she is allergic to soy. Soy is one of the newest allergies to hit the allergy scene and it may have a lot to do with the fact that soy is used in over 60% of all processed foods and accounts for over 75% of American’s consumption of vegetable fats and oils. Soy is everywhere, or at the very least it seems like it is everywhere, making it a challenge to find products absent of soy if you are allergic to it. Believe it or not but being allergic to soy is a very common allergy, and although typical mild with symptoms like hives, rashes, or swelling of face, tongue, or throat to name a few, they can still cause severe discomfort for the individual suffering from it. 

It makes sense that if someone is suffering from a soy allergy that they take it further than just removing it from their food and also remove it from skin and hair products as well. Ninjaginga posed a pertinent question in the Curly Q&A  about products for soy allergy curlies.

Question

I have an allergy to soy. I had been using Deva Curl products without a problem until recently. I need to find a new product. I have thin/fine 3a curls. Help me please!

Answer

This is great question, as you are far from alone with your soy allergy. As manufacturers take more socially conscious steps to create the best quality products for their consumers, they realize the harm specific ingredients can pose on a sector of the population. With that in mind, they find alternative ingredients in an effort to formulate products that are accommodating for everyone’s hair and health needs. Here’s a list of great soy-free hair care products that you may want to try.

• Hugo Naturals has entire hair care line of shampoos, conditioners, and styling gel are not only soy-free but also vegan, gluten-free, and cruelty free. 
• Nature’s Gate  has started removing soy, GMOs, gluten, and corn, so remember to look at the ingredient lists to see if you have one of their newer formulas to determine if it contains soy. 
• California Baby products are free from soy, milk, eggs, peanuts, walnuts, and wheat. 
• Morrocoo Method Int’l  has an entire line that is cruelty-free and free from soy and gluten.  
• Original Sprout Vegan Hair and Skin Products 

They are soy, paraben, and petroleum oil free along with an extensive list of other ingredients they do not use in their products.

There are several lines that have specific products that are soy free like Babo Botanicals or Free and Clear. To be absolutely and positively certain if a product contains soy, make sure to read the back or contact their customer service line or email address. This list is by no means the only products or lines that do not contain soy but it is a great start to steering clear of soy and its derivatives. Remember to always consult your physician or dermatologist for guidance on finding products, as there may be derivatives you are not aware of.

Many curlies are looking for second and third-day hair detangling solutions, especially for wash and go’s. Unfortunately, that may cause more tangles, but that does not mean you have to forgo your wash and go style. Curlydish inquired about this very problem in Curly Q&A as she’s been battling with frizzy, tangled second and third-day hair. 

Question

I struggle with tangled hair especially on the second and third day. Any ideas? I have very frizzy and tangled hair on 2nd 3rd day even though I finger comb with conditioner when I wash my hair and I also sleep with a pineapple on a satin pillowcase. Any suggestions?

Answer

There are steps that can be taken to help keep your hair frizz-free, tangle-free, and fully moisturized on second, third, fourth-day hair.  You may need to switch up your nightly routine, get a trim, or stretch it out, but best believe your frizz and tangles do not have to make for an unhappy curly girl.

It may be time for a trim

Trims are necessary. Old, raggedy ends will tangle and create knots. The only fix is to trim them away. If you are noticing more tangles than usual, it may be your hair’s way of telling you it is time to pull out the shears or head to your favorite stylist. Do not tarry as you do not want to waste time and hairs by letting them tangle and break. Holding onto split, raggedy, damaged ends is not how you retain length, so remove them and allow your healthy hair to thrive.

Pineapples are not the only way to preserve hair at night

Sometimes pineapples are not the way to go for your nighttime routine. Try Bantu knots to tuck the hair away and keep them from rubbing against your linen, other hairs, or clothing. If your hair is in dire need of a trim, those ends will be more susceptible to tangling, so be vigilant on keeping them out of sight until you can either get to those shears or in your stylist’s chair. Tucking those ends away will also help with keeping them from frizzing up too.

Try stretched styles

You may also want to enlist in a roller-set, twists, braids, or straight styles that will stretch the hair and lessen tangles. Stretched hair has fewer tangles, so that may be an option if your ends are great and your hair is just more prone to tangles. Many naturals live by the stretched styles to combat tangles and often will re-twist hair at night to keep the hair in a stretched and/or de-tangled state.

Refresh your hair

I know many think refreshing your hair on day 2, 3, or even 4 after wash day is to moisturize, but it also loosens any knots or tangles that may be trying to form. Using a refresher or your favorite spray bottle concoction may be all you need to moisturize your strands and keep them from creating friction. Many curlies refresh their hair on the second day and beyond, so do not feel you are doing something wrong because your hair does not look like the first day. Whether it is allowing the steam from the shower to moisturize your strands or using your favorite spray bottle concoction, allow your hair to revive itself with a little help and you will see fewer tangles.

Proper sealing

Cleansing and conditioning are essential but not enough to keep the hair moisturized and frizz-free. You need to seal in the moisture with natural oils, so the hair will be less likely to tangle in the days after. You can always seal at night prior to putting your hair in a pineapple or covering it with a satin bonnet or satin scarf for better second, third, and even fourth day hair. No one says you have to seal nightly but give it a try for a few nights, and if you notice a huge difference in the temperament of your hair when it comes to tangles, then it may need to become a regular nightly regimen.

Ok, curlies, do you have a special way you combat tangles and frizz on second and third-day hair?

Manketti oil is also known as Mongongo oil and it comes from the nuts of the Mongongo trees that can be found in southern Africa. The Mongongo tree fares particularly well in the deep sands of the Kalahari and is tough in nature, as it can survive droughts and massive ranges in temperatures even in the same day. Its botanical name is Schinziophyton rautanenii and belongs to the Euphorbiaceae family. Valued for centuries for its nutritive value, this amazing oil is highly emollient and has been loved for protecting skin and hair. The tree does not bear fruit until it is 25 years old and the flowers begin to bloom and bear their oval, plum-like fruit in late October. The green fuzzy fruit fall from the trees around April until May where they continue to mature.  

Elephants and kadu love the sweet fruit that goes from green to brown as it matures on the ground. It then has a more softening flesh and a date-like flavor. The kadu regurgitate the nuts leaving them in neat piles while the elephants defecate the nuts and this actually makes it easier for collection.

The power of the seeds

As you have probably figured out, it is the seeds that are treasured and the seeds are roasted and then cracked to remove the outer shell while leaving the inner shell intact. It has a high content of linoleic acid (between 30% and 54%”>, lots of vitamin E and Omega 6, copper, iron, calcium, and magnesium. This stable oil is ideal for long-term storage, as it does not go rancid like other popular oils. Each seed has at least 30% oil with most of it being the skin-enhancing linoleic acid. There is a protein content around 25% with a fat content around 50%. It can and is used in cooking, but its claim to fame is in skin and hair products.

Benefits of manketti oil for hair

The greatest benefit would be the extra-high content of linoleic acid and has oleic acid, which is another hair asset. According to Sister Scientist, “Oleic and linoleic acid are saturated fatty acids that a make up the backbone of many of the natural oils and sebum. As standalone ingredients, they still have properties to condition the hair and skin and help to unblock pores on the scalp.” Manketti oil is ideal for conditioning hair because it has hydrating, regenerating, and restructuring properties for the hair and scalp with the vitamin E content making it a natural sunscreen. The polyunsaturated components give hair a vibrant look and feel, as it soaks into the outer layer of the hair staving off the negative effects from the sun as well as heat applications like blow-drying. It is an excellent choice for reducing inflammation and promoting cellular repair, and although there are plenty of oils on the market with these same abilities, this is an overall amazing hair and scalp oil that is great for adding to any hair moisturizing formula.

This oil is making a buzz in the natural hair world and not just from the naturals. Product makers who are taking heed from the natural elements in our resourceful world are including Manketti oil into their ingredient list for hair products. This oil can be used alone for oil massages and sealants but we have a long list of products that makes it easier for you to enlist this oil into your hair care regimen.

Read more: Mongongo oil: An Exotic Emollient for Natural Hair

Products with mongongo oil

• AG Hair Cosmetics Smoothing Balm
• Ouidad Mongongo Oil Multi-use Hair Treatment
• Mongongo & Banana Deep Conditioning Hair Masque
• Mop Top Kumquat Essence Mongongo Oil
• Mielle Organics Mongongo Oil Hydrating Conditioner
• Mielle Organics Mongongo Oil Pomade-To-Oil Treatment
• Mielle Organics Mongongo Oil Exfoliating Shampoo

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Texturizers are nothing new to women with afro-textured hair and in fact have been around longer than the natural hair movement. In the 1990’s, most women of color were relaxed and if you wanted something outside of straight or full-fledge natural you opted for a texturizer, and it was often used for short hair. Also, it wasn’t like an actual product but rather the same relaxer being applied to your hair with only a fraction of the time to process.  

A texturizer will loosen your curl pattern without the intensity of a relaxer, but this will not convert your Type 4 hair into a Type 3. Everyone one’s hair processes differently. Yussy in Curly Q&A wants to know more about texturizers to reduce the maintenance of her Type 4a hair.

Question

I will like to know the side effects of texturizing a 4a type hair. I have a 4a type hair which is hard for me to maintain, I am thinking of texturizing it.  Please what are the side effects of texturizing natural hair?

Answer

First, let’s discuss what a texturizer is. A texturizer/texlax is a processing cream designed to help loosen tightly coiled hair. Often compared to a relaxer, which is also a processing cream, but the difference is the texturizer is left on the hair for a much shorter time than a relaxer. Both products contain sodium hydroxide (lye”> or calcium hydroxide (no-lye”> and neither is great for your strands. Those powerful chemicals can cause breakage, scalp damage, or hair loss, but in all fairness you do not need chemicals to cause those types of damages.

All curls, coils, and waves require work with cleansing, conditioning, sealing, and protecting. Maintenance for a texturizer includes touch-ups, conditioning, and protein treatments. Here’s what you can expect when you decide to texturize your hair:

Weaker strands

Hair is more fragile when chemicals are applied and the harsh chemicals used in texturizers and relaxers are some of the hardest chemicals to apply to your hair. This is how chemist JC from The Natural Haven explains relaxers:

“Relaxers involve swelling of the cortex which happens when the relaxer separates the bonds within the proteins of the fibrils…The cortex of the hair is significantly weakened due to expansion and bond breaking. The strength of relaxed hair is around 30-50% less than untreated hair…The cuticle is damaged by lifting (which can also break/chip or tear the cuticle”>. This has two effects. First and increase in porosity – meaning the hair can take up more water and hence expand even more (Cosmetic and Toileteries Magazine, Vol. 117, No. 11, 2002″>. Second the oil layers of the cuticle are disrupted. This is thought to contribute to the weakness of the hair cuticle in relaxed hair.(Int. J of Cosmetic Science, pg 1-12, 2002″>.”

Varying degrees of results with touch-ups

There is no magic brand that will give you uniform loosened curls and you can end up with strands from fairly or extremely loose. There is no clear method that will yield the type of curl you prefer. Some users have ended up with completely straightened and/or frizzy hair with no curls in site. The bottom line is you cannot gain curls from a box or a cream for that matter. The object of a texturizer is to loosen the pre-determined curl, coil, or wave pattern you already have and that does not create curls.

Going to a professional is a highly recommended

There are plenty of self-kits for texturizers but as the results are varying you may have a better chance for achieving what you want with a professional. Now, they cannot guarantee exactly what you want either, but a professional hairstylist skilled with texturizers will be your best bet for less damaging effects and a uniform application of the product to your strands. They also can work quickly, as the product is best not done with self-application.

The bottom line

It is a chemical process and like all chemical processes some degree of damage will occur. You are also never guaranteed on what type of loosened curl you will get and that goes double for touch-ups. At least with a relaxer you are getting bone straight hair, but when just trying to loosen a pattern, you are at the mercy of the product during that particular application.

There are plenty of women who have tried them, used them regularly and quite happy, but on the flip side to that there are plenty of women who wish they never came near one.  Adding a texturizer will not automatically give you easier hair to manage but rather a loosened curl, coil, or wave pattern that require more care because it is chemically processed. Make sure you are ready for the varying results and necessary upkeep.  With those points in mind you can decide if a texturizer is for you.

Corn oil has been put on the back burner as far as healthy options in the kitchen and for hair care. With superior oils like olive, coconut, neem, and papaya seed oils gaining popularity, common oils get pushed to the wayside. One such oil that often gets overlooked in beauty is corn oil or often called maize oil. Corn oil is extracted from the germ (the small germinating part of the seed”> of the corn. Corn oil can be extracted numerous ways but cold pressing helps to retain the oil’s health boosting phytochemicals. This is also the most expensive method, but the oil is natural, organic, and highly beneficial. 

Benefits of corn oil

This edible oil, which is commonly used in cooking, is high in polyunsaturated fatty acids and low on saturated fat. Its vitamin E attribute makes it a strong antioxidant. Many experts love this oil because of its natural anti-cholesterol abilities. It actually lowers the LDL blood cholesterol. Corn oil has linoleic acid, which is superb as an immunostimulant and maintaining proper functioning of the heart, kidneys, liver, digestive, and reproductive systems. Just like olive oil, it reduces blood pressure post consumption in hypertensive patients.

Why corn oil is great for hair

Corn oil is not just great for our bodies, but it is superior at caring for your curly, coily, and wavy hair. It is rich in Omegas 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids, contains vitamins E and K, and full of phytosterols. What does that all add up to?

Heavy on the moisture

Corn oil helps to lock in your hair’s moisture by preventing dryness, especially on the ends. It is a natural emollient that will moisturize the scalp and hair by keeping the hair follicles hydrated and well nourished. Corn oil is also great for adding sheen to dull strands.

Improve blood flow to hair follicles

The high presence of vitamin E not only blocks the free radicals from the environment, but it also helps improve blood circulation to the hair follicles and nourish your strands. The vitamin E helps to prevent cell damage and the vitamin K helps the absorption of calcium and that aids in preventing hair loss if you a calcium deficiency.

Gain softer strands and a healthier scalp

Using corn oil as a hot oil treatment will import that perfect balance of omega-3 and omega-6 that controls inflammation and staves off dryness on your scalp. You gain not only a healthier scalp but also softer hair.

Great carrier oil for essential oil

Corn oil is perfect for blending with essential oils like rosemary or tea tree oil in hot oil treatments or even oil massages.

Corn oil pre-poo

Corn oil overnight conditioning is a great way to get softer and more moisturized strands.  It is also great for loosening any stubborn tangles. Apply to hair and scalp (sparingly as it can go a long way”> and cover with a plastic cap and then scarf. Shampoo and style as usual in the morning.

Add to shampoo

Simply add 1 to 2 tablespoons to a shampoo session making sure to smooth it down the length of your strands. Leave in hair for about 5 min. before washing out. Make sure to only add to the shampoo for the cleansing and not to the bottle itself.

Hot oil massage

Warm the corn oil and apply to scalp massaging in circular motions before going to bed.  Cover with a shower cap and scarf and leave overnight before washing in the morning.  Great for bringing more circulation to the scalp and will help with mild inflammations.

Products with corn oil

• Ouidad Curl Quencher Moisturizing Shampoo
• Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Mask
• Carol’s Daughter Tui Hair Oil

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Gray hair can have a stubborn mind of its own and a snarky personality to boot! A few things cause gray hair with normal aging being a big factor. Dr. Anthony Oro explains in Good Housekeeping that “Fifty percent of the population has about 50% gray hair at age 50. This is called the 50-50-50 rule. Other causes of gray hair are genetics, stress, and smoking. Many women embrace gray hair, while some want nothing to do with them.

Transitioning to gray is a lot like transitioning to natural, as they both require dealing with a different texture that may (and probably will be”> either be straighter, curlier, or wirier than what you have been used to. So, what if you are going gray and transitioning to natural at the same time? Berrijunki wanted to know if it is possible and inquired in our Curly Q&A section.

Question

Is there any advice you can give me concerning transitioning gray hair maintenance? Some health issues and medication caused my hair to come out last year, so I decided to go ahead and transition my aged gray hair. It is probably 3C fine hair and very porous. It absorbs everything and stays dry most of the time. It is easy to straighten and my scalp has never produced much oil on its own. I began by cutting off about 8 in. of my hair – that was last October – it has grown back now and it is beginning to thicken again some. I will probably never wear it curly. Mostly I just wear it pulled back in a ponytail. I wish there was more info on gray hair styles and maintenance. I’m willing to try anything.

Answer

Yes, there are tips on caring for your gray hair as well as beautiful hairstyles that compliment your grays. In this world where everyone wants to look at least 20 years younger, sometimes you have to look outside of mainstream media for beauty inspiration, and as curlies we already know this to be true for our own curls. Here are some tips for maintaining grays as well as how to rock them.

Moisture is king

It is the number one priority hair and skin health. Unfortunately, gray hair tends to be drier than hair with pigment and the cuticle tends to be rougher. Be gentler by using sulfate-free shampoos. Never skip on the deep conditioners and splurge on rich, moisturizing conditioners and deep conditioners.

Let it shine

When hair goes gray (it doesn’t actually go gray, but grows in gray”> it loses its shine so try shampoos and conditioner that are specifically for grays as they work on shine and gray discolorations. Try light serums and glosses to give hair that shine it may have lost when it lost its pigment but do not use products that cause buildup or weigh down the hair.

Look to the fashion and hair experts for styles and confidence

Sometimes all you need is a little encouragement and examples to see just how gorgeous your grays will look when you see others rocking theirs. Check out the Top 8 Gracefully Grace Curlies You Should Follow. Also consider getting a great cut to give your hair great volume. Get a great cut for your curls like the Deva Cut or a tailored cut by a curly hairstylist to give your hair volume and proper density. Any style is great for gray hair.  Just adding the right cut, and proper maintenance will look amazing.

Care for your gray from the inside and out

Berrijunki mentioned she had health issues. Many problems with our hair come from our health and/or medications, so try and stay healthy by eating right, exercising, and eliminating stress. This will not only do wonders for the overall health of your hair, but also give your grays the moisture, shine, and life it needs to look its best.

Rock the right makeup and trendy glasses

This is just lagniappe (bonus”> but all the fashion experts insist on not allowing your grays to make your face look washed out by adding pops of color to your makeup like sweeps of bronzer and pops of blush. Also, if you wear glasses make sure your frames are stylish and not giving you a granny look. Avoid frames that are brown or yellow (this includes gold”> and colors like bright red, navy, or black will give your grays a more platinum and less gray.

The world of DIY is paved with good intentions and many, if not most, of those intentions create remarkable and useful products. I love the DIYers in the natural hair world, as they create amazing concoctions for the rest of us to try, fall in love with, and rave about. DIYers have such vision, patience, and drive. I love it! One such popular DIY recipe is soap making and it is used for practical purposes all the way to gift giving. If you are a novice to DIY here is a lesson on soap making with coconut.

What is soap?

Soap is a combination of animal fat or plant oil and a caustic soda. When dissolved in water it breaks down dirt and washes it away from surfaces. No one is actually sure of the origin of the word “soap” and the first chemical saponification, but according to 00193-6/fulltext” target=”_blank”>Dr. Ronni Wolf, soap making became an art during the time of Phoenicians or 600 B.C. and went through significant advancement in the Mediterranean countries where olive oil was boiled with the alkali ashes. The two major raw materials required to make soap are fat and alkali. The most commonly used alkali used today is sodium hydroxide. Another popular one is potassium hydroxide. Fat used in the past was animal fat whereas modern soap makers use fat that has been processed into fatty acids. Add a few additives to enhance color, texture, and scent and you have today’s soap.

How is soap made?

First off, completely understanding the chemistry of soap making is not necessary. Here is the basic formula for making all kinds of soaps: fatty acid (oil”> + base (lye”> = “a salt” (soap”>

No matter the method or the ingredients, make sure you accurately weigh the ingredients, use a proper technique, and stick to the formula in the recipe. Despite not being rocket science, respect for the craft and recipe is necessary as you will be working with chemicals, hot temperatures (for some methods”>, and ingredients that can be harmful if ingested or make contact with your skin, namely the lye. Always use caution and never rush.

Why coconut oil soap is a good soap for curlies?

Many curlies love coconut oil. It is rich in vitamins and nutrients and can nourish dry strands with ease. It is great for sealing, pre-pooing, detangling, fighting frizz, and moisturizing. If wanting to simply use only coconut oil in your soap, then you can enlist superfatting and to combat the drying effect of the coconut oil. Superfatting is adding extra oil to the recipe that is in excess of what the lye can bind to so that extra oil is not converted. Adding 20% more coconut oil than the lye allows your soap to turn into a luxurious body bar. Note, this can’t be used with most vegetable oils as they can go rancid but coconut oil has a high shelf life, which makes it a good candidate for superfatting.

Now, let me address the confusion some may be having over coconut oil soap being used on hair. Yes, it can and yes many have tried it and loved it  because it really is just like a shampoo bar but can be used all over your body. If you are looking for an all-over body bar for curlies, then coconut oil soap is the one to get. I know I am not the only one who sees head-to-toe body bars, but for curlies we have to enlisted ingredients complementary to our texture and this recipe is it!

Watch

Textured hair is diverse, including women who have thick, thin, tight, loose, wavy, coily, and springy and even a mass of coils, curls, and waves in one head. We love turning to nature for our hair care needs and what it can do for our curls. It has only been within the last decade that curls got a lot of attention from manufactures and hair care companies. We’ve had to enlist nature for many of our hair care needs, and although many companies have jumped on the curly girl bandwagon as viable consumers, we still love what Mother Nature can do for our coils, curls, and waves.  

One such wonder from Mother Nature is sea salt or sodium chloride. It is produced by the evaporation of ocean water or water from saltwater lakes. Depending upon the actual water source after a little processing, there are certain trace minerals and elements left behind and they add flavor and color to sea salt, according to Katherine Zeratsky. Sea salt is different from table salt in taste, texture, and processing. The darker the sea salt the higher the concentration of “impurities” and trace nutrients.  

Sea salt is great for exfoliation, as it can remove dead skin cells from your scalp. This encourages peripheral blood circulation and helps in skin or scalp renewal. Many use it as a natural remedy for treating psoriasis and dandruff. Sea salt is also great for absorbing excess oils from hair and scalps. It is used quite often for volume and bounce, hence why it is associated with big, beach waves or beach hair. Big, voluminous hair and exfoliation are the two main reasons this is a popular resource and now here are top products with sea salt that you should consider.

Build volume

Lush Big Sea Salt Shampoo is a vegan bodybuilding shampoo that uses the degreasing effects of sea salt, extra virgin coconut oil, and avocado butter to give a perfectly balanced shampoo. Lush added fresh citrus juices to increase shine and boost your hair’s volume in no time.

Gently cleanse

Sea salt, sage, yarrow root, and olive oil come together in this perfect Total Body Black Earth Shampoo by Taliah Waajid. Restore moisture, balance, and clean hair of any texture with the power of essential oils and sea salt.

Exfoliate your scalp

The Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt has a moisturizing formula enriched with sea salt to effectively cleanse and exfoliate even the most sensitive scalps. Gain hydration while detoxing to restore your scalp and hair’s oil balance. This is a great product for a post-coloring treatment to relieve stinging and itching while removing any excess chemical residues.

Refresh 2nd day hair

If your curls or waves have been flattended by sleeping on them, bring them back to live by spraying a light hold, moisturizing sea salt spray while scrunching your curls. Ouidad brings sea salt and natural seawater to your volume-deprived curls in this beach curls in a bottle, Wave Create Sea Spray. This curl-focused blend nourishes your strands while keeping them hydrated and locking in moisture.

Soft curl definition

Add texture, volume, and beach waves with the help of Drybar Mai Tai Spritzer Sea Salt Spray‘s seal salt, aloe, and algae formula. Just the right amount of goodness to give softness for a real beach vibe. This will give your waves or loose curls soft, touchable hold without weighing them down. You can also make your own DIY sea salt spray.

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We tend to worry about our hair more than our scalp, but if you expect to have healthy hair it most definitely starts with a healthy scalp. The scalp is skin, but it is more than just the skin our hairs grow out of. It requires proper maintenance just like our hair, but before you can fully understand what it needs you need to know what it is. 

According to Dr. Christopher Harris, the scalp consists of five layers: the skin, connective tissue, epicranial aponeurosis, loose areolar tissue, and pericranium. The scalp skin is some of the thickest skin on the body and it carries more blood than the rest of the skin. It has an abundance of sebaceous glands, which secrete sebum into the hair follicle to lubricate the scalp and hair. Because of the abundance of sebaceous glands, it is important to clean the scalp thoroughly, because if oil builds up, it can clog the hair follicles or cause certain forms of dandruff.

Most assume just washing your hair and scalp with shampoo is enough to properly cleanse the scalp, but some need an exfoliation or the removal of the oldest dead skin cells that cling to the outermost surface or epidermis. The products used between wash day accumulate on the hair shaft and scalp. A scalp mask, exfoliant, scrub, or treatment used regularly to stimulate blood flow and remove product buildup. Here are ten of the best scalp scrubs you should consider incorporating in your regimen.

Alterna Caviar Exfoliating Scalp Facial 

This scalp facial claims to exfoliate with microbeads that help dislodge flakes while purifying the scalp. This exfoliator is formulated with hydrogenated jojoba oil in the first five ingredients and is a emulsifier, and skin conditioner. This scalp facial is specifically designed for sufferers of a dry, flaky scalp.

Brocato Peppermint Scrub Restorative Hair & Scalp Masque 

Harness the power of peppermint with this masque to remove environmental pollutants, products, medications, minerals, and chemicals. A soiled scalp will be detoxified while the dull hair will be left with life and luster. A tight scalp with minimal circulation becomes revitalized and full of energy.

Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt 

A favorite scalp scrub with sea salt, this purifying scrub will detox, cleanse, and rebalance a sensitive or overly oily scalp. Great for removing any chemical residue left after color treatments, this scrub uses the natural exfoliating power of sea salt to eliminate impurities and support natural blood micro-circulation.

Keranique Micro-Exfoliating Follicle Mask 

This exfoliating mask can be used as a scalp mask or even a deep treatment before shampooing. It will gently exfoliate the scalp without weighing down fine strands. This gentle mask will remove product and environmental buildup while nourishing your strands.

Kiehl’s Deep Micro-exfoliating Scalp Treatment w/ Argan Exfoliators 

Dandruff problems are the main focus of this scalp treatment, as it controls the dandruff while promoting a healthy scalp. This exfoliator uses apricot and argan to gently exfoliate and balance a dandruff-ridden scalp leaving it stimulated and healthy.

Organic Root Stimulator Scalp Scrub Stimulating Formula for Hair and Scalp

Organic Root Stimulator Scalp Scrub will unclog and gently exfoliate with essential herbs to increase circulation and add life to a weathered scalp. Sulfur-rich nutrients are applied to the scalp to rejuvenate the follicles and give your hair a healthy environment to thrive.

Ouidad Mediterranean Bay Leaf Exfoliating Hair & Scalp Treatment

Here is an exfoliating treatment infused with natural AHA complex of apple extracts, lemon, and sugar cane for a gentle yet effective exfoliation. A dual-action formula cleans the scalp of buildup while delivering nutrients the hair roots. This exfoliator is great for seriously oily or parched-dry scalps.

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Hair And Scalp Treatment Unisex 

Great for all hair types, this hair and scalp treatment soothes and treats an irritated scalp while moisturizing and conditioning your curls. This treatment is cool and refreshing with the goodness of Australian tea tree oil.

Philip Kingsley Exfoliating Scalp Mask 

This Philip Kingsley mask contains organic aloe vera to help minimize flaking of the scalp while soothing and softening dryness. With over 50 years of trichological expertise under their belt, Philip Kingsley created a mask that adds maximum scalp and hair benefits.

Simple Brown Sugar Scalp Scrub

You don’t have to use a store-bought product to make your scalp feel incredible. You can make your own with these two accessible pantry products:

• 3 Tbsp. brown sugar
• 2 Tbsp. coconut or olive oil

Mix ingredients and apply to scalp. Massage gently throughout your entire scalp. Rinse and shampoo as usual.

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We love discussing all forms of hair care and one big component of that is the real problem thousands if not millions of women face when fighting breast cancer (or any form of cancer”> is hair loss during chemotherapy and radiation therapy. One more problem to deal with but the very products we love, cherish, and purchase are aware of this and they give back. They donate products to those in need and not just for cancer. Here is just a small list of brands that donate their products to a greater cause.

Curls 

Curls regularly donates hair products to local universities and women’s shelters.

Curlformers

Curlformers works with a children’s charity called the Little Princess Trust. They provide real hair wigs for girls and boys who have lost their hair through cancer treatment.

Jessicurl

Jessicurl regularly donates products to various fundraisers, shelters, and natural hair events.

Here are just a handful of the causes that Jessicurl has donated products to in the past year:

• Arcata High’s Safe and Sober Fundraising Auction (Arcata, CA”>
• Special Olympics Fundraiser (Eureka, CA”>
• Keep a Child Alive Benefit Auction – Hosted by Oly Curl in Olympia, WA
• St. Joseph Hospital Dinner and Auction in support of St. Joseph’s Cancer Care Program (Eureka, CA”>
• Mother’s Refuge (shelter/safe haven for mothers and children”>

Mixed Chicks 

Mixed Chicks donates hair products to local shelters, schools, and even jails.

It is not just hair brands that take the giving back to the community. Here are Hair extension companies that also give back.

Heat Free Hair Movement

Heat Free Hair Movement donates wigs annually during Breast Cancer Awareness Month. People can nominate their loved ones who experience hair loss from chemotherapy and breast cancer treatment and then several winners are selected to receive a wig unit.

King Me hair

In observance of National Breast Cancer Month, King Me Hair donates wigs to women who have lost their hair when treating themselves from Breast Cancer.

Fingercomber

Fingercomber has donated units and wefted hair to ladies suffering with all forms of hair loss.

This is only a few that give back in silent ways to those in need during some of the worst events and tragedies in their personal lives. It takes love, appreciate for life, and gratitude for the purchases of their products that allows them to return the favor, kindness, and love. As we remember those we love and may have lost or fighting the battle of Breast Cancer, know that the very products you use are also helping those in need.

Now, I’ve heard of a hooded dryer and I’ve heard of a hair steamer. You know what I have not heard of? A hooded hair steamer! Pardon my ignorance as I think I know a tad bit about hair, but I was blown away when I saw Chriistiina’s question on the Curly Q&A board. 

Question

Does anyone know a good hooded hair steamer?

Answer

Hair steaming is a true game-changer that many curlies, coilies, and wavies are beginning to swear by. You hear pro-steamers claiming hair is more elastic, less prone to breakage, shedding, and dryness. Hair steaming is exactly as it sounds. You are adding moisture to the hair in the form of moist heat. From hand-held steamers to hooded steamers to standing in a steamy shower, there are a few ways to add the benefit of heat and moisture to stave off dryness and breakage. Many curlies already know and love the Q-Redew hand-held steamer (me included”>, but if that is not the option you prefer then we have three hooded steamers that may peak your moisture-obsessed interest.

Salon Sundry Professional Salon Hair Steamer with Rolling Floor Stand Base

The Salon Sundry Professional Salon Steamer is lightweight, stainless steel, and has 650 watts of heating power; you are sure to love this hooded steamer. It has adjustable heights and wheels so it is easy to move. This steamer has two power levels, a swiveling hood, and is designed to work with regular tap water. This steamer is under $100, making it affordable compared to other steamers.

Huetiful Hair Steamer

These have become hugely popular with curlies and naturals. They are designed for our unique waves, curls, and coils and claims to restore moisture to dry hair five times better than any leading deep conditioner. This portable dual hair and facial steamer is a gem and is always in high demand so you have to get it while it is available. It has gone down in price over the last few years and depending on whether you are in the states or in Europe you can get it for under $150.

Secura S-192 Hair and Facial Steamer

If Huetiful is too rich for your blood and wallet, then you may want the other table-top steamer on the list. This hair and facial steamer is hugely popular, has a built-in ozone generator, and boasts of improving the absorption of conditioners and other treatments. They also claim it can be used for interior humidifying so for under $100 you really get a 3-1 steamer with this beauty.

Do you have a hooded steamer?

4C hair is beautiful and easy to care for as long as you know how to properly clean, moisturize, and maintain it. The best advice you can get on maintaining 4c hair is from women who have plenty of experience with it. Although everyone’s hair is unique, watching others’ trials can reduce the stress of finding what works for you. So we reached out to community favorites, 4c vloggers Lulu, Kriss, Jessica, and Jenn to share their hair care do’s and don’ts that have been successes and failures of their regimens.  

Pure Estrogen (LuLu”>

• Follow the directions on your products. The idea of deep conditioning overnight sounds great, but it really doesn’t do much for your hair.
• Work your product into your hair to make it easier to detangle and give it extra stretch before styling.
• Don’t wash hair that hasn’t been detangled. Semi-stretched knotted hair is bad enough as it is. Try removing the knots from perfectly shrunken kinks.
• Don’t comb dry or soaking wet hair. Lightly moisturize or spritz to make it pliable. Fingerdetangle each time that you can get away with it.

NaturalMe4C (Kriss”>

• Use moisturizing products. 4C hair is usually very dry naturally, so using anything harsh won’t be beneficial when it comes to retaining moisture.
• Cleanse your scalp thoroughly. 4C hair is known for having lots of shrinkage.  As soon as water hits the tightly coiled strands, up it goes! Be sure your products/fingers are reaching your scalp to properly cleanse away dirt and product buildup. A good tool to try is the Vanity Planet Scalp Massaging Shampoo Brush. It works great on wash days.
• Don’t pile your coils on top of your head and rub products on your hair. This can cause excessive tangling, single strand knots, and frizz. Not to mention, it can be a nightmare to detangle and style later!
• Use a product that has lots of slip. Whether you fingerdetangle or you like to use hair tools, slip will not only save time, but it will allow most knots and tangles to unravel easily without excess strain. A great inexpensive detangler is Silkience Silky-Smooth Conditioner. 
• Don’t rip through knots and tangles! If you feel a knot with your fingers/hair tool, stop and use your fingers to gently remove strands from the knot. Doing so will prevent unnecessary breakage. You may find that the root of the entire knot was only a couple strands.
• Don’t overuse styling products. This can lead to crunchy, greasy, weighed down, stiff, and or frizzy hair. Most of the time, a little product goes a long way.

Jessica Pettway

• Wash your hair often! Water is a kinky girl’s best friend.
• Don’t think negatively about your texture. Embrace it and your hair will love you for it. 
• Trim your hair regularly. Trimmed ends make styling easier.
• Don’t use lathering shampoos too often. These type of shampoos dry kinky hair out and can result in breakage.
• Deep condition every week. If you want healthy hair, don’t skip this step.
• Don’t limit your styling because of your texture. Explore as many options as possible and have fun with your kinks.
• Wash your hair with conditioners or creamy shampoos. This will give your hair the added moisture and slip needed for kinky textures.
• Explore a stylish cut and shaping. This will give your kinks a whole new life.

Jenn J.

• Minimal manipulation is key for my hair to thrive. I am very gentle with my strands so I make sure to wash my hair in twists and fingerdetangle over 90% of the time. This has made a tremendous change in my ends. In addition, deep conditioning is an absolute must. 4C hair craves moisture, but don’t expect to achieve maximum moisture retention overnight. Moisture is a journey. You have to be consistent to achieve moisturized hair so I deep condition every week. 
• Avoid drying products such as hard gels and daily styling. Typically, I will do a style that I know can last at least a week such as twists and updos.

The word surfactant is a shortened form of “surface-active agent” and is a chemical that stabilizes mixtures of oil and water by reducing tension. Most think that their main objective is to remove dirt, excess sebum, and oil from the scalp and hair, but that is just one type of surfactant. All surfactants are not the same and behave differently. Some cleanse while others smooth the hair’s cuticle and create a smoother texture for soft curls.  

Surfactants can be divided into four groups, according to their ionic nature:

• Anionic surfactants carry a negative charge when ionized and provide lather and detergency in the shampoo.  
• Cationic surfactants carry a positive charge when ionized and are mostly used in conditioners, as they are not easily removed during the rinsing process and form the basis of conditioning. 
• Nonionic surfactants have no charge to the molecule. According to Sister Scientist: “These types of surfactants are not ideal for cleansing, but are used primarily to modify the level of foam and aid in solubility. Cocamide MEA and coco glucoside are examples of this type of surfactant.”
• Amphoteric surfactants carry both positive and negative charges when ionized. They are popular in shampoos now, as they are very useful for decreasing the irritancy while also increasing the active contents of the lather produced. They are mild and often used in baby shampoos. 

There is a negative perception about surfactants because they are mostly associated with sulfates. Sulfates are surfactants but not all surfactants are sulfates. We have broken down six well-known surfactants that not only nourish the hair but also make detangling easier.

Behentrimonium methosulfate

Naturally derived from rapeseed oil, this mild yet effective quaternary ammonium compound ingredient is known and appreciated for its detangling properties. This surfactant is often formulated in conditioners to smooth out the hair cuticles and condition them. Also acting as an emulsifier, behentrimonium methosulfate is gentle and can often be found in baby products and other lotions and creams for supple skin. Here are two curly hair products with behentrimonium methosulfate: Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment and Blended Beauty’s Curl Quenching Conditioner.

Behentrimonium chloride

A cationic quaternary ammonium compound made from canola oil, behentrimonium chloride is a cleaning/conditioning agent that will detangle, fight static, and soften strands. This plant-based surfactant deposits on the hair to provides potent conditioning effects with its waxy texture, which makes it ideal for defrizzing and emulsifying. Try these two products formulated with behentrimonium chloride: SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner and L’Oreal Paris EverSleek Sulfate-Free Smoothing System Smoothing Deep Conditioner.

Cetrimonium chloride

This cationic compound and conditioning agent is mainly used to prevent static and buildup in hair. It cleanses and eliminates odor by preventing the growth of microorganisms and enabling water to mix with dirt and rinse away. If found in conditioner, then you probably have a great co-wash. It can also be found in hair dye, shampoos, conditioners, styling gels, mousse, and detanglers. Check out these two products with cetrimonium chloride: Nioxin Scalp Therapy, System 4 Scalp Therapy Conditioner and Silicon MIX Intensive Hair Deep Treatment.

Dicetyldimonium chloride

Another cationic quaternary ammonium compound that is gentle but effective in cleaning hair and removing buildup. It is a hair conditioning, anti-static, emulsifying agent that is quite often found in co-washes. These two conditioners are formulated with dicetyldimonium chloride: Sta-Sof-Fro Rub On Hair & Scalp Conditioner with Special Softeners & Moisturizers and Tigi Catwalk Fashionista Conditioner Safe For Color.

Stearalkonium chloride

This ingredient is derived from stearic acid, a fatty acid found in plants and animals. It is extremely effective as a conditioner and softener with low eye irritation. It is also used in hair bleaches, rinses, setting lotions, and conditioners. It also adds luster to the hair. Here are these two products with stearalkonium chloride: Manic Panic Electric Yellow Cream Hair Color and Avlon KeraCare Humecto Crème Conditioner.

Cetrimonium bromide

Cetrimonium bromide is an emulsifier that prevents static buildup that causes flyaway hair. Really great for damaged hair, this ingredient is small enough to be absorbed into the damaged areas of the hair. Check out these two products with cetrimonium bromide: I.C.O.N. Respond Anti-Aging Conditioner and Burt’s Bees Hair Repair Shea & Grapefruit Deep Conditioner.

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