Search Results: Sabrina Perkins
1. Dimethicone
I have to say that my hair has a love-hate relationship with this ingredient. I use it sparingly as it will give my hair the movement and slip that most love from silicones but I can only use it repeatedly a few days in a row before it causes massive buildup and the flakes. That is why I switched from TRESemme Curl Hydration to TRESemme Naturals Aloe Vera and Avocado Nourishing Moisture Conditioner.
2. Jamaican black castor oil
A few years back I was dealing with thinning edges due to excessively wearing box braid and not giving my hair a break in-between installations. My fault no doubt, but I tried applying Jamaican black castor oil (JBCO”> to my edges to help thicken them out. It was effective, but what I also noticed little bumps on my face and along my hairline. I was perplexed for the longest trying to figure out what was going on. I have acne-prone skin, making me careful about what I use on my face. It took weeks for me to realize it was the JBCO that was breaking me out and once I stopped, the bumps disappeared. I steer clear of castor oil altogether now.
Read more: Are Your Curly Products Causing Acne?
3. Mineral oil
This clear, odorless oil derived from petroleum is widely used in cosmetics as an emollient. All it does for me is clog the pores (skin and scalp”> and create dryness as I have tried it in natural hair products when I first went natural. It is too heavy for my hair and I have opted to not even use it on my skin despite it not being the big, bad ingredient many have labeled it. For me, my hair hates it and that’s reason enough to leave it alone.
4. Fragrance
It could be a coincidence or I may be paranoid but whenever I use a hair product that has fragrance in the first six ingredients, my hair does not readily care for it and I do not care for the smell. I prefer natural ingredient smells over commercial fragrances, and even though I do not know what the chemical makeup of those ingredients they never fare very well in my hair.
5. Long, unfamiliar ingredients
If the ingredient name long and is not naturally derived, then my hair more often than not does not care for it. It will probably give me buildup, leave a dulling film, or not work very well on my coils. I have spent much time tweaking what works for me and these ingredients at the top of the list often make me feel I have put gunk in my hair. Wash day is harder and my hair is often weighed down as a result.
Take away from my list
My hair is no fan of unnatural ingredients. I can use them but they tend to build up, leave a dullness or film, or leaves flakes in my hair. The worst is the buildup that forces me to use shampoo more than I would prefer, as I am a cowash lover but understand the need for and use shampoo when prompted. I love touchable, soft, non-flaking coils and for me using natural ingredients or derivatives of natural ingredients give me that more often than not. Just give me the real deal and my hair is happier and softer as a result.
The good news is, in the process of filtering out the ingredients that my hair (and skin”> will not tolerate, I have also narrowed down the ingredients that my hair thrives on. Read here for the list of 5 ingredients that my hair loves.
Which ingredients does your hair hate?
The problem in achieving second day hair is a thorn in many curly girl’s sides. The dread some women actually feel when they hear others describe how easily they obtain 2nd day hair is discouragingly common. It seems so easy when you see the videos or read how-tos from articles on how to maintain not only 2nd day hair but 3rd, 4th or even for a full week! You feel you can do it too but if you are anything like me and my hair, then you know all too well that it is not as easy as it seems. 2nd day hair or hair that requires minimal to nothing done to achieve a lasting style the day after a wash is still a hurdle many curly girls are trying to jump over. Yes, we have seen the videos and yes, we have tried the nightly routines but when we wake up with a bird’s nest or flat hair one too many times we begin to scoff at the idea. Whether you sleep wild or like a pampered princess, 2nd day hair is not as easy to achieve as some would have you believe.
Now, not all hope is lost. As a curly girl you already know you must think outside the box and if you have tried the pineapple, satin bonnet, satin pillowcase and even sleeping your head over the side of the bed then and STILL cannot achieve 2nd day hair then you may be in the same boat as our reader, Discoveringcurl, who posted the following question on our Curly Q&A.
Question:
I haven’t found a way to sleep without messing up my hair and redoing it in the morning, suggestions?
Answer:
If you have tried just about everything and can still not obtain the coveted 2nd day hair then let’s clear up some misconceptions, come up with some super simple tips outside of what most of us already know and watch you too be allowed into the 2nd day hair club.
What is 2nd day hair?
Second day hair is simply to retain the hairstyle from the day before usually after wash day. Curly Nikki describes it as “a style that lasts forty-eight hours and still looks fab!” That is about right and her response is spot on as well.
Solid foundation on 1st day hair
If you are wanting 2nd, 3rd, or even 4th day hair you have to ensure you did everything necessary on the 1st day. That means you needed to properly moisturize your hair to retain proper moisture levels and so your hair will not be dehydrated and frizz up or become dry. If you are trying to achieve it after wash day: did you cleanse, condition, and DEEP CONDTION? I add that because there are still some curly girls skipping this crucial and necessary step to proper pH balanced, softer and moisturized hair. Deep conditioners also restore elasticity to the hair and strengthen it so it needs to be a regular component of your wash day.
Give your hair what it needs on the first day for perfect definition and moisture because trying to add it after the fact is also a reason why you may not be achieving 2nd day hair. Our hair needs to not only soak in the moisture but to retain it so make sure to gently cleanse your hair, use an excellent leave-in conditioner and seal your hair with a great butter or oil. I also make sure to add gel even if I have nowhere to go because gel sets my curls just right so they remember to stay that way the next day. Gel or another holding product will lock in the curls and should be applied after the leave-in and oil or butter.
Find the right protection
I cannot pineapple my hair for anything in the world. Whenever I do it just sticks straight up, stretched to the point of losing my curls and I have to hear the various names my 14 year old son finds to describe my hair. I have found the satin bonnet is not helpful nor the satin pillowcase so I have enlisted in the Loc Soc for keeping my hair in place without crushing my curls or stretching them to the point of frizz. There is no rule that states you must pineapple or sleep with a satin bonnet on your head. If you can find another product or technique that works then use it. Some can simply sleep on a satin pillowcase and be just fine so try a few different things to see which works best for you and your hair.
You may have to refresh
Yes, many curly girls refresh their curls in the morning and guess what? That is a good thing! I know very few curly girls that can just shake and go in the morning. Even after I take off my Loc Soc I sometimes have to refresh my coils with my lavender and distilled water bottle mixture and lightly touch my hair with some leave-in conditioner. It is perfectly OK to bring those curls back to life and even a quick steam from your portable steamer or the shower can often do the trick too. 2nd day hair does not mean no altering, adding or primping. It means not completely starting over with a new style or recreating the one you had. I never have the same curls from day to day but rather work with what I’ve got each morning and keep it moving. That mindset has kept me from rewetting my hair in the shower every day for about a year now.
You can alter your style
Second day hair does not have to look exactly like 1st day hair. If you can salvage your hairstyle by slightly altering it then by all means do it! A wash and go on 1st day hair is just as gorgeous as a ninja bun on the 2nd day or a messy bun on the 3rd day. Do not fret over having to change up your style without having to do a serious make-over like retwisting or completely rewetting and starting over. Do not put too much pressure on having perfect hair and you will find your mornings, wash, and styling sessions less stressful. It’s about finding a balance with hair care. We are not all alike nor will we all have the same hair care routines, techniques, or outcomes. Not obtaining 2nd day hair as perfect as the next curly girl is not the end of the world so rock your unique curls, maintain a solid foundation for moisturization and make that style your own!
Have you figured out how to achieve 2nd day hair? If so, tell us how below!
Whether the texture, type, or temperament, having a nighttime routine for your tresses is essential and can make or break your hair, style, or regimen if not implemented. Sorry, you must prepare your hair and even if you are dead set against nightly routines, even the simplest of things can make for healthier hair and a healthier hair relationship. We also need to be reminded that the length of your hair does not determine if you need a nighttime routine but rather what type of nighttime routine you need to incorporate. Taking out the necessary time to ensure your style will be preserved or to keep your hair from being dry is what you do the night before and even though many (or most”> naturals are aware of this sometimes we need to be reminded.
That’s right my shorter-haired naturals. Just flopping down on the satin pillowcase is usually not enough to preserve a style or to keep your hydration up.
Twists
Naptural Elenore shows how to not only achieve second or third day hair, but to also how to keep your hair from being a frizz ball. Her main component in this nightly routine is Eden BodyWorks All Natural Curl Defining Crème. It’s not always about keeping curl definition, but also keeping your hair moisturized and smooth. This nighttime routine and her product of choice are great for a TWA or tresses longer than hers.
Short Wash & Go
For the wash and go natural who is so low maintenance and doesn’t cowash often, this style and nighttime routine will be perfect for you. Yes, there are many naturals who wash and go, but do not co-wash daily. AuCurls Naturelle has a quick and easy nighttime routine that yields amazing curl definition and moisture. She uses Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner for her leave-in conditioner and doesn’t use a lot of products since she doesn’t co-wash often.
Stretch Afro
Yes, you need a nightly routine for a fro so don’t get it twisted naturals! AuCurls Naturelle is back to show us how she keeps her beautiful tresses fro’d out and moisturized with her banded method nightly routine. This is also how she stretches her hair without heat.
Chunky Twists
Clarissa shares her own nighttime routine in between her washes. She thoroughly explains what she uses including a DIY leave-in and all her accessories. Just as many naturals, she is able to retwist nightly to refresh, moisturize, and sustain her curl definition. She doesn’t moisturize every night but she will rewist or braid nightly.
How do you preserve your hair at night?
[prodmod]This article was originally published in 2014 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.
Question
Can you still free form (locs”> if you started sponging your hair first?
Answer
You most certainly can, but first let’s explain exactly what each type is. Free form locs, also known as organic locs, are created by allowing the hair to form naturally with no regular styling maintenance. Hands-off approach allows the locks to marry as they see fit.
Sponging is using a dread sponge or a curl sponge, which has large holes that miraculously gather or clump hair into small sections in a mere fraction of the time compared to installing by hand.
5-Minute Quick Sponge Coils
For more information about growing locs, I enlisted the help from a professional loctician so I contacted FlyGuy Locs, who specializes in loc maintenance, barbering and Natural hair, for some help.
“Well, the sponge curls or (shingling”> is a great natural style. There are people that have started from this method but I don’t recommend it if you have a decent stylist that knows what they’re doing. When you’re starting locs, you want a strong foundation, so that when your locs mature they will be strong at the roots as well as the shaft and down the loc itself. With doing curls some may be small medium (or”> large. No real definite structure. Free forming locs on the other hand are just locs married together with no particular structure.”
“Most get it misconstrued that you don’t need any upkeep with free forming but just as much goes into them as it does with traditional locs. There’s maintenance for every method of locking hair. The number one thing I hit home with on every client is structure. If there is not a strong foundation for any style or method of locs the long term won’t be long at all. Just like trees need a strong foundation so do your roots.”
“The sponge curls are just a natural style. You can start them (i.e. locs”> that way, but I don’t recommend it. I’m not against either method at all, but my focus is on health and longevity. Even with free forming, most have started from some sort of structure…Most don’t decide to free form until their locs are mature, but I have seen a few start from free form. Usually at the level of maturity, you can pretty much do whatever you’d like with your locs and or even let them develop by themselves into their own sense of style or character.”
Takeaway
Loc styles can be changed and one can go from using the sponging to free form at any stage, even though most start organic locs once the former locs have matured. You can seek a professional, as it is most essential if you want your hair to come out exactly how you envisioned or just do it yourself by leaving them be. Remember that with all loc styles, FlyGuy Locs suggests starting with a solid foundation to ensure they are strong and healthy.
Follow FlyGuy Locs here:
Question
What’s the difference between a mask and a pre-poo? Is it ok to use a mask and a pre-poo in one wash?
Answer
Pre-Poo
A pre-poo, which is short for pre-shampoo treatment, is quite similar to the traditional hot oil treatment many of our mother’s used for deep conditioning treatments that were applied prior to washing the hair. You can also cocktail or substitute the oil for a daily conditioner. They both hydrate the hair while combatting the dryness of the impending shampoo and in detangling prior to shampooing. A pre-poo can be a pure oil, blended oil, a conditioner, or even a conditioner plus oil cocktail.
Hair mask
A hair mask or masque is a heavier-duty conditioner that restores moisture to the hair and closes the hair’s cuticle after using shampoo. Based on the manufacture’s directions, it is usually left on for 15-20 min. The ingredients in hair masks tend to be oils, butters, and even silicones that are ultra-conditioning and much thicker than deep conditioners. Because of this, curlies usually incorporate them in their regimen between weekly and monthly. Depending on the treatment, some are formulated with more hydrolyzed protein and ceramides for strengthening properties, while others focus on humectant, emollients, and oils for moisture retention.
Some people apply conditioner before shampoo and this is called the reverse shampoo method. The difference between pre-poo and the reverse shampoo method is intention. Those who pre-poo are trying to either prevent hygral fatigue or lessen the drying effects of shampoo; there is no intent of eliminating the deep conditioning step after cleansing. With the reverse shampoo method, the cleansing is not followed up with a conditioner.Read more: Reverse Shampoo – Conditioner Before Shampoo
It seems the biggest distinguishing factors between the two are when they are applied to your tresses and what they are used for. As I mentioned before, a pre-poo is for fighting dryness that one may incur from the upcoming shampoo or it can be just an aid on detangling the hair if it is pretty tangled. The hair mask or masque is more so to strengthen the hair and try to correct any imbalances within the hair just like a facial mask. What they have in common is that both can be DIY concoctions and they can be used during the same wash cycle as they do different things especially if using a hair mask that has protein in it. It may seem like extra work to use both but depending on your hair’s wash day needs, it may be necessary from time to time and if using a hair mask that only needs to be rinsed out may also determine if you want to do both.
Here is a simple DIY pre-poo and hair mask that will work wonders on your curls along with some product recommendations.
Super Simple Avocado Pre-Poo
- 1 small ripe avocado
- 1 Tbsp. your favorite carrier oil
- 1 rice strainer
Mash up avocado, add oil, mix well, and sift with a rice strainer to remove the lumps. This pre-poo is even better warmed up. Apply to hair and allow to sit for at least 30 min. before rinsing and washing hair as usual.
Honey + Olive Oil + Yogurt Hair Mask
- 1 Tbsp. honey
- 1 Tsp. olive oil
- 1/4 cup yogurt
Mix ingredients well before applying to damp hair. Let sit for 15 to 20 min. before rinsing, washing, and styling as usual.
Product recommendations
- Carol’s Daughter Monoi Repairing Hair Mask
- Hydrating Argan Oil Hair Mask and Deep Conditioner By Arvazallia for Dry or Damaged Hair
- SheaMoisture African Black Soap Dandruff Control Pre-Poo Rinse
- Burt’s Bees Avocado Butter Pre-Shampoo Hair Treatment with Nettles and Rosemary
Follow Natasha (pictured above”> here:
Stylish Lee and Instagram
Tiffany, a master stylist and educator at my local Beauty Brands, took me under her wings and gave me my first DevaCut.
The DevaCut was created by the Devachan Salon and is a special technique for cutting curly, wavy or coily hair dry, so the stylist sees how each curl will fall and each individual curl is shaped.
I was excited about having an experienced stylist guide me through the cut, and as she worked she discussed every detail of her process. I walked away with happier hair and a newfound love for the salon again. I also learned a few things about trying a new stylist.
I need a trim or a DevaCut about twice a year, so when my ends began to knot and frazzle, I made my second appointment with Tiffany a couple of weeks ago. Since I knew I was going back to a professional who did not treat me like I was just a customer but a woman who was familiar with my hair, I was not nervous. As soon as we greeted one another, we fell into a new relationship that was comforting and purposeful.
Read more: 9 Amazing DevaCut Transformations
She knew me / I knew her
It had been months since our last meeting but we were both familiar with one another. I didn’t have to explain what I wanted or what I needed from her. No awkwardness where you are sizing one another up for placement into subjective categories. We were past that and were already falling into a contented awareness.
She knew what I needed
Yes, I needed another DevaCut to rid me of my fairy knots but she also knew it was time for a style. Yes, an actual style. I had not thought about a style in years. I am a low maintenance natural and I bebop around daily with no shape or focus to my hair. When we finished the pleasantries and she asked what I wanted, I told her the cut but my face must have said more because she said I think it is time for a style and my soul lit up. She read my needs even when I did not fully know what they were. It could have been merely a professional tuning into my desires or it could have been her reading between the lines. Either way she knew what I needed and I was jazzed.
Trust was established
It feels good to find a hairstylist you trust, especially when you are a control freak such as myself; it feels marvelous to allow someone else to take over and you know it will be perfect. My first cut was remarkable and I learned I could trust this woman with my hair. That is a big deal to a natural woman who has heard far too many horror stories to give that up lightly. She trusted me to show up, be on time, and express what I wanted with the intention of becoming a client. This was a good thing.
Expectations were met
Long ago I had given up on any aspirations for a hairstyle, but she created one. I have fine, 3c/4a hair, although I prefer coarse, 4b coils. I have accepted my hair and just rolled with the punches of a fine-haired natural. Tiffany scoffed at that. She created a style through an A/symmetrical cut that gave me the fullness and height I desired. Tiff got skills.
We are dancing to a new rhythm where trust, knowledge, friendship, and professionalism are met by both parties. My next venture is color and I will leave her to find one that compliments my hues, personality, and spirit. It was a positive and purposeful visit that solidified my belief that all good things come to those who wait. I am a happy natural and I am a DevaCut lover too.
Read more: My DevaCut on Kinky, Type 4 Hair
The cape chestnut tree does quite well in deep fertile, well-composed soil that is exposed to plenty of moisture. With oil glands present on the leaves, there is a strong scent especially when crushed. The flowers aid in giving this tree its magnificent beauty with pink and mauve flowers that often cover the entire canopy of the tree. The fruits of the cape chestnut open when completely ripe and are round, wary capsules that split into five sections to release ten black, angular seeds. The leaves may have the lemony-pine scent, but the seeds are the bearers of the yangu oil.
Benefits of Yangu oil
Yangu oil is extracted from the seeds by cold pressing. This remarkable and very stable oil is high in essential fatty acids and antioxidants. Its most prized component is how well it provides inherent protestation against ultraviolet radiation. The most common uses of yangu oil are for soaps, face creams, lotions, hair conditioners, sun care products, massage oils, and balms. It is a non-drying, non-toxic oil that is used by local women of Africa to protect the skin, scalp, and hair from UV rays. The oil has a bland aroma (quite different from the leaves”> with a clear to pale yellow color. Because of its non-toxic and non-drying nature, it is quite often used in facial soaps and shampoos, and when added to cleansing agents it has the ability to add softness and even lessen the drying effects of most soaps.
Read more: 4 Acids that are Great for Your Hair
Yangu oil has an impressive essential fatty acid content including palmitic acid, stearic acid, and oleic acid, all bringing this oil to the table with big boys of natural oils for hair. It is an emollient with antioxidants that are great for your skin and scalp, especially for those with psoriasis, eczema, scaling, and other scalp conditions. With its non-drying nature, this oil is ideal for combatting the drying effects of shampoos by simply adding a few drops to your shampoo application. There is a buzz surrounding this beautiful oil in how well it works and may even replace the ever-beloved coconut oil for preventing hair and moisture loss.
This oil is a great option for hot oil massages and pre-poos. It is perfect for preventing dandruff, scalp flaking, and restoring your hair and scalp’s natural moisture. Yangu oil is being used in spas for skin and hair treatments from massages to hair applications. The added bonus of having sunscreen capabilities makes this oil a keeper for all seasons and extra special for the cooler months to fight off dry scalp and hair.
Read more: Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Products with Yangu oil
Alcohol can affect not only your health but also your beauty. It affects your hair and skin the same way it affects the rest of your body.
What does alcohol do to your body?
Alcohol is a diuretic and a depressant because it slows down the central nervous system. Ethyl alcohol or ethanol is an intoxication ingredient found in beer, wine, and liquor. Since it is a diuretic, it makes your kidneys work harder to remove excess water from your body instead of going to your organs and skin, which is the biggest organ in the body, so drinking a ton of alcohol leaves your skin dehydrated.
Excessive drinking also depletes your iron and affects the levels of estrogen and zinc in the body, which subsequently affects hair growth. According to Brown University, constant consumption of alcohol can induce vitamin and one’s folic acid levels may fall too. All of those nutrients are vital to maintain healthy skin, scalp, and hair.
How can you combat the negative effects?
Here are ways to combat the negative effects alcohol on your hair and skin.
Cut down on your consumption
You can simply cut down on your drinking if you find you are drinking too much or too often. The object is to have fun this holiday season but it will not be much fun if you cannot remember it or drink to the point of getting sick. Lowering your amount will lower your potential of dehydration.
Drink plenty of water
Simple and effective, drinking water keeps your body and hair hydrated. Try drinking a glass of water between cocktails. This simple trick will also stave off headaches, nausea, and puffiness many face after a heavy night of drinking.
Eat
Drinking on an empty stomach not only makes you more intoxicated at a faster rate, it also tends to make you feel worse the next day. Food helps to absorb or slow down the absorption of the alcohol and that in turn decreases your depletion of hydration.
Eat right the next day
Eat a well-balanced breakfast to replenish your body with the necessary nutrients to absorb the remaining alcohol that may be lingering in your system. Bananas are an excellent source of potassium and will help replenish those depleted electrolyte levels.
Do not forget that help is always a step or even a click away so have fun this holiday, stick to these easy to follow tips and your hair (and skin”> will not suffer!
Benefits of watermelon seed oil
Even though we often discard the seeds, they are full of nutrients, proteins, fatty acids, minerals, and vitamins. Watermelon seed oil is often called ootanga oil or kalahari oil. It can be extracted a few different ways: the expeller method, cold pressing, solvent extraction, or oil clarification. Traditionally the seeds are removed from the rind and dry outside in the sun before being extracted.
There are phenolic compounds in watermelon which includes carotenoids, flavonoids, and triterpenoids. This fruit is full of anti-inflammatory and antioxidants, but the star nutrient is lycopene. It possesses more than 60% linoleic acid and has omegas 3, 6, and 9, which are great for cardiovascular and immune health while also aiding our nervous system. Watermelon seed oil has palmitic, oleic acid, steric acid, B-Vitamins, copper, manganese, magnesium, and zinc.
Read more: Oleic or Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much
Watermelon seed oil for hair
With that amazing composition, it is no wonder that this oil is just that…a wonder! Watermelon seed oil is great as an emollient for moisturizing your strands and scalp. This ultra-light oil does not clog pores, so no dirt can accumulate on the scalp. It is also extremely moisturizing without being overly greasy. The abundance of antioxidants boosts scalp circulation and in turn helps with hair fall. The essential fatty acids help to moisturize the hair and scalp while preventing hair breakage. The copper helps the production of melanin and is responsible for keeping hair color intact and the potassium is an important component of cell growth, which aids in hair optimal hair growth.
Watermelon seed oil is has water-soluble properties that make it great for skin and scalp absorption. It also helps with skin and hair elasticity. It also dissolves sebum buildup and an all-around great oil for scalp, skin, and hair. It can be used alone for hot oil massages and pre-poos or as a blended hair oil for hair masks or treatments.
Fruit & veggie hair oil
- 1 oz. watermelon seed oil
- 1/4 oz. jojoba oil
- 1/2 oz. broccoli seed oil
- 1/4 oz. blueberry seed oil
- 25 drops carrot root extract
Measure all ingredients into a small bowl and mix well. This makes around 2 oz. of a potent hair mix that can be warmed and used as a hot oil massage, pre-poo, hot oil treatment, oil rinse, or sealing.
Question
“Has anyone done their own BC? I’m planning on doing a big chop in the near future. I’ve been using henna to cover my gray hair and want to stop. I already know I’ll be impatient with having two colors in my hair, so once it’s grown out about an inch, I plan on using clippers and a guide comb to do the big chop myself. However, it seems like the “normal” thing most people do is get their big chop done at a salon. My mom is freaking out about me doing it myself also.
The only major risk I can think of when doing it myself at home is if I use crappy clippers, which would of course risk creating split and gnarly ends. Are there any other risks that I’m missing? Anyone else out there do their own big chop? Thanks in advance!”
Answer
Seven years ago I did my own big chop without knowing it was called a big chop. I just looked in the mirror, picked up kitchen scissors (I do not recommend this”>, and started cutting. Cutting my own hair was liberating, self-affirming, and allowed me to work on only one texture. I loved that I did it and would not change a thing, because my experience, albeit improper tools, was a necessary component in my journey to going natural. Most curly girls have horror stories about hairstylists who are unskilled and inexperienced with natural hair. If this is truly something you want to do, then by all means do it. But before you get started, here is a list of things to consider when taking the DIY route for your big chop.
Use proper tools
Proper tools does not account for only appropriate shears. It also includes a wide-tooth comb, spray bottle, hair clips, and a room with great lighting. Proper tools allow you to do the job right and just as you suspected, the wrong cutting tools can leave snags or split ends. Shears are recommended, as you have more control over what you are cutting; they also allow people to take their time to cut their hair by each clump based on the visible line of demarcation.
Wet your hair
When doing the BC you want to work on very damp hair. Wetting the hair allows your natural hair to retract and curl, making it easier to distinguish between the relaxed ends and your natural hair. Some even use daily conditioner with lots of slip to help their curls to clump and reveal a more pronounced line of demarcation.
Read more: Top 20 Daily ConditionersEnlist the help of someone you trust
If you are not sure about going to a salon, then ask a friend or family member to at least help with the back of your hair. It is easier to see the front and sides but the back (even with several mirrors”> can be challenging and cause you to cut too much or too little.
Take your time
There is no need to rush, as you want to make sure you are only cutting off your relaxed ends and not healthy natural strands.
Watch
If you still feel uncomfortable, check out our community Curl Salon recommendations.
Many naturals are fearful of heat damage despite wanting the straighter look, and just like Borney_Ly from Curly Q&A wanted to know, many naturals are curious on what they can do to ensure their fabulous blow out does not create problems for them down the road.
Question
What do you after you have natural blow out to prevent hair damage?
Answer
The most important part of staving off heat damage occurs before you even do your blow out. Sure, some will always covet straight hair, but rocking the big full hair of a blow out allows you to have straight hair with volume. Just like any style that naturals try, a blow out can have the potential for damage from heat. While you can most definitely care for your hair after the blow out, to prevent heat damage from a blowout requires work done before you even do the blow out.
Here’s what you should do before the blowout.
1. Clarify
Creating a blow out on dirty hair can make the oil, dirt, or product buildup may yield a less than stellar results, as they last longer and look better on clean hair.
2. Deep condition
You want to start on healthy hair and deep conditioning is necessary to help hair stay manageable, stronger, less frizzy, and retain hair’s length. It should be done after every wash but definitely before a blow out, as you want it in the best possible condition before adding heat.
3. Use heat protectant
Always apply a heat protectant before using heat styling tools, and yes that includes a blow out. Just like you wouldn’t grab a hot pan out of the oven without oven mitts or pot holders, you should never place heat appliances to your naked hair without some sort of protection. Most heat protectants contain silicones (e.g. cyclomethicone and dimethicone”> and other essential ingredients to coat and protect the hair against heat applications. Heat protectants coat the hair shaft, lessening the damaging effects of direct heat and keeping the moisture sealed into your strands. Many naturals opt for natural heat protectants like grapeseed oil or olive oil, but they can be heavy and weigh the hair down. A better option may be the over-the-counter and just as Sister Scientist has stated “chemists will combine synthetic ingredients like silicones with the natural goodness of oils to provide an improved customer experience when using the product.”
Read more: This Buildup Actually Saves Your Hair and Why Oil Doesn’t Work as a Heat Protectant
4. Use the lowest setting of heat
You are not trying to fry your hair nor dry it out, so use the lowest setting possible and never use heat appliances that do not have a variety in heat settings.
So in a nutshell trying to prevent heat damage after your blow out is too late, as it needs to occur prior to even doing the blowout. You can make your style last or give protein treatments or deep conditioning after the blow out to care for your hair and keep it moisturized and strong.
Flat Iron and Blow Out on Natural Hair | How To Without Heat Damage
Question
Can your hair be half straight and half curly? I’m talking about naturally half and half! My sister is convinced this is possible but I don’t believe it.
Answer
Yes, you can, although there are other reasons why someone would have curly strands right next to, on top of, or below straight strands. It can be damage from chemicals like a Brazilian keratin treatment, heat styling, or bleaching. This phenomenon can also occur naturally, Ouidad’s former Artistic Director Ana told Glamour that is very normal for one head to have four different curl patterns ranging from loose waves to tight ringlets.
This happens due to genetics. Our DNA is to blame and research shows that the curvature of strands largely depends on the nature of the hair follicle. When the follicle is asymmetrical, the hair shaft grows oval in shape and tends to curl, but even a once curly hair follicle can change to a straight one. That’s right, hair can change its own texture and shape due to a myriad of reasons like medication, hormones, and the body’s chemistry.
How to manage your different textures
Do not fight your hair. Being rough with your hair, neglecting it, or opting for chemical treatments may only worsen the issue, even if you do not see the damage immediately. There are other ways to deal with naturally different textures, even if the differences seem extreme.
The right haircut
Get a cut to mask the difference or work with all of the textures. A professional stylist will know how to give you a cut that compliments all the textures. If you wear a wash and go regularly, let them see it shrunken, dry state to give you the best cut or style possible. Asymmetrical bobs, layering, or pixie cuts are just a few cutting options that will give your hair shape and allow your natural textures to rise to the occasion and look amazing. Allow a professional to work with your different textures to give you a style that may ease your worry about those differences until it is time for another cut.
Encourage the curl – without heat
You always have the option to make the straighter hairs curly or vice versa. If you want to steer clear of heat styling tools, then opt for flexi rods, pin curls, or twisting those straighter pieces to mirror your curlier strands. Scrunching is another technique that will help certain strands to curl. You can also do a roller set or the flexi rod set that will give all of your hair a uniform look too. When my sister had heat damage on one small section, she simply pinned it up when air-drying and when it was completely dry it fell right into place with all the other sections of her hair. Genius!
Different hair personalities makes for unique hair and for various styles to create. When you look at it in a negative way you will yield negative results or take drastic measures when only a few things like a new cut, scrunching, or stretching a few strands can give you what you want.
How do you style your multiple textures? Do you care about curl uniformity?
Do you know what damaged hair looks like, feels like, and even acts like? Often, we get used to the way our hair behaves (or doesn’t”> and ignore the signs of true damage. Bald patches, clumps of hair falling out, or thinning edges — these are easy to spot. But what about the other, less-obvious signs that your hair is in serious trouble?
If you comb, brush, shampoo, chemically straighten, or use heat-styling tools or permanent color, the fact is, you are in some way or another harming your hair. Even pulling your hair into a ponytail too often can be destructive. Before you throw your hands up in the air and surrender, know that it is possible to prevent this damage. You just have to know what to look for.
Split Ends
Easily mistaken for frizz, split ends are the damaged tips of the hair shaft that have split into two or three fragments. The ends are the oldest part of your hair and tend to grow increasingly porous over time, which is why many naturally curly girls emphasize oiling their ends. If your hair looks full and voluminous at the roots and much thinner at the ends, your ends are probably damaged. Getting a trim and focusing on moisturizing hair care are crucial to staving off further issues.
Read more: 12 Things You Can Do Today To See Fewer Split Ends
Lack of Elasticity
Hair is elastic, especially when wet, but one of the biggest problems with elasticity loss is that it can sometimes be hard to diagnose. Healthy hair has a high level of elasticity, and this is what gives hair its body, bounce, and texture formation. Elasticity is what makes hair styling possible and is a telltale sign of hair health.
To test if your hair has lost its elasticity, stretch a strand while it’s wet. If a strand breaks with little to no stretching, it may need more moisture. If it stretches a bit and then returns to its natural state, you have normal elasticity. If it stretches more than usual and then breaks, or feels limp and mushy between your fingers, then it needs protein. It’s important to have a balance of moisture and protein in our hair, and the best way to do this is with protein treatments. (Ideally, have yours administered by a professional, as too much protein can also cause damage.”>
High Porosity
Porosity is how easily hair (like a sponge”> can absorb moisture and chemicals, and damaged hair is more porous than healthy hair. Chemical treatments like coloring, chemical straighteners, and heat applications can cause hair to become overly porous. If you dye your hair, then you may have noticed the dye absorbing or processing more quickly on hair that is damaged than on the healthy parts of your hair. The flip side of that problem is that the color may fade more quickly in the highly porous sections every time you cleanse.
The best way to prevent this damage is to decrease the chemicals and heat-styling products in your life. Since damaged hair is more vulnerable when wet, try styling or manipulating it when it’s dry and consider damp detangling to cause less damage. Incorporate protein treatments to add strength to the hair and temporarily close holes in the hair’s cuticle. Deep-condition and consider using apple cider vinegar and aloe vera to restore the hair’s pH balance. Then,seal with an oil to help retain as much moisture as possible.
Read more: 4 Ways to Moisturize Your High-Porosity Hair
Dry, Brittle, Lack Of Moisture
Healthy hair is soft and supple and should never be dry and brittle. Not sure why your hair is dry no matter what you do? Consider these questions:
1. Are you deep-conditioning after cleansing? You should.
2. Are you protecting your curls at night by using a satin scarf or satin bonnet or sleeping on a satin pillowcase? You should.
3. Are you drying your hair with a blowdryer on high heat? You shouldn’t.
4. Do you incorporate oils into your regimen with pre-poos, hot oil treatments, or sealers? Maybe this is the time.
Pick up a couple strands of your hair and run your fingers through it from root to tip. If it feels rough, that is a sign of dryness and possible damage. Do this test the day after washing your hair, as dryness can also be an indication of product buildup. Sometimes, dryness can be caused by the weather, hormone changes, or even medications, but often it’s simply too much heat, chemical treatments, or not properly moisturizing and conditioning your hair.
Unruly Tangles
Textured hair is more prone to tangling than straight hair is. If you are doing all the right things in your detangling session and are still wrestling with unruly tangles, then your hair may be damaged. This is a sign that you’re likely dealing with a few of the issues above; dry hair with roughened cuticles and frayed split ends is likely to snag and form knots. And, if your hair lacks elasticity, it will likely snap as you attempt to remove those knots. This calls for more frequent deep-conditioning and is potentially a sign that it’s time for a trim. Even if you want long hair, you can’t reach mermaid status by holding onto damaged strands that need to go.
You know your own hair. If it was soft and full before and now it’s dull, thinning, tangled, and will not hold a style, then you know something isn’t right. If it feels different, looks different, or your old products just aren’t doing the trick, investigate to see if you have any damaging habits — and then stop doing them! Your hair will thank you.
Is Greek yogurt great for hair?
Greek yogurt (or any yogurt for that matter”> is great for protein treatments that will help build up your hair’s damaged cuticle from chemical or heat applications. It will increase shine, add moisture, and make your hair softer. It is much better for your hair than mayonnaise, which actually does not work as a protein treatment because the proteins are too large to fit into the hair cuticle. Greek yogurt is the better choice for a DIY protein treatment because it can penetrate the hair shaft.
Greek yogurt is the better choice for a DIY protein treatment because it can penetrate the hair shaft.
I enlisted the help of scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., RPhT to explain the effects of greek yogurt on hair. According to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, “Hydrolyzed yogurt protein is the hydrolysate of yogurt protein derived by acid, enzyme, or other method of hydrolysis. Derived from essential yogurt proteins in a hydrolyzed form.
Hydrolyzed proteins enhance both the functional and nutritional properties of proteins. With a molecular weight ranging between 2 – 4 kDa (kilodaltons a measurement used for weight”>, this product was shown to increase skin hydration by 12% compared to a control. For percentage of protein in dietary yogurt: regular yogurt = 5g of protein/6oz and Greek yogurt = 10g of protein/6oz. We don’t eat hydrolyzed yogurt protein but it is found in many beauty products.”Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work
Does Greek yogurt from the store work?
There are some proteins in Greek yogurt we buy in the store that are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft. It brings down the pH level and strengthens the hair by way of it smaller proteins, amino acids, lactic acids, and unique lipids from the milk. Greek yogurt from the store is perfect to help rebuild the damaged cuticle and strengthen the hair.
All in all, this makes Greek yogurt a viable DIY ingredient for a protein treatment despite not being completely hydrolyzed protein that one would find in a commercial beauty product because some of the proteins along with the amino acids and lactic acids still nourish the hair and penetrate the hair shaft. Yogurt is even better when used with honey, and natural oils (like coconut or olive”> to create a powerfully moisturizing protein treatment or mask. Now you can toss your mayonnaise treatment in exchange for the new DIY protein provider that gets the job done.
DIY deep conditioner for curly hair
How does lecithin help with hair?
Lecithins are emulsifiers that are surface-active and water-loving. These fatty substances are often found in hair and skin products because of their main nutrients: choline and insotil. Choline and inositol are both important for healthy hair growth, as they are part of the B complex vitamins. Lecithin supports and enhances the required amount of protein for hair growth while improving the texture and look of hair by adding shine or luster. Its high concentration of fatty acids creates a barrier on the skin and hair that effectively captures and seals in moisture.
This moisturizing benefit makes lecithin perfect for persons suffering from dry, brittle hair. It adds shine, seals in moisture, and restores hair’s natural protective coating often damaged by styling, chemical applications, heat, or environmental changes. This is often why we find shampoos and conditioners utilizing lecithin to help improve the look and structure of damaged hair. Lecithins also help control the viscosity of liquids and help with product absorption into the skin or hair. They are highly conditioning and moisturizing for hair conditioners and masks. Not just for conditioning and moisturizing, lecithin helps to prevent fly-away hair for our straight-haired naturals.
There are dietary supplements of lecithin and of course food sources, but if you want the benefits of this natural-occurring ingredient, then you can benefit from these products below that use the emulsifying and moistening power of lecithin in their formulas.
Products with lecithin
One of the most popular ingredients for products that claim to strengthen your hair is protein. We often see hydrolyzed proteins but when something like hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides come along we can become overwhelmed with understanding what it means. For one we may recognize the polysaccharides and realize it has something to do with sugar. Aside from that, what exactly is hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides and what is it doing in your hair products?
What are hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides?
First, let’s break each component down to determine what it is and why it is in some of your hair products:
Hydrolyze: the process of hydrolyzing is an ingredient being decomposed by reacting with water.
Mucopolysaccharides: natural skin component, which are long chains of sugar molecules often found the mucus and fluid around joints. They are also known as glycosaminoglycans. –Medline Plus
Hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides are a skin-hydrating ingredient that helps to decrease transepidermal water loss because of its strong water-binding properties. This is most beneficial for skin, as this ingredient will bind water and other cellular elements to form a matrix that holds skin cells together, creating a more supple and former texture. Mucopolysaccharides are often called “the glue of life” as they are long carbohydrate chains of sulfated amino sugars that are found at the base or roots of the evolutionary tree of all animal life. They are an integral part of the structural integrity of bone, cartilage, and elastic tissue while also aiding in modulating the viscosity of bodily fluids.
Why are hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides important in hair products?
As you can probably guess, any ingredient that is willing to bind water to your skin and hair is a great moisturizer. Mucopolysaccharides are high in our body tissues in our youth but lessen as we age. And while it maintains flexibility of our arteries, it also preserves the elasticity of our skin (scalp included”> and retains moisture. This ingredient is easily absorbed into the scalp and adds the necessary moisture to keep the scalp from dryness and moisture loss. Suffering from a dry scalp? Check out these products.
Product recommendations
- ApHogee Keratin 2-Minute Reconstructor
- Folicure Thickening Mousse
- Mill Creek Biotene H-24 Natural Scalp Massage Emulsion
- ALTERNA Caviar Clinical Daily Root & Scalp Stimulator
What are some ingredients you would like more information on? We’re here to help so comment below.
Many curly girls love making their own spray bottle mixes. I love lavender oil and jojoba oil, so I add them in a spray bottle with my favorite conditioner to refresh my curls in the morning. I do realize that there is a time limit on my concoction, and if it has been sitting around for too long I dump and start over. Just like food, hair care concoctions have a shelf life—even with refrigeration—so many DIY concoctions require something more than refrigeration for them to last. They need preservatives.
What are preservatives and why are they necessary in hair products?
Simply put, preservatives are natural occurring or man-made chemicals that are added to food and cosmetic products to prevent spoilage. These chemicals are acidic in nature, making it difficult for organisms from mold, yeast, and bacteria to grow. They allow your products to last longer than what refrigeration is able to do alone. The downside to preservatives is that some may cause skin irritations—even the natural ones—but if creating a product to sell or if one is longing for longer shelf life, some sort of preservative may be necessary. One that is popular in hair care products and natural occurring is sorbic acid.
What is sorbic acid?
Sorbic acid is a white, crystalline powder that is an organic acid. It is derived from mountain ash berries or manufactured synthetically. It is a preservative found in many foods, contact lens solutions, and skin and hair products and very soluble in oil. According to Cosmeticsinfo.org, sorbic acid kills microorganisms or prevents their growth and reproduction, which in turn protects the product from spoiling, but it is less active against bacteria. Sorbic acid is sometimes used as a humectant and the salts in sorbic acid (calcium, potassium, and sodium”> are able to dissolve in water, but sorbic acid is much more soluble in fats and oils. It also considered a low hazard ingredient and not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful.
Now, DIYers are not the only ones who may be using a preservative that contains sorbic acid, as it is quite popular in hair products like we have listed below, but it is possible to simply buy it online on Amazon.com. If choosing to go the DIY route and looking for a preservative that is easily accessible then sorbic acid may be a good fit for you, your hair and your creation.
- Let’s Jam Shining & Conditioning Gel
- Garnier Fructis Style Brilliantine Water-Based Shine Wax
- Roots of Nature Triple Repair Hairdress with Green Tea and Shea Butter
- Earthly Delight Leave-in Conditioner
- Living Proof Frizz Styling Spray Straight Making
Read more: 6 Natural Preservatives for Your DIY Cocktails Lasts
Smoking is a difficult habit to break but if you are able and ready to do so, you may want to know just how great it can be for your body, hair included. Mermaid_Hair00 recently quit smoking and was wondering how that will affect her hair’s health. She inquired about the perks for her hair in our Curly Q&A.
Question
Ex-smokers: How has quitting smoking changed your hair? I’ve recently quit smoking. (It’s been almost 2 months”> Of course I feel fantastic in general, but I’ve heard that quitting can boost your growth rate and overall health of the new growth. Has anyone experienced this? Post before and after pictures if you have them!
Answer
Congrats on giving up smoking. You are well on your way to brighter skin and happier hair. Quitting smoking brings benefits like reducing your heart rate back towards normal levels, according to the Center for Disease Control (CDC“>, and you can expect more luster in your curls.
Unfortunately, the 7,000 chemicals in cigarettes affect all the cells in your body and that includes hair follicles according to registered nurse and Director of North Shore-LIJ Center for Tobacco Control Pat Folan. She says that smoking has been associated with hair loss and ceasing to smoke will make your hair look better. WebMD states that as men and women age they tend to develop thinning hair and smoking actually accelerates this process. Also, some studies actually suggest people who smoke are more likely to go bald. Smoke negatively affects your body’s blood circulation and that means impaired blood flow to your hair follicles. This disruption affects the normal hair growth/loss cycle and can result in thinning hair and even hair loss. Smoking not only accelerates the aging of your hair, but it may cause dryness and an oil imbalance. The good news is that when you quit smoking you experience better blood flow to your hair follicles. Some have claimed hair growth or hair thickness, but no scientific evidence has been attributed to that. Making the decision to stop smoking, prevents pre-mature aging of your scalp and hair, dryness, and potential hair loss and thinning when you quit smoking.
Have you seen any changes in your hair since you’ve stopped smoking?
