Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

10 Charcoal Shampoos to Remove Toxins from Your Hair & Scalp

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 5, 2016

Charcoal is making its rounds again in not just skin care but hair products as well. An ingredient for clearing toxins, more brands are including it in their formulas for cleaning hair and scalp of impurities from the environment. We hear it, see it, and love using it, but what is charcoal and is it really an asset in our hair care regimens?

What is charcoal?

Mostly pure carbon, charcoal is a certain kind of half-burnt wood and the best charcoal comes from hard wood like beech or oak. The charcoal is made by cooking the wood in a low oxygen environment. Archaeological evidence of charcoal production goes back around 30,000 years ago.

What is the difference between charcoal and activated charcoal?

Activated charcoal is similar to regular charcoal but is made specifically for used in medicines to treat poisonings, reduce gas and cholesterol levels, and even to prevent hangovers. The regular charcoal is heated in the presence of a gas that causes the charcoal to create internal spaces or “pores” and that allows the charcoal to trap the chemicals, increasing its absorbing power.

Does charcoal really remove toxins?

I wanted to find out so I enlisted the help of scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., RPhT to find out.

First of all, what are toxins?

“Toxins can be anything from pollution in the environment to medications that you take even the foods you eat. Toxins lodge in your cells, soft tissues, and muscles, and overwhelm your entire immune system. It is a poisonous non-biological substance (but sometimes proteins can be toxins”> that causes disease when introduced in the body.”

Does charcoal remove them?

“Activated charcoal, or activated carbon, has oxygen added to it to increase its porosity, thereby, adding to its surface area. More surface area allows for more contact between molecules increasing the rate of reaction. It is used to remove toxins in chemical reactions. Best example is using activated charcoal to filter fish tanks. You can also ingest activated charcoal as a supplement.”

So, activated charcoal does remove toxins and toxins can be more than just environmental pollutants or substances inside our bodies. Toxins can be in our hair or on our scalp so shampoos with activated charcoal serves a useful purpose.

Here are ten shampoos + 1 DIY recipe with the toxin destroying benefits of charcoal.

Apotheke Sulfate free Charcoal Shampoo

Acidity neutralizing, impurity absorbing charcoal shampoo by Apotheke is sulfate free and scented with only essential natural oils.

Ecomax Natural Bamboo Charcoal Shampoo

Made with bamboo charcoal powder, decyl glucoside (mild non-ionic surfactant”>, citric acid, cocamide DEA (surfactant derived from coconut oil”>, and cocamidoproply betaine (Foam booster derived from coconut oil”>. A natural shampoo created to soothe while stimulating scalp and skin.

Hask Charcoal Clarifying Shampoo

A potent clarifying shampoo using the power of charcoal, lemon, and grapefruit oils to eliminate impurities on the hair and scalp. Water, cleansing agents, and glycerin make up this powerful and effective shampoo.

Myth Bamboo Charcoal Detoxifying Shampoo

Made with DI water and bamboo charcoal, this detoxifying shampoo is potent at drawing out the dirt, toxins and pollutants from your hair and scalp. No parabens, silicones, or fragrances and 85% natural.

Pelican DEI-TAN-SEKI Clay & Charcoal Shampoo

Harness the power of charcoal and clay in this impurity fighting shampoo. Water, cocamidopropyl betaine, and charcoal powder cleans effectively yet gently and even has camellia seed oil for softness.

SheaMoisture African Black Soap Deep Cleansing Shampoo

SheaMoisture brings a soothing shampoo with this sulfate-free deep cleansing. Charcoal, plantain enzymes, and tea tree oil work hard at relieving itching and irritation.

SheaMoisture Detox & Refresh Hair & Scalp Gentle Shampoo

This new line from SheaMoisture brings African water mint, ginger activated charcoal, and opuntia extracts to remove dirt, oil, and product buildup effectively. Sulfate free and great for all hair types, this new gentle shampoo will moisturize, sooth, and stimulate scalp circulation for healthy hair.

Sort of Coal – Kuro Activated Charcoal Shampoo

Better suited for oily to normal hair types, this black shampoo cleanses your hair to get it clean, healthy, and lustrous with the power of activated white charcoal.

Sort of Coal – Shiro Activated Charcoal Shampoo

White charcoal is used in this scalp stimulating, impurity absorbing shampoo. No parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrances or dyes, this activated charcoal shampoo is perfect for normal to dry hair types.

Voodoo Bamboo Charcoal Shampoo Bar From Australia with Organic Leatherwood Honey

Mountain spring water, bamboo charcoal, coconut oil, and olive oil make up the backbone to the only shampoo bar on our list. This leaves hair incredibly clean and shiny without the impurities and scalp ailments like dandruff and eczema.

Turn your regular shampoo into a charcoal shampoo

Just open up a capsule of activated charcoal and mix in with a dollop of your favorite shampoo to get the toxin-ridding benefits of charcoal.

Recovering From Thinning Shears

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 4, 2016

Photo by ffolas — Getty Images

Curly girls know a lot about volume, and while some embrace it others find it distracting and wish to lose it. One popular solution for removing bulk from curly hair is the use of thinning shears. However, thinning the bulk can often create a larger issue with uneven curls, frizz or lost curls, and for drdi in Curly Q&A it ended in a disaster.

Question

Hairdresser used thinning shears-DISASTER! Help! A week ago I had a haircut not to my regular hairdresser. My curls were feeling a little bit heavy, so I asked him to do something to control that. He used the thinning shears. It was the first time this is done to my hair, and I didn’t have any idea of how bad it is. Now most of my curls are gone, other parts appear straight (especially the front close to the face”> and there are some very thin ringlets. Also, after the haircut, I noticed that my hair become oily very easily, something that was not happening before. How long does it take to get back to the previous condition? What should I do to improve it? Would it help to cut my hair a little bit?

Answer

I have been in your shoes and it took forever for my hair to grow back into a style that allowed me to feel good about my hair again. In all fairness, I had no clue what I wanted or how I needed my hair to create a style, but what I got was not it! It ruined my curls, my fullness, and my ends. Needless to say those slicing and thinning cuts are not ideal for all curly girls, but I have some tips that may help until your hair grows out.

Find a professional to fix your cut

You can find a stylist who specializes in the DevaCut to help rescue your curls. They are not gone forever but a professional may need to step in to fix the problem. I am a big proponent of the DevaCut but let me tell you why. First off, the bad cutting experience I had allowed me to find out what I did not want nor worked well for my hair and secondly I have had two DevaCuts and they were marvelous. The DevaCut is a specialized cut for curly, coily, and wavy hair that focuses on sculpting each curl without disrupting the curl pattern. Stylists are extensively trained to learn this technique. The cut is done on dry hair since curly hair is very different when wet. This cut is excellent for the curly girls who love the wash and go style.

There are more cutting styles other than the DevaCut that work just as well if not better and it really depends on the client and the style they are going for. There is the RI CI Cut by Edgy salon owner, stylist, and educator Ricky Pennisi, which is based on hair weight and density and not curl pattern. While this cut has a different premise, they concentrate on the problem area to create movement and allow your curls to be frizz-free and beautiful. Again, go for a consultation and see if they can fix your cut prior to making the appointment.

Working with your hair

You can pin up or roller set the hair that refuses to curl or try braid outs or twist outs to get all the hair to curl homogeneously. Applying a holding product while scrunching those pesky strands to get them to curl may help as well especially if it is only a few sections unwilling to cooperate.

So you can achieve uniformity in your hair by curling it or you can seek out a professional in curly hair and curly cuts. Make sure to have a consultation so the stylist can see your hair and determine the course of action. Take your time finding the right person and know that whatever route you choose to take your hair will grow back and your curls will return.

Have you ever had a bout with the thinning shears?

Top 12 Styling Creams for People Who Hate Gel

By Sabrina Perkins · Published February 1, 2016

There are all types of curl definers for curly girls from mousse to gels to creams, and while many, like myself, love gels, they are not everyone’s favorite. My sister and best friend wouldn’t be caught dead using gel with its heaviness and for quite a few curlies, mousse does not provide enough a lasting hold. For these we have the lovely creams that can combat frizz without weighing down or flattening your curls, waves, and coils. It puts your hair in a happy place by being light enough to give your hair to have movement but not so light that you lose curl definition.

We have 12 of the top styling creams for all curl patterns and while money is no object for some, many on the list are quite inexpensive so your wallet will be happy too.

Wavy Type 2 Hair

Garnier Fructis Style Soft Curl Cream

You want carefree waves and you can do that with this soft curl cream. It has water, a humectant, fatty alcohols, and slip for easy application. A great formula to smooth those hairs in place without weighing it down. Get soft, shapely curls and waves and lots of moisture.

Desert Essence Soft Curls Hair Cream

Add a soft weightless bounce to your waves and curls with Desert Essence Soft curls hair cream. The first few ingredients in this hair ream are water, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of fatty alcohols”>, behentrimonium methosulfate (mild hair detangler”>, coconut oil, and safflower seed oil. Gain softness and defined waves and curls with a shiny bounce to your tresses.

Oyin Handmade Boing!

Water, unrefined shea butter, behentremonium methosulfate, and cetearyl alcohol, and vegetable glycerin give life to this frizz fighting styler. Great for your delicate wavy hair.

Ouidad Wave Create Texture Taffy

A taffy styler that creates those beachy waves we love with water, glycerin, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate (surfactant and emulsifying agent”>, and PEG-100 stearate (emulsifier”>. Excellent for delicate hair as it glides easily through your strands and creates long-lasting touchable waves and curls.

Read more: Good Alcohols vs. Bad Alcohols

Curly Type 3 Hair

DevaCurl Styling Cream

Water, cetearyl alcohol, glycerin, behentrimonium chloride, tapioca starch (thickener and viscosity enhancer”>, cetrimonium chloride (emulsifier”> come together to create a deeply nourishing and shaping styling cream.

CURLS Curl Soufflè

Define those curls while staving off the frizz and locking in the much-needed moisture. Water, aloe leaf juice, glycerin, sunflower seed oil make up the first six ingredients in this soufflé-textured defrizzing hair cream. Great for thick curls too.

Miss Jessie’s Quick Curls

Get weightless curls with this fast-acting styling cream with the fresh scent and conditioning formula. Water, mineral oil, polyquaternium-11 (style holder”>, cyclopentasiloxane (increases slip”>, glycerin, and PPG-5 Ceteth-20 (emollient”> make up the first six ingredients in this lightweight cream that is great for holding a style.

Living Proof Curl Defining Styling Cream

Get extra conditioning and light hold with Living Proof Curl Defining Styling Cream. Block frizz and humidity while conditioning your strands and achieving touchable soft curls.

Coily Type 4 Hair

Cantu Shea Butter Coconut Curling Cream

Define, condition and add manageability to your curls and coils with this sweet smelling curl cream. With water, canola oil, glycerin, and cetearyl alcohol help to restore your curls and shine without mineral oil, sulfates, parabens, or silicones.

Curls Unleashed Take Command Curl Defining Crème

Water, coconut oil, shea butter, safflower seed oil, and soybean oil are the nourishing ingredients in this hard working curl cream. Define, elongate, and soften your curls without flaking or shrinkage.

Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper Styling Cream

Your coils and curls get amazing hold without the frizz in this pH balancing curl cream. Made ingredients like water, propylene glycol, and glycerin to reactivate your curls and fight frizz in humid weather.

Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Crème

Water, coconut oil, vegetable oil, aloe vera leaf juice, cetyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol are the first six ingredients in this medium holding curl defining cream. This curl definer fights humidity without compromising on moisture and style.

What’s your favorite styling cream?

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The Benefits of Glycolic Acid for Hair

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 29, 2016

Photo by Staras — Getty Images

Hair ages just like the rest of our bodies, and as beauty brands scour the earth to keep us younger, firmer, and fit, we sometimes find those same anti-aging ingredients for skin in our hair care products.

Alpha-hydroxides and skin

Alpha-hydroxides (AHA”> have been used for years in the beauty industry for their anti-aging properties. They are used for diminishing wrinkles, making skin more supple and moisturized, and even improving the complexion and texture of skin. They are natural acids found in plants, fruits, and milk and are used as chemical exfoliants that remove the outer layer of dead skin cells bringing about fresher new skin to the surface.

Glycolic, lactic, citric, and salicylic acids are all AHAs with salicylic acid is the most popular because it is the simplest, smallest, and able to penetrate skin deeply and easily. Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and has a reputation for being one of the safest of all AHAs in treating fine lines, acne, blackheads, and even skin.

Glycolic acid and hair

While numerous studies have shown the benefits of AHA, namely glycolic acid on skin, the benefits of hair was relatively unknown until DuPont and the Textile Research Institute (TRI”> in Princeton, New Jersey, conducted several studies in 2009 on the effects of glycolic acid in hair care products. They conducted four experiments: Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC”> Test – testing the temperature on hair (like heat styling”>, tensile strength, repeated brushing, and wet combing. They found adding glycolic acid to hair improved the protection and manageability by conditioning, moisturizing, strengthening while also preventing breakage. This was the same outcome for healthy and bleached hair. They also found it helped hair to maintain its moisture and stay stronger at high temperatures like heat styling. There was more lubricity to hair which created less friction and tangles and overall better manageability factor.

Glycolic acid in your products

Hair care lines are catching onto the goodness of AHAs with glycolic acid and lauric acid as the main stars in their products. They are used in shampoos, conditioners, and detanglers for their cleansing, conditioning, and detangling abilities but also because they strengthen and keep hair moisturized. While AHAs are making their way into hair care products, it is a slow process for all of them to be used. We find more hair products with citric acid or lactic acid but glycolic is making its way into lesser curly girl known products. We know this trend is gaining steam but here are a few below for you to check out.

Aqua Glycolic Shampoo & Body Cleanser – This shampoo and body cleanser has a pH level adjuster, water, glycolic acid, and glycerin to not only clean but to also keep hair moisturized.
Dfine Volumizing Glycolic Shampoo | Rx Systems – Active ingredients like glycolic acid and aloe vera not only cleanses but repairs scalp and generates volume for visibly fuller and healthier strands.
Dfine Volumizing Glycolic Conditioner | Rx Systems – With active ingredients glycolic acid and hydrolyzed collagen, this overall body conditioner restores hair’s moisture and pH levels in the hair and scalp.

Gravity & Curly Hair: This is Why Your Hair’s "Not Growing"

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 26, 2016

Photo Courtesy of Jacob Ammentorp Lund — Getty Images

Curly hair has a mind of its own. You can use the same products in the same weather conditions and still have varying looks of our curls, coils, and waves. We know this and accept it because that is what makes our hair so beautiful. On the downside you can tire of wanting a certain look and not always being able to achieve it. With hair growth being one of the top five concern for curly girls, seeing that length retention can often become difficult because of the structure of our hair. It can be challenging to understand why it grows out before growing down, and curly girl Shaleia.McEl, inquired about why her hair is healthy but not growing in Curly Q&A.

Question

Why isn’t my hair growing? I love my hair and I almost have all of the damaged hair cut away from the last time I used heat (a week before Thanksgiving”> but I noticed that my hair isn’t really attaining any length. It’s frustrating to no end and I don’t know what to do! I have 3c hair in the back, 4a hair behind my ears, and 3b hair in the front. I use the curly girl method on my hair. I pre-poo before every wash then try to deep condition (always running out”>.

When I get out of the shower I let my hair dry for a couple minutes (it takes a lot of water to wet my hair but it dries very quickly”> in a towel then put in coconut oil, leave-in conditioner, and lastly a curl enhancing cream (I go between DevaCurl SuperCream and Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie“>. Then I put my hair in a braid-out, put on a hair bonnet, and let it out in the morning. Now I thought that it could be my ends brushing against my shoulders so I’ve been using up-dos on a weekly basis and other protective styles, but it hasn’t made any difference. My hair is the healthiest it has ever been and I have a lot more volume but the length is the same. I don’t know what to do and I’m at my wits end. PLEASE HELP.

Answer

Your hair is growing. Hair continues to grow and often we confuse hair growth with length retention, which is retaining the oldest hair (the ends”> and not losing them through breakage. Your routine sounds solid and you state your hair is healthier than it has ever been. You are doing a great job of protecting your ends as loose ends are in constant contact with clothing, purse straps, or even the outdoor elements and may fray or become damaged quicker than ends that are put away or protected. It sounds like you have high porosity hair since it dries so quickly. I would recommend switching up the order in which you apply your coconut oil and leave-in conditioner, try applying the leave-in conditioner first to moisturize your hair followed by the oil to seal it in.

Now, before we assume you are struggling with breakage let’s discuss a popular problem curly girls face with their hair, namely hair shrinkage.

What is shrinkage?

Hair shrinkage is when individual strands compress themselves into tight rotations, causing the hair to grow outward. While some believe that curly hair grows slower than straight hair, that is a myth as all hair grows around ¼ to ½ an inch per month, depending on your health and genetics. Our hair just bends and curves and the length cannot be easily seen unless straightened out. Type 4s tend to have the most shrinkage with their tighter coils and you said you had some Type 4 coils on your head so that may be giving the illusion that the hair is not growing.

Many curly girls do yearly or semi-yearly length checks to determine how much has grown. Your hair may appear to be getting “bigger” instead of longer, and a yearly length check is a great way to determine if it is retaining length that may not be showing.

Could be time for a trim

Often when we feel our hair is not retaining length it may be due to raggedy ends that need to be trimmed, which is necessary to retain length. Frayed or damaged ends can lead to damage further up the hair shaft and keep your curls from attaining their full growth potential.

Try scalp massages

You can always enlist in scalp massages with natural oils to promote blood circulation to your hair follicles and create a rich environment for hair growth. Doing this a few times a week can be relaxing and a great way to boost your hair’s growth.

Moisturize and seal

Dry and brittle hair breaks, so keeping your hairs hydrated and sealed combat that breakage and in turn gives you more length retention. Deep conditioning after every wash, hot oil treatments, and enlisting in the LOC method will aid in keeping those strands moisturized and sealed. The LOC method is a particular order in which you apply your products as I mentioned above. Start with your leave-in conditioner (L”>, seal in the moisture with an oil (O”>, followed by a cream (C”>.

"Is there a product that can help relax the roots a bit while my hair grows out? "

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 22, 2016

Photo by alvarez — Getty Images

Transitioning is a popular term in recent years. Transitioning is the discontinuation of using permanent straighteners in an effort to allow your natural texture to grow out. Any woman who has previously straightened her curls and chooses to now wear her hair naturally will have a transitioning period, and the same rules apply on how to handle it. Cef with 3b hair finds herself in this situation and inquired about how to fix it in Curly Q&A section.

Question

Serious trouble with curly roots while hair is growing out from permanent straightening!! I got a permanent hair straightening treatment back in June. It was not supposed to be permanent (should only last a couple of months”>, but it is January, and my hair is still board straight with the exception of the 1.5″ roots, which are curly (I cannot even get the straight parts to be a little bit wavy using both a leave-in conditioner and Curls Rock- which was my go-to product for my naturally curly hair”>. I had my hair cut so it is shoulder length- which helped remove the dead ends, but I cannot straighten it every day as I feel it is breaking, and I now have 2 different textures. Is there a product that can help relax the roots a bit while my hair grows out? There is a BIG difference between the roots and the rest of my hair. My curly hair starts at the roots- it is not slightly wavy at the roots and then the curls start several inches out. Has anyone else gone through this?

Answer

Yes, other women have gone through this and it is called transitioning either with the big chop (where you cut all the permanently straightened hair”> or you long-term transition (where you allow your natural texture to grow out and slowly cut off the straightened ends.”> Long-term transitioning can be anywhere from a few months to two years, as the decision to cut the remaining straightened hairs is completely up to you.

Mixing the two textures is an obvious solution to your problem but how to do it can be challenging. First off, steering clear of heat is a great idea especially since you are worried about breakage. You do not want to incur heat damage from the constant heat styling, so many transitioners opt for curly styles that can be achieved several ways. Also, there are heatless methods to stretch your hair.

Perm Rods

Perm rods are exactly what you expect, and while in the past they have been associated with little elderly women getting perms, they are highly prized and accepted by all. In the natural hair community they are used for amazing curly styles that last and give hair a uniform curl. They come in several different sizes and can be used under a hooded dryer or air-dried. This will allow your hair to have one texture instead of two, giving your hair the uniformity you seek until you are ready to cut the remaining straight hairs.

Twist outs and braid outs

Twist outs and braid outs are another popular transitioning style where hair is twisted or braided into small sections and unraveled leaving a uniform curl or wave pattern. While some may find them tedious others find them as a great protective style or excellent at masking different textures. When transitioning, grip your roots firmly but not too tightly to get a uniform twist or braid all the way to the ends. Use rollers or perm rods to curl the bottom straightened strands or you will have curly roots and wavy hairs on the bottom. Trial and error can guide you on which works better for uniformity in your hair curls.

Wearing styles that help hide the two textures

Buns, updos, ponytails, weaves, braids, or wigs are all viable styling options to help mask the two textures until you are ready to snip the rest of the straightened ends. Rocking hats, scarves, or big headbands give you a variety of styles to hide your varying textures too. Now, you always have the choice to cut it all off right now but know there are other possibilities. The options mentioned above will allow you to keep your hair at your desired length and still have amazing styles because transitioning can be for anyone who wants to go back to their hair’s true texture.

Not Just for Skin: Alpha Hydroxy Acid Is Great for Your Hair Too!

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 20, 2016

Photo by Tihis — Getty Images

Anti-aging is big business. We all want to live forever or at the very least look younger than we are. As we continue to search for the fountain of youth, there are products and ingredients out there already giving us some help in keeping our skin younger, more supple, and moisturized. One such ingredient popping up is alpha hydroxy acid (AHA”> and one of the simplest and smallest is glycolic acid, which is derived from cane sugar and deeply penetrates the skin.

What does AHA do to skin?

According to the FDA, “AHA-containing products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH, and other ingredients in the product.” They are used in smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin tone and texture, unblocking and cleansing pores while improving the condition of the skin. They are formulated in multiple skin care products and lately there has been a surge of AHAs in hair care products.

What does it do to hair?

DuPont and the Textile Research Institute (TRI”> in Princeton, New Jersey, conducted several studies in 2009 on the effects of glycolic acid in hair care products. They found AHA can also bring benefits to hair by enhancing the protection and manageability of hair by conditioning, moisturizing, strengthening, and even preventing hair breakage in both healthy and chemically altered (bleached”> hair. Glycolic acid creates a lubricity to hair that allows for easier detangling and even protects the hair against heat styling tools. It also helps restore the strength and elasticity of the strands and another popular AHA found in cosmetics and hair products are citric acid. AHAs are ideal in shampoos because they strip the hair of the dirt, pollutants, and products without stripping it of the much needed moisture.

Glycolic acid is not the only AHA found in hair care products, let alone the only acid to help your strands. Lactic acid, another popular AHA for cosmetics, is found in several shampoos for aiding in smoothing dry, scaly hair making it more manageable. AHAs are ideal in shampoos because they strip the hair of the dirt, pollutants, and products without stripping the hair’s moisture.

These popular AHAs can be found in several shampoos and conditioners for cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, and aiding in detangling. While the name may sound harmful, they are anything but, as they aid in anti-aging, sun protection, and strengthening your strands. Here are a few hair products with the power of AHAs.

Products with AHA

Do You Have to Flat Iron Your Hair for a Sew-in?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 20, 2016

Photo by PeopleImages — Getty Images

Too often curly girls have found themselves in the uncomfortable position of having to alter their hair for a service. Whether getting a haircut, a trim, or adding extensions, curly girls were led to believe they had to straighten their hair so the stylist could style their hair. Thankfully we can discard that notion.

With hair that craves moisture, loves oils, and gravitates to the sun, it takes slightly different care to achieve certain styles. That includes sew-ins, braids, and twists. Not so long ago curly girls had to straighten their hair for those types of styles, and Wormaby with 4a coils from Curly Q&A is inquiring whether a sew-in requires straightening her curls.

Question

I want to get a sew-in but do I have to flat iron my hair to get one. I don’t want my hair flat ironed.

Answer

No, you do not need to flat iron your hair for a sew-in. There are a few ways to prep your hair for a sew-in if the styler would prefer your hair to be straight or stretched without using a flat iron.

Stretch your hair

It seems odd that rolling or curling your hair will straighten it, but it can work. Curlformers or large rollers are both great options to stretch the hair while it dries, whether air-drying or under a hooded dryer. Once the hair is dry you can wrap for straighter results so it will be in optimal condition for a sew-in, braids, or any style necessary for adding extensions.

Before you install…

Here are some tips for any time you decide to install a sew-in, braids, or any added hairstyle.

Curly hair is fragile

This does not mean you cannot straighten it or should not use sew-ins.; it just means we need extra TLC. Always use a heat protectant and make sure your added hair is not installed too tightly. These are just a few rules to follow but it also helps to know what options you have when constructing certain styles. Ensuring your hair detangled and stretched makes it is easier to work by reducing the potential for friction and breakage.

See if a trim is necessary

It is always good to make sure your hair is in peak condition, so getting a trim to rid your hair of raggedy or split ends prior to a sew-in is a good idea.

Properly cleanse and condition the hair

That means using a deep conditioner too. You want your hair in the best possible shape prior to installing a weave of any kind.

Stretching your hair may be ideal for the one installing your sew-in, but straightened hair from a flat-iron is not a requirement. First, see if your hairstylist needs your hair to be stretched. If so, then try one of the methods mentioned above and make sure to have your hair in prime shape by being clean, conditioned, detangled, and moisturized and without split ends.

Can a Haircut Make You Lose Your Curls?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 15, 2016

Photo by Pyrosky — Getty Images

Quite often we receive questions in the Curly Q&A section about hair changing and it is not always from chemicals or heat usage. We have mothers asking if cutting a baby’s hair will change the hair texture and questions from our Type 2 wavy-haired readers wondering if a haircut will change their curl pattern.

What makes hair texture change?

Hair changes throughout our lives. In fact, our hair changes from every 5 to 7 years, according to Christo of the Christo Fifth Avenue Salon and creator of the Curlisto line of hair products. As we grow and our bodies change, we can also see a change in our hair texture. Why this happens is still a mystery to science but we do know hormones are somehow related to this phenomenon. This is why a toddler can be seen with adorable ringlets and end up with straight hair when puberty hits. Other attributes for hair texture changes are diet, hormones, illnesses, and medication.

Hair changes occurring from chemicals are altogether different, and that can be chemicals from straightening treatments to permanent color, but chemicals can cause change more than the texture like hair loss, thinning, or damage to the scalp. So, does a haircut get added to the list of why hair texture can change?

Can simply getting a haircut change one’s hair texture?

The short answer is no, but for an explanation on what some Type 2 wavies may be experiencing I enlisted the help of American Board Certified Haircolorist and hairstylist Monaé Everett.

Monaé states: “While a haircut cannot change your hair texture it certainly can help make your curl pattern more apparent. If you have a looser curl pattern (2-3a“> and a very short or tapered style, the strand may be snipped before the strand begins to loop into a curl. This can make the curl appear looser. On the contrary, the weight of a long hair cut stretch curls and make them appear looser. A proper haircut can reduce the unwanted bulk (volume/poof”> of curly hair as well. Those with medium to coily hair textures will notice a tighter curl appearance with shorter haircuts (from 2-12 inches in length”>.”

It is all about perception when it comes to a haircut and our curls. While stress, medications, chemicals or hormones may alter your curls, a haircut will not. If you cut at a peculiar spot, one’s curls may appear to change but it is a temporary issue that will return to normal once the hair has grown back. Whether it’s the weight of one’s hair or the reduction in volume from the shears, cutting your hair changes the shape, size, and bulk but it does not change the texture.

How to Blend Your Natural Hair Extensions

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 13, 2016

Photo by Predrag Vuckovic — Getty Images

Hair extensions are older than you think, with the first documented proof of hair weaves from the Egyptians in 3400 B.C. They wore wigs, hair pieces, and braids all made of human hair or dyed sheep’s wool with resin and beeswax used to attach them. All of these weaves and wigs of the past have led us to hair extensions today where variety is abundant and all hair types are included. With the growth of the natural hair movement, naturally kinky and coily-textured extensions are massively popular with women who want to rock their natural texture with more length or body. With demand high, supply is meeting the challenge with numerous natural hair extension lines from wigs to clip-ins to wefts.

If you are not hair savvy or used to rocking extensions, then blending it can be challenging. Blending is simply making the extensions mesh naturally with your own texture. For that reason we wanted to enlist the help of an expert at natural hair extensions, Kimali, also known as the woman behind Xotica Hair.

Know your texture

Kimali has plenty of tips on blending your hair with natural hair extensions, but “none is more important than knowing your hair texture so that you can select an extension that best matches your own. You would be surprised how often there is confusion around this. Finding the right texture will make the blending process easier.”

Twist your leave out

Kimali recommends twisting or intertwining your leave out with the hair extension as a great way to help the hair blend seamlessly “especially if you’re wearing a kinkier texture; make sure the ends of your short hair is not sticking out from the extension which could be an easy giveaway to others that you’re wearing extensions; using a bit of hair gel like EcoStyler gel would be quite useful in the intertwining process to smooth those ends down.”

Or try a two strand twist

Another tip or option for blending shorter hair with longer natural kinky extensions would be to two strand twist your own hair with the extension during the installation. Kimali says “This tip/method will allow your own hair and the extension to take the same pattern at takedown (when you untwist/unravel them”>. Flat twisting your leave out, doing Bantu knots, as well as curling your leave out with perm rods can also be an option to create kinks and curls that match the natural hair extension and help to blend.”

If all else fails

If all else fails Kimali recommends using “a pretty silk or satin scarf to tie around the front of your hair which will serve to camouflage your leave out as well as it will work as a beautiful, stylish hair accessory or go with a matching closure (that matches the extensions”>, then you will never have to worry about blending.”

Blending is right up there with installation as one of the more difficult maintenance issues with extensions. It may even be a valid reason why some opt for wigs, full closure sew-ins, or not wear them at all but as demand keeps running high, the brands are finding easier ways for women to rock them with little to no effort. I wore clip-ins on Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve and it was fairly simply to hide my hair. I avoided the problem of blending for fear of it looking bad but now see how a few steps can make all the difference in the world.

Natural hair extensions are great for versatility in styling and even coloring, as human hair extensions can be dyed, and now with blending tips I think we will continue to see them make even bigger waves in the natural hair community.

Do you have natural hair extension questions or problems that we can address?

I Use Only One Product

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 12, 2016

Photo by felixmizioznikov — Getty Images

Minimalism is living with less or clearing the clutter from one’s life path, and that can be implemented within all aspects of one’s life from health to hair care. We discuss the importance of cleansing, conditioning, deep conditioning, and protein treatments all being vital components of healthy hair care, but what if that is not necessary for all curly girls? NaturallyCurly reader CurlyMe3C inquired about this in our Curly Q&A and wondered if she was missing something in her hair care routine.

Question

I only ever use one product on my hair, is this a good or bad thing?

Aside from using conditioner on my hair as a co wash and hardly deep conditioning my hair, I only use one product which is a moisturizer that leaves my hair completely soft and moisturized!! The moisturizer I use is called Sofn’ Free Curl Moisturizer with Vitamin E and Panthenol 2-in-1 Activator, this product has been helping my hair grow – before I had found this product no matter the regimen I had my hair would always feel very dry by the end of the day. I would love to know if this is a good or bad thing to only use a moisturizer with no leave in conditioner. I also sometimes apply JBCO after my moisturizer. The ingredients of the product are also listed below – please let me know if any of the ingredients is harmful to my hair.

Answer

Never feel you have to be using everything mentioned or recommended as we all have unique hair. Not every regimen or product is necessary or even a good fit for each and every curly girl, so if you are making it work with a conditioner (as a co-wash and conditioner”> and a moisturizer as your leave-in, then you are a minimalist at heart.

You are in good hands by using an activator for a moisturizer because they are superb moisturizers, detanglers, and even curl enhancers. Humectants are the reason activators are superior at moisturizing, and quite often that humectant ingredient is glycerin.

Here are the first 6 ingredients in the Sofn’ Free curl moisturizer with Vitamin E and Panthenol 2-in-1 Activator:

Water: hydrating
Glycerin: humectant
Propylene glycol: effective moisturizer
Behentrimonium methosulfate: mild hair detangler
Cetearyl alcohol: fatty alcohol
PPG-10 cetyl ether: emollient

You cannot go wrong with a top ingredient list like this one where moisturizing is its #1 purpose. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone are equally popular and liked silicones that also aid in detangling so the consensus is this product is great for giving you what your hair needs. If no other product is needed for fighting frizz (if that is what you want”> or styling then you are not in need of anything. I do suggest a few things:

Do not use your regular conditioner as a deep conditioner

They have different ingredients because they have different purposes and you will not be getting the proper effects of a deep conditioner in that way.

Enlist in a deep conditioner

Deep conditioners have ingredients that can penetrate the hair shaft unlike traditional daily conditioners. Try to use at least monthly to make sure you are protecting all layers of the hair strand from damage.

Read more: Top 20 Deep Conditioners

Check for dryness in the future as you may need a protein treatment

If you ever see a difference in your hair, then a protein treatment might help. Maintaining a good moisture-protein balance is essential to healthy hair. You have a great regimen that may occasionally need some of these other products mentioned, but if it is working then by all means do it and do not worry about anything else.

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How to Moisturize Your Hair in a Very Dry Climate

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 12, 2016

Photo by tonda — Getty Images

Humidity is the devil. It makes curly girls think twice when we check the weather prior to leaving our homes. While most curly girls dread the thought of a humid summer day, there are actually some of us of who relish the moisture because our curls respond well to it. Dry or arid climates also pose problems to moisture-seeking curls, waves, and coils, and when you move from a humid climate to a dry one, your hair will have some major adjustments to make. Dreamwhopper is one such curly girl and inquired about what to do in Curly Q&A.

Question

Lost some curl when I moved from the Midwest to Arizona. Any suggestions to get my curl back?

I do color my hair, but I have for years. When I lived in Kansas I had the best curls, I’m sure the humidity helped, but now since I live in Phoenix my curls are kinda limp! I have tried five or six different curl products. Since I have a nail license I can buy from the distributors. Would love to hear any suggestions….thank you in advance!

Answer

Climate is a factor in how your curls behave. Many are unaware until they move or visit a place different from their residence but where you live plays a huge part in how your hair looks, feels, and is willing to cooperate. Humidity and dew points are not the only environmental factors that affect our hair. Pollutants, sun, and wind all affect our hair and moving to another climate means learning or protecting your hair from those elements. Since humidity is a major concern let’s find out exactly what it is.

What is humidity?

The simplified definition would be the amount of water vapor in the air but this is not entirely true. According to Jeffrey Hovis, a science, and operations officer with the National Ocean and Atmospheric Administration’s National Weather Service in Charleston, WV: “The air that we breathe is made up of numerous gases, including water vapor. The term humidity generally refers to the amount of this water vapor in the atmosphere.” Relative humidity, a term often used by weather persons, is the measurement of the actual amount of moisture in the air in comparison to the total amount the hair can actually hold.

As I stated before, humidity it not the only environmental factor one has to deal with. The amount of water vapor in the hair does affect our curls. The water in the atmosphere attaches to the hair strands, absorbs, and causes your strands to swell, causing frizzy and mushy hair. However, living in a dry climate such as Phoenix and you have a whole host of problems the drier climate inflicts on your curls. Hey, I know the struggle as I have been living in Denver for over ten years. The dry air not only affects your hair but your skin takes a beating as well. Here are some tips for living in a drier climate for curly, wavy, and coily girls.

Steer clear of drying shampoos

Shampoos with harsh sulfates are doing your dry curls no favors! Try gentle sulfate-free shampoos, cleansing conditioners, clay washes, or diluting your shampoo, to help keep those strands moisturized and less dry.

Shampoo less

No one really needs to shampoo daily anyway and that goes double for curly girls. When living in a drier climate excessive shampooing may be stripping your strands of those precious natural oils you desperately need. Harsh shampoos will dry out those strands so maybe alternate with a co-wash. Messy buns or ponytail styles are great for dirty hair days.

Pre-poo

A pre-poo is a great way to add moisture to your hair prior and de-stress the effects of the shampooing. Even if you choose to not do it every wash, make sure to do it prior to washing with a sulfate shampoo to help stave off the dryness.

Try some oil-based products

Make sure your conditioners have natural oils in them or just add your favorite one to your conditioning process. I always add jojoba oil or SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Finishing Elixir to my deep conditioner and my leave-in conditioner to help seal in moisture.

Condition, condition, and then condition some more

Never skip conditioning your hair and make sure to deep condition after every wash. Conditioners work with shampoos and a regular conditioner will condition the cuticle, help it to lie flat, and be smooth. A deep conditioner will penetrate the hair shaft and nourish the cuticle with the oils, amino acids, and nutrients.

Sun protection

Protecting your hair from the intense UV rays, which will degrade your hair color and cause dry, brittle strands. That can also be giving your hair that limp, dry, and brittle feeling.

Read more: Protect Your Hair from the Sun

Invest in a humidifier

Great for skin and hair when living in a drier climate, humidifiers provide external moisture when it is in short supply in the air. Just like a steamer (also a great choice”>, they provide excellent moisture to the air, which is great for winter months when most of us are cranking our heaters up. That may not be helpful for Phoenix weather but the humidifier will combat the dryness that your skin and hair may be feeling.

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10 Years Natural: Then vs. Now

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 11, 2016

I have been natural for over ten years now and the change has been for the better in my life as a whole. It has not always been an easy transition but every single stumble, mistake, and victory was worth it. Ten years ago I was rocking weaves, braids, and wigs while damaging my hair by neglect and simply worrying about my family and that dreaded 9 to 5.

I would have to say it was around five years ago when I felt I had a true and confident handle on my regimen. I knew what worked and what didn’t but it was exactly three years ago this month that I enlisted in the Curly Girl Method (CGM”> and when I saw a real difference in my hair. Here’s how my regimen has changed over the years.

Cleansing

Prior to the CGM, I struggled to find a shampoo that I loved or one that did not give me dandruff. I staved off the dandruff by adding a few drops of tea tree oil to my shampoo and that would last a few months, but I always fought stringy strands that were ready to knot up no matter what shampoo I tried. It was daunting to say the least so when I started the CGM I heard about As I Am Coconut CoWash from MahoganyCurls and fell in love! I usually cleansed weekly or biweekly.

I still love As I Am Coconut CoWash but have also added Aveda’s Be Curly Co-wash and alternate. I also have added shampoo back into the regimen. I still hate shampoo but know the importance of it so I use one of the best shampoos out that will give lather without stripping and clean without damaging: SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Shampoo. I use it when I haven’t shampooed in a while or when I use a non-CGM friendly product (usually has silicones“> as my hair likes silicones but not all the time.

Conditioning

I conditioned my hair in the shower almost daily and then applied a leave-in conditioner or regular conditioner to my coils. I was using mostly Kinky-Curly Knot Today and the Kinky-Curly Curling Custard but I was also dabbling in other popular conditioners like Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose and Giovanni Direct Leave-in. On wash day I deep conditioned overnight, rinsed out in the morning, and styled as usual.

Now I deep condition but only for 30 min. under a heat thermal cap. I have fallen in love with SheaMoisture Manuka Honey & Mafura oil Conditioner and add pumps of SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Finishing Elixir or drops of jojoba oil before applying to my hair. I now only rewet my hair once after wash day.

Sealing

I was all about the coconut oil back then and sealed my hair with it after I liberally applied my conditioner. I simply put a dab in the palms of my hair, rubbed them together, and ran it down my sectioned hair sealing all that goodness in.

Styling

Styling is simple. I run Kinky-Curly Curling Custard to freshly conditioned and sectioned hair. Then, I pull it back in a low ponytail with an ouchless barrette until almost dry and then shake loose. I was a wash and go fiend but now I have backed off from wetting my hair during the weekends (except to cleanse”>. Occasionally I skipped a weekday or two but back then this was my daily routine.

Overnight

I used to wear a satin bonnet at night to protect my hair, but I was left with a smashed and modified TWA. I tried the pineapple several times but my hair remained stretched and defied gravity.

The satin bonnet was a failure for me but now I only sleep on a satin pillowcase and my trusty Loc Soc. The Loc Soc saves my style better than any other product I have tried the last few years. It gives me second and third day hair with a spritz or dab of conditioner or gel.

Refreshing

My spray bottle is filled with distilled water and lavender. My hair is soft, coily, and most of the time, I just need it to fluff in the morning. Back then I was working way too hard, but most of my problem was in my lack of a proper nighttime preserving routine and not taking out time to perfect my washday styling session. By finding the Loc Soc to preserve my hair at night and making sure all coils had conditioner and gel on my hair I was able to finally achieve second, third, and even fourth day hair.

How has your regimen changed?

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Does Cold Water Really Close the Cuticle?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 8, 2016

Photo by Alejandro Rivera — Getty Images

We incessantly discuss curly, wavy, and coily hair for the absolute best reason. The more you know, the better you can maintain healthy and gorgeous curls. It takes work but it also takes knowledge and in a time where you can search just about anything, you can often find more information than you can process and it may be misleading or confusing. As we strive for perfect hair the best way to obtain it is knowing how to properly care for it, so for now let’s discuss the hair cuticle.

What is the hair cuticle?

The hair cuticle is the translucent outer layer of the hair shaft that has scales (similar to roof shingles”> that covers the cortex. The cuticle is made of an extremely hard protein called keratin. It has great significance in the look, feel, and overall health of your hair, as it is responsible for allowing moisture to pass into the hair shaft and whether or not it stays there.

Why does the cuticle matter?

The cells in the cuticle work defensively to prevent damage to the cortex and medulla. When over-manipulation, chemical and heat applications, styling tools are used in excess, the cuticle can become chipped away or damaged, which weakens the integrity of the hair. The cuticle matters because it is your hair’s natural line of defense to protect itself. The pH scale goes from 1-14 with the perfect pH at 5.5 to 6.5. The higher the pH of a product, the wider the hair cuticles will be raised.

Does steam open the cuticle?

Moisture from the steam causes the hair shaft to swell and slightly lift the cuticle but not as much as something like an alkaline product like color or a relaxer. Those types of products raise or open the cuticle much easier than steam or wider than steam and ultimately can cause damage to the strand. Using steam therapy helps curly girls with low porosity to capture the moisture and some ingredients in deep conditioners to adsorb to the cuticle.

Does cold water close the cuticle?

Hot, warm, or steamed water may swell and slightly raise the cuticle but cold water will not close it. That’s the job of the conditioner to help smooth or close the cuticle.

Does ACV and tea rinses actually add shine?

ACV is hailed as a great tool for adding shine to your hair and many curly girls swear by it. I use tea rinses (black tea”> pretty regularly for strengthening and combatting shedding. The caffeine in tea (and coffee”> can stimulate hair growth for those suffering from hair loss that is repairable, according to The Natural Haven.

Can your hair have too much protein?

Yes! Protein overload can cause hair to become brittle and dry because just like most anything with life, you can get too much of a good thing. Some think that overloading with protein will just make the hair stronger but all it does it throw off the protein-moisture balance, and that makes hair more prone to breakage, damage, and even frizz. Most of us do not need protein weekly or even monthly especially if you are not using permanent color, relaxers, or heat applications. I get away with using a protein treatment every couple of months but using it weekly or even bimonthly may be too much and lower the moisture in your hair making it brittle and dry. Check your products if you feel you may be suffering from protein overload as protein can be in the form of hydrolyzed wheat, silk, vegetable, collagen, or even animal.

Can you use anything with proteins?

For proteins to temporarily fill in the gaps along the cuticle they must be small enough. Coconut milk, eggs, and mayonnaise do contain proteins, but they are too large to be fill in the chipped or damaged cuticle. You’ll want to either use Greek yogurt or search for products with hydrolyzed proteins to ensure the proteins are small enough to attach.

What can penetrate the cuticle? What can’t penetrate the cuticle?

Coconut oil, olive oil, and avocado oils are three oils that penetrate the hair shaft, helping to retain moisture. Coconut oil is great to apply before washing your hair, as it helps to prevent hygral fatigue.

Does Too Much Shampoo Cause an Oilier Scalp?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 8, 2016

Whether you co-wash, clay wash, water only wash, or use shampoo, the very necessary act of cleansing your hair and scalp is essential in healthy hair care, as it removes dirt, pollutants, product buildup, and excess sebum. When you cleanse your hair too often or with products that are too harsh for your hair and scalp, things can go wrong. Some think that shampooing too often can create a problem of over-production of sebum. Are we washing away too much of a good thing? Before we can answer that question we need to know what sebum is and what it does.

What is sebum?

Sebum is produced from the sebaceous glands and can be found anywhere on our body except the palms of our hands and the soles of our feet. Sebum is a lipid that contains squalene and does not dissolve in water. This fat-soluble compound is like cholesterols; it is secreted through the skin and is important in the skin surface lipid film that protects the body from external environments. The main purpose of sebum is to protect the hair and scalp from drying out.

How is sebum created?

Sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands found in the skin and mucus membranes. The gland cells last only around a week from formation to discharge. Sebum is a complex cocktail of lipids including glycerides, free fatty acids, cholesterol esters, cholesterol, squalene, and wax esters. Sebum does not come from the fats and oils consumed in our diets but instead from a specialized natural process.

Why do we need sebum?

Sebum is essential for the integrity and normal function of the skin as a protective organ. It is secreted to the outer skin from the sebaceous glands to maintain moisture of the skin, scalp, and hair. It is also necessary in keeping bacterial infections from getting in by creating a barrier on the skin to block them from entering our bodies. Sebum also smooths the overlapping cells of hair strands which aid in making them softer and more elastic.

Can a body produce too much sebum?

An overproduction of sebum (where the skin and hair feels extremely oil, greasy and lifeless”>, is usually associated with a change in the hormonal levels in the body. It causes the scalp to feel extremely greasy. Another culprit could be excessively drying the scalp, which causes the hair follicles to produce more sebum to counter the dryness. Sebum production is under the control androgens and the pituitary gland which is located in the brain.

Does sebum cause acne?

Sebum does not cause acne although the over-production of sebum can exacerbate the proliferation of acne. Other popular misconceptions are that makeup causes the over-production of sebum either and a greasy diet causes excessive production of sebum. Don’t believe these myths.

Does excessive shampooing increase sebum?

It can according to Michelle Hanjani, a dermatologist at Columbia University. She told NPR that when you are washing your hair you are removing sebum and if you do that daily (or too often”> then the oil glands compensate by producing more oil (or sebum”>. While she suggest persons with straight hair can hold off for a couple of times a week, she did go on to say that African Americans and others with curly hair can go even longer between washes.

It seems we came a long way to get to the answer but it makes sense when you finally understand what sebum is, where it comes from, how it is produced, and why excessive shampooing does in fact negatively affect the production of it. Sebum keeps our skin moisturized (scalp included”> and when the skin is too dry it will jump into production mode. So, wash when necessary, maybe even try the CG method and know that sebum is a necessary component of healthy hair care and not a dirty, oily word.

"How do I get my bangs to curl like the rest of my hair?"

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 8, 2016

Photo by of Atmo-Sphere — Getty Images

Many of us did not embrace our natural textures until we were doing our own hair. It is not easy going natural or working with your true hair’s texture if all you know what to do is how to straighten it. It can be discouraging for many women going natural when they did not get the desired results or if they notice radically different textures in your head.

One problem lots of curly girls face when embracing their curly hair is dealing with bangs. Bangs will always be popular but for curly girls they can be problematic to maintain, as they stick up, frizz up, or shrink up causing bad hair day mania. This is what anduran13 from Curly Q&A was facing as she inquired about what to do with her bangs now that she’s embracing her natural curls.

Question

How do I get my bangs to curl like the rest of my hair after years of straightening them? Hello everyone, I have type 3B hair (I think??”> and was never taught to embrace it. From age 4, my mom cut bangs into my hair and straightened them every day, I continued this pattern throughout my teenage years. I am now a senior in high school who still continuously straightens her bangs with a straightener. However, I just want to rock all my hair naturally and fully embrace it. I have tried this process but my bangs just won’t curl like the rest of my hair… they are more wavy than curly and it just looks extremely off. Any suggestions for getting my bangs back to their natural state? Thank you very much.

Answer

The problem you may be facing is heat damage to your bangs. “Heat damage occurs when the protein bonds in the hair have been permanently altered to the point that the hair does not return to its natural curl pattern and your hair struggles to retain moisture as it once did.” Using heat tools daily or even weekly can increase one’s chances for heat damage. Although heat damage is irreversible, those heat damaged strands can be masked until they grow out and you can gradually snip them away over time.

Fake it until you make it

The easiest way to handle heat damaged bangs is to give them the same texture as the other strands. You can achieve this with pin curls, a twist out, braid out, perm rods, or Bantu knots out. All of these techniques will give the bangs a curlier texture and blend in better with the rest of your hair.

Prevent further damage

Try to not exacerbate the problem by straightening or heat styling them or the rest of your hair anytime soon. If you feel strongly that you want to use heat tools, make sure you do so as safely as possible. It’s impossible to prevent heat damage entirely, but you can minimize the damage with a few easy steps. Shampoo and deep condition before using heat to thoroughly remove buildup and impart moisture. When you are ready to return to your curls, be sure to give your curls a deep conditioning treatment. Incorporate monthly deep treatments into your routine to help strengthen your hair, such as Duosity’s Double Whipped Repairing Treatment or ApHogee’s 2 Minute Reconstructor. If you only use heat on your bangs, you can focus your treatments on that section of your hair.

Start a healthy hair regimen

You cannot fix hair that has already been heat damaged but you can instill a healthy regimen that will help strengthen your strands and keep them looking great. Proper cleansing, conditioning, and regular protein treatments will get your hair in better shape and be more receptive to the styles you are trying to achieve.

Embrace bobby pins

As this heat damaged hair is growing out, you may need to resort to the bang-grow-out’s best friend: bobby pins. They can disguise your hair and keep them out of your face until the heat damaged hair has grown out and your natural curls have grown in! It can vary greatly, but the average speed of hair growth is about half an inch per month so you should be heat damage free within a few months.

Get regular trims

By getting regular trims you will be able to slowly snip away the heat damaged hair giving way to your healthy curls as they grow in. It will take time but trims are necessary as the heat damaged hair cannot be fixed. Trims also keep split ends at bay and give hair a healthier look.

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Are Those Products for Everyone?

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 7, 2016

Photo by Stacey Newman — Getty Images

For many, curl pattern does not matter but when shopping for hair care products but it does matter when it comes to styling products. I’m aware of this because when I hear the words “sea salt spray” I steer clear and I know I am not alone. There are even brands that include descriptions like wavy, curly, tight curls, and coily on the packaging. So we’ve listed products that many curly girls are curious about and discussed what they are intended to do and who may benefit the most by using it.

Sea salt spray

Sea salt spray helps to style hair into that sexy, wet, messy beachy look. It gives hair a light hold, wavy look. They have lighter ones to enhance waves or loose curls that yield a beachy texture. If you have Type 3 curls or Type 4 coils, this will not give you the hold you need to clump your curls and coils.

Dry shampoo

Many experts find washing hair too often is damaging, and dry shampoo is a quick and easy way to clean without over-cleaning one’s hair. It can be used in-between washes and is excellent for extension twists. Dry shampoo is a powdery substance that absorbs the oils, dirt, and product that can buildup on one’s scalp. This is for all hair types and the best ones tend to have nutrients in them. Texture guru Anthony Dickey suggests using dry shampoo for those with Type 2 or Type 3 wash and go’s styles and for Type 4 coils when maintaining straight styles.

Custard

Custards tend to get lumped together with hair butters and puddings since all three provide deep moisturizing hold. I love the Kinky-Curly Curling Custard although I consider it a gel it actually is a custard that adds moisture, shine and hold. A custard is a heavier product that women with Type 3 and 4 gravitate to and may be too much weight for Type 2, wavy hair. They are intended for curl definition, adding shine, and hold.

Soufflé

The main objective of a hair soufflé is to be light, touchable hold. It is a lightweight styler that will combat frizz without feeling greasy. Type 2 and 3s may find these more attractive although any Type 4s who are also looking for light holds may find this attractive if volume or touchable softness is their desire. The SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curling Soufflé is quite popular.

Butters

Hair butters can be all natural like mango butter or a blend of butters and oils. These thick. luscious products are nourishing and heavy. Most Type 4s and some Type 3s use them for their thick and creamy texture that adds moisture and softness. They are great for dry strands but may be too heavy for the Type 2 and looser Type 3 textures.

Edge tamers

Harsher gels with the so-called bad alcohols were used in year’s past but now there are edge tamers that use curl friendly ingredients for less stiff, dry, slicked edges. Edge tamers provide hold without flakes and are commonly used by women with Type 4 hair. They are used to control the fine hairs along the hairline called “baby hairs” for a slick finish.

Will it work for me?

As you probably noticed, many of these products cross over into other types of curl products so it can be challenging to determine which types would work best for you. I say opt for figuring out the style you are going for, then decide which product may give you that type of hold or look. Also, looking for YouTube reviews and tutorials can be helpful. The bottom line is you find out what works best by trial and error but this list should give you an excellent starting point.

"What’s the best and least painful way to detangle my wet matted hair?"

By Sabrina Perkins · Published January 6, 2016

Photo by Stockphoto4u — Getty Images

To detangle or not to detangle wet hair…that is the question! One of the most highly debatable methods for caring for curly, coily, and wavy hair is the act of detangling. Detangling can make or break a curly girl because it can be a tiresome and lengthy process. Now, it does not have to be, but as we are all unique, have different health concerns, live in different climates, and have different ages, we run into the problem on which way works best for each of us. With that comes trial and error so feeling that one method is the Holy Grail of detangling and is universally beneficial is not accurate. This is why there are different ways to detangle your hair. Ozal.Howard inquired about the wet method in our Curly Q&A section.

Question

What’s the best and least painful way and product to detangle my wet matted hair?

Answer

There are pros and cons to both wet and dry detangling. There is an optimal way (being less painful and less damaging”> to wet detangle your curls so let’s share how to do it.

First off, detangling is getting rid of shed hairs, knots, and tangles. It is done mostly prior to or during wash day but one can detangle whenever they see fit. I detangle in the shower right before I wash my hair, but when I rewet my hair and add conditioner (usually during the middle of the week”> I will do light detangling just to remove the shed hairs and not allow my hair to knot up too terribly. Yes, I am a wet detangler and see more benefit it doing it this way as the water aids in my detangling.

The object in wet detangling is enlisting the help of water, conditioner, and oils to remove the shed hair, knots, and tangles. Here are some tips on decreasing the time, damage, and pain factor in your wet detangling:

Completely saturate the hair

Let water aid in releasing shed hairs and stubborn knots. I never begin detangling until my hair is fully saturated. Even though hair is more fragile when wet, it is more flexible and easier to comb than with dry hair. You can also consider damp detangling so that your hair is stronger than being in a fully wet state.

Use tons of conditioner (usually a cheap one”>

The hair is in a weaker state when wet so slather on either a super cheap conditioner or detangler. These products use ingredients like silicones and marshmallow root to provide massive slip for releasing knots and tangles. Adding a few drops of your favorite oil will also help with detangling less painfully.

Less comb, more fingers

Try using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to release knots. Never use a small tooth comb. Finger detangling allows you to feel for the knots and tangles better. Finger detangling leaves for less manipulation of the strands and less breakage than using a comb.

Work in sections

It is always a good idea to work in small sections when detangling your curls, coils, and waves. This ensures all hairs are fully detangled and you do not become overwhelmed trying to detangle a full head at once.

Favorite detanglers

Here are some top-notch favorite detanglers that curly girls rave about. These detanglers will help in lessening the time and pain with wet detangling.

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