Search Results: Sabrina Perkins
What does AHA do to skin?
According to the FDA, “AHA-containing products cause exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. The extent of exfoliation depends on the type and concentration of the AHA, its pH, and other ingredients in the product.” They are used in smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin tone and texture, unblocking and cleansing pores while improving the condition of the skin. They are formulated in multiple skin care products and lately there has been a surge of AHAs in hair care products.
What does it do to hair?
DuPont and the Textile Research Institute (TRI”> in Princeton, New Jersey, conducted several studies in 2009 on the effects of glycolic acid in hair care products. They found AHA can also bring benefits to hair by enhancing the protection and manageability of hair by conditioning, moisturizing, strengthening, and even preventing hair breakage in both healthy and chemically altered (bleached”> hair. Glycolic acid creates a lubricity to hair that allows for easier detangling and even protects the hair against heat styling tools. It also helps restore the strength and elasticity of the strands and another popular AHA found in cosmetics and hair products are citric acid. AHAs are ideal in shampoos because they strip the hair of the dirt, pollutants, and products without stripping it of the much needed moisture.
Glycolic acid is not the only AHA found in hair care products, let alone the only acid to help your strands. Lactic acid, another popular AHA for cosmetics, is found in several shampoos for aiding in smoothing dry, scaly hair making it more manageable. AHAs are ideal in shampoos because they strip the hair of the dirt, pollutants, and products without stripping the hair’s moisture.
These popular AHAs can be found in several shampoos and conditioners for cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, and aiding in detangling. While the name may sound harmful, they are anything but, as they aid in anti-aging, sun protection, and strengthening your strands. Here are a few hair products with the power of AHAs.
Products with AHA
With hair that craves moisture, loves oils, and gravitates to the sun, it takes slightly different care to achieve certain styles. That includes sew-ins, braids, and twists. Not so long ago curly girls had to straighten their hair for those types of styles, and Wormaby with 4a coils from Curly Q&A is inquiring whether a sew-in requires straightening her curls.
Question
I want to get a sew-in but do I have to flat iron my hair to get one. I don’t want my hair flat ironed.
Answer
No, you do not need to flat iron your hair for a sew-in. There are a few ways to prep your hair for a sew-in if the styler would prefer your hair to be straight or stretched without using a flat iron.
Stretch your hair
It seems odd that rolling or curling your hair will straighten it, but it can work. Curlformers or large rollers are both great options to stretch the hair while it dries, whether air-drying or under a hooded dryer. Once the hair is dry you can wrap for straighter results so it will be in optimal condition for a sew-in, braids, or any style necessary for adding extensions.
Before you install…
Here are some tips for any time you decide to install a sew-in, braids, or any added hairstyle.
Curly hair is fragile
This does not mean you cannot straighten it or should not use sew-ins.; it just means we need extra TLC. Always use a heat protectant and make sure your added hair is not installed too tightly. These are just a few rules to follow but it also helps to know what options you have when constructing certain styles. Ensuring your hair detangled and stretched makes it is easier to work by reducing the potential for friction and breakage.
See if a trim is necessary
It is always good to make sure your hair is in peak condition, so getting a trim to rid your hair of raggedy or split ends prior to a sew-in is a good idea.
Properly cleanse and condition the hair
That means using a deep conditioner too. You want your hair in the best possible shape prior to installing a weave of any kind.
Stretching your hair may be ideal for the one installing your sew-in, but straightened hair from a flat-iron is not a requirement. First, see if your hairstylist needs your hair to be stretched. If so, then try one of the methods mentioned above and make sure to have your hair in prime shape by being clean, conditioned, detangled, and moisturized and without split ends.
What makes hair texture change?
Hair changes throughout our lives. In fact, our hair changes from every 5 to 7 years, according to Christo of the Christo Fifth Avenue Salon and creator of the Curlisto line of hair products. As we grow and our bodies change, we can also see a change in our hair texture. Why this happens is still a mystery to science but we do know hormones are somehow related to this phenomenon. This is why a toddler can be seen with adorable ringlets and end up with straight hair when puberty hits. Other attributes for hair texture changes are diet, hormones, illnesses, and medication.
Hair changes occurring from chemicals are altogether different, and that can be chemicals from straightening treatments to permanent color, but chemicals can cause change more than the texture like hair loss, thinning, or damage to the scalp. So, does a haircut get added to the list of why hair texture can change?
Can simply getting a haircut change one’s hair texture?
The short answer is no, but for an explanation on what some Type 2 wavies may be experiencing I enlisted the help of American Board Certified Haircolorist and hairstylist Monaé Everett.
Monaé states: “While a haircut cannot change your hair texture it certainly can help make your curl pattern more apparent. If you have a looser curl pattern (2-3a“> and a very short or tapered style, the strand may be snipped before the strand begins to loop into a curl. This can make the curl appear looser. On the contrary, the weight of a long hair cut stretch curls and make them appear looser. A proper haircut can reduce the unwanted bulk (volume/poof”> of curly hair as well. Those with medium to coily hair textures will notice a tighter curl appearance with shorter haircuts (from 2-12 inches in length”>.”
It is all about perception when it comes to a haircut and our curls. While stress, medications, chemicals or hormones may alter your curls, a haircut will not. If you cut at a peculiar spot, one’s curls may appear to change but it is a temporary issue that will return to normal once the hair has grown back. Whether it’s the weight of one’s hair or the reduction in volume from the shears, cutting your hair changes the shape, size, and bulk but it does not change the texture.
Read more: 10 Natural Hair Extensions that Will Make You Think It’s All Yours
If you are not hair savvy or used to rocking extensions, then blending it can be challenging. Blending is simply making the extensions mesh naturally with your own texture. For that reason we wanted to enlist the help of an expert at natural hair extensions, Kimali, also known as the woman behind Xotica Hair.
Know your texture
Kimali has plenty of tips on blending your hair with natural hair extensions, but “none is more important than knowing your hair texture so that you can select an extension that best matches your own. You would be surprised how often there is confusion around this. Finding the right texture will make the blending process easier.”
Twist your leave out
Kimali recommends twisting or intertwining your leave out with the hair extension as a great way to help the hair blend seamlessly “especially if you’re wearing a kinkier texture; make sure the ends of your short hair is not sticking out from the extension which could be an easy giveaway to others that you’re wearing extensions; using a bit of hair gel like EcoStyler gel would be quite useful in the intertwining process to smooth those ends down.”
Or try a two strand twist
Another tip or option for blending shorter hair with longer natural kinky extensions would be to two strand twist your own hair with the extension during the installation. Kimali says “This tip/method will allow your own hair and the extension to take the same pattern at takedown (when you untwist/unravel them”>. Flat twisting your leave out, doing Bantu knots, as well as curling your leave out with perm rods can also be an option to create kinks and curls that match the natural hair extension and help to blend.”
If all else fails
If all else fails Kimali recommends using “a pretty silk or satin scarf to tie around the front of your hair which will serve to camouflage your leave out as well as it will work as a beautiful, stylish hair accessory or go with a matching closure (that matches the extensions”>, then you will never have to worry about blending.”
Blending is right up there with installation as one of the more difficult maintenance issues with extensions. It may even be a valid reason why some opt for wigs, full closure sew-ins, or not wear them at all but as demand keeps running high, the brands are finding easier ways for women to rock them with little to no effort. I wore clip-ins on Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve and it was fairly simply to hide my hair. I avoided the problem of blending for fear of it looking bad but now see how a few steps can make all the difference in the world.
Natural hair extensions are great for versatility in styling and even coloring, as human hair extensions can be dyed, and now with blending tips I think we will continue to see them make even bigger waves in the natural hair community.
Do you have natural hair extension questions or problems that we can address?
Question
I only ever use one product on my hair, is this a good or bad thing?
Aside from using conditioner on my hair as a co wash and hardly deep conditioning my hair, I only use one product which is a moisturizer that leaves my hair completely soft and moisturized!! The moisturizer I use is called Sofn’ Free Curl Moisturizer with Vitamin E and Panthenol 2-in-1 Activator, this product has been helping my hair grow – before I had found this product no matter the regimen I had my hair would always feel very dry by the end of the day. I would love to know if this is a good or bad thing to only use a moisturizer with no leave in conditioner. I also sometimes apply JBCO after my moisturizer. The ingredients of the product are also listed below – please let me know if any of the ingredients is harmful to my hair.
Answer
Never feel you have to be using everything mentioned or recommended as we all have unique hair. Not every regimen or product is necessary or even a good fit for each and every curly girl, so if you are making it work with a conditioner (as a co-wash and conditioner”> and a moisturizer as your leave-in, then you are a minimalist at heart.
You are in good hands by using an activator for a moisturizer because they are superb moisturizers, detanglers, and even curl enhancers. Humectants are the reason activators are superior at moisturizing, and quite often that humectant ingredient is glycerin.
Read more: 10 Curl Activators that Won’t Dry You Out
Here are the first 6 ingredients in the Sofn’ Free curl moisturizer with Vitamin E and Panthenol 2-in-1 Activator:
- Water: hydrating
- Glycerin: humectant
- Propylene glycol: effective moisturizer
- Behentrimonium methosulfate: mild hair detangler
- Cetearyl alcohol: fatty alcohol
- PPG-10 cetyl ether: emollient
You cannot go wrong with a top ingredient list like this one where moisturizing is its #1 purpose. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone are equally popular and liked silicones that also aid in detangling so the consensus is this product is great for giving you what your hair needs. If no other product is needed for fighting frizz (if that is what you want”> or styling then you are not in need of anything. I do suggest a few things:
Do not use your regular conditioner as a deep conditioner
They have different ingredients because they have different purposes and you will not be getting the proper effects of a deep conditioner in that way.
Read more: Daily Conditioner vs. Deep Conditioner
Enlist in a deep conditioner
Deep conditioners have ingredients that can penetrate the hair shaft unlike traditional daily conditioners. Try to use at least monthly to make sure you are protecting all layers of the hair strand from damage.
Read more: Top 20 Deep Conditioners
Check for dryness in the future as you may need a protein treatment
If you ever see a difference in your hair, then a protein treatment might help. Maintaining a good moisture-protein balance is essential to healthy hair. You have a great regimen that may occasionally need some of these other products mentioned, but if it is working then by all means do it and do not worry about anything else.
Read more: The Must-See Guide to the Best Protein Treatment for Your Hair
[prodmod]
Question
Lost some curl when I moved from the Midwest to Arizona. Any suggestions to get my curl back?
I do color my hair, but I have for years. When I lived in Kansas I had the best curls, I’m sure the humidity helped, but now since I live in Phoenix my curls are kinda limp! I have tried five or six different curl products. Since I have a nail license I can buy from the distributors. Would love to hear any suggestions….thank you in advance!
Answer
Climate is a factor in how your curls behave. Many are unaware until they move or visit a place different from their residence but where you live plays a huge part in how your hair looks, feels, and is willing to cooperate. Humidity and dew points are not the only environmental factors that affect our hair. Pollutants, sun, and wind all affect our hair and moving to another climate means learning or protecting your hair from those elements. Since humidity is a major concern let’s find out exactly what it is.
What is humidity?
The simplified definition would be the amount of water vapor in the air but this is not entirely true. According to Jeffrey Hovis, a science, and operations officer with the National Ocean and Atmospheric Administration’s National Weather Service in Charleston, WV: “The air that we breathe is made up of numerous gases, including water vapor. The term humidity generally refers to the amount of this water vapor in the atmosphere.” Relative humidity, a term often used by weather persons, is the measurement of the actual amount of moisture in the air in comparison to the total amount the hair can actually hold.
As I stated before, humidity it not the only environmental factor one has to deal with. The amount of water vapor in the hair does affect our curls. The water in the atmosphere attaches to the hair strands, absorbs, and causes your strands to swell, causing frizzy and mushy hair. However, living in a dry climate such as Phoenix and you have a whole host of problems the drier climate inflicts on your curls. Hey, I know the struggle as I have been living in Denver for over ten years. The dry air not only affects your hair but your skin takes a beating as well. Here are some tips for living in a drier climate for curly, wavy, and coily girls.
Read more: Humidity, Humectants and the Dew Point
Steer clear of drying shampoos
Shampoos with harsh sulfates are doing your dry curls no favors! Try gentle sulfate-free shampoos, cleansing conditioners, clay washes, or diluting your shampoo, to help keep those strands moisturized and less dry.
Shampoo less
No one really needs to shampoo daily anyway and that goes double for curly girls. When living in a drier climate excessive shampooing may be stripping your strands of those precious natural oils you desperately need. Harsh shampoos will dry out those strands so maybe alternate with a co-wash. Messy buns or ponytail styles are great for dirty hair days.
Pre-poo
A pre-poo is a great way to add moisture to your hair prior and de-stress the effects of the shampooing. Even if you choose to not do it every wash, make sure to do it prior to washing with a sulfate shampoo to help stave off the dryness.
Try some oil-based products
Make sure your conditioners have natural oils in them or just add your favorite one to your conditioning process. I always add jojoba oil or SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Finishing Elixir to my deep conditioner and my leave-in conditioner to help seal in moisture.
Condition, condition, and then condition some more
Never skip conditioning your hair and make sure to deep condition after every wash. Conditioners work with shampoos and a regular conditioner will condition the cuticle, help it to lie flat, and be smooth. A deep conditioner will penetrate the hair shaft and nourish the cuticle with the oils, amino acids, and nutrients.
Read more: Daily Conditioner vs. Deep Conditioner
Sun protection
Protecting your hair from the intense UV rays, which will degrade your hair color and cause dry, brittle strands. That can also be giving your hair that limp, dry, and brittle feeling.
Read more: Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Invest in a humidifier
Great for skin and hair when living in a drier climate, humidifiers provide external moisture when it is in short supply in the air. Just like a steamer (also a great choice”>, they provide excellent moisture to the air, which is great for winter months when most of us are cranking our heaters up. That may not be helpful for Phoenix weather but the humidifier will combat the dryness that your skin and hair may be feeling.
[prodmod]
What is the hair cuticle?
The hair cuticle is the translucent outer layer of the hair shaft that has scales (similar to roof shingles”> that covers the cortex. The cuticle is made of an extremely hard protein called keratin. It has great significance in the look, feel, and overall health of your hair, as it is responsible for allowing moisture to pass into the hair shaft and whether or not it stays there.
Why does the cuticle matter?
The cells in the cuticle work defensively to prevent damage to the cortex and medulla. When over-manipulation, chemical and heat applications, styling tools are used in excess, the cuticle can become chipped away or damaged, which weakens the integrity of the hair. The cuticle matters because it is your hair’s natural line of defense to protect itself. The pH scale goes from 1-14 with the perfect pH at 5.5 to 6.5. The higher the pH of a product, the wider the hair cuticles will be raised.
Does steam open the cuticle?
Moisture from the steam causes the hair shaft to swell and slightly lift the cuticle but not as much as something like an alkaline product like color or a relaxer. Those types of products raise or open the cuticle much easier than steam or wider than steam and ultimately can cause damage to the strand. Using steam therapy helps curly girls with low porosity to capture the moisture and some ingredients in deep conditioners to adsorb to the cuticle.
Does cold water close the cuticle?
Hot, warm, or steamed water may swell and slightly raise the cuticle but cold water will not close it. That’s the job of the conditioner to help smooth or close the cuticle.
Does ACV and tea rinses actually add shine?
ACV is hailed as a great tool for adding shine to your hair and many curly girls swear by it. I use tea rinses (black tea”> pretty regularly for strengthening and combatting shedding. The caffeine in tea (and coffee”> can stimulate hair growth for those suffering from hair loss that is repairable, according to The Natural Haven.
Read more: Caffeine for Hair Growth: Is it Better in Coffee or Shampoo?
Can your hair have too much protein?
Yes! Protein overload can cause hair to become brittle and dry because just like most anything with life, you can get too much of a good thing. Some think that overloading with protein will just make the hair stronger but all it does it throw off the protein-moisture balance, and that makes hair more prone to breakage, damage, and even frizz. Most of us do not need protein weekly or even monthly especially if you are not using permanent color, relaxers, or heat applications. I get away with using a protein treatment every couple of months but using it weekly or even bimonthly may be too much and lower the moisture in your hair making it brittle and dry. Check your products if you feel you may be suffering from protein overload as protein can be in the form of hydrolyzed wheat, silk, vegetable, collagen, or even animal.
Can you use anything with proteins?
For proteins to temporarily fill in the gaps along the cuticle they must be small enough. Coconut milk, eggs, and mayonnaise do contain proteins, but they are too large to be fill in the chipped or damaged cuticle. You’ll want to either use Greek yogurt or search for products with hydrolyzed proteins to ensure the proteins are small enough to attach.
Read more: Why Mayonnaise and Eggs Don’t Work
What can penetrate the cuticle? What can’t penetrate the cuticle?
Coconut oil, olive oil, and avocado oils are three oils that penetrate the hair shaft, helping to retain moisture. Coconut oil is great to apply before washing your hair, as it helps to prevent hygral fatigue.
What is sebum?
Sebum is produced from the sebaceous glands and can be found anywhere on our body except the palms of our hands and the soles of our feet. Sebum is a lipid that contains squalene and does not dissolve in water. This fat-soluble compound is like cholesterols; it is secreted through the skin and is important in the skin surface lipid film that protects the body from external environments. The main purpose of sebum is to protect the hair and scalp from drying out.
How is sebum created?
Sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands found in the skin and mucus membranes. The gland cells last only around a week from formation to discharge. Sebum is a complex cocktail of lipids including glycerides, free fatty acids, cholesterol esters, cholesterol, squalene, and wax esters. Sebum does not come from the fats and oils consumed in our diets but instead from a specialized natural process.
Why do we need sebum?
Sebum is essential for the integrity and normal function of the skin as a protective organ. It is secreted to the outer skin from the sebaceous glands to maintain moisture of the skin, scalp, and hair. It is also necessary in keeping bacterial infections from getting in by creating a barrier on the skin to block them from entering our bodies. Sebum also smooths the overlapping cells of hair strands which aid in making them softer and more elastic.
Can a body produce too much sebum?
An overproduction of sebum (where the skin and hair feels extremely oil, greasy and lifeless”>, is usually associated with a change in the hormonal levels in the body. It causes the scalp to feel extremely greasy. Another culprit could be excessively drying the scalp, which causes the hair follicles to produce more sebum to counter the dryness. Sebum production is under the control androgens and the pituitary gland which is located in the brain.
Does sebum cause acne?
Sebum does not cause acne although the over-production of sebum can exacerbate the proliferation of acne. Other popular misconceptions are that makeup causes the over-production of sebum either and a greasy diet causes excessive production of sebum. Don’t believe these myths.
Does excessive shampooing increase sebum?
It can according to Michelle Hanjani, a dermatologist at Columbia University. She told NPR that when you are washing your hair you are removing sebum and if you do that daily (or too often”> then the oil glands compensate by producing more oil (or sebum”>. While she suggest persons with straight hair can hold off for a couple of times a week, she did go on to say that African Americans and others with curly hair can go even longer between washes.
It seems we came a long way to get to the answer but it makes sense when you finally understand what sebum is, where it comes from, how it is produced, and why excessive shampooing does in fact negatively affect the production of it. Sebum keeps our skin moisturized (scalp included”> and when the skin is too dry it will jump into production mode. So, wash when necessary, maybe even try the CG method and know that sebum is a necessary component of healthy hair care and not a dirty, oily word.
One problem lots of curly girls face when embracing their curly hair is dealing with bangs. Bangs will always be popular but for curly girls they can be problematic to maintain, as they stick up, frizz up, or shrink up causing bad hair day mania. This is what anduran13 from Curly Q&A was facing as she inquired about what to do with her bangs now that she’s embracing her natural curls.
Question
How do I get my bangs to curl like the rest of my hair after years of straightening them? Hello everyone, I have type 3B hair (I think??”> and was never taught to embrace it. From age 4, my mom cut bangs into my hair and straightened them every day, I continued this pattern throughout my teenage years. I am now a senior in high school who still continuously straightens her bangs with a straightener. However, I just want to rock all my hair naturally and fully embrace it. I have tried this process but my bangs just won’t curl like the rest of my hair… they are more wavy than curly and it just looks extremely off. Any suggestions for getting my bangs back to their natural state? Thank you very much.
Answer
The problem you may be facing is heat damage to your bangs. “Heat damage occurs when the protein bonds in the hair have been permanently altered to the point that the hair does not return to its natural curl pattern and your hair struggles to retain moisture as it once did.” Using heat tools daily or even weekly can increase one’s chances for heat damage. Although heat damage is irreversible, those heat damaged strands can be masked until they grow out and you can gradually snip them away over time.
Fake it until you make it
The easiest way to handle heat damaged bangs is to give them the same texture as the other strands. You can achieve this with pin curls, a twist out, braid out, perm rods, or Bantu knots out. All of these techniques will give the bangs a curlier texture and blend in better with the rest of your hair.
Prevent further damage
Try to not exacerbate the problem by straightening or heat styling them or the rest of your hair anytime soon. If you feel strongly that you want to use heat tools, make sure you do so as safely as possible. It’s impossible to prevent heat damage entirely, but you can minimize the damage with a few easy steps. Shampoo and deep condition before using heat to thoroughly remove buildup and impart moisture. When you are ready to return to your curls, be sure to give your curls a deep conditioning treatment. Incorporate monthly deep treatments into your routine to help strengthen your hair, such as Duosity’s Double Whipped Repairing Treatment or ApHogee’s 2 Minute Reconstructor. If you only use heat on your bangs, you can focus your treatments on that section of your hair.Start a healthy hair regimen
You cannot fix hair that has already been heat damaged but you can instill a healthy regimen that will help strengthen your strands and keep them looking great. Proper cleansing, conditioning, and regular protein treatments will get your hair in better shape and be more receptive to the styles you are trying to achieve.
Embrace bobby pins
As this heat damaged hair is growing out, you may need to resort to the bang-grow-out’s best friend: bobby pins. They can disguise your hair and keep them out of your face until the heat damaged hair has grown out and your natural curls have grown in! It can vary greatly, but the average speed of hair growth is about half an inch per month so you should be heat damage free within a few months.
Get regular trims
By getting regular trims you will be able to slowly snip away the heat damaged hair giving way to your healthy curls as they grow in. It will take time but trims are necessary as the heat damaged hair cannot be fixed. Trims also keep split ends at bay and give hair a healthier look.
[prodmod]
Question
What’s the best and least painful way and product to detangle my wet matted hair?
Answer
There are pros and cons to both wet and dry detangling. There is an optimal way (being less painful and less damaging”> to wet detangle your curls so let’s share how to do it.
First off, detangling is getting rid of shed hairs, knots, and tangles. It is done mostly prior to or during wash day but one can detangle whenever they see fit. I detangle in the shower right before I wash my hair, but when I rewet my hair and add conditioner (usually during the middle of the week”> I will do light detangling just to remove the shed hairs and not allow my hair to knot up too terribly. Yes, I am a wet detangler and see more benefit it doing it this way as the water aids in my detangling.
The object in wet detangling is enlisting the help of water, conditioner, and oils to remove the shed hair, knots, and tangles. Here are some tips on decreasing the time, damage, and pain factor in your wet detangling:
Completely saturate the hair
Let water aid in releasing shed hairs and stubborn knots. I never begin detangling until my hair is fully saturated. Even though hair is more fragile when wet, it is more flexible and easier to comb than with dry hair. You can also consider damp detangling so that your hair is stronger than being in a fully wet state.
Use tons of conditioner (usually a cheap one”>
The hair is in a weaker state when wet so slather on either a super cheap conditioner or detangler. These products use ingredients like silicones and marshmallow root to provide massive slip for releasing knots and tangles. Adding a few drops of your favorite oil will also help with detangling less painfully.
Less comb, more fingers
Try using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb to release knots. Never use a small tooth comb. Finger detangling allows you to feel for the knots and tangles better. Finger detangling leaves for less manipulation of the strands and less breakage than using a comb.
Work in sections
It is always a good idea to work in small sections when detangling your curls, coils, and waves. This ensures all hairs are fully detangled and you do not become overwhelmed trying to detangle a full head at once.
Favorite detanglers
Here are some top-notch favorite detanglers that curly girls rave about. These detanglers will help in lessening the time and pain with wet detangling.
- Kinky-Curly Knot Today
- “Don’t Be So Clingy” – Hair Detangler
- Tresemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture Conditioner
- SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler
- Curly Hair Solutions SLIP Detangler
Read more: Should You Detangle Wet or Dry?…It Depends
[prodmod]
Whether the texture, type, or temperament, having a nighttime routine for your tresses is essential and can make or break your hair, style, or regimen if not implemented. Sorry, you must prepare your hair and even if you are dead set against nightly routines, even the simplest of things can make for healthier hair and a healthier hair relationship. We also need to be reminded that the length of your hair does not determine if you need a nighttime routine but rather what type of nighttime routine you need to incorporate. Taking out the necessary time to ensure your style will be preserved or to keep your hair from being dry is what you do the night before and even though many (or most”> naturals are aware of this sometimes we need to be reminded.
That’s right my shorter-haired naturals. Just flopping down on the satin pillowcase is usually not enough to preserve a style or to keep your hydration up.
Twists
Naptural Elenore shows how to not only achieve second or third day hair, but to also how to keep your hair from being a frizz ball. Her main component in this nightly routine is Eden BodyWorks All Natural Curl Defining Crème. It’s not always about keeping curl definition, but also keeping your hair moisturized and smooth. This nighttime routine and her product of choice are great for a TWA or tresses longer than hers.
Short Wash & Go
For the wash and go natural who is so low maintenance and doesn’t cowash often, this style and nighttime routine will be perfect for you. Yes, there are many naturals who wash and go, but do not co-wash daily. AuCurls Naturelle has a quick and easy nighttime routine that yields amazing curl definition and moisture. She uses Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner for her leave-in conditioner and doesn’t use a lot of products since she doesn’t co-wash often.
Stretch Afro
Yes, you need a nightly routine for a fro so don’t get it twisted naturals! AuCurls Naturelle is back to show us how she keeps her beautiful tresses fro’d out and moisturized with her banded method nightly routine. This is also how she stretches her hair without heat.
Chunky Twists
Clarissa shares her own nighttime routine in between her washes. She thoroughly explains what she uses including a DIY leave-in and all her accessories. Just as many naturals, she is able to retwist nightly to refresh, moisturize, and sustain her curl definition. She doesn’t moisturize every night but she will rewist or braid nightly.
How do you preserve your hair at night?
[prodmod]This article was originally published in 2014 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.
Question
Can you still free form (locs”> if you started sponging your hair first?
Answer
You most certainly can, but first let’s explain exactly what each type is. Free form locs, also known as organic locs, are created by allowing the hair to form naturally with no regular styling maintenance. Hands-off approach allows the locks to marry as they see fit.
Sponging is using a dread sponge or a curl sponge, which has large holes that miraculously gather or clump hair into small sections in a mere fraction of the time compared to installing by hand.
5-Minute Quick Sponge Coils
For more information about growing locs, I enlisted the help from a professional loctician so I contacted FlyGuy Locs, who specializes in loc maintenance, barbering and Natural hair, for some help.
“Well, the sponge curls or (shingling”> is a great natural style. There are people that have started from this method but I don’t recommend it if you have a decent stylist that knows what they’re doing. When you’re starting locs, you want a strong foundation, so that when your locs mature they will be strong at the roots as well as the shaft and down the loc itself. With doing curls some may be small medium (or”> large. No real definite structure. Free forming locs on the other hand are just locs married together with no particular structure.”
“Most get it misconstrued that you don’t need any upkeep with free forming but just as much goes into them as it does with traditional locs. There’s maintenance for every method of locking hair. The number one thing I hit home with on every client is structure. If there is not a strong foundation for any style or method of locs the long term won’t be long at all. Just like trees need a strong foundation so do your roots.”
“The sponge curls are just a natural style. You can start them (i.e. locs”> that way, but I don’t recommend it. I’m not against either method at all, but my focus is on health and longevity. Even with free forming, most have started from some sort of structure…Most don’t decide to free form until their locs are mature, but I have seen a few start from free form. Usually at the level of maturity, you can pretty much do whatever you’d like with your locs and or even let them develop by themselves into their own sense of style or character.”
Takeaway
Loc styles can be changed and one can go from using the sponging to free form at any stage, even though most start organic locs once the former locs have matured. You can seek a professional, as it is most essential if you want your hair to come out exactly how you envisioned or just do it yourself by leaving them be. Remember that with all loc styles, FlyGuy Locs suggests starting with a solid foundation to ensure they are strong and healthy.
Follow FlyGuy Locs here:
Question
What’s the difference between a mask and a pre-poo? Is it ok to use a mask and a pre-poo in one wash?
Answer
Pre-Poo
A pre-poo, which is short for pre-shampoo treatment, is quite similar to the traditional hot oil treatment many of our mother’s used for deep conditioning treatments that were applied prior to washing the hair. You can also cocktail or substitute the oil for a daily conditioner. They both hydrate the hair while combatting the dryness of the impending shampoo and in detangling prior to shampooing. A pre-poo can be a pure oil, blended oil, a conditioner, or even a conditioner plus oil cocktail.
Hair mask
A hair mask or masque is a heavier-duty conditioner that restores moisture to the hair and closes the hair’s cuticle after using shampoo. Based on the manufacture’s directions, it is usually left on for 15-20 min. The ingredients in hair masks tend to be oils, butters, and even silicones that are ultra-conditioning and much thicker than deep conditioners. Because of this, curlies usually incorporate them in their regimen between weekly and monthly. Depending on the treatment, some are formulated with more hydrolyzed protein and ceramides for strengthening properties, while others focus on humectant, emollients, and oils for moisture retention.
Some people apply conditioner before shampoo and this is called the reverse shampoo method. The difference between pre-poo and the reverse shampoo method is intention. Those who pre-poo are trying to either prevent hygral fatigue or lessen the drying effects of shampoo; there is no intent of eliminating the deep conditioning step after cleansing. With the reverse shampoo method, the cleansing is not followed up with a conditioner.Read more: Reverse Shampoo – Conditioner Before Shampoo
It seems the biggest distinguishing factors between the two are when they are applied to your tresses and what they are used for. As I mentioned before, a pre-poo is for fighting dryness that one may incur from the upcoming shampoo or it can be just an aid on detangling the hair if it is pretty tangled. The hair mask or masque is more so to strengthen the hair and try to correct any imbalances within the hair just like a facial mask. What they have in common is that both can be DIY concoctions and they can be used during the same wash cycle as they do different things especially if using a hair mask that has protein in it. It may seem like extra work to use both but depending on your hair’s wash day needs, it may be necessary from time to time and if using a hair mask that only needs to be rinsed out may also determine if you want to do both.
Here is a simple DIY pre-poo and hair mask that will work wonders on your curls along with some product recommendations.
Super Simple Avocado Pre-Poo
- 1 small ripe avocado
- 1 Tbsp. your favorite carrier oil
- 1 rice strainer
Mash up avocado, add oil, mix well, and sift with a rice strainer to remove the lumps. This pre-poo is even better warmed up. Apply to hair and allow to sit for at least 30 min. before rinsing and washing hair as usual.
Honey + Olive Oil + Yogurt Hair Mask
- 1 Tbsp. honey
- 1 Tsp. olive oil
- 1/4 cup yogurt
Mix ingredients well before applying to damp hair. Let sit for 15 to 20 min. before rinsing, washing, and styling as usual.
Product recommendations
- Carol’s Daughter Monoi Repairing Hair Mask
- Hydrating Argan Oil Hair Mask and Deep Conditioner By Arvazallia for Dry or Damaged Hair
- SheaMoisture African Black Soap Dandruff Control Pre-Poo Rinse
- Burt’s Bees Avocado Butter Pre-Shampoo Hair Treatment with Nettles and Rosemary
Follow Natasha (pictured above”> here:
Stylish Lee and Instagram
The cape chestnut tree does quite well in deep fertile, well-composed soil that is exposed to plenty of moisture. With oil glands present on the leaves, there is a strong scent especially when crushed. The flowers aid in giving this tree its magnificent beauty with pink and mauve flowers that often cover the entire canopy of the tree. The fruits of the cape chestnut open when completely ripe and are round, wary capsules that split into five sections to release ten black, angular seeds. The leaves may have the lemony-pine scent, but the seeds are the bearers of the yangu oil.
Benefits of Yangu oil
Yangu oil is extracted from the seeds by cold pressing. This remarkable and very stable oil is high in essential fatty acids and antioxidants. Its most prized component is how well it provides inherent protestation against ultraviolet radiation. The most common uses of yangu oil are for soaps, face creams, lotions, hair conditioners, sun care products, massage oils, and balms. It is a non-drying, non-toxic oil that is used by local women of Africa to protect the skin, scalp, and hair from UV rays. The oil has a bland aroma (quite different from the leaves”> with a clear to pale yellow color. Because of its non-toxic and non-drying nature, it is quite often used in facial soaps and shampoos, and when added to cleansing agents it has the ability to add softness and even lessen the drying effects of most soaps.
Read more: 4 Acids that are Great for Your Hair
Yangu oil has an impressive essential fatty acid content including palmitic acid, stearic acid, and oleic acid, all bringing this oil to the table with big boys of natural oils for hair. It is an emollient with antioxidants that are great for your skin and scalp, especially for those with psoriasis, eczema, scaling, and other scalp conditions. With its non-drying nature, this oil is ideal for combatting the drying effects of shampoos by simply adding a few drops to your shampoo application. There is a buzz surrounding this beautiful oil in how well it works and may even replace the ever-beloved coconut oil for preventing hair and moisture loss.
This oil is a great option for hot oil massages and pre-poos. It is perfect for preventing dandruff, scalp flaking, and restoring your hair and scalp’s natural moisture. Yangu oil is being used in spas for skin and hair treatments from massages to hair applications. The added bonus of having sunscreen capabilities makes this oil a keeper for all seasons and extra special for the cooler months to fight off dry scalp and hair.
Read more: Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Products with Yangu oil
Benefits of watermelon seed oil
Even though we often discard the seeds, they are full of nutrients, proteins, fatty acids, minerals, and vitamins. Watermelon seed oil is often called ootanga oil or kalahari oil. It can be extracted a few different ways: the expeller method, cold pressing, solvent extraction, or oil clarification. Traditionally the seeds are removed from the rind and dry outside in the sun before being extracted.
There are phenolic compounds in watermelon which includes carotenoids, flavonoids, and triterpenoids. This fruit is full of anti-inflammatory and antioxidants, but the star nutrient is lycopene. It possesses more than 60% linoleic acid and has omegas 3, 6, and 9, which are great for cardiovascular and immune health while also aiding our nervous system. Watermelon seed oil has palmitic, oleic acid, steric acid, B-Vitamins, copper, manganese, magnesium, and zinc.
Read more: Oleic or Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much
Watermelon seed oil for hair
With that amazing composition, it is no wonder that this oil is just that…a wonder! Watermelon seed oil is great as an emollient for moisturizing your strands and scalp. This ultra-light oil does not clog pores, so no dirt can accumulate on the scalp. It is also extremely moisturizing without being overly greasy. The abundance of antioxidants boosts scalp circulation and in turn helps with hair fall. The essential fatty acids help to moisturize the hair and scalp while preventing hair breakage. The copper helps the production of melanin and is responsible for keeping hair color intact and the potassium is an important component of cell growth, which aids in hair optimal hair growth.
Watermelon seed oil is has water-soluble properties that make it great for skin and scalp absorption. It also helps with skin and hair elasticity. It also dissolves sebum buildup and an all-around great oil for scalp, skin, and hair. It can be used alone for hot oil massages and pre-poos or as a blended hair oil for hair masks or treatments.
Fruit & veggie hair oil
- 1 oz. watermelon seed oil
- 1/4 oz. jojoba oil
- 1/2 oz. broccoli seed oil
- 1/4 oz. blueberry seed oil
- 25 drops carrot root extract
Measure all ingredients into a small bowl and mix well. This makes around 2 oz. of a potent hair mix that can be warmed and used as a hot oil massage, pre-poo, hot oil treatment, oil rinse, or sealing.
Many naturals are fearful of heat damage despite wanting the straighter look, and just like Borney_Ly from Curly Q&A wanted to know, many naturals are curious on what they can do to ensure their fabulous blow out does not create problems for them down the road.
Question
What do you after you have natural blow out to prevent hair damage?
Answer
The most important part of staving off heat damage occurs before you even do your blow out. Sure, some will always covet straight hair, but rocking the big full hair of a blow out allows you to have straight hair with volume. Just like any style that naturals try, a blow out can have the potential for damage from heat. While you can most definitely care for your hair after the blow out, to prevent heat damage from a blowout requires work done before you even do the blow out.
Here’s what you should do before the blowout.
1. Clarify
Creating a blow out on dirty hair can make the oil, dirt, or product buildup may yield a less than stellar results, as they last longer and look better on clean hair.
2. Deep condition
You want to start on healthy hair and deep conditioning is necessary to help hair stay manageable, stronger, less frizzy, and retain hair’s length. It should be done after every wash but definitely before a blow out, as you want it in the best possible condition before adding heat.
3. Use heat protectant
Always apply a heat protectant before using heat styling tools, and yes that includes a blow out. Just like you wouldn’t grab a hot pan out of the oven without oven mitts or pot holders, you should never place heat appliances to your naked hair without some sort of protection. Most heat protectants contain silicones (e.g. cyclomethicone and dimethicone”> and other essential ingredients to coat and protect the hair against heat applications. Heat protectants coat the hair shaft, lessening the damaging effects of direct heat and keeping the moisture sealed into your strands. Many naturals opt for natural heat protectants like grapeseed oil or olive oil, but they can be heavy and weigh the hair down. A better option may be the over-the-counter and just as Sister Scientist has stated “chemists will combine synthetic ingredients like silicones with the natural goodness of oils to provide an improved customer experience when using the product.”
Read more: This Buildup Actually Saves Your Hair and Why Oil Doesn’t Work as a Heat Protectant
4. Use the lowest setting of heat
You are not trying to fry your hair nor dry it out, so use the lowest setting possible and never use heat appliances that do not have a variety in heat settings.
So in a nutshell trying to prevent heat damage after your blow out is too late, as it needs to occur prior to even doing the blowout. You can make your style last or give protein treatments or deep conditioning after the blow out to care for your hair and keep it moisturized and strong.
Flat Iron and Blow Out on Natural Hair | How To Without Heat Damage
Question
Can your hair be half straight and half curly? I’m talking about naturally half and half! My sister is convinced this is possible but I don’t believe it.
Answer
Yes, you can, although there are other reasons why someone would have curly strands right next to, on top of, or below straight strands. It can be damage from chemicals like a Brazilian keratin treatment, heat styling, or bleaching. This phenomenon can also occur naturally, Ouidad’s former Artistic Director Ana told Glamour that is very normal for one head to have four different curl patterns ranging from loose waves to tight ringlets.
This happens due to genetics. Our DNA is to blame and research shows that the curvature of strands largely depends on the nature of the hair follicle. When the follicle is asymmetrical, the hair shaft grows oval in shape and tends to curl, but even a once curly hair follicle can change to a straight one. That’s right, hair can change its own texture and shape due to a myriad of reasons like medication, hormones, and the body’s chemistry.
How to manage your different textures
Do not fight your hair. Being rough with your hair, neglecting it, or opting for chemical treatments may only worsen the issue, even if you do not see the damage immediately. There are other ways to deal with naturally different textures, even if the differences seem extreme.
The right haircut
Get a cut to mask the difference or work with all of the textures. A professional stylist will know how to give you a cut that compliments all the textures. If you wear a wash and go regularly, let them see it shrunken, dry state to give you the best cut or style possible. Asymmetrical bobs, layering, or pixie cuts are just a few cutting options that will give your hair shape and allow your natural textures to rise to the occasion and look amazing. Allow a professional to work with your different textures to give you a style that may ease your worry about those differences until it is time for another cut.
Encourage the curl – without heat
You always have the option to make the straighter hairs curly or vice versa. If you want to steer clear of heat styling tools, then opt for flexi rods, pin curls, or twisting those straighter pieces to mirror your curlier strands. Scrunching is another technique that will help certain strands to curl. You can also do a roller set or the flexi rod set that will give all of your hair a uniform look too. When my sister had heat damage on one small section, she simply pinned it up when air-drying and when it was completely dry it fell right into place with all the other sections of her hair. Genius!
Different hair personalities makes for unique hair and for various styles to create. When you look at it in a negative way you will yield negative results or take drastic measures when only a few things like a new cut, scrunching, or stretching a few strands can give you what you want.
How do you style your multiple textures? Do you care about curl uniformity?
Is Greek yogurt great for hair?
Greek yogurt (or any yogurt for that matter”> is great for protein treatments that will help build up your hair’s damaged cuticle from chemical or heat applications. It will increase shine, add moisture, and make your hair softer. It is much better for your hair than mayonnaise, which actually does not work as a protein treatment because the proteins are too large to fit into the hair cuticle. Greek yogurt is the better choice for a DIY protein treatment because it can penetrate the hair shaft.
Greek yogurt is the better choice for a DIY protein treatment because it can penetrate the hair shaft.
I enlisted the help of scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., RPhT to explain the effects of greek yogurt on hair. According to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, “Hydrolyzed yogurt protein is the hydrolysate of yogurt protein derived by acid, enzyme, or other method of hydrolysis. Derived from essential yogurt proteins in a hydrolyzed form.
Hydrolyzed proteins enhance both the functional and nutritional properties of proteins. With a molecular weight ranging between 2 – 4 kDa (kilodaltons a measurement used for weight”>, this product was shown to increase skin hydration by 12% compared to a control. For percentage of protein in dietary yogurt: regular yogurt = 5g of protein/6oz and Greek yogurt = 10g of protein/6oz. We don’t eat hydrolyzed yogurt protein but it is found in many beauty products.”Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work
Does Greek yogurt from the store work?
There are some proteins in Greek yogurt we buy in the store that are small enough to penetrate the hair shaft. It brings down the pH level and strengthens the hair by way of it smaller proteins, amino acids, lactic acids, and unique lipids from the milk. Greek yogurt from the store is perfect to help rebuild the damaged cuticle and strengthen the hair.
All in all, this makes Greek yogurt a viable DIY ingredient for a protein treatment despite not being completely hydrolyzed protein that one would find in a commercial beauty product because some of the proteins along with the amino acids and lactic acids still nourish the hair and penetrate the hair shaft. Yogurt is even better when used with honey, and natural oils (like coconut or olive”> to create a powerfully moisturizing protein treatment or mask. Now you can toss your mayonnaise treatment in exchange for the new DIY protein provider that gets the job done.
DIY deep conditioner for curly hair
