Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

What is Cetyl Dimethicone? (And Is It Bad for Your Hair?)
What is Cetyl Dimethicone? (And Is It Bad for Your Hair?)
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by RoBeDeRo – Getty Images
Silicones are hated, loved, and truly misunderstood. Before a few years ago, I never even knew what a silicone was and now you cannot get on a curly hair site, blog, or magazine without reading about them. In the curly girl’s world, ingredients and terms are being dissected to the point of disintegration, and while it may be informative, it can become overwhelming if not understood. What makes a silicone good, bad, or ugly? It is time to find out and discuss one in particular namely: cetyl dimethicone.

Read: Silicones: Good, Bad, and the Ugly

What are silicones?

Silicones are a family of specialty, high performance materials that are used in thousands of products from sealants to textiles to personal care products. Silicones are substances composed of organic and inorganic polymers created by the application of a specific formula and “silicones are produced by reacting silicon—one of the earth’s most common elements- with methyl chloride and further reaction with water which removes the chlorine atom,” according to the American Chemistry Council.

Silicones and hair

The main objective of a silicone in a product is to seal in or insulate. They create a barrier around the hair strands and are excellent for usage in heat protectants, as they will protect the strands from the high temperatures from heat styling tools like curling wands, irons, blow-dryers, and flat irons. They even create amazing slip in hair products to help with detangling, as the coating it creates makes a slick or softer surface upon the strands.

There are definitely good silicones compared to bad ones and even some in-between when it comes hair care. Some are good or water-soluble and will not build up in the hair and can be washed out just with water. Some are in-between or slightly soluble and do not dissolve but evaporate from the hair and the rest are washed out by the use of shampoo and there is not as much build-up. The worst are the silicones that are non-soluble and may require a stronger shampoo (like s sulfate or clarifying shampoo”> to remove.

What is cetyl dimethicone?

This amber colored liquid is a silicone polymer that functions as a skin-conditioning agent or an emollient. It is intended to give slip or make an application easier while also forming a protective barrier on the skin (or hair”> that slows down water loss and leaves the surface soft and smooth. It is used in antiperspirants, lotions, hair products, makeup, and sunscreens, and generally considered to be safe.

Pros

If the objective is to stave off moisture or frizz, then cetyl dimethicone is an ideal ingredient. Since it coats the hair and can only be removed by sulfates it is an ideal ingredient in a heat protectant and it does create a softer surface upon the hair making it a good ingredient for slip.

Cons

Although considered safe when it comes to our hair, this silicone is considered one of the worst because cetyl dimethicone is a non-water soluble silicone that takes a lot to remove from the hair. They require the help of sulfate shampoos and conditioners to remove the silicone coating from the hair, and if a curly girl is resigned to not using sulfates or retaining moisture then the usage of these types of silicones are not ideal, especially if you co-wash only to cleanse your hair.

The takeaway

Cetyl dimethicone is a non-water soluble that requires sulfates to remove from the hair as it causes buildup. This silicone is also not a good idea for anyone who chooses to co-wash regularly but it is excellent for properly coating the hair especially for heat protectant products. Remember, that shampoo is needed for thorough removal.

This is What You Need to Know About "Indirect Heat"
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo Courtesy of Natalie Live
As many curly girls fear heat damage, some take extremes on eliminating the possibility of it from their strands. I was one such person a few years ago and ditched all my heat tools including my hooded dryer. In all fairness, I hated that thing with a passion and have been known to shorten my time under a hooded dryer while in a salon when no one was looking. Afroodisiac inquired about how to define hooded dryers in our Curly Q&A section because many are not quite sure.

Question

Does using a bonnet dryer qualify as using direct heat on hair? I’ve set myself up on an 8 month no heat/chemical challenge, which has kept me away from my coveted diffuser. I plan my wash schedule around the amount of time I think it will take my hair to fully dry so I can wear it out for a few days. One section of my hair takes longer to dry than the rest of it so I’ve resorted to using my Andis bonnet, that I usually use for deep conditioning, to dry my hair. Just to be clear I put it to use when my hair is about 90% dry. I do this in fear of it causing heat damage. So my question is when using a bonnet dryer is it considered direct heat? Or is it indirect since it’s more so an inflated heated space?

Answer

What is direct heat?

Direct heat is heat styling tools that directly touch or are in close proximity to the strands like a flat iron, hot comb, blow-dryer (without a diffuser attachment”>, curling iron, curling wand, and hot rollers. These tools have a greater chance of causing heat damage. Using these tools on low heat with a heat protectant decreases the potential for heat damage.

What is indirect heat?

Indirect heat is using tools to create a style or dry the hair without coming into direct contact with the heat, making your strands less vulnerable to heat damage. Excellent examples of indirect heat for hair would be the hooded dryers, the soft bonnet dryers, or hair steaming as they may be closer to your head but they still do not directly touch the hair strands. A lot of curly girls will use dryers for roller sets or deep conditioning but they are also great for using at the end of air drying your hair to ensure all strands are completely dry. Even though they are indirect sources of heat, you should still use the lowest setting possible to adequately dry the hair as it is still a heat source.

Which is better?

Indirect heat is better because it has a lower chance of causing heat damage and it is quite useful for deep conditioning and speeding up the drying time. Direct heat should be used sparingly and always with a heat protectant formulated with silicones, as they help create a barrier between your strands and the heat styling tool. Heat can be a positive part of curly hair maintenance as long as you use it wisely and know the differences of direct and indirect heat sources.

Read more: Heat Protectants: This Buildup Actually Saves Your Hair

Follow Natalie Live (pictured above”> here:

The Tiny Closet and Instagram 

3 Brands You Need to Try from the Health Food Store
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by IPGGutenbergUKLtd — Getty Images
Beauty companies are offering a wider “natural” products selection than ever before for the ingredient-savvy consumer. Despite the amazing array of brands and products that can be found just about anywhere, the love for the health food stores is still relevant. I may be able to run to my local beauty store for every hair care item I need, but I still love running into my Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods Market and finding a well-stocked beauty section for women. These stores offer products that take organic ingredients seriously while offering alternatives for individuals with specific allergy and sensitivity needs. They also offer hair care brands that may be hard to find in other stores but are just as loved by curly girls. Here are three we love. 

Desert Essence

Founded in 1978, Desert Essence was centered on a simple concept: “beauty is natural, and nature is beautiful.” Desert Essence can be found in Health Food Stores like Natural Grocers, Sprouts, and Whole Foods Markets aligning themselves with the natural and organic mindset of those successful chains. With the foundation of any and every product being the ingredients, Desert Essence believes in using only high quality natural ingredients for an all-over healthy beauty experience. They carry baby, bath & body, dental, hair care and skin care products and make sure to source their ingredients responsibly. None of their products contain artificial color or fragrances and are created to work in harmony with the body.

Aubrey Organics

Aubrey Organics was originally founded by Aubrey Hampton, an organic chemist in 1967. Like many organic skin care lines, they started out with a few products but have blossomed into a massive personal care company with over 200 products and distribution in over 4,500 retail outlets across the country. Despite their size, Aubrey Organics takes the artisanal approach with tiny batches of no more than 50 gallons. They are then shipped directly to local distributors with no warehousing, minimizing the time between production and application by the consumer. They maintain an unflinching commitment to all–natural ingredients which are certified organic and use no artificial ingredients or fragrances. Although not a hypoallergenic line, they do include labeling of allergens on their products; they also have a Vegecol collection, which contains no allergens. Freshness, authenticity, and natural are important to this line and the health food stores that carry them.

Nature’s Gate

Founded in 1972, Nature’s Gate was inspired by the eco-conscious consumer while being influenced by Mother Nature. Two brothers from Venice Beach, CA were determined to create a shampoo containing only the freshest and cleanest ingredients on earth. Inspired by natural rainwater, they used it as their primary ingredient before adding therapeutic herbs to create the Rainwater Herbal Shampoo. They now carry a vast array of holistic line of beauty products for babies, oral, body and hair care and pride themselves on honesty and integrity. Their products can be found in Sprouts, Vitamin Cottages, Whole Food Markets, and Natural Grocers around the country. This line is dedicated to bringing environmentally-friendly and cruelty-free botanical products containing all natural herbs and pH balanced formulas.

What brands do you love from your local health food store?

The Benefits of Prickly Pear for Hair
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by James Metcalf — Getty Images

Opuntia tuna may sound unfamiliar but prickly pear cactus (what it known as”> is the best-known and best-loved cactus around. With its luscious fruit that can be made into jellies, teas, candies, and wine, prickly pear cactus represents about a dozen species found in arid and semi-arid regions of the world. They have flat, fleshy pads that favor large leaves with sharp spines. Used by the American Indians to treat burns, it has a long history in traditional Mexican folk medicine for treating diabetes but has also be linked to treating lipid disorders, inflammations, and even ulcers.

Widely distributed, they can be found from California to Florida to Europe to the West Indies. This commercial crop in Latin America, North Africa, Mexico, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean countries are popular. You can often find the leaves or pad of the cactus (nopales”> in boiled or grilled vegetable dishes in Mexican cuisine.

Benefits of prickly pear

This plant is edible and a good source of important minerals like calcium, iron, manganese, magnesium, potassium, and phosphorus, along with antioxidants are plentiful in this superfood like ascorbic acid, carotenoids, and flavonoids. The prickly pear seed oil contains linoleic acid and zinc and is extracted either by cold-pressing the seeds or by chemical extraction.

Read more: Oleic and Linoleic Acid: The Reason You Love Oils So Much

Why is prickly pear seed oil great for our hair?

They are not calling this a superfood for nothing. This cactus oil is extremely high in essential fatty acids, Omega-6 and Omega-9 and with that natural antioxidant vitamin E which is excellent against fighting free radicals. Prickly pear has amino acids, which naturally stimulate collagen production to promote faster cell turnover. Collagen helps to not only keep skin firm and fresh, but also protects it from the sun, wind and environmental pollutants and that goes for your scalp and strands too. Amino acids also keep the skin, scalp and hair hydrated and promotes a healthy pH balance.

Read more: You Need These Fatty Acids for Healthy Hair

With double the fatty acids and proteins of argan oil, this oil will add high gloss and soften your strands. If there are deficiencies in one’s diet then the massive amounts of nutrients in this fruit are great supplements to help keep your body and hair healthy and in turn that may prevent hair loss. Several brands are harnessing the goodness of this plant by adding it to their conditioners and restorative oils. Here are a few below but always know that consuming these amazing fruits, plants, and nuts we mention is always the ideal way to benefit from them.

Products with prickly pear

Benefits of Tiger Nut Milk for Hair
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by bhofack2 — Getty Images
Touted as one of the world’s healthiest snacks, tiger nuts are making a comeback because they are high in iron, magnesium, potassium, vitamin C, and vitamin E. Tiger nuts are currently trending in the paleo and raw diet communities, and despite their name, they are not actually nuts at all. They are tubers or underground root-like bulbs of yellow nustedge. Tiger nuts are members of the sedge family and believed to be the most ancient foods found in Egypt. 

Tiger nuts are also called chufa nuts and have a nutty taste similar to coconuts. This milky, nutty tasting tuber is plentiful in Nigeria and can also be found in the Spanish drink horchata. This ancient super-food is extremely high in fiber, iron, potassium, and vitamins C and E. As a matter of fact, tiger nuts have as much iron as red meat, as much potassium as coconut water. They are allergen free, gluten free, dairy free, and chocked full of resistant starch, which is a type of fiber that is pre-biotic.

What is chufa (tiger nut”> milk?

This translucent liquid extracted from the tuber of Cyperus esculentus has no reported allergies, perfect for dairy-intolerant individuals and for nut or seed allergy sufferers. It is a creamy beverage with a sweet, toasty flavor that is perfect alone or added to coffee or tea. Many love them for smoothies too.

What are the benefits of chufa milk for hair?

Chufa milk consists of amino acids, flavonoids, minerals, sugars, and vitamins B, C and E, which come together and provide antioxidants and moisturizing properties to not only skin but also hair. Chufa milk’s primary benefits to hair are protection and moisture. With its solid source of magnesium, chufa milk helps women suffering from a magnesium deficiency, which can contribute to scalp hair loss. Chufa milk helps to fortify hair and protect it against UV rays while making it softer.

We are seeing more products on the market utilizing the benefits of chufa milk and not just because what it can do for hair but also because it is great for persons allergic to nuts or seeds. Here are a few products that are formulated with chufa milk.

Products with Tiger Nut Milk

Want to make your own Chufa or Tiger nut milk? Here’s a simple video show you how.

How to Make Tiger Nut Milk

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What Exactly is a Hair Primer? (And What’s It Used For?)
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo Courtesy of Christina Nwabugo
A primer for your hair makes me kind of giddy inside. Reason being, I use a primer for my makeup and it allows my makeup to be smoother, last longer, and even look better. When I began searching for information on hair primers I became perplexed. It seems to be a product often advertised for wavy and looser curl patterns, so let’s delve into what a primer is and what it can do for your hair.

What is a hair primer?

A hair primer or prep is just like a face, lash, or eye shadow primer. They actually prep your hair for heat styling, protecting it against environmental factors, dryness, and even damage. Some find primers unnecessary but once you try one you instantly see the benefit and need for it. They create an even base surface for hair products and tools. They create a weightless, humidity-resistant shield between the strands and whatever you apply or that comes in contact with your hair. They allow the style to last longer, frizz to be at bay and stave off damage during styling.

Who can use a hair primer?

There is a hair primer out there for everyone because some give more shine while others may aid in detangling. There are actually quite a few primers out there from sprays to creams. Once I investigated I was able to find out just how great these products are for every hair type. Aveda has three primers:

For Type 3’s and Type 4’s to keep curls shapely and frizz free, Aveda suggest combining the Be Curly Curl Enhancer and Smooth Infusion Style-prep Smoother through your hair. The Smooth Infusion Style-prep Smoother creates a smooth, soft, frizz-free style that lasts all day and Be Curly Curl Enhancer intensifies curls, tames frizz, and heightens shine. They advise applying the combination to damp hair, pulling through to highlight strands, and suggest using a diffuser to help lock in any curls as well.  

Bumble & Bumble has three primers:

According to the Bumble & Bumble expert, “(Hairdressers Invisible Oil Primer”> is a UV and heat protectant pre-styler that prepares hair for styling. (It’s”> best for dry, coarse, or brittle hair. It can be used on wet or dry hair before heat styling and even works to detangle. Hairdressers Invisible Oil Primer can be used on all hair types and textures. The line focuses mostly on adding hydration to coarse, dry, and/or thick hair.

The BB Prep Primer is best for those who have finer hair. It brings out the hairs natural texture and helps with lift. For dry, coarser strands the BB Tonic Lotion has soothing agents in their styling aids. BB does say that all of their primer products are meant to enhance the styling aids performance.

Is hair primer similar to a leave-in conditioner or moisturizer?

This product is intended to be used alone or under styling products, but it is applied after your cleansing and conditioning process, including your leave-in conditioner. Also this product is most effective in styles that fail or fall rather quickly like blow-outs or curling wand styles. This is a barrier product working like a heat protectant, so it is different from a leave-in conditioner and the moisturizer, as it has multiple functions. It is also great for usage prior to every styling session.

With further investigating it appears there are several primers that will be great for all hair types and some may need to be in conjunction with other products to give optimal smoothness, combat frizz, or add shine.

Follow photographer Christina Nwabugo here:

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Have you tried a hair primer?

The Benefits of Sea Kelp for Hair
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by DaveAlan — Getty Images
Sea kelp is algae, a type of brown seaweed that grows in the ocean. It can reach astronomical sizes and as of late is becoming a popular dietary supplement mainly due to its iodine content. Eastern countries have consumed this sea veggie for years but we are seeing it in the United States in everything from dishes to deep conditioners. Now the advantages of consuming or using sea kelp are vast and while eating it is a great way to garner those attributes, for many it is an acquired taste and not for everyone. For the rest of us there are supplements or products that harness those goodies for us so we do not have to eat it raw.  

Benefits of sea kelp

Sea kelp is in a plethora of vitamins, macronutrients, and minerals. It contains 46 minerals, 16 amino acids, and 11 vitamins. Iodine, iron, potassium, phosphorus, and salt are the most prominent minerals, while niacin and vitamin A are the lead vitamins.  Because of its high iodine content, sea kelp is essential in regulating thyroid hormones but also perfect for persons suffering from a deficiency in iodine. It is excellent for hydration and improves metabolism and increases energy. It is an alkaline food and great for maintaining an acid base balance in the body and can even protect against radiation poisoning.

Benefits of sea kelp for hair

From cleansing to toning, moisturizing to repairing, sea kelp is a winner on all fronts for hair and scalp. If someone is deficient in minerals or vitamins due to illness, hormones, or diet, then sea kelp is excellent in adding those nutrients to the body as a supplement. Whenever there is a deficiency in the body of a vitamin or mineral, hair is the first to go. For instance, a zinc deficiency may cause thinning hair. Actually, a deficiency in iron or potassium can also cause thinning hair or hair loss, so sea kelp being rich in iodine, potassium, and iron is an ideal fix. The iodine in sea kelp is not just great for regulating the thyroid, it is also great for treating dandruff.

Several of the minerals in sea kelp along with iodine will promote a healthier scalp and stronger hair. Sea kelp has been added to shampoos, conditioner, and hair treatments for strengthening and nourishing hair and scalp. Our hair and scalp need proper hydration and sea kelp will hydrate both and improve dry hair. The best way to get all the nutrients and vitamins of sea kelp is through consumption, and a diet rich in vitamins, proteins, and minerals will yield a healthier body and in turn a healthier scalp and hair. There are sea kelp supplements and there are several hair care brands that add it to their formulas for easier use if consumption is not the way you choose to use sea kelp.

Products with Sea Kelp

Sea Kelp + Clay Hair Mask

For the DIYers in the group here’s a hair mask just for you.

  • 3 Tbsp. powered seaweed (sea kelp”>
  • 3 Tbsp. Rhassoul clay
  • 10 drops lemongrass essential oil

Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl and add enough water to create a paste.  Spread through wet hair and let sit for 45 min. Rinse thoroughly and style as usual.

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5 Signs Your Hairstylist Knows Curly Hair
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by claudio.arnese — Getty Images
Finding the right fit for you and your curls does not have to be a never-ending battle. It requires a few steps from you to ensure you have the right fit, and believe me it is worth it. First off, do not assume just because a stylist shares your hair texture, skin color, or ethnicity will make them aware on how to care for your hair. Unfortunately, most hair stylists are taught how to care for chemically treated or relaxed hair and have little knowledge on natural hair. 

How do you find the right stylist? Do your research. Many of us have already been through or know someone else who has had a horrible haircut from a stylist not trained in styling curly hair. In order to avoid similar experiences, do a little digging to find that right person so you and your stylist are on the same page and trust one another.  Watch for these six signs that will let you know you are definitely with the right person.

They insist on a consultation

We all have different coils, curls, and waves and a consultation is a must to ensure they see your hair texture and density and discuss expectations. A consultation allows the two of you to meet so you can tell them what you want and for you to see if they are the right fit for you and your hair. It allows you to see their shop, the products they use, and get to know them before services are rendered. Communication is important for a pleasant experience so do not opt out of a consultation.

They know your language

Believe me, if they do not know how to care for textured hair, you will find out as soon as you ask the first question. They should be well-trained and experienced in textured hair and what it needs, ask the right questions, and discuss the products that will be used on your hair. With the rise in textured hair, many stylists may feel the urgency to work on textured-haired clients, but if they are not trained in textured hair then you do not want to be their curly girl guinea pig. Find an experienced stylist you can trust, and one way to build that trust is to speak to them and see if they know the terms, ingredients and common concerns of curly girls.

They have been curly trained

Many stylists are being extensively trained in all forms of textured hair from waves to coils like at the Deva Inspired Salons or Ouidad Certified Salon just to name a couple. These curly trained stylists are taught how to care for hair types from Type 2 to Type 4 and every coil in-between for styles, cuts, coloring, and more. They are not the only professionals that are experts on textured hair but they have gone through rigorous training to learn how curly hair grows, hangs, and thrives. Don’t hesitate to ask if they have received professional training with caring for textured hair.

They have a solid reputation as a natural or textured hair stylist

Recommendations are a great way to determine if your chosen stylist is worth his or her salt. Word of mouth is golden as well as reviews and sites that share a list of qualified stylists for curly hair at Curl Salons. Peruse them prior to selecting a stylist to see if you like their services. More salons are appointment only, especially for textured hair, so try to gather as much information as possible before your consultation. Check to see if they have a social media presence and look at reviews online.

If they charge the same for curly or textured hair as straight hair

If a stylist chooses to charge more for textured hair, then there is a good chance she does not work on it often. It may take her longer or it may seem like a burden, so do not patron someone who sees your texture as a burden.

Now, no one says you have to solely go to a stylist who works only on natural or textured hair, do your research on them to see just how many textured hair clients they have and how often they work on textured hair. You want someone who embraces your hair and does not see it as a challenge or charge you more.

Our hair is not a challenge but a delight and you want the stylist you pick to feel the same way. Do a little research and consult with them to determine if the fit is right. The tips above will not steer you wrong and may just find you the perfect person for all your curly hair needs.

To hear what the stylists think, check out the discussion below with celebrity stylist Felicia Leatherwood and Anthony Dickey.

Looking for a stylist?

If you’re searching for a stylist in your area, use our Salon Finder to enter your location or zip code and find a listing of curly hair stylists and reviews from our community.

The Benefits of Sacha Inchi Oil for Hair
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo Courtesy of Peru Delights
Unheard beauty secrets and ingredients to curly girls do not mean they are new to the world, as many have been used for centuries for medicinal and beautification. A new to us natural oil making headway is sacha inchi oil that comes from the Inca peanut and is the seed of a plant that grows in South America. Sacha inchi seeds (Plukenetia volubilis“> actually grow in the rainforests of Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Columbia, Venezuela, Brazil, and Suriname. They are often called Peruvian super foods and have been a great food source for over 3,000 years. 

The oil comes from the seeds, which are harvested from green, star-shaped pods. There is a long production time but can produce as long as 75 years. The pods are inedible unlike the seeds but once the seeds are harvested from the pods they are cold-pressed to release the sacha inchi oil. The pulp is used for bread, feed, flour, or soap but the oil is of high quality and extremely nutritious.

What is the composition of sacha inchi oil?

This little known exotic oil is unique because it is the most unsaturated known vegetable with an unsaturated fatty acid content of 93.69%. Sacha inchi oil also has the lowest content of saturated fatty acids in the world with 6.39%. Almost 90% of the oil is essential fatty acids with 48% Omega-3 (alpha-linolenic acid”>, 33% Omega-6  (linoleic acid”>, and 9% non-essential Omega-9. The seeds are rich in proteins, vitamins, and fiber and are easily digested. With a similar flavor to olive oil, it is loved by vegans and vegetarians with its high composition of omega-3s. Sacha inchi seeds and oil sits in the beloved group with chia seeds, flaxseeds, and microalgae as vegan omega-3s as super foods.

Read more: Oleic and Linoleic Acid: Why You Love Oils So Much

The uses of sacha inchi oil

Omega-3s are extremely beneficial for skin and hair. It helps to regulate oil production, helping to lock in needed moisture. By locking in moisture it helps in keeping the scalp and hair conditioned and relieves irritated or scaly scalps from eczema and/or psoriasis. The oil is light in nature, making it absorb easily and quickly into the skin. This makes it exceptional in facial serums, creams, lotions, and hair and body butters. It also has a remarkably long shelf life of 18 months and with the natural tocopherol and strong antioxidants properties, sacha inchi oil helps to lengthen the life as well. This newly loved oil for hair care is great for sensitive skin, a natural emollient, superb for acne and blemished skin, and ideal for brittle hair and dry scalp.

Products with sacha inchi oil

Sacha inchi oil can be found online and local health food stores and is great by itself in scalp massages and oil blends. It can be found in some hair products that have added this super oil to their formulations.

Have you tried this up and coming hair and beauty oil?  

The Benefits of Date Seed Oil for Hair
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by Grigory Fedyukovich — Getty Images
When we discuss hair oils we do not often veer off from the most common like coconut oil, olive oil, or jojoba oil. Our world is chocked full with amazing oils that often date back thousands of years and in the most unlikely of fruits, nuts, or even seeds for that matter. One overlooked but gaining popularity daily is the remarkably beneficial date seed oil that comes from none other than our regular date. Dates are a sweet fruit dating back to 7000 B.C. They grow on the date palm tree or Phoenix dactylifera and are a major staple food in areas of North Africa and the Middle East. Dates are oblong, one-seeded berries with a fleshy and sweet pericarp. The date palm grows about 75 ft. tall with floral spikes branches, and male and female flowers are borne on separate plants. More than 1,000 dates may grow on a single bunch weighing around 18 lbs. or more and all parts of the palm yields products of economic value. 

Besides being a tasty fruit, dates have amazing health benefits and are full of nutritional value with vitamins, minerals, and fiber. While being high in sugar, they are also high in calcium, sulfur, iron, potassium, phosphorous, manganese, copper, and even oil. Date seeds contain major nutrients like potassium, magnesium, calcium, and phosphorous, but they also are loaded with essential fatty acids beneficial for our bodies. The dates have oil, but the seeds what have an even bigger content. According to Science Direct, date oil is extracted from the seeds and has an impressive composition of vitamins, nutrients, and essential fatty acids, including 50.10% oleic, 19.23% linoleic, and 10.24% lauric, 9.83% palmitic, and 7.51% stearic fatty acids.

Read more: Oleic and Linoleic Acid: The Reasons You Love Oils So Much

Why is this oil so great for hair?

Date seed oil is plentiful with fatty acids but has over 50% of its fatty acid content from oleic acid. Oleic acid is one of the reasons curly girls love natural oils so much. Oleic acid is an Omega-9 fatty acid that controls water loss in hair strands and makes them look and feel softer and more pliable. The second most prevalent fatty acid is linoleic acid and this is also another oil we love and for good reason. Linoleic is an Omega-6 fatty acid that our bodies need but cannot create and it stimulates hair growth while helping to maintain a healthy scalp. It also controls water loss so moisture is kept right where it belongs…in the hair strands. Lauric acid is third in abundance in this oil and with its antimicrobial, antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral properties it creates a healthier scalp that is free from irritants like dandruff or other scalp aliments. It also promotes an environment for hair growth because it binds with hair proteins and prevents hair loss.

Read more: You Need These Fatty Acids for Healthy Hair

Date seed oil is packed with nutrients, which nourish the hair follicles and keep hair at optimal growth and maintenance. This makes for stronger strands and a healthier scalp. This oil is wonderful for hair and scalp massages and you get one-stop shop with its ability to maintain a healthy scalp while strengthening the hair. It can be used by itself or in conjunction with other oils, and if wanting to buy some you may have better luck looking for it just as date oil. While finding products with date seed oil or date oil may be challenging, simply eating dates is another great way to harness their amazing abilities to keep your hair and scalp healthy and strong.

Read more:  4 Acids that are Great for Your Hair

Products with date seed oil

6 Hair Treatments You Already Have In Your Pantry
By Sabrina Perkins ·

DIY can be fun, easy, and inexpensive – no need to feel overwhelmed with lengthy ingredients. Many DIY projects have two or three ingredients and can be found right in your own home.

For DIY hair treatments many of our ingredients are found right in the kitchen pantry.

I know most of us have them just lurking around waiting to be in a stir fry or a salad, and while it may seem a little unorthodox, it can be something new to try and fun.

Beer +ACV Hair Rinse

Most of us have a couple of beers stashed in the fridge, and most curly girls always keep some apple cider vinegar (ACV”> around for either household cleaning or in their hair so snag the beer and the ACV for this hair softening, detangling rinse.

  • ¼ cup apple cider vinegar 
  • 1 cup beer

Mix the two together and wash hair as usual. Pour over cleansed hair and massage into strands. Leave on for 5-10 min. before rinsing with warm water. Style as usual.

Sabrina’s Super Simple Coffee Hair Rinse

  • 1-2 cups freshly brewed (but cooled”> coffee

After cleansing hair pour cooled coffee over your head. Apply deep conditioner to strands (as you normally would after cleansing hair”> liberally and allow mixture to sit under a plastic or heat cap for 30 min. Rinse and style as usual. You can also just cleanse and condition hair and pour the coffee over your head and keep in for 15 to 30 min. before rinsing and styling as usual too.

Brown Sugar + Oatmeal Exfoliating Scalp Scrub

Scalp scrubs are increasing in popularity but most scrubs are pricey especially when you see how cheap it is to create one yourself. The holidays have just passed so most of us still have some brown sugar and even oatmeal in the kitchen to create this super simple scalp scrub.

  • 2 Tbsp. brown sugar
  • 2 Tbsp. finely ground oatmeal
  • 2 Tbsp. favorite conditioner

Mix ingredients well in a bowl and wash hair as usual. Scoop a small amount into the palm of your hand and work your mixture into your scalp using circular motions. Once completed rinse well and style as usual. No need to cleanse again.

DIY Dandruff Scalp Scrub

  • 2 Tbsp. sea salt
  • 1-2 Tbsp. lemon juice
  • 1-2 Tbsp. olive oil

Mix ingredients in a small bowl well before applying to dry, unwashed hair. Massage well into scalp with circular motions for several minutes. Rinse well, shampoo, and style as usual.

Pumpkin & Honey Hair Mask

Pumpkin is rich in vitamins A, C, and potassium and honey is a natural humectant. Together they are perfect for a moisturizing hair mask. I know some of us have some cans of pumpkin lying around after the holiday and we keep honey on deck to sweeten our tea.

  • ¼ cup canned pumpkin puree or raw pumpkin
  • 1-2 Tbsp. honey

Mix ingredients in a bowl well before applying to cleansed hair and scalp. Apply well before covering with a plastic cap and allow to sit for 15 to 20 min. Rinse with water before styling as usual and this is even great for a face mask too.

DIY Banana Beauty Hair Mask

The only mask with this many ingredients but stellar and most of us have all of these right in our kitchen pantry. Heal, strengthen, and promote a healthy scalp with this great hair mask.

  • 1 to 2 overripe bananas
  • 1 tsp. coconut oil
  • 1 tsp. olive oil
  • 1 tsp. honey
  • Blender

Blend banana until smooth before adding honey, coconut, and olive oils to the blender and blend again. Slather mask into cleansed hair and allow to sit for 5-10 min. Rinse well with warm water making sure to remove all of the hair mask and style as usual.

Do you have a favorite DIY pantry hair treatment?

3 Cheap Dupes for Your Favorite Curly Hairspray
By Sabrina Perkins ·
PICTURED: NATURALLYCURLY READER BrittanyMaria
Hair spray is not just for the straight-haired women looking for sleek ponytails. Curly girls want and use hair spray. We have very similar hair desires as straight-haired women but when we want a product that is tailored to us some brands tack on a higher fee. StacyBPT from Curly Q&A inquired about a less expensive version of her favorite hair spray for her curly hair. 

Question

Is there a good & cheaper substitution for DevaCurl hairspray? I love it but $25/can is too much! The hold is just enough so I can re-do my hair another day or 2 without washing it and I actually like the smell and ingredients (for hairspray anyway”>. I don’t want something that is going to cement my hair but I do want some hold. I also prefer to stay on the more natural side ingredient-wise. Thanks!

Answer

Yes, there are less expensive alternatives to your favorite DevaCurl Flexible-Hold Hairspray but they may not work as well. There’s a reason DevaCurl was voted the community’s favorite salon brand in 2014 and it won our wavy Editors’ Choice award for favorite hairspray in 2015. While there are other options on the market, there are not many designed especially for curly girls, and when you find a need that is not being adequately met, prices tend to be higher.

What is hair spray?

Hair spray is a solution of polymers in a volatile solvent that when sprayed deposits a stiff layer of the polymer on the hair after the solvent evaporates. Their job is to keep your hair in place. There are light, medium, heavy to extra heavy hold variations but then there are even ones specifically for curly, color-treated, or persons wanting sun protection. Hair sprays have gotten a bad rap because of the aerosol cans and their ozone-depleting chemicals (chlorofluorocarbons”> that have been eliminated since the 1970’s. Later it became a federal regulation with the Clean Air Act and the EPA restricting the use of CFC’s for non-consumer products. Now most consumer aerosol products are made using propellants like hydrocarbons and compressed gasses like nitrous oxide that do not deplete the ozone layer, according to Scientific American.

Do curly girls use hair spray?

There are numerous types of hair sprays now for hold, shine, or volume but there are even some for protection against the sun, while aerosol hair sprays are better for adding the finishing hold on a straight or blow out style non-aerosol sprays are better for locking in the shape and texture for curly hair. Price does matter according to Kathleen Firth, stylist and owner of Paul Mitchell Focus Salon Raika Studio in Manhattan told Women’s Health. You get what you pay for and cheaper brands may leave behind a residue, not hold up as well, and may not necessarily be infused with those natural ingredients you love so much with DevaCurl Flexible-Hold Hairspray.

Popular inexpensive hairsprays for curly hair

You may decide to just stick with your favorite (even opting for the smaller $10 size”> but you can always give one of the above brands a try and see if they give you what you want at a price you can afford. Invest in a great clarifying shampoo if you do choose a less expensive brand that may leave the residue you are trying to avoid to make washdays go smoother.

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NaturallyCurly reader BrittanyMaria posted her photo on StyleNook and shared that she used DevaCurl’s Flexible Hold Hairspray to help her achieve this look. If you’d like to post your own curly selfie to StyleNook, share it here. 

10 Charcoal Shampoos to Remove Toxins from Your Hair & Scalp
By Sabrina Perkins ·

Charcoal is making its rounds again in not just skin care but hair products as well. An ingredient for clearing toxins, more brands are including it in their formulas for cleaning hair and scalp of impurities from the environment. We hear it, see it, and love using it, but what is charcoal and is it really an asset in our hair care regimens? 

What is charcoal?

Mostly pure carbon, charcoal is a certain kind of half-burnt wood and the best charcoal comes from hard wood like beech or oak. The charcoal is made by cooking the wood in a low oxygen environment. Archaeological evidence of charcoal production goes back around 30,000 years ago.

What is the difference between charcoal and activated charcoal?

Activated charcoal is similar to regular charcoal but is made specifically for used in medicines to treat poisonings, reduce gas and cholesterol levels, and even to prevent hangovers. The regular charcoal is heated in the presence of a gas that causes the charcoal to create internal spaces or “pores” and that allows the charcoal to trap the chemicals, increasing its absorbing power.

Does charcoal really remove toxins?

I wanted to find out so I enlisted the help of scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., RPhT to find out.

First of all, what are toxins?

“Toxins can be anything from pollution in the environment to medications that you take even the foods you eat. Toxins lodge in your cells, soft tissues, and muscles, and overwhelm your entire immune system. It is a poisonous non-biological substance (but sometimes proteins can be toxins”> that causes disease when introduced in the body.”

Does charcoal remove them?

“Activated charcoal, or activated carbon, has oxygen added to it to increase its porosity, thereby, adding to its surface area. More surface area allows for more contact between molecules increasing the rate of reaction. It is used to remove toxins in chemical reactions. Best example is using activated charcoal to filter fish tanks. You can also ingest activated charcoal as a supplement.”

So, activated charcoal does remove toxins and toxins can be more than just environmental pollutants or substances inside our bodies. Toxins can be in our hair or on our scalp so shampoos with activated charcoal serves a useful purpose.

Here are ten shampoos + 1 DIY recipe with the toxin destroying benefits of charcoal.

Apotheke Sulfate free Charcoal Shampoo

Acidity neutralizing, impurity absorbing charcoal shampoo by Apotheke is sulfate free and scented with only essential natural oils.

Ecomax Natural Bamboo Charcoal Shampoo 

Made with bamboo charcoal powder, decyl glucoside (mild non-ionic surfactant”>, citric acid, cocamide DEA (surfactant derived from coconut oil”>, and cocamidoproply betaine (Foam booster derived from coconut oil”>. A natural shampoo created to soothe while stimulating scalp and skin.

Hask Charcoal Clarifying Shampoo

A potent clarifying shampoo using the power of charcoal, lemon, and grapefruit oils to eliminate impurities on the hair and scalp. Water, cleansing agents, and glycerin make up this powerful and effective shampoo.

Myth Bamboo Charcoal Detoxifying Shampoo

Made with DI water and bamboo charcoal, this detoxifying shampoo is potent at drawing out the dirt, toxins and pollutants from your hair and scalp. No parabens, silicones, or fragrances and 85% natural.

Pelican DEI-TAN-SEKI Clay & Charcoal Shampoo

Harness the power of charcoal and clay in this impurity fighting shampoo. Water, cocamidopropyl betaine, and charcoal powder cleans effectively yet gently and even has camellia seed oil for softness.

SheaMoisture African Black Soap Deep Cleansing Shampoo 

SheaMoisture brings a soothing shampoo with this sulfate-free deep cleansing. Charcoal, plantain enzymes, and tea tree oil work hard at relieving itching and irritation.

SheaMoisture Detox & Refresh Hair & Scalp Gentle Shampoo 

This new line from SheaMoisture brings African water mint, ginger activated charcoal, and opuntia extracts to remove dirt, oil, and product buildup effectively. Sulfate free and great for all hair types, this new gentle shampoo will moisturize, sooth, and stimulate scalp circulation for healthy hair.

Sort of Coal – Kuro Activated Charcoal Shampoo 

Better suited for oily to normal hair types, this black shampoo cleanses your hair to get it clean, healthy, and lustrous with the power of activated white charcoal.

Sort of Coal – Shiro Activated Charcoal Shampoo

White charcoal is used in this scalp stimulating, impurity absorbing shampoo. No parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrances or dyes, this activated charcoal shampoo is perfect for normal to dry hair types.

Voodoo Bamboo Charcoal Shampoo Bar From Australia with Organic Leatherwood Honey

Mountain spring water, bamboo charcoal, coconut oil, and olive oil make up the backbone to the only shampoo bar on our list. This leaves hair incredibly clean and shiny without the impurities and scalp ailments like dandruff and eczema.

Turn your regular shampoo into a charcoal shampoo

Just open up a capsule of activated charcoal and mix in with a dollop of your favorite shampoo to get the toxin-ridding benefits of charcoal.

Recovering From Thinning Shears
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by ffolas — Getty Images
Curly girls know a lot about volume, and while some embrace it others find it distracting and wish to lose it. One popular solution for removing bulk from curly hair is the use of thinning shears. However, thinning the bulk can often create a larger issue with uneven curls, frizz or lost curls, and for drdi in Curly Q&A it ended in a disaster. 

Question

Hairdresser used thinning shears-DISASTER! Help! A week ago I had a haircut not to my regular hairdresser. My curls were feeling a little bit heavy, so I asked him to do something to control that. He used the thinning shears. It was the first time this is done to my hair, and I didn’t have any idea of how bad it is. Now most of my curls are gone, other parts appear straight (especially the front close to the face”> and there are some very thin ringlets. Also, after the haircut, I noticed that my hair become oily very easily, something that was not happening before. How long does it take to get back to the previous condition? What should I do to improve it? Would it help to cut my hair a little bit?

Answer

I have been in your shoes and it took forever for my hair to grow back into a style that allowed me to feel good about my hair again. In all fairness, I had no clue what I wanted or how I needed my hair to create a style, but what I got was not it! It ruined my curls, my fullness, and my ends. Needless to say those slicing and thinning cuts are not ideal for all curly girls, but I have some tips that may help until your hair grows out.

Find a professional to fix your cut

You can find a stylist who specializes in the DevaCut to help rescue your curls. They are not gone forever but a professional may need to step in to fix the problem. I am a big proponent of the DevaCut but let me tell you why. First off, the bad cutting experience I had allowed me to find out what I did not want nor worked well for my hair and secondly I have had two DevaCuts and they were marvelous. The DevaCut is a specialized cut for curly, coily, and wavy hair that focuses on sculpting each curl without disrupting the curl pattern. Stylists are extensively trained to learn this technique. The cut is done on dry hair since curly hair is very different when wet. This cut is excellent for the curly girls who love the wash and go style.

There are more cutting styles other than the DevaCut that work just as well if not better and it really depends on the client and the style they are going for. There is the RI CI Cut by Edgy salon owner, stylist, and educator Ricky Pennisi, which is based on hair weight and density and not curl pattern. While this cut has a different premise, they concentrate on the problem area to create movement and allow your curls to be frizz-free and beautiful. Again, go for a consultation and see if they can fix your cut prior to making the appointment.

Working with your hair

You can pin up or roller set the hair that refuses to curl or try braid outs or twist outs to get all the hair to curl homogeneously. Applying a holding product while scrunching those pesky strands to get them to curl may help as well especially if it is only a few sections unwilling to cooperate.

So you can achieve uniformity in your hair by curling it or you can seek out a professional in curly hair and curly cuts. Make sure to have a consultation so the stylist can see your hair and determine the course of action. Take your time finding the right person and know that whatever route you choose to take your hair will grow back and your curls will return.

Have you ever had a bout with the thinning shears? 

Top 12 Styling Creams for People Who Hate Gel
By Sabrina Perkins ·

There are all types of curl definers for curly girls from mousse to gels to creams, and while many, like myself, love gels, they are not everyone’s favorite. My sister and best friend wouldn’t be caught dead using gel with its heaviness and for quite a few curlies, mousse does not provide enough a lasting hold. For these we have the lovely creams that can combat frizz without weighing down or flattening your curls, waves, and coils. It puts your hair in a happy place by being light enough to give your hair to have movement but not so light that you lose curl definition.

We have 12 of the top styling creams for all curl patterns and while money is no object for some, many on the list are quite inexpensive so your wallet will be happy too.

Wavy Type 2 Hair

Garnier Fructis Style Soft Curl Cream

You want carefree waves and you can do that with this soft curl cream. It has water, a humectant, fatty alcohols, and slip for easy application. A great formula to smooth those hairs in place without weighing it down. Get soft, shapely curls and waves and lots of moisture.

Desert Essence Soft Curls Hair Cream 

Add a soft weightless bounce to your waves and curls with Desert Essence Soft curls hair cream.  The first few ingredients in this hair ream are water, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of fatty alcohols”>, behentrimonium methosulfate (mild hair detangler”>, coconut oil, and safflower seed oil. Gain softness and defined waves and curls with a shiny bounce to your tresses.

Oyin Handmade Boing! 

Water, unrefined shea butter, behentremonium methosulfate, and cetearyl alcohol, and vegetable glycerin give life to this frizz fighting styler. Great for your delicate wavy hair.

Ouidad Wave Create Texture Taffy

A taffy styler that creates those beachy waves we love with water, glycerin, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate (surfactant and emulsifying agent”>, and PEG-100 stearate (emulsifier”>. Excellent for delicate hair as it glides easily through your strands and creates long-lasting touchable waves and curls.

Read more: Good Alcohols vs. Bad Alcohols

Curly Type 3 Hair

DevaCurl Styling Cream 

Water, cetearyl alcohol, glycerin, behentrimonium chloride, tapioca starch (thickener and viscosity enhancer”>, cetrimonium chloride (emulsifier”> come together to create a deeply nourishing and shaping styling cream.

CURLS Curl Soufflè 

Define those curls while staving off the frizz and locking in the much-needed moisture. Water, aloe leaf juice, glycerin, sunflower seed oil make up the first six ingredients in this soufflé-textured defrizzing hair cream. Great for thick curls too.

Miss Jessie’s Quick Curls

Get weightless curls with this fast-acting styling cream with the fresh scent and conditioning formula. Water, mineral oil, polyquaternium-11 (style holder”>, cyclopentasiloxane (increases slip”>, glycerin, and PPG-5 Ceteth-20 (emollient”> make up the first six ingredients in this lightweight cream that is great for holding a style.

Living Proof Curl Defining Styling Cream 

Get extra conditioning and light hold with Living Proof Curl Defining Styling Cream. Block frizz and humidity while conditioning your strands and achieving touchable soft curls.

Read more: Alcohols and Your Hair, What You Should Know

Coily Type 4 Hair

Cantu Shea Butter Coconut Curling Cream 

Define, condition and add manageability to your curls and coils with this sweet smelling curl cream. With water, canola oil, glycerin, and cetearyl alcohol help to restore your curls and shine without mineral oil, sulfates, parabens, or silicones.

Curls Unleashed Take Command Curl Defining Crème 

Water, coconut oil, shea butter, safflower seed oil, and soybean oil are the nourishing ingredients in this hard working curl cream. Define, elongate, and soften your curls without flaking or shrinkage.

Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper Styling Cream 

Your coils and curls get amazing hold without the frizz in this pH balancing curl cream. Made ingredients like water, propylene glycol, and glycerin to reactivate your curls and fight frizz in humid weather.

Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Crème 

Water, coconut oil, vegetable oil, aloe vera leaf juice, cetyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol are the first six ingredients in this medium holding curl defining cream. This curl definer fights humidity without compromising on moisture and style.

What’s your favorite styling cream?

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The Benefits of Glycolic Acid for Hair
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by Staras — Getty Images
Hair ages just like the rest of our bodies, and as beauty brands scour the earth to keep us younger, firmer, and fit, we sometimes find those same anti-aging ingredients for skin in our hair care products.

Alpha-hydroxides and skin

Alpha-hydroxides (AHA”> have been used for years in the beauty industry for their anti-aging properties. They are used for diminishing wrinkles, making skin more supple and moisturized, and even improving the complexion and texture of skin. They are natural acids found in plants, fruits, and milk and are used as chemical exfoliants that remove the outer layer of dead skin cells bringing about fresher new skin to the surface. 

Glycolic, lactic, citric, and salicylic acids are all AHAs with salicylic acid is the most popular because it is the simplest, smallest, and able to penetrate skin deeply and easily. Glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and has a reputation for being one of the safest of all AHAs in treating fine lines, acne, blackheads, and even skin.

Glycolic acid and hair

While numerous studies have shown the benefits of AHA, namely glycolic acid on skin, the benefits of hair was relatively unknown until DuPont and the Textile Research Institute (TRI”> in Princeton, New Jersey, conducted several studies in 2009 on the effects of glycolic acid in hair care products. They conducted four experiments: Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC”> Test – testing the temperature on hair (like heat styling”>, tensile strength, repeated brushing, and wet combing. They found adding glycolic acid to hair improved the protection and manageability by conditioning, moisturizing, strengthening while also preventing breakage. This was the same outcome for healthy and bleached hair. They also found it helped hair to maintain its moisture and stay stronger at high temperatures like heat styling. There was more lubricity to hair which created less friction and tangles and overall better manageability factor.

Glycolic acid in your products

Hair care lines are catching onto the goodness of AHAs with glycolic acid and lauric acid as the main stars in their products. They are used in shampoos, conditioners, and detanglers for their cleansing, conditioning, and detangling abilities but also because they strengthen and keep hair moisturized.  While AHAs are making their way into hair care products, it is a slow process for all of them to be used. We find more hair products with citric acid or lactic acid but glycolic is making its way into lesser curly girl known products. We know this trend is gaining steam but here are a few below for you to check out.

Gravity & Curly Hair: This is Why Your Hair’s "Not Growing"
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo Courtesy of Jacob Ammentorp Lund — Getty Images
Curly hair has a mind of its own. You can use the same products in the same weather conditions and still have varying looks of our curls, coils, and waves. We know this and accept it because that is what makes our hair so beautiful. On the downside you can tire of wanting a certain look and not always being able to achieve it. With hair growth being one of the top five concern for curly girls, seeing that length retention can often become difficult because of the structure of our hair. It can be challenging to understand why it grows out before growing down, and curly girl Shaleia.McEl, inquired about why her hair is healthy but not growing in Curly Q&A. 

Question

Why isn’t my hair growing? I love my hair and I almost have all of the damaged hair cut away from the last time I used heat (a week before Thanksgiving”> but I noticed that my hair isn’t really attaining any length. It’s frustrating to no end and I don’t know what to do! I have 3c hair in the back, 4a hair behind my ears, and 3b hair in the front. I use the curly girl method on my hair. I pre-poo before every wash then try to deep condition (always running out”>.

When I get out of the shower I let my hair dry for a couple minutes (it takes a lot of water to wet my hair but it dries very quickly”> in a towel then put in coconut oil, leave-in conditioner, and lastly a curl enhancing cream (I go between DevaCurl SuperCream and Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie“>. Then I put my hair in a braid-out, put on a hair bonnet, and let it out in the morning. Now I thought that it could be my ends brushing against my shoulders so I’ve been using up-dos on a weekly basis and other protective styles, but it hasn’t made any difference. My hair is the healthiest it has ever been and I have a lot more volume but the length is the same. I don’t know what to do and I’m at my wits end. PLEASE HELP.

Answer

Your hair is growing. Hair continues to grow and often we confuse hair growth with length retention, which is retaining the oldest hair (the ends”> and not losing them through breakage. Your routine sounds solid and you state your hair is healthier than it has ever been. You are doing a great job of protecting your ends as loose ends are in constant contact with clothing, purse straps, or even the outdoor elements and may fray or become damaged quicker than ends that are put away or protected. It sounds like you have high porosity hair since it dries so quickly. I would recommend switching up the order in which you apply your coconut oil and leave-in conditioner, try applying the leave-in conditioner first to moisturize your hair followed by the oil to seal it in.

Now, before we assume you are struggling with breakage let’s discuss a popular problem curly girls face with their hair, namely hair shrinkage.

What is shrinkage?

Hair shrinkage is when individual strands compress themselves into tight rotations, causing the hair to grow outward. While some believe that curly hair grows slower than straight hair, that is a myth as all hair grows around ¼ to ½ an inch per month, depending on your health and genetics. Our hair just bends and curves and the length cannot be easily seen unless straightened out. Type 4s tend to have the most shrinkage with their tighter coils and you said you had some Type 4 coils on your head so that may be giving the illusion that the hair is not growing.

Many curly girls do yearly or semi-yearly length checks to determine how much has grown. Your hair may appear to be getting “bigger” instead of longer, and a yearly length check is a great way to determine if it is retaining length that may not be showing.

Could be time for a trim

Often when we feel our hair is not retaining length it may be due to raggedy ends that need to be trimmed, which is necessary to retain length. Frayed or damaged ends can lead to damage further up the hair shaft and keep your curls from attaining their full growth potential.

Try scalp massages

You can always enlist in scalp massages with natural oils to promote blood circulation to your hair follicles and create a rich environment for hair growth. Doing this a few times a week can be relaxing and a great way to boost your hair’s growth.

Moisturize and seal

Dry and brittle hair breaks, so keeping your hairs hydrated and sealed combat that breakage and in turn gives you more length retention. Deep conditioning after every wash, hot oil treatments, and enlisting in the LOC method will aid in keeping those strands moisturized and sealed. The LOC method is a particular order in which you apply your products as I mentioned above. Start with your leave-in conditioner (L”>, seal in the moisture with an oil (O”>, followed by a cream (C”>. 

"Is there a product that can help relax the roots a bit while my hair grows out? "
By Sabrina Perkins ·
Photo by alvarez — Getty Images
Transitioning is a popular term in recent years. Transitioning is the discontinuation of using permanent straighteners in an effort to allow your natural texture to grow out. Any woman who has previously straightened her curls and chooses to now wear her hair naturally will have a transitioning period, and the same rules apply on how to handle it. Cef with 3b hair finds herself in this situation and inquired about how to fix it in Curly Q&A section. 

Question

Serious trouble with curly roots while hair is growing out from permanent straightening!! I got a permanent hair straightening treatment back in June. It was not supposed to be permanent (should only last a couple of months”>, but it is January, and my hair is still board straight with the exception of the 1.5″ roots, which are curly (I cannot even get the straight parts to be a little bit wavy using both a leave-in conditioner and Curls Rock- which was my go-to product for my naturally curly hair”>.  I had my hair cut so it is shoulder length- which helped remove the dead ends, but I cannot straighten it every day as I feel it is breaking, and I now have 2 different textures. Is there a product that can help relax the roots a bit while my hair grows out? There is a BIG difference between the roots and the rest of my hair.  My curly hair starts at the roots- it is not slightly wavy at the roots and then the curls start several inches out.  Has anyone else gone through this?

Answer

Yes, other women have gone through this and it is called transitioning either with the big chop (where you cut all the permanently straightened hair”> or you long-term transition (where you allow your natural texture to grow out and slowly cut off the straightened ends.”> Long-term transitioning can be anywhere from a few months to two years, as the decision to cut the remaining straightened hairs is completely up to you.

Mixing the two textures is an obvious solution to your problem but how to do it can be challenging. First off, steering clear of heat is a great idea especially since you are worried about breakage. You do not want to incur heat damage from the constant heat styling, so many transitioners opt for curly styles that can be achieved several ways. Also, there are heatless methods to stretch your hair.

Perm Rods

Perm rods are exactly what you expect, and while in the past they have been associated with little elderly women getting perms, they are highly prized and accepted by all. In the natural hair community they are used for amazing curly styles that last and give hair a uniform curl. They come in several different sizes and can be used under a hooded dryer or air-dried. This will allow your hair to have one texture instead of two, giving your hair the uniformity you seek until you are ready to cut the remaining straight hairs.

Twist outs and braid outs

Twist outs and braid outs are another popular transitioning style where hair is twisted or braided into small sections and unraveled leaving a uniform curl or wave pattern. While some may find them tedious others find them as a great protective style or excellent at masking different textures. When transitioning, grip your roots firmly but not too tightly to get a uniform twist or braid all the way to the ends. Use rollers or perm rods to curl the bottom straightened strands or you will have curly roots and wavy hairs on the bottom. Trial and error can guide you on which works better for uniformity in your hair curls.

Wearing styles that help hide the two textures

Buns, updos, ponytails, weaves, braids, or wigs are all viable styling options to help mask the two textures until you are ready to snip the rest of the straightened ends. Rocking hats, scarves, or big headbands give you a variety of styles to hide your varying textures too. Now, you always have the choice to cut it all off right now but know there are other possibilities. The options mentioned above will allow you to keep your hair at your desired length and still have amazing styles because transitioning can be for anyone who wants to go back to their hair’s true texture.