Search Results: Sabrina Perkins

Styling agents, especially gels, can be a curly girl’s best friend. Some prefer soft, touchable curls while others want firm hold. Finding the perfect product that allows your hair to be great is everything. Finding the perfect product that allows your hair to be great and saves a few coins is masterful, but we want that greatness without compromising our hair’s health. Curlyhead101 from Curly Q&A asked about a popular and unique styling gel.

Question

“Gorilla snot gel (alcohol”> ingredient

I really want to try out this gel! Its protein free but it has alcohol in it. And someone had commented on the gel and said that it breaks off their hair and their doctor told them not to use it. I have low porosity hair so I fear that it might make my hair break off. Should I risk it?”

Ingredients

Water (Aqua”>, Pvp, Alcohol, Peg-150, Sorbitol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Cyamopsis, Tetragonoloba (Guar”> Gum, Fragrance (Parfum”>, Yellow 10 (Ci 47005″>, Yellow 6 (Ci 15985″>, Green 8 (Ci 59040″>, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone

Answer

Not all alcohols are bad despite the negative rap they get. Fatty alcohols like lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or stearyl alcohol are usually derived from natural sources and have a higher amount of carbon content, which makes them oilier and used as softeners or emollients in skin and hair products. The short chain alcohols like SD alcohol, SD alcohol 40, or propyl alcohol have less carbon and evaporate quickly due to their low molecular weight. Alcohol is the third ingredient in this gel so we are not sure if it is a fatty alcohols, but we do have some information on some other ingredients in this product.

The Beauty Brains discusses what polyVinlyyrrolidone is and what it does. “PVP is used in stylers because it’s cheap and it gives a very hard crunchy hold. As long as there’s no moisture in the air. Because if there is, the PVP will absorb it and become sticky. Some people love the PVP crunch but it’s certainly NOT a state of the art styling aid.”

Beauty brains goes on to say how sorbitol is not all that great either, especially since PVP does not do well when exposed to water and that the sorbitol may only make matters worse. There are plenty of women who love Gorilla Snot Gel because it is inexpensive and gets the job done, but that might not be the same for all.

The bottom line

This relatively inexpensive product is a popular one. It seems to be an excellent gel with hold and many curly girls use it so give it a try. However, it is not the best styling gel to use nor one for touchable soft curls. We are not aware of what type of alcohol (good or bad”> is in it, but PVP is an ingredient to watch out for because it can make the hair sticky. With you having low porosity hair, you could potentially try this once to see how it goes, but if it does not work out then know you only wasted less than $5.

Buriti fruit oil is a natural wonder from the wetland regions of the Amazon as well as in Central Brazil. This common palm fruit plays an important role in the Amazon diet while also possessing a fabulous beauty oil. The yellow pulp is the prized possession in this palm, as it is naturally rich in oils. The fruit is gathered in Brazil between April and September and between October and January in the Peruvian Amazon. 

A potent beauty oil

Ground and then cold-pressed, buriti fruit oil is used in a wide range of beauty products from skin to hair conditioners. This beautiful golden-orange colored oil is rich on palmitic, linoleic, oleic, and arachidic acids. It also has tocopherols, carotenoids, and beta-carotene. The oil is naturally anti-inflammatory, which helps with calming redness and soothing sensitive skin and scalp conditions like eczema and psoriasis. It also has antioxidant properties that enhance cell longevity, because the oil protects the lipid membranes that surround skin cells. It also helps to rehydrate, rebuild, and restore skin cells allowing for more moisturized skin.

Benefits of buriti fruit oil for hair

This oil soothes dry and damaged hair and can be used in oil blends or as a hot oil treatment. The essential fatty acids in this treasured oil are excellent at maintaining elasticity and firmness in skin while producing collagen and elastin, which provide moisture for the scalp. The high presence of beta-carotenes in buriti fruit oil is helpful in healthy hair growth and the oleic acid is great for adding a natural sheen to hair.

Those same essential fatty acids are great for maintaining elasticity and revitalizing dry skin and hair. The smoothing nature of this oil makes it a good choice for fighting frizz. Simply add a few drops to hands and apply to help calm frizz while adding softness and a slight sheen. From shampoos to stylers, this oil is being used in hair products for several of its natural properties. If you prefer ready-made products, we have a list of a few possessing this lovely beauty oil below.

• Darcy’s Botanicals Curling Cream Gel 
• Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Hair Smoothie 
• Carol’s Daughter Tui Hair Smoothie
• Avlon Affirm MoisturRight Hair Repair Masque 
• Avlon Affirm MoisturRight Clarifying Shampoo 

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Frizz is not just a characteristic of curly and coily hair. While some feel wavies have it easy with their ability to detangle in a few minutes and quickly wash and go, some need help with staving off frizz, and no one knows that better than Marlene.Lars from Curly Q&A. 

Question

I have naturally wavy hair. My hair is usually frizzy after combing; curling iron tames it. I always let [my hair] air dry; but [it] still gets frizzy. I can use a curling iron to tame the frizz but would rather not. Is there a product I can use? Currently, I use cowash and a leave in conditioner on my hair.

Answer

I would recommend not using the curling iron to tame your frizz since you will be applying too much heat too often if you use that as your solution. Your hair can become heat damaged. There are less harmful ways to fight your frizz.

Skip the heat

While it seems like the curling iron is actually controlling the frizz, heat styling tools are drying to the hair and can actually create more frizz over time. Too much heat is not good for your waves so continue to air-dry, but skip the curling iron and try better choices for smoothing those waves.

Apply a styler to wet hair

After applying a leave-in conditioner to wet hair, use a styling product and air-dry. Serums like SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Finishing Elixir are great at smoothing the hair and fighting off frizz. Make sure to pay attention to the ends of your hair to keep them smooth and reduce flyaways. I love using it as a cocktail with my conditioner to help stave off frizz too. You can also consider plopping to expedite the dry time.

Try sulfate-free shampoos / use moisturizing shampoos

Fighting frizz starts before you style your hair. While sulfates are necessary for removing product buildup, they are too harsh for consistent use on wavy hair. Moisturizing shampoos that are sulfate-free, like Briogeo Rosarco Reparative Shampoo and Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Sulfate-Free Shampoo, help retain the hair’s moisture and deter frizz.

Try cowashing

While shampoo is essential, co-washing with a botanical conditioner or cleansing conditioner in-between cleansing is a great way to keep your hair moisturized. If you are using a cleansing conditioner, expect a gentle clean that will not strip your hair.

Leave the comb alone

Not sure when you are combing your hair but it sounds like it is disrupting the natural wave of your hair and creating frizz. Using a comb to detangle or distribute your deep conditioner is fine, but after that you should consider applying your other products with your fingers, also known as shingling. Make sure to leave hair alone after you have applied your leave-in conditioner and styling product. Allow your waves to dry undisturbed so not to disrupt the hair and create frizz.

What’s your go-to for fighting frizz on wavy hair?

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Hair color is a fun way to spruce up one’s look without getting a hair cut or new style. While many women color their strands on their own, this practice can lead to mishaps, making the enlistment of a hair color professional a good idea. Professional colorists have been trained in hair color processing, a highly involved, technical application of color to hair.

Even though professional colorists are skilled in the application and color alteration of hair, their cost per hour may not be within would-be client budgets. That’s when temporary color treatments, such as hair color rinses, become helpful. Temporary coloring allows for versatility without damaging or compromising the integrity of the hair.

What is are hair color rinses?

Hair color rinses fall under the temporary hair color classification. A rinse is applied after cleansing and conditioning. Hair rinses are used for several purposes like enhancing gray hair and toning down the colors from permanent dyes.

Why do black hair rinses leave a green cast?

A common problem some women face when using a black rinse is a green cast left on their hair that’s visible in the sunlight. While some women love fantasy colors, many are not happy when they were hoping for jet black, grey-less hair and get green hair after a few washes.

“It is absolutely possible that black semi-permanent or demi-permanent hair color, commonly referred to as a ‘rinse’, can leave a green cast on the hair,” according to Monae Everett, an American Board Certified hair colorist and celebrity stylist.

“This typically only happens when you are coloring your hair darker from blonde, especially light blonde to black,” Everett explained further, “The reason this happens is simple; blonde hair has a lot of yellow in it. Black has a lot of blue in it. Once combined, you can get the dreaded green cast. The best way to avoid this is to have a professional apply the color.”

Since all dark hair shades’ natural orange undertones are removed during the lightening process,  Everett recommends introducing orange dye into your temporary rinse process. This is especially important if you’re unable to get a professional colorist.

“Color your hair twice, using two different formulas,” Everett said, “The first hair color should have a deep orangey tone. Apply it to your wet hair, allow it to process, [and] then rinse it out. Don’t be surprised by your noticeably orange strands. The second hair color can be the desired goal of the black hair color. The blue undertones in the black hair color will neutralize (cancel out or balance”> the orange strands and give you true black hair color.”

Sounds like a lot of work, doesn’t it?

Well, that’s why going to a hair color professional may ensure you’re get the right color, not a by-product of the color wheel.

If you’re up to the challenge, follow Everett’s suggestions and make sure you have clean, healthy hair before the application.

Follow Monae Everett on YouTube.

Has your hair ever turned green after using black hair dye?

It’s been a straight-haired world for so long. Within the past ten years, our curls have been the center of attention. As more stylists participate in continuing education seminars and certification courses to gain more experience with textured hair, how can you find the right natural hair stylist for you? Domonique Mo, from Curly Q&A, wants to know more about what curly customers expect at the salon. 

Question

What questions [should I] ask during a consultation? My last perm was two years ago. I’ve done everything dealing [with] my hair, between my big chop to trims all [on] my own. I want a haircut… to give it a shape and maybe some color (without damaging my fine hair”>, but I don’t know where to even start.

Answer

While many stylists may want to jump on the curly girl bandwagon to expand their clientele, experience is essential. Textured hair is too fragile to leave to the novice. Too often we’ve allowed our stylists to do what they pleased, expecting them to not only be professional but educate us as well. I cringe at how misinformed I was about the chemicals and treatments used on my curls, and I refuse to ever be that naïve again.

6 Questions to Ask During a Consultation

1. What type of training have you received?

Make sure he or she is a licensed professional with experience in styling, coloring, and cutting your texture.

2. Do you have a preferred cutting technique?

There are quite a few out there like the Deva Cut, RI CI technique, or Ouidad Carve and Slice. Knowing what technique the stylist uses will allow you to determine what type of styles they may be able to achieve and their approach.

3. Do you have pictures of hairstyles or cuts you have performed?

Bring photos of someone with your texture and the style you want to achieve. Texture is important because everyone’s hair doesn’t behave the same way and the maintenance may be different.

4. What products do you use?

It’s a good idea to know what products the stylist uses. This way, you can express whether or not you have a preference. Curly haired clients rarely asked in the past. Now that we’re savvier natural hair care product consumers, we know what we do and don’t like.

5. Is the style I want a true possibility with the current state of my hair’s color, texture, and overall health?

Let’s not fool ourselves. Sometimes we want something that is not good for our curls. It’s okay to want the world. However, you need a stylist who will be honest and guide you to the best options that complement your face, skin tone, and lifestyle. Be open to the the stylist’s suggestions, as well.

Remember to consider the current state of your hair. If your curls are damaged, then permanent color may not be the best option; getting a haircut may be the only way to save your curls. This is why consultations and open, honest communication with a potential stylist is so important.

6. Do you prices vary based on length and texture?

Never skip this question. Stylists should not charge more for longer hair or tighter textures.

Be Upfront and Clear About What You Want

There’s nothing wrong with being assertive. If you absolutely want your hair cut on dry hair and your stylist is uncomfortable or inexperienced doing that, then you need to find another stylist. I am not saying you or I know more than the professionals, but you should never feel like you don’t have a say in your service. Be upfront with what you want. Feel free to ask as many questions as needed in order to to determine if this styling session and salon is a good fit for you.

If You Get a Bad Vibe, Leave!

Go with your gut, or first mind. If you feel uncomfortable or that the stylist is not for you, keep it moving.

Watch

Not everyone has the gift of hairstyling. Speaking from experience, I can braid hair and that’s about it. I have tried braid-out and twist-outs and failed miserably. I have even tried styling with a turban and let’s just say I should be thoroughly ashamed of calling myself a hair blogger. Needless to say, I am style-challenged and usually rock a wash and go since I’m good at it. I can do a few other styles that are pretty simple and look great, so when I saw Brandiga26 from Curly Q&A ask about what to do with her afro, I had to respond.

Question

I don’t want [to] keep putting my hair in [an] afro. Can you help me? What style can I do in my hair? I do the same afro but I can’t braid. Can you help me pick [a] style? I don’t know what to do. Can leaving your hair out [cause] break[age] and dry your hair? Help me.

Answer

Some feel that regularly wearing your hair loose is not as healthy as keeping it protected. I balk at that way of thinking. As a wash and go curly girl for most of the time, I know hair can be healthy and retain length when worn loose. You do not have to wear your hair out or in an afro all the time, and even if you are style-challenged, you can still rock simple and beautiful styles.

Buns

Low buns, high buns, side buns, and even messy buns are great ways to change up a style without much effort. They are quick styles that can be casual or formal on any length. Buns can be curly or not and they can be jazzed up with scarves, headbands, or even flowers.

What I truly love about buns is how it is a great style to use on old hair that was styled for something else like an afro. CaribBeauty shares how she creates stunning loose/messy low buns that be dressed down or up according to your taste or mood.

Bantu Knots

Bantu knots are not just for creating a leave-out style and if you don’t believe me, then simply ask Dej Loaf or Blac Chyna who have both rocked gorgeous Bantu knots. While simple to create and actually a protective style the knots themselves are easy to install. If this style is new to you, check out ShineStruck’s tutorial for easy Bantu knots, even on short hair.

What simple styles do you like to create?

Too often we hear folks telling us to not do this and not do that and often it is never harmful to your hair. Despite that, some curly girl know-it-alls who have only their hair in mind still feel the need to judge. Well, no judgment here. Know that it is ok to follow the rules but sometimes the rules just do not apply to your curls. Mth333 has already figured that out but despite her new way of dealing with her hair, she’s had some hiccups and asked for help in Curly Q&A.

Question

[I am] using conditioner as styler. My hairdresser taught me to leave my conditioner and smooth my hair with it (use it as styler”>, but I noticed that I started scratching my scalp a lot. Why? I use deva curl conditioner.

Answer

Using a conditioner (such as a leave-in conditioner or a daily conditioner”> as a styler is used by many curlies. My sister and daughter do it all the time. The conditioner does define my curls better than any styler and keeps them moisturized after I’ve sealed with an oil. I add gel to give me second and third day hair, as it keeps my curls from frizzing. The key to this method working is application and conditioner. Here are some tips that may help you with your itchy scalp.

You may need one cleansing conditioner and one leave-in conditioner

The ingredient list with the DevaCurl line is awesome but that does not mean it will work for everyone’s hair. We are all unique with special needs for our hair and scalp, and while all DevaCurl conditioners are for cleansing and conditioning they can be applied to stay in after cleansing and rinsing. Maybe you need a different conditioner to stay in after cleansing since something in the DevaCurl conditioner may be affecting your scalp. Now, the conditioner you choose to use in leave-in conditioner does not need to be a traditional leave-in conditioner, but it should have different ingredients from the DevaCurl to try and narrow down what’s bothering your scalp.

Try not to put it on your scalp

If you love this conditioner and it works for you other than the itchy scalp then do not apply it to your scalp. Hair conditioners can contribute to buildup so steer clear of your. You may be creating buildup on your scalp when you apply it, so make sure to leave 1-2 in. of space from the scalp.

Trial and error will be your guide

It took years for me to find out which rinse-out conditioners work wonders for me. I‘ve tried a few and ended up loving SheaMoisture. First, I was using the SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner and loved it until they created the SheaMoisture Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration Conditioner. I’ve been using that ever since and love it as my leave-in. I do not keep it off my scalp because I haven’t had any issues with it making my scalp itch. On second and third day hair I merely spritz my hair with my distilled water and lavender oil mix and fluff and I have been leaving a daily conditioner in my hair for over two years with no issues to date and have even controlled a nasty dandruff problem using this method too.

Using a rinse out conditioner as a leave-in depends on the type of conditioner (I would advise a botanical one”> and your scalp and hair preference. If these tips help with our itchy scalp, then you are well onto your way to healthy and happy hair.

Do you use a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner as your styler and if so which ones?

Whether it is considered ugly, unprofessional, or unacceptable, the perception of textured hair has always been viewed as inferior against European standards of beauty. Despite the negativity, the natural hair movement is prospering due to women and girls embracing self-love and acceptance, and those who support them in their journey. Recently, Alexondra Purnomo, a first-grade teacher in a predominately white Italian school in Italy, shared a heart-warming account on Facebook of how one small gesture lead to a special outcome for one child. 

The Sasha Bun

“My school is predominately Italian kids. Probably more than 95%. I have a new(er”> student who is black in one of my classes. This week she came to school without braids. Some of the kids made fun of her for her short hair so she started wearing a (winter!”> hat to school and refused to take it off. Today, together with the Italian teacher Veruska Meloni, we talked about being different and it not mattering. Whether we are short, tall, light skinned, dark skinned, blond, brunette, with or without glasses, boy, girl, braid, bun, sneakers, shoes…This student finally took her hat off today. She had a little bun on the top of her head. The other teacher and I both put our hair in buns on the top of our heads saying it was the “Sasha bun.” Then one by one, all of the girls (and boys!”> wanted their hair in a ‘Sasha bun.’ We were able to come together as a class and bring a smile to Sasha’s face after a long, tough week. It gave me chills to see 19 kids come together to help one fellow student. Grazie mille a Veruska! [Many thanks to Veruska!] TUTTI UGUALI [ALL EQUAL] TUTTI DIVERSI [ALL DIFFERENT]” –Alexondra Purnomo 

Something as simple as embracing natural hair made a statement that forever changed those children. She did not scold the children and single out Sasha, but rather created an environment where Sasha was praised for her individuality. I love how the teacher handled this. There is nothing wrong with differences and they should be celebrated and not overlooked or made to conform. This teacher did more than make one little girl feel good about herself and her hair; she made an entire classroom of future adults love their classmate’s individuality and in turn begin to accept everyone’s uniqueness.

We need more people like Alexondra Purnomo, taking a problematic situation that could have scarred a child and turning it into a beautiful acceptance of all. All it took was creative positivity.

Wash days would not be so bad if the detangling was not a part of it. Heck, life wouldn’t be so bad if detangling wasn’t a part of it. All kidding aside, detangling whether hated or loved is essential in any curly hair care routine. While some have harder times than others, we all know the time-consuming detangling can be despite being necessary and essential to healthy hair care. Detangling can be harsh and counter-productive if not done correctly, so finding sound ways to do it and successfully often takes more than just skill. It takes a tool. 

A detangling brush is just like it sounds. A brush created to detangle your strands. While many opt for finger detangling (me included”> it is a tedious task that some find too time-consuming especially if you are blessed with lots of tangles. Detangling brushes actually lessen detangling sessions but know that you need the right brush (that depends on your needs, hair and price level”> and the correct tips to make sure that brush and your hair become friends. Here are some tips on making your detangling brush an ally in your detangling sessions and to reduce as much breakage as possible when using one.

Get the right brush

Yes, the right brush is solving half the problem of detangling. Just as there are different products for hair types or conditions, there are specific brushes that work better for certain types of curls, waves, and coils. From flexible bristles to comfortable handles, using the right brush that gives you an advantage to brushing effectively and gently is the best way to damage less and detangle quicker. I prefer the horse hair brush, similar to the Felicia Leatherwood brush, as it has flexible and unattached comb rows that allow my hair to glide through easier than other brushes. When I did detangle with a brush, it is the only one I use, but what may be ideal for me is not the case for everyone. Popular ones are the Tangle Teezer, the Denman brush, or even the Michel Mercier Ultimate Detangling Brush.

Enlist the help of oils or detangling products

No one says the brush needs to do all the work by itself. There are reasons many opt for using oils, conditioners, or detangling products to aid in adding slip and removing the tangles easily. Products give the hair slip and reduce friction for the brush, allowing for less damage and more effortless follow-through.

Detangle in sections

This is actually ideal for any detangling method, as working with sections allow for less challenges. Brushing your hair, especially long and dense hair, without sectioning makes for missing tangles. Working in smaller sections, like 4-8, gives better control of the brush and hair.

Finger detangle first

Sounds like a lot of work? Well, you will be surprised how effective brush detangling becomes once you have finger detangled first. This allows for you to feel out the big tangles and knots prior to trying to yank through them with a brush. Finding the big ones prior with your fingers and loosening them allows for less damage from the brush if it comes across a big tangle.

Start From the Ends and Brush Upwards

Never start from the roots when detangling. Always start from the bottom and work your way up the hair shaft to minimize breakage. Work your way up inch by inch until the entire section is detangled.

Go slow

Our hair loves to curl around itself. Detangling should never be rushed and it most certainly should not be done when you are short on time. I just wait an extra day if too tired or if have little time to do it correctly. Moving too fast leads to ripping and breakage. Take your time and relax.

The name of the curly hair game is moisturizing. While our hair needs to be strong, keeping it moisturized is just as important. With coily, curly, and wavy hair, it is harder for sebum to travel from the scalp to the ends. While our strands crave moisture, it seems the curly hair market is shifting to creating more leave-in conditioners. What gives? If this is the new trend, it would make sense to learn more. 

What are hair moisturizers?

Moisture is a property of water, often in trace amounts and it refers to the amount of water vapor present. Water is the number one moisturizer, as it increases our hair’s pliability and elasticity, staving off dryness and breakage. Moisturizers are water-based to provide hydration, and despite what many may think, oils do not moisturize the hair. Oils merely seal moisture in, which makes them great for applying after using a moisturizer. Moisturizers can be used on wet or dry hair and its main purpose is to attract moisture and retain it.

What is a leave-in conditioner?

Traditional leave-in conditioners are formulated with strengthening properties like ceramides and hydrolyzed proteins to temporarily repair the hair’s cuticle; there are some that are protein-free.  It is the lightest conditioner in comparison to a daily conditioner or deep conditioner and aids in elasticity, hydration, and manageability. Unlike daily conditioners and deep conditioners, leave-in conditioners are not meant to be rinsed off and can replace daily conditioners for convenience purposes. They are also used to refresh dry hair in between wash sessions.

Why are moisturizers losing space on the shelves?

Moisturizers and leave-ins, although sometimes similar, have different focuses. One would think that they both would be useful and popular but in recent years we are seeing more leave-in conditioners. Personally, I rarely use a moisturizer. Once I implemented the curly girl method, a leave-in conditioner was all I needed to keep my hair moisturized. I use them on wet hair and even if my hair is dry. I also spritz my hair with my lavender and water mix before applying the leave-in or simply jump in the shower and saturate my hair.

Conclusion

Since damage is cumulative and more curlies are experimenting with their texture like heat styling, color, and protective styling, using products that contains hydrating and reparative properties makes sense. Kill two birds with one stone. If you are more protein-sensitive, then maybe moisturizers are best suited for your strands. Brands know we need moisture so they are pumping water and humectants into every product, which is great. Regimens are being creating with moisture-rich cleansers, conditioners, and even stylers to combat dryness in every step. It seems like hair moisturizer are slowly losing its place in our regimens for products with dual purposes like leave-in conditioners.

Do you use a hair moisturizer? Why or why not?

We all want healthy hair. We want beautiful hair that grows long and strong. Is all that possible? It sure is, but sometimes we find ourselves second-guessing our methods to hair greatness and what seems like the perfect regimen is questioned when something new comes out promising longer, stronger, and even more beautiful hair than you already have. Sonja.William wrote in to the Curly Q&A with such a dilemma. 

Question

I use As I Am Curl Defining Jelly. Is this a good product for my hair? I have 3c hair to 4A hair. I have been using As I Am Curl Defining Jelly to help define my curls, along with the curl defining twist cream. I need to know if this is a good product for my hair. It seems to be working my hair is moisturized and it looks really nice. My Curls are very defined. I shampoo my hair with Argan Oil and I use a goat milk conditioner. I just want to know if these products are okay for my hair. Since I’ve been using these products my hair has grown.

Answer

Your hair seems happy and thriving. You are cleansing, conditioning, and defining your curls. I too use a curl defining jelly and have great results. The problem you feel you have is being answered already by your own hair. Confirmation of doing right by your hair has to come from your hair.

We need to listen to our hair to see if a product or regimen is working. Your hair tells you when it needs something. The signs will be there and often we ignore them but just as often we feel the need confirmation that what we are doing is right. It is time to let ourselves off the hook and allowing yourself to feel good about taking care of your hair. We see tons of information, products, techniques, ideas, and hair growth tips, but when do you just stop and allow yourself to know you are doing just fine?

Reading the signs of healthy hair is what allows you to know you are OK and need not change up your regimen unless you want to. Even when trying something new, how do you figure if it is working? Of course you need to give any product or regimen time to work and that can be anywhere from days to weeks, but what if all the stars are aligned and your hair is healthy? It is time to admit you are doing a great job and to give yourself a break.

What to look for to see if hair is not healthy?

• Breakage 
• Severe dryness
• Losing more than 50 to 100 hairs a day
• Thinning hair or bald patches

These are some telltale signs that hair is not healthy, but if your hair is not falling under any of those categories you are most likely in a good place. Worry less about what others say about a product and what it will do for your hair and more about what your hair needs through the ingredients it prefers and the temperament of your strands.

Do you find yourself second-guessing what you put on your hair even if it’s healthy? 

Not every product was designed for you. It is as simple as that. We are all unique and despite having the same porosity, density, or curl type, there are other factors that come into play on finding the right products for you. Genetics, climate, or even allergies makes for differences in hair conditions, types, and needs. That is why having so many choices in hair care products is a great thing for curly, coily, and wavy ladies. It also makes for questions some may have like Nyla brought to our attention in our Curly Q&A section.  

Question

Why do shampoos and conditioners make my hair hard? Every time I wash my hair it gets hard. I know it’s the shampoo and conditioner because my hair is soft before I put shampoo and conditioner in. It’s also soft when I rinse it out. Even deep conditioners make my hair hard. So far I have used Pantene and Organix shampoos & conditioners and the deep conditioners I’ve used are Aussie 3 Minute Miracle, SheaMoisture Deep Treatment Masque (the original one “>, and Africa’s Best Hair Mayonnaise. I think my hair is protein sensitive too. To keep my hair moisturized I spray it with water and seal with a shea butter mix. The mix is the only thing that makes my hair shiny, soft, and kind of defined. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do?

Answer

There can be several ingredients in a product that make for hard deposits on our hair. The best way to find out why a product will work well or poorly is to check out the ingredient list and good ole trial and error. I know you tire of that answer but what may work for someone else may or may not work well for you. Giving it the old college try is the best solution, but like in Nyla’s case…what if a lot of different types of products are not working? Here are some tips to help with that.

You may need to do more DIY recipes

You mentioned your hair responds very well to your own DIY water and shea butter mix. You may be on your way to becoming a master DIY mixtress, and since you did well with that mix, others may be soon to follow. DIY mixing can be less expensive than products you can purchase and allows for you to know exactly what you are putting in your hair. Many curly girls prefer creating their own hair products for those very reasons and others just love whipping up new items to try. Even if you do not fully embrace the DIY route, just know there are cleansers like shampoo bars and clay washes that are natural and simple to use if you do not want a commercial shampoos. That goes for conditioners and stylers too. Less is more for many curly girls who opt for simpler products for their hair care.

Remove a few ingredients

Some of the products you mentioned may have silicones or proteins and both can be troublesome for many curly girls with low porosity hair or strands that are sensitive to product buildup. Check the ingredient list in your products and if they do have silicones or proteins, then steer clear of those two items for a few days (or weeks”> to see how your hair responds without them. If you notice a huge difference (in a good way”>, then you know those two ingredients do not agree with your hair. Now, this is a great way to determine what works and what doesn’t, so remove an ingredient from your hair care and see if it makes any kind of difference and go from there. Process of elimination will yield a better understanding of what your hair needs.

Try more natural ingredients and/or brands

I am a huge proponent of natural brands or natural ingredients. My hair responds well to them and it sound like yours may as well. Now, of course the DIY route will allow you to use natural ingredients but many brands like SheaMoisture or Avalon Organics use a lot of natural ingredients and have sulfate, parabens, and protein-free products and collections worth trying. They are far from alone so do a little homework and see if more natural ingredients will help to soften those strands, as it may be product buildup creating that hard exterior.

Read more: You are Feeling Texture, Not Dryness

The universal standard of beauty has been one-sided since forever. A European look of fair skin and straight hair has haunted women who were not in that group. While completely untrue, women of color have been growingly balking at this narrow and short-sided standard of beauty. It is hurtful, detrimental, and unhealthy to perpetuate such a limited view of beauty. While it warps the psyche of many a people of color, it symbolizes the limitations this world has on diversity within the beauty world. As if we needed a reminder, this world is not fair, perfect, or lovely most of the time, but we can make it better. 

SheaMoisture is taking on this limited perception of beauty by attacking the discrimination we see every day in the beauty aisles of every major store. Women of color having to find the ethnic section for beauty products—separate from the beauty aisle—perpetuate the narrow ideal of beauty in our society.

SheaMoisture has been fighting this exclusion for years and recently created a TV commercial and a national awareness campaign called #BreakingTheWalls that highlights the struggles women of color face every time they have to walk away from the beauty aisle to find their own beauty products. Richelieu Dennis, founder and CEO of Sundial Brands, shares why this campaign is necessary: “I have often said over the last 20 years that the beauty aisle is the last place in America where segregation is still legal, and separating ‘beauty’ from ‘ethnic’ has only served to further perpetuate narrow standards of what is considered beautiful in our industry and our society—which is why we began leading the efforts to break down those walls.”

I clearly remember growing up and knowing I would have to find the ethnic section—usually just two or three shelves—for my hair care needs. It was humiliating and isolating to never find what I use for my hair in the beauty aisle. This awareness campaign opens real wounds concerning the lack of inclusion women of color feel ostracized. This is one of the last few places to find blatant segregation in product placement in retail stores, and while women of color have suffered in silence, SheaMoisture is breaking down the real walls of exclusion to topple the narrow perception of beauty to include all women.

At NaturallyCurly we were thrilled to see this campaign launch because “since NaturallyCurly.com was founded 18 years ago, we’ve had the philosophy that texture transcends ethnicity” says Michelle Breyer, President and Co-Founder of NaturallyCurly, “I’ve engaged in a lot of debates over the years about this topic, but believe that the consumer – and brand – benefits when the haircare aisles aren’t defined by ethnicity.” Dennis also adds, “This movement is about so much more than selling shampoo, lotion, or cosmetics. We’re advancing a mission and vision to change the social dialogue about how we’re looking at beauty as a society and how those archaic structures and views are debilitating to the establishment of new and more inclusive ways of viewing beauty – whether in the images we see or in the aisles that divide…With SheaMoisture, we have built a successful brand by recognizing that beauty comes in every hair type, skin tone, shade, and feature and by honoring the natural beauty of every woman with natural products that address her individual needs and empower her to celebrate her unique journey.”

With YouTubers like MahoganyCurls, Naptural85, SunKissAlba, and others taking part in the commercial and behind the scenes videos, we see the problem taken head on, addressed, and then shattered by the very symbolic and real approach to breaking down the segregated walls of beauty norms. It is a powerful voice in a world where silent acceptance is no longer tolerated and action takes over and wins.”

Watch the video below to see how this impactful message embraces a universal beauty that is long overdue.

SheaMoisture #BreakTheWalls commercial

Richelieu Dennis, founder and CEO of Sundial Brands and Whitney (Naptural85″> vlogger on The Real discussing #BreaktheWalls Campaign

Say what you want but ombre is not going anywhere. This trend is taking on more looks with bolder colors. It’s fun and a great change as we walk into summer. How to do it? Well, there is more than one way to try this look and it is easier than one would think. Ombre is gradually adding whatever hair color you want to the ends (or even the middle and ends”> of your hair. It can be stark or a gradient with any color. There also various method of application or at least that’s what Brandiga26 wanted to know when she asked about it in our Curly Q&A.

Question

I want to dye my hair at the ends brown ombre or honey blond color. I don’t want to bleach it but I want know what to do can you give tips or ideas what to do or use?

Answer

You do not have to bleach your hair to get the ombre look. There are four major ways to get ombre hair and you can do most inexpensively.

Seek a color professional

This is the ideal way to get exactly what you want with minimal damage especially if bleaching is necessary. Now, understand that anytime you bleach your hair there will be damage but seeking the help of a professional will ensure the application is done correctly and they should give you pointers on how to care for your hair afterward. Also know that there are specific products for color-treated or bleached hair like shampoos and conditioners that are necessary, as they have extra nutrients and moisturizers to keep hair as healthy as possible.

Take the temporary route

This is great way to see if you will like going ombre or not without completely committing to it. Whether you choose eye shadows, chalk, or even temporary dyes, like Jerome or Manic Panic, this will allow you to give it a try with minimal price and commitment. Simply brush the color of your choosing on your ends (how high to go up is completely up to you”> and follow the instructions on the product. Since the color is temporary you can go as wild as you please, but make sure you are not applying temporary color to hair with split or damaged ends, as it may stay in longer than you prefer or permanently dye the hair. Read the instructions fully before using.

Ombre kit

They actually have ombre hair kits in stores that will guide you to the desired ombre you are craving. L’Oreal Feria Ombré Hair Color is a very popular line, but Revlon has one too called Revlon Color Effects Ombre. Women are having success with these kits so this step-by-step option is great if this is your first time or if you are unsure about the process.

Watch Andrea Garcia use the L’Oreal Paris Feria Wild Ombre Kit

Got a brush?

You can just wing it with some permanent dye and simply use a dye brush on the ends where you want the color. Here’s a video that shows you exactly how to do it with regular hair dye and a brush.

How to Dye your hair Ombre

For a polished finish, consider getting a professional trim.

So, are you ready to give it a try or have you done the DIY Ombre look already? 

With the spirit of saving money, one cannot be too thrifty when it comes to hair care. While we want the very best at the lowest price, curly girls have been lucky in recent years, as we have more brands to choose from and that drives down price. No one wants a ton of bad products layered on their hair and creating frizz or damage, so we make sure to check ingredients for what we love, hate, and downright steer clear of. For many of us there are specific ingredients we are sensitive to. Manufactures are taking heed to common allergies like nuts, soy, and even protein, and Cilinhamix from Curly Q&A asked about one such product. 

Question

Hi, everyone! I have medium to high porosity, thick and protein sensitive hair. I do use a little shampoo mainly in my roots every 2-3 days, otherwise my hair gets weighed down. Any suggestions of a CG friendly gentle, protein and sulfate free shampoo to use this often? Thanks!

Answer

We are lucky to have brands willing to take a step further and create products to accommodate all hair types, porosities, and allergies. Know that cleansing too often can be drying for your hair. An alternative to shampooing is to occasionally rinse with water and opt for a botanical or cleansing conditioner instead. This will help keep hair moisturized without buildup. If you do prefer to cleanse with shampoo every couple of days, here is a list of sulfate-free and protein-free shampoos that are Curly Girl (CG method”> friendly and gentle enough to use regularly.

Aunt Jackie’s Curls & Coils Oh So Clean! Moisturizing & Softening Shampoo 

No sulfates or proteins, but this moisturizing and softening shampoo has tons of goodness including water, coconut, and shea butter. A gentle yet hard-working shampoo for extra dry hair in need of moisture and softness.

Bee Mine Botanical Moisturizing Shampoo 

No silicones, sulfates, or proteins in Bee Mine Botanical Moisturizing Shampoo. Just water, surfactant blend, calendula, lemongrass, rosemary, and lavender extract bring together a formula that removes residue without removing moisture.

EDEN BodyWorks Coconut Shea All Natural Moisture Shampoo

This cruelty, silicone, sulfate, and protein-free shampoo from EDEN BodyWorks is a mild cleanser that restores the much needed moisture to your strands.

EDEN BodyWorks Peppermint Tea Tree Shampoo

This tea tree formula is formulated to treat dry, flaky scalps while removing all traces of dirt, oil, and buildup. No silicones, sulfates, or proteins but loads of pure botanicals to clean effectively and gently.

Kinky-Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo 

No parabens, sulfates, proteins, or silicones in this hardworking and moisturizing shampoo. With the power of mandarin orange extract and sea kelp, the proper moisture balance will be restored along with a cleaner scalp and hair.

SheaMoisture African Black Soap Deep Cleansing Shampoo

Get deep cleansed hair from SheaMoisture African Black Soap Deep Cleansing Shampoo. Ideal for dandruff or irritated scalps that is dry, itchy, and flaky. Plantain enzymes help to calm the irritation while tea tree oil removes all buildup. No sulfates, parabens, or proteins to worry about.

More protein-free products

• 10 Deep Conditioners for Protein Sensitive Hair
• Avoid Protein Overdose with Protein-free Moisturizers
• 9 Protein-free Leave-in Conditioners

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It is just too easy to write off all silicones as bad without delving into what they consist of and learning their differences, strengths, weaknesses, and composition. There are a lot of ingredients that allow for more manageable hair but may not necessarily be great for our curls. While we crave and desire moisture and detangling properties in products, we must make sure our hair will not suffer in the process. It is a fine line to walk when it comes to being a curly girl and having healthy hair. 

There are good and bad silicones for hair

The main objective of a silicone for hair care products is to seal and protect the hair. They create a barrier around the hair strand that keeps moisture in and the elements out. This barrier is soft and has slip, making silicones great detanglers and a heat protectant. The barrier helps hair from being damaged by heat styling tools like curling irons, wands, and flat irons, but just like silicones are great for hair, they also have a downside. Several kinds of silicones (non-water soluble”> create buildup on the hair strands and scalp when not washed regularly.

Why do curly girls avoid silicones?

The only way to remove silicones is by using shampoos with sulfates or clarifying shampoos, and many curly girls steer clear of those types of cleansers as they can be harsh on our fragile and moisture-deprived strands, especially when used too often. Using a water-soluble silicone is best for curly strands because water-soluble silicones can be removed just with water or cleansing conditioners but harsher ingredients are needed for the water insoluble silicones. Dimethiconol however is water insoluble.

Read more: Silicones for Curly Hair: The Good, the Bad, & the Ugly

What is Dimethiconol?

Dimethiconol is a hydroxylated synthetic silicone oil that resembles dimethicone and  provides a non-greasy lubricant that adds shine and softness. It is an anti-foaming agent that has the unique fluidity composition of spreading easily and creating a mild protective barrier to the individual hair strands and skin, helping to fill in fine lines and wrinkles on the face and giving it a temporarily plump look.

Common uses

• Conditioners
• Shampoos
• Cosmetic creams
• Lotions
• Suntan products
• Bath soaps
• Lipsticks

Dimethicone vs. Dimethiconol

According to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, both of these two polymers often get mistaken for one another, because they are essentially equivalent in their performance in regard to the amount of deposition and when coming hair wet. The differences lie in their performance in other instances occurs, because dimethiconol has an increased molecular weight and has a different end group with hydroxyl (-OH”> groups and most of those groups contain alcohols. Despite those differences they are very similar.

Pros

This is an excellent skin and hair conditioning silicone that works as a non-greasy emollient. Great for detangling strands with its subtle gloss and softness that helps reduce friction. It is often used instead of standard silicones because of its less greasy feel despite being a heavier silicone and used in conjunction with lighter silicones that help deliver ingredients to the hair like cyclopentasiloxane. Dimethiconol is also great in reducing the effects of the weather elements that cause frizz.

Cons

Dimethiconol is a non-water-soluble silicone that can buildup easily if not removed regularly clarifying shampoos or cleansers formulated with sulfates. If you apply products regularly and do not shampoo often, then using products with this silicone may not be ideal for you.

The Takeaway

Using products with dimethiconol sparingly would be a great idea, but do not overload on them and to remember how to successfully remove them regularly. I will use a product with dimethiconol when I want that extra shine, softness, and smoothness, but I know I can use it once, maybe twice, and will wash with shampoo afterwards. Here are some popular products that use dimethiconol.

Products with dimethiconol

• Kerastase Nutritive Oleo-Relax, Smoothing Controlling Care 
• Pureology Hydrate Condition 
• Smooth ‘n Shine Polishing Instant Repair Hair Polisher, Extra Strength 
• Dove Heat Defense Therapy – Heat Activated Protect & Shine Mist 
• Suave Aloe Vera and Ginseng Conditioner

Wigs are big business and a great way to alter your style without altering your hair. They are also a protective style as your own hair is protected under the wig from daily manipulation and breakage. It is also the perfect way to see if you like a particular style before fully committing to it. Now, there are a range of prices when it comes to wigs and while some prefer high end, there are some rather great ones that are reasonable. How much you choose to spend on one is completely up to the wearer and often one decides on how often they will be wearing one to determine how much to spend. 

Wearing a wig requires more than just buying one and wearing it. You have to figure out how to wear it. Unless you are bald or have a short afro, you have to figure out what to do with your hair under the wig. There is more to it than just brushing your hair to back, because simply gathering hair under the wig can cause breakage. Hair needs to be protected under the wig and that requires planning and a proper regimen for maintenance. Here are the best ways to wear your hair while under a wig.

Braids

Having hair in braids (your own hair”> is one of the three ideal ways to wear your hair under the wig. While not at flat as other styles it allows for hair to be protected and easier for some women to maintain. It also allows for easier access to the scalp for cleansing and moisturizing. Simply place hair in small braids to minimize lumps or bumps under the wig.

Cornrows

This is the most common style to wear your hair under the wig and allows for a flatter surface than braided hair. It does however leave only limited access to the scalp, but hair is protected and less likely to be bulky or lumpy under the wig. Simply divide hair into small rows from front to back and braid down the length of your head.

Twists or flat twists

These are the easiest styles to wear under a wig but they are also the least favorite. While easy to create they will frizz and tangle faster than braids and cornrows, but remember to make them small so they will not leave lumps under the wig.

Things to remember when wearing a wig

• Wear a silk wig liner – The cap protects the hair from the wig and keeps your hair in place while wearing the wig. 
• Moisturize and allow your scalp to get air – wearing a wig does not mean your hair is completely protected and therefore allowed to be neglected. It must be moisturized prior to wearing a wig. Remember to moisturize before going to bed if your hair feels dry and never sleep with a wig.
• Never place a wig on a wet head – That is just a breeding ground for bacteria. Hair should always be completely dry before wearing a wig. 
• Clean and condition your hair and scalp regularly – Hair and scalp needs regularly cleansing to remove the excess sebum and even dirt. Sweat and moisturizers can be build up and need to be removed. Take down the twists, braids, or cornrows to shampoo, deep conditioner, moisturize, and redo a fresh set of braids, twists, or cornrows. This will ensure your hair and scalp stay clean and moisturized so your hair does not because brittle and break.

Watch

Heat is not the only thing that can damage hair. Damage can occur from various forms and from the very things we do to care for our curls. It can be hard to identify the cause, but it is necessary to finding the solution. DomiCurls from Curly Q&A inquired about hair damage to the top of her hair, which is something many tend to suffer from.

Question

Why do I have damaged hair when I hardly straighten it? I only sometimes straighten the top but most of my top layers are damaged even though I don’t straighten them.

Answer

Sometimes we make assumptions about our hair damage, but making an honest assessment about what we were or are doing is the only way to find out what’s going on. Damage can occur for many reasons, so looking at what you are doing to your hair will answer this question for you.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but heat damage can happen the very first time you use direct heat.

3 Ways you might be damaging your hair

1. Heat styling

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but heat damage can happen the very first time you use direct heat. It can even occur with a heat protectant. The heat appliance can be too hot. Other problems some face is using heat styling options too often or keeping the tool on the hair too long. If you smell burning hair when applying heat, that is your hair not the products.

How hot should your heat tool be?

We recommend using the lowest possible heat setting that can work for your hair while passing the flat iron over your hair just once or twice. The experts at Folica recommend customizing the temperature of your flat iron based on your hair type. To take this one step further, they also recommend using “different temperatures on different parts of your hair: cooler near your face where hair is fine and hotter wherever your hair is thickest and strongest.”

• Coarse or thick hair: 380°F and above
• Wavy or curly hair: 350°F – 370°F
• Medium thickness or straight-ish hair: 330°F – 350°F
• Thin hair: 300°F – 330°F
• Fragile or fine hair: 240°F – 300°F
• Synthetic hair lowest available setting

Heat damage is irreversible but conditioning treatments and trims will help in the meantime if you are not ready to chop it all off as a result. Heat damaged hair can be masked by using perm rods, pin curls, or twisting to mirror the non-heat damaged areas. Roller sets allow for uniform curls too.

2. Hair color

Many of us color our hair, and even though this is a damaging process, we do not realize the damage can be lasting. If we do not care for our hair properly after a permanent color treatment, weakened hair from the color (especially bleaching”> will only become increasingly dry and prone to breakage. There are special hair products for color-treated hair because they have extra conditioners, proteins, and moisturizers to help get the hair back into a healthy state.

3. A protein-moisture imbalance

Textured hair needs proper protein-moisture balance. If your hair is limp and lifeless it needs protein. If it is dry, brittle, and hard it needs moisture. Keeping hair in a level balance between protein and moisture allow for healthy hair that combats breakage.

Read more: Do You Over Moisturize Your Hair? Understanding Hygral Fatigue 

4. Neglecting trims

Trims are a necessary evil that many women put off because they want to retain length, but those ends are the oldest hair with the most manipulation and when they are ready to go they need to be gone! Holding onto raggedy, brittle ends can create split ends and frizz and make your hair look bad. Trimming allows for better styling and less knots.

Fix the problem

While you cannot restore damaged hair to its virgin, healthy state, there are things you can do to minimize further damage and give your hair a healthier appearance. When your hair is damaged, reassess your regimen, steer clear of heat and chemical treatments, get a trim or haircut, and deep condition after every wash. Make sure you are keeping hair moisturized and sealed. Thoroughly apply moisturizing products on your hair, concentrating on your ends and damaged areas. You should be seeing a difference in no time.

Read more: 3 Kinds of Damage that Loosen Your Curl