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Despite their purpose, protective styles can do damage like anything else. Quite often damage can occur as a result of neglect. One of our readers, Yvonne21 from Curly Q&A, recently inquired about coming out of a protective style with dry hair.
Question
What am I doing wrong? I last relaxed my hair in 2009. My hair is just below shoulder length now. But I recently put it in a box braid protective hair style. And when I took it out my hair is completely unmanageable. It’s fizzy, very dry and my curl structure seems damaged.
Answer
It can be a few things that are causing your frizz, dryness, and damage. How were you caring for your hair while it was in box braids? Hair in box braids still needs nurturing. Also, after removing extensions your hair will need some extra TLC and a break before another installation. We will share how to care for protective styled hair, what to do after removal, and what you can do if you notice damage.
How to care for hair while in box braids
Textured hair is delicate and requires a lot of care, and too often when we rock a protective style we assume it is protected so all the good practices get thrown out the window.
Cover up at night
Covering your hair at night is still necessary, especially with box braids so either sleeping on a satin pillowcase or throwing on a stain bonnet are essential at night. It not only protects your hair, but it also keeps those edges looking fresh.
Clean & moisturize your scalp
Maintaining a clean scalp and moisturizing regularly are essential. Whether cleaning your scalp with dry shampoo or using regular shampoo, do not assume the style will suffice for cleaning especially if you are spraying your hair and braids to keep them moisturized. You can cause buildup and clog your scalp’s pores. Cleaning regularly is still necessary.
Protect your scalp from the sun
Protecting your scalp from UV rays and dryness is important, so whether using a braid spray or your own concoction, do not neglect your scalp when moisturizing your braids.
Prevent scalp buildup
Steer clear of unnatural products when hair is protected and enlist the help of natural oils that will not cause buildup or clog your scalp.
Don’t risk your edges
Make sure the style is not too tight. Yes, you want it to last but not at the expense of your edges as they will suffer as a result of braids too tight.
Don’t leave it in too long
Do not leave your protective style in longer than required, as it can cause matting, locking, or bald spots. Don’t let penny pinching leave you with hair worse off than before you started.
How to care for hair after removing extensions
Start by clarifying
Clarify your hair and scalp to remove any buildup that occurred when your hair was up and away. A scalp exfoliation may be necessary.
Deep treat
Make sure to deep condition and use a protein treatment. Use heat to really allow it to penetrate, and a protein treatment is a good idea too.
Remove split ends
A trim may also necessary, especially if you did not do one before the protective style. You want to ensure your hair is healthy and free of split ends.
That is a serious no-no. Hair may be dead, but it still needs water and time to rest from the tension of a protective style.
Give your hair a break
Last but certainly not least, let your hair have some down time. Too often people who regularly wear protective styles will have another style installed within days of removing the previous one. That is a serious no-no. Hair may be dead, but it still needs water and time to rest from the tension of a protective style. Give your hair at the very least two weeks before another protective style.
How to fix damaged hair after removal
You may need a trim, a protein treatment, and a heat-infused deep treatment to help rejuvenate your curls. All three will cut down on dryness, frizz, and damage. Steer clear of heat for a while (yes, longer than a month”> and give it a few weeks to see the changes.
Despite what you may think you know about this premature-aging defying oil, coconut oil has more than one type. There are refined, unrefined (virgin”>, and fractionated coconut oils, and while they all have the amazing composition of coconut oil, there are slight differences either through extraction or processing.
What is unrefined (virgin”> coconut oil?
Virgin coconut oil is considered superior to fractionated and natural coconut oil. It has a longer shelf life, it has a more distinctive aroma, and it has the most therapeutic properties without the addition of processing or detrimental heat altering its composition. Virgin coconut oil retains the original coconut’s chemical composition. It is made from fresh coconut meat rather than dried coconut meat, and it retains more coconut flavor because of its lack of exposure to high temperatures.
What is refined coconut oil?
Refined coconut oil is exclusively made from dried coconut meat or copra. The meat has been bleached, treated, deodorized, and processed through high heat to help extract the flavor and aroma. While some of the nutrients are stripped away in refined coconut oil, the fatty acid composition is kept intact.
What is fractionated coconut oil?
Just as the name states, fractionated coconut oil is a fraction of coconut oil with almost all of the long chain triglycerides removed through hydrolysis and steam distillation, leaving only the medium-chain triglycerides and turning it into a saturated oil. This gives the oil a very long shelf life while increasing the oil’s stability. This coconut oil variation maintains its liquid form at room temperature, but since lauric acid is removed from this oil, so are the bacteria-fighting antimicrobial properties. Fractionated coconut oil is predominately composed of capric and caprylic acids thus giving it a more antioxidant and disinfecting effect and ideal for cosmetics, lotions, ointments, and soaps.
Fractionated coconut oil still has the same moisturizing and emollient abilities as virgin coconut oil along with vitamins A, C, and E, which all help maintain collagen production. It can be added with essential oils especially essential oils that have anti-bacterial components since those portions were removed when creating the fractionated coconut oil. This will boost its benefits making it an excellent hair treatment, pre-poo, or even a sealant. Completely soluble with other oils, fractionated coconut oil is an excellent carrier oil and very light, which allows it to absorb quickly into the skin. Since there is more processing involved with fractionated coconut oil, it is slightly more expensive.
This oil can be added to any essential oil. Consider blending it with an oil containing anti-bacterial properties to replace that property which was removed from fractionated coconut oil; this will boost its benefits, making an excellent hair treatment, pre-poo, or even a sealant.
Have you tried fractionated coconut oil?
Question
Are hair root concealer sprays damaging to hair? Do they cause breakage/ fall out? Are hair root concealer sprays safe to use or do they cause breakage/hair loss/dryness over time. I dye my whites every 4 weeks with permanent hair color. To avoid so many chemicals, I bought a hair color root spray (L’Oreal Magic Retouch”> but am afraid it may cause damage (like I’ve heard regular sprays do”>. I can’t find any info on internet about safety or long-term effects. Can anyone provide information?
Answer
Hair root concealers are safe to use on your hair to temporarily color grays or change your hair color in between your permanent hair coloring sessions. Now, some brands are better than others as in application, ability to blend, and longevity. That goes the same for certain ingredients, as some do contain drying alcohols. Simply put: some brands fare better than others but that is across the board with how well they work. Here is a list of the best, and why.
Color Wow Root Touch Up
Color Wow Root Touch Up is a favorite of many because of the ingredient zinc stearate, which is a color-fixing ingredient. The cosmetics database considered this a low to moderate hazard ingredient depending on the usage. It is a mineral powder that looks like makeup. It attaches to the hair easily and does need a surfactant to remove the color. With no waxes there are no worries of a dull, unnatural finish.
Oscar Blandi Pronto Colore Root Touch-Up & Highlighting Pen
Oscar Blandi Pronto Colore Root Touch-Up & Highlighting Pen is another favorite and does not have drying alcohol in it. Easy to apply and stays on overnight without messiness. It is free from ammonia and peroxide but full of conditioners.
Jonathan Product Awake Color Root Touch Up
Another mineral loose powder, this root touch-up is not just for concealing roots but also hides hair loss or thinning hair. It works fast and easy to use and does fight greasiness like a dry shampoo.
Conclusion
I would advise deep conditioning after using these or a treatment to stave off dryness and any breakage. I have listed the ones that should be less drying but even trying the best of the best requires trial and error to find out what product works the best for you in all areas. Just a reminder that dry shampoos are being used by curly girls with no adverse effects to the hair. What may have been scary to try in the past has definitely redeemed itself as of late, so try one of these brands and let us know what you think.
Question
How to preserve a flat twist out? I did a flat twist out on my hair and I really like it. Last night I put my hair back in into larger flat twist outs to keep the style. The thing is, I don’t want to have to do that every single night until I wash my hair again. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to preserve my flat twist out? I would do a pineapple like I usually do but the back part of my hair tends to flatten out straight it’s really hard to make that little part like the rest of my head.
Answer
No one feels for pain as much as I do when it comes to failed pineapple nighttime routines. I cannot keep the pineapple from stretching my hair’s coils out either. Needless, to say I found other ways to preserve my style.
Most everyone is going to either say retwist at night or slap on a satin bonnet to preserve your style but those two options do not work for everybody. The object is for your twists to last as long as possible while still looking fresh, frizz-free, and intact. You will want buildup free curls, a good twisting technique, the right product, and sealed ends for the best flat twist out.
If twisting every night does not work for you then flat twist every other night. This will help in keeping them fresh enough through interval retwisting. You can also flat twist or create two-strand twists the section that loses the most definition. Here are some tips that will help on that end to lessen your need to retwist nightly.
Twist as you go down
Jessica Pettway has a unique and helpful tip for twisting your hair. This helps to give the twists more definition. She has a great video showing her gorgeous flat twist out on dry, stretched hair that is a great guide for a flawless style.
Wet or dry?
Some swear by starting your flat twist on wet hair. Others swear by damp, dry, or even stretched hair but the true winner is whatever you prefer. Trying a flat twist on wet or dry hair is the only way to see which gives you the preferred look and lasts longer. This will help you determine which is more likely to have better longevity.
Get good products
What you use to help set your style is just as important as you flat twisting technique. Setting or twisting products help to control frizz and set your desired style. If you find your flat twists do not hold the style as long as you would prefer, you may need to opt for a better twisting product like As I Am Twist Defining Cream or Jane Carter Solution Natural Twist Out Foam for a flawless finish.
Roll the ends
Many curly girls have opted for rolling the ends of their twists with perm rods to help keep the ends curled, sealed, and uniform. This also gives your hair a beautiful shape, especially if you have uneven ends.
Do you have some tips for decreasing the need to retwist nightly?
Question
I have hair that’s soft, but like braids and weaves but hair they braid irritate my scalp need help! The synthetic hair they use irritates my scalp also need to know my hair type and what products to keep my hair soft!
Answer
This is really a three-part question but here goes: For determination on your hair type check out our hair typing quiz and all about density, width, porosity and pattern on hair here: Hairtype Quiz
Now, let’s get into why your braids get irritated and working on softness.
Irritations to synthetic hair
I too had bad experiences with extensions. The reason this occurs is because there is an alkaline lye coating on the braiding hair you purchased to produce a wear or heat resistant product. This can cause irritation or red welts along the hair line. I suffered from the welts along the nape all the time and never realized this was the cause.
How to fix the problem
There is a super, simple solution that requires water and apple cider vinegar. Simply wash or soak the hair in a water + ACV mix (sink full of clean water and 1 cup of ACV”> for about 15 min. to remove the coating, you will see white film appear in the water. Remove hair, rinse thoroughly, and allow to air-dry.
Vinegar Rinsing on Kanekalon – Prep for Box Braids
How to soften natural hair
Persons suffering from rough hair may be dealing with product buildup, not moisturizing properly, too much protein, or just excessive dryness. It depends on what is actually going on to fully fix the problem, but here are go-tos for softening your hair.
Deep condition on wash day
Deep condition to bring back to life and rebuild the cuticle temporarily. That goes along with adding softness to rough hair from shampooing. Just do it! Using a hooded dryer or heating cap will impart extra softness.
Adding humectants to hair diet
Humectants help to retain moisture to your strands. Glycerin or honey are popular humectants and can be added to your conditioners for additional moisture.
Use shampoo or clarifying shampoo if you have buildup
You may co-wash often but shampoos still have a place in a curly girl’s life. Hair accumulates product buildup overtime and with increased product application, so you will need shampoo, clay, or oat water to thoroughly cleanse your hair and regain its natural softness.
Read more: 100% Natural Cleansers that Won’t Dry Your Hair Out
Apply leave-in with a light hand
Being heavy-handed with stylers like gels and hair butters can often cause the buildup problem and leave hair hard, coated, and even sticky. Less is more when it comes to stylers.
Hot oil treatments
They are great for getting hair softer and moisturized, so try doing these weekly to see if you notice a difference.
Question
Can anyone tell what causes of matted hair? This is my main problem and I still can’t solve it.
What is matted hair?
Matted hair is the combination of attached and shed hairs entwined in clumps or web-like tangles. They are more severe than regular tangles. Some are just prone to matted hair, but many experience matted hair when wearing braided extensions or other extensions too long.
How does it happen?
Matted hair occurs when it has not been combed to remove shed hairs. Loose hairs can knot several times around attached hair, create a tangle, and lead to matting if not removed. Some people are just prone to knotting while other may be suffering from a damaged hair cuticle, causing more friction from the lifted cuticles.
Does it have to be cut out?
No, matted hair can be successfully detangled without cutting the hair. It takes patience, work, and product, but it can be accomplished and end up saving your strands and your nerves from being shot. Yanking or ripping the hair apart leads to further damage to your strands. No one likes dealing with matted hair.
How to detangle it
While some may decide to seek a professional (hair stylist”> to fix their matted hair, it can be done at home with a few tools and some serious patience.
Step 1 – Loosen
Loosen the matted strands by saturating with an excellent detangler, oil, or moisturizing conditioner but never a shampoo and water only. This is not the time to skimp so really saturate it. Some will allow the hair to sit for up to 30 minutes with the detangler and some even add heat to really get the product to loosen and soften the strands.Step 2 – Pull apart
Use fingers or a wide tooth comb to gently pull apart the strands, but take your time. The goal is to detangle your a hair and decrease further damage. Make sure to hold onto the hair near the root to prevent yanking and pain.There will be significant shedding so do not panic and remember we lose on average 100 hairs a day, and since the hair is matted those shed hairs are locked in and need removal.
How to keep hair from matting
- Do detangle regularly to decrease the chances of it occurring, especially if you are prone to matting
- Do not put off detangling, as it may turn into a more tedious and damaging detangling session or matting
- Do regular protein treatments to fill the gaps in damaged cuticles, as this will decrease friction, tangles, and matting
- Do not keep extensions in any longer than advised
Have you experienced matted hair? How did you fix it?
Benefits of blue malva
The flowers of the blue malva contain a blue pigment that was once used as a natural blue rinse for graying hair before chemicals were commonly used. Blue malva, like all mallows, relieves inflammation and has soothing qualities. Mostly known for countering irritation and inflammation, it is often used for lowering stomach acids and even relieving gastrointestinal disorders like indigestion or ulcers.
Blue malva is also a natural expectorant that helps to loosen and expel phlegm as well as congestion in the lungs. Despite these medicinal remedies, this fragrant flower finds its ways into conditioners, perfumes, and even shampoos for its cooling properties.
Benefits of blue malva for hair
Not just for soothing stomachs and sore throats, blue malva’s anti-inflammatory properties are soothing for those with scalp conditions. With its natural cooling properties and mucilage, blue malva is excellent as an emollient for dry skin and sun. It is also mildly astringent and helps with psoriasis, eczema, boils, abscesses, and wounds. The flower can be steeped into a tea and great for giving gray hair a more silver look. This plant—whether used as an extract or steeped in a tea—has several positive attributes to one’s scalp and hair.
Here are some products below that use the power of blue malva.
- Shikai Color Reflect Shampoo Platinum reflects the natural or color-treated platinum tones in blonde hair.
- AVEDA by Aveda: Blue Malva Color Shampoo helps to bring silvery brightness to gray hair.
DIY Blue malva detangling hair rinse
- 1 tsp. blue malva herb
- 1 tsp. Irish moss
- 1 tsp. hibiscus powder
- 1 cup hot water
Bring water to a boil and turn off heat before adding herbs. Cover and allow to steep for about 15 to 20 min. Remove herbs by straining through a fine sieve or cheesecloth and allow to cool. Pour entire mixture over head after rinsing out your conditioner and do not rinse out. Style as usual.
You can follow the exact instructions but use only the blue malva herbs to create a soothing hair rinse.
Question
I have been using henna with great results, this time my hair turned orange. How do I fix this? I’m 54 with bright orange clown looking hair, what will tone this down? I used henna, coffee, yogurt, apple cider vinegar, olive oil, molasses, and coconut oil. Not sure why it is so brassy this time.
Answer
The short answer is to go over your hair with indigo to darken the orange henna dyed your hair and it will be dark brown or black. If you are okay with that then you are good to go. You also many need to wait a few days for the oxidation process and the orange may subside to red. Here are some explanations on what henna and indigo are, and what may have caused your hair to turn orange.
What is henna?
Henna or Lawsonia inermis is a flowering plant that contains a very effective coloring pigment, Lawsone. A reddish-orange dye releases as the leaves are crushed. The pigment is maximized by the drying, milling, and sifting the henna leaves into a fine powder. Used since antiquity to dye fingernails, skin, hair, leather, and wool, the henna plant is native to tropical and subtropical regions in Africa, northern Australia, and southern Asia. 100% natural henna will only dye orange-reddish tones despite seeing some commercial brands claiming several henna colors.
What is indigo?
Indigo or Indigofera tinctoria produces a dark blue almost purplish dye that is among the oldest dyes used for textile and printing. Sometimes called black henna, Indigo will color the hair brown to black tones and will make existing dark hair colors even darker.
Why go over the henna with indigo?
Indigo is alkaline and reacts with henna, which is acidic to turn henna dyed hair from brown or red to black. They work quite well together and are often used to dye grays naturally.
What type of henna should you purchase?
As stated above, 100% natural henna will only dye hair a reddish-orange and any brands that claim it will dye it other colors is using other ingredients with their henna. There is no guarantee what you may end up with or how it will affect your strands.
How to fix a henna mishap?
Applying indigo will react with the henna and darken it to either a dark brown or even black. That may not be what you are opting for, but you may prefer it over the bright red orange. You may have used a different brand, the henna may be old, or your ingredient had some variations in your last application of the henna. Some add coffee and teas like chamomile to keep their hair from turning the reddish, orange color but going over the hair with indigo is the best way to remove the reddish-orange to a darker color.
Has henna ever turned your hair orange?
Scores of women realized this was no longer just a method for returning natural, but an embodiment of style. Some feel limited with styles, and while stepping out of your comfort zone may be easy for many, some women feel compelled to either transition or wear wigs and extensions for more versatility. If that is your prerogative, then by all means do you boo, but if you want to thoroughly enjoy the loving spirit of the TWA, then we are here to share just how to do it and do it well.
Embrace your beauty
Self-love is a necessary component in maintaining a healthy body and mind. Loving yourself should come naturally to all of us, but sometimes it does not. Love your amazingly beautiful self inside and out, and that includes the natural coils that grace your beautiful head. Your natural hair is unique and lovely, and as you dance to the beat of your own style, make sure to look at your exquisite features and love every curve, dimple, discoloration, and mark that makes you unique.
Embrace your natural hair changes
The upside to chopping off your relaxed ends is working with only one hair texture. Transitioning can be rewarding but challenging. As your hair grows it may go through plenty of changes in the first few years as you moisturize and nurture it. Be aware of the changes and take them in strides, as that acceptance will make for less bad hair days.
Embrace your texture
What you start off with in texture when you first BC may not be what you end up with at month six, year one, or even year two, and that should be perfectly okay. Whatever your hair’s texture, density or porosity, make sure to love your unique head of hair. All textures are beautiful. While it may seem everyone loves a particular texture, every type from 4C to 2A can master beautiful styles from wash and goes to twist out and beyond. Check out YouTube videos of vloggers with textures that mirror yours for styling choices or hit up a curly hair stylist for tips on styles perfect for your hair type.
Pump up the accessories and styles
Now, short hair is not for everyone and when I did the BC, I felt slightly less feminine at the time because of it, and there is no need for me to even lie about it. I did however begin rocking brighter and bolder lipstick and earrings and a sista felt better about my short hairdo immediately. Accessories can be makeup, jewelry, color, or a hat. ThatIsKei and ImShineStruck share how they rock their TWAs and the immeasurable ways it transforms their look with each accessory, technique, and color.
The takeaway
Yes, you can rock a TWA in more than one way. Limit only to your liking because there are numerous ways to rock a TWA, from adding scarves to creating a part. Once you see the beauty within yourself and your hair, the enjoyment you will have creating a new natural you will be liberating, easy, and fun. Sometimes we just have to get out of our own critical way.
Follow photographer Christina Nwabugo below:
How do you enjoy your TWA?
Question
“Can you permanently stretch your hair? I like to wear my hair in buns a lot (because I’m trying to grow my hair out”> and although I take really good care of my hair (the curl pattern is consistent from root to tip”> but I have this section of my hair that won’t curl. I do straighten my hair (maybe 2-3 times a year”> but it’s not heat damage, I think I’ve permanently stretched my hair or at least “trained” the hair to be looser by always stretching it in that area? I was wondering if anyone else has that problem and knows what hairstyles I can do to re-train the curl.”
Answer
It sounds like your problem is occurring from damaging the hair’s cuticle in that area due to excessing stretching. There are several reasons why over-stretching or wearing your hair up in the same style too often is a bad idea, but let’s get into what safe and excessive stretching are first.
Hair elasticity measures the strength of the hair strand and the ability of it to stretch without breaking and going back to its original state. Healthy hair is elastic with a healthy cortex (cortex is the strength bearing part of hair”>. According to The Natural Haven, low levels of stretching are just fine but excessive stretching or stretching hair over the safe limit (20-30% of the strand”> can damage the hair’s cuticle. Excessive stretching can be wearing overly tight buns, ponytails, braids, or other updos and protective styles, especially with hair bands and extensions. Many are cautious about chemical and thermal damage but overlook the effects of mechanical damage.
That part of your hair that seems stretched permanently may be where your bun is pulled the most and has the most damage. Here are tips on keeping hair safe during stretching styles.
Try not to stretch or wear wet hair up
Wet hair is considerably weaker than dry or damp hair. Stretching or wearing it up while wet (stretching is still occurring”> makes it vulnerable to break. Hair is more pliable when damp but dry hair lacks flexibility.
Change up your go-to style
Wearing your hair up every day in a tight bun and/or ponytail may be easy to maintain but it can cause your strands to break where they are being held or even pulling at the roots. Protective styles like buns, braids, and updos need to be changed up for a much needed break. When I had box braids I waited only one or two days in between installations, and while box braids are a protective style, the waiting period I gave my hair was not enough and my edges suffered dramatically.
Time for a protein treatment
If your hair stretches excessively when wet, then it is time to incorporate a protein treatment or conditioner. Protein treatments help rebuild the hair’s cuticle that has been chipped away from heat styling, chemicals, and manipulation from washing and styling. Protein treatments strengthen your strands to get your elasticity back on track. Do not forget to deep condition each wash day, as they temporarily strengthen the hair after the stresses of cleansing and your daily styling. Protein treatments are great but remember that healthy hair needs a protein moisture balance.
Read more: Do You Over-Moisturize Your Hair? Understanding Hygral Fatigue
Try a new style, haircut, or trim
Your hair may need some professional assistance with a new look to help get you out of that style you were stuck in. I know I needed it when I went in for my last Deva Cut and it helped me to break away from my current part down the middle and keep me from looking so dated. Fixing the problem by strengthening your strands is not enough if you are going to go back to the same style that created the problem in the first place. It is time to try a new style or try varying updos so excessive stretching does not become another headache in the future.
Read more: Top 8 Protein Treatments for Natural Hair
Follow Christina Nwabugo and Hannah Faith here:
Despite the number of professional hairstylists available, many curly girls are still leery and want to be knowledgeable about what the hairstylist needs to know, so they get the amazing cut or trim they desire. July.Young from our Curly Q&A asks about the proper way to get a trim.
Question
How should I wear my hair when I go to get it trimmed? Wet or dry?
Answer
Many are still wondering if they should get a haircut with their curls in its natural state or straightened, and while many opt for curly, knowing if hair should be wet as opposed to dry is something that needs addressing. It depends on the type of cut you are getting and that depends on the stylist and how they were trained. Here are some tips from the most popular three curly girl cuts we are seeing.
The DevaCut (dry hair”>
This cut is optimal for the avid wash and goer like me and I absolutely love this cut. The cut is done on dry hair then the cleansing, conditioning, and styling follows to see if additional cutting is necessary. It is customized to work with your own unique curl pattern and requires special training to learn. The focus is sculpting each and every curl, cutting at an angle so the curl pattern is not disrupted. They cut each curl ringlet by ringlet and there is never any texturizing or thinning. Each and every cut is customized for the client.
Read more: 9 Amazing Deva Cut Transformations
The Ouidad Cut (wet hair”>
The Ouidad Carving & Slicing cut removes the bulk many curlies have and hate: that pyramid or Christmas tree look. Many (ones with much thicker hair than mine”> find this cut helpful at de-bulking and enhancing their curls. This cut is done on wet hair and the Ouidad certified stylist has undergone rigorous training to master this technique.
Read more: My Long to Short Curly Haircut at Ouidad
The RI CI cut (wet hair”>
From wavy to coily this cut can be for any curly girl. This cut is designed to help control the curls by opening up the interior to make room for each and every curl, coil, or wave. The focus is on the weight and density of the hair instead of the curl pattern. They approach each section individually and cut only where they need to.
Read more: No, Deva Cut is not the Only Haircut for Curly Hair…
The takeaway
Once you have found the perfect stylist ask which cut they have been trained in and make sure to book a consultation so they can determine what you want and what your hair requires. What technique they choose will determine whether a wet or dry cut is necessary for you. It is not standard
Question
How do I control frizz while transitioning? I’m transitioning from relaxed hair and I haven’t put heat to it in over 3 months and haven’t used a relaxer in over a year! I’ve been perm rod and flexi rodding but after a few days I tend to have a frizz problem! What can I use?
Answer
You are off to an excellent start on a healthy hair transitioning path by eliminating heat from your regimen, so congrats on that. As far as frizz becoming an issue with your perm flexi rod sets, here are some tips for more longevity and less frizz.
Detangle fully
Before setting your hair, make sure it is fully detangled to ensure smooth results. Never rush through your detangling session, as it will only make for a less smooth look and feel to your hair.
Use taut techniques
You are working with two (or more”> different textures when transitioning. To ensure that roots to the ends are smooth and consistent, extend your sections taut when wrapping or rolling the hair on the rods. You can be gentle and make sure the hair is wrapped smoothly and evenly for a firm set that will last longer and stave off the frizz.
Use proper setting products
Back in the day everyone knew to use Lottabody setting lotion for the perfect roller set. Setting lotions are designed to be used on wet hair so the hair sets how it dries. They really are the best product for setting your hair and for less frizz in the days to come. Make sure you get one specifically for roller sets (can be used on perm or flexi rods too”> and you will see a huge difference in the lasting of your curls as well as less frizz.
Read more: Top 15 Alcohol-free Mousses
Hair needs to be 100% dry
Make sure your hair is completely dry before removing rods and rollers. Allow your hair to dry overnight or even sit under a hooded dryer in the morning or before bed. When you release your curls before they are dry, your hair will respond to the humidity by shrinking and expanding to frizz.
Protect hair at night
Satin or silk will become your best friend for eliminating frizz while you sleep. A satin, scarf, or pillowcase is necessary to keep hair moisturized and curls staying frizz-free. Cotton scarves and pillowcase will absorb moisture from your hair, making it dry and prone to breakage.
Do not touch hair often (or at all”>
Do not mindlessly touch your curls, as that can encourage frizz throughout the day and week. Fluff and style accordingly, but constant touching and separating too often will cause frizz and make you lose your style and smoothness. You will be surprised how often we mindlessly touch our hair and how it affects the longevity of our styles.
Find a frizz, roll a frizz
If you find some curls are frizzing up then restyle that section and fluff it to match the others after it dries. This is great for overnight and this will allow your style to last longer.
Change your style
If you are all frizzed out then change the style completely but creating a new one. A curly afro, messy bun, ninja bun, rocking a hat will recreate your style and allow for you to not have to redo your hair all over again. Certain styles look better with frizz because it is unique and creates volume, so just work with what you have until wash day.
For some curly girls, especially those with looser curl patterns, conditioner actually weighs hair down and not just oils or heavy styling products. No matter how light or thin, for some of our fine-haired curly girls (like myself”> conditioner is loved and hated. This issue does not get much time on hair blogs and sites for curly girls as many believe that all curly girls have huge, voluminous hair. Speaking as a fine-haired curly girl who struggles with volume, the belief we all have volume cannot be further from the truth. I have always wanted big hair, but I have fine hair and only crave the bigness of some other curly girls.
While genetics, age, hormones, or hair practices may or may not contribute to a lack of volume for some, TRESemmé has come out with an entire line for women who are volume seekers tired of stiff, crunchy hair and the weight of conditioners.
What is the TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Collection?
TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Collection is a 4 step, 5 product formula that turns the wash day upside-down and on its side. Here is the line-up:- TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Pre-wash Conditioner
- TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Shampoo
- TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Hair Maximizer
- TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Mousse
- TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Hairspray
What we find the most intriguing is the TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Pre-wash Conditioner. Conditioner going before the shampoo and not after is a new concept so we reached out to TRESemmé for some insight into this new product.
“The Pre-Wash Conditioner is a part of the brand’s new Beauty-Full Volume reverse wash system – the only system that gives you soft, touchable volume by conditioning first to soften and shampooing second to wash away weight.” TRESemmé
Not conditioning hair after cleansing seems foreign to most women, but especially a curly girl as we are addicted (and rightfully so”> to our conditioner.
Pre-condition to soften
TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Pre-wash Conditioner claims to:
• Reinforce the hair’s natural protective layer using the Fiber Polishing technology
• Protect the hair during washing to leave it smooth and polished
• Be safe for color-treated hair
• Work best with TRESemmé Beauty-Full Volume Shampoo
After the pre-wash conditioner protects and conditions the hair, you apply the shampoo and then the Volume Hair Maximizer to tame the frizz and give hair its manageability. The shampoo does more than cleanse; it also has the job of leaving hair smooth and polished.
It seems each component has a very different job from traditional wash day products. While it seems backwards and on its side, the road to voluminous hair may very well be an unfamiliar road that starts with conditioning and ends with a halo of touchable gorgeousness.Is this a pre-poo?
Not conditioning hair after cleansing seems foreign to most women, but especially a curly girl as we are addicted (and rightfully so”> to our conditioner. Many of us practice the method of pre-pooing, which we define in our NaturallyCurly Glossary as “applying an oil or conditioner prior to shampooing to help the hair maintain necessary moisture during the drying shampoo process.” Perhaps TRESemmé has been listening to the curly community. But even when we pre-poo we still cleanse and condition as we normally would, so it will be interesting to see if this product can really provide the moisture needed to keep our curls happy.
Have you tried the line and if so what did you think of it?
Editor’s note: This post is not sponsored.
Good vs. bad silicones
There are good silicones for hair as well as bad, and the good tend to be water-soluble, which allow for easy removal and are great for curly girls who co-wash often. The bad would be the non water-soluble silicones, which require either using a clarifying shampoo or a shampoo with sulfates to remove them. Whether water-soluble or non-water soluble, all types of silicones coat the hair and need to be removed.
Read more: Silicones: Good, Bad, and the Ugly
What is stearyl dimethicone?
Stearyl dimethicone is a siloxane polymer that is a synthetic skin-conditioning agent. It adds opacity with a protective layer that gives hair a silky and softer feel. This waxy ingredient is often used in skin and hair emulsions, color cosmetics, and some deodorant sticks.
Pros
Stearyl dimethicone is a non-greasy silicone that adds a silky gloss to hair and improves pigment dispersion. It is safe to use on skin and hair and often used because of the silky feel or slip it gives to hair without being or looking greasy.
Cons
Stearyl dimethicone requires a sulfate shampoo or a clarifying shampoo for thorough removal. It can leave your roots looking and feeling greasy (over time if not properly removed”>. Always remember to follow up with a deep conditioner after using a sulfate shampoo to prevent further damage from an open cuticle.
Dimethicone vs. Dimethiconol
According to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, both of these two polymers often get mistaken for one another because they are essentially equivalent in their performance in regard to the amount of deposition and when coming hair wet. The differences lie in their performance in other instances occurs because dimethiconol has an increased molecular weight and has a different end group with hydroxyl (-OH”> groups and most of those groups contain alcohols. Despite those differences they are very similar.The Takeaway
Stearyl dimethicone can give a silky gloss and make hair look and feel softer, but the buildup will be problematic and if used often will mean a continuous use of sulfates or clarifying shampoos. Curly hair cannot afford using sulfates regularly so this type of silicone should be used sparingly if your hair cannot manage shampoo frequently.
Read more: Silicones: Good, Bad, and Ugly
Why we love and hate silicones
We cannot stress enough the importance in knowing that not all silicones are bad and many actually have favorable benefits. If we have to put them in the good, bad, and downright ugly category, then it would be the water-soluble (good”>, semi-soluble (bad”>, and the water-insoluble (ugly”>. Water-soluble silicones will always fare better as they can be removed easily with water but bad or ugly require clarifying shampoos or sulfates and too much use of those can be counter-productive to moisture retention hair.
What is bis-aminopropyl dimethicone?
Bis-aminopropyl dimethicone is very similar to amodimethicone. These modified silicones have specific properties, which allow them to be excellent conditioning agents and create a protective barrier on the hair strands. They are considered the best high-performing conditioning polymers. This water-insoluble silicone is often found in regular conditioners.
Pros
Bis-aminopropyl dimethicone actually bonds to damaged areas on the hair’s cuticle and makes the hair feel softer. It also creates the protective barrier like other silicones and provides easier combing. What makes it different from other silicones and hair is that it does not cause buildup on the scalp and hair. It will provide conditioning to damage areas, increase color-retention, and aid in deep conditioning.
Cons
This silicone is a pain to remove from our hair despite it not being considered a build-up silicone. Bis-aminopropyl dimethicone is a semi-water soluble silicone that may build up hair over time, but it seems it is a trial and error kind of ingredient because some have no issue with buildup while others do. It is not as difficult to wash out, but it does create a barrier that may require a sulfate or clarifying shampoo to remove.
The takeaway
Out of the so-called bad silicones, many curlies like this ingredient and it can be found in many of our favorite brands and products. To say the good outweighs the bad would be too simplistic of an answer and a better one would be to decide for yourself if this is an ingredient you like. Since it is in many products curly girls love it may become a favorite for others, but know if you do feel a buildup then a sulfate shampoo should do the trick of removing it and know that sulfates can stave off moisture in our strands. Always follow up with a conditioner after you shampoo. Here are some products with bis-aminopropyl dimethicone.
Products with bis-aminopropyl dimethicone
Not all “natural sounding” terms are natural and by the same token, not all “chemical sounding” terms are not natural. For example, water is a chemical. Learning the tricks of the trade for product marketing allows for a more informed consumer. We just want to make sure you are fully informed before buying a product with shopper remorse immediately after wash day. As we delve into foreign sounding ingredients stay open to the idea on trying something new to see if it works. You may just be surprised.
Emollient is a term used in personal care products. They are humectants, lubricants, and occlude, keeping the skin from losing moisture by holding onto water and leaving the skin supple with a protective layer. According to cosmetic chemist Tonya McKay, “An emollient for hair should easily form a smooth, even film on the surface of the hair, should soften the hair, and should not yield an unpleasant sticky or greasy texture.”
What is Beantree?
Beantree is a natural, clear liquid derived from castor and rapeseed. This liquid, low in viscosity, has a light and dry, non-oily feel, which can easily and quickly be absorbed into the skin, including the scalp. Beantree is also known as the chemical ingredient, methylheptyl isostearate, which is an ester of caprylic alcohol and isostearic acid. Beantree is just a brand name for methylheptyl isostearate just as Kleenex is a brand name for facial tissue. This popular emollient was created by ALZO international Inc., which also develops specialty emollients esters, specialty surfactants, and conditioners.
Benefits of Beantree on hair
Beantree or methylheptyl isostearate works at preventing water loss form the hair’s surface so the strands do not dry out. It has a dry feel and often used instead of evaporating silicones. It adds a high gloss, or sheen. It is used in hair products and can be found in color cosmetics, skin care, and bath products. It will condition the scalp and hair while retaining moisture and absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy feel. It has excellent lubricating and emulsifying properties and seems to be a great replacement for silicones. A few brands have found this to be a viable ingredient in several of their products, namely Curls and Blended Beauty, but this may only be the tip of the iceberg for brands giving this non-oily yet moisture grabbing liquid a chance.
Products with Beantree
Question
How to care for my hair in the wilderness? I am going on three-month camping expedition and will only have access to a shower/conditioner about once a month. I obviously don’t need my hair to look nice, but I don’t want to end up having to cut off my hair because of the knots. Any suggestions on something to bring or a habit to get into to keep my hair tame during this time? Thanks!
Answer
Your hair should not get in the way of the lifestyle you want to lead, no matter what you are doing! There are a few items, tips, and techniques that will make for an easier expedition, and since space is probably limited, bringing the right essentials will make for a better trip. So let’s get into some tips that will keep your hair looking great and knot-free with minimal effort or products.
Dry shampoo
Dry shampoo can be a useful tool when you don’t have many opportunities to wash your hair. It will help with the sweat, dirt, and bugs that you may encounter while out becoming one with nature in-between your hair washings.
Read more: Top 15 Dry Shampoos
Double up on the products
Since space will probably be a factor, make sure to find products that can double up on duties, for example a cleanser that can be used on both your body and hair, or a leave-in conditioner that also has the hold of a styler or the slip of a detangler. Shampoo bars can be great for cleansing your body and hair at the same time and they last . A leave-in with amazing slip will be your best friend, as you want to deter knots. Kinky-Curly Knot Today is a great idea as it will give amazing slip and many use it as a styler.
Braids
Keeping your hair in braids will keep the hair out of the way while preventing tangles. French braiding the hair with at least two on either side is good and tucking the ends up will help keep your hair out of the way. A braided updo, ponytail, or twists are all smart options. Since you are camping for such an extended time, bunning, twisting, or braiding your ponytail will prevent further knotting and dry ends.
Read more: Ask Dr. Kari: Effective Protective Styles
Natural oils
Bringing your favorite natural oil (a lighter one of course”> may be a good way to keep hair from getting too dry or just to make your braided hair smoother and stay together. It can be a great sealant when you do wash your hair and condition and with the spirit of doubling up, oils (olive oil”> are great for removing ticks and yes, I am a country girl so I know a few things about ticks.
Keep it covered
Covering your hair with a scarf or a hat is a great option for protecting your hair as well. It will also keep your hair out of the way and out of your face. Baseball caps help with shielding hair from the sun and keeping hair covered and out of the way. This also helps to prevent damage from the extended sun exposure.
Read more: Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Read more: Silicones: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
What are silicones and how do they affect our hair?
Silicones are substances composed of organic and inorganic polymers and “are produced by reacting silicon—one of the earth’s most common elements- with methyl chloride and further reaction with water which removes the chlorine atom,” according to the American Chemistry Council. Silicones are manufactured in several forms namely liquid, solid, and semi-solid, greases, oils, and rubber. They are also hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic. When it comes to silicones on the hair we find that the differences matter greatly. For one, there are three types that can be found in our hair care products.
- Water-soluble (the good”>: These types of silicones dissolve in water and easy to rinse out of hair and without buildup on the scalp and hair.
- Semi-soluble (the bad”>: These types of silicones do not fully dissolve into water but most evaporate from the hair while the rest can be washed out by a shampoo. May cause buildup on the scalp and hair but are still easy to remove.
- Non-water soluble (the ugly”>: Considered the worst of silicones for hair, as they will cause buildup on the scalp and hair and can only be removed by a shampoo with sulfates or a clarifying shampoo.
What is cetearyl methicone?
Cetearyl methicone is a non-water soluble silicone that is a siloxane polymer. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent or emollient. It aids in adding a protective barrier to the hair strands that allows for better slip as well as a protection to the hair for heat applications. Cetearyl methicone aids in protecting the skin. It is known as a barrier ingredient that provides excellent lubricity and spreadability.
Pros
Non-water soluble silicones, like cetearyl methicone, are great for creating a protective barrier around the hair strands and will keep water in while also creating slip to the hair. It will make the hair feel softer and help to keep hair from detangling. They are great at protecting the hair from heat tools directly damaging the hair and causing heat damage.
Read more: Heat Protectants: This Buildup Actually Saves Your Hair
Cons
Cetearyl methicone will create buildup on the scalp and hair when not cleansed off regularly, especially for fine strands. To remove this ingredient from the hair, it must be cleansed with a clarifying shampoo or a shampoo with sulfates, and many curly girls steer clear of sulfates because they are extremely drying to our strands. The coating they impart on the hair gives the impression that one has healthier hair because it makes it softer, removes fizz and friction, but it is only cosmetic or superficial. It only gives the appearance of healthier hair but it does not actually make the hair healthier.
To remove this ingredient from the hair, it must be cleansed with a clarifying shampoo or a shampoo with sulfates
The takeaway
Cetearyl methicone is a non-water soluble water silicones that imparts buildup on the scalp and hair. It makes hair softer or gives it slip, but it merely coats the hair and does not add any health value other than aesthetic. It is a good ingredient in a heat protectant, as it creates a barrier on the hair strands and protects the hair from heat styling tools.
