Search Results: Sabrina Perkins
Wearing a wig requires more than just buying one and wearing it. You have to figure out how to wear it. Unless you are bald or have a short afro, you have to figure out what to do with your hair under the wig. There is more to it than just brushing your hair to back, because simply gathering hair under the wig can cause breakage. Hair needs to be protected under the wig and that requires planning and a proper regimen for maintenance. Here are the best ways to wear your hair while under a wig.
Braids
Having hair in braids (your own hair”> is one of the three ideal ways to wear your hair under the wig. While not at flat as other styles it allows for hair to be protected and easier for some women to maintain. It also allows for easier access to the scalp for cleansing and moisturizing. Simply place hair in small braids to minimize lumps or bumps under the wig.
Cornrows
This is the most common style to wear your hair under the wig and allows for a flatter surface than braided hair. It does however leave only limited access to the scalp, but hair is protected and less likely to be bulky or lumpy under the wig. Simply divide hair into small rows from front to back and braid down the length of your head.
Twists or flat twists
These are the easiest styles to wear under a wig but they are also the least favorite. While easy to create they will frizz and tangle faster than braids and cornrows, but remember to make them small so they will not leave lumps under the wig.
Things to remember when wearing a wig
- Wear a silk wig liner – The cap protects the hair from the wig and keeps your hair in place while wearing the wig.
- Moisturize and allow your scalp to get air – wearing a wig does not mean your hair is completely protected and therefore allowed to be neglected. It must be moisturized prior to wearing a wig. Remember to moisturize before going to bed if your hair feels dry and never sleep with a wig.
- Never place a wig on a wet head – That is just a breeding ground for bacteria. Hair should always be completely dry before wearing a wig.
- Clean and condition your hair and scalp regularly – Hair and scalp needs regularly cleansing to remove the excess sebum and even dirt. Sweat and moisturizers can be build up and need to be removed. Take down the twists, braids, or cornrows to shampoo, deep conditioner, moisturize, and redo a fresh set of braids, twists, or cornrows. This will ensure your hair and scalp stay clean and moisturized so your hair does not because brittle and break.
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Question
Why do I have damaged hair when I hardly straighten it? I only sometimes straighten the top but most of my top layers are damaged even though I don’t straighten them.
Answer
Sometimes we make assumptions about our hair damage, but making an honest assessment about what we were or are doing is the only way to find out what’s going on. Damage can occur for many reasons, so looking at what you are doing to your hair will answer this question for you.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but heat damage can happen the very first time you use direct heat.
3 Ways you might be damaging your hair
1. Heat styling
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but heat damage can happen the very first time you use direct heat. It can even occur with a heat protectant. The heat appliance can be too hot. Other problems some face is using heat styling options too often or keeping the tool on the hair too long. If you smell burning hair when applying heat, that is your hair not the products.
How hot should your heat tool be?
We recommend using the lowest possible heat setting that can work for your hair while passing the flat iron over your hair just once or twice. The experts at Folica recommend customizing the temperature of your flat iron based on your hair type. To take this one step further, they also recommend using “different temperatures on different parts of your hair: cooler near your face where hair is fine and hotter wherever your hair is thickest and strongest.”
- Coarse or thick hair: 380°F and above
- Wavy or curly hair: 350°F – 370°F
- Medium thickness or straight-ish hair: 330°F – 350°F
- Thin hair: 300°F – 330°F
- Fragile or fine hair: 240°F – 300°F
- Synthetic hair lowest available setting
Heat damage is irreversible but conditioning treatments and trims will help in the meantime if you are not ready to chop it all off as a result. Heat damaged hair can be masked by using perm rods, pin curls, or twisting to mirror the non-heat damaged areas. Roller sets allow for uniform curls too.
2. Hair color
Many of us color our hair, and even though this is a damaging process, we do not realize the damage can be lasting. If we do not care for our hair properly after a permanent color treatment, weakened hair from the color (especially bleaching”> will only become increasingly dry and prone to breakage. There are special hair products for color-treated hair because they have extra conditioners, proteins, and moisturizers to help get the hair back into a healthy state.
3. A protein-moisture imbalance
Textured hair needs proper protein-moisture balance. If your hair is limp and lifeless it needs protein. If it is dry, brittle, and hard it needs moisture. Keeping hair in a level balance between protein and moisture allow for healthy hair that combats breakage.
Read more: Do You Over Moisturize Your Hair? Understanding Hygral Fatigue
4. Neglecting trims
Trims are a necessary evil that many women put off because they want to retain length, but those ends are the oldest hair with the most manipulation and when they are ready to go they need to be gone! Holding onto raggedy, brittle ends can create split ends and frizz and make your hair look bad. Trimming allows for better styling and less knots.
Fix the problem
While you cannot restore damaged hair to its virgin, healthy state, there are things you can do to minimize further damage and give your hair a healthier appearance. When your hair is damaged, reassess your regimen, steer clear of heat and chemical treatments, get a trim or haircut, and deep condition after every wash. Make sure you are keeping hair moisturized and sealed. Thoroughly apply moisturizing products on your hair, concentrating on your ends and damaged areas. You should be seeing a difference in no time.
Read more: 3 Kinds of Damage that Loosen Your Curl
Why finger detangle?
Fingers are more sensitive and can feel tangles better than combs well before the yanking begins. Those who finger detangle retain more hair than using a comb or brush alone. No one says you have to strictly finger detangle but implementing it even in combing allows for less ripping of your hair. While many feel it takes longer than other forms of detangling, that is not true for everybody. Some have simply mastered it over time while others use certain tips to help lessen the time and allow for better and quicker sessions. Here are a few tips that will yield shorter finger detangling sessions.
4 steps to a faster detangling session
1. Don’t wait until the dire end
Sticking to a schedule or just not waiting until the tangles have taken over your hair is the best and easiest way to lower your time on detangling sessions. Putting it off is a bad idea, as it only gets worse when you wait too long to do the inevitable. Waiting two weeks (or longer”> is allowing for more shed hairs to be trapped with the regular hairs and for them to tangle even more. I wash once every other week but co-wash in-between to keep the tangles at bay and it works.
2. Keep your hair moisturized
Dry hair tangles more than moisturized hair. Slip is always a great tool for detangling, but when hair is dry it will tangle more as opposed to moisturized hair. Use a spray bottle of water (and a favorite oil is optional”> to refresh your hair every day and keep it hydrated. Moisturized hair is much easier to detangle and will allow for a quicker session.
3. Section your hair
Sectioning hair to work with is always a good thing and that goes double for detangling sessions. Working on sectioned hair allows for less area to cover at one time, easier to keep up with what has been done and it allow you to move it out of the way when completed.
4. Get regular trims
I cannot tell you how much of a breeze detangling becomes when you have clean ends that are not splitting or raggedy. It allows for fewer tangles as raggedy ends tangle more than clean trimmed ones do and clean ends are easier to seal and stave off tangles. It is a win-win for regular trims and I get them twice a year. I usually know it is time for another one when the tangles worsen, so if you are dealing with unusually bad tangles and it’s been a long while since your last trim, it may be time for one.
While these tips will not shave off 50% of your detangling sessions, it will knock off enough time for you to notice and feel less stressed during washday. A little planning, regular maintenance, and enlisting the help of detangling products will make for quicker finger detangling and an overall better wash day.
How do you detangle?
1. It’s not really hair growth you are experiencing
While your hair may seem like it is getting thicker or growing faster, it actually is not. What’s really going on is higher levels of estrogen are prolonging the growth phase of your hair (hair is in one of the three stages of growth at any given time”>, and this results in less shedding.
2. Facial and body hair change, too
While your hair may appear fuller, there may be some hair sprouting in other places as well. Your facial and body hair may be growing faster while pregnant because of the increase in androgen hormones. Waxing, shaving or tweezing may be your only allies in this fight against facial and body hair, but know it is a temporary nuisance and they are all safe during pregnancy.
3. You may want to steer clear of lasers
Some women experience a lot of facial and body hair during pregnancy, and it can become unsightly and annoying. While permanent hair-removal techniques like laser and electrolysis are considered safe procedures during pregnancy, those hormones that cause excess pigmentation during pregnancy can also cause darkening of the skin after the hair removal procedures according to Nanette Silverberg, director of pediatric and adolescent dermatology at St. Luke’s-Roosevelt and Beth Israel Medical Centers in NYC. The good news is all that extra fuzziness should disappear within three to six months after your delivery. Do avoid bleaching creams and depilatories, as they can be absorbed into the skin.
4. The change continues after birth
The normal phase of hair loss (50 to 100 hairs a day shedding”> is delayed but once you deliver the baby, your hair returns to the normal cycle and the hair may end up falling out all at once.
Related: The Drastic Ways My Hair Changed After Pregnancy
How can I keep my hair healthy during pregnancy?
This is the right time to eat loads of healthy foods like fruits and vegetables to encourage healthy hair growth. Be super gentle with your hair, especially when wet, and avoid heat styling and tension hairstyles.
The biggest thing to remember is that the changes that are occurring to your hair and body during and after the baby are temporary. Within a few months a lot of what you were experiencing will dissipate and you will be back to semi-normal state. I say semi-normal because you are dealing with a newborn! That excess hair shedding is just your hair’s way of going back to its normal hair cycle that was delayed during pregnancy and that extra peach fuzz in unsightly places should be gone for good.
1. Shampoo can create tangles
We need to cleanse our hair and scalp. When using shampoo it often generates tangles because it lifts the cuticle, creating more friction between each strand. If you already have tangles and add shampoo you are only worsening them; this may be the reason your wash day is so long.
2. Tangled, matted hair gets worse when wet from water or shampoo
Severely tangled or matted hair needs to be worked on prior to adding water and shampoo. Oils, detanglers, and daily conditioners are best for hair in this state. Working through it while dry is going to leave you with more hairs on your head than when wet. The more tangles your create, the more you increase the likelihood for breakage.
3. Hair is most fragile when wet
Many curly girls are not fans of dry detangling as the thought of fighting through dry tangles sounds horrible. The problem is “dry detangling” sounds worse than it actually is. Use natural oils (many opt for coconut oil”> for more slip to lessen breakage on dry hair. Wide tooth combs or even a Denman brush is often used during dry detangling but most who do it prefer fingerdetangling.
4. Sectioned detangled hair means less time during wash
Unless you are rocking a TWA or a pixie cut, sectioning your hair before washing it will lessen the work during the process. That goes for detangled hair too. You know what I mean if you are in the shower long enough for your arms to hurt as you struggle with shampoo while you section and detangle. Already sectioned hair is easier to work the shampoo into and greatly reduces he potential for breakage.
What’s the best way?
For your best possible outcome, the best way to detangle is before and after you shampoo. That way you get it coming and going and are removing all the shed hair along with tangles and knots. Pre-poos are successful because they prime the hair for shampooing by coating, softening, and detangling the hair before cleansing. I always got tangles after shampooing until I started incorporating pre-poos. Right now I’m using fractionated coconut oil as a pre-poo and loving how it combats the necessary yet rough effects of my shampoo.
I usually remove most of the tangles when rinsing with shampoo, but I always find some still lingering around when I deep condition. Now, the shampoo may have created some but because I took care of most of them prior to shampooing, the detangling is always minor afterwards.
Whether you dry or wet detangle, use patience and the many tools that will allow for a more productive detangling session.
Follow Natalie Live (pictured above”> at The Tiny Closet and Instagram.
Question
Can I wash and go or not yet? I did my second big chop two months ago, my hair was very long, but very heat damaged because I’d get silk presses every two weeks. So here I am 6-7 inches less of hair and it’s in an asymmetrical bob when it’s straight short in the back longer in the front and shorter on one side than the other. But when it’s wet the back is completely curly Fro all that and the front has like no curl pattern still even after my hair cut. I want to know if I can wash and go also what products to use for my hair type? I don’t even know what that is?! Pls help!
Answer
You say the back has a curly fro but the front is straight. The problem could be the front needs more cutting. What you choose to use is really up to what works for your hair. Wash and go is my go-to style so I get the love for it and with your back being back to normal it seems it is ready for wash and go but your front is not. Not to worry, as there are options on how to handle this.
Fake it
You can do a partial wash and go by rolling the front with flexi rods or perm rods and allowing to dry. Bantu knots are another choice as well. The downside would be waiting for your hair to dry but this may only be an issue on wash day or whenever you wet your hair. Once the curls are in place and dry, you can rock the wash and go for a few days, making sure to protect it at night and scrunch in the morning for the hair to remember the style it was in.
Work with what you got
If you really desire the ease of the wash and go, you can simply scrunch the front and have more a wavy look in the front with your curls in the back. It may be a style you actually like. At night you can pin curl, Bantu knot, or roll the front to get second-day hair with your wash and go.
I would advise steering clear of the heat to avoid incurring more damage. By working with your texture you will find more styles that do not require heat. Make sure to deep condition after every wash, protect your hair at night with a satin or silk bonnet or pillowcase, and if the wash and go is just not working out then opt for all over styles like pin curls, perm rods, flexi rods, or traditional roller sets.
Read more: 6 Reasons Why Your Rollers Sets are Busted
Question
How can I hide the cowlick on the back of my head? I have 2b type hair and I have a massive cowlick on the back of my head. Because of this my part goes halfway down the back of my head even when I move my part to a different spot. Since I let my hair air dry, how can I hide this?
Answer
There are a few tricks to make a cowlick behave because cowlicks are just a lock of hair that grows in a different direction than the rest of the hair. They form in utero so once you have a cowlick that sucker is there forever. While it refuses to comply and cannot be corrected, you can get it to behave or at least fall in line enough to mask it. Here are some tips that should make you whip that cowlick into shape!
Make it fall in line
As if we need another reason to love being curly girls, curls actually help to mask a cow lick. The idea is to make the non-cowlick side mirror the cowlick since trying to fight the cowlick can be quite impossible sometimes. That may require placing clips in your hair while wet in the cowlick area so it complies nicely or placing a roller on damp hair to set overnight. While you won’t get rid of it, you can try and get it to curl in the direction of the other hairs while sleeping.
Strategic placement of hair products
Gels and pomade can work in your favor on making the cowlick lay as you want it to. While hair is wet, apply gel through the hairs in the cowlick and make sure to get the gel all the way to the roots. Styling product would be a great idea to help the hair hold into place with a blow-dryer with a diffuser attachment. If working on dry hair try a pomade. The object is to do the same thing by applying the pomade on the cowlick hairs from root to tip and style it in the direction you want it to set.
Heat styling
I hate to put this on the list but it is an option. Our curls are delicate so using heat too often (daily or weekly”> should not be a go-to for cowlick removals. Heat styling will allow the cowlick to comply with the pressure from the heat appliance and remember to use a good heat protectant, preferably one with silicones!
Rock it straight (without heat”>
The great thing about going straight when you are curly is that there are several ways to straighten your hair without using heat. Roller setting, Curlformers or banding are great ways to straighten the hair without heat and also force (at least for a little while”> the cowlick to lay in the direction of the other hairs.
Rock a cowlick-friendly style
Alright, not really getting rid of it but hey, on those days when you just don’t feel like fighting it or the cowlick unfortunately won the fight, just opt for styles that hides it altogether. Buns (high buns, low buns, side buns and messy buns”> are great, ponytails, hats, and scarves are not just great styles for bad hair days. They can mask a cowlick with ease and will get you out the door faster.
Question
Help. My hair is very thick. I want to cut parts in the middle of my hair to make it look thinner. Will that help? I’m just so frustrated and my hair is also frizzy and has high porosity. Any help minimizing thick and frizzy, high porosity hair?
Answer
There are specialized cuts for curly girls. While doing it yourself may be a bad idea, there are trained stylists who can help. Also, we can help with some de-frizzing techniques so your hair does not look even bigger.
The types of cuts great for curly hair
- The DevaCut – customized cut tailored to your curl pattern and ideal for women who rock the wash and go.
- The RI Cut – a cut designed to control curls by opening the interior to make room for all curls. The focus is on the weight and density of the hair.
- The Ouidad Cut – a cutting technique to remove the bulk some curlies have.
- The Tunnel Cut by Jonathan Torch – a cut designed to reduce bulk by strategically cutting thin tunnels that are not visible when the hair is worn both up or down.
What is the Ouidad Cut?
The Ouidad Carving & Slicing technique is a method created by Ouidad to remove the bulk of the hair while enhancing the natural curl pattern. This allows for well-defined curls, coils, and waves that fit together like puzzle pieces. Ouidad stylists have undergone rigorous training to not only master this technique but are able to walk you through what you want and what to expect afterwards. A stylist can be found with the Ouidad Salon Locator.
What is the Tunnel Cut?
The Tunnel Cut, created by Jonathan Torch of Curly Hair Solutions, is a controlled system to remove the bulk exactly where it needs it the most. Torch says “as with all curlies, no two cuts are ever the same, so the tunnels required for each person are unique, especially when considering where to place the tunnels and how thick each tunnel should be. It helps to remember that some loose curly heads have excess bulk and hair density, while some tight curls may have fine hair so tunnels are not necessary. As long as the tunnels are hidden, the issues of bulk and hair density are easily solved – and this is on looser curls! I understand that logic assumes that tighter curls would be the bulkiest, but all hair can have bulk and density issues.” Jonathan and his staff at the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto, Ontario are trained in this cut.
If you do not live near a Ouidad stylist or Curly Hair Institute these are not the only ways to fix the problem. There are talented stylists around the country who may not use these particular techniques but will be able to debulk your mid-section and help you out. Recommendations are great ways to find someone who may or may not do the Ouidad method but may still give you an awesome curly cut. Basically, a little homework is needed on your part to find the right hairstylist and again, I would advise against chopping in there on your own.
How to combat frizz
Having high porosity hair is challenging (I have it too”> but there are some ways to help your cuticle out and allow it to lie instead of being raised. Using regular (monthly is a good average”> protein treatments will help rebuild the cuticle temporarily and so will deep conditions after every wash. Steering clear of chemicals (coloring or straightening”> and heat since both damage the cuticle or may cause dryness allows moisture to leave the hair shaft as quickly as it entered. Once you moisturize, seal your hair to keep it in to stave off dryness and frizz.
What is ashwagandha powder?
Ashwagandha is one of the most powerful herbs in Ayurvedic healing and has been utilized since ancient times. Also known as Indian ginseng, ashwagandha belongs to the Solanacea family and its scientific name is Withania somnifera. A shrub, ashwagandha originated from India and grows ideally in dry environments. It actually belongs in the same family as the tomato and had oval leaves with yellow flowers that bear red fruit around the size of a raisin. The dried root are cut and sifted for tea or powdered so it can be found in multiple forms: fresh, dried, powder, or tablets.Native Americans and Africans have used ashwagandha for its medicinal properties and in Ayurveda for rejuvenating, physiological, and psychological reasons. The name ashwagandha translates into “smell of a horse” and a reference to its unique smell and the virility of a horse in inference to the traditional use of Ashwagandha to support male reproductive systems.
The benefits of ashwagandha powder for hair
Ashwagandha possesses powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which both aid in scalp health. It is a rich source of flavonoids that also possesses fatty acids, glucose, potassium, tannins, and nitrate. Ashwagandha actually contains tyrosine, an amino acid that stimulates the production of melanin, inhibiting the loss of melanin in hair. It combats free radicals, which aids in sun protection and slows down the aging process for skin and hair.
It has been reported to stop postpartum hair loss and often used in shampoos to help improve scalp circulation while strengthening the hair. The stimulation of the production of collagen and sebum helps to encourage healthy hair growth through its stimulation of DHEA. DHEA is naturally occurring hormone in the body, which slows down or reverses aging. Its anti-inflammatory properties are great for dandruff and other scalp ailments like eczema and scalp psoriasis.
4 ways to harness the benefits of ashwagandha for your hair
- Drink it – This can be found and taken orally through supplements or as a refreshing tea.
- Apply it – Another way to use it is to directly apply to the scalp and hair.
- Cocktail it – Just adding some powder or drops of oil to your shampoo you will relieve an irritated or inflamed scalp while increasing the blood circulation to the scalp aiding in healthier hair growth.
- Create a paste – Creating a paste with the powder and warm distilled water is yet another way to apply directly to your scalp and hair. Simply apply the paste to sectioned hair and massage into the hair and scalp with your fingertips. Cover with plastic cap and a towel for 30-45 minutes before rinsing well and styling as usual.
What if you could scientifically determine which products, regimens, and techniques that yielded beautifully healthy hair…would you do it? What if you could send a few shed hairs to a group of expert scientists to tell you what your hair needs? Would you try it? Well, if you have been waiting on a service to do just that then you may be in luck, as four engineers from Georgia Tech were set on a mission to transform the hair industry by creating hair care recommendation system.
What is Myavana?
Myavana is a hair care system that uses sample strands of your hair, taken from four areas of the head; only the strands that would come out when your hair is combed. Do not send cut samples. The hair samples are small, never saved, and are disposed of in an environmentally sound way. Once they get the strands they are taken to a lab where scientists analyze your hair. Assessing key hair characteristics down to the microscopic level that matches you with the best products and ingredients on the market. In about four weeks you will receive a report on your hair, recommended products, and regimen. You get 2-3 trial sizes of products and should notice results after the first wash. They recommend styles that work for your particular hair type and match you with a hairstylist in your area that specializes in your hair type. They also have hair care experts on hand to answer all of your questions during your journey.
What are the benefits of using Myavana?
- You don’t have to spend a bunch of time and money on finding the right products for you, they do that work for you.
- Naturals can become product junkies, which cannot only waste time and money but can also be damaging to their hair.
- This system helps you bypass the guesswork.
- This service is for all hair types.
These are product recommendations on a microscopic level. It definitely is a newer way to master healthy hair and with the boom in beauty subscription boxes, it aligns with what many women are doing already but taking out the guesswork to achieving what we all want: healthy, beautiful hair.
How much does it cost?
The analysis of your hair strand costs $75. This includes a “complete assessment of the current state of your hair” and comes with a “personalized hair care plan on how to reach your hair goals.”
If you want to do the hair analysis and receive full size products, services, content and support based on your results, there are several membership options: $30 every month for 3 months, $27 every month for 6 months, or $25 every month for 12 months.
The full size products come from brands such as Alikay Naturals, Design Essentials, Creme of Nature, Eden Bodyworks and Coco Curls.
Research and development has always played a major role in the beauty industry. This is a hybrid of hair care development that Techturized Inc., founded in June 2012, by four African-American female engineers from Georgia Tech who saw a need and began to fill it.
I will be trialling the system the 3 month membership myself so I will write a full review of my experience with the personalized hair consultation and the products in the coming months!
Who’s ready to take the plunge?
Question
My hairdresser has burnt my hair. My curls are fried & gone. How do I save my hair/get my curls back? She has bleached my hair so much that it’s broken off. It’s no longer curly but just fried. It looks like it was cut with a whipper skipper (lawn cutter”>. I used to have thick strong hair and now it’s not. What do I do?
Answer
Sorry to hear what has happened but fret not, as you are far from alone and there are ways to lessen the damage as well as bring your texture back to life either through DIY, OTC, or a combination of both. First, let’s discuss what bleaching is, what it does, and what you can do when it fires your strands.
What is bleaching?
Bleaching removes color from the hair by oxidation, and oxidation decolorizes the pigment in the hair shaft. This is why if left on too long it will turn the hair white. Bleaching is the most damaging of all the coloring methods and should be done professionally. Ammonia and hydrogen peroxide are the most common agents used in bleaching the hair. Bleaching raises the hair’s cuticle and allows the bleaching agent to fully penetrate the hair shaft. The actual amount of damage depends on the amount of color change. Going from a dark color to a light shade is more hazardous, as the bleaching agent is stronger and left on longer.
What does it do to your hair?
Expect your hair to drastically change after bleaching. Often women who bleach complain about hair turning rough and dry, but bleached hair is not limited to that. It can become straight (if curly”>, flat, or even brittle. The bleaching process strips the last drop of moisture from your strands as the cuticle is lifted to remove the pigment, transforming your strands to high porosity. Forget trying to revert back to your old color, as that is not going to happen. Your only option is to let it grow out.
What can you do if you incur bad damage after bleaching your hair?
First, let’s address bleaching itself. The process itself is damaging but everyone’s hair responds differently depending on the prior state of the hair, application, and maintenance. Some have minimal damage while others have severe and every variation in-between. The object when it comes to bleaching is to properly prepare your hair prior to the bleaching. Always ensure your hair is at its optimal health so you start with a great foundation.
Second, if you are experiencing dry, brittle hair with excessive breakage, it is likely you need a haircut. It is better to start growing your hair out with a nice shape than to have continuous breakage with uneven ends and no length retention. In the meantime, here are things you can change in your regimen.
Cut down on shampooing
Your hair is fragile from damage and that extra friction from shampooing is not going to help. You also do not need the added removal of natural oils that some shampoos (especially ones with sulfates”> are designed to remove. Do not eliminate shampoo from your regimen, but consider using gentler cleansing options like sulfate-free shampoos or oat water and possibly rotating a cleansing conditioner.
Steer clear of heat styling tools
We are trying to keep the moisture in and those types of tool tend to remove them.
Alternate between deep conditioners and protein treatments
Your cuticle has been damaged, making it more vulnerable to damage. Proper moisture-protein balance is essential. Strengthening the cuticle will help with moisture retention. It will take trial and error to find which products and frequency works for you. You can also try hot oil treatments with olive oil, coconut oil, or avocado oil to penetrate the hair shaft and rejuvenate your strands.
Read more: The Must-See Guide to the Best Protein Treatment for Your Hair
Why use ACV to cleanse?
The main element in vinegar is acetic acid, which can kill bacteria and prevent it from multiplying. Vinegar is a natural preservative and disinfectant, so is this why curlies are using this on their hair?
According to scientific consultant and NASA Educator Yolanda Anderson, “ACV (chemically known as acetic acid with a pH of around 3″> is an acid substance that lowers the pH of hair. This makes cuticles lie flat, thus increasing the amount of shine.”
What does pH have to do with hair?
If you need a refresher course on pH, our contributor Charlene Walton explains that “substances with a pH between 0 and 6.9 are acidic, 7 is neutral, while substances between 7.1 and 14 are alkaline. For example, relaxers rank higher on the scale with a pH normally around 13, pure water is neutral at 7, and apple cider vinegar (undiluted”> is on the opposite side of the scale around 3. A higher pH substance or product on the scale opens the cuticle and lower pH closes the cuticle.”
While ACV may successfully make your hair appear shinier or smoother initially, Anderson says “ACV will make hair dry and brittle stripping it of its’ natural oils even though initially providing extra shine.”
But does it work?
It depends, are you aiming to cleanse your hair or your scalp? As Dr. Kari Williams explains, the acetic acid in ACV “is a potent antimicrobial that can kill some types of bacteria,” making it an effective “homeopathic way of removing buildup and dead skin cells from the scalp.” A healthy scalp is crucial to growing healthy hair and avoiding common irritations such as flakes and bacteria.
In regards to cleansing the hair (not scalp”>, JC from The Natural Haven conducted an experiment in which she took close up images of the strands before and after washing them with shampoo, apple cider vinegar and baking soda. While shampoo did effectively remove oil from the strands, apple cider vinegar and baking soda both left a significant amount of oil on the strands. You can see the photos of her experiment here.
In summary, while ACV will effectively cleanse your scalp, it can leave your hair dry, brittle and dirty.
Read more: I Tried Apple Cider Vinegar as a Hair Cleanser, This is What Happened
Why use baking soda to cleanse?
The official name for baking soda is sodium bicarbonate and it works wonders in the fridge and freezer for removing funny odors. It has also been used as a toothpaste substitute and is commonly used in cooking. Anderson explains that, “baking soda is just as harsh on the hair. It has a pH of 9, which is more basic than water. Baking soda is a known alkaline irritant (on the other side of the pH scale”>. Alkaline shampoos strip the hair’s natural oils and disrupt the acid mantle, causing the hair to become dry leading to porous, fragile hair.”
Many curlies have turned to baking soda for clarifying their hair, but because baking soda has a pH of 9. The key to using baking soda without damaging your hair is to be sure to normalize the pH level by using a low pH level product afterwards, for example a diluted ACV rinse.
Read more: Pros and Cons of Baking Soda as Shampoo
The bottom line
According to Anderson, they both damage the hair in the same manner. Chemically speaking it, they may not be so great for our curls and coils, and while other ingredients may soften the blow, they can damage the hair to a degree. A safer way to use them is to use products that have those ingredients in their formulas, like SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Shampoo (I love this shampoo by the way!”>, which contain ACV, or Pureology Purify Shampoo for color-treated hair, which has baking soda. Another option is to add some of these ingredients to your current shampoo to provide that extra oomph without allowing it to damage your strands.
Read more: Dr. Kari Talks ACV, Baking Soda, Dr. Bronner’s, & Shampoo
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Question
Does benzophenone-4 build up on hair? The conditioner I use while co-washing includes benzophenone 4. I have learned that it’s just an UVB absorber but not sure if it’s safe for the CG Method and soluble in water.
Answer
Benzophenone-4 is a water-soluble UVA and UVB filter. According to Making Cosmetics, it is also readily soluble in propylene glycol, glycerin, ethanol, and isopropyl alcohol.
Read more: Protect Your Hair from the Sun
What is Benzophenone-4?
Benzophenone-4 is within a group of aromatic ketones that contain both UVB and UVA absorbing properties that filter block out harmful UV rays. They are often used in sunscreens but can be found in lip balms, perfumes, nail polishes, hair sprays, dyes, and even shampoos. While the water-soluble component may be good for using in a curly girl regimen, there are some other concerns about this ingredient. It also prevents the integrity of other ingredients from deteriorating under the sun.
Pros of Benzophenone-4
The FDA has approved the use of benzophenone-4 as a safe and effective OTC sunscreen ingredient for concentrations up to 10% while the EU Cosmetics Directive has said it was safe to use in OTC in concentrations up to 5%. It is quite effective in not only filtering out UV rays but also preventing other ingredients from being degraded by the sun. It does not penetrate the skin to a large degree but allows for other ingredients to do so.
Cons of Benzophenone-4
This chemical ultraviolet UV filter was tested over a 3-year period for allergens in patch tests. It showed to produce not only more positive patch test results than other UV filters but it also was the third most frequently positive result overall. Those experiencing an allergic reaction saw redness, swelling, itching, and fluid-filled blisters. They could develop immediately or over several days.
This ingredient may or may not work well for you in the Curly Girl Method, but unfortunately you will have to make that determination by using it to see how it fares with your CG routine. Of course if you notice swelling, itching, or redness, discontinue use.
Read more: Top 15 Products with UV Protection
Question
I’m planning to big chop soon I’m not sure to do the big chop before or after summer. I can’t decide! I’m not sure what is my hair type I believe it’s a mix of 3c 4a. I’ve been transitioning since May 2015.
Answer
When to BC is solely up to you. Some people use seasons—literally and figuratively—to decide when to cut the relaxed ends. You have almost transitioned for a year and that is a great stopping point, especially if a certain length is not your driving force for waiting. Here are some tips to determine if you are ready or should hold out a little longer.
This is your timeline
Sometimes we can be pressured into quitting the long-term transitioning for reasons that have nothing to do with us. Has someone told you it was time or that you should BC within a year? There are plenty of long-term transitioners going well into their second year who are happy with that path. Make sure this is something you are ready to do for yourself and not for anyone else or their preference.
List your pros and cons
Yes, that is a great way to determine if you are ready to chop it all off or continuing transitioning. Is it becoming too hard working with two different textures? Are you limited on style or are you looking for a new style to rock this spring and summer? When you figure out exactly what you want you will find the solution rather easily. Transitioning longer means working with longer hair and longer styles while cutting may mean a short sassy style to rock for this summer. Decide which path has more pros for you.
No pathway to going natural is actually better but one will be better for you.
Pick a style you want
This is another easy way to determine what to do. The style you want can decide if it is time to let those relaxed ends go. Finger coils and tapered cuts look best on short hair while there is more creativity with updos on long hair. With us being in spring and summer around the corner, a new style or cut may be just what you need.
Which way will be easier?
If long-term transitioning is requiring too much time and product application to work effectively on each texture, then the BC may be a way to avoid that. No pathway to going natural is actually better but one will be better for you. Going natural does not have to be hard so if cutting it off will make for easier manageability, then it may be time to let it go. Also, if buns are easier to style than a short haircut, then maybe transitioning longer is best.
What is healthier for your hair?
Make sure to ask yourself which is going to be the healthiest route to take now that you have almost made it a year long-term transitioning. Is it time to quit? Are you noticing breakage at the line of demarcation? Are the two textures making for harder detangling sessions or wash days? If so, then cutting the remaining relaxed ends might be optimal and lessening breakage and tangles.
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No one says you need to be a chemist, so we are happy to share what some of these terms mean, especially the ones in front of ingredients we are familiar with. You may see words like hydrogenated, hydrolyzed, and PEG in front of ingredients and it is vital we know what these words mean.
What is hydrogenation?
Hydrogenation is simply adding hydrogen to something. This is often done to make the product less susceptible to oxidation and spoilage and slow water loss from skin and scalp and form a barrier on the skin. Hydrogenated vegetable oil is a skin-conditioning agent or emollient. Hydrogenated castor oil (also known as castor wax”> helps soften hair and acts as a stabilizing agent.
What is hydrolyzed?
Hydrolyzed may be a word we are more familiar with since we discuss protein treatments and leave-in conditioners and their ingredients regularly. To hydrolyze is to break down the compound by chemical reaction and water. When discussing hydrolyzed wheat protein, the low molecular weight of the broken down protein allows it to be easily absorbed by or to penetrate the hair shaft. This is why we now know mayo and eggs are not effective as protein treatments for our hair, because the proteins in those ingredients are too big to attach to the hair shaft. Popular hydrolyzed proteins in hair products include hydrolyzed silk proteins, wheat, collagen, keratin, milk, and even soy.
Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work
What is PEG?
According to Tonya McKay, a curly-haired polymer scientist and cosmetic chemist, propylene glycol (also known as 1, 2 propanediol”> is a relatively small molecule with two alcohol (hydroxyl”> groups (-OH”>. It is a colorless, odorless liquid that is completely water-soluble. PEGs in hair products are effective humectants and can be used as surfactants and a preservative. One of the great properties about PEGs is that they will not cause buildup because they are water-soluble. You may see these in front of silicones, which means you get the slip and conditioning without the buildup.
Read more: PEG: Water-Soluble Silicones for Fighting Frizz
Why these ingredients matter
Hydrogenation allows ingredients and natural oils to last longer while maintaining effectiveness. Hydrolysis matters because without it the very proteins we need to strengthen the hair shaft need to be broken down to penetrate it. PEGs are water-soluble humectants that are excellent ingredients for our thirsty curls.
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Question
The back part of my hair is always dry no matter what I do. What can I do to fix it? The back is dry, frizzy, and undefined.
Answer
Sometimes we have to cater our products, techniques, and regimen to the problem directly. That just means you may have to alter what you use and do to the back of your hair in regards to the front. You are far from alone on having to do this. Dryness is nothing new to curlies so we just need to work at the problem in a concentrated way.
Use products needed for dryness exclusively for your problem area
Dry hair needs deep conditioning and moisturizing to impart moisture. While this needs to be done on all of your hair, make sure to add more in the back. I have to be heavy-handed with my tangle-prone section and make sure to never forget, as my hair will reward me with more tangles if I slack. When sealing, you may need to apply an oil or butter in sections to ensure even distribution.
Lay off the heat
Not sure if you are using heat styling tools, but direct heat can be drying, so steer clear of heat styling tools maintain better moisture. Using a hooded dryer while deep conditioning is a great way to make the conditioner work better, but flat ironing or blow-drying may need to be used less often to keep the dryness at bay.
Moisturizing hair masks
You can either find a DIY recipe like below or try a great hair masks like Curl Recovery Melt-Down Extreme Repair Mask or SheaMoisture Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair Nourishing Hair Masque.
Banana + Honey + Almond Oil Dry Hair Mask
- ½ ripe banana
- 2 Tbsp. honey
- Few drops of almond oil
Blend the banana, sift the chunks with a rice strainer, and mix the other ingredients together. Place in hair and leave on for 20 min. before rinsing well. Since you are experiencing dryness in the back of your hair, you can concentrate this on the problem area.
Different products for different sections
One of the best ways to get more moisture to your hair is to use specific moisturizing products on that section of hair. No one says you have to use all the same product on all sections of your hair. You may need a heavier moisturizer, oil, or butter in the back of your hair. Tailor your regimen to your hair’s needs.
Check how you are sleeping
Making sure you are sleeping on satin pillowcase or wearing a satin bonnet or scarf to prevent your cotton bedding (if you sleep on cotton”> from absorbing moisture and oils from your hair.
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Sugar beets are grown from seeds and sown in soils ranging from sandy to heavy clay. They grow between 2-4 lbs. and harvesting starts in late September to early October for summer crops in the warmer regions like Africa, South America, the Middle East, and southern Europe. Sucrose form sugar beets are the principle use for this particular beet in the United States and sucrose is widely used as a pure high energy food or food additive.
When it comes to hair, while traditional red beets have been used for dying hair red, sugar beets are white and not utilized in that way. Instead they have other beneficial properties that make them a must-try ingredient for hair.
What’s the difference between sugar cane & sugar beets?
Refined sugar can be made from both sugar cane and sugar beets. but they are different plants with unique chemical compositions along with growing in vastly different environments. Sugar or sucrose is naturally occurring in every fruit and vegetable, but most of the sugar in the world comes from either the sugar cane or sugar beets. Despite their similar uses and the easy ability to extract sugar from both of them, sugar beets and sugar cane are not one in the same. Sugar cane is a tropical grass grown in warm, moist climates and harvested by burning the leaves from the stalks before cutting them down. Sugar beets are grown underground and harvested from the ground before being washed, sliced, and put into a diffuser where water helps in extracting the raw sugar juice.
Benefits of sugar beet extract for hair
Packed with vitamins & minerals
Although not a good source of protein, they do have fiber, vitamin C, iron, and calcium. They also have a high content of silica, a trace mineral, which is ideal for healthy skin and scalp. It helps to strengthen blood vessels and improve circulation, which stimulates the blood flow to one’s scalp and encourages hair growth. As a vital component to skin’s connective tissues, it fortifies your bones, hair, and nails.
Moisture retention
All beets have betaine and it is the primary nitrogenous component of sugar beets. Betaine is an amino acid that acts as a humectant and anti-irritant when in cosmetic and hair products. Its composition allows it to retain moisture and give superior hydration without annoying stickiness associated with some glycerin-based products.
Anti-irritant
Betaine gives skin (scalp”> a hydrating calming effect that is ideal after using a harsh exfoliator that may cause irritation.
Products with sugar beets
While sugar beets are more often utilized as a sweetener than they are as hydrating, anti-inflammatory and anti-irritating beauty products, there are some products on the market that harness their goodness for hair.
The difference between regular molasses and blackstrap is that regular molasses is the first or second boiling of cane sugar syrup while blackstrap is made from the third boiling with iron levels increasing by 5%.
Benefits of blackstrap molasses
Blackstrap molasses contains vitamin B6, calcium, copper, iron, magnesium manganese, potassium, and selenium. It has the highest amount of antioxidants compared to refined sugar, corn syrup, raw cane sugar, and other available sweeteners. This is a safe sweetener for diabetics because unlike refined sugar, blackstrap molasses has a moderate glycemic load of only 55. It has a laxative quality and helps with headaches and fatigue. White sugar and corn syrup are virtually stripped of all nutrients except carbs and artificial sweeteners like saccharine and aspartame can sometimes cause health problems. Blackstrap molasses is by far a healthier and more satisfying sweetener option in the sugar wars.
4 reasons to use blackstrap molassess for hair
There are amazing reasons you need to try this natural sweetener for your hair.
1. The minerals & nutrients
Blackstrap molasses is chock-full with minerals and nutrients. Its high copper content helps the body to produce melanin, the pigment responsible for hair color. Those same nutrients help nourish and strengthen the strands.
2. Natural deep conditioning
It is also a rich natural deep conditioner that helps the hair to become silky and smooth. Consuming blackstrap molasses daily can contribute to overall good hair health over time while using externally will help to soften and add shine to grays.
3. The antioxidants
Copper is the powerhouse for better hair quality in the composition of blackstrap molasses with iron a close second but those antioxidants are not just sitting around doing nothing. Manganese is a potent antioxidant that contributes to healthy scalp by fighting free radical activities and oxidative stress. Stress affects hair just like it affects the rest of the body by contributing to premature aging and even hair loss.
4. Natural cleansing
Blackstrap molasses can also be used as a shampoo but the sticky thickness may be a turn off. One way is to dilute the molasses with water or mixing with hair-friendly ingredient like coconut milk and allow it to sit on the scalp for 15 min. Wash it off with warm water and those nutrients will have nourished and cleansed your scalp effectively. If that does not sound appealing, there are other solutions just as effective will less of a sticky mess.
Blackstrap Deep Conditioning Hair Mask
Want to try molasses right away? Here’s a deep conditioning hair mask that requires just a few ingredients and will leave your hair and scalp feeling silky and smooth.
What you’ll need
- 2 tbsp. blackstrap molasses
- ¼ cup plain whole-milk yogurt
- 1 Tsp. ACV
- 2 drops rosemary essential oil (optional”>
Directions
Whisk together all ingredients except rosemary well. Add essential oil after mixed and massage into scalp and hair. Cover with shower cap and leave on up to 15 min. before shampooing. Style as usual.
Have you tried blackstrap molasses and if so ever for your hair?
