Search Results: Rebecca Mariolis

Silicone Hair Products are Killing My Waves!
Little girl

Dear Rebecca:

I’m a relatively new wavy hair girl, type 2A/2B, depending on how my hair wants to behave that day. I don’t use heat styling tools or any chemical treatments on my hair, so there’s no damage. After battling with loss of elasticity and a horrible brittle feeling, I learned that my hair hates protein. Anything with protein in it will leave my hair feeling damaged with little to no bounce. Silicone hair products also make my hair feel slimy or waxy, and they remove most of the wave.

Down to my question: I’d love to have a lightweight creme-type styling product for days when I just let my hair air-dry. Something that will help hold the wave without crunchiness or stiffness, and that will help with frizz. My only difficulty is that every time I find a promising product, it either has proteins, silicones or both. Do you have any product recommendations for me?

Dear Hair Twin:

Don’t despair. Many other wavies haven’t had much luck with protein or silicone hair products. What you need is a good leave-in conditioner. This, I’m all too familiar with because, seriously, we’re hair twins! A good leave-in conditioner will provide moisture to your hair, help eliminate frizz, and add definition to your waves. You’ll instantly be able to tell the difference in your hair when it air dries. I recommend a creamy leave-in conditioner like Design Essentials Hydrate Leave-In Conditioner.

Apply Hydrate after your hair has been cleansed and conditioned. Apply a nickel to quarter size amount, depending on the length of your hair, and gently comb Hydrate through your strands. Allow your hair to air-dry. The result should be soft, silky hair without frizz! If you find you are in need of something lighter, try a spray leave-in conditioner. I heart Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner. It gives the right amount of weightless moisture to any type of hair. Just lightly mist, comb, and go! I think you will be extremely happy with your hair.

Good luck, twin!

No-Frizz Styling Tips for Wavy Hair

Little girl

Dear Rebecca: 

I’m a relatively new wavy hair girl, type 2a/2b depending on how my hair wants to behave that day!  I don’t use heat styling tools or any chemical treatments on my hair, so there’s no damage.  After battling with loss of elasticity and a horrible brittle feeling, I learned that my hair hates protein. Anything with protein in it will leave my hair feeling damaged with little to no bounce.  Silicones make my hair feel slimy or waxy and they remove most of the wave.

Down to my question: I’d love to have a lightweight cream type styling product for days when I just let my hair air-dry. Something that will help hold the wave without crunchiness or stiffness, and that will help keep my no-frizz style.  My only difficulty is that every time I find a promising product, it either has proteins, silicones or both. Do you have any product recommendations for me?

Dear Hair Twin:

It sounds like you are in need of a good leave-in conditioner (this I’m all too familiar with because seriously, we are hair twins”>. A good leave-in conditioner will provide moisture to your hair, help eliminate frizz, and add definition to your waves. You’ll instantly be able to tell the difference in your hair when it air dries.

I recommend a creamy leave-in conditioner like Design Essentials Hydrate Leave-In Conditioner. Apply the product after your hair has been cleansed and conditioned. Apply a nickel to quarter size amount depending on the length of your hair, and gently comb it through your strands. Allow your hair to air-dry.

The result should be soft, silky no-frizz hair! If you find you are in need of something lighter, try a spray leave-in conditioner. I heart Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner. It gives the right amount of weightless moisture to any type of hair. Just lightly mist, comb, and go! I think you will be extremely happy with your hair.

Good Luck, Twin!

Curly Hair Q&A: Is Short Curly Hair Easier?

Dear Rebecca: My whole family has curly hair. I’ve fought through just about all the problems, from keeping it easy, drying my hair and determining what product works for me. I only have one problem: I am really busy, and I have really long curly hair. I take a shower at night because I don’t have time in the mornings before school. But when I wake up, my so-called luscious locks are a frustrating frizz.

I’ve tried everything from braids to hair wraps—nothing works. What am I to do? And should I cut my hair? I don’t like spending a lot of time on my hair. Is short curly hair easier to take care of? Can I have bangs? I’m so lost and I’m dying for a change. What can I do? HELP!


Dear Sweet Frizz: Okay, I hear you. You are ready for a change, something different. But before you dive into bangs or a short haircut, take the time to search out a look that you want. Then make an appointment with a curly hair stylist. This is soooo important because the stylist will use your pictures (of what you’ve researched”> to guide you and give you realistic expectations with all of your ideas. They may have a few suggestions of their own.

I will also say that if you are having difficulties with the length of your hair, you may want to simply evaluate the length. Obviously the length will determine the amount of time you must spend on it (longer hair—long time, shorter hair—shorter time”>.

I wish you well on your journey, and I’m sending you good hair vibes.

Curly Hair Q&A: Rebecca Mariolis – No-Frizz Tips for Fabulous Prom Curls
Ask Rebecca Mariolis

This is what my hair looks like with a ton of product.Ask Rebecca MariolisThis is an example of what my hair is really like, but I think mine may have more curl.

Dear Rebecca: I am convinced that I have some of the worst curly hair around. It’s somewhere between type 3 and type 3c I believe. It is copper red, dry, very coarse, and frizzy. No matter what I do to it or put in it, it will always frizz. It is poofy! Without product in it, I will have a fro. I cannot wear it straight because it refuses to stay straight in any weather condition. My roots refuse to straighten and my hair will poof in a matter of minutes. When wearing it curly I put a ton of mousse and gel in it. The front is okay but the back always frizzes. In order for me to get my hair under control, I have to put so much mousse and gel in it that it feels like plastic. It feels like it would break if you were to bend it. I need help. I am 17 and have been dealing with this my whole life. I have senior prom coming up and I would absolutely love to be able to wear my hair down. I like my curls. I just want to know how to work with it.

Dear Young and Full of Hope: Okay, these are words to live by: “Moisture, now and forever.” The best way to control your beautiful curls (and yes, I said beautiful”> is to begin with a healthy hair regimen and a great styling plan.

1. Begin with a moisturizing shampoo, followed by a moisturizing conditioner.

2. Allow the conditioner to remain on your hair for 10 – 15 minutes then comb through to remove any tangles.

3. Always, always rinse with cool, or lukewarm water (this seals your cuticle and locks in the moisture”> when rinsing your hair.

4. Towel blot your hair, then apply a leave-in conditioner or treatment. Gently (and I mean gently”> comb the product through your hair.

Styling

When wearing curls, try first using a shine serum, then follow with a styling gel. Comb through, then diffuse (only if you really need to”> until the hair is about 80% dry.

By applying the shine serum first, you create a sort of seal over the cuticle to give the gel a better no-frizz hold.

If wearing straight, begin by styling with a smoothing styling product. I really like something with a silicone base because it tends to work better, and last in many different conditions.

1. Apply a generous amount to your ends first.

2. Slowly work towards your roots with the remaining product on your hands.

3. Then comb through, and begin air-forming your hair by finger combing your hair to get it about 80% dry.

4. Once 80% dry, take a large paddle brush, and work your dryer while brushing your hair in a downward motion.

5. Once completed, section your hair into manageable sections and style using a medium temperature styling iron.

6. Once the hair is smooth and straight, apply a smoothing serum (or shine serum”> like Design Essentials Silk Essentials to add immense shine to the beautifully finished hair. The result will be a beautiful, no-frizz finish, and stunning prom curls.

Curly Hair Q&A: Seeking Moisture Without Stickiness

Dear Rebecca: I have kinky hair when it is in its natural state. I had a permanent curl/wave chemical product applied to my hair and am looking to find the best hair care system to keep it moisturized without it feeling greasy and sticky, all the while maintaining well-defined, silky wavy/curly hair. Do you have any suggestions?

Dear Beautifully Kinky: Have you tried the Design Essentials Natural? I’m loving the entire system! For natural hair, you are absolutely correct. The most important thing is to keep your hair fully moisturized. All of this starts with your maintenance. Try shampooing your hair only once every other week.

Shampooing

When you do shampoo your hair, be sure to use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. When preparing to condition, make sure you towel-blot your hair first to remove excess water. This will allow the conditioner to fully penetrate. Once applied, take a wide-toothed comb, and beginning at the nape of your neck, gently comb the conditioner through the hair. Now the next step is very important. Let the conditioner absorb into your curly hair for a minimum of 10 minutes. Then rinse with cool-to-warm water. Now you’re ready to begin styling. Start with a moisturizing leave-in conditioner and follow with your styling product. To maintain your curl definition and moisture, try Design Essentials Natural Daily Moisturizing Lotion. It is absolutely fantastic! To refresh your style during the week between shampooing, just lightly mist your hair with water or a leave-in conditioner to re-shape your curls. You’ll love it.

Dear Rebecca: I have tight curly/kinky hair in the back but loose wavy/curly hair in the front. Do you have any suggestions on how to try to make my hair look like one texture instead of two? When I do the wash ‘n’ go I have to put more product in the front to try to obtain a curly look.

Dear Two Textures: A great solution is to fake it! Try using flexi rods (similar to straws, and can be found at Sally’s”>. Find a rod that is a similar size to your back curls. Then set the hair using your favorite styling/setting product. Just make sure it is a moisture-filled product. If that doesn’t work, try flat twists using a styling crème gel like Design Essentials Natural Defining Crème Gel. Be sure to sit under a hooded dryer to completely dry. This will help to eliminate frizz and to set your curl pattern. Pull out the twists and separate and define each section using a serum-type product. Finish with a light sheen spray for additional shine. Either one of these should help your hair have one personality… at least for a week or two.

Design Essentials

Design Essentials hair care products

Dear Rebecca: My hair is mostly type 2b/2c on top, but quite straight on the bottom. I’m not sure if this is because of how my stylist layers it (she doesn’t do curly cuts”> or just the way my crazy hair is. The result is that I have lots of waves on top, but then a straight bottom layer peeking out from under the waves—and it looks hideous. What kind of cut should I ask for to correct this? What kind of products should I use?

Dear Halfway Curly: Yes, all curl patterns are not created equal. I think you should follow your instincts and find a stylist who specializes in curly divas. They should be able to give you a cut that will flatter your hair enough to rejuvenate your curl pattern in straighter pieces. (They may also be able to be the unfortunate bearer of bad news that your waves and curls are only in one place.”> Be sure to go to someone who has experience with lovely locks like yours.

Dear Rebecca: My daughter AND I have naturally curly hair. I’m a 3b3c; my daughter is 3a. After over 10 years of straightening with flat irons and about 3 years of straightening my daughter’s, we’ve both ended up with the right side maintaining its natural definition and the left side stretching out significantly. We both like the left side as this means less products if we go curly. We need suggestions to stretch out the right side. I tried diffusing but it’s so time consuming. I’ve thought of putting a mild relaxer, but I’m afraid of the additional damage that might cause. Any suggestion on a healthy medium?

Dear Halfway Twins: A healthy alternative would be to refrain from using heat, and allow the curls to naturally fall. But it sounds like the right side is just a little tighter than the left. So here’s my recommendation. After shampooing and conditioning with Design Essentials Natural, apply Design Essentials Daily Moisturizing Lotion. Then try wrapping the hair starting with the left side with minimal tension. As you work towards the right, really try to pull the hair a little tighter. If you do this when the hair is wet, it will actually pull the hair shaft in a straighter position. You could also lightly blow dry the right side of your head using your fingers to gently pull your curl pattern in a more straight position. This should help to pull some of the tightness out of the right side. If this sounds like a little much, then I would recommend visiting a salon professional for a consultation about a texturizers (not a relaxer”>. They will be able to touch, feel and assess the current state of your hair. From there, they’ll be able to recommend the best steps moving forward.

Here’s to matching curl days!

Dear Rebecca: I would love if you could give me some advice on my really tight, dry hair. I’m almost to the point of returning back to a relaxer. I don’t know how to stretch my hair and not have a problem with frizziness. I now this email is all over the place but that’s how I feel about my hair. I’m interested to know about the silkening technique, are you still natural after you get it?

Dear Naturally Frustrated: Okay, the great thing about silkening your hair with Design Essentials and pHusion is you get straight, silky hair that is chemical-free! Our process of silkening leaves hair in its healthiest, shiniest state by sealing in moisture. A salon professional cleanses, conditions, blow dries and finishes your hair by styling it with a ceramic or titanium iron. So yes, it is a 100% chemical-free service that allows for maximum versatility. More importantly, your hair will still be natural. I would recommend researching salon professionals in your area, or checking our Salon Locator on designessentials.com for a Design Essentials Professional near you.

Curly Hair Q&A: I Want Hair Like Jada Pinkett Smith’s
Jada Pinkett Smith

Dear Rebecca: I want to make my hair is as curly curly as Jada Pinkett Smith‘s hair. I used to have puffy, afro-like hair, but I got it permed and when I blow dry it, I want to try to make it curly. How do I do that and what products do I use to make that type of hair?

Dear Curls Wanted: Ok, I’m not sure what you mean by a perm. Did you receive a relaxer, or an actual permanent wave that makes hair curly? I’m assuming that you received a relaxer as many people still refer to a relaxer as a perm. So once you have removed the curl from your hair with a relaxer, it is permanently altered and straightened. The best way to achieve Jada’s natural curls would be with a flexi rod set. A flexi rod comes in many different sizes but I would recommend using the yellow flexi rod which is the same size as a drinking straw. Here’s my step-by-step recommendation:

  1. Shampoo and condition the hair.
  2. Apply a leave-in conditioner.
  3. While the hair is damp, apply a moisturizing cream gel like Design Essentials Natural Defining Creme Gel. This product has fantastic hold, and provides beautiful long-lasting sheen!
  4. Part the hair into four quadrants and take a 1-inch x 1-inch section. Comb the product through, ensuring saturation. Then wrap the hair around the flexi rod. Continue this throughout the hair until the entire head is covered with flexi rods.
  5. Finish by sitting under a hooded dryer until the hair is completely dry.
  6. Remove all the flexi rods, making sure that you remove them in the direction that keeps the curl in a ringlet formation.
  7. To really make your curls pop, finish your style by applying Design Essentials Daily Moisturizing Lotion, to separate and define each curl.

You will love your finished look. Good luck with your curly locks!!

Dear Rebecca: I have 2a/2b wavy hair that I guess I never knew I had since I’ve always blown my hair dry—I always figured that it was so “in-between” that it would be better straight!! Anyway, I am now embracing my waves/curls and would like to enhance them and have more. I have started going shampoo-less just this month; I am using salt water water spray and flax seed gel. I seem to get a lot of flyaway frizzies, though. I no longer live in the U.S. and do not have access to many of the products mentioned on NaturallyCurly. Do you have any suggestions for some good homemade moisture?? I am assuming that it is what I need—however, I am afraid that it will weigh down the waves too much and straightening them. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanx so much.

Dear Embracing Curls: Where are you living? It sounds exotic and wonderful!! This homemade moisture combination was recommended to me by my beautiful grandmother. It is an ancient Aztec remedy for adding moisture to the hair. You will need 1 avocado, moisturizing shampoo, a bowl, and olive oil. Shampoo the hair first with a moisturizing shampoo, towel blot the hair. Then in the bowl, mix a large avocado, and 1tsp. of olive oil. Mix it as best you can until the mixture is smooth. Apply to your hair starting with the ends first. Follow by applying it completely all over on the hair. Wrap your hair in plastic wrap (obviously something the Aztec’s wish they’d had”> and let the treatment penetrate the hair for 15-30 minutes. Once completed, rinse the mixture thoroughly from the hair. The natural fatty acids from an avocado will be an excellent source of moisture and provide immense sheen. If you feel that there is too much weight, lightly shampoo the hair to remove excess moisture. In small sections, maybe 2inches by 2 inches, twirl (with fingers”> the hair in its natural curl pattern (ensuring that the hair is moist while manipulating it”> then allow the curls to air dry. I believe your hair will be full of sheen with beautifully defined loose waves. Do this remedy once a month until you are able to purchase some Design Essentials Natural products for maintenance for your curly hair.

Dear Rebecca: I was wondering if you could give me some tips for nighttime hair. I’ve tried the pineapple technique but I find the pieces around my face sometimes get pulled straight. I have the same problem when I put my hair in a loose bun for showering. Maybe I’m not using the right products around my face. I am Caucasian; my hair type seems to be 2a around the front of my face and 3c in the back.

A: There are many ways to maintain your curls at night. Two common practices are sleeping with a satin bonnet on your hair and sleeping with a satin pillowcase on your pillow. But, I find for your curl pattern a really good way to maintain 2a curls is to pin-curl them before you go to bed. Pin curling is a simple way of pinning the curl in its natural resting place. This gently keeps your curls in place while you sleep. All you will need are small clippies, or bobby pins (you can pick them up from your local beauty supply”>. Depending on the size of the curl, take 1 inch by 1 inch sections and gently twist the curl around your finger. Then push the hair off the finger on to the head, and pin. Continue this technique by pin-curling the areas where you want to preserve your curls overnight. You may find that you need something to control the frizz in the morning. If so, try Design Essentials Natural Daily Moisturizing Lotion. It separates and defines the curls while creating lasting sheen. For morning styling, you can pin curl your hair right after you cleanse and condition. I do this to my hair when it’s damp and leave it in while I get my babies and myself ready. Then, (so I don’t embarrass my babies at school”> I remove all pin curls before I leave the house. It really works to activate your curls, and it gives great bounce.

Dear Rebecca: I’m 20 years old and African American. I just did my big chop last Monday and I was wondering what products or procedures do I need to do/use in order to develop my curl pattern? When my hair is wet, it’s extra kinky. In addition, I was wondering what is a good shampoo to use that’s not extra harsh or has less sulfate than the most?

A: CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR BIG CHOP!!! This is big ☺. I’m loving the new Design Essentials Natural line for the maintenance of curly hair. All their products contain natural botanicals and essential oils that really help to maintain beautiful, natural hair. Try the Design Essentials Natural Curl Cleanser and Natural Conditioner. I would highly recommend the DE Natural Daily Moisturizing Lotion for daily moisture. If desire more length to your now shorter hair, use the Design Essentials Natural Curl Stretching Crème. You’ll get excellent sheen and separation. Trust me, you will not be let down with this combination!! Also, start to lengthen the time between shampoos. This will also help to define your texture.

Curly Hair Q&A: Moisturize That Frizzy Hair!

Dear Rebecca: My hair naturally is straight on top and wavy to kinky underneath. I hate blowing it out in the summer so I got a perm, which I love. I haven’t had a perm since the ’80s so I don’t really know how to take care of it and make the curls look their best! I’ve been using DevaCurl No-Poo, One Condition and Set up and Above. I like the naturalness of these products but frankly, I think they smell like wet dog and my curls are still a little frizzy. I use a “Turbie Towel” to wrap my wet head after showering…. perhaps I should switch to something else? I try very hard not to touch it when it’s wet as I’ve heard that can cause frizz… I just don’t know what to do! Please help! (P.S: I also color my hair.”>

Wet Hair

Dear Summer Curl: Okay, the thing about curls is above all else they need moisture. Curls are most defined with minimal frizz when they are moisturized. As far as the maintenance, I recommend shampooing your hair at most 3 times per week. When doing so, shampoo your hair with a moisture-intensive shampoo (probably sulfate-free as it a gentle cleanser”>, and follow with a moisturizing conditioner.

Towel-blot your hair before applying the conditioner. Then apply the conditioner beginning at the ends and working it through the roots. Comb through using a wide-toothed comb, removing all tangles from the hair. Allow the conditioner to remain on the hair 5-10 minutes and rinse using lukewarm water. When finished, gently towel-blot the hair to remove all excess water. Begin your styling regimen by applying a leave-in conditioner.

Curly girls, I prefer a crème leave-in conditioner like Design Essentials Hydrate Leave-In Conditioner. Hydrate will intensely moisturize your curls and help to minimize frizzy hair, as well as encourage separation. Apply a nickel- to quarter-size amount into the palms of hands, emulsify and apply. Now, this is when styling curly hair gets fun. You have the option for numerous styles like soft and defined ringlets, or wavy and loose curls. I recommend using a curling crème gel to achieve your desired look. Try Design Essentials Natural Defining Crème Gel. This product should be applied to damp hair using ample amounts of product to ensure curl definition. For more curl definition, try twisting your curls creating long individual twists. Let hair air dry, or use a diffuser to gently dry the hair. Your curls will be defined with minimal to no frizz.

Dear Rebecca: This past February I had the Brazilian Blowout done, then in May I had it done again, this time using a weaker version. My hair is pretty straight.

Normally I have very curly hair, corkscrew type of curls. I was hoping for something that would eliminate all the frizz, and simply loosen the curls. I didn’t want something that would take them away completely. The straight hair looks very pretty; however, I’m hoping for a happy medium. Something that will still leave my curl, and some volume, but take away that awful frizz, and also that feeling like my hair is a helmet. If you will recommend a treatment like the Brazilian though not as severe, that will still leave my curl, I’d be very grateful to you.

Dear Miss Frizz: Let me begin by saying we all feel you when it comes to frizz. I find that typically you cannot 100% eliminate frizz. But, there are some definite ways of controlling it. The hair usually frizzes in response to being moisture-deficient, overly manipulated, and sometimes cut with the wrong tools. I would estimate that your hair now feels a little dry, and appears dull. Do not worry! You can heal your hair. Try a moisturizing treatment, beginning first with a clarifying treatment to remove all impurities on the hair, then shampoo with Design Essentials Moisture Retention Shampoo. You will immediately feel the results after shampooing.

I love, love, love Design Essentials Stimulations Super Moisturizing Conditioner. It replenishes the hair with moisture and protein leaving the hair feeling rejuvenated. So be sure try Stimulations and remember to towel-blot your hair to remove excess water before applying this conditioner. Allow Stimulations to infuse your strands for 15 minutes and rinse with cool water. The cool water closes the cuticle layer of the hair, locking in moisture and leaving the hair feeling soft and silky. As I said above, the key to taming frizzy hair is always using a leave-in conditioner. Think of leave-in conditioners like your purse, you would never leave the house without it!

Now on a daily basis, try using a moisturizing agent to re-hydrate your curls, and style. Wave by Design 2N1 Define and Shine is an excellent way to rehydrate curls, and define with shine. It’s really simple to use too. Apply a quarter-size amount to palms emulsify and apply to hair focusing on defining each curl with hands. Remember not to over manipulate or play too much with your hair. This will cause frizz. Manipulate just enough to where the curl is defined and beautiful. You’ll be able to enjoy your style all day.

Dear Rebecca: All my life, 50 years, I have had curly hair. Sometimes I hated it because it was so curly. During humid days it was super curly. I started to use a round brush and a Chi blow dryer. Also I used the Chi flat iron. Now I have lost all my curls and is totally straight and dry. Please tell me what I did wrong and is my curly hair is coming back again. I guess I did not hated it that much. My hair is so dry and brittle. Any advice? I do condition every time I wash it.

Dear Lost Curls: Without seeing your hair in person it may be difficult for me to accurately tell you what happened. My guess is that you may have overly styled your hair, therefore changing the texture from curly to straight. It is also possible that a change in medication, hormones, and lifestyle change can cause your curls to leave. I’m going to ask you do one thing to determine if your change in texture is due to styling or the causes I referenced above. When your hair is wet, look at the root to see if there is any texture or wave pattern trying to form. If so, you may be in luck and your hair might just need some moisture to help rejuvenate those lost curls.

Now if you don’t see any texture or wave, then it is possible your texture has changed. If you’re really unhappy with your hair, then you may want to consider visiting your hairstylist for a cut. Or, you may learn to love your new look! Also take a break from the blow dryer and flat iron. Try wearing your hair in a low-maintenance style to help the hair recover from thermal damage. Finally, begin shampooing your hair less to help preserve moisture as well.

Dear Rebecca: Are there any products on the market now that will relax color-treated, naturally curly hair? A long time ago I had straighteners put on my hair and then I lost ALL the body along with the curl. My curls are tight and I tried layered haircuts (which never worked for me”>. It is mostly one length now and when it’s wet, it is about shoulder length but shrinks considerably as it dries. I want some curls but wonder if they can be loosened a bit so I will have length. I color treat my hair about every 5-6 weeks, so I don’t want anything that will damage my hair.

What do you recommend?

Dear Curly Color locks: Here is the great thing about color… it actually helps to relax curls! I don’t recommend chemically straightening your curls. This will most definitely cause serious damage by placing one chemical (color”> over another (straightener”>. But there is way for your curls to relax without chemicals. Try straightening your curls 1-2 times a week. Your curls will be forced to temporally relax because they are being thermally straightened. You will see a working change by alternating between straight and curly. This will also easily relax your curls with minimal to no damage. Be sure to use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Of course, do not forget your leave in conditioner to maintain moisture. Finally, apply a moisturizing styling product like a silicone based styling serum to your hair prior to straightening. Silicone is really great because when heated, it expands and can create a protective barrier around the hair shaft to protect the hair from heat. Looking forward to hearing about your beautiful results.

Curly Hair Q&A: Beating Humidity

Dear Rebecca: I have 3b3c natural, curly hair and I live in the island of Jamaica. Last Wednesday I washed my hair with a moisturizing shampoo, deep conditioned and then applied a creamy moisturizing leave-in with a firm holding gel to 11 sections of my hair which were put in 11 box braids/plaits. I then set the ends on perm rods and yesterday decided to take my hair down in the morning for an evening event. Before undoing each braid, I rubbed a little emollient (a waxy product”> on the entire braid. I fluffed the hair and achieved a lovely braid-out of defined yet fluffy waves with curls at the ends . . . I was pleased. Throughout the day my style kept up and I ensured that I kept cool by sitting in front of the electric fan for most of the day. Then in the afternoon the rain came down heavily and although I was inside my hair turned into a MESS!!! I looked like what they call a “wet rat”. My hair just flopped and hung in a lifeless, droopy way with no volume. My mood also changed. I really was disappointed. I’ve heard random things about humidity and curly hair . . . I’ve often heard that humidity is a curly girl’s friend. Why did it act as my enemy? help? What products are good for my hair type—a loose curl in a very hot and humid climate. How often should I wash my hair? Any advice?

Dear Disappointed in Jamaica: Yes! Humidity can be a curly girl’s friend … with the right style and being dependent on your curl pattern, of course. With a tighter curl pattern, humidity can almost be your enemy. But don’t despair. I have a solution, and I think you will be pleased with the results. Start with a deep cleansing shampoo to remove product build-up and salt deposits from the hair. Then follow with a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner to replenish moisture. Be sure you’ve rinsed the conditioner thoroughly from the hair, then towel blot. Now these are my suggestions for styling. This time, try mixing Design Essentials HCO with Design Essentials Masterpiece Concentrated Setting Lotion (try a 1 oz HCO to 1 oz Masterpiece mixture”>. Combine both products in a spray bottle and continue to style the hair as you had before, spraying each section as you braid. Finish each braid with a perm rod. Here is the most important step in this styling process; sit under a dryer until the hair is dry! This helps to truly set the style and ensures a lasting style. Once the hair is completely dry, slowly take out the braids. Finally, spray oil sheen on your hair for a final touch of shine. This will add a little bit of weight to help minimize the frizz.

Dear Rebecca: My hair is naturally curly and has always been great but lately it has been flat on top. I tried switching the mousse I use but that hasn’t worked. My hair is right at the neck so I know it isn’t the weight. It is so annoying because the first 1/4 inch out of the root is just straight and then goes crazy with curl. What can I do to fluff up the top?

Dear Curls on bottom flat on top: A simple haircut can sometimes help to add volume back to curls. Adding layers to curly locks can also help curls spring back. Another suggestion is to use the right shampoo. Moisturizing shampoos can sometimes weigh hair down which limits volume. So, you may need to find a gentle cleansing shampoo and follow with a lightweight conditioner. If you are still not seeing volume after you cut or layer your hair and change shampoos, try using a volumizing product like a mousse or volume tonic that encourages volume. Apply these products on damp hair following your leave in conditioner (always a must”> then dry your curls with a diffuser, paying attention to each area lacking volume.

Dear Rebecca: I used to have a very natural curly hair all my life, but after giving birth to my second baby my curls vanished, my hair now is very very straight….what can i do now?? Help please!

Dear Curl Mommy: Congratulations on the new little one!! Believe it or not, when you have a baby your body compensates for all the changes in strange ways. These changes can cause your hair to do crazy things. My suggestion would be to love the hair you are in. Your hair may or may not revert back to its original state but if it doesn’t at least enjoy your newly found straight hair. Think of it as a new you !! Good luck!

Christmas tree

Dear Rebecca: I have Type 3c curly hair. It currently is long past my shoulder, but the curls “nest” at my neckline when my hair dries. I am going to get my hair cut tomorrow. Is there any advise for how I should cut it, to avoid the nesting curls at my neck. Plus, I feel like my hair at times looks like a Christmas tree. I just want some help on what to do.

Dear Christmas Tree: You may want to try a new haircut, like rounded layers. Rounded layers work beautifully on naturally curly hair because it allows the curls to be full and bouncy without looking like a “Christmas Tree”. This will work with your length to balance the curls (even the tight ones at your neck”> to appear as if you meant for them to rest at your neck. I would recommend styling with an emollient with hold. I really like TIGI Manipulator. It will define and hold, allowing for manipulation all day long.

Curly Hair Q&A: I Have a Straight Patch!

Dear Rebecca: I had my last relaxer in May ’08, and big chopped on August 1, 2009. In between that period, I only professionally had my hair blown out and flat ironed 3 times. The reason I said that, is to rule out heat damage. Now, I have about a 4 inch x 4 inch patch of hair smack dab in the front of my head (bang area”> that will not bend. The rest of my hair will curl. I’m open to all suggestions to help me fix this.

A: Unfortunately, this can be due to your natural growth and curl patterns. For example, some people’s hair grows faster on the right side than the left. Others, like you, experience varying curl patterns (kinky, curly, wavy, and straight”> from area of the head to another. And you may not know this. But heat damage can still occur with limited usage. Too high heat can permanently straighten hair.

To achieve a more consistent curl or wave pattern, try manipulating wet hair with a foaming mousse like Design Essentials Compositions. Work the mousse into your hair, and set the curl with a diffuser on a low heat setting. This will help enhance and force the wave or curl pattern in your hair to create a more even, defined texture.

Dear Rebecca: I feel like I have too much hair. My hair is very dense and dry, and “underneath” my hair gets really tight, dry, and knotted. Another thing is, even though I have kind of fine hair I feel like I have too many individual hairs on my head. But I feel like even when my hair is soaking wet, it’s not REALLY wet and just the top got wet. I’ve tried texturizing my hair and that just made my hair curlier than I wanted and when it grew out it looked really fuzzy and still dense, dry, and too many hairs. I haven’t texturized my hair in about a year. Thoughts?

A: Think moisture, moisture, and more moisture. Typically, dry or damaged hair lacks moisture, and the lack of moisture can cause the hair cuticle to become rough. Rough hair tangles easily and creates knots, which is what you have experienced.

Start with intensive moisture maintenance and treatments. I always recommend starting with a good cleansing shampoo like Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo. Organic Cleanse gently removes buildup from the hair, without stripping or drying the hair. Then follow with a moisture intensive shampoo like Design Essentials Moisture Retention which helps to re-nourish the hair with conditioning agents. Finally, towel dry the hair (so it’s better prepared to receive moisture”>, then apply a deep moisturizing conditioner like Design Essentials Stimulations Super Moisturizing Conditioner. Proceed to comb through the hair starting at the ends and working to the roots. Follow by placing a plastic cap on the head, or wrapping the hair with plastic wrap. Allow the conditioner to penetrate for about 10-15 minutes, rinse with Luke Warm – COOL water which will help close the cuticle and lock in the moisture. Initially, I suggest applying this treatment every other week for about 2 months or until your hair feels soft, and more manageable. When you are ready I would recommend a good cut, this will help to remove those dry, frizzy ends, and rejuvenate the curl pattern you have. Don’t think I’m recommending a serious cut. 1 to 2 inches off should give you a good shape.

Begin the styling process by applying a leave in conditioner to your hair while wet. Leave in conditioners help the hair to better absorb styling products, and also work as a thermal protectant against heated styling tools. Try Design Essentials Therapeutics Leave-In Hydrating Conditioner. It’s a great product that helps detangle, and add moisture back to the hair.

Lastly learn to love your strands!!! You can create a variety of looks with “too much hair”. Experiment with several styles until you find one that works for your lifestyle and personality. Be sure to maintain your styles by sleeping in a satin bonnet. Rejuvenate your curl on a needed basis with a product like Design Essentials Silk Essentials. Silk Essentials adds moisture, shine, and eliminates flyaways.

Dear Rebecca: Is mineral oil bad? Why or why not?

A: I’m sure you’ve noticed there is lots of conflicting information about mineral oil. Mineral oil in hair care products work as a moisture sealing agent. According to our chemist, mineral oil is an Eclusion. This means it seals the hair shaft after it has absorbed all the necessary moisture and protein from conditioners or conditioning agents. Not surprisingly, mineral oil can be very beneficial to extremely curly hair because the various coils on excessively curly hair prevent natural oils from traveling down the entire strand.

Typically the negatives of mineral oil come from over usage of a product that contains mineral oil. Just like anything when you overuse a product, you may find that the hair isn’t as manageable. So always keep that in mind, a little product can go a long way.

Curly Hair Q&A: A Good Process For Deep Treatments

Q: What do you recommend for someone new to going natural?

A: It is a big decision whenever someone decides to go natural — primarily because it is not only a change in hairstyle, but it is a lifestyle change, too. I suggest starting with your own personal hair goals, asking yourself questions such as “What do I want my hair to look like, feel like, and how much time am I willing to give to my hair maintenance?”

When going natural, keep hair hydrated with moisturizing treatments that nourish both relaxed hair and new growth. Remember, hair is most fragile where natural hair and relaxed hair meet. So be sure to avoid excessively tight hair styles or styles that require rigorous manipulation. A style like the two-strand twist is a great option because it enhances and defines the natural texture and requires very little maintenance. And if you prefer hair that is smooth or silky, ceramic blow dryers and styling tools can be used to create almost any desired look while straightening new growth, as well. These styles will make transitioning from relaxed to natural hair easier… without compromising health or appearance.

Q: What’s the best deep treatment process?

A: I’ve found that naturally curly hair needs intense moisture, regardless of how tight the curl. Here’s the best deep conditioning process:

  1. Cleanse the hair with a moisturizing shampoo that will gently remove all impurities from the hair and scalp while replenishing moisture. When shampooing, keep in mind that you have two textures of hair, so shampoo gently using the fingertips working through the ends of the hair. If you are shampooing too vigorously you may find that you will place unnecessary tension on the hair that has been previously relaxed, which could lead to breakage.
  2. After shampooing, towel-blot hair to remove excess water. (Excess water often prevents deep penetration of the conditioner.”> For the best deep-conditioning treatment, I recommend Design Essentials Stimulations Super Moisturizing Conditioner. It hydrates deep within the hair shaft to restore lasting moisture and vitality to hair. It also contains peppermint oil, an organic ingredient that refreshes and stimulates the scalp. Hair is left in its healthiest state possible after a stimulations deep treatment.

  • Apply a quarter- to half-dollar size amount to the hair (depending on the length and texture”>.
  • Then take a large, wide-tooth comb and, beginning from the nape of the head (or back”>, comb conditioner through small section by section until you have completed this throughout the entire head.
  • Follow by placing a plastic shower cap on the head and sit for 5-10 minutes. To intensify the treatment, wrap a slightly heated, dampened towel over the top of the cap. This creates sort of an at-home steam treatment by trapping the moisture and steam within the cap, forcing the conditioner to penetrate the hair strand even more.
  • Allow this treatment to penetrate for 10–20 minutes depending on the amount of time have available. Once completed, rinse the hair with lukewarm water (almost cool”>. This will aid in closing the hair cuticle and locking in moisture. Rinse until all excess treatment has been removed from the hair.

Q: What can I do for an itchy scalp?

A: An itchy scalp is tricky. It can be caused by a number of reasons. Climate, diet, scalp irritation, or even more severe reasons like seborrhea dermatitis or dandruff. Most commonly, it is because of a dry scalp, or tension placed on the scalp.

I would recommend a moisture-intensive cleansing and conditioning regimen that would include using Design Essentials’ Therapeutics Rx Anti-Itch Shampoo (to alleviate dry, itchy scalp”> and Design Essentials Moisture Retention Conditioning (to restore and retain moisture”>. If you are still finding that you are in need of further moisture, I suggest applying a scalp moisturizer such as Design Essentials Herbal Complex 4 Hair & Scalp Treatment to replenish moisture to the scalp without build up. To reduce itchiness or the appearance of dandruff, try Design Essentials Therapeutics Rx Hair & Scalp Treatment, which contains salicylic acid, designed to treat the symptoms of seborrhea dermatitis and dandruff. Both treatments only require applying a small amount to the scalp area where the itchiness or dryness occurs. Use as needed.

Be sure to consult with physician or dermatologist if you experience more severe symptoms.

Q: How do I know if my shedding is normal or if I’m shedding too much?

A: This is a very common question for women and men. It’s normal to shed between 35-40 hairs per day.

With naturally curly hair of any texture, the hair has a specific growth pattern in coils or curls. In some cases, because the curls are so tight, the hair that has naturally shed will stay within the hair trapped by its texture or curl. Meaning, if you wait a couple of days to shampoo, condition, style, comb, etc. you will find a much larger amount of hair shedding than if you shampooed, conditioned, styled, and combed on a daily basis.

If you find that the hair is shedding in larger amounts specific to an area, or following a specific action like styling, using a thermal styling tool, or unnecessary tension like tight ponytails, then you might want to consult a professional hair stylist for a consultation.

Q: How do I know when it’s the right time to do the Big Chop?

A: The BC should be determined at your personal discretion. If you prefer to keep your length as is, then you can opt to grow your relaxer out until the natural hair reaches your desired length. However, if you are open to a short crop, then cut the relaxed hair and start off new with natural do’. The decision is yours!