Search Results: Nikki Walton

By Nikki Walton · Published August 27, 2015

Everyone loves the beauty and the ease of braid extension styles, but what isn’t so cool is the terrible itching! Thankfully there is a solution to prevent this from happening so you can enjoy your braids without having that unpleasant itch.

Well, why is synthetic hair so itchy?

To make the hair heat resistant a coating of Akaline Lye is sprayed on the hair. So when you are burning the ends of the hair or using boiling hot water to curl the Kanekalon hair, you have the Akaline to thank. The Akaline also helps to make the product more sanitary and aids in preventing mold and other growths. Unfortunately many people’s scalps become easily irritated by this coating which is why even on the first day of getting your braids you may find it to be quite itchy.

How to make the hair less itchy

Option 1: Soak your hair in a solution of water and apple cider vinegar

1. Fill your sink or a bowl large enough to fit your braiding hair in with warm water.
2. Add in a cup of Apple Cider Vinegar
3. Let the hair set in the solution until you see a white film appear.
4. Take the hair out of the solution and rinse with water.
5. Remove the excess water and let the hair air dry until you are ready to use.

Option 2: Wash the hair with regular shampoo

You can just opt to use a shampoo to help remove the Akaline base.

Option 3: Spray your scalp with a mixture of water and apple cider vinegar

Have you already gotten your hair installed? Well you can opt to spray your scalp a spray bottle filled warm water and 1 tbsp of apple cider vinegar.

Breanna Rutter explains more about this in her video below:

This article was written by Ariane of BlackNaps.com and published by CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 27, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Getty Images

Question of the Day

I have really dry curly hair. Will it damage my hair if I condition it every day?

The Right Brain responds

The answer depends on HOW you condition your hair. Rinse out conditioners are the worst – not because the conditioner itself does any damage but because of the processes of washing,  rinsing and drying.

Three ways the conditioning process can be bad

1. If you used any shampoo prior to conditioning you may be stripping your hair of moisturizing oils.
2. Just wetting and drying your hair (even without shampoo”> causes the cuticle to expand and contract which can be weakening because it creates radial cracks in the outer cuticle layers.
3. Towel drying your hair always involves some degree of frictional abrasion that can crack and scrape off even more cuticle. 

Leave in conditioners can be less damaging

If you’re not washing and wetting your hair, leave in conditioners are just fine. At most they require just a little combing to smooth them through your hair. If you’re washing your hair anyway (or at least getting it wet for some reason”> it’s better to go ahead and condition. But if you can skip a shampoo-wet-dry cycle and use a leave in conditioner instead, you’ll avoid opportunities for damage.

CurlyNikki Approved Leave-ins and Moisturizers

• Giovanni Direct Leave-In 
• Oyin Handmade Hair Dew 
• SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hair Milk 

How often do you condition, co-wash, poo, or otherwise wet your hair? What’s your process to minimize wear and tear?

 This article was written by The Beauty Brains and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 25, 2015

After I did my big chop, I was left with a classic teeny weeny afro. However, it wasn’t a perfectly curly and coifed one like you see in the magazines. I was left with multiple textures, scraggly ends, and desert dry hair. Fortunately, I was open to experimentation and understood that my journey was going to be a process, not a pit stop. Leave-in conditioners became a must-have for my regimen, and if I had known then about the insides and outs of purchasing them, I could have saved some Lincoln’s along the way.

A good leave-in conditioner is said to “help detangle strands, reduce fly-aways, tame frizz, and keep your curls soft and smooth” (Smith & Searle, “8 Best Leave-in Conditions for Hair””>. However, many of us know that leave-in conditioners are a superstar product for additional moisture and frizz prevention. Despite this, few of us know exactly what types of leave-in conditioners are best for our hair and what it needs at that moment. Knowing this, can substantially increase the health of your hair and enable you to reach your hair goals faster.

Are leave-in conditioners for everyone?

While all texturized women face similar challenges, there are also differences amongst them. For example, my hair makes no sense whatsoever. It’s coarse and dry but my strands are fine so it doesn’t appreciate products that are too heavy. My hair stays happiest with water-based leave-ins that are extremely hydrating. Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, the author of The Science of Black Hair states that “creamy leave-ins are best for those with thick, coarse hair while sprays often suffice for those with fine-hair who cannot use heavier water-based moisturizers” (80″>.

Additionally, it is vital that we focus on obtaining a moisture-protein balance. Some people are protein advocates while others are protein-sensitive and avoid it at all cost. I learned early in my natural haircare journey that my hair was low porosity and fine which was like trying to find the similarities between apples and oranges. The cuticles of my hair were tightly closed which made my strands stubborn towards receiving moisture yet my strands were somewhat strong. I didn’t have to worry about heat or color damage as much as the next person.

On the other hand, I did have to worry about breakage because of my dry and fine strands. I realized that getting moisture into my strands on wash day was vital and that a protein treatment once a month or every other month worked best for me. For naturals that are protein sensitive then make sure you stick with leave-ins that contain hydrolyzed soy protein. SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie is a great leave-in, being moisturizing, lightweight, and, protein-sensitive friendly.

Width and Porosity

In contrast, women with high porosity hair face challenges too. With high porosity hair, the cuticle is raised or open. This means that the cuticles receive moisture well but do not hold onto that moisture well due to the holes or gaps in the strand. These ladies do well with leave-ins that have cuticle-sealing ingredients, such as aloe vera. A good leave-in purchase for high-porosity ladies is Camille Rose Curl Love Moisture Milk. It contains aloe leaf juice as well as a list of other milks, oils, and butters. 

Okay, so let’s recap what we just discussed because I know it seems like there are so many details but no clear-cut, defined rules of thumb. According to Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, coarse hair needs heavier products i.e. milk, oils, butters. Fine hair appreciates mists, sprays, and lighter conditioning products which have a watery concentration. Does the leave-in feel watery and cool to the touch or is it heavy and pasty? If it’s wet feeling then you have a leave-in that is generally good for fine hair. If the product is heavy then you have a leave-in that is generally good for thick hair.

Now, this is the part where you may have lost me. If your hair is coarse but seems not to receive moisture easily (low porosity strands”> then you want leave-ins that are light but very hydrating. You need watery leave-ins that have a lot of moisturizing ingredients. Glycerin is great for the summertime but during the winter it should be avoided because it draws moisture out of the hair. During the wintertime, leave-ins with ingredients like shea butter and jojoba oil are good options.

If you have hair that is fine but loses moisture as easily as it receives it (high porosity”> then you need to find products that are heavy and hydrating. Your leave-ins will have water as the main ingredient too but be thicker in consistency. As stated previously, you want to close your cuticle to allow the ingredients to stay on your strand for longer. Leave-ins with aloe vera juice, and oils like avocado are a great option for you ladies year-round. You should also be protein advocates. Protein assists your hair, by “temporarily [filling] those holes, thereby strengthening the hair” (Gadling, “Curl Talk: 10 Products That Help Maintain High Porosity Curls””>.

In conclusion, you must perform trial runs with your hair. When you become natural, think of yourself as the investigator or detective. The tips above should be a great start but don’t rely on them solely. Take the time to really figure out which leave-in’s work for your hair. Leave-ins became an overnight game changer for me. If you take the time to figure out which ones work well, your natural hair will thank you.

What is your favorite leave-in and why?

Sources

Smith, Erica, and Kelly Searle. “8 Best Leave-in Conditioners for Hair.” TotalBeauty. TotallyHer Media, LLC, 2015. Web. 23 Aug. 2015.

Sivasothy, Audrey. “Protein & Moisture Balancing Strategies for Breakage Correction and Defense.” The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care. Saja, 2011. 80. Print.

Gadling, Adrienne. “10 Products That Help Maintain High Porosity Curls.” StyleBlazer. Moguldom Media Group, 1 Aug. 2014. Web. 23 Aug. 2015 

This article was written by Keora Bernard and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 25, 2015

Photo Courtesy of HeyCurlie

But if you’re ready to become a hardcore DIYer, then stay tuned, I’ve got pro-tips!

Top 5 Online Places to Shop

Your local grocery stores only have the basic DIY staple items (see below for list”>, for the hard to find items like Slippery Elm, Witch Hazel, and Nettle Oil to name a few, you need to order online. Its very easy and you can also buy in bulk. Here are some of the sites that a lot of natural hair product companies order from. Bulk is great for making enough to share with friends and family for holiday gifts.

• IngredientstoDiefor.com
• Bulkapothoery.com
• TheHerbarie.com
• Bulktherapy.com
• makingcosmetics.com

Top 5 Local Stores For Shopping

I’m a professional DIYer and these are my top places for shopping. I try to fit these stores into my local grocery runs since they are so far apart from each other.

Trader Joes

Go here for cheaper versions of the DIY staple ingredients like coconut oil, tea tree oil, jojoba oil, apple cider vinegar, aloe vera juice, aloe vera gel, vitamin E oil, bananas, avocados, honey, and olive oil.

Beauty Supply

Go here to find cheaper butters such as unrefined shea butter or cocoa butter. They also have some generic oils as well but I’m usually pretty skeptical of the beauty supply, so I usually only pick up the butters from there.

Whole Foods, GNC, and Vitamin Shoppe

Go to these stores for the hard to find items such as

• Bentonite Clay
• Rhassoul Clay
• Coconut Milk
• Liquefied Coconut Oil
• Essential Oils
• Fragrances
• Ground Flax Seeds
• Cocoa Powder etc.

One thing to take note, is that essential oils can be very pricey, ranging from $10 to $45 for just one ounce. I’ve seen vanilla essential oil go for $28 at the Vitamin Shoppe, which is a bit too pricey for me.

Don’t buy shea butter and solid coconut oil seeing as it will be much more expensive for less product.

Top 25 DIY Ingredient Staples

The items listed below are some of the most common ingredients used in DIY hair recipes. If you go out and spend $100-$150 on these items, you can just about make any DIY hair product on Pinterest. 

• Butters: Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter
• Edibles: Avocado, Banana, Coconut Milk, Honey, Yogurt, Eggs, 
• Dry: Ground Flax Seeds, Rhassoul Clay or Bentonite Clay
• Liquids: Vegetable Glycerin, Apple Cider Vinegar, Rosewater, Aloe Vera Juice, Aloe Vera Gel 
• Essential Oils: Lemon, Lavender, Peppermint
• Carrier Oils: Coconut Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Avocado Oil, Castor Oil, Olive Oil, Grapeseed Oil

Now that you know the best places to shop locally, online, and what to buy, you can get to mixing. You even have a suggestion for an easier way to DIYing, CurlMix. Let me know your pro-tips for DIYing. I’m always looking for more tips!

This article was written by The NHA and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 24, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Getty Images

My natural hair journey began with the quest for the perfect gel and I spent countless hours researching information and experimenting with methods and techniques that work on my hair to get the best curl definition. 

I investigated, researched, tried and err’d and now share what I discovered with you. Just keep this in mind: my hair type and texture is different from yours so you may be able to get away with using slightly different types of products, and modifying your technique somewhat while still getting great curl definition. However if you understand the principles you can tweak whatever you need to to get the perfect curl.

Are you using the wrong product?

First off, if you want super-defined curls the first thing you’ll need is the correct TYPE of product. What do I mean?

When women are concerned about their hair styles becoming frizzy, puffy and lacking definition they’re usually using oils, leave in conditioners or butters to style their hair. This is the problem. Oh sure they’ll have the moisture they need. But not the definition. This is because oils, butters and regular leave-in conditioners typically don’t contain ingredients that give HOLD to styles. And the reality is that for women with some hair types and textures – like type 4 hair – they’re not going to achieve any curl definition or longevity to their style without a product that gives hold.

So what’s the word of the day for defined curls that last? Hold. And you also need clumping.

In order to achieve these two things you’ll need to use a hair gel. And more specifically, a product that contains POLYMERS.

How polymers (and gels”> work

There are various types of polymers in hair and skin care. Types include conditioning polymers, viscosity modifying polymers and film-forming polymers. The ones we’re concerned with mostly are the film-forming polymers. These polymers are often the source of hold in styling products such as hair gels, cream gels and hairsprays.

According to curl chemist Tonya Mckay, “a gel consists of solid particles (usually polymers”> dispersed throughout a liquid. These particles form a network throughout the liquid that swells and forms a gelly.”

As the product is applied to the hair, the polymers are deposited onto the surface of the hair and cause adjacent strands to be attracted to each other, creating bonds between the strands. This creates the desired “clumping” effect. The more clumping I see happening, the better the final result. Especially for Type 4b and 4c hair.

As the product is applied to the hair, the polymers are deposited onto the surface of the hair and cause adjacent strands to be attracted to each other

Once the water in the product evaporates the polymers dry to form clear films which not only help to maintain the curl, but add shine. This hold will typically last until the bonds are broken through combing, brushing or touching the hair, or until the product is washed out.

In my opinion there is nothing like a good hair gel for defining curls, giving them staying power, providing shine and minimizing frizz. However you’ll need to find the right type of gel to enhance your curls.

As a consumer, one of the main challenges with hair gels is assessing whether or not the gel is going to do what you want it to do without doing what you DON’T want it to do. What do we want the gel to do? Clump the curls, define and hold them in place. What do we NOT want the gel to do? Provide a stiff, crunchy, inflexible hold and flake (especially in excessive amounts”>. Some polymers provide great hold but they’re too brittle and can cause flaking. Others don’t flake at all but provide a softer hold that can be susceptible to moisture and frizz in humid conditions. Because of all of the factors that can contribute to a complete “gel-fail” there is a lot of research and development that goes into the manufacture of polymers used in hair care products. Certain ingredients can be added to soften the film formed by the polymer without a huge compromise in the performance of the product. 

The “f” word – flaking

If there is one fear of using hair gels that many naturals have it’s the dreaded “f” word – flaking. This is the number one concern followed closely by the gels making the hair hard. This really comes down to the formulation of the product. 

What determines whether or not a gel will flake depends a lot on the polymer that’s used, as well as other ingredients in the formula. A strong hold is desired for curl definition, especially on Type 4b and c hair that will almost never clump without product. However, if there is any manipulation to the hair (like combing or brushing the hair when the curls are “locked in place” or you have this overwhelming urge to always touch your hair”>, then the clear films are disrupted and as a result, flaking occurs. Keep in mind that the more gel and product you pile on onto your hair, the more flaking and residue you can expect.

In some products polymers aren’t the only ingredient to blame. Other ingredients in a formulation may contribute to flaking or, if you’re layering products from different product lines, there may be an incompatibility of ingredients that will result in your hair looking like you were rolling around in snow once it dries! Understanding common polymer ingredients is important if you’re going to assess a curl enhancing gel formula for effectiveness. 

Common gelling ingredients

So what polymers are typically going to be in a gel formula? This list is not complete but contains some of the more common ingredients you’ll find in hair care products.

• PVP (Poly n-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone”> – This polymer is notorious for causing flaking. It’s great at film-forming and can be washed away with water which is great for the no-poo or low-poo naturals. It’s also inexpensive. However some notable drawbacks are a crunchy feel to the hair, flaking in cold, dry weather, and, in humid conditions tackiness, stickiness and frizz.
• PVA (poly vinyl acetate”> – PVA is another ingredient commonly found in hair gels and it overcomes some of the drawbacks of PVP. It is water resistant and therefore doesn’t absorb as much moisture from the atmosphere. The hold is more flexible which means less flaking. A drawback of PVA is that it doesn’t provide that much hold to the hair. 
• Copolymers – Copolymers include ingredients such as PVP/VA copolymer and the acrylates copolymer and they have been designed to bring more balance to a formula creating a polymer that is strong yet flexible and less likely to flake. It can also be used in more temperature extremes while still maintaining optimal performance.
• Xanthan Gum – Xanthan gum is used in food products as well as cosmetic application and it’s a naturally derived polymer that is obtained by way of a fermentation process using a bacteria call Xanthomonas campestris. It’s useful in modifying the viscosity of products resulting in a product that is thick and creamy. It can also be used to create styling gels which result in a clear film on par with the typical synthetic polymers noted above. I absolutely love xanthan gum in my hair gels but one thing I’ll note is that not all xanthan gums perform the same. I’ve used xanthan gums with softer holds and others that form more rigid polymer structures. So you’ll need to try the formula to ensure it will work for your hair.
• Dehydroxanthan Gum – This is a naturally-derived, modified form of xanthan gum that provides great hold, humidity resistance and minimal flaking.

The ingredients that work well for my Type 4 hair are dehydroxanthan gum and xanthan gum. I haven’t tried products that contain PVP, PVA or the copolymers, mainly because my interest is in choosing products with more naturally sourced rather than synthetic polymers.

How to choose a gel for maximum clumping

Gels for natural hair come in many flavors, colors, textures and names. From curling jellies to curling custards, the name is more descriptive than functional. In essence, these are products that are manufactured to enhance curl definition by causing the hair to clump and keeping the strands in place as the hair dries. Because I’m a hair gel junkie, I can pretty much tell whether a gel will work for my hair as soon as I read the ingredient listing. My hair type and curl patterns is 4b and c and why this is important is because there are certain requirements for a hair gel to meet in order to effectively work on my hair. 

Gels for Type 4 Hair

Type 4 curlies have various curl patterns and textures but if there is one thing that most type 4’s have in common it’s the lack of visible curl definition. What this means is that a little more work is required in order to achieve defined curls. I’ve gotten the best results from the following types of gels:

1. Thick, dense hair gel.  Thicker gels cause my thick hair to clump better and dense gels add weight to my hair, allowing it to hang
2. Choose gels with a lot of slip.  For me, slip means the gel goes on easily and helps to detangle my hair in the process
3. The gel should feel gooey and snot-like between your fingers.  I know it’s a little gross but trust me on this one! The more gooey and stringy the better because this means MAJOR clumping and curl definition

Gels for Type 3 Hair

For women who have hair that has visible definition regardless of product use, your gel needs are little different. I have two daughters with two completely different hair textures. Based on my experience with my baby girl’s hair (extremely fine hair, silkier texture, visible curl definition without product”> a gel that is more liquid and less dense but with a lot of slip works very well for her. The gel that I would use on my eldest daughter’s hair or my hair would be way too thick and would just matte baby girl’s hair.

Technique

It’s one thing to have the right product; it’s another to know how to apply it properly. And this is another area where there are polarized opinions in the natural hair community.

I’ll present you with a few different techniques, the rationale behind them and give you the pros and cons of each so that you can make the best decision on how to apply gels to your hair for the best definition.

Let’s start with some problems when it comes to hair gels:

• The potential for flaking and residue
• The potential for dryness
• Tackiness and stickiness (depending on the formulation as well”>

Here are some issues you’re trying to overcome with your hair:

• Lack of curl definition
• Dryness
• Shrinkage (big one!”>
• Lasting style

Applying gel on soaking wet hair

This is not my first choice for my hair. If it works for you then carry on. But for me, it’s doesn’t result in the look I’m going for. The thing about hair is that when it’s wet is expands to allow the excess water. So the hair is going to be longer. However, as the hair dries the hair shaft contracts and shrinks up. So when you apply gel to wet hair, the length is not going to magically locked in. Sorry if you thought so or if the bottle or jar told you this. And this is because the hair is wet because of the excess water. But eventually the hair dries. And you get some major shrinkage.

I’ve also found that applying the product to wet hair for me doesn’t result in all of the curl definition I would like. So what are the pros and cons of applying the product to wet hair?

Pros

• The hair is a little easier to work with because it’s hydrated
• It’s easier to apply the gel to the hair and get it distributed throughout the hair from the scalp to the tip
• Applying gel wet helps to reduce the stickiness, tackiness and whiteness that could occur with the gel

Cons

• Shrinkage (big time!”>
• You don’t really maximize curl definition is some hair types
• Increased chance of breakage due to manipulation. Hair is pretty fragile and even more so when wet.
• Could lead to frizz and poor curl definition when it dries

For wash n’ gos some people use different techniques to apply the gel. Once the gel is applied you can wet your hair more, shake your head vigorously and apply more gel. I haven’t mastered this technique because I don’t use it. However it’s important to apply it from the scalp to the ends of the hair and with the hair wet, it’s a little easier to do then when it’s dry.

Applying gel on damp hair

This is what I do and it works well for me for how I want my hair to look – with maximum definition and less shrinkage. Starting with damp hair may seem to be a little bit counterintuitive if you want less shrinkage, but it works well. This is because when you apply the gel to hair that is damp, WYSIWYG. Translation – what you see is what you get. If it’s a good gel it will encourage the actual length of the hair from it’s density and curl “clumpiness”. Then when the hair dries the style will lock in place. I also find I get great shine from this method and better moisture retention. Some potential issues with applying product to damp hair is that the hair can feel sticky or tacky depending on the formulation of the gel used. And on some hair textures there can be some residue. The fix for the cons is to add a little water to the hair the work the gel into the hair more.

So what are the pros and cons?

Pros

• Maximum definition
• Less shrinkage
• More moisture retention
• Shine
• Sleeker look to the style

Cons

• Tackiness and stickiness (depending on the formulation”>
• Some residue (depending on your hair texture”>

Hair gels can be used to lock in any style: wash n’ gos, twists, braids, twist-outs, braid-outs, bantu knots. You name it, gels lock and hold. 

Okay so there you have it! In my usual round about, long explanation manner I’ve given you my opinion and experience with using hair gels. Hopefully you understand how to achieve maximum definition from any style you choose to wear and longevity from the style. 

Do you use hair gel? If so, which one? What works for you? Let’s discuss!

This article was written by Susan Walker of Dr. Walker Wellness and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 18, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Treasure Cooper

Here are 25 things you can do to improve your natural hair and prevent damage.  The goal here- to keep your hair on your head! Not including the obvious elimination of chemical treatments, this list contains all you need to maintain a healthy head of hair. They are categorized by care/maintenance and styling.

Cleansing, Conditioning, and Drying

• Nix shampoos with sulfates.  Sulfates strip the hair of needed moisture and natural oil, drying it out.
• Pre-poo (pre-shampoo”> your hair with coconut oil or olive oil. Coconut oil helps hair retain its protein levels, thus preventing damage.  It also limits the amount of water the strands absorb, preventing wear and tear (from expansion and contraction”> over time. Both natural oils protect the hair from being stripped when you shampoo.
• Deep condition your hair with a moisturizing deep conditioner after every wash.  Consider using a gentle heat source like a microwave cap or by wrapping a towel around your head (or rocking a  wool cap”> to generate some body heat of your own.

• Use an old t-shirt for drying. No microfiber or towel drying. Contrary to popular belief, microfiber rips the hair out. It acts like velcro to our tresses! Towel drying frizzes the hair. Either air dry or use an old t-shirt.
• Refrigerate your leave in conditioner. A cold leave in will help to seal your hair’s cuticle after washing. This is extremely helpful if you can’t take a cold water rinse. It will also increase the shine in your hair.
• Oil your hair with a light natural oil daily. Jojoba is light and helps keep the hair tangle free.
• Seal your ends with Jamaican Black Castor Oil. I have found this oil to be the best at protecting the ends from splitting. It’s so thick and protective, causing the ends to clump together. Seal after every wash and before styling.
• Moisturize your hair as needed. Use your sense of touch to tell. If it feels dry… moisturize!
• Don’t use too many different brands. When your hair begins responding, you want to know what’s working. In other words, curtail your PJ (product junkie”> ways.
• Do a henna treatment. I’ve been giving my hair henna treatments for about 6 months as of the writing of this post. My hair health is improved along with an amazing strength and shine.
• Clarify monthly. Hair products build up on the hair and every now and then the hair needs to be thoroughly cleansed. Especially, if you only co-wash (condition wash”>. You can either use a clarifying shampoo once a month or add a tablespoon of baking soda to your hair while shampooing. Apple cider vinegar is another option.

Styling

• Stop heat styling completely. Air drying is the best thing you can do to keep your hair on your head. Limit heat styling to rare, special occasions.
• Comb hair from the bottom up. When your hair is soaking wet and coated in conditioner, you can comb it with a large tooth comb or Denman brush to detangle. Do so carefully, working from the bottom up. Of all the detangling gadgets on the market, your 10 fingers remain your best tools.
• Never ever tease your hair. This is a cardinal sin against highly textured hair (well hair in general but some don’t know it”>.
• Don’t pull hair apart like a wishbone. If your hair is tangled, gently pull it up and apart in stead of pulling it apart like would a wishbone.
• Use hair accessories with no hanging parts or exposed metal. Banana clips, Satin Scrunchies, Goodie Flex Barrettes, Ouchless bobby pins & Ouchless elastic bands are the best for styling hair so that it does not get damaged.
• Avoid pulling hair tight at the hairline. Doing so will recede your hairline and damage the follicles permanently.  Not a good look.

Extra Care and Maintenance

• Clip your nails before detangling. Hanging nails will damage hair. Always make sure your nails are smooth and even before hair styling.
• Get a protein treatment once a month.  For maintenance, you can do this once a month or more if your hair is breaking.
• Trim away split ends as necessary but don’t get a trim for the sake of trimming. If your goal is to retain length, you’ll only be cutting off perfectly good hair. The less you do to damage your hair, the less you’ll need to trim it.
• Massage your scalp to stimulate your hair follicles 2-3 times a week. Some believe this encourages hair growth. I have not found it to be, but it certainly can’t hurt and it does increase the blood flow to your scalp.
• Take a multi-vitamin with Methylosulfonylmethame (MSM”>. MSM is believed to extend the lifespan of your individual hairs while also alleviating dry scalp. Always ask your doctor before taking vitamins to make sure it’s right for you.
• Tie up your hair at night. Never sleep on your hair loose. It’s more prone to tangling and breakage.
• Make satin your hair’s best friend. Sleeping in a satin scarf, bonnet or on a satin pillowcase prevents your hair’s moisture from being robbed. It also prevents unnecessary tangling.
•  Eat a diet rich in Omega-3 fatty acids. Good for your hair and skin too. Keeps both pliable.

Got any hair tips you’d like to add to the list? Do share how you take care of and do your hair in the comments below!

This article was written by  Michelle of Radiant-Brown-Beauty and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 17, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Getty Images

For me personally, going to the salon got way too expensive– I wanted to learn my own hair, and I absolutely loved the versatility of natural hair. If you make the decision to go natural, make sure that it is your own decision and not anyone pressuring you. Remember that this is your hair and your journey.  Here are a few reasons why you would want to go natural:

1. Want a change

This could be from having straight hair all the time to wanting a different look. If you are looking for a change, you will definitely get that with natural hair. If you are tired of the same style over and over, going natural can give you endless options to cater to that change you are looking for.

2. Debunks European and Western standards of beauty

When I was younger, I was taught that straight hair was the standard for beauty and poise. Kinky and coily hair was not accepted as beautiful, lovely, or appropriate. But now… natural hair is everywhere!  Companies want to be part of the movement, models and designers are for it, and the standard of “what is beautiful” is changing. Straight hair, what? Straight hair, who?

3. Healthier for you

Nothing against relaxers and other processing methods, but harsh chemicals are just not healthy for you. No matter how the box is sugar-coated with added oils, herbs, and cute pictures, it’s still a harsh chemical that can affect your health in the long run.

4. Embrace new growth

Gone are the days of dreading new growth.  If you’re looking to achieve and retain length, you will rejoice when new growth shows up!

5. Hair versatility

You can be 4 different women in one week! Flat Ironed Beauty, Afrostatic Diva, Lioness Blowout and Fierce Female Twistout. With the right care, natural hair can really give you any style you are feeling for any day you want.

6. Flexibility for previous lifestyle conflicts

For all of you swimmers, exercisers, and yoga masters, this would be a great change for you. The one thing that you are going to do is sweat when you exercise. Yes, that’s surely inevitable. Natural hair can definitely give you the versatility to wash daily or style your hair for exercise. Also, if you are on-the-go, going natural has great options for styling: wash n go, afro, bun, etc.

7. You will really learn your hair

When I was relaxed, I never took care of my hair. The reason was not because I did not feel like it or didn’t know how, but because I had someone there who could just do it for me. Once I went natural, there was no salon I went to that knew how to do natural hair (probably have changed now or could have just been my city”>. So I was forced to really learn my hair. When you go natural, you will learn that not everyone can do natural hair. Not everyone will know how to even care for natural hair. So it will be up to you to learn your hair. Who better to do your hair, than you? Be your own hair guru. 

8. Time and money saver

Other than saving money on going to the salon weekly, going natural can save you lots of money. Unless you are a product junkie or you literally have a wash day full of oils after herbs after treatments after other treatments, having natural hair is not that costly. All you need is a shampoo and/or co-wash, conditioner, leave-in, styler, and bobby pins (lots and lots of them”>. You may have other products depending on your styling and hair care preference, but that’s basically it.

9. Pride in Afrotastic history

If you are into the history of natural hair, then going natural would definitely be for you. Personally, I love the history and the timeline of Black Hair and how it evolved through history to the present time. Having natural hair makes me feel like I’m part of a great history. My hair has awesome roots (pun intended”> and that makes me so proud to be Afrotastic in my own right and history.

10. Great sense in natural community

When you become natural, you will inherit a bunch of sisters, aunties, mommas, and even brothers. The natural hair community is very welcoming and full of love when it comes to newbie naturals and those who are considering going natural. You can join natural hair groups on Facebook, chat in forums, add your comments and opinions on natural hair online publications, or even check out the family atmosphere of natural hair on other social media sites. Having natural hair comes with family who are willing to aid you in your healthy hair journey.

11. Inspire the next generation

Your little ones already want to be just like mommy! Your daughters, nieces, and grand-babies are definitely looking at you to see what is important to you. When you embrace your natural hair, they will see that natural hair signifies grace and beauty. They will learn to love their own curls, coils, kinks, and naps from the beginning of their lives. Help them take the first step in loving their hair by seeing you love your own natural hair.

12. Control our economics and business

Seriously though! Do you see how many businesses are wanting to take part in the natural hair industry? Most of the companies are brick and mortar ones, but there are rising and emerging companies who are black and natural-hair owned. Isn’t that something to celebrate in its own right?!

13. Feel unique and special

Today, natural hair is seen as something so unique and special from everyone who passes by. Whether your natural hair is flowing and springy or fluffy and bountiful, natural hair is basically beautiful. People want to touch your hair, talk about your hair, ask you questions about your hair, and even smell your hair (seriously, I had that happen before”>. Natural hair is something that is praised about and loved on. It seems so new to other cultures and even some of us. Natural hair is the new girl in town and everyone wants a piece of her.

14. Sense of freedom and acceptance

I’m not saying relaxed hair keeps you bound and chained, but it’s something about going natural that makes you feel liberated. It’s your own hair that grows out of your own head and you accept that! Your hair is on the schedule that you set for her and not on another’s time schedule. You give your hair the freedom to frizz as she pleases, fro as she grows, and spring indefinitely. There are no limits to natural hair! Everything can be achieved as long as you accept her.

If you make the decision to go natural, make sure that it is your own decision and not anyone pressuring you. Remember that this is your hair and your journey. Make the right choice for you alone.

This article was originally written by Christina via GlobalCoutureblog.net and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 13, 2015

• Prepooing
• Detangling
• Hot oil treatments
• Scalp massages/treatments
• Adding to conditioners/deep conditioners
• Adding to your spray bottle mix
• Sealing in moisture

1. Coconut oil (pure & unrefined”>

Properties: You’ve probably heard all the rage about coconut oil by now. Well, it doesn’t disappoint! This oil contains monounsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E, which both help promote hair growth and length retention, decrease breakage, and strengthen the hair. Coconut oil has a low weight (which helps seal the hair”> and consists of hydrophobic properties that allow it to draw moisture from the atmosphere into the hair, which helps the hair retain moisture.

Uses: Coconut oil is definitely one of the best and most versatile oils for natural hair and can be used for all of the purposes we listed at the beginning. It’s great to use as a prepoo or mixed into your favorite conditioner because it will naturally help melt the tangles out of your hair. You can apply coconut oil to your scalp to assist in alleviating dandruff, or simply apply it to your hair to style, add shine, combat frizz, moisturize, and seal.

2. Castor oil (Jamaican black”>

Properties: Castor oil consists of unsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E, protein, and minerals that work together to make it one of the best oils for boosting hair growth. You’ve probably heard of using Jamaican Black Castor Oil to help regrow your edges or simply to kickstart your growth journey. The rumors are true: this unrefined and nutrient-rich oil increases blood flow to the scalp, resulting in thicker, stronger, and longer hair. This is because castor oil has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties that remove dead skin cells from the scalp and stimulate hair follicles for growth.

Uses: Take caution when applying castor oil- especially if you plan on wearing your hair out. This oil is super thick so a little goes a long way. And if you don’t like it at first, don’t give up on it: you may just have been a little too heavy-handed with the product. Apply it to your edges to get them in tiptop shape. If you find that your hair is dry, brittle, prone to breakage, or balding in any areas, Jamaican black castor oil is a great natural way to combat all of these issues.

3. Olive oil (extra virgin”>

Properties: Olive oil is its own natural conditioner: it penetrates the hair shaft better than some other oils and nourishes, softens, and strengthens the hair. Olive oil also has an anti-inflammatory property that helps rid the hair of dandruff and product build-up on the scalp. It also assists in reducing hair loss by fortifying the hair against any kind of wear and tear.

Uses: Make sure you purchase extra virgin olive oil from your local grocery store for best results. Olive oil works very well for scalp massages: it will help you stimulate hair growth and maintain a healthy scalp. Add it to your spray bottle mix to help keep your hair moisturized throughout the week. Since olive oil penetrates the hair shaft, it also works great for hot oil treatments and will result in hair that looks and feels softer and stronger.

4. Avocado oil

Properties: Jam-packed with vitamins A, B, D, and E, protein, amino acids, magnesium, iron, copper, folic acid and fatty acids, avocado oil is superb for protecting and preventing damage to the hair. It also helps the hair lock in moisture and protects your strands against sun damage. Avocado oil has an even higher content (72%”> of monounsaturated fats than coconut oil: these fats provide nourishment and make your hair super shiny.

Uses: Adding avocado oil to your shampoo will treat dry, itchy scalp and adding it to your conditioner will give you excellent slip to make detangling a breeze. It’s not heavy enough to be ideal for being used to seal moisture into the hair, but it does actually help moisturize the hair so always keep it handy to fight dryness.

5. Jojoba oil (pure & unrefined”>

Properties: Jojoba oil doesn’t always get as much “shine” (no pun intended”> as it deserves. Much like avocado oil, it is great for addressing dry scalp but also hair loss, and in preventing split ends. But unlike any other oil, jojoba mimics your hair’s own natural oil (sebum”> which causes your strands to respond quite positively by absorbing it into the hair shaft, which results in more moisturized and shinier hair. It contains vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, and E, which work together to protect against damage. It has an even higher content of monounsaturated fats than avocado oil(98%!”> which of course make it excellent for strengthening the hair against breakage. It adds volume, encourages hair growth, and helps the hair revert from damage.

Uses: Jojoba oil also works great for scalp massages because it gives you great benefits without weighing your hair down. It is excellent when used in deep conditioners because it helps the hair bounce back, especially from heat styling.

The best thing about oil for natural hair is that you don’t need them all at the same time but the more you have, the better! All of them are versatile and beneficial for the hair. Try one, try them all, and watch your hair prosper.

This article was originally written by Kanisha and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 12, 2015

The phrase, ‘heat damage’ is a something that we all fear in the Natural Hair community! I recently interviewed natural hair vlogger Elle at Curls Unbothered about her experiences with Heat Damage.

• Blow-drying on the HIGHEST heat setting my CHI blowdryer could achieve
• Flat ironing on 450 degrees sans heat protectant or deep conditioning

How I’m overcoming heat damage

By Nikki Walton · Published August 12, 2015

Clarifying Shampoo

Clarifying shampoos are formulated with detergents strong enough to lift excessive buildup from sweat, dirty, excess sebum, product, and water insoluble silicones. These cleansers are perfect for curlies who only cleanse 1-2x per month but may be too harsh for weekly cleansing, especially since curly, coily, and wavy hair are prone to dryness. If you use water insoluble silicones regularly, then you may have to use these shampoos more often to fight dryness and give you a clean slate. Popular clarifying shampoos include Kinky-Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo, Elucence Volume Clarifying Shampoo (pictured above”>, and Carol’s Daughter Rosemary Mint Clarifying Sulfate-free Shampoo. 

Read more: 20 Clarifying Shampoos Gentle Enough for Damaged Hair

Moisturizing Shampoo

Moisturizing shampoos are perfect for weekly cleansing. They aid in maintaining a healthy scalp without stripping the hair of moisture like a clarifying shampoo would. These cleansers tend to be formulated with oils and humectants to help sustain the hair’s moisture. Popular moisturizing shampoos include Alikay Naturals Carribbean Coconut Milk Shampoo (pictured above”> U R Curly Soya Shampoo, Ouidad Curl Quencher Shampoo, and Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Shampoo.

Read more: 16 Shampoos Moisturizing Enough for Your Curls

Color-Safe Shampoo

Color safe shampoos prevent hair dye from bleeding excessively from color-treated hair. According to YouBeauty, “Color-depositing treatments do just what they say—add color. They give your blonde, red or brown a little somethin’ somethin’ and ward off premature brassiness, but they can’t replace real deal color, nor should they be used every day. “Color depositing shampoos literally dye the surface of hair temporarily—dropping tiny color polymers onto the hair’s outer layer,” explains White. Wilson adds: ‘It’s strictly a cosmetic effect — like putting a lip stain on lips.’” Popular color-safe shampoos include SheaMoisture Superfruit Shampoo (pictured above”>, Aubrey Organics Inc. Egyptian Henna Shine-Enhancing Shampoo, Beecology Honey & Botanical Sulfate-Free Shampoo, and ColorProof ClearItUp Detox Shampoo.

Read more: Do You Really Need a Color-Safe Shampoo?

Dry Shampoo

Dry shampoos are perfect for the wavy woman who is not fond of washing her hair every two days because of an oily scalp. These shampoos absorb the sebum in the hair and scalp and only require shaking and combing to release its powdery substance. These products ire not designed to replace standard shampoos, but to only help stave-off wash day in the meantime. Popular dry shampoos include Batiste Dry Shampoo (pictured above”>, Arrojo ReFINISH Dry Shampoo, DevaCurl No-poo Quick Cleanser, and Sachajuan Volume Powder.

Read more: Top 15 Dry Shampoos

What about co-washing and cleansing conditioners?

Think of co-washing like a happy median between a dry shampoo and a standard shampoo. While some cleansing conditioners are formulated with surfactants to help attract and rinse away buildup, they are not as effective as shampoo and are not formulated to replace them. They can be used in between your clarifying shampoos to refresh your curl and remove a little buildup. Cleansing conditioners are more for the hair while shampoo is more about the scalp, so shampoo is still essential. Reserve the co-washing for rejuvenating your curls between clarifying sessions.

Read more: You Need to Clarify: Signs that Co-washing is Not Enough

If you are concerned about dryness, then make sure to browse YouTube for various sulfate-free shampoo product reviews for textured hair. Check out the Top 30 Sulfate-Free Shampoos.

What are your favorite shampoos?

By Nikki Walton · Published August 7, 2015

Are you on the shea butter bandwagon?

This article was written by Veronica Jacobi of NaturalBella and published by CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 5, 2015

The answer is more obvious than you think, so it’s not really a secret – it’s retaining the growth that’s the real problem.

I remember when I first went natural; my hair was such a priority. I made sure to abide by every natural hair rule and didn’t skip a step on washday. Over time I slowly started skipping steps and cutting corners, expecting the same results. It simply doesn’t work that way. Growing long natural hair is a process. Think of it as growing a plant: If you decide that you’ll water it when you want and constantly alternate between drought and flood, chances are you won’t get the results you desire. I’m back to following the most important rules: pre-pooing, deep conditioning and detangling only when wet/damp. If you’ve stopped, you should start following the rules again.

Growing long natural hair is almost every woman’s dream and the process of doing so is no secret. We all know what we should be doing, but we don’t all do it. Following the natural hair rules makes all the difference.

Re-evaluate your hair regimen for a second. Are you doing everything you were doing when you first went natural? Are you sticking to a hair regimen that works for you and includes all the necessary steps required for long, healthy natural hair?

Sometimes we forget the basic steps and believe the problem is deeper than it actually is.

Just as a reminder, here are four natural hair rules you can’t afford to skip.

1. Pre-pooing

I think this is the most over-looked aspect of natural hair. Pre-pooing is done before shampooing with oils or conditioners and creates a barrier between your hair and the shampoo. It prevents the shampoo from completely stripping your hair of its natural oils.

Watch our tutorial to make your own pre-poo at home:

2. Deep conditioning

Now, you know how important this is. African American hair is notorious for being dry. This is the secret to moisturized hair.

If you’ve been deep conditioning and haven’t gotten convincing results, there are a few things you can do to make your deep conditioner work better, like using a thermal cap. Here are 5 more ways to get the most out of a deep conditioner.

3. Low manipulation

Cut some heat out. Stop twirling your hair around your fingers, even though it’s so tempting. Try not to comb your hair everyday, instead opt for finger detangling.

4. Satin/Silk Bonnet

Have you started just going to bed without your bonnet? Or maybe you got a new boyfriend and you can’t be sexy with a bonnet on? Try a satin pillowcase!

Growing long natural hair is no secret and while genetics plays a role, the “secret” is simply taking care of your hair consistently.

What’s your secret?

This article was written by Chelsea Satine of BlackNaps.org and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published August 4, 2015

PHOTO COURTESY OF KURLY KLIPS

One of the best attributes of the natural haircare movement is its diversity of options. You can wear a sleek bun, an unhinged afro, or choose to lock your hair. Furthermore, naturals can experiment with edgy cuts and colors, which highlight their state of mind and/or fashion sense. However, when we think about or refer to naturals, our frame of reference tends to be Solange Knowles or Lupita Nyong’o, but not Nicki Minaj or Beyoncé. Whether we acknowledge it or not, there is a large population of naturals who choose to regularly wear wigs or weaves.

I have family members and friends who wear hair pieces or extensions for a wide variety of reasons, and it doesn’t always mean they don’t like their natural hair. An old co-worker of mine told me that weave “grows your hair.” Other naturals say that wigging or weaving gives them a diversity of options and protects their hair at the same time.

On the other hand, many of us have witnessed the unpleasant effects of improper wigging or weaving, such as the case of Countess Vaughn. For those of you unfamiliar with Countess, she played as one of the leading actresses in “Moesha” and “The Parkers”. Her love for lace-front wigs caused a “severe scalp infection” (Wilson, “Countess Vaughn Reminds Us Of The Dangers Of Wigs And Weaves””>. I don’t want to shame naturals for their personal choices, but I do want them to be informed and proactive rather than reactive. Here are the top five rules for wigging or weaving:

1. WEAR A WIG CAP

Wearing a wig cap will help protect the hair from any unnecessary snagging or pulling. It will also keep all of your natural hair tucked away. An added bonus is that it will keep your wig in place. I made the mistake of wearing a wig without a wig cap and experienced a dreadful case of lopsided wig syndrome. Not cute. Keep it right. Keep it tight.

2. TAKE IT OFF

Take a deep breath and say this phrase with me slowly: “I am not my hair.” Go home and be yourself. Even if you’ve got a Naomi Campbell hairline under your wig or hairpiece, bare it all. Besides, this is a healthy hair practice. I have a hat that I absolutely adore but after one week of wearing it all day, my scalp began to itch terribly. I found refuge in taking it off after a day at work. Your scalp needs circulation for optimal hair growth to occur, so if you’re aiming for length retention, give your scalp some fresh air.

3. DEVELOP A ROUTINE

From what I have observed, a broken routine or complete lack thereof leads to unnecessary hair loss while wigging or weaving. You should take care of your hairpiece and your hair underneath it. This means that you should wash, deep condition, and dry your natural hair at least every two weeks. I would also suggest putting it in a protective style, especially if you’re weaving. Ericka Dotson, co-founder of Indique Hair, suggests using a “blow-dryer with a diffuser attachment” on the roots of your hair to prevent mildew (Essence, “How to Cleanse Your Scalp Under a Weave””>.

4. PROTECT YOUR EDGES

Always be conscientious of hair piece placement, products used on your hairline, and the manner in which you perform these steps. The edges of our hair are very delicate. Make sure that your hairpiece is secure but not too tight. Don’t use a lot of gels or heavy products to lay the hairline, as this can lead to breakage. Belinda Baker, CEO of salon BKB in Atlanta, Georgia, recommends making sure the wig cap covers the hairline to avoid “friction between the natural hair and the wig itself” (EHow beauty, “How to Protect African-American Hair Under a Wig: African-American Hairstyling””>.

5. SET A LIMIT

You should plan how long you intend on keeping your weave in. I would follow the same guidelines as those for braids, which are typically kept in for no more than 12 weeks. Leaving your weave in too long can create breakage and defeat any length retention you may have achieved. Besides, who doesn’t want to have a fresh weave? No one wants to be on the receiving end of immature weave jokes.

A curly fro, sleek bob, and big pin curls are all possibilities with wearing a wig or weave. These are styles that most of us cannot achieve on our own or seldom have the time to attempt. Like other naturals, wig and weave-wearers have just as many styling options, oftentimes even more. For naturals who prefer wearing wigs or weaves, more power to you. Just remember the tips above and you should be well on your way to enjoying both your showcased hair and your natural hair.

This article was written by Keora Bernard for CurlyNikki.

References

Wilson, Julee. “Countess Vaughn Reminds Us Of The Dangers Of Wigs And Weaves.” Huff Post Black Voices. Thehuffingtonpost.com, 17 Mar. 2014. Web. 2 Aug. 2015.

Baker, Belinda. “How to Protect African-American Hair Under a Wig: African-American Hairstyling.” YouTube. YouTube, 19 July 2012. Web. 2 Aug. 2015.

Dotson, Ericka. “How to Cleanse Your Scalp Under a Weave | ESSENCE.” YouTube. YouTube, 29 Nov. 2012. Web. 2 Aug. 2015.

By Nikki Walton · Published July 30, 2015

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A photo posted by Lo Novaes (@afrog4l”> on Jul 16, 2015 at 3:31pm PDT

Tell me a little about yourself and your hair journey.

Hi! My name is Loana Novaes. I am 27 years old. I’m originally from Bahia, but I currently live in São Paulo, Brazil.

How long have you been natural? Have you always embraced your curls?

I’ve been natural for six years. I have always embraced my hair, but for a long time I thought having straight hair would be easier for its daily care.

What motivated you to transition? Were you a transitioner or a big chopper & why?

I was looking for my own identity, so I decided to start with the hair. I dared not make the big chop because I did not see myself with short hair. I transitioned into natural and slowly chopped off my ends to finally be 100% natural.

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A photo posted by Lo Novaes (@afrog4l”> on Jul 2, 2015 at 2:37pm PDT

How would you describe your hair?

My hair is dry, but I constantly put oil in it. It has so much volume, thank God! Like many girls that are natural, I have different textures: some kinky, wavy and curly.

What do you love most about your hair?

What I love most is the versatility. I have 1001 possibilities in the same hair!

“My hair is the expression of my soul”

What has been the most memorable part of your journey? Has it been easy or difficult or both?!

It was difficult because at the time I was frustrated with the two-textures because it was not looking good. I was ashamed and I could not socialize with other people. After much searching, I found an online community called Meninas Black Power (Black Power Girls”> where many girls had the same hair problems. There I really learned to deal with the transition. 

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A photo posted by Lo Novaes (@afrog4l”> on Feb 15, 2015 at 9:24am PST

What are some of your favorite transitioning hairstyles or current dos’?

My favorite hairstyles were buns, braids and high puffs.

What have your experiences been as a ‘natural’? Any memorable reactions from family or others?

Brazil is a country where almost half the population is black, but some people still shocked to see a natural hair free. Some people ask, “Hey, why don’t you straighten your hair?” or insult: “Your hair is ugly, looks like a tree!”, but I don’t care, because I love my hair and no one will take that away from me.

What is your hair regimen?

I only wash my hair twice a week with my fav shampoo and conditioner Seda*. During the co-wash. I use only my fingers to detangle. When I notice that it is very dry, I do a deep hydration with Pantene Flawless Curls Mask. Finally, I use the leave-in Seda* and the Extraordinary Oil, L’Oréal.

What are some of your favorite natural hair websites, YouTuber’s, or blogs?

My inspirations are meninasblackpower.blogspot.com.br, tarenguy.com, and samio.co.uk.

Anything you want the readers to know? Inspirational words?

If you are in transition be patient and do not give up, because the wait will be rewarding. Talk to your hair, say how much you love him and how much it smells good and shines. It seems crazy, but it amazes any bad hair day.

Where can people find you for more information?

On Instagram: @afrog4l

This article was originally written by Global Couture and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published July 27, 2015

Photo of Bianca Alexa

Have you ever experienced a hair growth plateau? It’s when your hair can’t seem to grow past a certain length: be it neck length, arm pit length, bra strap length etc. This is probably due to some practices (or lack thereof”> in your natural hair care regimen.  If you are currently at a growth plateau, you’ll probably find that hair growth isn’t the problem: retaining length is (your hair may be breaking off as fast as it’s growing”>. It’s also possible that your hair isn’t growing as full or as rapidly as it could depending on how well you take care of your hair. It’s tough to come to terms with the fact that your hair isn’t prospering, but once you take steps to address the issue(s”>, you’ll be well on your way to longer hair at its healthiest.

Assess the problem

What is causing your hair to stay at one length? There are a number of poor hair habits that could be the culprit; here are a few to start with:

• Over-manipulation can cause dryness, shedding, and breakage
• Rough handling of the hair – combing too hard, detangling improperly etc.
• Moisture overload reduces elasticity and therefore weakens the hair
• Protein overload results in brittle hair that breaks easily
• Defective styling instead of protective styling – not properly maintaining the hair during and after installing a protective style, leaving the protective style in for too long
• Misuse/overuse of hair tools such as combs, brushes, bobby pins, etc.
• Overuse of heat styling
• Using the wrong products for your hair type
• Using harsh chemicals – coloring/dyeing the hair (almost always causes dryness/breakage to Type 4 hair, especially when it isn’t maintained properly with regular conditioning treatments”>
• Not trimming often enough
• Not following healthy hair practices such as deep conditioning, detangling properly, and moisturizing and sealing

The list may not end here, but these are some of the more common ones to give you an idea of where you may be going wrong at. Once you know the problem, you can eliminate it and take steps to get your hair back on track. If the issue is heat or color, don’t be tempted to go back. Do whatever is necessary for the health of your hair, it’ll be worth it in the long run.

Trim it

When you’re at a growth plateau, it’s likely that starting with a fresh trim will benefit your hair tremendously. You don’t want to try nursing damaged hair back to health. (Trust me, I’ve tried it myself”>. If you’re uncomfortable with losing length, you can protective style until your hair grows back or simply trim gradually. Once you have the damaged hair out of the way, you can focus on preserving and growing your healthy hair.

Take pictures

Now that you know the problem and have cut away any damage, you’re ready to start with a clean slate. Take pictures! I cannot stress how important this is. When you don’t have a way to document your hair growth, you will feel like it’s going nowhere. But when you have pictures to look back on every milestone, you can really tell if you’re getting it right. 6 months or a year from now, you’ll be able to see that you are finally on your way to getting past your growth plateau.

Put it away

For Type 4 hair, protective styling is almost always a bulletproof method in regards to retaining length. When long term protective styling, some things to remember are:

• Never leave the style in for longer than 4-6 weeks
• Moisturize and oil your scalp while you have the style installed
• When you take the style out, remove any shed hair before wetting the hair. If you don’t, you’ll have a knotted, tangled mess on your hands and you will lose hair.
• Give your hair a break for at least 1-2 weeks in between styles.

You can also do short term protective styles like buns or goddess braids which give you the freedom to wash your hair when desired. (When bunning, be sure not to bun too tightly and to switch up the placement of your bun every few days to keep the hair from breaking off in that area”>.

Go on a hair challenge

When your hair has you in a funk, one of the best things to do is to go on a hair challenge. It’ll keep you from cutting all of your hair off on a whim because of sheer frustration. And it’ll give you something to look forward to and work towards. Mentally record and/or write down your goals and strive to achieve them. For example, I am currently on a 6-month no heat/protective styling challenge with my hair. For the first month, I’ve been co-washing my hair every three days and keeping it in buns. I flat ironed prior to the challenge and took pictures and I plan on flat ironing at the end of the challenge to see my growth.

Get inspired

Check out other naturals whose length your aspire to have. It’s not to make you feel bad or down about your own hair, but to give you something to look forward to. Some of my personal favorites on Instagram are @hey_curlie, @chronicurls,@chigirlmakeup and @simplybiancaalexa.

Learn your hair

While you’re working on getting past your growth plateau, make sure you utilize this time to learn your hair if you haven’t already. Try new products if you need to and discover whether or not your hair likes them. I used to wear box braids all of the time and having my hair out now while wearing buns has really given me time to learn my hair. I know what areas are drier than others and what areas have tighter curls than others. I’ve found products my hair said “eh” to and products that it absolutely loved. I have a regimen that works for me and my hair and I’m sticking to it because I’ve seen prosperous results.

You can and you will get past this growth plateau. This is not the end for your hair. You may be having some trouble now, but if you follow these steps, you’ll be able to get your hair where you want it to be. Have patience, show your hair love, and watch it grow.

What do you do when you hit a plateau?

This article was written by Kanisha of BlackNaps.org and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published July 27, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Kala G

Is your natural hair extremely dry?  Hair steaming may be just what the “hair doctor” ordered when it comes to healthy, moisturized coils and curls. 

What is hair steaming?

It basically means adding moisture in the form of moist heat (steam”> to the hair strands. This can be done in a number of different ways such as using a handheld hair steamer, a standing steamer or even enjoying the steam after a long warm shower.

Why should you consider steaming?

1. Helps reduce breakage: the steam helps to add moisture and thus can make dry, brittle and thirsty hair supple, hydrated and healthy.
2. Lifts the cuticle to allow product/ingredient absorption: the warmth from the steam helps to raise the cuticle of our hair, which means that products/ingredients are more easily absorbed into the core. This can be particularly helpful for low porosity naturals that find it hard to get moisture deep into the core of the hair or products to be fully absorbed by the hair.
3. Enables hair stretching, less shrinkage and tangles: because the hair is hydrated, it usually means that there is less shrinkage which in turn means less tangles and knots. This makes it easier to detangle and can also lead to less breakage!
4. Refreshes curls without having to start over: you get to add moisture without having to soak your hair with water. This can be especially beneficial for those that suffer from dry brittle hair during winter and do not want to add water in the morning/night and perhaps risk getting a cold!
5. Helps clean the scalp and promote hair growth: the warmth from the steam can actually help fight through some product build-up/dirt on the scalp, making it easier to keep your scalp clean. A clean scalp is a healthy scalp and a healthy scalp means healthy growth. The warmth also helps stimulate blood flow in the scalp which again helps with hair growth.

When and or how often should you steam?

It really depends on how dry your hair feels, how often you need to wash your hair and how difficult/easy it is for products such as deep conditioners, leave-in conditioners etc. to penetrate your hair strands. In all likelihood, you will not require daily hair steaming however you might feel that 1 – 2 times a week gives you happy, hydrated hair that looks and feels lush, plump and truly hydrated.

Do you steam your hair? How often?

This article was originally written by MaiCurls of GlobalCoutureblog.net for CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published July 26, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Michelle Thames

I began my natural hair journey in 2009. I transitioned for 24 months before cutting the reaming perm off of my ends. I will say that I have learned a lot– there have been good days, and not so good days. But all in all, I am happy and I have learned to accept, expect and embrace certain things.

Sometimes your hair refuses to dry

Raise your hand if this is true for you!  Have you ever created a bomb twist set and went to sleep knowing that your hair would essentially be on “fleek” tomorrow because you spent all night twisting it and now your fingers hurt? But then you wake up and begin to take your hair down, only to realize that it’s still damp in places! Argh… natural hair problems! I have learned to accept the fact that my hair won’t always dry when I want, and that if I want a particular style I have to spend more time to let it dry before attempting to take it down.

That inspirational style from Instagram didn’t turn out like you expected

Let’s face it, we all are on Instagram getting hair inspiration from so many different naturalistas! You see her hair is on point, so you go and try out the style yourself with hopes of it turning out like hers. You do the exact same steps, follow her exact same routine, use the same products… and then bam she has voluminous curls and you have a fro. Hey there curlfriend, it happens LOL! I have learned to accept that even if I do the style the same way I may have different results and I am okay with that! Which speaks to my next point…

Everyone has different hair

Different textures, porosity, curls, coils, all of that. Yes you heard that right! Everyone has different hair. I know it’s easy to get wrapped up on Instagram, blogs, or YouTube looking at pictures and videos of different naturalistas hair and saying,  “I can’t wait until my hair gets that length, or I want HER hair”. We have all been there! The fact is, your hair is your hair, and that naturalistas is hers. It’s okay to get inspiration etc, but I have learned to embrace my own hair. Always remember you and your hair are BEAUTIFUL.  Learn to work with what you’ve got and you (and your hair”> will be happier in the long run.

Patience

If you don’t have this in the natural hair world… man oh man! Patience is key when you are natural. On those wash days when I just wanted to give up, I didn’t. You just have to stay patient in every aspect (patience to see growth, patience to detangle, patience to wet set, lol”>. Trust me on this one. You will get to where you want to be, you just have to be patient.

Seek a stylist when needed

I know we get to the point where we feel that we don’t need our stylist anymore, and that we can do it all on our own. Well I still seek a professional stylist when it comes to getting my ends clipped and also straightening my hair. So my advice is to seek a stylist when you feel it is appropriate.

Have fun

Needs no explanation just have fun and remember it’s only hair! Cut it if you want, color it if you want! Hey it’s your hair! Remember that!

What have you learned since going natural?

This article was written by Michelle Thames of HappilyEverNatural.com and published on CurlyNikki.

By Nikki Walton · Published July 22, 2015

LEFT: OMISADE TODAY, RIGHT: OMISADE 1 YEAR AGO

Cleansing

Styling

So this bobbie pin, a scarf and a gele walked in a bar…Real talk, the transition from a taper to a fuller fro has required some straight up trickery! I keeps an arsenal in my car for any given hair catastrophe. When I was initially growing it out, it was too short on the sides to pull up into a puff so I would use bobby pins to create a faux hawk. Eco Styler Olive Oil Gel saves the day every time.  I would also give into days when my hair was clearly in charge and just “wrap it up B.’ African Geles are my safe guard. I wear them for cultural and spiritual reasons and they have so much utility in addition to looking amazing. Now that the the hair is longer, I like to either pull it up into an awesome chunky puff, create a funky up do/protective style with bobbie pins leaving the front out or use my African fabric and pull some hair out in the front for a funky bang. I am looking forward to the top knot which was my go to syle when I had locs.

Sleeping

How do you take care of your gray hair?

This article was written by Omisade for CurlyNikki.