Search Results: Nikki Walton
What happens when you take ALL the shortcuts? A disaster, usually. But not this time.
I watched several YouTube tutorials on crochet braids and wigs and since I was strapped for time and a bit impatient anyway, I decided to take a few shortcuts to get my desired look. I wanted a very full, classic halo Afro shape, but you can tweak these steps for a heart-shaped fro, asymmetrical cut, or curly bangs style. The whole shabang is pretty cheap. Here’s what you’ll need:
A stretchy net cap, a wig head, a interlocking needle, and the kinky hair of your choice. I went for the stretchy cap so I wouldn’t have to be bothered with attaching combs, and I chose 10 inch hair to limit the amount of cutting and shaping I would have to do when the wig was complete. All I really needed was a big poof of kinky hair, I figured I could do a roller set or twist-out on the finished wig to add dimension at the end if I ended up wanting something with more shape.
Start by pulling the cap over the face of the wig head. It’s more important to get a feel for the center of the net than to try to work around the physical features of the wig head. As long as you can keep everything in relation to the center seam of the stretchy net, you’re good.
The hair comes sectioned off, I split each mini loc in half and into thirds when I got to the top of the wig. I coated them with a bit of water and leave-in conditioner for softness.
The actual “crocheting” process was pretty easy. Go under the net with an open hook, hook facing downward. Then go through the net, insert your hair, close the hook. Then pull the hair through the loop and secure. You can choose to make another knot but this hair was so kinky it really didn’t need it. Boom, another shortcut.
I tried to separate every knot by two finger spaces but for a look like this, the thicker the better. I fluffed as I went and started to make the knots closer together toward the center. Any wig that doesn’t involve a part can be done this way. If it starts to look like a mushroom thats okay, you can cut and shape at the end.
Since I went with short hair I barely had to do any trimming. I tried a few techniques I learned from the video below this video but I actually could have worn it as is. Not to shabby for a shameless cheater? Lol
This article was written by Jascmeen Bush and published on CurlyNikki.
It’s officially been almost one year and six months that I’ve been natural. I couldn’t be more enthused about the current condition of my hair and the things I have learned along my journey. However, like many naturals, I recently hit a growth plateau. In other words, my hair just didn’t seem to be growing (or retaining”> at the same rate as it did at the beginning of my natural haircare journey. Here are some useful tips that can help naturals get over the hump:
Examine your routine
There is a saying that, “if it isn’t broken then don’t fix it.” I totally agree with this sentiment. However, the flipside of this notion is that if it is broke, then fix it. If something in your routine seems to not be working i.e. styling products, moisture regimen, protective styling, etc.…then you should figure out exactly what it is and either modify it or remove it completely from your routine.
Safeguard against breakage
When naturals say their hair isn’t growing they are oftentimes mistaken. In reality, all hair grows, even curly hair. Despite this, curly hair has more curves and bends which it make it particularly prone to breakage. This implies that while curly hair grows, it is breaking at the same rate. Find ways to minimize breakage and retain the length you’ve fought hard to achieve. My personal favorite methods are: finger detangling, protective styling, using a wide tooth comb, and adding an oil to my conditioner for slip.
Trim those ends
Being natural usually means our hair is in a much healthier state than when we permed our hair. Not only are we using products designed for multiethnic hair but we are no longer using chemicals, and very infrequently using heat. This means that our hair doesn’t need to be trimmed at the standard 6-8 weeks that many stylist recommended when we were relaxing. On the other hand, I still recommend doing a trim at least every four months, or three times a year. This will keep your spilt ends from turning into breakage.
Continue to educate yourself
I know some of you naturals may feel bamboozled by the thought of continually seeking out natural haircare information but this keeps you well aware of how to care for your natural hair. Reading that low porosity hair appreciates less protein and more moisture will prompt you to ditch your hardcore protein regimen and amp up on a hardcore moisture regimen.
Give your hair a break
Many naturals prefer washing and styling their hair on a weekly basis. However, constant manipulation can result in weaker hair and more breakage. Longstanding protective styles can give your hair a much needed break. I remember installing twist with my own hair for about three weeks and noticing how my hair grew. If you want to keep your hair growing then give your hair a break every couple of months.
Sometimes, the simplest tweaks in our routine makes the biggest difference. For example, during the winter months, I like to moisturize my hair twice a day. This keeps my hair from becoming brittle and unnecessarily breaking. While your routine should remain the same if it works, make sure you change it if doesn’t. By being open-minded and proactive, you’ll be well on your way to long, healthy hair.
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This article was written by by Keora Bernard and published on CurlyNikki.
I’ve become a straight hair natural… And I like it!! That’s right, I said it. I’ve been natural for 15 years, big chopped twice, and have nothing to prove. I love my natural curls. However, right now, I love the convenience and ease of straight hair a lot more! And, sometimes, that’s really all there is to it.
I’m about to share why I began straightening my hair regularly and how I have managed to do so for the majority of the last year without suffering heat damage (the latter of which always seems to be the mythical unicorn of the natural world ;”>.
Why I became a straight hair natural
I started straightening my hair around the 5th month of my pregnancy last year. When I realized that I could get at least 4 weeks out of straightened hair (sometimes 6″>, it was a no brainer given my increasing ungainliness and fatigue. When I had Wyntr in January, it again made sense as taking care of a newborn is two full-time jobs and I needed to give up my part-time (i.e. my hair on wash day”>. Then, as I was coming up on 3 months post-partum, I decided to straighten as a preemptive move to combat the threat of post-partum shedding. I figured that it would allow me to comb my hair between wash days in order to get rid of excessive shedding, making detangling easier when I did get around to washing it.
taking care of a newborn is two full-time jobs and I needed to give up my part-time (i.e. my hair on wash day”>
That’s the why. Following is the how. But first, two caveats. Number one: I do not care about having perfect hair 24/7. I don’t aim for bone straight hair and I live in a bun 99% of the time (Hello!! 8 month old!!”>. So, if you are looking for advice on keeping your natural hair straight and “laid” without heat damage … ummm … this may not be for you. Number two: I don’t have scalp issues, so I can easily go 4 weeks between wash days without excessive scalp build up/flakes.
How to prevent heat damage
Following are the steps I take and my products of choice. I don’t straighten my hair any more often than once every four weeks and if I can stretch it longer, I do.
First, prepare & protect
- Pre-poo to moisturize – with virgin coconut oil mixed with Aubrey Organics GPB and/or Honeysuckle Rose
- Clarify to start with a clean base – with Kinky Curly Come Clean Shampoo
- Protein treat to strengthen – with Sally’s GVP Joico K-Pak
- Deep Condition to moisturize – with Sally’s GVP Matrix Biolage Conditioning Balm
- Apply a leave-in* conditioner – with a small amount of Kinky Curly Knot Today mixed with aloe vera juice
- Apply a heat Protectant* – with Herbal Essences Tea-Lightfully Clean Blow Dry Prep Mist
*Note: I’ve found that it’s very important to use a leave-in and heat protectant that are light and don’t leave my hair tacky. This allows my hair to glide/flow once straighten and reduces the amount of lint and dust that it attracts.
When I realized that I could get at least 4 weeks out of straightened hair (sometimes 6″>, it was a no brainer
Straightening
There are two ways you can straighten your hair, I recommend choosing one or the other to control the amount of heat used on the hair:
Blow dry
- Use a quality tool – I use the Conair Infiniti Pro 3 in 1 Styler with double comb attachment
Flat iron
- Use a quality tool with temperature control – I use the BaByliss Nano Titanium Pro
- Use lower temperatures (280-320º max”>
- Take small 1″ sections
- Gently comb section well using a medium to fine tooth comb
- Two to three passes of the flat-iron on each section max
- Seal/Shine with Shea Moisture Raw Shea Reconstructor Elixir and/or Sally’s GVP Paul Mitchell Skinny Serum
Preserve your straight hair
- Never re-apply heat between washes (that’s a surefire way to cause heat damage”>.
- Use heat free styling techniques between wash days: braids, buns, rollersets, curlformers, flexirods, pin curls, etc.
- Bun, braid, pineapple, or pin-curl hair at night.
- Use a satin bonnet or scarf and sleep on a satin pillowcase.
- Use an edge control paste/gel (Ampro Protein Gel mixed with moisturizer – IKR??? Who knew?!; Curls Blueberry Bliss”>
- Use a terry-lined shower cap.
- Forget the umbrella for the rain, use a raincoat with drawstring hood.
- Apply a light moisturizer that doesn’t cause reversion, as needed – Wonder Curl Get Slick Hair Smoothie; Carol’s Daughter Healthy Hair Butter.**
- Apply a light oil as needed to seal moisture/add shine – Shea Moisture Raw Shea Reconstructor Elixir and/or Sally’s GVP Paul Mitchell Skinny Serum.**
- Oil scalp, as needed – Wild Growth Hair Oil.*
- Exercise with hair bunned and use an open-ended wig cap under a sweatband. (I’ll admit, I haven’t worked out with any type of consistency since the baby and my work-outs have been moderate in intensity. But, thus far, this has worked for me.”>
**Note: Again, it is important to use a light moisturizer and oil for maintenance to avoid tacky hair that attracts lint and dust. By reducing the amount of dirt the hair attracts, straight hair can be maintained for longer.
Finally, I do take a break between straight cycles sometimes with a stretched braid-out, twist-out, and even a WnG once! I also henna or henna gloss when I can. And those are my tips! Hope they help!
p.s. My hair is the longest that it’s ever been and the fullest it’s been in a long time following this regimen.
Have you ever heard of “curl envy?” It’s a phrase in the natural hair community that describes the desire to have someone else’s hair/curl pattern instead of your own. Sometimes the phrase is thrown around jokingly when you just really like another girl’s hairstyle, but if you truly have curl envy, you may want to reevaluate your natural hair journey. Especially if you’re a new natural, curl envy can be a real threat to your hair journey. It’s great to follow other naturals and have favorites who inspire you: this is a community, after all. But be careful not to start wishing you had someone else’s hair because this could easily translate over into how you treat your own hair. Here are some ways that curl envy can actually ruin your natural hair journey.
You’ll begin to hate your own hair
One of the first signs of serious curl envy could be that you start to dislike your own curl pattern because you find another person’s curl pattern more desirable/admirable. And when you hate your hair, you won’t be inclined to treat your hair with love, which could ultimately result in damage. It’s important to learn and love your own hair, so spend time discovering what your hair likes and dislikes, instead of observing someone else’s hair more than your own.
You’ll try to make your curl pattern look like theirs
Once you realize your curls just don’t act the way hers do, you may unknowingly find yourself doing anything to get your hair to cooperate the same way, from over-manipulating the hair to wasting money trying to buy the perfect product, and engaging in hair practices that only lead to damaged hair. Refrain from using heat, henna, or even color as just a means to alter your curl pattern. All curl patterns and hair types are beautiful, so focus on embracing what you have. Your own hair is unique, beautiful, and worthy of the proper care and maintenance to allow it to reach its fullest potential.
Related: Why Your Curls Don’t Look Like Hers (Even Though You’re the Same Curl Pattern”>
You’ll have unrealistic expectations
You have to spend time getting to know your hair in order to know what’s going to be the best routine for your curl pattern and texture. When you have curl envy, you may find that you have unrealistic expectations of how a certain style or product will make your hair look and feel. It’s not good to base your expectations of your hair off of someone else’s because you’ll be let down every time. Sometimes even if you have the same curl pattern as another girl, your hair still won’t act like theirs because other factors are involved, like moisture, porosity, thick vs. fine hair, or even how much damage the hair may have suffered. We always say that natural hair is not a one size fits all, so stay in your lane and take care of your hair. When you nurture your hair from the inside out, it will thank you for it. Type 4 hair can be undoubtedly prone to dryness and breakage, but it’s no less beautiful. It’s kinky, coily, curly, and awesome, so love it, embrace it, and enjoy the journey.
This article was written by Kanisha of BlackNaps.org and published on CurlyNikki.
Weigh in!
When I first began pondering my decision to go natural, I did several ‘prep myself’ sessions. This meant I inundated myself with everything natural. In retrospect, these ‘prep myself’ sessions were good because they gave me some information about what to expect after my big chop and what products to use on my hair. On the other hand, these sessions served as somewhat of a wish-list for what I thought would surely happen during my process. The following are my tips for how to deal with the unexpected when going natural:
Dealing with damage
While going natural is a beautiful thing, there are often unrealistic expectations of how natural hair should feel and look. Every natural’s head is different and contrary to popular belief, not everyone ends up with shiny, bouncy ringlets of hair. Even more significant, some naturals continue to deal with the after effects of previous chemical and heat usage. In essence, give your hair time to recover. It has probably been through a lot over the past several years.
Drier than a desert
Returning back to our curly textured hair will be liberating but also frustrating. Many of us were accustomed to perming our hair and how it functioned in a relaxed state. Becoming natural requires that you relearn everything about your hair and how it operates. The curves and bends make it difficult for moisture to travel down our hair shaft which causes dryness. Understanding why it happens and how to properly moisturize your hair will save you heaps of frustration and bewilderment.
Forget the stylist
I fondly remember the days of getting my hair freshly permed by my childhood stylist. Back then I loved the look, and my edges were always nicely laid by a pomade or gel. However, going natural means YouTube becomes your new hairstylist. It’s either that or pay a ridiculous amount of money to get a style you can do on your own. Embrace doing things for yourself and the tricks you learn along the way.
Slow motion for me
During our permed days, we should have adopted a motto that said, “Wash, set, and go!” This process may have appeared long to us but if we knew how much longer it would take to style our natural hair, we would have been more grateful. Styling natural hair takes considerably longer because of its density and propensity to tangle. Regardless, it’s much healthier and fuller than our permed hair was. If you’re feeling overwhelmed then break everything down in stages, and take breaks when needed.
Try by trial and error
During the days of Luster’s Pink Lotion and Dax, we were all pretty much using the same products. In its relaxed state, our hair all looked the same. However, now we have a variety of textures and hair concerns. This means that our natural hair may appreciate a completely different product than the next natural head. At the beginning, try our different techniques and products and then stick with the one that works for you.
Caring for natural hair isn’t a cakewalk but I think it’s a general consensus that naturals don’t desire to go back to relaxers. Deciding to go natural was the best decision of my life, giving me confidence in my Black features and overall power as a woman. On the other hand, going natural has a very feminine element to it. It shows us how to relinquish control and nurture what is before us. Love on those kinks, curls, and coils because your deepest essence supports it.
This article was written by Keora Bernard and published on CurlyNikki.
In a previous post we discussed the importance of conditioners to your hair care regimen. It is, in my opinion, the most important part. Given the role this product has in maintaining the health of our hair, we need to examine what we’ll likely find in conditioners that make them so important.
The main conditioning agent in conditioner is what’s called a cationic surfactant. Cations are positively charged particles and they are attracted to our negatively charged strands. They adsorb onto our hair meaning that they sit on our hair; they don’t penetrate. Additionally, they resist being washed off by water alone. They improve the hair’s softness, aid in detangling, help to seal the cuticle and make the hair more manageable.
The main conditioning agent in conditioner is what’s called a cationic surfactant.
Common cationic surfactants include:
• Behentrimonium methosulfate
• Cetrimonium chloride
• Cetrimonium bromide
• Stearalkonium chloride
Other cationic ingredients include the polymers. A polymer is a large molecule composed of repeating structural units. A cationic polymer therefore is a positively charged polymer used in skincare and haircare to increase conditioning and softness. Due to the positive charge these types of polymers will adsorb to our skin and hair, forming films and resulting in the following to the hair after the product is rinsed from the hair:
• Increased moisture
• Enhanced softness
• More flattened (as opposed to lifted”> cuticles
• Increased shine
Some cationic polymers are:
• Polyquaternium 7
• Polyquaternium 10
• Polyquaternium 4
• Polyquat 44
• Honeyquat
More about good conditioners
- Common Ingredients in Conditioners
- Characteristics of a Good Conditioner
- Secrets to Super Slippery Conditioners
- 4 Reasons Slip is Everything for a Curly Girl
- Ingredients for the Slip-Addicted Naturalista
- The Slip Awards: 6 Products with the Best Slip
This article was written by Susan Walker of Earthtones Naturals via Three Naturals and published on CurlyNikki.
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Do any of the conditioners you use contain any of the above ingredients? How does your hair look and feel after you use them?
I visited The Chicago Curl Collective, and Daria laid her hands on my hair. I have a lot of hair! When it comes to straightening it, that is one job I do not tackle on my own. Daria and I began to talk about the benefits of steaming your natural hair, and why you should add this step with your deep conditioning to your regimen at least once a month. I learned some valuable information about steaming that I wanted to share. I think it is very beneficial and can help your hair in many ways. I am all about having not only bomb twist-outs (lol”>, but overall health hair.
The benefits of steam
Steaming your hair helps to replenish what may be sucked out during our every day routines. Steaming also helps aid in greater moisture retention, which is very important. Steaming allows for deeper penetration into the cortex of the hair strand and you’ll see an overall improvement in pliability and elasticity of the hair strands (ability to manipulate and stretch the hair strands without them snapping off and breaking”> as well as an increase in hydration. The greatest benefit is that steaming is 5x’s more effective in restoring moisture to dehydrated hair than conditioner only or even conditioner and sitting under a hooded dryer. And that ladies, is awesome sauce!
I have a handheld steamer that I love (Q-Redew“>, I am also looking into purchasing a standing steamer like the ones used in professional salons. I just love the way my hair feels when I steam! Rejuvenated and ready to conquer the world!
Read more: How to Make Your Deep Conditioner Work Better
This article was written by Michelle Thames of HappilyEverNatural.com and published on CurlyNikki.
Do you use a steamer? Do you think it helps your hair in any way? Thoughts?
We love wearing our naturally curly hair, but on the days that we choose to change things up and rock straight hair we want everything to go smoothly (pun intended”>. Nobody wants to spend 2+ hours straightening your hair and giving your arms a serious workout, only to step outside and have your hair instantly curl all over again. Or to find that at the end of an arduous straightening session you are not left with silky straight hair that blows in the wind, but a head of hair that feels stiff as straw. And the worst possible outcome would be that after this short-lived trip to the straight side, we discover that our curls have been damaged and won’t be coming back.
Emilia Obiekea of AdoreBotanicals has found that she can avoid all of that by following this pre-flat ironing routine.
The biggest issues for naturals when flat ironing
- Premature reversion
- Maintaining moisture
- Avoiding heat damage
Maintaining my hair when I have flat ironed it used to be a losing task. I have found that moisturizing my hair starts before ever applying any direct heat. This is my go to process:
Preparing the hair for straightening (2 weeks prior”>
- I prepoo my hair overnight with an infused carrier oil blend. Usually coconut oil.
- In the morning lightly detangle to remove shed hair. Wash my hair with a clarifying shampoo.
- Do a mid-level protein treatment. I use commercial and diy protein treatments. For more info about the diy version read more here.
- Follow up with a moisturizing deep conditioning mask. I apply it and use the hooded dryer for 30 minutes.
- Lastly, I use a protein rich leave in conditioner and layer on a blend of ceramide rich oils. This combo is wonderful for reinforcing the strength in hair.
- I’m sure to style my hair in low tension and low manipulation styles for the week. This reduces the likelihood of experiencing unnecessary breakage.
Flat ironing process
- Prepoo the hair overnight with an infused oil blend. (again”>
- The following morning detangle and cleanse with a moisturizing shampoo. Since I only used water soluble ingredients, the week prior, there’s no need for another clarifying shampoo wash.
- Use a moisturizing deep conditioner for 30 minutes under a hooded dryer. Allow the conditioner to cool completely before rinsing out with cool water.
These are the most vital steps to lock in the moisture
- While the hair is lightly damp apply an anti-humectant moisturizer.
- Apply an oil blend + a silicon based serum. Be sure not to use any carrier oils that are heavy (ex: castor oil”>. Heavy oils weight the hair down. I like to use Daily Dew oil.
- Detangle from the ends to the roots. Twist the hair. Let it air dry in the twist. This prevents it from tangling.
- Once fully dry section the hair. Flat iron at no higher than 250° in small sections using the chase method. Do not do more than 2 passes with the flat iron. The temp for the flat iron is up to you. Generally there’s no need to go above 350°.
Fini!
You can blow dry the hair prior to flat ironing if you like. I do not like to use direct heat often and i find that there is no need to blow-dry before straightening. I’ve never had heat damage or premature reversion with this method. Also my hair remained moisturized for 2 weeks due to this process.
This process addresses and resolves all 3 of the main issues we naturals have with straightened hair. Give it a try and let us know how well it has worked for you as well.
This article was written by Emilia Obiekea of AdoreBotanicals.com and published on CurlyNikki.
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Deep conditioning natural hair is one of the most effective ways to achieve one’s hair goals. Deep conditioning makes the hair softer, more pliable, and shinier than a regular conditioning session. If I took a before and after picture of my deep conditioning session, you would immediately understand what I am speaking about. However, how many of us have an effective process to deep condition our hair? Quickly slathering on your favorite conditioner doesn’t always yield the maximum benefits of a deep conditioning session. Here are my tips for getting a bomb.com deep conditioning session:
Please pre-poo
For those of you unfamiliar with the term, pre-pooing is a process in which naturals use an oil and/or conditioner on their hair before washing it. This process is supposed to minimize shedding and breaking during the washing and styling sessions. The more lubricated your hair is, the easier it will be to work through your strands and the less breakage you’ll have while applying your conditioner of choice.
Apply heat
This step is important because it helps open the cuticle of the strand. This is especially pertinent to naturals with low porosity hair since their cuticles are tightly bound. By opening the cuticles, the strands of the hair receive the conditioner and reap the full benefits. You can use a steamer which is a great way of opening up those cuticles, but less expensive options include heating up your deep conditioner or using a plastic cap formulated for deep conditioning. Not to mention, you can get a little body heat from doing housework or taking a brisk walk around the neighborhood.
Related: Top 20 Deep Conditioners for Curly Hair
Section your hair
I know some of you naturals are dead set against any type of hair tool but sectioning clips are some kind of wonderful for me. They help me figure out where I am and where I am about to go. Generally, I use three to four clips for my deep conditioning session. Afterwards, I bunch up the section of hair that I am planning to condition and apply conditioner to the ends and entire hair shaft. Once I am done, I twist the hair in at least 12 to 15 sections.
Finger detangle first
Out of all the tips I am going to give you, finger detangling is one of the most important. I have seen my hair shedding and breakage cut down in half when I implement finger detangling in my deep conditioning sessions. Using my fingers, and in particular my thumb fingers have saved my precious strands. Even if you want to use a tool then do so. However, my recommendation is using it after your deep conditioning session. Your hair will be more pliable and by taking it a step further and using a leave-in, less hair will be loss.
Wait it out
If you slab on some conditioner and only let it sit for 5 minutes then I am afraid you are not really deep conditioning your hair. Generally, deep conditioning sessions are at least 15-30 minutes, and I believe that is if you have a nice amount of heat to open the cuticles. If not, make your session at least an hour. Your hair will thank you for leaving it on a little longer than what the directions say. Just make sure you rinse your hair thoroughly when you’re done.
It took me about a year to really figure out how to effectively deep condition my hair. I also realized the importance of not performing any shortcuts when doing these sessions because it made a big difference with how my hair looked and felt afterwards. Deep conditioning your hair is a delicate dance which means time and patience are vital. Regardless, your hair will thrive because of it.
This article was written by Keora Bernard and published on CurlyNikki.
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What are your deep conditioning dos and don’ts?!
Win-win!
What you’ll need
- 1 whisk
- 1 bowl
- A few ice trays
- 1 dye applicator bottle
- 2 cups of raw aloe vera gel
- 1 can of full fat coconut milk – Gotta have the fat. My hair isn’t on a diet lol. Besides it is wonderful for your hair so no need for any substitutes.
- *Optional: You can add some essential oils to the mix for fragrance or necessity. It is good to use an essential oil, such as tea tree, if you have dandruff.
Directions
- Mix both items together with a whisk.
- Pour a few ounces into a dye applicator bottle. Usually 2-4 oz is enough for most lengths of hair. Adjust the amount accordingly.
- Pour the remaining mix into ice trays. Freeze them and store in freezer safe zip lock bags.
How to apply it
- Use the dye applicator bottle to apply the solution to the scalp. Massage the scalp very well for about 1 minute.
- Apply the remaining mixture to the length of the hair. Use a smoothing motion to fully saturate your hair.
- Pin up your hair, complete your shower routine and then rinse and massage your hair and scalp clean.
The results
This leaves the hair and scalp feeling very clean and refreshed without drying them out. This cleanser is most effective if only water soluble products are used on you hair. If you use products that are difficult to remove, it is best to use a cleanser with a mild surfactant.
Prep
1. Coconut oil pre-poo for 30 minutes with a plastic cap
2. Co-wash and detangle with Aussie Moist (first with fingers, then with Bass brush in sections”>
3. Rinse thoroughly and tie on a t-shirt for 10 minutes to handle the drippies
Style
- Remove t-shirt and spray on Creme of Nature’s Argan Oil Leave-in
- Divide hair into 4 sections and start with the back-right. Grab a smaller piece from that section and apply a very liberal amount (I’ve never got flakes and I use a lot”> of Creme of Nature’s Argan Oil Foaming Mousse before rolling it on an orange perm rod (the big ass ones”>, using the corkscrew method illustrated here and here. It was actually Michelle’s video that inspired me to try the style a few months ago–I use the same products and roll up extra, extra tight (leaving no air-space between revolutions around the roller”>!
- Roll bigger/larger pieces of hair in the back and make sure the roller is taught at the root. In the front, I roll smaller sections and let the roller dangle a little at the root because it makes for better picking and fluffing later. All in all, I end up with about 30 rollers. I tried using smaller rollers in the back but things got weird. I get consistent results using the same size rollers.
- Air-dry over night
- Remove rollers, separate curls and focus the fluffing at the crown, front of the head and just behind the crown. I leave the sides and back (near the nape”> mostly untouched. I use a metal pick and my scalp massager to create volume.
- Hit the roots of the crown with a little heat (using an air concentrator attachment”>. This creates even more volume and a dramatic, bob-effect since you haven’t touched the nape and sides.
Sleep
- Since the damn thing is so shrunken, pineappling would be the death of it. I simply pass out on my satin pillow case. Also, since the sides and back aren’t fluffed out, I can lay on them with no worries– all they do is keep their flat/shrunken shape while the top is allowed to be great.
- In the morning, if necessary, I smooth on a light oil or serum and go about my day.
The style lasts for 4-5 days… sometimes longer if I sleep cute. I like the Creme of Nature products just fine– Michelle recommended them, they’re cheap (the ingredients are too, tho”>, easy to find and yield shiny, fluffy, long-lasting results. My hair has never dried crunchy and I’m really heavy-handed. I tried Jane Carter’s Twist-Out Foam and Wrap and Roll with crunchy, flaky results. #Nope
[prodmod]This article was originally written by and published on CurlyNikki.
It takes just the right blend of water (for moisture”> and emollients (for smoothing”> to tame coils and curls. The emollients are the tricky part. Too heavy and they’ll weigh your hair down, too light and you’ll end up with frizz.
What you need to know first
To find the right leave-ins for your hair, it’s important that you understand your “strand thickness,” otherwise known as “hair width“, which can be categorized as “fine to medium” or “medium to thick”. When you see those words on a product label, they’re not referring to how much hair you have; they’re describing the thickness of each individual strand on your head.
The words “coarse” and “thick” are used interchangeably, but they both refer to the size of individual strands of hair. Your “strand thickness” isn’t determined by your ethnic background. Two women may have similar looking coils, but one woman’s strands might be twice the size of the others. The only way to know exactly where your hair falls would be to visit a trichologist or dermatologist who has a special microscope that measures strand size.
Fine hairs are around 60 micrometers in diameter; thick hairs are around 100 micrometers. However, you don’t need to be that exact. The tell-tale sign of fine hair is thick-looking roots with a thin-looking ponytail. If you have fine hair, you’re likely to have a lot of strands. Those strands look nice and dense near the roots, but as the hair grows longer, the relative thinness of the strands becomes more noticeable.
The strand thickness slightly varies on different parts of your head, so it can still be difficult to decide how to categorize your hair. Don’t worry about getting too specific, you just need a general idea, so you can find products that make your hair look and feel the way you want. Choose your leave-in conditioners and stylers based on the emollients that you see in the top 5.
Choose your leave-in conditioners and stylers based on the emollients that you see in the top 5.
If you think your strands are fine to medium, choose products that contain lightweight emollients. If you think your strands are on the thicker side, look for products that contain heavier emollients. Whether you’re using a leave-in conditioner or styler, you need to be able to distribute the product evenly, from root to tip, without worrying that it will leave your hair looking greasy.
Lighter emollients for fine to medium thickness
- Argan oil
- C12-15 alkyl bbenzoate
- Dimethicone
- Grapeseed oil
- Mango butter
- Phenyl trimethicone
- Soybean oil
- Sunflower oil
- Sweet almond oil
Heavier emollients for medium to coarse thickness
- Avocado oil
- Castor oil
- Cetyl esters
- Cocoa butter
- Coconut oil
- Jojoba oil
- Olive oil
- Mineral oil
- Shea butter
- Sorbitol esters
This article was written by Nicole Harmon, author of Coils & Curls: The Hair Product Handbook, and published on CurlyNikki.
Have you figured out your strand thickness? What helped you decide?
Keep your hair moisturized
Spritz some water on it before bed to keep it moisturized through the night. Yeah, by now you are tired of hearing this right? Moisture, moisture, moisture (I don’t know why marsha, marsha, marsha just popped in my head from the Brady bunch”> but I kind of like that. Don’t let Marsha get all the attention at the party because you forgot to keep your hair moisturized like Marsha, and her hair is now on FLEEK!
Pineapple your hair
You worked way to hard on that twist out, braid out, or rod set for it to go to waste in one day! Pineapple your hair (under your satin bonnet or with your satin Pillowcase”> so that your curls last more than just one day. I live for 4th and 5th day hair!
Sleep on a satin pillowcase or in a satin bonnet
This is the most important tip right here! Cotton pillowcases will snatch your edges left and right and cause major breakage. I know we all had that one day where we were just too tired to tie our hair up and took one for the team. Well let that be the only time you do that. Cotton pillowcases wick the moisture from your hair which is bound to cause breakage, of which we do not want! So this step is a must it cannot be skipped, you cannot pass go or collect your $200!
You can also apply all of these tips for your child’s hair as well. It’s important to also protect your little ones hair just like yours.
This article was written by Michelle Thames of HappilyEverNatural.com and published on CurlyNikki.
How do you protect your hair at night? What is your routine?
We can apply as many products and concoctions to our hair as we want, but if our bodies aren’t healthy on the inside then we certainly won’t look our best on the outside. It’s important that we all stay physically active to be healthy, but there’s no denying that this can create challenges for our hair routines. Although we no longer have to worry about “sweating out our perm”, us natural ladies have other issues we must address when working out.
Pick a style that works with you (not against you”>
This is a big issue for us as some styles take hours to complete and we don’t want that to be ruined after one trip to the gym. So, my tip is to either wear wash-n-gos that can be easily redone, or protective styles. My hair is not wash-n-go friendly, so I tend to wear lots of individual twists or flat twist/braided updos that will last a few days. This helps to keep my hair moisturized and also saves time so I don’t have to redo my hair every day.
Don’t let sweat dry you out
The first and easiest measure you can take is to wear a sweat band or scarf, however we all know that it’s hard to contain all of that FROtastic hair. And not to meantion, the more you sweat, the BIGGER and more out of control it gets. The two tips I have for you are to A.”> seal in your moisture before your workout and as soon as you can after or B.”> rinse or cowash your hair after your workout to start with fresh, clean hair the next day. As I said above, I wearing mostly protective styles, but I also do a mid week cowash to help cleanse my scalp. Some other naturals also find that just doing a quick rinse with water helps after a workout as well.
Schedule a hair appointment – for yourself
Our lives are busy enough without adding a workout routine into the mix, so making a schedule for our hair is very important. If you know you are going to work out on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, then you can make Sunday and/or Wednesday your hair spa day. When your “hair appointment” is scheduled with yourself you don’t feel rushed and you are able to give your hair the TLC it needs.
Whatever you decide, make a routine and stick to it. Keeping a good routine holds you accountable and makes it easier to juggle every thing going on in your life. We work hard for our healthy hair and our healthy body so take some time to keep it that way.
How do you care for your hair when you work out?
This article was written by Tasha of Just Curlz and published on CurlyNikki.
I have been doing hot oil treatments since I was pretty young. I remember my mother buying these tubes of oil that were to be left in a cup of hot water for a certain amount of time. My mother would pierce the tube and squeeze wonderfully warm oil all over my head and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes before rinsing out. This was always the best part of getting my hair done.
I decided to start making my own hot oil treatments, and it seems as if the gates to some wonderfully happy place just opened up. I started with warming just plain old extra virgin olive oil and applying it to my hair and scalp for about an hour or so. I would then wrap my hair in plastic cling wrap, a shower cap or a plastic bag if that was the only thing available. After rinsing the oil out and shampooing once, my hair was soft like silk and shined so beautifully. I honestly couldn’t believe it. I immediately went to work researching how certain oils benefit the hair and scalp.
Best oils for hot oil treatments
- Coconut oil – It stimulates hair growth, softens the hair and conditions the scalp. It also can also help eliminate dandruff!
- Olive oil – Olive oil is high in the antioxidants Vitamins A and E providing anti-aging properties and it has disinfectant properties, is moisturizing, soothing and healing.
- Castor oil – Adds strength to your hair, so those of you with thin hair that breaks easily, think about using castor oil in your hot oil hair pack.
- Almond oil – It helps condition, nourish, and soften hair while stimulating hair growth!
- Jojoba oil – It leaves your hair soft and light, without weighing it down.
All of these oils should be available at your local health food store, and a few of them are available at your local chemist and supermarkets.
What you will need:
- Oil blend
- Hot water
- Towel
- Plastic shower cap, plastic cling wrap, or plastic bag
How to apply your hot oil treatment
- Put your oil in a heat safe plastic bottle or glass container
- Place the container in a pot of hot water for a minute or two
- Test on wrist and then apply oil to scalp, roots and length of hair
- Massage oil into your scalp for about five minutes
- Cover hair with a plastic cap
- Dip towel in hot water to make it hot. Ring out the excess water and wrap towel around your head.
- Allow the oil to sit on your hair for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight
Warming the oil and towel will allow the hair follicle to open up so that the oils can soak in all the goodness. It’s ok if your towel doesn’t stay warm for very long, the oils will soak in…trust me!
Rinse the oil out of your hair in the shower and follow-up with a shampoo or conditioner. The end result should be soft and shiny hair!
May I mix several oils together?
Absolutely! Mix until you find your perfect oil blend. If you suffer from a dry and flaky scalp, you may want to mix coconut and castor oil together in a jar and put it away for those hectic flaky weeks. Do you want to thicken your hair and possibly boost hair growth? Mix almond and castor oil together and go wild.
Read more: Benefits of Blended Oils for Healthy Hair
Notes
- You hair does not need to be drenched in oil, so don’t worry about going broke behind this.
- You can do these treatments weekly if you want and have time.
- Keep track of how certain oils make your hair look and feel, so that you can find a perfect oil blend.
- The oil mix need not be very hot, warm oils suffice!
This article was written by Kavuli Nyali-Binase via TheGoodHairDiaries and published on CurlyNikki.
Are hot oil treatments helping you to reach your healthy hair goals?
Over the years I have noticed major changes in my hair since I started mostly conditioner washing (co-washing”>. I love a little shampoo now and again but co-washing is where it’s at!
Some may think of washing without shampoo as gross, or as a less effective (or ineffective”> way of cleansing the hair. Not true! Co-washing is a great option for gently cleansing your natural hair. You can use conditioner to cleanse your scalp and strands and get awesome results (assuming you use CG friendly styling products”>. Although many shampoos today are straying away from harsh ingredients such as sulfates, many still contain harsh ingredients. They will strip your hair and leave it feeling icky, stiff and hard to detangle. So co-washing has its benefits:
- It reduces knots and tangles
- It helps moisturize and nourish your hair (great if you are a transitioner”>
- Great for hydrating and fortifying your scalp and hair
I know co-washing is not for everyone, but give it a try if you are not getting the results that you would like with shampooing. It’s nice to be able to co- wash if you want to do a different style in between washing. I recently started co-washing my little one’s hair and I have noticed a major difference in the appearance of her hair. It’s shiny and very moisturized. I have also noticed with my hair that it isn’t dull like it previously was before I began mainly co-washing. It now has brilliant shine and the moisture is on “fleek” LOL!
Here are some good conditioners for co washing:
- Herbal Essences Hello Hydration (old school, LOL!”>
- TREsemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture Conditioner
- As I am Coconut cleansing Co-Wash
- Edenbodyworks Coconut Cowash
- Mielle Organics Dew Berry Co-wash (I use this one on my little one”>
As you pick and choose the products and methods that are going to keep your hair healthy, it is important that you don’t make the mistake of trying to moisturize your hair with a sealant. Likewise, you do not want to lose the valuable moisture you apply to your hair because you neglected to use a sealant. Understanding the difference between moisturizing and sealing could be crucial to your healthy hair journey.
What is moisturizing?
Some synonyms for “moisturize” are dampen, drench and saturate… words associated with water. Simply put, to moisturize means “to make wet.” Therefore, true moisture comes from either water itself or products that are water-based. You’ll know if your product is water-based if the very first ingredient on the label is good ole H2O. Many leave-in conditioners have this makeup and are great follow-ups to your wash session. Aloe vera juice has also proven to be an effective moisturizer.
Some of our favorite water-based moisturizers are Oyin Hair Dew, Curl Junkie Smooth Assurance, Karen’s Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia Leave-In and Obia Curl Moisture Cream. For more of our favorite water-based moisturizers, read here.
p.s. Don’t neglect moisturizing your hair from within by drinking lots of water!
And what is sealing?
After you apply your leave-in or moisturizer (in effect, “making your hair wet””>, the next step is to seal that moisture in. Oils and butters fall into the sealant category, and they are most effective if used while the hair is slightly damp and/or after applying your leave-in or moisturizer.
If your hair is prone to dryness and you only apply an oil or butter without having moisturized it first, you’re basically sealing in dryness, which does nothing for the health of your hair. Instead of having the elasticity associated with healthy hair, it will continue to be susceptible to breakage when manipulated. Dryness is the top cause of breakage for naturally coily/kinky hair so you’ll want to make sure that you stay on top of this if you want your hair to thrive.
Overall oils and butters will not moisturize your hair, but some oils do have moisturizing properties because they can penetrate the shaft, while others are best used as sealants. For a full list of the best oils for each purpose, read here.
If you are looking to add a sealant to your routine, some of our favorites are jojoba oil, rice bran oil, Belle Butters Unyevu Butter and Elaine Hair and Body Pomegranate Mango Butter.
Take a look back at this article for more tips on properly moisturizing your strands!
Tell me, how do YOU retain a good amount of moisture in your hair? What are some of your favorite products to get the job done? Share below!
[prodmod]This article was written by Toia B of LuvToBNatural and published on CurlyNikki.
Suffering from way too much shedding?
Many have heard of tea rinsing as a solution for excessive hair shedding, but a less popular and even more effective rinse can be done with coffee.
What is DHT?
Dihydrotestosterone (DHT”> is a naturally occurring metabolite of the testosterone hormone made by the body. Both men and women have testosterone. A man’s body makes much more testosterone than a woman’s body.
How does DHT affect us?
DHT is a key element of male pattern baldness, alopecia and other significant hair loss. It shortens the life cycle of our hair.
The hair has 3 phases in the growth cycle. They are
- anagen (growth phase”>
- catagen (transisiton phase”>
- telogen (resting phase”>
The time the hair spends in each phase varies from person to person. The variation is largely impacted by heredity and illnesses. The normal time span spent in each phase is generally: 2-6 years for anagen, 1-2 weeks for catagen and 5-6 weeks for telogen. It will just repeat from there.
DHT stunts the anagen phase and extends the telogen phase. Over time the follicles become smaller, and the hair grows in shorter with a finer texture. This accelerates your hair loss.
What does this have to do with coffee?
Coffee is wonderful for greatly reducing the effects of DHT. Caffeine aids in blocking DHT. Coffee has a significantly larger amount of caffeine than most teas. This makes it a much more successful rinse for hair loss reduction.
Will it work better if I drink the coffee instead?
No. Drinking coffee and using it externally are totally different. Applying it topically is the best method for optimal results.
Benefits of coffee for shedding
- Provides a nice shine to the hair.
- Stimulates the follicles.
- Blocks DHT.
- Greatly reduces shedding.
- Enriches brown to black colored hair (natural or dyed”>.
*Note: If your hair is light in color do not do this rinse. It can darken your hair.
Conditioning Coffee Rinse
What you’ll need
- 1 large deep plastic bowl
- 1 medium bowl
- 1/4 cup of ground caffeinated coffee (not instant”>
- 3 cups of distilled water
- 2 tablespoons of your favorite herb (optional”>
Directions
- Brew your coffee as normal. Allow it to cool.
- Pre-poo and cleanse your hair.
- Place the large bowl in the sink. I find it easier to do this way. Can be done in the shower as well.
- Pour the cooled coffee over your hair, while leaning over the deum size bowl in the sink. This will catch the run off. Massage your scalp. Repeat this step several times.
- Gently squeeze the hair. Wrap a towel around your hair.
- Allow the coffee to penetrate your hair and scalp for 5-10 mins then rinse.
- Deep condition with your favorite moisturizing conditioner.
This is not something that would need to be a regular part of your regimen. Using it on an as-needed basis has been best for me.
This article was written by Emilia Obiekea of Adore Botanicals, LLC and published on CurlyNikki.
