Search Results: Nikki Walton

3 Reasons Your Child’s Hair is Prone to Breakage

So we all know that infant hair snaps right off if the wind blows too hard, but what about toddler hair. Do you feel like your toddler’s hair is breaking or balding? I know my toddler was and that is why I had to really sit down and see what was causing her hair to snap off instead of grow out long like I thought it should be.

After thinking through our routines and looking at our habits I finally figured out 5 reasons that my baby girl’s hair was more prone to breakage. I definitely wanted to share them because I know I couldn’t be the only mom dealing with toddler hair breakage.

Reason #1

Tying a head scarf on a toddler before bed and expecting it to stay on is like tying floss around a boat and expecting it to stay docked at the harbor. It just doesn’t work. So to get around this nonsense, I have opted for child size hair bonnets and I also use satin pillow cases on Mackenzie’s pillows now. So even if she somehow slips out of her bonnet which usually happens, she will still be laying her curls on a satin pillow case so we’re all good there.

When she was sleeping on cotton pillow cases, I noticed that her hair at her nape was very dry in the mornings and roughed up. Now it’s much the same as when she went to bed.

Reason #2

Your toddler may need more protective styling. I used to go for the two huge puff balls because hey let’s be honest, they are easy to do in the mornings when I am rushing. Those huge puffs were leaving the back portion of her hair so vulnerable though. So when she laid down at daycare, she was creating friction on the hair at her nape and then the puffs were also easily becoming tangled, so it was basically a mess. 

Now I style Mackenzie’s hair on Sundays. I install small two strand twists in the back of her head and then do three ponytails in the front and twist that hair up as well. 

Reason #3

I had to finally take a look at products. So when I was doing those puffs on Kenzie’s hair, I was using a few spritz of leave in on her edges just so I could smooth her hair up into the puffs. It was definitely not doing her hair any justice. Now when I twist her hair up for the week. I thoroughly cleanse, condition and moisturize her hair and then throughout the week, I mist her twists with a good leave in to make sure they are still moist and not drying out.

I am really focusing on a low manipulation healthier care routine for her hair now and I am anxious to see the results of this change. Taking a moment to really think all aspects of her hair situation over allowed me to really take stock of the various factors that were hindering her hair growth or causing breakage so now I think we are well on our way to Rapunzel style hair.

This article was written by Christian Byshe on www.chicandcoily.com and published on CurlyNikki.

Weigh in with your tips!

This is Why Your Natural Hair is So Dry

One of the complaints I hear all the time is “my hair is so dry!” A few days ago, while in CVS two young ladies walked up to me and said, “what do you put in your hair? It looks so healthy and soft. Mine is so dry”. Right there in the hair care aisle, we chatted about natural hair and dryness.

Today I’m sharing some of the things we talked about. Here are 5 reasons why your natural hair may be dry.

You’re doing it wrong…

Depending on your hair’s porosity, some of us will need to moisturize more often than others. If your hair is colored, you will also need to moisturize more often.

No matter how often you moisturize, if you’re not doing it properly you will still have dry hair. There are a various layering methods that are used, the most popular of which are the LOC method (created by BlackOnyx77“> or the LCO method. I’ve even heard of the LOCS method, which finishes up with a sealant.

Despite the method you choose, always remember the basics. Water based products (the ones providing the moisture”> should always be followed by oil/butter based products which seal in or prevent the moisture from escaping quickly. Remember to pay extra attention to your ends.

You forgot to deep treat…

Deep conditioning is a step that I never skip in my hair routine. I can safely say that my hair’s ability to retain moisture partly comes from deep conditioning. When you deep condition, you replenish your hair’s moisture and you improve its elasticity and overall health. 

The frequency and type of deep conditioner you use is ultimately up to you. I try to deep condition at least every 10 days or whenever I wash my hair. If deep conditioning is not part of your regimen and you’re having issues with dryness, you should add this step immediately.

You have build-up (from products and co-washing”>

So you’re deep conditioning regularly but you still experience dryness. What gives!?

Well, it is highly possible that you may have product build up on your hair and scalp. As naturals, we often use products rich in oils and butters in an effort keep our hair moisturized. These very products can build up on your hair, and over time affect its ability to take in moisture.  What can you do about it? You will need to clarify/detox your hair.  I detox my hair about every 6 weeks or so using either Bentonite Clay, Rhassoul Clay or a Bobeam Shampoo Bar. Clarifying basically strips your hair of any and all product and gives you a clean slate to work with.

You need a trim

We all know that the ends are the oldest part of our hair and consequently the driest. If your ends are dry, it could mean that you aren’t moisturizing enough (or properly”>, but it could also mean that it’s time for a trim. I can always tell when I need a trim, my hair doesn’t retain moisture as well, my styles don’t look as great and my hair just generally isn’t at its best.

Please do not hold on to old, dry ends for the sake of length. Please believe me when I tell that a proper trim will breathe new life into your hair. Not only will your hair retain moisture better, your hair will look better.

Since my hair cut at the beginning of the year, I have committed to getting scheduled trims every 3 months, partly because I like to keep my hair shaped. The frequency of your trim depends on the state of your ends, but if you’re struggling with dry hair and you haven’t had a trim in a minute, this may be the solution to your problems.

Your weather conditions

Here in Dallas, we experience some extremely hot temperatures during the summer months. Even if it’s officially fall, we are still experiencing warm weather (I’m not mad about that”>. I have personally experienced my hair being “fried” because of the heat. Similarly, as the winter weather approaches, the colder temperatures can cause your hair to be extremely dry.

Moisturizing your hair properly, deep conditioning as well as tucking/protecting your ends can make a huge difference in how dry your hair gets. In the fall/winter, protective styling is particularly popular among naturals because it’s a great way keeps your hair tucked away.

BONUS: Another environmental factor that can cause dryness is hard water. If you have hard water installing a shower filter is a quick, easy, effective fix.

This article was written by by Vashti Patrick-Joseph of Veepeejay.com  and published on CurlyNikki.

How do you prevent dry natural hair? How do you keep your situation moist?

How to Ensure Your Sew-in is Actually Protective
Photo by andresr — Getty Images

Hey folks! I’ve decided to use a full sew-in weave as a protective style for a while. I am very happy with my decision to do this, but I thought I should go into serious detail regarding the maintenance of my hair underneath. Out of sight, out of mind does NOT apply when it comes to your hair. Let me state that this is how I CHOOSE TO TAKE CARE OF MY HAIR during the weave process. Take what you will from it and tweak what you need to. Let’s get started…

Before You Install the Weave:

  1. Wash and deep condition the hair with your choice of gentle and quality products.
  2. Moisturize the length of the hair using the L.O.C. Method.
  3. Air dry
  4. Take the weave that you are going to install and wash it. I clarify and deep condition the hair the same way I would my own hair. Go in the same direction as the cuticle and don’t tangle the hair. I may or may not use heat during the conditioning process. ( It’s crazy how much hair dye comes out of the weave when you wash it.”> If you are using virgin hair, this process may or may not be necessary.
  5. Be sure to wash the weave in warm water and rinse the conditioner out in cold water. This will help the weave to be very soft when it dries.
  6. Let the weave air dry.

After You Install the Weave:

  1. Get a spray bottle or an applicator bottle with the narrow nozzle. Fill it up with your favorite liquid moisturizer. S-curl is awesome to use, but if you don’t have that then you can always dilute your favorite cheapie conditioner with water, add glycerine and natural oils.
  2. Lift up each track and spray or squeeze your moisturizer on the braids. This is time consuming, but completely necessary and it feels good.
  3. Get another applicator bottle and fill it with your favorite oil to seal the moisturizer in the hair. Be sure to get the oil on your hair and scalp and not the weave.
  4. Use the tips of your fingers to massage everything in. It will feel great!
  5. Style as usual and cover with a silk or satin scarf or bonnet for bed.  Maintaining extensions is time consuming and requires a lot of patience. Cleansing and washing your hair properly is imperative to maintaining optimal hair health. Next, you’ll find the steps I take to clean my hair with a sew-in weave. 

Be sure to Wash Your Real Hair Underneath and the Weave

  1. Start by combing through the hair with a wide tooth comb to remove all tangles. If you are wearing a curly weave, then I would use my fingers to detangle. Start from the ends to the roots.
  2. Fill a spray bottle up with diluted shampoo and spray the scalp and hair. Use the method of spraying in between each track to get as close as possible to the scalp. Proceed by spraying the rest of the weave.
  3. Rinse the shampoo out of the hair using warm water and a wide tooth comb. Make sure that you rinse the scalp thoroughly and removing all of the soap from the scalp.
  4. Apply your favorite conditioner the same way you applied the shampoo, but let the conditioner sit on the hair for a while. * I am crazy about keeping my weave soft and smooth, and one of the ways I do that is with a good conditioner. Your weave will thank you!*
  5. Rinse the conditioner out and let your hair air dry. DO NOT APPLY any oils to the hair weave, and do try to limit your use of a heated appliance.
  6. Hair should be washed weekly!

Caring for Your Real Hair

I am obsessive about keeping my hair under the weave healthy and strong. There is no point of wearing a protective style if your refuse to care for your hair.

Moisturize – I am obsessive about keeping my hair moisturized underneath a sew-in weave. My go to choice of moisturizer is a braid spray. I will use a braid spray or moisturizer generously on the hair every other day. This takes care of my scalp as well, and it ensures that I won’t have dry/brittle hair when I remove the braids. 

Oiling – My scalp can get very dry under a weave and it isn’t uncommon for me to experience a few flakes. Oiling my scalp nightly is something I try to do faithfully. Purchasing a bottle with a thin nozzle, or a spray bottle and filling it with your favorite oil will do the trick. Apply this this oil liberally to the natural hair only. You don’t want to get your sew-in weave greasy as this will ruin the quality of hair.

Washing – The natural hair and weave hair must be washed weekly no matter what. Healthy hair grows out of a clean and healthy scalp. Being in a weave is no excuse to not wash the hair. I am careful to use a sulfate-free shampoo during this time.

Deep Conditioning – After shampooing the hair and weave, I apply a deep conditioner on both the weave hair and my exposed hair and sit under a hooded dryer for at least 30 minutes. The natural hair and weave love this process, and it also helps to keep the hair moist.

Protect Your Hairline – I protect my hairline by massaging castor oil into it every single night and while styling, if I remember. Weaves and braids can wreak havoc on the hairline if you are not careful. Take the necessary precaution by massaging and applying castor oil as often as possible. Also, during installation, make sure the braids aren’t too taught.

This article was written by Kavuli of Good Hair Diaries and published on CurlyNikki.

Have you used a sew-in weave as a protective style?  How do you care for your hair under the weave?

5 Ultimate Butters and Oils for Winter

We’ve been talking much about how protective styles in conjunction with moisturizing and sealing can be most beneficial for your hair this fall. To keep the theme going, I thought I’d run down a few of the oils and butters I like to use to keep my hair in the best shape possible as the temperatures drop.

Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO”>

This rather heavy oil helps to thicken hair, making it strong from the inside out. It’s been known to increase blood flow to the scalp sending nutrients to hair follicles which, in turn, boosts hair growth. The smell isn’t the greatest so I like to put in a few drops of peppermint and tea tree essential oils. Not only do they help make the scent of the JBCO a little more bearable but they are both great for scalp health.

JBCO, an unrefined form of regular castor oil, can be used directly on the scalp but is also fabulous as a sealant, especially in the cooler months.

Coconut Oil

Penetrates the hair follicle, contains Vitamin E and helps strengthen the hair by building protein. For me, coconut oil has been really effective for finger detangling while pre-pooing and it also gives the hair a great shine. As it gets cooler, depending on where you store it, your coconut oil will begin to solidify. Scoop a little bit out with your finger and rub it between your palms to warm it up for easy application. Virgin coconut oil usually has a pretty long shelf life (over a year”> but, in any case, take note of the expiration date on the jar.

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Affectionately known as EVOO in the natural hair world, this natural emollient also penetrates the hair shaft and promotes scalp health, fighting off fungi and bacteria. It’s full of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, helps prevent hair loss and retains the moisture in your hair. I like using EVOO alone or mixed with commercial hair masques for deep conditioning. Adding some scalp-stimulating essential oils like rosemary, peppermint or tea tree to your EVOO makes for a good scalp massage oil or hot oil treatment.

Avocado Oil

This one has been known to “heal” dry, brittle strands and easily penetrates the hair and scalp. It’s high in monounsaturated fatty acid and contains high levels of antioxidant Vitamin E, both of which prove to be super beneficial for overall hair and scalp health. Being a bit heavier than grapeseed oil, I like to swap one for the other when it gets cooler, using avocado oil as my heat protectant of choice for blow-outs. You can also mix avocado oil with conditioners to add some more slip.

Shea Butter

Whipped or not, this is probably my favorite of all! A natural fat extracted from the Karite tree of West Africa, shea butter is widely used for its conditioning properties, helping to lock (or seal”> in moisture which fights against breakage and split ends. It protects against harsh weather conditions and is rich in Vitamins A and E which assist in soothing a dry, irritated scalp. I like to use shea butter immediately after applying a leave-in to my freshly washed (and still fairly damp”> hair. My strands are always super soft without being overly greasy.

Well, those are some of the products I’ll be keeping in rotation this season, what about you?! Tell me, what are YOUR favorite oils and butters to use as the weather gets cooler?

This post was written by Luvtobnatural for CurlyNikki.

Do Protective Styles Really Make Your Hair Grow Longer?
Photo by mapodile — Getty Images
There has been a long standing myth among the natural hair community that the only way to grow long healthy hair is to use protective hairstyles. For those new to the natural hair community, protective styling involves putting your hair into a style that involves tucking your ends away from the atmosphere to protect them from damage whilst your hair grows. The premise is that if the ends of your hair don’t break and your hair continues to grow, then you will achieve longer hair.

This myth is so deeply entrenched in the natural hair community that women will often do back to back protective styles for upwards of a year to reach their hair goals. Now don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of women who have achieved amazing lengths from protective styling, but there are a few women who never yield results from all their efforts.

Problems caused by too much protective styling:

  • Tangling from hair being untouched for long periods of time. This especially occurs in styles that take so long to put in that the mere thought of taking them down after only a few days seems like a waste. Thus, those women decide to leave in those styles for weeks.
  • Dryness from hair that is left untouched and uncared for for too long
  • Breakage from over manipulating the hair to create elaborate hairstyles

So how do I make my hair grow, then? 

Contrary to popular belief, protective styling is not necessary for speedy hair growth. Instead low manipulation styles are key. 

Low manipulation styles, unlike protective hairstyles, do not require that your hair and ends be tucked away for protection. Instead it works on the premise that if you do simple styles and manipulate your hair as little as possible, then you will not do unnecessary damage to your hair and will retain length.

Benefits of Low Manipulation Styles 

  • THEY ARE EASIER TO INSTALL. Styles like wash-and-gos and twist/ braid outs are far less taxing on the hair than installing mini twists, extension braids etc. By manipulating the hair less for styling, you minimize the damage to your hair. Before installing a protective style, think about whether the manipulation to install it will cause more damage to your hair than if you just styled it regularly and if its purpose is defeated.
  • IT IS EASIER TO MAINTAIN THE HAIR. The problem with a lot of protective hairstyles is that once installed, women tend to forget that they still have to maintain the hair, especially when it is hidden under wigs or entwined in braids. Also, if the hair is hard to get at, or moisturizing it will ruin the style, many women will opt for style over healthy hair. Low manipulation styles, however, usually do not require that the hair be bound in intricate styles making the hair easier to access.
  • THEY ARE MORE FLEXIBLE. The main gripe with protective styles is that the can become boring after a while. Having your hair in a style for weeks at a time can be a major problem for many of us curlies as most of us suffer from serious cases of hand in hair syndrome. Low manipulation styles however, give curlies the opportunity to vary their styles and avoid becoming bored. 

2 Low manipulation styles to try:

Wash-and-gos

This style can be done several ways, but the most basic way to accomplish this style is to wash and condition your hair and detangle it thoroughly before styling. Once done, a moisturizing conditioner or leave-in or moisturizer can be used depending on your preference. A styler or gel can be layered on top for added hold if necessary. To ensure that you keep your hair healthy while it is styled, make sure you moisturize your hair as much as it needs it.

Twist/Braid outs
This style can be done on freshly cleansed hair or dry hair that has been stretched for added length and volume. After moisturizing, apply your styler of choice and separate your hair into sections and twist or braid it. For added interest, you could put the ends of your hair or the entire length itself on rollers. Once your hair is completely dry, or after some time has passed, unravel and separate the twists gently to hide the parts and increase the volume. The best part about these styles is that you do not need to rewet your hair to restyle. To make the hair pliable enough to detangle, you can either spray it with water or add a good detangling product, then add a styler if necessary and restyle. Also, to maintain your hair’s health, make sure you moisturize and seal your hair, especially at the ends.

Don’t be discouraged

I know this information may seem confusing and contradictory, especially since this article seems to suggest that all hairstyles are created equally, but if it’s been said once it’s been said many times: you have to do what’s best for your hair.

This article merely covers suggestions for an alternative way to maintain your hair’s health if traditional protective styling does not work. Also, please note that a hairstyle itself will not guarantee your hair’s health. It must also be done in conjunction with good hair care practices, plenty of moisturizing, a standing appointment for good deep conditioning, reduced usage of combs and brushes and minimizing the number of times you style your hair.

As always, I wish you love, peace and curly haired bliss.

This article was written by NaturallyChelsea and published on CurlyNikki.

What do you think? Are protective styles overrated?

Hair Porosity: What You Need to Know

Hair porosity is a huge topic when it comes to natural hair. You may know that it deals with your hair’s ability to absorb moisture, but there’s a lot more to it than that. The science of hair can get deep real quick, so many naturals choose to focus on the look and feel of their hair rather than the nitty-gritty details of such topics as porosity.

But a basic understanding of porosity and natural hair is all you really need in order to determine whether or not it really matters, so let’s break it down:

Before we get into porosity, we must understand the actual hair strand. Each strand of hair consists of an outside layer called the cuticle, and it consists of up to 8 layers. These layers help fortify your hair but must be carefully maintained and protected to avoid damage from heat, coloring, and over-manipulation. Damage to the hair cuticle is irreversible and should therefore be avoided at all costs. You’ve probably seen damaged, see-through hair before when you needed a trim. This is a result of cuticle layers that have been worn down and cannot be reformed.

When a liquid substance comes in contact with your hair, the cuticle opens allowing it to pass through. How porous your hair is determines how much of that substance will go into the hair shaft and how quickly it penetrates. (MoKnowsHair”>.

What is hair porosity?

Porosity is defined as “the hair’s ability or inability to absorb and hold in water or any other penetrating molecules” (Green Beauty Channel”>. There are three levels of hair porosity: low, medium, and high. Healthy hair has multiple cuticle layers and low to medium porosity. Each level of porosity comes with its own advantages and challenges, so knowing them and their characteristics plus your own hair’s porosity will only aid your healthy hair journey.

Low

Low-porosity hair tends to be the driest of the three types. This is because its tightly packed cuticle makes it difficult for liquids to enter or remain in the hair strand. Many Type 4 naturals have low porosity that lacks elasticity.

If you have low porosity hair, here’s what you can do:

  • Use shampoos and conditioners that are rich in moisture and emollients
  • Always deep condition using heat for 15-30 minutes at least once a week
  • Use water-based leave-in conditioners with humectants like vegetable glycerin, honey, and aloe vera juice
  • Incorporate coconut and olive oils into your regimen- they are great moisturizers that can penetrate the hair shaft
Medium

Medium-porosity hair is the best level to have. The hair cuticle isn’t densely packed. The hair is healthy, bouncy, and resilient.

To maintain medium-porosity hair, here’s what you can do:

  • Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners
  • Use thicker water-based leave-in conditioners
  • Moisturize the hair using vegetable glycerin, aloe vera juice, and water
  • Incorporate coconut, olive, and jojoba oils into your regimen
High-porosity hair

High porosity hair often has broken or missing cuticle layers and/or holes in cuticle layers that have been broken down by excessive damage. This could be due to the use of heat, color, or over-manipulation.

Here’s how to deal:

  • Use a moisturizing shampoo and a moisturizing conditioner that has hydrolyzed protein, which can be absorbed by the hair strand
  • Use a protein deep conditioner biweekly. (It will help close up the gaps in your hair’s cuticles”>.
  • Use thicker water-based leave-in conditioner & moisturize the hair using vegetable glycerin, aloe vera juice, and water
  • Incorporate coconut, olive, and jojoba oils into your regimen

Does porosity really matter?

Knowing your hair’s porosity can only aid your hair journey, not hinder it, however, not knowing your hair’s porosity isn’t necessarily a problem. As I mentioned before, many naturals pay close attention to the health of their hair, avoiding damaging practices and keeping a consistent routine, and get along fine.

For more information about how to maintain your low, medium, or high porosity hair, check out the last video of this super-informative porosity series from Green Beauty Channel:

This article was written by Kanisha of BlackNaps.org and published on CurlyNikki.

Glycerin: The Ultimate Love-Hate Relationship with Natural Hair
Photo Courtesy of Textured Talk
Before now using glycerin for natural hair had always been a tricky topic for me. I sort of understood the purpose of the ingredient in hair products but I was still lost on the whole weather, dew point aspect. Like many, I saw other popular bloggers and vloggers using glycerin for natural hair, creating DIY recipes so I figured why not. Glycerin is also listed in about every product I own so I figured the ingredient…couldn’t hurt right? 

The good news is ever since I started blogging I’ve become way more informed about the science behind growing and maintaining healthy natural hair and my research game is on another level. (Yay me!”> Instead of just taking someone else’s word, I now seek out additional information to form my judgement. Now I know everyone doesn’t have time for that, which is why you are here so let’s dive right in! And if you were completely lost after reading the first paragraph then definitely keep reading.

What is glycerin? (the scientific breakdown”>

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a thick, odorless clear liquid derived naturally from plant oils such as palm, soy or coconut oil or synthetically from petroleum. Chemically, glycerin is a water-soluble conditioning sugar alcohol with 3 hydrogen bonding properties, making the substance great as a moisturizer in other products besides just hair care. Glycerin is commonly used in the creation of soaps, toiletries, drugs, and some beverages as a sweetener and preservative. Trust me the list goes on and on. 

How does glycerin work?

Without inundating you with too much scientific lingo glycerin at the core is a type of humectant, which means it attracts moisture to itself. The hydrogen bonding properties of humectants attract water from the atmosphere bringing moisture to the hair and ultimately improves moisture retention for the hair. As a result, glycerin and other humectants are widely popular in products that promote ridding yourself of dry, thirsty hair. Glycerin is also used as a thickening agent in many products to create the nice fully texture I absolutely love.

Glycerin, humidity, and your hair

While glycerin has an immense ability to attract moisture to the hair it also has the reverse effect. Everything is about balance. On extremely humid days too much moisture can be attracted to your hair causing the hair to swell and frizz. However, on low humidity days (cold, dry days”> where the surrounding air is more dry than your hair, the opposite occurs. Moisture is drawn from the hair back into the air to balance the moisture in the atmosphere.

Think of it this way…it’s not about you at all but, the balance of moisture in the atmosphere.

Hopefully that makes sense. If not, let’s run it back again. On high humidity days moisture from the air is drawn to other things for balance and on low humidity days moisture is drawn from things back into the air for balance.

How do you know if the humidity is high or low outside? Most weather apps will plain out list the humidity % or the dew point. The higher the dew point, the more moisture is in the air.

So what’s the big deal about glycerin and natural hair?

The big deal is ingredients matter. Your environment matters. And your specific hair needs and texture matter. If you have extremely dry hair glycerin can be your best friend, when used correctly. Too much glycerin if not correctly diluted can leave the hair feeling sticky due to the thick viscosity of the ingredient. Luckily products containing glycerin have already done the hard part for you mixing all the great ingredients together. However, pay special attention to the order of how ingredients are listed. Companies label ingredients based on order of dominance, meaning the first ingredient is more prevalent in the product, then the second and so forth. Depending on what my hair needs, the climate outside, and the style I want to achieve I know whether or not I need to use a product that contains a lot of glycerin or just a little.

For example, last week I twisted my hair with Cantu Coconut Curling Cream where glycerin is the second ingredient listed. Not only did my hair not dry all the way, but the next morning was a rainy, warm spring day filled with lots of humidity. My hair frizzed before I even made it from the parking lot to my office. In retrospect, I should have probably used more of a twisting butter, for example Karen’s Body Beautiful Super Duper Hydrating Cream where vegetable glycerin is the second to last ingredient. Both great products but serve two purposes for me depending on the day.

How to create a DIY glycerin curl refresher spray:

As mentioned above, many women create their own glycerin mix to refresh curls or the hair daily. Here’s a quick recipe I’ve tried before as well mixing in a spray bottle. Feel free to play around with the ingredients to get the right concoction for your texture but just remember to always dilute glycerin with water.

  • 1/2 cup of distilled water
  • 1/2 cup of rosewater
  • 2 teaspoons of vegetable glycerin
  • 1 teaspoon of olive oil

This article was written by Charlene Walton of Textured Talk and published on CurlyNikki.

Why Your Natural Hair is Damaged
Photo by Annebaek — Getty Images
Damage is a barrier that will prevent you from seeing hair growth. Your hair is actually growing all the time, but with damage in the way, your hair is breaking off at the same rate it is growing, which is why there will appear to be no growth progress.

You have to slow down the rate at which you damage your hair. Reduce is the word of choice used because it is impossible to eliminate all damage. Your hair is damaged to some degree every time you wash it, detangle it, and even touch it.We will concern ourselves with the 4 types of damage that can occur and how to prevent these sources of damage altogether:

Manipulation of the hair 

The more you comb, style, or touch your hair you are causing damage to it. If you have particularly fragile hair, like 4b or 4c hair, this type of damage is easy to come by. Even if you are chemical free and you do have a good moisture routine, damage from manipulation will get in your way. To resolve this issue you have to be gentle with your hair. You might be thinking to yourself, well I am gentle! Well, if you are experiencing breakage you are not being gentle enough. As stated before you want to reduce the amount of damage that you experience, because you cannot eliminate it completely. You still have to wash your hair, you still have to style it, and detangle it. The key is to cut down on the manipulation of your hair. How much manipulation is reduced will all vary from person to person. 

For particularly fragile hair types you will want to keep your hair in protective and low manipulation hairstyles 80% -90% of the time and instead of detangling with combs or brushes you may want to try finger combing instead. During the length retention phase where you are trying to gain length, maintaining styles for 2 to 3 weeks at a time will help you to hold on to the hair that would have normally broken off had you worn a style that requires daily styling. However for some naturals this is not practical, wearing styles for 2 to 3 weeks at a time may simply be unnecessary. Only you can determine this.

Nevertheless, even for naturals with looser curls and more resilient strands protective styles help to protect hair from damage.

Hair dryness 

Dryness of the hair will lead to hair breakage and split ends which ultimately prevent hair growth. You have to have a good moisture routine if your goal is to have longer hair. One problem is many people do not know how to effectively moisturize their hair. Let’s first start with defining what a moisturizer actually is! A moisturizer is a water based solution. Which means oils, greases, and butters are not moisturizers, they are sealants, so in other words they help to keep moisture in your hair but they are not moisturizers. So every time you set out to moisturize your hair, you should lightly be misting with water or a water based product first, then sealing in that moisture with an oil and or butter. When you moisturize you should moisturize all of your hair, but you want to pay close attention to the ends of your hair because they get particularly dry and they are the oldest and most delicate part of your hair. This will also help to prevent your split ends from getting too severe. You may need to moisturize each day, every other day, or even once a week. This is all specific to your hair. You will know what works for you by the look and feel of your hair.

Heat damage 

While heat is a useful tool for giving us gorgeous stretched out styles, it is also good for sucking the moisture out of hair. Does this mean you can never use heat? No it does not, but if you want healthy hair you should cut down your usage of heat down to the bare minimum. When you frequently use heat, you will also find that you will have to trim your hair more often, which again results in lack of hair growth progress. You also have to keep in mind that you may not have a consistency in style if you continuously heat style your hair. High heat will cause permanent straightening of hair strands for some naturals. If you are transitioning this is why you should avoid flat irons and hot combs altogether until you are fully natural. You wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between relaxed hair and the hair that has been permanently straightened from heat damage. If you must have heat in your regimen do not use it more than every 2 to 3 weeks. Try to stretch out the time you use heat as long as you can! I encourage you to try going 6 months without using heat styling tools in your hair. You will see a big improvement in your hair’s health. There a other methods for stretching hair such as braids, twists, and banding, if you want stretched out hair.

Chemical damage

Relaxers, texturizers, and hair dyes will all cause some form of damage to the hair, because of the drastic changes that it does to the hair’s structure. If you are a transitioner, you will notice that your relaxer may even be breaking off on it’s own. This is most likely due to the differences in the two hair textures that you have on your head, (the curls and bends represent weak points”> and your ends are weathered from time while also being weakened from the relaxer. During your transitioning stage, you will want to practice all of the above: protective styles, no heat, and moisture. As time goes on you will slowly trim away your relaxed or texturized ends. Hair dye, especially if you are going to a lighter shade is drying to the hair. Which is why if you decide to permanently color your hair you will have to be strict with your moisturizing and conditioning routine. Otherwise, your hair will become dry and ultimately break.

What to Expect 

Remember you have to be consistent with good hair care practices. You cannot use heat daily, constantly manipulate your hair, and then expect for it to grow just because you slapped some moisturizer on your strands. Give your hair a few months or so of using good hair care in order to see significantly healthier hair and growth. Progress will not happen over night.

This article was written by BlackNaps.org and published on CurlyNikki.

9 Steps to a Perm Rod Set that Lasts 5 Days
Photo Courtesy of Charlene Walton

Installing perm rods is by far one of my favorite styles for my natural hair. For starters, the style can last up to five days which cuts down on how often you have to manipulate your hair. Secondly, I haven’t met a woman who doesn’t look fabulous with a head full of curls! So how can you achieve a perfect perm rod set on natural hair every single time? Keep reading…there are 9 easy steps you must live by.

1. Always start on freshly washed and conditioned hair

Products respond well to clean hair and removing additional buildup will allow you to also achieve bouncy, voluminous curls once you have taken the perm rods out at the end. You can also opt to use a cleansing co-wash product if you do not need a full shampoo session. Starting a perm rod set on natural hair that is soaking wet will also allow you to have a great foundation for the curls to set.

2. Pick styling products wisely

Once your hair is clean and conditioned next up are the styling products. My choice is to use a setting lotion for slight hold, a cream based product for moisture and softness and a little bit of oil to seal the moisture. Each product plays a different role in the process, but it’s totally up to you which products you want to use.

3. Apply products effectively

Work your way through your hair with products section by section. Don’t try to apply the products all over at once. Navigating your hair section by section will allow you to ensure all product are evenly distributed throughout. For this style I’m using all the Creme of Nature for Natural Hair Argan Oil products because they have a leave in hair milk and foaming setting lotion that works well together. In total, I used the Creme of Nature Argan Oil Shine Foaming Mousse, the Creme of Nature Leave-In Butter Milk (actually used this as my leave in conditioner”>, and the Creme of Nature Butterlicious Hydrating Curl Creme. You can easily find these products at your nearest Sally’s. 

4. Take it slow and go small

Use small sections for each perm rod set. Small sections will allow you to twirl your hair around the rod more effectively and help to ensure each section of hair is smooth along the rod. My rule of thumb is about an inch wide for each section. This also will help with your drying time later. For this installation I twisted the hair a few times at the root, then twirled the hair around the rod.

5. Focus on the ends

Use extra products on the end of each perm rod section where your hair stops. The ends are the most important part. You want to make sure the hair doesn’t unravel so an extra pump of foaming lotion or dab of cream right here goes a long way.

6. Allow ample time to dry

I can not stress this enough. Be aware of your schedule before installing perm rods to ensure you have plenty of time to allow your hair to dry. This WILL determine the success of your perm rod set. Hair that is still slightly damp will become frizzy as you unravel and the style will not last as long.

Here are a few drying options…

  • Drying overnight: If you choose this option I like to sit under the dryer for at least 30 minutes to set the hair, then sleep in the perm rods overnight to ensure they are dry by the morning
  • Hooded dryer: Typical time for my hair to become 100% dry while sitting under the dryer is 2 hours. So cozy up with a good book and get comfortable!

7. Test the waters before you separate and unravel completely

Remove hair from each perm rod first, before separating the curls. After you’ve removed each rod, search for areas where your hair could still be a little damp. If your hair is still a little wet, you can continue to dry while the hair still has the form of the curl for a few more minutes. Once you are 100% dry it’s time to separate. 

8. Separate Strategically

Once the hair is completely dry, separate with a light oil of your choice. If you love big hair, you might choose to separate 3 times for each section. If you want the style to last up to 5 days, I suggest separating 1-2 times and naturally allow the curls to separate further as the days pass.

9. Fluff, style and slay!

Fluff your roots with a pick, style to your liking and slay!

This article was written by Charlene Walton of Textured Talk and published on CurlyNikki.

Make Your Own Citrus and Chamomile Shampoo
Photo by linda_k — Getty Images

Soap nuts are a great cleansing fruit. The fruit pulp creates suds that result in gentle, effective cleansing, body and shine!  This is a great cleansing recipe for those with skin sensitivity and scalp issues such as psoriasis, dermatitis and eczema. Check it out!

Supplies

  • Mesh strainer 
  • A pot 
  • 1 muslin bag 
  • 1 dye applicator bottle 
  • 1-2 ice trays  

Ingredients

  • 6 seedless soap nuts 
  • 4 cups of distilled water 
  • 1 peel of a whole lemon or lime 
  • 1 tablespoon of horsetail 
  • 2 tablespoons of chamomile 
  • 1 tablespoon of coconut nectar *great vegan humectant 

Steps

  1. Add the following to a muslin bag: soap nuts, citrus fruit peel, chamomile, horsetail
  2. Put the bag in a pot of distilled water. Bring it to a boil. 
  3. Reduce the heat and let it simmer for approx 30 minutes. *Do not cover. It can boil over due to bubbles. 
  4. Turn off heat, let it cool and strain well.
  5. Stir in coconut nectar and it’s ready for use. 

Use

  1. Pour 2-4 oz into a dye applicator bottle. 
  2. Apply directly to scalp. Massage well for a few minutes. Rinse well.
  3. Follow up with a rinse out conditioner and the rest of your regimen. 

Store for next time

  1. Pour the remaining sudsy infused water in an ice cube tray. 
  2. Freeze and store in freezer bags. 
  3. When ready to cleanse your hair just get a few cubes out, let them thaw and use as normal. 

Give it a try and share your experience in the comment section.

Enjoy!  

Disclaimer: I am not a doctor. Be sure you do not have an allergy to any of the ingredients. It is always suggested to do a test patch prior to full use of any new product. If you have questions or concerns consult a physician.

This article was written by Emilia Obiekea of Adorebotanicals.com and published on CurlyNikki.

You Need These 4 Things to Transition
Photo by alvarez — Getty Images

I transitioned from 2009-2011. I can say that transitioning was very hard for me. At the time, I had no idea how to do my hair at all. The two textures were like night and day, and I was frustrated with my tresses. While transitioning, I chose to visit my hair stylist every two weeks to have her take care of my hair simply because I didn’t know what to do with it. At that time I wore my hair mostly straight. I continued visit my stylist and she cut the relaxed ends little by little. I continued this until one day I just couldn’t take it anymore and I let her know that I was ready to cut the rest of my relaxed ends. I had become confident enough that my hair was at a length I could work with.

Make sure you are choosing the right styles for your hair

One of the biggest challenges for transitioners is which hairstyles to try. The best hairstyles to try are Twist and Curls, Braid and Curls and rod sets (flexi rod and perm rods”>– they help hide the two textures and are easy to manage. You should try to experiment with different styles that work best for you. There are a TON of YouTube videos on how to do your hair in just about every style you ever thought of.

Set realistic expectations

Don’t expect to have hair like CurlyNikki, MahagonyCurls, or that girl on YouTube. Your hair is yours and differs from those women. Take time to learn your hair and what it likes and doesn’t like. It will take time for your hair to achieve the length and looks you desire. It’s a trial and error process. You will have to play around with different styles in order to figure out what works for your hair. If you don’t have realistic expectations you will be upset every time.

Take your time with your tresses

Good hair care is the best hair care. Make sure that you are moisturizing and deep conditioning your tresses. Don’t be overly rough when detangling your hair. Try to finger detangle most of the time (if you can”>. Pay most attention to the invisible line where your natural hair and relaxed ends meet, because you can have major breakage at this point. Too much heat styling can be bad (just a FYI”>, but the damaged can be minimized if it’s done right.

Be Patient

I know that you are like, ‘ugh my hair is so not growing’, but actually it is. It can be very frustrating to try to deal with two different textures, but you can stick it out.  If you’re really serious about this process of transitioning, some patience will be required. Remember you can always cut the relaxed ends off when you are ready. My advice is to do it on your time. Don’t feel rushed or pressured if you are not ready to say goodbye to your ends. You can also wear your hair in protective styles to help you through your transition (like Marley twists or box braids”>.  

Remember that patience is key, whether you BC or decide to transition, you have to be patient. I know it’s hard, but you can do it. Don’t give up!

Happy Transitioning!

This article was written by Michelle Thames of HappilyEverNatural and published on CurlyNikki.

So You Want to Go Natural. Now What?

When I first went natural over 5 years ago, not nearly as much information about going natural was available as there is now. Most of what I learned was through trial and error—lots of error. Truth be told, if I could do it all ever again, I’d change a lot of what I did. There are definitely some basics to going and being natural that would have helped me back then.

Here are five basic things every new natural should know that will definitely help you avoid hardship down the road. If you’re a seasoned natural, share these tips with someone just starting out. Or, share some of your own in the comments!

Protective styling is a method, not a way of life.

While protective styling (tucking your ends away in a style such as wigs, braids, twists, or buns to help retain length”> can certainly be beneficial to natural hair, it can easily become harmful for a couple of reasons. For one, if you over-protective style, especially with extensions, your hair can become extremely dry, which could potentially worsen the state of your hair.

Secondly, if you protective style too often, you’ll never really get to know your hair because it’s always tucked away. So when you do choose to wear your hair in a natural style such as a wash and go or twist out, you won’t know what works for your hair and it might result in an epic fail. Your hair needs to “breathe” in between protective styles. And whenever you remove a style, you should always do a deep treatment to replenish the moisture your hair hasn’t been able to receive while put away.

Natural hair isn’t “one size fits all.”

I say this a lot because I even have to remind myself of this sometimes. Just because another natural’s hair looks or seems like yours, doesn’t mean your hair will respond the same as theirs to a certain style or product. Some naturals can get away with using heat and/or color often and without damage while others can cause heat damage with just one pass.

The key is to get to know your hair, what works best for your texture, and what’s going to be the most convenient method for your lifestyle, which can change overtime. Be open to tweaking your method and your products until you discover what your hair responds well to.

The health of your hair is your responsibility

So do your research. I’m constantly researching and learning about natural hair- not just for the sake of writing about it, but because I want to know the best ways to keep my hair at its optimum health. If you engage in poor hair habits such as excessive heat styling/coloring, over-manipulation, or neglecting your hair by not moisturizing, properly detangling, and deep conditioning the hair, then you shouldn’t be surprised when you have to get it cut or find that it stays around the same length.

If your goal is to grow longer hair or even to just maintain healthy hair, it will require effort but it will also be well worth the effort when you achieve your hair goals. For me, the best part about going natural was learning that I could grow my hair longer and healthier than it had ever been when I was going to stylists regularly, all because I made the health of my hair my business and therefore starting treating it with extreme care.

A word on major hair decisions…

… such as a drastic cut or color job. Some will tell you, “go for it!” while others will say, “take some time and think about it first” but really, that completely depends on your personality. Many Type 4 naturals have colored their hair on a whim or even after having pondered the decision for some time and still regretted it. Others have been completely happy with their decision, even it means having to nurse their hair back to health later. And others find that their hair prospers after a major cut or remains healthy after coloring.

Whatever you do, always take a page from tip #3 and do your research. Know what you’re getting yourself into and find a stylist who comes highly recommended. You may not know how you’ll feel about it 6 months or a year later but you can an idea because you know yourself better than anyone.

Another thing to consider: what are your hair goals right now? If it’s health and length, will this major hair decision help or hinder that? If you just want to have some fun with your hair, is something permanent the answer? Ask yourself first. 

Enjoy your hair!

It really is just hair, after all, so don’t get so lost in all the do’s and don’ts that you end up disliking your hair. Your hair benefits most from you giving it TLC. Don’t be afraid to try new things and enjoy the journey!

This article was written by Kanisha of BlackNaps.org and published on CurlyNikki.

Share your tips for beginners below!

Try this Fragrant Anti-Itch Tea Rinse

There are tons of hair teas and rinses out there to try. Hibiscus + rooibos tea are one of my favorite combos. The red color is beautiful and the blend is beneficial.

Hibiscus comes in many different varieties. I tend to use the red hibiscus (easily available”>. It is great for slip because it releases a light amount of mucilage when used in hot infusions. This flower also aids in hair loss prevention, soothes the scalp, nourishes the hair, reduces frizz and leaves the hair with a healthy shine. 

Rooibos tea is a South African red tea. It is a great ingredient to incorporate in hair rinses for those that have dark or red hair (naturally or dyed”>. It is very calming to an irritated scalp, enriches hair color, stimulates the scalp, and contains a high amount of anti-oxidants and minerals such as copper.

This rinse can be used before or after deep conditioning. 

Ingredients

  • 3 cups of distilled water
  • 2 tablespoons of rooibos tea
  • 6-8 hibiscus flowers
  • 1 teaspoon rosemary or 1 drop of rosemary essential oil
  • 1 tablespoon of ACV (apple cider vinegar”>
  • 1 teaspoon of rose hips fruit

Directions

  1. Warm the distilled water and pour it over all of the herbs and florals.
  2. Cover and allow to steep until cool.
  3. Strain and discard the spent plant material.
  4. Add the ACV and *essential oil to the room temp infused water. Blend well.
  5. Pour it over the hair and massage the scalp well with the pads of your fingers. Be sure to have a bowl to catch the run off.
  6. Repeat the above setup several times.
  7. You can rinse it out with cool water or leave in on the hair and proceed to styling.

This is a very concentrated infusion for maximum benefit. If your hair is light in color, such as brown or blonde, avoid using this tea as it may cause staining of your strands. Give it a try and see how much you like it as well. Enjoy!

Caution: Avoid getting the rinse into the eyes.

This article was written by Emilia Obiekea of Adorebotanicals.com and published on CurlyNikki.

Multitasking While You Deep Condition
Photo by PeopleImages — Getty Images

We all know the glorious benefits of deep conditioning (hydrated, soft, elastic hair”>, but what do we do while deep conditioning? Well that depends on the length of time you plan to deep condition and how much moisture you need. Besides just sitting under a dryer on your phone playing games, there’s a lot of more productive things you could be doing with that time. As a college student, I know the value of every precious second of the day. No one wants to be confined to the dryer for possibly hours at a time. While the heat of a dryer does help, there are also options available that allow slightly more freedom, such as portable bonnet dryers, a hot towel, etc. Here are some ideas for what you can do:

Sleep

This is one of the most moisture-rich activity of all. Why? Because it takes the longest. The longer you spend with the conditioner in your hair the more it will soak into your hair. Some naturals practice this regularly, which is called the greenhouse method.

Laundry

Anybody else hate doing laundry? No? Just me? Well this is one time where I don’t mind. Because I’m not doing anything anyway, I feel more efficient when I actually get something done that I’ve been meaning to get around to. I don’t mind putting in three different loads because that’s just more moisture for my hair. Not only that, but this is one of those tasks that you can double down on. I can get my laundry done while I wait on my hair, and some third task while I wait on my laundry. It’s a win-win!

Read

Whether it’s assigned or for your leisure, what I enjoy about this is that I can actually do it under the dryer. Some of the tasks on this list rely heavily on the heat from your scalp and time. This, however, can be as long or as short as you please because the heat will help the conditioner settle into your strands much faster.

Homework/Studying

Again, another task I’m not very fond of. Hey, it needs to be done and what better time to do it? You can do this under the dryer if you have flash cards or an e-text reading. Otherwise you can sit down for some homework and wait it out. If you have a portable dryer like this one I bought from Amazon, you can still sit under the dryer even if you’re working on homework.

Shower

I do this one a lot. I’ll use a deep conditioner but I won’t really have time to let it sit. So, I’ll start my shower with washing my hair (up to the point of applying the deep conditioner”>. I then let the deep conditioner sit on my hair for the duration of my shower with a shower cap on. The steam from the shower should be sufficient in helping work the conditioner into your hair.

This article was written by Marchay Sledge of ChayNaturals.com and published on CurlyNikki.

Do you know of any other tasks that are great for deep conditioning? Comment and ask questions below.

5 Wash and Go Tutorials for 4b/4c Hair

Many people are under the impression that only the type 3 curly girls can do wash n go styles and achieve great definition. Lies. All lies. Just because your type 4 curls are tiny little coils that zig zag, you can still get super defined results from your wash n go. If you’re not sure what your hair type is, check out my Know Your Hair Type page. If you fall in the 4b/4c category, here are five wash n go tutorials that garnered super defined results. Each one featured different products and different hair lengths. This just goes to show that it’s not just about the product, but the technique.

LiveNaturallyLove

Just because your curls are small and springing, they can still be defined. See how in this tutorial for 4B 4C hair.

FloridaNatural83

Have a few different curl patterns and textures? No worries with this tutorial. This is effective for a variety of type 4 curls.

NaturalCurliesTV

As our hair grows, it has different needs. For those of you who have longer tresses, here’s a tutorial just for you.

SkinnyGotCurves

For the ladies with short hair or with a tapered cut, this wash n go routine is perfect for you.

NaturallyGlamTV

In this tutorial, you’ll see a helpful technique specifically to help define the kinkiest of curls and coils. It’s not always about the product – sometimes it’s about the technique. 

With these tutorials, you’ll be able to find what works best for your 4B/4C hair to achieve a super defined wash n go. For more information about achieving the best wash n go results read these articles:

Read moreTop 30 4b and 4c Vloggers to Follow

Have you tried any of the products or techniques used in these tutorials for defining your curls?

This article was written by Jonna of Black Naps and published on CurlyNikki.

The 5 Basic Types of Ingredients in Your Products
Photo Courtesy of Craving Yellow

Question

Kaja inquires…You often mention “active ingredients” – what are they and which are the “non-active” ingredients?

Answer

I love this question even though there is no simple, straightforward answer. While other cosmetic chemists may have their own definitions, I like to think that you can break all beauty product ingredients down into five basic categories:

5 Types of Cosmetic Ingredients

Active ingredients: They deliver the promise of the product.

Of course the type of activity varies widely. I guess the “truest” active ingredients are those specified as drugs by the appropriate governing body. So UV absorbers in sunscreens, benzoyl peroxide in anti-acne creams, and fluoride in toothpaste are all REALLY active.

But even the surfactants used in a shampoo or body wash are active by my definition – they are responsible for getting your hair or skin clean which is the basic promise of the product. The same thing goes for the silicones in a hair conditioner, the colorants in a mascara, or the polymers in a hairspray. If the ingredient is essential to making the product work, then it is “active.”

Base ingredients: They form the delivery vehicle for the active ingredients.

Active ingredients are rarely used by themselves in a 100% concentrated form. There’s usually an optimal use level for ingredients to ensure they do their job. Therefore the actives have to be “diluted” with something. That something may be as simple as water or as complex as a cream or lotion base or an aerosol spray. It may take dozens of ingredients to form the “base” of the product. Solvents, like water and alcohol, and emulsifiers, to help oils and water mix together, are among the most common types of base ingredients.

Control ingredients: they ensure the product stays within acceptable parameters.

Gums and polymers are used to stabilize emulsions, acids and bases are used to balance pH, polyols are used to maintain texture after freezing, and  preservatives are used to protect against microbial contamination. These are just a few examples of control agents that help maintain the quality of the product.

Aesthetic agents: they improve the product’s sensory characteristics.

The look and smell are important parts of almost every cosmetic product which is why you’ll see colorants and fragrance used so frequently. You might even see “glitter” particles added.

Featured ingredients: they are added to increase consumer appeal.

These ingredients are also called pixie dust, fairy dust, marketing ingredients and a few other names.  These are truly “inactive” because they’re added ONLY because they look good as part of the label. They serve no function other than to attract consumer’s attention. These ingredients include botanicals, vitamins and minerals, (some”> proteins and just about anything else “natural.” You can easily spot these ingredients because they are often incorporated into the product name (Sun-kissed Raspberry Shampoo”> or placed on the front label (lotion with jojoba oil”>.

This article was written by The Beauty Brains and published on CurlyNikki.

Longer Hair… More Problems?
Photo by m-imagephotography — Getty Images

At the beginning of my natural hair care journey, I was envisioning what my natural hair would look like once it began to grow out. I began thinking about all of the naturals I had seen with long, thick, and healthy hair. Not to mention, I was more than giddy about the boundless styling options that were available for the looks I wanted to achieve. However, I didn’t understand that having longer natural hair came with a whole new set of challenges. Below are the things I have discovered while having long natural hair:

Tangles are terrible

My tangles make Charlotte’s Web look simple. On top of that, I have been getting more single strand knots than ever! I can easily spend upwards of 2 hours detangling, if I am really trying to avoid breakage and be gentle. However, when it concerns tangles it is much wiser to prevent them from occurring. Protective styles, washing hair in sections, and co-washing are all effective methods for reducing the amount of tangles you get.

You will get more hair fall

At some point in a natural women’s journey, her hair goes through less than stellar moments. This could be attributed to diet, improper haircare, illness, stress, or hormones. However, another plausible explanation is hair growth. The more my hair grows, the more strands I am seeing on wash day. Now don’t get me wrong, if you know your hair fall has to do with any of the controllable factors mentioned above then make the change. On the other hand, if it doesn’t then just chalk up your increased hair fall to having more strands. 

You will want simplicity

You will realize that having longer and denser hair means spending more time on it. This will compel you to cut coroners where you can, and to find simplicity among a mane of complexity. I have found that deep conditioning is great but so is co-washing. When you co-wash it serves as both a cleanser and conditioner so you kill two birds with one stone. I still love shampooing my scalp once a month but co-washing keeps my hair soft and pliable. The more pliable our hair is, the less we have to worry about breakage.

You will choose easy protective styles

Yes, I know I sound contradictory right about now. At the beginning of this article, I was talking about how having longer hair provides you with more styling options. On the other hand, it’s simply not practical for many naturals to sport an elaborate style daily. Instead, you will find that French braids, Chunky Twistouts, and Braid Out’s will be your ally. Give yourself grace and save the elaborate styles for special occasions.

Your routine may change

You may find that the techniques and products that worked for your hair at the beginning of your journey are no longer as beneficial as they use to be. One of the newest practices I have incorporated into my routine is washing my hair in sections. In the past, I remember thinking that naturals who did that were doin the most! However, washing in sections helps prevent tangles and is a surprisingly good way to access the scalp.

Going natural is such an interesting and complex process. I call it a process because you are constantly evolving and changing. Just like with anything else in life, you have stages. The process of being natural is no different. Take things in stride and remember to grow, grow, and grow!

This article was written by Keora Bernard and published on CurlyNikki.

How to Actually Keep Your Natural Hair Moisturized
Photo Courtesy of Charlene Walton
Besides hair growth, moisture is by far the number one area women struggle with in terms of their natural hair.  If you are a new natural or in the process of transitioning, this may come as a shock to you but, it is OK to moisturize your hair every day.  This does not mean shampooing and conditioning every day but, pure and simple moisture.  Moisturized hair will lead to less breakage, greater lengthen retention, easier manageability, softer hair and so forth. The confusion comes into play when women THINK they are moisturizing their hair but, the hair is still dry and brittle. The common thing I hear is “I put tons of coconut oil in my hair so it’s moisturized.” Unfortunately, that will only lead to a head full of oily hair and clogged pores.  If you constantly put coconut oil on your hair only to discover your scalp is itchy and the hair is brittle, there is no hydration in your regimen.   Remember: oils do not moisturize.  If you want to achieve moisturized natural hair here are 7 things you must start doing TODAY. Increase Moisturizing Frequency (Morning, noon & night”> 

Moisturizing your hair once is the morning may not be enough. Curly hair is naturally prone to be drier than other textures because the sebum has to work 3 times as hard to get from our root to ends due to all the curves along the strand.   Use a daily moisturizing lotion in the morning and gently mist your hair with water at night.  If your hair also feels dry by mid-day, using a refresher spray like the Obia Natural Hair Curl Hydration Spray as well.  The main take-away is moisturizing once or twice a week isn’t going to do the trick.  You must moisturize daily and even multiple times a day if needed.

Change Your Deep Conditioning Regimen

Deep conditioning is another option where changing the frequency is possibly needed.  Hair that is extremely dry and breaking should start on a weekly moisturizing deep conditioning regimen.  Moisturizing deep conditioners like TGIN Honey Miracle Mask Deep Conditioner, which is void of protein, will help boost moisture levels and reduce shedding. If you want a pure moisturizing deep conditioner without protein make sure to read the label to confirm.

Don’t Confuse A Moisturizer With A Styler

Another common mistake several new naturals make is confusing a styling product with a moisturizer. While there are a few products that work as double duty action, products like gels, curling custards, foaming lotions and mousses should not act as your daily moisturizing product. Stylers are mainly formulated for hold and definition first. A moisturizing product should still be used in conjunction with these items as you will see in most product lines. Use products where water is the first ingredient on the label such as hair lotions and hair milks for daily moisture and stylers to define your curls.

Understand How Glycerin Works

Glycerin is a common ingredient found in tons of products and when used correctly, glycerin can also be amazing for your hair. But, you must understand how glycerin works first. At the core, glycerin is a type of humectant, which means it attracts moisture to itself and your hair when it is found in your products. The hydrogen bonding properties of humectants attract water from the atmosphere bringing moisture to the hair and ultimately improves moisture retention. On extremely humid days too much moisture can be attracted to your hair causing the hair to swell and frizz. However, on low humidity days (cold, dry days”> where the surrounding air is more dry than your hair, the opposite occurs. Moisture is drawn from the hair back into the air to balance the moisture in the atmosphere. Did you catch all that? If not,read more About Glycerin and Natural Hair.

Seal Moisture for YOUR Hair Type

Another key to obtaining moisturized natural hair is ensuring you are sealing moisture for YOUR hair type. I underlined “your” for a reason. Using the L.O.C method is great but this is pointless if your leave-in conditioner, oil and cream do not work for your texture. Every curl type and texture is different. What works for one woman or blogger may not work for you. Ingredients my fine, 4a-4b hair texture enjoys are shea butter creams like the Alikay Naturals Moisture Rich Parfait, thick and creamy leave in conditioners with aloe vera, and avocado oil. My hair remains moisturized up to 3 days with just leave in conditioner and shea butter…very simple and easy to manage. And because coconut oil doesn’t work for everyone also read 7 Amazing Oils for Natural Hair Besides Coconut Oil .

Cleanse Hair & Scalp More

Clean hair is another way to achieve more moisturized natural hair. Why? Because cleansing the hair and scalp on a regular basis will ensure product build up is removed which, in return enables your products to work better and allows moisturizing products to actually penetrate the hair and scalp. If you co-wash often product build up will happen and a clarifying shampoo is suggested for use at least monthly. Shampooing your hair every 5-7 days will remove build up, sweat and environmental elements.

Drink More Water

Of course this one is a no-brainer but as you’ve probably heard before, healthy hair starts from the inside. If your body is de-hydrated your skin and hair will follow. How ever you choose to take care of your skin, think of some of the same characteristics for your scalp. The common rule of thumb for daily water intake is half your body weight. For example, I am 160 lbs, therefore; I would drink 80 oz, or about 5 bottles of water per day.   

What ways do you keep your hair moisturized? Comment and let me know! 


This article was written by Charlene Walton and published on CurlyNikki.