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CurlyNikki: How Do I Get the Perfect Bun?

Dear CurlyNikki: What technique and products do you use to achieve the perfect bun? Please help me with the following items:

  • Wet or dry hair
  • Tools used
  • Accessories to secure (if any”>
  • Products
  • Finished Result (low, high, side, centered, etc.”>
  • Secrets for ‘slick’ edges (if that’s what you like”>

Dear Exhale 1913: It’s been a while since I last wet bunned, but I loved the routine—low maintenance, easy to do, and I saw lots of length retention. The only drawback is that my bun looks skeet for 2 days (until the hair is fully dry”>. When wet bunning, use less product or your hair will never dry.

My best buns? I get the best buns on freshly done bantu knot-outs (the above pic”>, twist or braid-outs. In this state, my hair is easy to work with, lacks frizz, and provides enough volume to give me the BIG look that I so crave. I don’t use tools, just my fingers to gather the hair in a high bun, or low side bun. I secure with a satin scrunchy or Goody Ouchless Band and secure loose pieces with bobby pins. As long as I tie my hair up at night, I can rock this style for a week or more!

When I bun now, it’s usually on a 3- or 4-day-old Twist-n-Curl. It’s less defined, a bit frizzy, and sometimes the end result isn’t as chic as I’d like. On these days I opt for a messy mid-height or low bun. I don’t use any tools to gather my hair, and I secure it with a satin scrunchy or Goody Ouchless Band. In order to get the edges to lay, I usually apply shea butter and put a scarf on before I leave the house. I almost always adorn with a flower, and use a Goody headband to hold back my edges.

What about you?

How to Do My Modified Twist-n-Curl Routine

As promised, I’m laying out the details of my slightly modified routine. It has elicited compliments from friends and strangers alike, and I absolutely love the feel of my hair! Although I’m still doing a Twist-n-Curl, there are two major changes:

Lighter Products:

I’m using Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner to detangle in the shower, and as a moisturizing leave-in afterward. Since it has zero hold, I use a teeny bit of Deva Set it Free (2 squirts per twist”> for staying power. I seal with shea butter on the last 2 inches of hair prior to rolling. The result? Hair that feels naked…product free…fluffy…yet moisturized. It moves! It’s a great change from the heaviness of DevaCare One (which weighs my curls down showing more length”>, and I enjoy the volume it gives me on top. My latest lesson learned is that properly moisturized hair doesn’t have to feel product-y or heavy!

Apply products to damp (not dripping”> hair

My inspiration came from waking up to still wet, wet sets on a regular basis. My hair is a bit thicker now, and I’ve noticed that even with the ceiling fan, my Twist-n-Curls have not been 100% (or even 80%”> dry come morning. Cranking up the bonnet dryer or diffuser really isn’t an option… I try to reserve the heat for emergencies. I was recently sent a pair of Hand Dry Hair Gloves to try, and I’m really loving them. After detangling and rinsing clean (hair in 6 twists as always”>, I gently blot dry each twist until it’s just damp. I then apply the YTC and Set it Free to each section prior to twisting. The result? Hair that dries in half the time! I also seem to get more of a consistent curl pattern, and hair that appears to retain the moisture from the conditioner much better! Working with my damp hair used to be such a hassle… keeping it in detangled sections is the key. Also, I’m sure a paper towel or terry towel would work the same.

Besides the two points above, there are several other things I do to ensure good hair days:

Detangle in sections

When I get in the shower, my hair is loose. I wet it down, apply loads of conditioner, and let it marinate. I then split my hair down the middle, and start with the left side. I section out the back (pinning the rest of the left side up and out of the way”> and detangle with my fingers and Ouidad comb under the shower stream. I two strand twist that section and repeat with the section near my ear, and by my face. Repeat with the right side. I end up with three product free, thoroughly detangled, twisted sections on each side– 6 total. I then get out of the shower, blot, and apply my leave-in/stylers to each, prior to twisting.

Flat twist the roots

Twist Placement: For looser waves, I find that 11 twists suffice. Four near my face, one above each ear, four in the back, and one at the crown.

Preserving the Style: When showering on in-between days, I pull my hair into a low loose pony with a banana clip or satin scrunchy. I secure the crown with a silk scarf and cover it all with a shower cap. At night, I sleep with it out on my satin pillowcase, flipped over the pillow so that I won’t lay and drool on it. For my daily walk (outside or indoors”>, I pull it up or down into a loose pony.

Flexi-Rods for ends: I’m using these instead of magnetic rollers because they are less taxing on the ends and easier to sleep on. I don’t know the size in inches, but I use the pink (quite small”>, or blue ones.

Hair Days: I style twice a week, Monday and Thursday, or Sunday and Wednesday. Going any longer than that results in a drama-ful detangling session.

A $24 Comb? You Bet!

Yes, the rumors are true. My PJism has reached new heights… I bought a $24 comb. Sad.

In my defense, (1″> I’ve heard great things, (2″> it’s a comb/brush combo, and (3″> if I hate it, I can always return it! So, don’t judge!

Just as I’m always on the lookout for the next best detangling conditioner, I’m also looking for a new, fast, and less-damaging tool to detangle my hair. I’m not a huge fan of wide-toothed combs— they don’t get the job done for me and I’m usually left with tangles and shed strands caught in my curls. I love paddle brushes (like the Goody Ouchless one”>, but sometimes I feel that although my hair comes out smooth and detangled, it pulls out way too much hair. My fingers do an okay job, but sometimes you just don’t have an hour, lol. The Denman… rips my wet hair from my scalp. I was hoping that the Ouidad Double Detangler would be some sort of detangling miracle that combined the things I love about the different methods. Well, it’s not a miracle, but it’s not a total bust either.

I bought it on Sunday from Sephora, and finally used it for the first time last night.

Description

The most challenging aspect of curly hair is detangling it. This next generation tool is designed by Ouidad to slide through your curls without the ripping or tugging. Rows of teeth eliminate difficult knots and prevent curls from springing back and re-tangling. Longer Teeth reach through the most dense curly hair. Fewer Combing Strokes help curls remain defined and frizz-free. Spaced teeth are just the right width for detangling knots

Rounded Tips on teeth are soft on the scalp. Time Savings since curls are prepped to be styled or washed in half the time.

My Experience

First of all, this comb is a whopper. It weighs like a pound (or more”>, and is friggin’ huge! According to Ouidad, the comb is heavy and does the work so you don’t have to. Whatever the case, if it fails to detangle efficiently, I can most certainly use it for self-defense.

I hopped in the shower and intended to do another conditioner experiment—Yes to Cucumbers on the left, Yes to Carrots on the right. It was 6 o’clock, I was tired of standing, and my brain had stopped functioning at around 3, so I ended up using Yes to Cucumbers on both sides, lol. I’ll provide a review of this delicious conditioner later… but for now, just know that you need to run out and pick some up! It’s silicone free, slippery, and oh so moisturizing. Thanks for the recommendations ladies! But I digress…

After the YTC melted into my tangles, I grabbed the right half of my hair and sectioned out a chunk in the back. I pinned the rest up and out of the way. I reached for the double detangler and began combing from the ends up. I immediately noticed that it detangles more like a comb than a brush. It took at least a few strokes to remove my tangles (unlike a paddle brush”>, but it did so without pulling the hair– only the shed ones. I was grateful for that. Very gentle!

After I’d finish a section, I’d twist it up, grab a new chunk, and repeat. In the end, I had three fat, conditioner-laden twists on each side of my head. I then rinsed with my hair still in the twists and got out of the shower. I applied a quarter-sized amount of DevaCare One to each side (hair still in twists”>, and began my Twist-n-Curl process. I’d take down one twist at a time, run my fingers through it, and make two twists. My hair was still detangled and very easy to work with.

Bottom Line

It by no means cut my detangling time in half. It didn’t cook dinner, and it didn’t sing to me. It did, however, do an excellent job of removing shed hair, demolishing tangles, and smoothing. The weight didn’t bother me . . . my arms never got tired—I actually think they’re on to something! There was never any tugging or pulling, and I never heard strands popping. I only lost half the hair I’d usually lose after detangling with my Goody Ouchless Paddle Brush, and it didn’t pull my hair straight either. It’s a keeper, but I still don’t know if it’s worth 24 bucks…

Have you tried it? Please put a review in here! And tell me below in the comments area, would you buy a $24 detangling comb?

Aussie Moist a Match for Hello Hydration

Two of my favorite curly friends, HeatherNicole, and Naturally Leslie, gave Aussie Moist a rave review, and told me to check it out. So, me being the raging PJ I am, purchased a bottle yesterday…despite the fact that I already own 4 family sized bottles of Hello Hydration! The ingredients resemble my beloved Herbal Essence Hello Hydration, even down to the modified cone. In a previous article I discussed what sets amodimethicone and other similar molecules, such as bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, and trimethyl silylamodimethicone, apart from other cones. According to CurlChemist Tonya McKay:

“Amodimethicone and other similarly modified silicone polymers are considered to be among the best high-performance conditioning polymers currently available to the hair-care product formulator. They provide many unique benefits, including the following:

  • Provide deep conditioning
  • Provide targeted conditioning to areas of particularly damaged hair
  • Protect from thermal damage
  • Increase color retention
  • Resist build up
  • Impart gloss and shine

These modified silicones seem to be of particular benefit for those of us with damaged hair, permanently colored hair or those concerned about the buildup of conditioning agent.”

When using Aussie Moist, or Herbal Essence Hello Hydration, you will need to shampoo to completely remove the cone. Luckily, you won’t have to resort to the dreaded lauryl sulfates- shampoos with cocamidopropyl betaine will suffice. Remember, I use Giovanni 50/50 or Tea Tree shampoo from Target or Whole Foods. I shampoo bi-weekly, sometimes less if I’ve used Bentonite.

I put Aussie to the test the same way I’ve done previous ones. I loaded up one side of my head with Hello Hydration, and the other half with Aussie Moist. I let it sit while I handled my shower-time duties, then proceeded to detangle. Both sides felt identical! Aussie Moist, like Hello Hydration, made detangling a breeze. It was super slippery, creamy (a bit creamier/heavier than Hello Hydration”>, and smelled heavenly. I give it two thumbs up and definitely recommend it. I’ve never used Hello Hydration as a leave-in due to it’s nuclear blue color…I don’t know…its just weird to me. The clean white color of Aussie Moist may lead to some leave-in experimentation in the near future. I’ll keep you gals posted.

Bottom Line: If you’re a Hello Hydration girl, this one is worth a try. It smells great, has excellent slip, and is very moisturizing. It’s slightly thicker than Hello Hydration, so I added a bit of water post application to thin it out a bit. All in all, it’s a great, cheap conditioner. A curly can NEVER have too many detangling conditioners.

Ingredients: water, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, glutamic acid, fragrance, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, benzyl alcohol, edta, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, ecklonia radiata (australian sea kelp”> extract, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba”> seed oil, aloe barbadensis leaf juice extract.

Price: $3.69/13.5oz bottle

Curly Hair Q&A: Curlers, Henna, Shrinkage and Sex

Dear Nikki: How do you sleep with all those curlers in your hair??!!! I did a Twist N Curl once, and while I favored the results, the curlers gave me a headache in the morning!! Please dish how you keep your head from hurting but your curls ever-so-tight!

A: LOL! It can definitely be uncomfortable at times, but I’m a “beauty hurts” person, so I deal with it. I usually make sure to roll the magnetic or rod rollers to my chin, or just below. That way, when I lay down on my side, I can flip the twists and rollers over the pillow so that I lay flat and comfortably. During the night, if any of the clips (at the roots”> begin to hurt or dig into my scalp, I yank them out and throw them on the floor!

Dear Nikki: Whenever I do a Twist-n-Curl, the twists look great, but they look so dry. I am using the exact same products you use (Pantene R & N for the deep treatment, DevaCare One & Jessicurl WDT to set the twists.”> Is there something else I am missing to make it look shiny (like yours! :”>

A: Maybe she’s born with it…maybe it’s HENNA! My hair is naturally sheeny, and the henna has definitely enhanced this (along with rich conditioners”>. You’re already using moisture-rich products, so you’ve got that covered, but sometimes, less is more. Every now and then, when I’m heavy-handed with products, I get a dull cast over my hair. Maybe your hair would fare better if you use DevaCare One (quarter-size amount for each half”>, and simply seal the ends with Shea? See how that treats you and report back!

Also, if henna’s color scares you, check into cassia—you’ll get the shine without the red.

Dear Nikki: When I comb through my wet hair, it is shoulder length but, when it dries, it shrinks to about ear-lobe length. What can I do/use to prevent some shrinkage?

A: Shrinkage comes with the territory of natural hair. Henna can help reduce shrinkage for short periods of time, but this isn’t necessarily the case for every curly. If you’re currently wash and going, try twisting, roller-setting, TnC’ing, or braiding your wet hair. Let it air dry completely, take it down, and fluff. Wet setting greatly reduces shrinkage.

I used to stretch my roots on occasion to achieve a fuller, longer look. This hair tip definitely works, but please use it sparingly. A blow fryer should not become a staple of your arsenal!

After my wash and go was fully dry (this is very important”>, I’d grab chunks of hair and blast the roots (with warm air”> with a diffuser or air concentrator attachment. See step 8 of this Miss Jessie’s Tutorial for a visual. I’d do this until most of the hair was stretched…taking about 5 minutes total. The end result was a bigger, fluffier curly fro that would last until humidity hit it, or it got wet.

Recently, I discovered that pulling your freshly set and dried hair up into a loose pony overnight, yields the same results as the blow dryer trick above…with much less stress and damage of course! This is my new bedtime routine…I either leave it out, or pull it into a high pony.

Dear CurlyNikki:How do you moisturize your hair without ruining your style?

A: This is a toughy, and I must admit that there are days that I choose beauty over moisture, lol. Not good. When I opt for bigger curls (magnetic rollers”>, it’s much easier to apply shea butter or Deva Set it Free to the ends. But, when I want a shorter, fuller curly bob (rod rollers”>, I never want to disturb the little curls, so I usually leave them alone 🙁 The key is to start with properly moisturized hair. Deep treat/condition with a moisturizing conditioner, rinse, and apply your rich leave-in, and be sure to seal the ends. Those steps are crucial, and make moisturizing on day 2, 3, or 4 less important.

When I choose to moisturize my ends, I use a product that clumps the curls (shea or Deva”>, rather than one that would weigh it down or frizz it out (water based moisturizer or oil based moisturizer”>.

Dear CurlyNikki: Do you tell us ALL your hair secrets?

A: Of course! Y’all know about every favorite product, every failed product, every successful styling attempt, every botched styling attempt… even my sex/bedtime routine (which has changed, by the way—no more bonnet!!!”>. I dish all because it’s therapeutic for me, and benefits you gorgeous chicas!

How To Do CurlyNikki’s Twist-n-Curl

Many of you have asked to see exactly how many twists I do for the Twist-n-Curl (it has changed since the video last year”>, and exactly where I place them. So, here you go!

I continue to use my old faithful routine — co-wash and detangle with Herbal Essence Totally Twisted conditioner or Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle conditioner, using fingers only. I then apply DevaCare One Condition and DevaCurl Set it Free to style. It takes me 30 minutes to condition and detangle, and only 15 to twist. I allow my hair to dry overnight, and I take it down and fluff in the morning. Deva gives me excellent, consistent results — shiny, defined, moisturized, and voluminous.


Nikki’s Twist-N-Curl

Growing to New Lengths

In the cyber world, there are several concoctions and magical serums floating around that promise to swiftly grow your hair to great lengths. I’m not in the position to review any of them…not even Boundless Tresses, which I used intermittently for 2 weeks. I believe that growth happens from the inside out. Obviously, we can’t override our genes, but we can MOST CERTAINLY maximize our growing potential!

The truth is, TLC and patience are the only sure things. However, from my personal experiences, I’ve learned that the following were correlated with faster than average (and/or healthier”> hair growth:

  1. Physical Exercise – Running or any other moderate/high intensity exercise (yay for Cardio”> increases the blood flow to your scalp. Increased blood flow means that more nutrients are brought to your hair follicle. I purchased a treadmill last year, and used it regularly for 5 months. I’d put in a Deep Treatment (DT”>, don a plastic cap, and walk briskly (I don’t run, lol”> for 30-45 minutes, 3 days a week. Killed two birds with one stone! Between the cardio, and the frequent DTs, my hair flourished!
  2. Healthy Diet – Hair consists of protein, so it is essential that you consume enough. Incorporate foods from all the groups – especially protein. Nuts, poultry, vegetables, fruits, grains, eggs, etc. All contribute to healthy, growing hair.
  3. Dietary Supplements – Biotin and MSM are ingredients every hair vitamin should contain. Biotin promotes cell growth, the production of fatty acids, and metabolism of fats. MSM lengthens the hair growth phase (which means that you keep more hair on your head”>. Using a combination of the two is beneficial for healthy hair. This winning combo, plus a quality multivitamin will definitely aid in the hair growing process.
  4. Henna – If you do a search for ‘henna + hair growth’ on the hennaforhair.com forum, you’ll see that many women truly believe that henna has resulted in increased hair growth. I’m a believer too! My jump from shoulder length to APL last year was directly preceded by my first henna applications. Some ladies think that the actual process of applying henna stimulates the scalp (which we now know, aids in hair growth”>., while others believe that the anti-fungal properties of it actually promote a healthier scalp. One could argue that henna stretches the curl, and gives the illusion of longer hair….whatever the mechanisms are, for me, it produced faster hair growth.
  5. Scalp Massages – Nightly scalp massages (with castor oil, believed to promote growth as well”> increase blood flow to the scalp and hair follicles. 5 minutes should suffice.

Of course, hair growth is nothing without an understanding of retention. Protective styling, moisturizing and sealing, frequent deep treatments, and delicate handling all aid in retaining the length you’ve worked so hard for!