Search Results: Nikki Walton
Hiya! My name is Amber & I’m 19 years young! I’m a born & raised Georgia girl currently living in downtown Atlanta attending university. I’m a sophomore at Georgia State University & I’m studying exercise science to become a physical therapist. Right now I have one of the best jobs in the world as a Wings Team Member for Red Bull, otherwise known as a Red Bull girl!
What is your hair care regimen?
Ah, like most of the natural hair world, my regimen is a bit extensive! For time’s sake, I mainly stick to wash & go’s.
Shampoo:
I shampoo with a sulfate-free shampoo every other week using the Shea Moisture Curl & Shine Shampoo to cleanse my hair but not strip the hair of its needed moisture. But, when I have product buildup, I use the Herbal Essences Totally Twisted Shampoo with sulfates to remove any buildup. (Any shampoo with sulfates will suffice, though.”>
Conditioner:
I condition with TRESemmé Naturals Nourishing Moisture Silicone-Free Conditioner. It’s very moisturizing with amazing slip without the pesky silicone that coats the hair shaft and averts necessary moisture! On days that I feel that my hair is looking a bit dull and lifeless but I don’t have time to deep condition, I use Aussie Moist Three Minute Miracle for a quick pick-me-up!
[prodmod]Deep Conditioner:
I mix my own deep conditioner and adjust the ingredients according to my current needs. I do this quite often, especially because my hair is color treated at the ends. I like to use either an avocado or some store-bought hair cholesterol as my base. Sometimes I’ll add an egg to the mixture if I feel my hair could use the extra protein. But normally, I just add pure honey, extra virgin coconut oil, extra virgin olive oil and some the silicone-free conditioner for slip. I get my best results when I steam my hair (guiltily with my clothes steamer…it gets the job done!”> and wear a shower cap overnight to really retain the moisture. Remember to rinse with cool water! Feel free to try things like bananas, greek yogurt or jojoba oil to figure out which combination works best for you! There are a lot of options.
Hot Oil Treatments:
I mix extra virgin coconut oil and extra virgin olive oil together in a color applicator and run hot water over it to warm the mixture instead of zapping out the nutrients in the microwave. Remember to explore which oils your hair likes best!
Stylers:
I’m always trying new styling products, but I tend to stick with the Shea Moisture line. I use the SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie as a leave-in conditioner/styler, and the SheaMoisture Curling Gel Soufflé.
How long have you been natural?
I’ve been natural for about three years now.
What motivated you to transition? Were you a trainsitioner or Big Chopper? Why?
I can’t really say I had found any inspiration to go natural or stay natural other than the fact that I was entirely sick of straightening my hair! I’d always had long hair, so the idea of chopping it off genuinely scared me. Ever since I was little, I’d gone to the salon to have perms and have my hair straightened. I remember feeling embarrassed at even such a young age because stylists would say that my hair was “too much work” or “nappy” because it was and still is almost unbearably thick. Though a permed my hair less and less, I continued routinely straightening my hair through high school until my senior year. I realized that with college soon approaching that I would more than likely have to rely on myself to have my hair straightened, and the fact that that’s almost a three hour process was more than enough to make me drop the flat iron for a while! I really adored the idea of not having to worry about my hair being perfectly straight all the time. Luckily, even though I’d been frying my hair for years, it didn’t take too long for my natural curl pattern to be nursed back to health. I liked being able to just let my hair do whatever it pleases and rock it the way my genes intended!
I fondly describe my hair as my biological pillow.
How would you describe your hair?
I fondly describe my hair as my biological pillow. But to others as well as myself, my hair is kind of like a lion’s mane. I have two different textures; the right half of my hair is more wavy than the left half which has tighter coils and tons of shrinkage, often leaving me looking like I got a bad haircut! But whatever my hair wants to do is what it’s going to do, and I’m okay with that.
What do you love most about your hair?
I love the freedom that comes with my hair being natural. Natural hair is so versatile! I love the little kick my big hair can do for an outfit, especially since I colored the ends of my hair. But most of all, I just enjoy that my hair is healthy, because it’s the most important thing.
What has been the most memorable part of your journey? Has it been easy, difficult, or both?
The entire journey is so memorable! It was a surprise each morning to watch my hair get healthier and healthier. I honestly had no idea that my hair could even look the way it does today. It was so refreshing to just go with whatever my hair wanted to look like that day. I didn’t care that people thought hair should look a certain way. Looking back at old pictures of my hair trying to get healthy I’m shocked at how pitiful it was but I remember how happy I was at that very moment that my hair was slowly but surely on its way to health.
What are were some of your favorite transitioning hairstyles?
As I was transitioning, I never wore any hairstyles other than my hair being down or in a bun. I never really ventured to try any other styles, and to this day I still haven’t. I’m quite fond of letting my hair just run free.
What have your experiences been as a ‘natural’? Any memorable reactions from family or others?
I always recall my mother being so proud of me for letting my hair be as it is. I used to beg and beg for her to take me to the salon to have my hair permed, and she really didn’t want me to. I was a bit of a tomboy when I was little, so I just wanted my hair straight and out of the way so I could get all rough and dirty outside. And, as you know, kids are mean. They used to make fun of how big my hair was. So it’s a relief to her that I stopped perming it. Everyday she would say, “Amber, your hair is so curly! It’s so pretty!”
My boyfriend likes to make fun of me sometimes, because when I feel like I’m having a good hair day I say, “My hair is POPPIN’!” So he’ll say that my hair is poppin’.
What are some of your favorite natural hair websites, YouTubers, or blogs?
I watch a TON of YouTube channels. My favorite is none other than the Shameless Maya! She’s so fierce and inspiring. Her approach to living is definitely motivating, and she always has such inspirational advice. Some of my other favorites are HeyFranHey, SunKissAlba, & Glamtwinz334.
Anything you want the readers to know?
As Virgil said, “the greatest wealth is health!” I’ve come to learn that curly hair takes a lot of work, especially when you’re trying to nurse it back to health! But you shouldn’t let that discourage you from keeping your hair healthy. No matter what, good hair is healthy hair! Also, it’s important to cater to what YOUR hair needs! There are TONS of products on the market, but take the time to explore what options are best for YOUR hair to keep it healthy! The easiest way to do that is DROP THE HEAT TOOLS! Your hair will thank you! It’s hard to do, but you’ve really got to allow your hair to breathe and get moisturized. Constantly using heat tools deprives your hair of much needed moisture! But, this doesn’t mean you can’t use them at all, just not as often. The great thing about natural hair is its versatility! I tend to only straighten my hair for big events like weddings or maybe a job interview. That being said, I only straighten my hair about three to four times a year, and that’s AFTER I’ve made sure to deep condition my hair and apply a heat protectant. But all in all, keeping your body healthy is important as well. A healthy diet, plenty of water and exercise is the best thing you can do for yourself!
Where can people find you for more information?
Feel free to contact me through email at amber.guidry@yahoo.com. Also feel free to connect with me on twitter @Ambreezyyy_ & Instagram @ambreezy_!
This post was originally published on CurlyNikki by Global Couture LLC.
Global Couture is trying to spread the word about embracing your natural hair. Love your HAIR, if it is wavy, curly, kinky or coily. Follow them on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram.
Are you naturally fierce? Email us to share your hair journey at blog@globalcouture.net
As naturals our search for hair care knowledge usually fulfills a couple desires:
1. To achieve “healthy hair”
2. For our hair to grow
Well, that’s not what we really mean is it? Our hair grows. It grows at varying rates monthly and throughout the year and its growth is based on our genetics, our overall health, nutrition, hormones, etc. But it does grow. What we are most interested in is the retention of length. If your hair breaks just as much as it grows then you’re not going to see the lengths adding up. The truth is that our hair care regimes – as simplistic or complex as they are – are implemented to prevent damage.
With all the care you’ve taken of your hair, would it surprise you to know that even if you don’t have overt signs that your hair is in fact damaged? And the longer your hair is, the more damage it has sustained? And that many things you’re doing – knowingly or unconsciously – are contributing to your hair not looking it’s best and you NOT loving your hair?
“Hair Damage” is a condition where one or more of the hair structures – the cuticle, cortex, medulla, etc. – are physically or chemically altered so much that they are unable to return to their original state. Cuticles can become cracked and frayed, the hair shaft can become cracked damaging the cortex and medulla, and the hair fiber can be exposed and unprotected in extreme cases.
The question is, to what extent is your hair damaged?
Main Causes of Damage
Common causes of hair damage include that from regular hair care practices such as mechanical manipulation, to extreme processes like chemical altering.
Number 6: Mechanical Damage
Mechanical damage includes damage from friction and tension. Friction occurs when the hair strands rub against each other. In some hair types and textures this can lead to a build up of static electricity and flyaways. This is rarely the case for textured hair. What we tend to experience is the rising of the cuticles and tangling. Causes of friction include combing, brushing, manipulation of the hair with our fingers, shampooing and conditioning the hair.
Number 5: Tension
Tension is another culprit when it comes to damaging the hair. A common example of this is traction alopecia which results in hair loss along the hairline. It’s caused primarily by pulling forces being applied to the hair, and occurs commonly from tight ponytails, puffs or braids.
Number 4: Heat Styling
Heat styling is a major source of damage especially when the hair is being manipulated with a brush while being styled. These tools can deplete the hair of moisture resulting in dryness.
Number 3: Shampoo
Shampoos that have a pH higher than 5.5 can cause a pH imbalance and affect the cuticle. If it contains harsh surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate the hair can be stripped of its natural oils located in the epicuticle, or the outermost cuticle layer. This can result in mechanical damage due to combing and styling. In addition, the intercellular “glue” which binds the fibers of the cortex together can be dissolved by repeated shampoos with a high pH and harsh detergents. This can lead to damage to the cortex (which accounts for the hair’s strength”>.
Numbers 1 & 2: Modifying Your Chemistry
Lastly, hair can be damaged from modifying its chemistry through the application of chemical relaxers, texturizers and permanent colours. When the hair is damaged in this way, the fatty acids cuticle are stripped away leading to an increase in the porosity of the hair. More water will enter the hair shaft causing it to swell. A swollen hair shaft can result in a lifted cuticle, more friction, tangles and damage.
Are you implementing hair damaging practices?
The reality is that the longer your hair is, the more exposure it’s had to physical manipulation. The hair towards the end of your hair is the oldest and most susceptible to being damaged from combing, brushing, exposure to UV rays, manipulation, friction, etc. For women who are natural, damaged hair usually occurs from washing and combing the hair (which causes damage to the cuticle”>, bleaching and colouring the hair and from weathering. No, we’re not talking about the climate. Hair weathering is the deterioration of the hair shaft from root to tip from a wide range of cosmetic and environmental factors. Combing, brushing, braiding, weaving, hair extensions, straightening, waving, perming, and dyeing, as well as environmental factors such as exposure to UV light, can lead to structural damage to the hair fiber. The cuticle becomes raised and porous, exposing the cortex to further damage. This can result in a hair that looks dull and lacks shine, a reduction in elasticity, and strength, ultimately leading to hair breakage.
So what is “healthy” hair?
In her book “Hair Care Rehab: The Ultimate Hair Repair & Reconditioning Manual”, Audrey Davis-Sivasothy describes healthy hair as “damaged hair that is well-maintained”. According to Audrey, characteristics of healthy hair or hair that is in good condition include the appropriate balance of the following properties:
- Elasticity – the ability of the hair to be stretched or manipulated without breaking.
- Porosity – the ability of the hair to absorb moisture.
- Strength – The ability of the hair to resist breakage with manipulation.
Now this section is important.
Healthy textured hair should:
- Have minimal breakage
- Feel soft to the touch
- Appear shiny or possess sheen
- Have the ability to PROPERLY RETAIN MOISTURE
- Have a fairly uniform curl pattern from the base of the hair to the ends
- Snap back to its original position after being stretched
How do you know if your hair is damaged? Well, if you have split ends, mid-shaft splits or breakage then your hair is damaged and has the potential to become even more damaged. Yep, I’m with you if you answered yes to any of these. Hello, my name is Susan, and I’m a naturalista with damaged hair! Once hair has been damaged there is no way to repair it. The only way to rid the hair of damaged areas is by cutting. Companies market products as having the ability to “repair the hair” but this is not entirely true. What the products can do is temporarily improve the state of the hair to make it look, feel and perform like hair that is healthier, as well as prevent future damage. So that was the bad news. The good news is there are a few strategies you can use to minimize damage to your hair in the first place.
In the meantime, how damaged is your hair? Let’s get a discussion going!
This post was written by DrWalkerWellness for CurlyNikki.
Question: Is No Poo a good way to clean hair?
“What’s the deal with this “no poo” craze? Does the hair get more healthy because of the natural oils you use? I’ve seen on Pinterest people talking about using baking soda as a cleanser and apple cider vinegar as a conditioner.” – Allie
To answer Allie’s question we review several alternate ways to wash your hair.
The Ultimate No Poo
This means you don’t clean your hair AT ALL. Not even rinse it with water.
Does it work? Sure. You don’t actually have to shampoo your hair. Of course, it won’t be clean either. It will be less damaged and probably look more shiny. However, it may also look and feel greasy, smell funny, and be difficult to style in any way except laying flat on your head.
Shampoo free poo
This is rinsing your hair with water.
Does it work? It will certainly refresh your hair but it won’t remove heavy styling residue. (And, as we’ll explain, you’re still damaging your hair even without the shampoo.”>
Cowashing
Also known as conditioner washing or “co-poo” this simply using a conditioner to wash your hair.
Does it work? Yes because conditioners contain surfactants (although a different kind than the ones used in shampoos.”> Also, they are used at much lower levels so they don’t clean as well and conditioners may have more oily materials which leave your hair feeling dirty. For everyday cleaning you’ll likely be disappointed by using conditioner as your hair cleanser. It can also start to build up on hair and feel heavy. It will also attract a lot more dust, pollen, and dirt from the air. The WEN brand is probably most popular in this regard but you don’t have to spend a lot of money to try this. Look for an inexpensive silicone free conditioner like the traditional VO5 and Suave products.
Reverse shampooing
This involves applying conditioner or an oil to your hair BEFORE you shampoo. The idea is that you’re “using up” some of the detergency of the shampoo on the “fake oils” so less of the “natural oils” are stripped away.
Does it work? Yes, to some extent. We did some experiments and saw some reduction in color fading. But it has the same negatives as cowashing.
Dry shampoo
This is typically an aerosolized powder (for example, starch”> that you spray onto your hair and brush out. (also sprinkle in versions”>
Does it work? Absolutely. The powder absorbs excess oils from your hair and then you brush the powder out. It also is scented so it’ll leave a bit of that fragrance behind. But it doesn’t clean your hair nearly as well as a regular shampooing. It also may leave a white residue and can leave hair feeling gross. However, if you want to skip a shampooing day or two this product is good in a pinch. It’s also good for color treated hair because it will help reduce the amount of color lost. We developed one of the first mass market dry shampoos and saw a secondary benefit which was “second day hair.” Gave hair better texture on the second day so it styled better.
Alternative shampoos
This is washing your hair with something other than shampoo (like baking soda or vinegar.”>
Does it work? It depends on what your shampoo substitute is. Some people think they can use body wash instead of shampoo. And you can…but chemically body wash is almost identical to shampoo so there’s no extra benefit. (In fact if anything it will leave your hair feeling worse.”> What about baking soda and/or vinegar? Baking soda is NOT a good idea. It’s not a good oil absorber so it won’t work like the starch in a dry shampoo. Plus, it has a very high pH which can slow down the restoration of the acid mantle on your scalp. Theoretically the high pH can damage the hair as well by causing additional swelling. Vinegar has a low pH but other than helping to remove mineral buildup, it doesn’t really provide any benefit. The idea that the low pH closes up the cuticle and makes hair shinier is just a myth.
No-Rinse shampoos
What is it? Here’s another way to wash your hair without water. The formula is a real shampoo except you don’t rinse it out. The most popular brand is No Rinse Shampoo. The formula is much runnier than a regular shampoo so you don’t need water to make it lather. Just put it on dry hair, work through with your fingers and watch it foam. Then wipe out the foam with a towel for clean hair.
Does it work? This formula will work better than the dry shampoos. It can clean your hair better than a conditioner. But it won’t be nearly as good as a regular shampoo. But if water is in short supply or you just don’t feel like hopping in a shower, this no-rinse shampoo might be for you. Also, you may find the residual surfactant that’s left on your scalp can be irritating.
Sulfate free shampoo
Honorary mention: Again it’s a matter of personal preference. Sulfates are excellent cleansers and if you have very greasy hair or use a lot of styling products will probably will welcome them. On the other hand if your scalp is easily irritated or if you think you’re prone to dryness you may not like the way they leave your hair and scalp feeling. The sad thing is that most sulfate free products work very similarly to sulfates. There are only a few detergents that have really been proven to be demonstrably milder.
Why is washing and drying damaging?
Two reasons: the hair fiber swells when saturated with water which causes uplifting of the cuticle. Drying the hair does not reverse all of this cuticle lifting and once the cuticle is lifted it can become loose.
The second reason is that you have to dry your hair. If you’re using a towel to any extent you’re causing a lot of friction by rubbing the hair. If you’re using a blow dryer the high heat can cause damage. Of course if air drying your hair must be perfectly safe, right? Not necessarily.
One study found that air dried hair sustains more damage to the Cell Membrane Complex (CMC”>, the sandwich-y layer of proteins, lipids, and covalently bonded fatty acids that is the “glue” that binds cuticles together. Once the CMC is damaged cuticles can become dislodged more easily which leads to rough damaged hair which may eventually split and break. The authors hypothesize that because air drying takes so much longer than blow drying that some internal components of the CMC are exposed to water for much longer time. This water exposure over time causes a buckling in the CMC layer. Blow drying removes the water more quickly so the CMC doesn’t have a chance to buckle. While this is intriguing discover there are two major caveats: first, this is a single study and one should never completely believe a surprising finding that comes from only one study; more research needs to be done. Second, even though blow drying appears to cause less damage to the CMC, it does cause MORE surface damage. Therefore you’re trading one kind of damage for another by air drying hair.
Is No Poo better for hair’s natural oils?
This is another myth. Let’s talk about how oil (also known as sebum”> gets on your scalp in the first place. Sebum is generated in tiny sebaceous glands beneath the surface of the skin. These glands produce an oily substance that reaches the skin’s surface through hair follicles. Some sebum is a good thing – it’s a natural moisturizer and it keeps your skin and hair soft and supple. (Of course some people are prone to excess sebum production and that can be too much of a good thing.”> The proponents of this myth must think that washing your hair strips away the natural oils so that NOT washing hair leaves more natural oil on your hair. Right? No, not really.
Any time you’re wetting and drying your hair you’re damaging the fibers and stripping color.
Actually, stripping away oil with a shampoo will make your glands produce more oil. To understand how this works, you have understand how sebum production is regulated – in other words what turns the sebum glands on and off. It turns out that it’s the presence of sebum on the surface of skin that controls sebum production. How is that possible?
If you want all the details check out this study in which scientists stripped oil off skin and then measured how long it took the skin to re-oil itself. But their bottom line is that the presence of oil on the skin’s surface sends a signal to the sebaceous glands to turn off. This signal is caused by either the pressure of the oil in the follicle or by the creation of a chemical signal that travels back down through the skin. But then why doesn’t shampooing make your scalp oilier and oilier? That’s because the oil production levels off very quickly.
Any time you’re wetting and drying your hair you’re damaging the fibers and stripping color. Therefore, any alternative that eliminates water will reduce damage and keep color from fading. But there is certainly no evidence showing that at home solutions like baking soda and vinegar are better for your hair than shampoo. In fact, some alternatives (like using baking soda”> may do more harm than good but other than that it’s really just a matter of personal taste.
What’s your method of cleansing? What have your results been?
This post was written by The Beauty Brains for CurlyNikki
Were you a slow transitioner or a Big Chopper & why? (tell us your natural hair journey”>
I had been blow drying/flat ironing my hair straight for 15-20 years. In 2011, on a sightseeing trip to Rome, we were on the go from 7am to 7pm, so there was no time for blow drying or flat ironing! I just wore my hair in its natural state for a week (it was much shorter then”>. I liked it so much that when I got home I just kept it that way; it hasn’t been straightened in over 2 years!
Had you always embraced your texture?
Unfortunately, no.
How did family and friends react to your decision to go natural?
The reaction was universal: “Why had you been straightening it for so long??” Everyone loved it, and that only strengthened my resolve to keep it curly.
Describe your hair (fine or coarse, thin or thick, highly porous, low, etc.”>
My hair is a little coarse, thick and highly porous.
What’s your current hair routine? How often do you wash, condition, and style? favorite products! Deets!
I wash and condition twice, sometimes three times a week. I dry my hair (gently!”> with a microfiber towel.
I use DevaCurl No Poo and DevaCurl One Conditioner or sometimes I use NYC Curls The Curl Conditioner. I also use DevaCurl Styling Cream. Sometimes I’ll use the blow dryer on a low setting if I’m in a hurry.
How do you maintain your hair at night?
I really don’t do anything special at night; in the morning I wet my hair in the shower and re-style.
[prodmod]How do you maintain healthy length?
I get my haircut at the Devachan Salon 2-3 times a year.
What’s the best thing about being curly?
It’s SO much easier than wearing it straight!!! My hair also looks so much healthier now than it did before.
Where can folks find you on the web?
I can be found at Mom Meets Blog at www.mommeetsblog.com
Twitter @RRBNY and @MomMeetsBlog
Instagram @MomMeetsBlog
Facebook at www.facebook.com/mommeetsblog
THIS STORY WAS ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED ON CURLYNIKKI
WRITTEN BY DRWALKERWELLNESS VIA CURLYNIKKI.COM
PHOTO COURTESY OF SUMETRAREED
I recently modified my hair care regimen and the results blew my mind. There was an incredible softness to my hair that I had never really experienced. My hair is not usually soft at all. So you understand my delight. And all from adding in one, relatively inexpensive product. And what was it?
Glycerin.
Given all of the rules, regulations and restrictions of natural hair care, if you’re one of those women who has been taught and believes that glycerin dries out your hair and makes it hard then you probably should stop reading this article. Or maybe you should continue – to discover that truth, that is.
If your hair is incredibly dry and brittle then you’ll definitely want to keep reading.
I’ll never really understand why anti-glycerin campaigns are common among some naturals. You’ll read the blogs and view the videos of some women who state that glycerin shouldn’t be used or to look for products that are glycerin free and all sorts of “interesting” information.
And while I completely understand that each person’s hair is different and requires specific types of ingredients and products to look and feel it’s best, all hair types have one specific requirement that is a foundational requirement to looking and feeling its best:
Moisture.
If you hair is not “moist” then it’s dry, brittle, breaking, flaking. You name it, your hair experiences it when it’s not properly hydrated.
Humectants
A key set of ingredients in getting your hair to be moisturized is to humectants.
Humectants are used in hair and skin care products to promote moisture retention. They have the wonderful ability to attract water from the atmosphere. Many different molecules have the ability to be effective humectants and how well they do this depends on how many water-loving sites they contain for hydrogen bonding with water molecules. The strength of this bonding between the humectants and water improves moisture retention by slowing down water loss due to evaporation. Because of their water-binding abilities, humectants are ideal for dry, thirsty hair. That was so nice, I’ll state it twice.
Because of their water-binding abilities, humectants are ideal for dry, thirsty hair.
Let’s go a bit deeper. You know I’m all about the “why” so you’ll develop an understanding of the principles I’m discussing.
Thermodynamics & Your Hair
Now for the scienc-y stuff so bear with me. This will only take a minute.
In Tonya McKays’ article The Effects of Relative Humidity on Hair and Humectants, she points out that the laws of thermodynamics have a daily influence on our hair.
Thermodynamics is the study of energy. Energy exists in many forms such as heat, light, chemical energy and electrical energy. Everything in nature is always trying to reach a state of equilibrium or point of balance. What this means is that molecules that are highly concentrated in one area will typically move to an area where they are less concentrated until the concentration is equal for both areas. This is called diffusion. Diffusion occurs in substances that are solids, liquids or gases. You can demonstrate diffusion easily yourself. Fill a glass with water and add a few drops of ink or dye to the water carefully. The colour will sink to the bottom initially because it’s denser than the water. However over time, if left undisturbed, the ink at the bottom of the glass will spread upwards from where it’s more concentrated (at the bottom”> to where it’s less concentrated (at the top”>. Eventually all of the water in the glass will be the same shade. This is the point where there are no more differences in the concentration of molecules.
Why is this important? Because when it comes to hair, this same law of molecules trying to reach a state of equilibrium or balance applies. And the molecules we’re most concerned with are water molecules.
Humidity & Dry Hair
Humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air. Dry hair usually doesn’t contain a lot of water. When it’s exposed to a very humid environment the hair will eventually become saturated with water molecules as water moves from an area of higher concentration (the humid air”>, to an area of lower concentration (the hair”>. Textured hair is more susceptible to this because it is more porous than straight hair. On the one hand this is good. The hair is super moisturized. On the other hand once the hair is exposed to high humidity environments the cortex can swell causing cuticle scales on the hair shaft to lift contributing to what we experience as frizz.
So what happens in dry, cold conditions? Dry air typically contains little to no water vapor, or has a low relative humidity. Hair that is exposed to this type of air will tend to lose water and moisture to the atmosphere as water moves down its concentration gradient from more concentrated (the hair”> to less concentrated (the air”>. The resulting hair is dry, brittle hair which can be prone to frizz, split ends and breaking.
Humectants can be a curly girl’s best friend or worst enemy depending on the situation so you need to know when and how to use them. The most important influence of how humectants will behave in your hair is the climate.
PHOTO COURTESY OF SUMETRAREED
Low Humidity vs. High Humidity
While the topic can be quite complicated it’s important to note that for the sake of hair care and the use of humectants, there are two main weather conditions: low humidity and high humidity.
Low humidity conditions are those such as cold, dry winter air. In this case, if you use products that contain a lot of humectants, there is not a lot of water in the air for the humectants to attract to the surface of your hair. What can occur is that the humectants in your products may prevent the evaporation of water from the hair into the air. Ultra-moisturized hair from humectant use ALONE in this type of climate isn’t going to happen. In fact there is a chance that humectants may remove moisture from the cortex of the hair into the air. Remember diffusion? Moisture will move from areas of high concentration (in this case the hair”> to areas of lower concentration – the air! This can result in dry, icky feeling hair. Not cool! Don’t panic. Humectants are still necessary but you’ll need to add something extra to ensure your hair lock in moisture as long as possible and feels soft and moisturized. You’ll need to use an oil to seal.
With high humidity conditions such as warm or hot summer air, there can often be A LOT of moisture in the air. Some moisture is good; a lot of moisture – not so much. If your textured hair is dry, damaged and overly porous it can absorb a lot of water from the air. This can lead to swelling of the hair shaft, lifting of the cuticle, tangling and frizz. Combine this situation with a product that is high in humectants (especially glycerin”> and you have a situation where a lot of water is attracted to the surface of the hair. This can lead to hair that always feels wet, takes forever to dry and is a sticky, tangled mess. In other words, cotton candy hair. Not hot at all! Again there is a way to tame the frizz.
You wanna get really anal and technical? Figure out the humidity using dew points
So how can you assess the humidity in the air? This is a complicated topic that’s difficult to wrap your head around if you’re not a meteorologist or physicist. However, you don’t have to be either one to get a basic understanding of how to determine how your hair will behave on a particular day. Something we can use is called the dew point. The science-y definition of dew point is the temperature below which the water vapor in a volume of humid air at a constant barometric pressure will condense into liquid water. Huh???
What you need to know is that the dew point is associated with relative humidity. The higher the dew point, the more moisture there is in the air. The lower the dew point, the less moisture in the air. To gauge how dew point makes you feel in general, dew points above 65 F (about 18 C”> make it feel sticky and humid outside while dew points less than 65 F are more comfortable. The higher the dew point above 65 the stickier it will feel outside.
With respect to hair, knowing the dew point can really help you in managing your hair and style and determine whether or not you’ll use humectants, and if so, how much. You can check the dew point of your location on various weather channels and online. If you have the time.
Types of Humectants
Complicating things EVEN MORE: Types of humectants
There are several different types of humectants found in skin and hair care products.
A few examples include:
- Glycerin
- Propylene glycol
- Honey
- Agave nectar
- Sorbitol
- Sodium PCA
- Sodium lactate
- Panthenol
- Hydrolyzed protein
- Fructose
What’s interesting about humectants is that each one has a different ability to bind to water. Glycerin, sodium PCA, sodium lactate and propylene glycol are humectants that have really strong water-binding capabilities while the other humectants have less.
I’ve used various humectants and my absolute favourite is glycerin. It’s available, relatively inexpensive and extremely effective.
Here are a few interesting facts about glycerin:
- It can hold onto water helping to increase the water levels in the hair
- Natural hair with glycerin can sustain higher levels of force before it breaks
At high levels it’s effective; however it can get pretty sticky. So it’s typically mixed with other ingredients and oils. However the bottom line is that it is an extremely effective moisturizer and can make a huge difference in your hair care regimen
How to Use Glycerin
So how do you use it? Here are a few tips:
- Don’t use straight glycerin. Mixing 1 part glycerin with 4 parts water is a good formula to start with. You’ll need to find that glycerin “sweet spot” (no pun intended”> for your hair, so experiment!
- If your hair feels soft after you use the glycerin it’s adequately moisturized or you’ve used too much glycerin. If it feels sticky then you’ve definitely used too much. Glycerin can be washed off easily with water so you can just apply a little water to your hair to remove the stickiness.
- If you have a moisturizer that’s not quite cutting it the great news is that you don’t have to go out and buy another moisturizer with adequate levels of glycerin in it. Use what you have and look for one that’s more effective later. In the meantime, add a glycerin and water mixture to your hair care regimen and note the difference in the way your hair looks and feels.
I don’t even know what to call this. But it happened – FOR REAL.
Background:
I’m married – 5+ years – to a wonderful husband and father. I’m pregnant – 5 months now – with my second child and I’m an emotional rollercoaster. I’ve been natural – almost 1 year – and, although it took some time for me to feel this way, I LOVE my curls.
The Drama:
My husband works from home and has watched our 2-yr old daughter from birth (SN: She has curls too and he washes and styles her hair very well during the week”>. About a month ago, he sent me a text at work saying we needed to talk when I got home. So, I come from work on my lunch break like I normally do. We decided to leave the house to run some errands. In the car, I asked him what he wanted to talk about. Then he said the six words that literally threw me into an immediate emotional breakdown: “WE NEED TO SPLIT UP.” Huh? What? Where is this coming from? Instant flood of tears and hyperventilating.
He never wanted me to go natural. He doesn’t like “nappy” hair. He likes straight hair. He felt that I had totally ignored his feelings by going natural in the first place, but the fact that I’ve stayed natural, despite his disdain, is even worse. It doesn’t matter that everyone else around us likes my hair. He is my husband and his opinion should matter most. When he married me I had long, straight hair. He’s not attracted to me anymore because of my hair, and therefore he felt that the best solution was to split up, instead of being disgusted with the sight of me daily. But if I straighten my hair (it doesn’t have to be a relaxer”>, then everything will be ok and go back to normal. Blah, blah, blah. SN: Just the week before, his close friend’s wife chemically relaxed her hair after a year of being natural because she couldn’t stand the negative feedback from her husband.
Ok, ok, ok. He probably didn’t use those exact words. But I’m pregnant, so that’s what it sounded like. I emailed my boss from my phone and said I couldn’t come back to work for personal reasons. After running our errands, I dropped him and our daughter back off at the house and drove off to clear my mind. I won’t go into all the thoughts that led me to my next actions, but I will tell you what happened.
I LOVE THIS MAN. I CANNOT IMAGINE MY LIFE WITHOUT THIS MAN. I WILL NOT LOSE MY HUSBAND OVER HAIR. But I felt this was a deeper issue than hair, and I also felt that some information was missing from his little rant. So I went back home. I grabbed a pen and paper and went straight to our bedroom. I got in the bed under the covers and started writing. Right after I jotted down my last thought, he came in to check on me. He gave me a big hug, and waited for me to speak. Here’s what I wrote/said, and his answers.
-I have more going for me than the hair on my head. YES YOU DO. -I’m beautiful, intelligent, stylish, in shape, a good mother, I bring home bacon just like you, and I cook it too. YES I AGREE. -I’m pregnant with your child, how dare you bring this to me right now. I FELT LIKE YOU WERE IGNORING HOW I FELT ABOUT YOUR HAIR. -My hair is beautiful and *I* LOVE it, no matter what anyone else says. I KNOW. -Our daughter’s hair is beautiful, are you going to request that she straighten her hair? NO, HER HAIR IS BEAUTIFUL. -Is your friend’s wife a better woman than I am because she relaxed her hair for her husband to make HIM happy, even though she will be unhappy? YES, I FEEL THAT WAY. BUT SHE IS NOT MY WIFE AND I DO NOT WANT ANOTHER WOMAN. -Are you willing to give up our love, sex, family, home, future plans… all because of my hair?! NO, NEVER.My response was: Then I cannot, WILL NOT get a chemical relaxer. So what is your REAL problem?
His response was: Well, it’s just that all the “different” styles you have been doing have been “nappy” styles. Can you please do some straight styles, and do them more often?
Of course! Why didn’t you say that in the first place boy?!
Ever since then, we’ve been back in love like usual. He touches my “nappy” hair and tells me I’m beautiful. And I still haven’t done a straight style yet, although I do plan to keep my promise – to prevent another childish rant.
Conclusion:
Turns out, he just did a really horrible job of expressing his feelings. And I did a really horrible job of acknowledging his feelings. We will not lose our love, our marriage, our life together… OVER HAIR.
Weigh in!
This article was originally published on CurlyNikki on October 25, 2011. However we feel the issues are still very much alive today. Have you experienced this in your relationship? How did you deal with it?
PHOTO CREDIT GLENN&THALIA PHOTOGRAPHY
How long have you been natural? How you was embraced your curls?
My hair has always been like this, but that does not mean that I haven’t ruined it by pressing and dying my hair a lot! I haven’t dyed my hair for 2.5 years now. I don’t press my hair unless it’s my birthday or a special occasion where I need to be ‘classier’ and not enter the room like a lion, lol
Were you a transitioner or a Big Chopper & why?
Yes, I had to do the big chop! After I shaved one side of my head it grew back so healthy, I had to chop the other side. Since that day, I promised myself not to dye and press my hair anymore.
How would you describe your hair?
My hair can be really frizzy! I don’t have thick hair but I have a lot of volume! When I wash my hair and put it in a braid, you would never know that my hair can get so big and frizzy!
What do you love most about your hair?
What I like most is that I can have it big and curly when I want, but I can also have it straight when I like to. Also, the volume! Because I don’t have a lot of hair but the volume makes it look that way.
What has been the most memorable part of your journey? Has it been easy or difficult or both?!
Both, I think! I use to dye my hair a lot and my hair had no curls because of the pressing, so I couldn’t let my hair down with all the ugly ends. It took me a year before I could let my hair down. But, I was determined to get my hair back so that made it easy not to press it again!
What have your experiences been as a ‘natural?’ Any memorable reactions from family or others?
Everybody is in shock! They forgot that my hair was like this! Otherwise they were like; “That’s the girl we remember!” … Everybody is pretty happy that I made this choice!
What is your hair regimen (including fav products”>?
Shampoo – I wash my hair once a week L’Oreal for curly hair (Evercurl Shampoo“>. I wash my hair upside down because I have this feeling that it creates more volume (I don’t know if it’s true, lol”>.
Condition – After I shampoo my hair two times, I condition (also L’Oreal“> my hair and wash it out! After that I leave my hair in a towel for 15 minutes. This is because my hair doesn’t dry fast.
Leave-In – After I remove the towel, I put in leave-in conditioner that I buy in a local store for 1 euro, very cheap… but I have never had a better product! Also I can use the leave in conditioner that L’Oreal has for curly hair.
Dry – After this I just let it air dry. In a cold country such as the Netherlands, it’s best to let it dry in the house but when I’m in a warm country, I love to let it dry in the wind.
Nighttime – When I go to sleep, I sleep with a high ponytail and in the morning I just untie my hair and run my fingers through it.. I don’t put anything in it until I wash my hair again; otherwise, my curls stay hard and it won’t bounce naturally anymore.
What are some of your favorite natural hair websites, YouTubers, or blogs?
I never knew there were so many blogs and websites about natural hair! But since I’ve gotten on a few, I have been watching some on Instagram and the internet. Let’s just say CurlyNikki is my favorite! Hahaha
Anything you want the readers to know? Inspirational words?
Just be happy with what you look like.
Some have straight hair, some curly, and others kinky. When I was a kid, people used to laugh at my frizzy/curly hair – now people love it! Don’t let people tell you what’s pretty and what’s not! Every hairstyle has its beauty!
Where can people find you for more information?
I don’t have a blog or a YouTube channel because I don’t have a lot to say about my hair but I do have Instagram: @h7_nnlc.
WRITTEN BY GLOBAL COUTURE, LLC VIA CURLYNIKKI
Global Couture is trying to spread the word about embracing your natural hair. Love your HAIR, if it is wavy, curly, kinky or coily.
WRITTEN BY THEMAINECAPTAIN VIA CURLYNIKKI
I don’t like to wear my hair out that often because I really don’t feel like spending the extra time every morning styling my hair and then having to spend another 30 minutes to an hour putting it away at night. Although I have to admit that I do enjoy the variety of styles that I’m able to put my hair in when it’s out.
If you have medium to long hair, you might be looking for easy ways to put your hair away at night. The hairstyles that I choose to wear to bed is often dependent on the style that I plan to wear the next morning, as well as the time that I’m willing to spend on my hair that night.
I’ve listed 10 different styles that our hair can be styled in for bed. As usual, you can either choose to wear a satin bonnet or scarf to protect the style or you could sleep on a satin pillow case instead.
10 Natural Hair Nighttime Solutions
WRITTEN BY GLOBAL COUTURE, LLC VIA CURLYNIKKI
PHOTO: SANDRA ÅBERG MAKEUP ARTIST TINE CHRISTENSEN
How long have you been natural? Have you always embraced your hair?
How would you describe your hair?
PHOTOGRAPHER OLEKSANDR PSHENYCHNYY
STYLIST IRYNA PSHENYCHNA
What do you love most about your hair?
PHOTO SOURCE INSTAGRAM
What has been the most memorable part of your journey?Has it been easy or difficult or both?!
PICTURED: MISS J. ALEXANDER WITH FAUNE’S PHOTO
What have your experiences been as a ‘natural?’ Any memorable reactions from family or others?
What is your hair regimen (including fav products”>?
PICTURED: FAUNE WITH HER SISTER
Anything you want the readers to know? Inspirational words?
Where can people find you for more information?
PHOTOGRAPHER ANJA EKSTROM
MAKE-UP ARTIST ANNAMIAH SILKE
GG OF ALL THE MANY LAYERS VIA CURLYNIKKI
Have you always been so confident and in love with your curls?
No, I have not. I can clearly remember the first few times when I wore my hair in a bush, you know, my first experiments with wash and go’s. My curls were so tight and squishy and my hair didn’t frame my face like it did when I wore it straight. I didn’t feel as pretty without my hair draped all over my face, hiding things and shaping things, you know?
I had to get used to this new look, and I had to dig deeper to redefine beauty for myself. How long has it taken for your to “master” the care of your your hair? Who/what helped you gain mastery?
Every time I think I have become a master, I get bored or lazy with my hair or it gets too long and it annoys me so I neglect it and regress. Or, some lifestyle change happens and I have to make adjustments.
What seems to work for me most broadly, no matter what is going on in my life is keeping my regimen simple, with certain core products that I always use, and keeping twist outs and braid outs as the foundation for almost every style. I definitely still experiment with products and new styles from time to time, but nowhere near as much as I did when I was a newbie. For the most part, I know what my hair needs when it acts up. I may need a protein treatment if it’s limp or over moisturized. I may need a trim if my detangling sessions get too wild and my hair is always looking scraggily and my curls and waves lose their spring. I got to this point through a lot of trial and error and communion with other naturals on blogs and in real life.
What is your cleansing hair regime (how often do you shampoo, condition, deep condition, and with what products”>?
I shampoo my hair about once a month, and in between I co wash either every week or every other week, depending on what season it is and what I have going on.
I’m all over the place when it comes to shampoo, but my most common staples are Giovanni Deep Moisture, Crème of Nature Argan Oil Moisture, SheaMoisture Moisture Retention, Alba Coconut Milk or Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose. I’ve been wanting to try Dr. Bronner’s Castille Soap on my hair, but haven’t tried it yet.
Let me pause here and say that I don’t have all of these in my product closet at once. I alternate between them over time, changing things up when the mood strikes me. As far as cowashing and detangling conditioners go, my regulars are Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat, Tresemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture, and Aussie Moist. I experiment the most in this area, because I’ll try almost anything that promises slip and comes in a huge container with a pump. There are three girls in my house and we all have a lot of hair so we go through conditioner like water.
For deep conditioning, my faves are Aubrey Organics Protein Balancing, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose, Camille Rose Naturals Algae Deep Conditioning Mask, Pantene Moisture Mask Deep Conditioner, and SheaMoisture Deep Treatment Mask. I experiment with deep conditioners too. If it’s not as heavy as I like, I add EVOO or Castor Oil to it.
What is your de-tangling process?
There’s a then and now aspect to this. Here’s what I used to do. On wash day or the night before, I would section my hair and douse it with coconut oil. Then I’d get in the shower and apply conditioner section by section detangling with my fingers as well as a wide toothed comb as I stood in the shower.
A few months ago, we started having problems with our water heater, right? And damn if that thing still doesn’t work right, so I can’t take so long in the shower, even on wash day. So, I started doing my detangling before I get in the shower and I love it. I still do the sectioning and coconut oiling, but now I take it section by section and apply the conditioner and detangle before I get in the shower. Revolutionary. For me, anyway.
How do you achieve your daily hairstyle?
My most common daily hairstyle of late is a braid and curl.
After a wash or cowash, I section my hair into about eight sections and stretch it by blowdrying. I always prefer to stretch my hair because the breakage, knots and aggravation I experience when my hair is not stretched is not worth it to me. I don’t have the patience.
So I apply Barry Fletcher’s Grease and I blow dry it just enough so that it’s stretched but not completely dry. Once each section is semi-dry, I apply a moisturizing styling cream like SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Cream, Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter or their Moisture Butter and then I corn row it, leaving about 2 -3 inches at the bottom unbraided.
I then spray the ends thoroughly with my aloe vera/grapeseed oil/rose water mix, and seal with something thick like Barry Fletcher’s Grease or Koils by Nature Hair and Body Butter and I put an end paper and sponge roller on the end. I do this for each section and let it dry/set overnight.
To maintain the style, at night I section it into about 4 – 5 pieces and put chunky two strand twists in it, sealing the ends with more grease each night. There are some nights where this does not happen, of course. I have three kids under the age of 11 so needless to say, I am not able to twist my hair every night.
I often just put it in a ponytail on top of my head, pineapple style, and pray it doesn’t get too crazy. In the morning, I’ll apply a curl refresher like Jane Carter’s Hydrate Quench followed by their Creamy Leave In Styling Smoother or Camille Rose Hair Milk or Camille Rose Moisture Butter. Whatever I have on deck.
How do you perceive relaxed/straight/weaved hair?
I’ve always loved healthy, vibrant hair whether it was relaxed, textured, curly, straight, whatever. I just love beautiful hair. I have no problem with relaxed hair. But unhealthy, damaged hair? Ew. I do judge. I wish I didn’t, but I do.
If I see dry, damaged looking hair or an unflattering haircut, I feel like the person is misguided and I wonder what their natural hair in a healthy state would look like. You know that unfortunate look when it’s all damaged and broken off and there is one piece of hair that is hanging on, long enough to touch their upper back, but the rest is a broken mess, and the person is telling everyone that they have long hair because they are hanging on to that one piece of lonely hair. Yeah. I don’t like to see that.
When I look at photos of my relaxed hair, even when it was healthy, I still feel like a watered down version of myself. My natural texture is so special to me now, and so reflective of who I am, that I can’t imagine not having it as a statement, showing the world who I am.
How do you battle the internal voice that may speak words of doubt about the beauty and worthiness of your natural beauty?
I’m at a point in my life where I’m constantly repeating affirmations to myself to counteract my inner critic.
For many years, I felt very insecure in my skin and in my personality, and I relied almost solely on the approval of others, men and women alike, to feel beautiful.
Beginning with my natural hair transition, I began appreciating all the things I used to hide. My hair is big and poofy and I like it. I used to hide that. I am very creative and sensitive and awkward and I used to feel completely embarrassed by that.
I have dreams of living a completely different lifestyle and having a very different career than what was expected of me, and somewhere inside I had to find the courage to pursue my dreams, regardless of what anyone thinks, even if no one understands right away. In order to do that, I have had to learn to work with that inner voice and find out where my insecurities come from.
I highly recommend finding a creative outlet. This is what saved me. When you have a way to express everything that’s going on inside of you in a creative way, to make sense of yourself and the world, then you will start to value and appreciate the outside more as well. Everything outside is an extension of what flows on the inside.
So that’s a long winded way of saying that I beat my inner critic daily by doing the following:
- I don’t say negative things to myself and when those old thoughts come up, I ignore them or redirect them.
- I change how I think about my insecurities by exploiting them and talking about them, taking their power away.
- I remind myself that the more authentic I am, inside and out, the closer I will get to fulfilling my dreams.
What hair product can’t you live without?
I can’t live without Barry Fletcher’s Grease. It’s got all natural ingredients and hands down it moisturizes my hair the best out of anything I’ve tried whether I apply to wet hair, dry hair, curly or straight. It reminds me of the Blue Magic Coconut Oil that my mom used to use on my hair as a child but without the mineral oil and petroleum. 8.
Any words of wisdom that you would like to share with the masses about natural hair?
My advice would be that natural hair, by itself, is just a grooming/styling choice. It’s just hair. Not a big deal. But the meaning you assign to it is everything. If it causes you to reconsider other things that you’ve been taught that no longer feel right for you, then take that empowerment you feel from your hair and apply it to your whole life.
Your hair, your beauty, your life, your way. That is all.
GG talks big hair, pretty things, and deep thoughts on her blog All the Many Layers.
In honor of the season of love, we wanted to take a moment to remind you why you should love your curls day after day. So often during this month we focus on those that we love and we forget that we have to love ourselves just as much. So take a moment to reflect on why you love that curly hairstyle of yours.
-
They are unique
Every curl is as unique as you are and that is one thing to love about curly hair. Curls come in all textures and lengths and nobody’s curl is ever the same as someone else’s. I love to remind myself that anyone can have straight hair, but not everyone can wake up in the morning with natural curls. Plus, your curly hairstyles can be different each day, depending on the weather and the products you use.
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They help you smell great
That’s right; smell great. Think about the products you use on a daily basis. One of the things that probably attracted you to it was the good scent. That scent is with you most of the day and knowing that someone could smell your curly locks and think “Wow! That smells nice” is something I know I can appreciate.
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They can help you bond
You are on NaturallyCurly.com and the CurlTalk message boards because you wanted a place to find all kinds of information about your curls and talk with other people about their experiences. Having curly hair makes you part of a family whose members can relate to each other and help each other out when they are dealing with issues like second-day hair. You couldn’t go to a straight-haired girl for that.
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No hairbrushes or combs required
One of my favorite things about having curly hair is the fact that I don’t have to spend the extra money on brushes and combs. I can use that money to feed my product addiction instead! The only things I need to detangle my curls are my fingers, and those are free. It’s nice knowing that I can walk right past the isle of brushes and combs and not worry about spending a dollar.
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Healthy hair is here to stay
In my opinion, the absolute best thing about being natural is the simple fact that once you go natural, your healthy hair is here to stay. You don’t have to worry about constantly damaging you hair with heat or relaxers because you can get up every morning and be satisfied with your curls. The more consistent you are with healthy hair treatments the better your hair will look.
Photo Alyssa Redenti. You can vote for her in the American Eagle Live Your Life Campaign here
BY MS ALICIA JAMES VIA CURLYNIKKI
Heat stretching for me is just about convenience and preference.
I heat stretch because it is easier for me to manage my hair and I enjoy it. I’ve used heat for over 2 1/2 years, which is over half of my journey. I’ve had great success and feel it has helped me to retain length.
Benefits of Heat Stretching
- minimizes knots and tangles
- makes wash day a breeze
- helps retain length
- easier to manage
No Heat Stretching
- twist outs
- braid outs
- roller sets
How I Heat Stretch:
1.”> Cleanse
I only add heat to clean hair (I like Herbal Essence Hello Hydration Shampoo”>.
2.”> Protein Treatment
Heat is known to break down the protein in hair, I like to add a little protection before using any kind of heat.
I’ve tried a couple of different products:
- Aphogee 2 step
- ORS Hair Mayonnaise (mild treatment”>
3.”> Deep Conditioning or Hot Oil Treatment
Heat can and will dry the hair out. I do a good deep conditioning/hot oil treatment. I mix my conditioner with my oil and sit under a hair dryer for about 30 minutes.
- Herbal Essence Hello Hydration Conditioner
- Extra Virgin Olive Oil
4.”> Air Dry
I put my hair into one low ponytail. I braid the hair and then tie down my edges with a satin scarf. I let my hair dry overnight.
5.”> Flat Iron
I have started using the flat iron instead of the blow dryer. My hair tends to hold more moisture when I skip the blow dryer and go straight to the flat iron. When I flat iron my hair the goal is not bone straight hair. The less heat the better. My flat iron goes up to 375 degrees. The temperature is labeled in numbers 1-20. I flat iron on heat setting 10. In the end I have hair that looks like a blow out. I use extra virgin olive oil or Cantu Shea Butter Leave In as a heat protectant. I use heat twice a month or every two weeks on wash day.
- Andis Ceramic Flat Iron
Gorgeous curls aren’t the only reason we girlcrush on CurlyNikki. The woman has flawless skin.
Lucky for us she shared her skincare secrets for the rest of us to try. Now, excuse me while I go find a bucket of ice water to stick my face in…
Nikki’s Skincare Regimen
Okay — so listen for one second before you unfollow/block me or whatever already for the title of this post because I know it is against the “natural hair code of ethics.” (Which was written by who you might ask? I’m not sure.”> But I am about to go on a little rant right now because I am just tired of all of this talk saying “I am not my hair, my hair doesn’t define me, I am going to go bald because I don’t want my hair to be who I am, blah blah blah.” There are many people who have said this but it has gotten to the point now where I want to voice my opinion. (Also please keep in mind I am in no way trying to offend anyone who may have a disease such as cancer or alopecia or anything. I am just trying to make a point.”>
First off — technically yes, I AM my hair. It grows out of my head and so it is just as much of my body as any other part of my body is. So if I am not my hair then does that mean I could cut off my arm too? Cause uhm, I’m pretty sure that it’s a part of me too. Really.
I truly believe that hair is a beautiful asset of a woman. Men typically have short hair– and women typically have longer hair than men. Typically. Cause yes there are many women who look STUNNING with short hair/fades. I think they look even better with short hair because it accentuates their natural beauty. And if you want to go that route because of your personal preference — I totally support that! But lets be real we are all not Amber Rose and if I go bald I’m gonna be looking like a baby alien! (Yes, a baby alien– cause I might still be a little cute– I think. lol”>. So I am not going to stop wearing my hair out or cutting it because “I don’t want to be my hair anymore.”
I also think this makes us take a few steps backwards if you ask me. We finally got over relaxers, and now we have to get over being natural? So we have come with the next best solution — no hair!!! *Straight face*. Can we ever win??
And for you beautiful women of God reading this who believe that having/flaunting/taking pictures of hair makes you vain or pretentious– the bible says “–a woman, her beautiful hair reminiscent of angels” 1 Corinthians 11:15 (MSG”> and the NIV translation says “if a woman has long hair it is her glory. For long hair is given to her as a covering.”
So I understand if you might have an issue comparing your hair to other women and wanting to have their texture and/or length, or caring about your appearance more than your character– but I don’t think that calls for you to disown your hair completely. If that’s the case that won’t even get to the root of the issue. You are just burrying the problem (which is envy and insecurity”> and not addressing it and fixing it. I’ve struggled with both of these issues and if I’m not careful I can end up feeling that way again too. But I have to remind myself that I am “fearfully and wonderfully made” and that “my confidence is in Christ.”
I don’t post pictures of my hair or wear it out just to show it off and flaunt how curly it is. I post it because until 7 years ago I hated my hair. Actually– even when I went natural I still hated it for awhile. I grew up wanting stick straight, silky hair like the white girls at school — or at least blonde loose curls like my beautiful mom who I always did and still admire. I was insecure and thought that people with straighter, finer hair were better and more beautiful than me.
And now even my beautiful 5 year old niece sometimes says things like “No one has hair like me” or “I want my hair smooth” and sometimes wears a blanket over her head to pretend it is long, flowly hair (lol does anyone else remember doing that? I used to all the time LOL”>. But my sister and I constantly remind her and tell her “Gianna your hair is beautiful! LOOK! Me and mommy have hair just like yours!”
I have finally embraced my natural texture and I want everyone else to too. I want people of all textures whether you are 1A or 4C to love what they were born with and embrace it just as much as you embrace your height, body shape, or whatever your other favorite attributes are. I love when I get emails from people saying how much I inspire them to embrace their natural texture, length, and stage of their journey.
If anything, I think the natural hair movement has brought more women together and has caused us to uplift each other and genuinely acknowledge each other’s beauty. I’ve never received this much affirmation, love, and encouragement from other women in my life. It was alway battles, jealousy, and tearing down of one another. I love how our hair has finally started to bring us together, and there is great beauty in that.
Oh–and I am not saying there is never a time where I am feeling myself too much– not at all. Because I am human and I am not perfect– WE ALL make mistakes ! We all have issues! But lets please please PLEASE– make life easier for everyone. Wear your hair HOW you want it. Whether it’s relaxed, weaves, natural, curly, long, short–whatever. Take your selfies if you want (not too many though because that’s just plain annoying. I don’t care if you’re Halle Berry– I would like to see the rest of my timeline please”>. And have FUN. Beauty is fun. That’s why we are girls. Us women like to get dressed up, put on our makeup and be girly, and men like to play video games and watch football all day or whatever *borrrringgg*. Its okayyy!!! It’s not that deep ladies.
Written by Susan Walker of Earthtone Naturals via CurlyNikki
Deep conditioning is an extremely important practice for many naturals and as a result there are various ways women deep condition their hair. But what is the proper way to deep condition the hair? Why are some methods more important than others and what is a complete waste of time. The purpose of this article is to sift through all of the information to give the real truth about this process, and how to get the results your looking for.
Why condition?
What you’re trying to accomplish with conditioning is to restore or maintain the elasticity of the hair so that it’s better able to withstand combing, brushing, cleansing etc. without too much damage. Conditioning can also improve the appearance of the hair causing it to appear healthy.
Conditioning in general should accomplish the following:
- Ease combing (both wet and dry”>
- Increase softness to the hair
- Minimize flyaways
- Reduce the porosity of the hair
- Improve the manageability of the hair
For the most part, a regular moisturizing or hydrating conditioner is able to give these results. However if you hair is damaged then deep conditioning should be a part of your regimen. Damaged is any condition where one or more of the hair structures – the cuticle, cortex, medulla, etc. – are physically or chemically altered so much that they are unable to return to their original state. Cuticles can become cracked and frayed, the hair shaft can become cracked damaging the cortex and medulla, and the hair fiber can be exposed and unprotected in extreme cases. Common causes of hair damage include that from regular hair care practices such as mechanical manipulation, to extreme processes like chemical altering. Once hair has been damaged there is no way to repair it. The only way to rid the hair of damaged areas is by cutting. What products actually do is temporarily improve the state of the hair to make it look, feel and perform like hair that is healthier, as well as prevent future damage.
Is your hair damaged?
Damaged hair typically has the following characteristics:
- Loss of elasticity
- Breaking hair
- Dull-looking hair
- Dry and brittle
- Highly porous
- Split ends or mid-shaft splits
- A lot of tangling
What type of conditioner do you need?
The type of conditioner you use for your hair will depend on your hair texture and the state of your hair.
For example, fine limp hair will need a conditioner that can increase body and thick, dry hair will require a conditioner that can be used for softness and moisture. Reconstructors containing a lot of protein should be used on hair that is fine, limp and damaged.
Moisturizing deep conditioners with a lot of oils, emollients and moisturizers should be used on hair that requires softening or is very dry. If your focus is on real deep conditioning then the type of product you use will be important, as well as how that conditioner is used on the hair.
In order to get the best results enough of the conditioning agents must bind to the hair and sufficient amounts of active ingredients must penetrate into the cortex of the hair.
This occurs under one or a combination of the following situations:
- High pH
- Heat
- Time
PHOTO COURTESY OF THEMANEOBJECTIVE
High pH
A higher pH results in cuticles that are more open. Hair is most vulnerable in this state but it’s also a great opportunity for the conditioner to really penetrate into the cortex of the hair rather than if the cuticles are closed. Cuticles are typically opened when hair is relaxed or chemically processed in some way. For natural hair, the cuticles are typically not really open unless the hair is very porous or damaged in some way. Using baking soda and castile soap (which are high pH ranges”> for cleaning can result in the cuticles opening. I don’t have any experience with either one of these cleansing agents to recommend how to properly use them and as a result, time and the use of heat with the conditioner will be discussed in order to maximize conditioning results.
How long should you leave it in
The longer the contact between the conditioner and the hair, the more the conditioning agents can bind to the hair, and active ingredients can penetrate into the cortex. Every ingredient in a conditioner has its own ability to adsorb (adhere”> to the surface of the hair and/or penetrate into the hair. Many factors depend on the use of high or low molecular weight proteins, the use of oils with long or short fatty acid chains etc. The key ingredients that can stick to hair like the surfactants, hydrolyzed proteins and polyquats will do so within a few seconds of applying the conditioner. If left on hair for longer the more they will be absorbed. In general the conditioning effect is present for up to 25-30 minutes. After this time absorption of active ingredients has reach its maximum and there is no real added benefit to leaving a conditioner on the hair after 30 minutes.
The Use of Heat
As the hair increases in temperature the possibility of the conditioners penetrating the cortex also increases. What temperature are we talking about? The hair should be at about 60 degrees Celcius (about 140 degrees Fahrenheit”> which can be achieved at the medium setting of an electric heat cap.
In Part 2 of this series we’ll take a look at the ingredients you need to look for in an great deep conditioner and the steps you should take to get the most out of your deep conditioning.
Written by LaChristin of Digital Curls via CurlyNikki
Life is full of dilemmas, and one such said dilemma has plagued women to this very day. That dilemma stems from having to answer the following question, and ultimately make an extremely difficult decision: “Do I maintain my magnificent hairdo or work towards a fit and fabulous figure?” Fortunately, I’ve been blessed to experience the best of both worlds! Here’s how I mash-up fro and fitness.
Be it braids, buns, or twist, I’ve styled my hair every which way in preparation to stay fit. Armed with a Dri-Fit Nike cap, Save Your Do Gymwrap, headband, or cotton scarf; I’ll utilize whatever protective mechanism necessary to tame my tresses! Protecting my edges during exercise is extremely important to maintain a healthy do.
Post workout I allow my hair opportunity to air-dry with the scarf intact to help combat frizziness, while keeping my edges smooth. I have a tendency to sweat a lot, but even still my hair usually dries within an hour. If I have to make a quick stop prior to going home, and my do is braided or with twist; I’ll unravel, fluff, and style. Otherwise, I’ll keep my do covered with a beanie or scarf.
I find it to be helpful to wash and condition it once a week to remove excess build up (on occasion, I’ll co-wash during the warmer months due to excessive sweating”>. I make certain to moisturize my curls every night and seal my ends with castor oil. This routine has allowed me to maintain the health and a steady growth rate of my hair. Having an effective regimen, while engaged in sculpting and defining my body has allowed for me to maintain my coils and kinks.
Quick Tip:
If your hair is not long enough to style in a ponytail or bun, don’t fret; attempt a twist or braids bobby pinning them down much like my nighttime routine pictured above. Add a headband or scarf to keep your edges in order.
How do you maintain your hair while getting fit?
Keep up with LaChristin on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Vimeo or her blogI don’t exactly miss my longer hair in itself…but now I’ve got all these Short Hair Problems that I never knew would come my way. My haircut is ruining my life.
Short hair isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. Yeah the fade was cute for a minute, and yeah the color was a nice little change… but this short natural haircut is ruining my life and here’s why: