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One of the most-talked-about topics on NaturallyCurly is ingredients. NaturallyCurly’s community has a deep interest in what is in the hair products they buy, and why it’s there.
We had the opportunity to talk with Dr. Amber Evans, a scientist at BASF Corp responsible for the development of new personal-care ingredient technologies. She earned a Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Sciences (Cosmetic Science focus”> from the University of Cincinnati and a B.S. in Chemistry from North Carolina Agricultural & Technical State University.
While at P&G, her projects included developing formulations for hair color and conditioners as well as skincare products. She has done extensive research on the effect of hard water on the hair. She is a mentor for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, which includes chemists for some of curly girl’s favorite brands.
(All views expressed in this article are Dr. Evans’ own, and do represent the opinions of any company is affiliated with.”>
NC: Are you seeing a lot of innovation when it comes to ingredients for textured-hair products?
Dr. Evans: I am seeing some, though limited, innovation when it comes to ingredients specifically for textured-hair care products .But I am optimistic about future innovation.
All consumers, textured and non-textured, are seeking products that keep their hair beautiful and healthy, yet allow them to have a clean conscience. With so many ingredients already registered in personal care, new ingredient innovation will be driven in part by the replacement of existing ingredients with more natural, sustainable and safer alternatives.
This common interest coupled with advances in textured-hair research, customer demand and greater industry awareness will lead to more opportunity for the inclusion of textured hair in ingredient development and testing.
There is still a lot of opportunity with the plethora of existing ingredients, and I have seen innovative approaches to the formulation of these ingredients for textured hair. This includes natural oils, butters, proteins and naturally-derived polymers.
NC: What are the most exciting things you’re seeing in terms of innovation?
Dr. Evans: The growth of high-performing products based on all or majority naturally-derived ingredients is exciting because some of them are competitive with products that are based on traditional synthetic ingredients (based on consumer reviews”>.
While we’re on the subject of natural ingredients, CBD-related ingredients are definitely a hot topic in the beauty industry right now. It will be interesting to see what how this translates to scalp and hair care.
Some of the other exciting things that I have seen are innovative “out-of-the-box thinking” approaches to hair care and styling. This includes product offerings that are more aligned with consumer practices and convenience, such as a styling product sold in a dual container with both high-hold edge control gel and lighter curl-defining gel to alternative product types such as shampoo/conditioner bars and food-inspired product textures.
In the hair-color space, temporary colorants that deposit fun vibrant colors – even on dark hair – are a favorite. Everything is better in color and texture!
Lastly, tools and implements like the twisting sponge, hair steamers and heatless (tension-based stretchers/rollers”> offer convenience and care/styling options. I recently saw a mechanical tool that actually two-strand twists the hair, and the resulting twist-out was nice!
Image:@sedaoficial
NC: What are the special needs when it comes to products for textured hair?
Dr. Evans: The special needs of textured hair are primarily related to the following:
- Moisture retention
- Conditioning
- Detangling
- Strengthening/protection (This is especially important when textured hair has been subjected to chemical treatments like oxidative dyes because they can compromise the internal and external hair structure.”>
- Definition
- Hold
NC: What differences do you see for different texture types – wavy, curly and coily?
Dr. Evans: From wavy to coily hair, the increasing degree of curl (smaller curl diameter”> and fiber ellipticity impacts various characteristics of the hair, concerns and styling practices. While ingredient technologies are applicable to multiple hair types, levels and combinations of those ingredients must be adjusted to address the needs that are specific to certain textures.
This information has been detailed extensively in the TextureTrends report, so I will keep it be brief here.
With its lower curvature, wavy hair is susceptible to frizz to a lesser extent than curly hair and is more susceptible to being weighed down by products. Moving into the tighter textures, curl definition,,anti-frizz and elongation become more important from an appearance and product standpoint. Lubrication for conditioning, moisturized feel and detangling is also key for curly and coily hair. Natural oils from the scalp are less likely to reach the full fiber of more textured hair due to the curly/coily configuration, and each bend and twist on the fiber is a stress point with a higher chance of breakage.
Research has indicated that stretching, fracture and breakage patterns are different in more textured hair. Other work suggests that the heat from flat irons may travel differently based on hair texture. These types of learnings could lead to improved ingredient technologies and products that more effectively protect hair from breakage and other forms of damage.
NC: How have formulations changed over the past 20 years for textured hair?
Dr. Evans: Over the past 20 years, formulations for textured hair have evolved with considerably more options, improved performance and focus. My top 3 observations include:
- From Straightening to Enhancing:The primary focus has shifted from formulations intended to remove texture from hair to those intended to care for and maintain textured hair in its natural state. Traditional chemical straightening treatments have declined in most markets, and much of the emphasis has been on milder and safer alternatives and conditioning additives that can reduce the potential for damage associated with these products.
- Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients: There has been an upsurge of natural ingredients for all functions (conditioning, styling, scalp care, etc”>, and products have shifted to being formulated with all or much higher levels of majority of natural/biobased/organic ingredients than before. This includes proteins, botanical extracts, seed oils and butters and naturally-derived surfactants. Consumers are more ingredient savvy, preferring efficacious and milder natural alternatives over ingredients like petroleum, mineral oil, some silicones and surfactants with sulfates.
- Greater Variety of Formats: Formulations have shifted from standard formats like gels and sprays to hybrid formats like cream gels and butters with greater specificity for the needs and care/styling practices of textured hair consumers. This includes cleansing conditioners/cowashes, which were certainly not a popular 20 years ago.
Image: Getty
NC: Are you seeing an increased demand from brands looking for new different ingredients/formulations for textured hair? If so, how much of an increase?
Dr. Evans: Yes, there has been a notable increase in brands’ interest in ingredients and formulations for textured hair. Brands are looking to ingredient suppliers for multifunctional ingredients that demonstrate benefits on textured hair, alternatives to now undesirable ingredients like synthetics, sulfates and silicones, and innovative product formats that create unique grooming experiences.
While these are certainly attributes that span the general-hair care market, there is now more awareness and interest in textured hair care. This interest has grown more now that it is apparent that the natural-hair movement is a lifestyle rather than a trend. Inclusion is becoming a market driver, and brands don’t want to miss out.
Q: What would you like to see in the coming years when it comes to offerings from brands, and what types of solutions are BASF offering to these companies?
Dr. Evans: In general, I would like to see brands offering products that are backed by data-driven claims. Consumers want safe, high-quality, multifunctional products with long-lasting effects. The top performance needs for curly and coily types are conditioning, curl definition and anti-shrinkage/elongation. If a product (or system”> could deliver these benefits and somehow activate such that less manipulation (i.e. shingling in small sections”> is needed to achieve the style and maintain length for multiple days without further re-styling, this would be a significant offering.
While that might sound like a lot, textured hair consumers would certainly be content with brands continuing on the current path of providing products with a fair balance of performance, naturality and sustainability.
Companies should leverage the expertise and offerings of ingredient suppliers like BASF for their brand and consumer needs. BASF is a leading ingredient supplier with a comprehensive portfolio of technologies that include surfactants, conditioning and styling polymers, emollients, proteins, bioactives and other care ingredients with use for hair and scalp care. The portfolio boasts several natural and sustainable solutions.
For viewers of FOX 46 Charlotte, meteorologist Britney Hamilton’s short, shiny bob has become her signature look. But when she leaves work, Hamilton takes off her wig to uncover her 3c/4a coils.
“Now, I’d like to wear (my natural hair”> on air,” says Hamilton, a North Carolina native. “I feel like it’s important. My natural hair is a part of me.”
While natural styles is accepted in most work places, that hasn’t necessarily been the case with TV news – especially for those with tighter curl patterns. It is rare to see on-air personalities with Type 4 coils.
Hamilton hopes she soon can combine two of her passions – her natural hair and meteorology.
And in the process, she wants to change attitudes within her industry.
Hamilton was in the eighth grade when Hurricane Katrina hit Louisiana.
“I watched how powerful the storm was and the effects it had on Louisiana. I wanted to learn more about hurricanes.”
While she was interested in meteorology, she didn’t necessarily see it as a career. So although she looked for colleges that offered meteorology, she thought she would major in psychology or political science.
“I took one Poli Sci class and realized it’s not for me,” she says. “I said ‘I’m going to do weather.’”
After graduating from University of North Carolina Charlotte with a bachelor’s degree in meteorology, she got a master’s degree in physics from North Carolina A&T University.
Although she knew she wanted to pursue a career in meteorology, It wasn’t her initial intention to get a job on TV.
“I had self-esteem issues,” says Hamilton. “I’m full figured and you don’t see a lot of black meteorologists.”
After graduation, a friend who in the news business helped encouraged her to put together a demo reel to send to TV stations. Hamilton says her decision to wear a straight wig was the result of conversations she had with people in the industry – an unwritten rule about what’s acceptable for on-air talent. One curly meteorologist told her she had to straighten her own hair because she was told it would create a halo on the green screen.
“I think it’s something everybody believes, but I’m not sure if it’s true,” says Hamilton. “I think minor adjustments can be made. But it’s easier to say ‘We can’t do it.’”
So when she started looking for a job, she decided to wear a straight wig – opting for a short bob.
“That was the look everyone wanted,” she says. “I decided I’d rather wear a wig than have them tell me I had to straighten my hair.”
Fox 46 called, offering her a 30-day freelance position. Within six months she was one of the station’s full-time meteorologists. She enthusiastically jumps in to help out with anchoring and interviews when needed. She feels blessed and grateful to be working in a Top 25 market.
Hamilton says she’s never hidden the fact she’s natural. On her work social media pages, she often posts photos of herself with her natural hair.
Hamilton’s natural journey began six years ago. Although many of her family and friends are natural, Hamilton found relaxed hair to be easier and didn’t think it was for her. An incident with a sew in was the catalyst she needed.
“I went to take (the sew in”> out to wash my hair, and it knotted up and got matted,” says Hamilton. “I couldn’t for the life of me untangle it all. So I took the scissors to my hair and cut it out.”
Once she cut it, she began to experiment with her texture and all of its possibilities. She watched YoutTube tutorials and trying different products. Although she got positive reactions from those close to her, she was still self conscious about her new look.
“I still wasn’t sure what to do with my hair,” she says. “But the more I played with it and started caring for it, the more I embraced it. I thought ‘It’s my natural hair and it’s growing out of my head. It’s me.”
When not working, her go-to styles are braid outs or twists outs. Sometimes, she wears it up in a puff. And occasionally, she does a wash and go. Her Holy Grail products include SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie, Eco Styler Styling Gels – Black Castor & Flaxseed Oil and Argan Oil gels and SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque, which she uses as both a leave-in and deep conditioner.
Six years after going natural, she’s only straightened her hair once. “I don’t want to put my hair through it,” she says. “I want my curls to bounce back.”
Hamilton says she’s ready to debut her natural hair on air, and feels it will send a powerful message .
“Everybody has that bob,” she says. “There’s nothing unique about it. It’s a very “TV” way of thinking. I want to break that.”
Hamilton says people at the station have been supportive, and she has talked with her news director and general manager about forgoing her wig on air. She started sending videos in front of the screen with natural hair.
“Sometimes it takes a little pressure,” she says. “I’m optimistic about it.I just think it’s a good move, and I hope they realize it.”
If she gets approval, she says she doesn’t want to make a big deal about it. She would prefer just to go on, business as usual. But she feels like it will be a monumental moment for her.
“I seriously only wear that wig at work,” she says. “ I call it my work hair. When I don’t have to put it on anymore, I’ll be fully myself.”
She says she hopes by wearing her hair natural she can send a powerful message about acceptance and representation.
“I want women – both young and old – to feel empowered and confident in how they look,” she says. “I want them to think ‘She’s doing this, she’s on TV and she doesn’t have to straighten her hair. She can just be herself, so I can too.’”
Image:@missusa
When Kaliegh Garris confidently walked the stage after winning the Miss Teen USA Sunday night, the coveted crown was placed on her beautiful voluminous ‘fro – a decision that has gained her worldwide praise.
On Thursday night, Miss North Carolina USA Cheslie Kryst, was crowned Miss USA. The 27-year-old lawyer in Charlotte, NC, rocked her long, voluminous curls throughout the competition.
It was incredibly powerful to see two women of color – both women who embrace their natural texture – crowned the winners of two of the top pageants in the country. And for the first time in history, Miss USA, Miss Teen USA, and Miss America are all Black women!
For those with curls and coils, Garris and Kryst made a powerful statement that you don’t need to straighten your natural texture to be accepted.
Image:@missusa
While this isn’t the first time a black woman sported a natural afro in a pageant — in 2017 Miss Jamaica, Davina Bennett, wore her ‘fro in the Miss Universe competition, and Deshauna Barber took her final walk as Miss USA with her natural hair — this was a first for the teen pageant.
“I know what I look like with straight hair, with extensions, and with my curly hair, and I feel more confident and comfortable with my natural hair,” Garris told
Over the years, many pageant contestants with pressure to straighten their natural texture, it was incredibly powerful to see two women confidently and proudly rocking their curls and coils.
Did you tune in? Let us know your thoughts below!
Image: Su Joing Sollers
NaturallyCurly community member and long-time pageant participant Su Joing Sollers – she has won the titles Miss Nebraska USA 2001 and Mrs. D.C- told us she has been one of the few women who wore her hair natural in the many pageants in which she has participated. But even though she initially was insecure about it, she believes it is important to show that there is no one standard of beauty.
“A lot of pageant coaches have pushed toward straight hair,” Sollers said. “But that’s just one thing I will not budge on. If I have a coach that really pushes that, it’s probably the last meeting with that coach. I want to compete as myself, not who they want to turn me into.”
Kryst recently told the Charlotte Observer that strangers have been known to touch her hair and ask if it’s a wig, prompting her to flip her head over to prove it’s all hers.
Both Garris and Kryst are big fans of finger curling their locks. Kryst told the Winston-Salem Journal it can take upwards of three hours to finger-curl each and every lock.
Did you tune in? Let us know your thoughts below! Download our exclusive “Wear Your Crown Proudly” screensaver here.
Monaé Everett’s client list reads like a who’s who of A-list celebrities: Michelle Obama, Serena and Venus Williams, Taraji P. Henson, Mariah Carey, Viola Davis, and Connie Britton. She was one of the artists featured on Season 12 of “Project Runway.”
We spoke with Monae about some of the top trends she’s seeing with curls, coils and waves.
NC: You work with a wide range of celebrities. How many opt for natural styles?
Monae: I can not remember the last celebrity I worked with that had a chemical relaxer, and I love that they are opting out of a process that can be so harmful to the body and hair. Some of my clients still wear their hair straight on occasion, but we are able to achieve these looks with hot tools without compromising their personal and hair health. It’s always exciting when my clients embrace their natural curls and coils, allowing me to play in their texture without using heat.
Image: Getty Images
NC: What are some of the natural hair trends you’ve been seeing on the red carpet?
Monae: Curls crafted into big, textured updos are a red carpet trend that I’ve been loving. It was a pleasure to craft Dominique Fishback’s kinky updo crafted with bantu knots for the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF”> that she wore on the red carpet. I also had the pleasure of creating a textured faux bob on Danai Gurira on the BAFTA red carpet in London, which showcased blown-out classic waves without straightening that embraced her natural texture. I also enjoyed working with Daniella Perkin’s big beautiful curls on the Nickelodeon HALO awards red carpet, which I accented with a braid.
NC: Tell me about some recent shoots you’ve been involved with and how you got different looks?
Monae: Some of my most recent shoots have been my most exciting! I had the chance to style Sonequa Martin-Green for an ESSENCE cover shoot, and I styled Danai Gurira for the British Academy Film Awards (BAFTA”>. Both of them allowed me to have fun playing with their natural texture. I also got to style the singer H.E.R. for Billboard Magazine and Rolling Out,. It’s always fun to craft her signature big, wavy hair.
When I styled Sonequa Martin Green for her cover story with ESSENCE, we played up her kinky and coily hair with a variety of styles and lengths. We created a ballerina bun, a waist length wrap around braid, a kinky stair cased wrapped ponytail that would make Rapunzel jealous, and a spiral braided updo.
On the brand side of things I was featured as a celebrity and editorial stylist at Mizani’s Night of Texture Panel and had the chance to create how-to hair videos for BET with Mielle Organics.
And some of the most fun I have is when I partner with media outlets to showcase my work! I was the first U.S. hairstylist on international hairstyling radio show How To Cut It, and of course I had so much fun being featured on Naturally Curly’s On the Road with Monae: Disney Star Sofia Wylie
Image: Getty Images
NC: Are there any considerations when working with natural hair?
Monae: One of my mantra’s that I often repeat to stylists who are looking to work within the fashion and entertainment world is that hair is hair, and natural hair requires more tender love and care than tough love as it can be more delicate than some stylists assume. I teach online classes through The Monae Life Academy, and one lesson I always teach is how to work smarter, not harder, through the proper planning and techniques that’ll carry you through on-set work as you collaborate with various artistic talents and models.
NC: What attributes do you look for in the products/brands you work with?
Monae: When it comes to working on set, versatility is key, which is why I like products that can work on all hair textures. I find staple products within a brand that I can use on clients, regardless of whether their hair is straight, wavy, curly, or coily/kinky. Additionally, I choose to work with brands who embrace hair diversity and display all hair textures within their ads, social media, and education. I love working with brands that delight in my ability to speak to beauty professionals and consumers alike.
Earlier this year, the city of New York made natural hair discrimination illegal. Last week, a group of city leaders and natural hair icons hosted a conversation about the New York’s new guidelines.
“The forum was an unprecedented opportunity to discuss New York City’s groundbreaking legal guidance designed to protect people with natural hair from discrimination,” says Lurie Daniel-Favors, Esq., General Counsel for the Center for Law and Social Justice at Medgar Evers College, which co-sponsored the event. “Listening to the stories of women and men who’ve experienced discrimination because of their style and texture made it evident why such protection is needed. No one should be barred from work or school or denied access to public accommodations because of rules steeped in centuries of racial bias.”
Image: @dianecbaily
Last week’s panel discussion featured the architects and advisors of New York’s new guidelines. The panel, which included Daniel-Favors, natural hair pioneer Diane Bailey and Brittny-Jade Saunders, the deputy commissioner of strategic initiatives for New York City’s Commission on Human Right. The discussion explored the history of racial bias that prompted the guidance as well as the rights and actions that individuals can take to protect themselves and their families from prejudice based on hair styling or texture.
In February, the New York City Commission on Human Rights (CCHR“> issued new guidelines to target people based on their hair or hairstyle, at work, school or in public spaces, will now be considered racial discrimination. . It is among the first of its kind in the country. Applicable to all, but aimed at eliminating the disparate treatment of Black people, the guidance is part of the CCHR’s larger “While Black” campaign designed to affirm the rights of the city’s African descended population.
Under the new guidelines, the city commission can levy penalties up to $250,000 on defendants that are found in violation of the guidelines and there is no cap on damages. The commission can also force internal policy changes and rehirings at offending institutions. The guidelines specifically mention the right of New Yorkers to maintain their “natural hair, treated or untreated hairstyles such as locs, cornrows, twists, braids, Bantu knots, fades, Afros, and/or the right to keep hair in an uncut or untrimmed state.
Daniel-Favors says she hopes that other municipalities will follow New York’s lead. “Our hope is that residents in other municipalities will follow suit and take steps to implement similar protections.”
The change in law applies to anyone in New York City but is aimed at remedying the disparate treatment of black people; the guidelines specifically mention the right of New Yorkers to maintain their “natural hair, treated or untreated hairstyles such as locs, cornrows, twists, braids, Bantu knots, fades, Afros, and/or the right to keep hair in an uncut or untrimmed state.
Bailey says she hopes the forum will inspire the natural hair community to stand up and speak out against prejudiced and outdated policies.”
“Natural hair is about so much more than just styling,” says Bailey, a master Stylist and Industry who heads up heads EMERGE:Natural Beauty Industry Alliance, the forum’s main sponsor. “It represents culture and heritage, so any rules banning certain styles send the dangerous and dehumanizing message that people with Afro-textured hair are somehow unacceptable. It’s important that New York City declared discrimination against natural hair.
What are your thoughts? Let us hear from you in the comments?
When Su Joing Sollers shops for her hair products at the drugstore, she looks for products that are labeled for curl or texture.
“I limit my shopping based on those two words,” says Sollers, who purchases three to five products each month for her long, 3b curls
Sollers is not alone among textured-haired women. More than 80 percent of women with curly and coily hair say they purchase products specifically for textured hair rather than general market products, according to the 2018 TextureTrends Report from NaturallyCurly. An estimated 65 percent of the U.S. population has curly, coily or wavy hair, with a growing percentage of textured-hair women embracing their natural hair .
The eighth edition of TextureTrends report surveyed 2,000 consumers of all texture types, including consumers with naturally straight hair and those who chemical relax. The report explores many areas of purchasing behavior and product usage, including awareness, spend, retail preferences, and brand loyalty.
The number of textured-haired products for consumers like Sollers has soared, with hundreds of new skus launching every year. But less than 20 percent of the haircare shelf space at most food, drug and mass retailers is dedicated to products for texture, according to Lisa Brown, president of Lolique, a multicultural retail consulting firm.
And along with niche brands like Mielle, CURLS and The Mane Choice –developed specifically for textured-haired women – there has also been a push by general market brands like Head & Shoulders, Tresemme and Pantene to get their textured-hair skus into Texture planograms at retailers. Brown said she recently evaluated 275 new skus this year to add to the 4-foot shelf space for one large chain of drugstores.
In contrast, an average of 16 feet of space is dedicated to general market skus. Brown said it’s a “reverse Break the Walls” phenomenon, referring to the ground-breaking SheaMoisture ad campaign that promoted a more inclusive shopping experience in the beauty aisle rather than one that segregates products by ethnicity. Rather than texture brands being integrated throughout the aisles, brands all are vying for a place within this one textured-hair section.
The most important attribute for consumers when they are choosing where to shop for their haircare products is product selection for their texture, according to the TextureTrends report.
This is a missed opportunity for retailers, says Brown. “If you don’t have the space allocated to it, there’s only so much product you’re going to sell.”
It makes business sense for brands to allocate more space to textured-hair products. Textured-haired consumers – a category that includes those with curly, coily and wavy hair – spend considerably more their straight-haired (naturally straight and those with chemically relaxed hair”> counterparts – an average of $205 a year versus $130 a year, according to the 2018 TextureTrends Report. Among all curl types, curly consumers spend the most – $247 per year. That’s 78 percent more than their straight-haired counterpart. With an average annual spend of $120 a year, those who chemically relax their hair spend the least of all textures.
“I always buy products specifically for texture – and I mean ALWAYS,” says Tina Harmon, who has locs and is the mother of a son with 4c coils. “There’s no other option!”
The looser the texture, the less important it is that a product or brand be aimed at a specific texture. For those with wavy hair, only 45 percent said it was important that the product be geared for texture.
“It doesn’t matter to me whether it’s for texture,” says Debbie Hampe, who has long, wavy hair. “What does matter to me is that the brand be free of animal products, gluten, proteins, aloe, silicones, sulfates and heavy oils.”
TextureTrends is available for purchase here.
Sampling continues to be one of the most powerful drivers for textured-hair consumers to purchase products. Using and liking a sampling is the No. 1 reason respondents purchased a new product, according to the latest release of NaturallyCurly’s TextureTrends report. And when it comes to sampling textured-hair products, curlBOX is a go-to for many women with curly, coily and wavy hair. We spoke with Myleik Teele, founder of curlBOX, about trends she’s seeing in sampling:
NC: You started curlBox seven years ago. What are some of the trends you’re seeing in sampling?
Myleik: A trend that we continue to see in sampling is the importance of “authenticity.” Sampling is not just about shoving a product in a consumers’ hands. It’s about making a genuine effort to connect with their heart and mind. Something else we’ve seen is the desire for “something new.” Even though many have found their “holy grail” products, they are still intrigued by product innovation. More than 70 percent of our sampling is of new products. I believe curlBOX continues to be successful by providing a unique service of content, media and products to a growing audience that is continuing to reflect the ethos of the mainstream culture — beauty comes in all shapes, colors and sizes.
NC: What is the textured hair consumer looking for? What are brands looking to accomplish?
Myleik: Consumers are looking for personalized curation and better experiences. They want to make true connections with brands that understand them and that aren’t in and out or inconsistent. Brands are looking to connect with consumers and need to do so with the long term considered and/or partner with other brands or movements that have consistently been there for their target audience.
NC: How has that changed since curlBOX initially started?
Myleik: We’ve become the catalyst for products and brands entering the hair care category. New brands leverage our trusted community and highly-engaged audience to increase brand awareness and instantly reach into new audience targets. We close a gap that other big brands can’t reach in delivering informational and inspiring content for our core consumer. We don’t just find the new trends — we start them.
NC: When you talk to brands, what advice do you have for them to increase the chances that their sampling program will be a success?
Myleik: You have to get involved. It’s the same as leaving your products on a table at a hair show – you need to be there to answer questions and educate the consumer. The same goes for participating in sampling programs. You should show enthusiasm and answer questions as they are coming across social platforms. Most times the consumer needs more information and who better than you to jump in?
NC: Where do you see sampling going in the future?
Myleik: Sampling will continue to thrive and will be maximized when consumers believe the products have been chosen by a trusted source. Consumers still look forward to and appreciate brand innovation love when they can sample the entire set of products designed to work together vs. your hero product.
Photo by trumzz — Getty Images
Briogeo founder Nancy Twine has always been a problem solver. She was researching scalp issues, which often are caused by problem buildup that can clog the hair follicle. She wanted to find an ingredient that could eliminate that buildup, along with the irritation, flakiness and itchiness that come with it. Binchotan charcoal, she discovered, had unique attributes that can remove buildup without the harsh ingredients.
It was important for me to create hair care products using gentle, effective, and detoxifying ingredients in place of harsh sulfates, which can strip the scalp and hair of hydration and natural oils, says Twine, who has integrated charcoal into Briogeo’s popular and growing Scalp Revival line.
Styling products, sweat, and natural sebum can build up on the scalp and hair overtime leading to clogged hair follicles, limp hair, scalp itchiness and irritation, and even hair loss. Charcoal helps to absorb deep-rooted impurities beyond what a standard shampoo can cleanse away. It is especially good for the scalp because it targets impurities at the root of the hair that can clog the hair follicle and cause scalp issues.
Activated charcoal is a fine black powder made from bone char, coconut shells, peat, petroleum coke, coal, olive pits or sawdust. The charcoal is “activated” by processing it at very high temperatures that changes its internal structure, reducing the size of its pores and increasing its surface area. This results in a charcoal that is more porous than regular charcoal. It has a negative charge, meaning when used in a product it attracts positively charged molecules, as in any toxins or dirt.
Because of its porous, purifying properties, activated charcoal is found in a wide variety of health and beauty products, from face masks to toothpastes. “The National Poison Control Center even encourages parents to keep charcoal powder in the home to help counteract absorption of accidental toxin consumption by children – so the performance of charcoal is real!” Twine says.
Over the past year, it’s become one of the hottest ingredients in haircare products, with such brands as SheaMoisture, Dove, Huetiful and Kenra all launching charcoal haircare collections.
“We saw that charcoal was a trend in skincare products to pull out impurities and detoxify,” says Samantha Georgakopoulos, marketing manager at Inspired Beauty Brands, which recently launched the Hask Charcoal & Citrus Oil collection. “We then thought, ‘How do we bring this ingredient into hair care to provide the same benefits as it does in skincare.’”
Here are some of the top reason for its popularity:
- It’s a powerhouse detoxifier: Activated charcoal is known to act as a magnet which attracts and then removes impurities from your hair and scalp. Activated charcoal can absorb up to 1000 times its weight in impurities, says Ashley LeRoy, senor brand manager for Kenra, which recently introduced its Kenra Platinum and Detox & Deflect System. It is also great post-swimming to get rid of any/all chlorine that’s messed with your hair, its natural texture and its color.
- It pumps up the volume: If you’re carrying around enough dirt and oil, your hair will start to sag and regular shampooing may not be getting it all out. In fact, hair can gain roughly 4 percent of its own weight in build-up from scalp oils, pollution and dry shampoo. Regular shampoos remove surface dirt, but activated charcoal will pull out even more.
- It soothes the scalp: Charcoal soothes itchy, irritated, and flaky scalps and hydrates the scalp to prevent dryness. “We can’t forget to treat our scalp with just as much importance/highlighting specific beauty routines as we do our skin,” says Georgakopoulos.
- It helps products will work better: “Removing buildup from the hair allows for better absorption of key nutrients within hair treatments and enhances the overall shine of the health and hair,” Twine says.
- It’s good for all hair textures: Most charcoal shampoos or treatments can be used on any hair type without drying out strands or messing with color. For best results, you might find that you only need to use charcoal shampoo once a week or maybe even every other week, depending on your hair type and the amount of styling products you use. “Giving your hair and scalp a regular detoxifying cleanse can prevent excessive buildup and the need for everyday shampooing,” Twine says.
Some charcoal products to try
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SheaMoisture Coconut & Activated Charcoal Purifying & Hydrating Shampoo
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SheaMoisture Coconut & Activated Charcoal Purifying & Hydrating In-Shower Styler
Have you tried charcoal products on your hair yet? Let us know what you think of them in the comments.
Disney star Sofia Wylie had a slew of appearances during New York Fashion Week in September. Wylie, an accomplished actress and dancer at a young age, appears in the hit series “Andi Mack” and will appear in her first feature film “Back of the Net” in early 2019.
Celebrity stylist Monae Everett used her many talents to create a range of looks for Wylie during Fashion Week, from big and curly to braided updos. Everett calls it a privilege to work with Wylie, who allows her to change her hair texture from curly to straight and back.
“Her beautiful curly hair is healthy, lush, and thick,” Everett says. “She is an adventurous fashionista who is open to trying different hair looks. I love that she knows her hair is an accessory, and Sofia trusts me to create various hairstyles.“
“In order to be this adventurous with a collective of hairstyles and texture changes, it’s important that your hair be as healthy and moisturized as possible. When straightening the hair, I use multiple heat protectants and tourmaline hot tools that will protect the hair from excessive heat,” says Everett.“We decided to change Sofia’s hair so many times because hair is a great accessory that can alter an entire look, and when well-cared for, it can give you tons of versatility.”
Monae Everett shares how she created Sofia Wylie’s looks.
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1. Good Day New York/Dennis Basso show/Teen Vogue Visit: Side cornrows and big flowing curls.
To achieve this look, she applied the Tree Naturals Honey, Fruit, and Flowers hair milk as a leave-in conditioner to Wylie’s damp hair. “Next, using the Ouidad rake and shake method, I applied the Ouidad Advanced Control Heat & Humidity Gel Stronger Hold and the Curl Immersion Silky Soufflé Setting Crème,” she says. To create the cornrows on the side, she used the Clear Control Pomade to smooth her hairline into the braids. “I used the BabylissPRO diffuser to dry the hair. I added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray,” she says.
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2. Teen Vogue Body Party/Lyft Shoot
A fun cornrow-infused updo created on her curly hair base (from the previous look”>. She created 3 sections. The top section is ear to ear, then added three cornrows in the front of the head aimed toward the high point of the head, gathering the three cornrows into a ponytail. Next, she gathered the last two sections into ponytails. She put the ends of all three ponytails into an elastic, then pinned them down. She added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray. Finally, she says, “I secured the style with Sebastian Reshaper spray.”
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3. Freaky Friday Red Carpet
Wylie surprised everyone by wearing her hair straight. Everett says the best part about having natural hair is switching it up. To create the style she blew dry her hair and used #babyliss Stainless Steel blow dryer. “I added the Shea Radiance leave-in milk and Biolage Thermal Setting Spray and Protectant,” she says. Then she flat-ironed with Oribe Heat Lacquer spray and the BabylissPRO Prima flat iron. “I smoothed the hairline with the BabylissPRO Prima 3000 small flat iron. Natural hair slay in full effect!” she adds.
4. Sofia taking over NYC —Ponytail
“Using the straight hairstyle, we created the ponytail updo. I added a voluminous French braid at the top of the head to light and draw attention to her beautiful cheekbones. I gathered the rest of the hair into a sleek pony using the Ouidad Control paste,” she says. Next Everett created waves in the ponytail using the Hot Tools half inch marcel curling iron. “I secured the base of the ponytail with a metallic strip and attached it to the ponytail. I added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray,” she says. “I secured the style with Sebastian Reshaper spray.”
5. NKD (magazine”> Shoot
She created the last look by working with the ponytail. She tucked the ponytail added a metallic strip around the hair creating a cool shape. She added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray. “I secured the style with Sebastian Reshaper spray,” Everett says.
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About Monae: Monaé Everett’s client list reads like a who’s who of A-list celebrities: Serena and Venus Williams, Taraji P. Henson, Mariah Carey, Viola Davis, Connie Britton. She was one of the artists featured on Season 12 of “Project Runway.”
Everett’s first video showcases her work with Jasmine Cephas Jones to get her curls looking great for her promo shots for her upcoming press tour for her movie “Blindspotting.” Jones made her mark as part of the original cast of Lin-Manuel Miranda’s Tony and Pulitzer Prize-winning musical “Hamilton.” Everett shows off her techniques to get defined, voluminous curls.
What is your identity in addition to being curly?
That was the question posed to a group of influencers at Biolage’s All-Things-Curl Pop-Up Brunch this week in New York. And for a dynamic and influential group of influencers who have made a name for themselves for their curls and coils – a group that included such incredible women as @ohhthatsjustflash, @globalcurls, @arleniax3, @curlsandgracee, @curlsnpearlsss -— it was a tough question to answer.
Curly hair, as we know, can define us, especially if it’s how we make our living.
The event, led by curl stylist and influencer Isabella Vasquez (@CurlPop”>, was equal parts therapy and education, with some amazing Biolage products thrown in. The focus was about how our curls make us feel as well as topics such as the importance of proper scalp health (we felt each other’s scalps!”>, frizz tips (it was a rainy day so this was very timely”> and curly bangs (at least two thirds of the influencers rocked amazing curly bangs!”>
For a group that regularly attends curl events, this one stood out for many of us. We were encouraged to open up and share stories and feelings. More than a few tears were shed.
It was also an opportunity to learn about Biolage’s involvement in 1 % for the Planet – a global movement inspiring businesses and individuals to support environmental solutions through annual membership and everyday actions. 1% for the Planet was started in 2002 by Yvon Chouinard (founder of Patagonia”> and Craig Mathews (founder of Blue Ribbon Flies”>. Both successful entrepreneurs, they recognized the power of collective action to protect the environment. Today, businesses and individuals continue to make the 1% for the Planet commitment, creating greater impact every year.
Biolage Global VP of Marketing, Digital and Education Nour Tayara holds the attendees’ attention.
During the free-flowing conversation, Vasquez interviewed @curly.azahara, Biolage ambassador and one of the top curl influencers in Spain. She recently had returned from a trip to Colombia, where she learned about water conservation – the focus of Biolage’s environmental efforts.
Biolage’s Global VP of Marketing, Digital and Education Nour Tayara was on hand to share the company’s vision and to listen to the conversations. “You can feel the high level of engagement with beauty and hair concerns. For a brand to solve hair needs, understanding products in an empathetic way is key.”
Isabella Vasquez and Michelle Breyer
On Tuesday morning, I was treated to the CurlPop experience, which included a detoxifying cleanse, one of the best scalp massages I’ve ever had, and an amazing cut that literally made my curls pop. She also gave me some tips to getting volume and curl definition, which included scrunching Biolage Curl Defining Elixer into my soaking- wet curls.
So what is my identity in addition to being curly? I’m a storyteller. I’m a mom and wife. I’m a yogi. I’m a friend.
Who are you?
14 of the top brands for curls and coils
One of the top beauty retailers
35 models
The breakout star of VH1’s Love & Hip Hop: Miami
More than 800 influencers and community members
Afro-beat dancers and a reggae soul singer
A Second Line Band and a Miss Universe finalist
Goody bags stuffed with exclusive products
They all combined for a truly magical night September 6 at Gotham Hall during New York Fashion Week. It was a spectacular way to celebrate NaturallyCurly’s 20th anniversary.
Over the course of the 2-hour event, the audience was treated to a show full of drama and surprises, gorgeous one-of-a-kind fashions, and the most amazing textured hairstyles created by some of the world’s top celebrity stylists.
There were jaw-dropping moments throughout the night. Afro-Latina star and co-emcee Amara La Negra kicked off the finale with a sexy performance of two of her songs.
Carol’s Daughter founder Lisa Price —her daughter Becca in tow — performing rap in a presentation featuring mothers and daughters.
Cantu celebrated its hardworking team, with employees showcasing beautiful styles courtesy of the company’s stylist, Maria Antoinette.
Camille Rose Naturals took us on an exotic trip around the world, with models showcasing looks inspired by the Amazonian Rainforest, the South Pacific, and the Middle East.
Creme of Nature celebrated the “Afro Punk Urban Queen,” incorporating edgy street fashion, multicultural hairstyling, and glow-up beauty.
For Mielle Organics, the styles and looks were crafted and inspired by the woman warriors of Wakanda. The message encouraged unity within the textured-hair industry rather than competition and division.
SheaMoisture’s runway presentation had a Jamaican theme, with models dressed in looks that brought the warmth and glow of a tropical day. Davina Bennett, Miss Jamaica and SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Brand Ambassador — the first woman to rock her afro at the Miss Universe pageant — headlined the show.
The Mane Choice brought a storybook to life with a very special fairy tale at this year’s Texture on The Runway, featuring whimsical costumes and models dressed as different goddesses, each representing a different haircare collection.
The power of Texture on the Runway extended beyond the runway, into the social media suite created by ORS Curls Unleashed, complete with virtual runway and an explosion of pink and gold balloons.
CurlTalk TV’s Gerilyn Hayes was front and center, interviewing influencers and VIPs. Earlier, she was outside talking to curlies in the street.
Texture on the Runway ’18 far exceeded my wildest expectations of what I envisioned when we launched the first event in February 2012 at City Winery in New York City. Since its debut, Texture on the Runway thas become one of the most anticipated and talked-about events in the natural hair community. The innovative runway show arose out of my frustration that Fashion Week lacked inclusivity.
Texture on the Runway puts curls, coils, and waves front and center, letting the hair inspire the fashion rather than the other way around. Brands are encouraged to take their interpretations of texture down the runway, whether that be intricate protective styles like braids and twists, cascading curls, or big, luscious ‘fros.
With each show, the creativity has expanded beyond hair and fashion to the entire presentation. Brands have created increasingly ambitious and exciting themes, incorporating entertainment into their presentations.
The true magic of Texture on the Runway was the confidence, creativity, and positive energy of the people who packed Gotham Hall to see the show. The enthusiasm of the crowd was magical, as eager attendees gasped in excitement as each fabulous look sailed down the runway.
It was the most memorable night in NaturallyCurly’s history.
Embedded content: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZScv6BVsBo
When Mary Tamborra showed up at Christo Fifth Avenue Salon in New York for one of the photo shoots for NaturallyCurly’s book, “The Curl Revolution,” curl expert Christo couldn’t wait to put his skills to work on her beautiful 3b ringlets.
She was blessed with thick, springy curls. To help give her hair more shape and reduce some of the bulk, he used his Diametrix technique – an “inner layer sliding cut” done on wet hair.
After cleansing and conditioning her hair, he sectioned it and applied Curlisto Repair Cream as a leave-in moisturizer to protect the hair from breakage and heat styling.
To apply styling product, he uses his Run & Swift method to encourage curl formation. It’s a technique that’s easy to do at home.
The Run & Swift Method
1. Mix together a lotion and a gel. Curlisto uses Curlisto Lotion Plus to create definition, and Curlisto Control II Gel for hold and humidity resistance.
2. Mix this between your hands and run your fingers through each section of hair as if they are a comb, which helps distribute the product equally.
3. Shake each section quickly in a left to right motion.
4. To give lift at the crown, clip the hair with duckbill clips at the root.
5. Diffuse the hair. (Tip: Finish diffusing with your hair upside down to create volume”>
6. To hold curls, finish off with a spritz of Structura Hair Spray.
You may already use a combination of similar steps, or maybe you’ve coined your own curl defining technique. Let us know in the comments section what techniques give you your best curl definition.
You can see more tutorials and gorgeous curly hair inspiration in The Curl Revolution.
Have you tried this method yet? Let us know it works for you in the comments below!
Other curl defining methods:
This article was originally published in 2017 and has been updated.
Image: istock
At Cosmoprof Las Vegas – where beauty brands both small and large showcase their latest products – interest was sky high in CBD (cannabidiol oil”>. Nicknamed “weed beauty” by some, products containing CBD oil are said to have anti-inflammatory and cell regeneration properties as well as the ability to help with conditions like acne, psoriasis, and eczema.
Cannabis in North America has already grown into a multibillion-dollar industry, especially in states where marijuana is now legal. But growth opportunities have spread beyond medicinal and recreational uses to products made from CBD oil.
Not to be confused with hemp seed oil — which is made exclusively from the seeds of industrial hemp plants typically grown for fiber — CBD oil can be extracted from both marijuana and hemp plants and can be applied topically without disrupting psychological or psychomotor functions. Pure CBD oil, a natural source of Omega-3 & 6 essential fatty acids, contains around 470 organic compounds capable of transforming and rejuvenating the skin from the inside out.—
CBD oil is finding its way into a growing number of haircare products. Haircare brand OUAI is launching a CBD oil-infused scalp scrub Aug. 21 in Sephora.
Ecoco, known for its popular Eco Styler gels, launched its Eco Natural Cannabis Sativa collection in July, which includes everything from Cannabis Sativa Oil to Texturizing Salt Spray. The products all contain a blend of CBD oil and other rare essential oils designed to nourish and protect your hair. It can also be used on the body for enhanced moisture and relaxation, says Ecoco business manager Talia Tiram.
“Eco Natural fuses the therapeutic properties of Cannabis oil with modern formulations,” explains Tiram. “Entirely non-psychotropic, CBD boasts anti-inflammatory benefits which can aid in calming stressed skin and minds.”
Entire CBD beauty brands are being launched based on the growing demand for these products. These include companies such as Cannuka, a line of topical products containing CBD and manuka honey, Khus & Khus, a line of skin- and body-care products and Cabbabliss, a line of organic, vegan CBD skincare products.
CBD Skincare Co. creates body bars with names like Black Magic Woman, Harvest Moon, and Purple Haze. It also sells a CBD-based shampoo and conditioner. The combination of sea buckthorn seed oil and CBD enhances microcirculation of the scalp and improves collagen production and stimulates hair growth.
We were lucky enough to meet Kris Brooks coming out of the trendy, private social club Soho House in New York. Brooks, a longtime NaturallyCurly community member, is a New York-based world-touring professional musician and has worked with performers such as Stevie Wonder, John Legend, and Mary J. Blige. Right now, she’s on her second world tour with Sam Smith and we got to see her in action when she came through Austin!
We checked in with her to get an update on her loc journey, here’s her amazing growth check-in, plus motivation to trust the journey.
Hi y’all! I’m back with another hair update! One thing I can say about this hair loc’ing process is that it can feel like nothing is happening for months, and then one day you wake up, and your hair looks completely different!
For a while, I thought I wasn’t making any progress with my hair. I remember a lot of women telling me, “Make sure you take pictures during the process!” Well, let me tell you, without the documentation I really wouldn’t have seen nor understood the amazing transition my hair has made from Day 1 to now!
This journey is highly personal, and unique to each person. As much advice as you get, or as many pictures you look at of other people’s locs you love, your journey will be none other but yours alone. That’s something I embraced early on, and I’m glad I did, because it saved me from a lot of discouragement!
Trust the process and know that your locs will be just as unique as you! Check out my previous posts, and see the dramatic change over the past few months!
Read More:
What Do You Want to Know About Locs?
Why I stopped Using Shea Butter on My Locs
Have any loc questions? Drop them below in the comments.
When you’re co-hosting an event with Amara la Negra, you’d better be prepared to bring it. For the event, Michelle wanted to take her curls to the next level.
We started by scouring the web for hairstyle inspiration, sending photos back and forth – even those that seemed unachievable. We decided on a look that was a little outside her comfort zone – big voluminous curls with toffee and caramel highlights. But when you’re hosting a major show like Texture on the Runway – a show that highlights creativity – you have to be willing to push the limits.
Here are Monae’s step-by-step directions for how she created the look, for anyone who wants to achieve a similar style at home or bring it to their stylist.
- I ordered curly hair extensions from Kurly Klips with a texture very similar to Michelle’s natural texture. Since Michelle and I live on opposite sides of the country, I requested that she send me multiple photos of her hair in natural light. This would would assist me in inferring her natural hair length and hair color.
- Once receiving the extensions I lightened the clip-in hair extensions using the Pintura technique, which works best for curly hair. It allows me to hand paint the hair color where I’d like for it to be visible. I toned the lightened hair to perfect shades of toffee and carmel.
- I clipped in both bundles of extensions, which measured 20″ and 22″, to add fullness and volume. Since all curly hair appears shorter than its stretched length, I wasn’t surprised that this hair was only a little longer than Michelle’s natural hair.
- Once all of the clip ins were applied, I dampened her hair and applied the Ouidad Advanced Climate Control line to begin styling. I started with the Climate Control Leave-in and Detangling Heat Spray followed by Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel. Next, I blow dried the hair with my BabylissPro Titanium Blowdryer.
- Once the hair was dry, I sprayed large sections of hair with the Oribe Soft Laquer Heat Spray. Next, I curled half-inch sections of hair with the BabylissPRO 3/4-inch Marcel Iron.
- Then, I razor-cut the extensions for the best blend with Michelle’s natural curls.
- Last, I used a wide-toothed comb to back-comb the hair and capitalize on the now-achievable volume and fullness of Michelle’s hair.
- I finished the style with the Oribe Superfine hairspray.
Hype Hair was backstage at Texture On the Runway to capture the process behind the scenes, and you can watch the interview to see more!
Embedded content: https://www.facebook.com/hypehair/videos/325263464887848/UzpfSTE1NDkzNTYyODk6MTAyMTc0NTI2OTIxMzk3Njc/?fb_dtsg_ag=AdwUPxgZ-g61BEdZnl5tBAXY5UenT0myvh2iw1Pxms4EpA%3AAdzFfWbA9nrZcsK2hVRw2Iok3qiDaEZpKyp_khXls52zdQ
About Monae: Monaé Everett’s client list reads like a who’s who of A-list celebrities: Serena and Venus Williams, Taraji P. Henson, Mariah Carey, Viola Davis, Connie Britton, H.E.R., Sofia Wylie, and Jess Hilarious. She was one of the artists featured on season 12 of “Project Runway.”
Everett’s first video showcases her work with Jasmine Cephas Jones to get her curls looking great for her promo shots for her upcoming press tour for her movie “Blindspotting.” Jones made her mark as part of the original cast of Lin-Manuel Miranda’s Tony and Pulitzer Prize-winning musical “Hamilton.” Everett shows off her techniques to get defined, voluminous curls.
One of Christo’s fall looks.
Color and curls are hot this season. And the bolder the better, says curl expert Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue.
“A long time ago, people used to be conservative about hair,” Christo says of his fall/winter collection of hairstyles. “I like to see three and four colors on one head.”
Rather than one flat color, that may mean strawberry red mixed with warm browns, auburns and cinnamons or honey with shades of brown and blonde.
He prefers warmer colors for brunettes and blondes, such as reds, browns and golds. He also uses a technology that enables women with dark brown hair to get highlights without bleaching the hair to prevent brassiness and eliminate dryness.
When doing any color, Christo uses his Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque before and after to keep the hair soft and shiny.
“We break that cliché that says don’t color hair too much if you have curly hair. If you do your homework and take care of your hair, you can color hair.”
Christo stresses that color works best with combined with a good haircut, Christo says.
He likes to do longer curls with long angles starting below chin length. He also likes long bangs that can be swept to the side.
“Bangs are not a no no as long as the stylist measures the bangs and they’re long enough to move back,” Christo says.
For medium length hair, he also likes longer layers. He puts in an angle of 68 degrees – he says he measures it – to free up the curls.
“When you do that, it looks like one but the curls are lighter,” he says. “They can move.”
He likes the curly shag for shorter hair – longer layers on top and shorter on the nape.
“That cut looks good for professionals – for people who want their hair to look neat,” he says. “We break that cliché that says don’t color hair too much if you have curly hair. If you do homework and take care of your hair, you can color hair.
Christo opened his first salon in 2002 on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. Christo’s philosophy is to give people with curly hair the freedom and flexibility to style their hair any way they prefer.
He also launched a line of products designed for curly hair and recently added several products to his Curlisto line that can be used with these styles such as Unruly Paste, two levels of Control Gel and Matte Stay.
Ultimately, color and a good cut should be about providing options for people with curly hair, Christo says.
“Changes are not about getting straight hair,” he says, although he says it’s fine if women want to get a blowout once in a while for a change of pace.
You usually think of minerals when you buy vitamins. Yet, these days, you’re just as likely to find them at the makeup counter.
Companies like Bare Escentuals, Iredale Mineral Cosmetics, Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics and GloMinerals now offer a wide range of makeup made from crushed minerals such as mica, titanium dioxide and iron oxides.
These types of makeup offer broad UV protection, they are non-irritating, they are anti-inflammatory and they provide coverage for skin conditions like acne and rosacea.
Mineral-based cosmetics have been around since Cleopatra and her kohl eyeliner. In the 1980s, people used the ocher crushed powder of ‘Indian Earth’ to get a glow.
But they resurfaced in the 1990s as companies rediscovered the benefits.
One of the companies responsible for their renewed popularity is Bare Escentuals, a San Francisco-based company that sells its bareMinerals line of mineral-based cosmetics on QVC as well as Bare Escentuals 18 retail stores, Ulta stores and in many spas. It also uses infomercials to tout its products.
“We’re basically using crushed rocks,” said curlyhead Leslie Blodgett, chief executive of Bare Escentuals. “That’s why it’s so gentle to the skin. It’s like a treatment.”
Blodgett, veteran of the cosmetics industry, went to Bare Escentuals nine years ago worked to improve the existing line.
That meant changing the formula, reshading it, repackaging it and expanding the selection.
“It wasn’t fashion forward in any way,” Blodgett said. “We needed to bring it up to the times. We wanted a makeup that doesn’t feel like you’re wearing makeup,” she said. “We want a makeup that protects you and improves your skin over time.”
In addition to foundations, eye shadows and blushes, the line includes special brushes designed to work with minerals.
Blodgett said sales have doubled over the past year, despite overall flat sales in the cosmetics industry.
Jane Iredale started as a casting director, working in television commercials and movies with such actresses as Lauren Hutton, Jacqueline Smith and Cybill Shepherd. She also had her own production company and produced over 50 programs for PBS and HBO.
Throughout her career, she worked with the best makeup artists in the field. She wanted to create a makeup line that not only looked good but benefited the skin. Mineral-based cosmetics are made without fillers and binders and without chemical dyes and preservatives. She formed Iredale Mineral Cosmetics in 1994.
GloMinerals were developed in 1999 by Robin Silber-McGee and Ange Gerhart. They determined mineral-based makeup provided the best coverage and UV protection and began cultivating the best attributes of innovative product lines.
“Mineral cosmetics still comprise a relatively tiny share of the overall industry. But that could change,” Blodgett said. “Many customers say they can’t go back to traditional makeup.”
Before natural hair influencers, before YouTube, before Facebook, there was NaturallyCurly.
When we started NaturallyCurly in September 1998, we did it because we wanted to make the world a better place for curlies like us. We were just three curly journalists frustrated by a lifetime of living in a straight-haired world that all but ignored us, whether it be the lack of products available for textured hair, the absence of curly models or celebrities, or the dearth of stylists trained in how to work with curls and coils. With NaturallyCurly, we wanted to create a curly haven to empower, inspire, and educate the underserved majority with curls, coils, and waves.
Embedded content: https://bcove.video/2NxDPlyIn the beginning, NaturallyCurly was a hobby. We thought we might sell a few NaturallyCurly t-shirts. But we had the right message at the right time, and curlies found us. Our message resonated, and our community grew quickly, representing all ages, ethnicities, and textures. From the beginning, we have been a truly inclusive community where people can share their stories and get information about how to work with their curls, coils, and waves. We bonded over our shared desire to embrace our texture, even if our journeys were different.
Because consumers were flocking to us, brands and retailers soon followed. Within a year, we were contacted by a major consumer product company launching a line for curly hair. NaturallyCurly, they said, had the largest concentration of curlies of any media platform – both online and in print.
Twenty years ago, we had no idea NaturallyCurly would grow into TextureMedia, a global media powerhouse, reaching more than 16 million people per month, and finding its place at the center of a grassroots movement that changed the way society views texture and facilitating the growth of an industry that serves the curly consumer.
TextureMedia has become one of the top resources for brands and retailers looking to effectively reach this valuable consumer, providing key insights and consulting for product development and positioning, marketing campaigns and merchandising decisions. The company has worked with companies such as L’Oreal, Unilever, Target, Estee Lauder, and Sally Beauty as well as the many homegrown brands that populate this dynamic category.
“Because of the service NaturallyCurly provided us — virtually from day 1 — it gave us an opportunity to co-develop and co-brand the multicultural beauty space,” said Richelieu Dennis, founder and chief experience officer, Sundial Group, the parent company of SheaMoisture. “We, hand-in-hand, transformed this marketplace.”
At its core, NaturallyCurly is our community. We are celebrating 20 years because of you. You have shared your advice, your stories, and your product and stylist recommendations. You have visited regularly and told your friends about us. You have started your own products for curly and coily hair. You have launched your own blogs and YouTube channels to celebrate texture.
The world for textured-haired women is a much different place today because of all of you.
