Search Results: Michelle Breyer
You should definitely deep condition your hair over the winter months.
That’s why stylists say deep conditioning is a must for curlyheads during the winter months.
‘Right now, you should be slathering on the deep conditioner if you have curly hair,’ says Richard Marin, spokesman for Salon Selectives, who has worked on the heads of such celebrities as Britney Spears and Jennifer Aniston as his clients. ‘Summer and winter are the harshest periods on the hair, especially curly hair.’Deep conditioners generally differ from everyday conditioners in consistency and application.
Deep conditioners tend to be thicker, sticking to the hair rather than dripping off. They often contain more oils and lanolin. They may use words like ‘mask’ or ‘treatment.’ ‘Look for products that say ‘moisturizing,” Marin says.
While an everyday conditioner can be rinsed out immediately, most deep conditioners should stay on the hair longer — sometimes as long as half an hour. ‘You should keep it on the hair five to 10 minutes, at least,’ says Cheri McMaster, senior scientist for Pantene.
Many deep conditioning products are designed to be used with heat, which helps the conditioner penetrate the hair shaft.
Rowena Cutruzzola, national technical educational director for Toni & Guy, recommends putting a hot turban over the deep conditioner. She takes a face towel, runs it under a faucet, wrings it out and sticks it in the microwave for a minute. After making sure it’s not too hot, she wraps the towel around the head.
‘The heat expands the hair shaft and allows the conditioner to soak into it,’ Cutrozzola says. ‘As it cools, it seals it. The combination of the product and the heat produce instant results on curly hair.’At a salon, a client will be placed under a hair dryer. Some stylists will use a flat iron to get the conditioner into the hair.
Because a deep conditioner can flatten out hair, Marin suggests using it before shampooing.
‘ I go with the basic theory that you should leave it on 10 minutes while in the shower or apply on dry hair before you shower and put a very warm towel on hair,’ Marin says.You don’t need to use a deep conditioner every day, McMaster stresses.
‘Depending on the dryness and coarseness of the curly hair, some women may only need to do it once a month,’ McMaster says. ‘For others, they may need to do it every week.’
Monaé Everett’s client list reads like a who’s who of A-list celebrities: Michelle Obama, Serena and Venus Williams, Taraji P. Henson, Mariah Carey, Viola Davis, Connie Britton. She was one of the artists featured on Season 12 of “Project Runway and won Celebrity Hairstylist of the Year, let’s learn more about her journey and how she got to where she is today.
NaturallyCurly: What made you decide to become a stylist?
Monae: I was always very opinionated about my own hair, and other people’s hairstyles. Other people would say “You shouldn’t judge if you can’t do better.” I took that as a personal challenge, and decided to enroll in cosmetology classes while in high school. I thought it would be exciting and lucrative to style hair while I was studying at my university. Little did I know I would fall in love with the beauty industry and would choose to remain a hairstylist after graduating college.
NaturallyCurly: What made you decide to specialize in texture?
Monae: Since 65 percent of the world has textured hair, I found that most of my clients have wavy, curly and coily hair. In the beginning of my career, many people wanted to find the easy and healthy ways to straighten their hair. Overtime, more and more clients sought guidance in styling and maintaining their natural hair texture.
Once I began focusing on working with celebrities and beauty brands, I learned that many hairstylists lacked the confidence and skill needed to provide textured-hair services to this high-end clientele. Many celebs, just like the everyday woman, want the freedom to style their natural hair and to look as beautiful sexy, and professional as their counterparts. I was happy to step into a position that allows textured styles to take center stage and set the trends.
NaturallyCurly: How would you describe your technique?
Monae: My technique is how I define the curls. I love beautiful hair and I find ways to create beautiful styles while keeping the strands healthy. When I am defining curls, I do the rake & shake technique. I find that this technique ensures each strand is evenly coated with water, moisture and products to produce an equal amount of luster and hold.
NaturallyCurly: How have you honed your technique over the years?
Monae: Over the years, my technique has changed to adapt to understanding how hair can be a political statement on beauty norms and how people are viewing their own individual beauty. I’ve mastered how to accentuate all textures from straight, wavy, curly, or coily texture. I’ve done this through having conversations with my models/clients about their hair and learning quick and painless styling techniques.
NaturallyCurly: You work on a lot of photo shoots, video shoots, etc. How do you create the looks?
Monae: I start by figuring out what the client needs. I then talk to the model about the way she feels best wearing her hair. I make sure that whatever shape I create with the hair is done using products that care for and strengthen her hair at the same time.
NaturallyCurly: You work with a wide variety of textures. What are some of the different considerations when working with looser waves rather than tight coils?
Monae: Many times, with waves, I must focus on creating volume and fullness. If I allow the waves to sit closer to the head, it can look old fashioned and less styled. With coily hair I strive to ensure that the hair isn’t so wide that it takes over the screen or looks separate from the head. In both cases, the hair should accentuate the features of the model’s face without competing for attention in the photo or video.
NaturallyCury: Do you have a favorite textured-hair look you created? If so, what was it?
Monae: I love creating a “beanstalk” ponytails. It’s a great style that draws attention to the texture, fullness, and definition of curly hair.
NaturallyCurly: Do you have a curl crush?
Monae: My current Curl Crush is Yara Shahidi! I was over the moon when given the opportunity to work with her and style those beautiful curls. I am also a huge fan of Daniella Perkins’ curls So it’s always a pleasure when I get to style her ringlets. I can’t wait to get the opportunity to style Teyonah Paris. And of course, Tracee Ellis Ross.
NaturallyCurly: Can you share a few of your favorite curl tips – things curly girl can do at home (clipping a certain way, styling a certain way, scrunching, etc.”>
Monae:
- When drying curly hair, many times I use a heat sock on my blow dryer. The heat sock is even less invasive than a diffuser, if you happen to touch curls with the heat sock it’s less likely to frizz.
- Since I love voluminous hair, I always use a blow dryer to lift the root of the curls at the crown. It gives a shuttle amount of lift.
NaturallyCurly: A lot of you styles involve using heat. What are your tips to protect hair from heat damage?
Monae: I use heat on many of my clients as a method to speed of the drying process and alter their curl pattern for the desired look. Every product that I use on the hair before thermal styling must have a thermal protectant. I layer thermal protectants because the hair’s health is the most important aspect of styling. I also avoid blow drying the hair completely straight if I am going to curl the hair.
NaturallyCurly: Who are some of the stylists who inspire you most?
Monae: My fellow hairstylist inspirations include Tippi Shorter, Ursula Stephen, Greggory Patterson, Micheal Dueñas, Tymothe Wallace, Michelle O’Connor, Sharon Blain, oh so many more. I’m really excited about where hairstyling is going and the popularity and camaraderie among hair stylists.
Image: Getty
Your curls look amazing on wash day; they’re bouncy, shiny and defined. But how do you get 2nd, 3rd, 4th and even 5thDay curls? It’s one of the biggest challenges for us curly girls.
But armed with the right product and some tried-and-true techniques, it can be quick and easy to revive your curls without hopping back in the shower.
The new Curl Keeper Refresh Next Day Styling Spray from Curly Hair Solutions – the brand that brought us Editors’ Choice Hall of Fame frizz fighter Curl Keeper Original– Curl Keeper Refresh is a silicone-free, water-based miracle product loaded with curl-loving ingredients such as aloe, chamomile and calendula to transform flatty frizzy curls into fresh, defined, voluminous ringlets in five minutes.
Using Curl Keeper Refresh, here are some of the top tried-and-true techniques for reactivating your curls:
- Sleep with your hair in a satin bonnet or a satin pillowcase to reduce friction.
- Spray on Curl Keeper Refresh and flip hair forward and spray over curls. Lightly scrunch curls upwards. Allow hair to dry.
Curl Keeper Refresh is the latest invention from veteran Canadian hairdresser, who became obsessed with curls after giving a client a bad haircut. He made it his mission to figure out how to work with curly hair. He has spent more than two decades studying how curly hair looks when it’s wet and dry, how it shrinks and what makes it frizz. He uses The Curly Hair Institute, his Toronto salon, as a living laboratory for product development, finding out what his clients need and tweaking his formulas until they’re the best they can be.
Knowing that his clients needed a curl refresher, Torch worked hard to create the perfect formula. He wanted to offer something that superior to any other curl refresher on the market – a product that would make life easier for curly girls. The mix of ingredients in Curl Keeper Refresh revitalizes curls while offering hold to lock them in. It also neutralizes odor – a key benefit for curlies who like to work out.
Torch even put extra thought into the trigger and how it dispenses the product into the hair. The “mini trigger” is a step above a pump spray creates a fine-mist spray that distributes better.The unique formula of Curl Keeper Refresh reactivates with water, so simply re-wetting frizzy areas with wet hands can get you many fantastic frizz-free days between shampoos.
Curl Keeper Refresh is available in the 8-ounce size as well as a 3.4 travel size to toss into your suitcase, gym bag or purse.
“It’s really a lifestyle product that is easy and quick to use with multiple benefits,” says Torch.
This post is sponsored by Curly Hair Solutions.
Image:Christo Fifth Avenue Salon
Walk into Christo Fifth Avenue Salon on any day of the week and you’re likely to see a cast member from a Broadway show, a fashion model of a Wall Street maven. Dubbed “The King of Curls” by The Wall Street Journal, Christo (he goes by his first name only”> and his 17-year-old salon in the heart of New York City have gained a global reputation. Curlisto, the curl products he developed, have become a holy grail for many curly girls.
NaturallyCurly: What made you decide to become a stylist?
Christo: I was 11 years old when I told my dad I want to be like my uncle, who was a hair stylist in Cyprus in the capital Lefkosia. I would go to school sometimes, and most days I would skip just to be at the salon. The salon was my life and by the time I was 14 years old, I was a full-blown stylist. My uncle was taking me everywhere with him. He also was very tough with me, but he wanted to make me one of the best. By the time I was 16 years old, he took me to London to meet “his friend” as he called him. I didn’t know who it was, but it turned out to be Vidal Sassoon himself. Vidal was teaching some workshops, and I was one of the lucky students in this private class as part of a selected few trained to be the best today.
NaturallyCurly: Why did you decide to specialize in texture?
Christo: Being a Greek Cypriot influenced me. I grew up with curly hair myself and styled it like Bon Jovi. I think curly hair is its own specialty, and you must love it and be passionate about it. I grew up with curly hair myself and styled it like Bon Jovi.
Image:Christo Fifth Avenue Salon
NaturallyCurly:Do you cut hair wet rather than dry?
Christo: Christo Fifth Avenue is our curly hair salon, and we only cut the hair wet. I developed a texturizing technique called Diametrix. The hair is divided into 12 equal sections, which allows us to visualize every texture on the clients head of hair. This allows us to deliver the maximum results for their head of curls. The second part of Diametrix is diagonal angles, which is a sliding type of cutting technique.
This technique helps avoid that shelf type look that you see a lot on the streets, and the cut gives you the advantage to wear your hair the way it makes you feel confident and sexy. You wouldn’t want to wear the same suit every day, and the hair is you No. 1 accessory.
NaturallyCurly: What are some ways to protect your hair when you want to straighten your hair?
Christo: We teach all of our clients to keep their curls healthy by doing their own deep treatments at home. Then you need to have the correct thermal protective product that protect hair from heat tools. I also tell clients the straight option is there, but definitely don’t abuse it. Wearing your hair every other week won’t damage it, but if you do it on a daily basis, will. Let’s be clear on that!
Image:Christo Fifth Avenue Salon
NaturallyCurly: You work with a lot of curly women who work in professions such as banking and law. How do you help them choose the style that will fit them best personally and professionally?
Christo: As a curly hair salon in New York, I design styles for those are in a professional corporate field I help them stand out in the right way. that they like to stand but use it the right way.
I always have about a 15 to 20-minute chat with them to go over everything involved in their daily lifestyle. This helps me find them the style that fits them best. My clients look up to me not only for their hair but terms of their overall sense of style. It makes me feel good to help them achieve their goals and seeing them succeed.
NaturallyCurly: Can you share some of the unique considerations you have when working with celebrities?
Christo: We have celebs that come here every week or we go to them. Celebrities like any client expect to be treated with respect and confidentiality. I never ask them to do anything for me like take pics or post on social media unless they offer. More importantly I treat them the same as I treat the rest of my clients and they love that and definitely appreciate the discretion.
Image:Christo Fifth Avenue Salon
NaturallyCurly: You work with a wide variety of textures. What are some of the different considerations when working with looser waves rather than tight coils?
Christo: Every individual curl is different in textured hair and each curl has to be treated one by one. I use my judgment as a professional and expert with curls. The Diametrix Technique does give us the leverage to deal with every texture, but you must know and be trained to use it correctly. No one can cut curls without proper education. It’s like everything else in life and those that Pretend they know can cause a lot of damage. The women with curly hair and I see that all the time because I’m fixing bad haircuts. So please if you would like to specialize get the appropriate training.
NaturallyCurly: What are the biggest mistakes that curly girls make when working with their hair?
Christo: First, stop believing everything you read. A lot of people have opinions out there especially on social media, magazines, etc. Most of the time they have no clue what is good or bad for your curls. Do not put something on your curls because it is trending or heavily marketed. Please stay away from hair oils! It causes one of the biggest problems suffocating the follicle.
Also, stay away from heavy waxes or silicones which creates build up. It’s better to get a free consultation which we provide for anyone visiting the salon to get an idea about what will be best for their curls. Don’t shampoo more than 2 times or once a week but please do shampoo to avoid build up from the dirty environment we live in.
Image:Christo Fifth Avenue Salon
NaturallyCurly: Can you share a few of your favorite curl tips – things curly girl can do at home (clipping a certain way, styling a certain way, scrunching, etc.”>
Christo: Curly hair roots are all connected so it’s best to style on wet hair. Section, section, section, and more sections and you will get amazing movement. Then, use duck bill clips to lift root curls while air drying or defusing. Do not touch curls until at least 70% dry and always use a finisher to make your style last. Twist in a french twist while you sleep so the next day will be a simple touch up. You could use some paste or pomade to protect your style this way. Also , use a microfiber towel which is better for curls so it doesn’t deplete all moisture from the curls.
See my videos on christonyc.com on how to do easy styles for your curls!
NaturallyCurly:Do you have a stylist who really inspires you?
Christo: Yes, so many! Vidal sassoon, Alexandre de Paris, Robert Cromean, Paul Mitchell and many more. You never stop learning and watching whether from icons or young stylist. That train of inspiration comes from every talent and you have to make your pick and level of influence.
Many call Leysa Carillo Queen of Colorful Curls. Her IG feedis filled with a kaleidoscope of curls and coils. The Las Vegas-based stylist is known for creating beautiful blondes, vibrant colors and incredible curly cuts, gaining her worldwide attention and numerous industry awards. Stylists flock to her classes to learn her innovative techniques.
NaturallyCurly was thrilled to chat with Leysa about her unique approach to coloring and cutting curls:
NaturallyCurly: What made you decide to become a stylist?
Leysa: I grew up as a professional dancer. That allowed me to perform in shows all around the world, which led me to Las Vegas. I was in love with dancing, performing, acting and modeling, but wanted to try something else in life. I became a hairstylist by accident. Cosmetology school was cheaper than college so that’s what I did. I never thought it would be what it’s become for me.
NaturallyCurly: What made you decide to specialize in texture?
Leysa:On my birthday ten years ago I walked into three salons looking to get my hair done. Every single one turned me away because the of the texture of my hair. I felt different, less, sad.
So I make a promise that after beauty school, I wouldn’t make my clients feel that way. I saw the lack of knowledge in the beauty industry about textured hair and heard similar stories to mine from so many curly clients. I wanted to help change that.
NaturallyCurly: How did you become a curl color specialist?
Leysa: Again, I wanted to be able to service people with textured hair just the same as straight-haired clients, and that included coloring. When I first starting out, I took a lot of education classes and wondered why the techniques being shown weren’t translating the same on my curly-haired clients, I would practice on models and my own hair to better understand how to treat curls until I felt comfortable doing it on paying clients.
I want everybody to be able to enjoy getting fun colors and feel good about their hair and natural texture.
NaturallyCurly: What makes curly hair unique when it comes to color?
Leysa: The unique part of coloring curly hair is that every curl type moves differently. So you have to customize the color placement around that. Some curl types grow straight out of the head and have less movement, while others move more like straight hair.
My technique is based on designing a unique look for everyone individually in a way that you’re going to walk out of the salon with your own identity and expression.
NaturallyCurly: What are the Do’s and Don’ts of coloring curly hair?
Leysa: You do need to do a detailed consultation to understand the client’s hair history, lifestyle and what products they’re using. You need to make sure the hair is healthy to start with. I never perform color on unhealthy hair.
I always look at a client’s porosity because that will affect the color service. I always balance a client’s porosity before I color the hair.
When a client wears her hair curly, I never straighten the hair to do color. I also never use heavy oils because it creates a coating on the hair and can affect the color processing.
I never use anything higher than a 20 Volume developer for color process. The hair dye developer lifts the cuticle of your hair just enough for color to get in or out of the hair.
NaturallyCurly: Can you share more about your coloring technique and what makes it unique?
Leysa: I believe hair your can be any color of the rainbow. Youcan be as blonde as you want if your hair meets the requirements.
My color technique is based on a balayage look using foils. inside the foil I use three colors to create a seamless blend that results in extremely beautiful hair for up to six month. The technique gives you this longevity.
NaturallyCurly: What is the secret when it comes to lifting color out of curly hair?
Leysa: I have a lot of secrets, but my biggest secret is that I say “no” a lot. I will never color curls that are not ready for it. Prepping the hair and getting it healthy before color is more important than any technique.
NaturallyCurly:What products do you recommend for caring for colored-treated curls and maintaining healthy hair? Color safe shampoos and conditioners?
Leysa:First of all, stay away from pools and sun exposure. Also, no hot showers.
Alternate between color-safe, sulfate-free shampoos and cleansing conditioners on your wash days. When using conditioners, make sure to apply it evenly in small sections in order to thoroughly saturate the hair. Let it sit on the hair before you rinse.
A hydrating mask is my go-to product to use with every wash, leving it on for a minimum of 10 minutes or overnight.
NaturallyCurly: What are the steps to recovering damaged hair from bleach, heat or permanent hair color?
Leysa: A hair Cut is the only solution for damage from heat, bleach or color. Sometimes a protein/hydration treatment can help with damage. But in my professional opinion, when the hair cuticle and cortex is damaged, hair strength is gone and won’t come back, no matter what treatment you use. A cuticle without elasticity can’t retain anything.
NaturallyCurly: How should clients prepare curly hair before a color appointment?
Leysa: Always do a proper consultation with the hairstylist beforehand to talk about you’re wanting and to determine if that is realistic. (Bring a lot of photos to show what you’re looking for”>. You may need to do a detox treatment to eliminate buildup.
NaturallyCurly: Who are the stylists that inspire you?
Leysa: @sylvestre_finold @xpresioncreativos @trevorsorbie @ryojiimaizumi
NaturallyCurly: What are your tips for clients who have color-treated hair to keep it from getting damaged and to keep the color looking fresh?
Leysa: First, you need an in-depth consultation that allows your stylist to really understand you and what you’re looking for. This leads to picking the right color for your needs, such as a look with a softer grow out for someone who is lower maintenance or more pastel fashion colors for someone who likes switching up their look often.
Then you must be prescribed the right products for your individual needs. Lastly you need to routinely book trims and treatments between coloring to keep your curls healthy and beautiful.
NaturallyCurly: What is your go-to curl regimen?
Leysa: Instead of a one-size-fits-all approach, I like to customize the curl routine I use for myself and my clients depending on their lifestyle. I believe hormonal shifts, climate, color history and age all can affect what regimen is best for a person.
My current routine is a good balance between moisture and protein. Maintaining a clean scalp is very important to have healthy growth. I stay away from any products with heavy oils or that would cause extreme buildup, and alternate between shampoo and cleansing conditioner to make sure I don’t strip natural oils. Instead of traditional conditioners, my preference is hydrating masks to give extra moisture, especially because I am blonde and live in a dry climate.
I also believe staying hydrated is necessary to maintain healthy curls and drink a lot of water. This is especially important if you are blonde or have fashion colors.
NaturallyCurly: What questions do you get asked most often by your clients?
Leysa: I think the questions I get most often are “How should I be styling my hair? “How can I achieve this color without damaging my curls?” and “How can I bring back my curls after color/heat damage?”
If you’re a curly in Texas, chances are, you’ve heard of April Kayganich based in Austin. And chances are, if you tried to get an appointment, you had to wait six months to get one. She’s that good.
She took time out of her busy schedule – and planning her wedding – to answer NaturallyCurly’s questions.
NC: How did you get started in the beauty industry?
April: It all began when I started cutting my hair at 10 years old because I was terrified to have anyone touch my hair. I had the option to go to Cosmetology school in high school, but my father didn’t think that was the best decision for a career. So I went to art school instead, which was another passion of mine. Being in college and sitting behind a computer did not make me feel fulfilled.
I eventually dropped out at the end of my second year and moved back to Detroit from Los Angeles where I was in school. I found a job in the restaurant Industry and vowed to myself that I would put myself through hair school. I moved back to Detroit when I was almost 20, but didn’t get to cosmetology school until I was 26.
It took working and saving up money, moving to Texas at 23 and being at my lowest point emotionally to get me to that point. I wanted to make sure I was happy and that what I did was something I loved. Fast forward and it has been six years of me doing hair as a licensed professional, and I can’t see it any other way.
NC: What made you want to be a curly hair expert?
April: I wanted to be a curly expert because of what I went through when I was a child. Luckily, my mother knew how to take care of my hair. But when I got older, around middle school age, I noticed that no one else had curly hair at my school. I noticed that when we would go to the store, I would want products to control my curls and define them, but there was nothing. There was always that tiny section hidden amongst the “hair products” that was labeled “ethnic hair care.”
Let’s be clear: you can be any color and have curls, so that always confused me and made me upset. I am half African-American and half Serbian-Greek, and I inherited hair from my parents that I couldn’t appreciate until I was older. I was scared to go into any salon, so I started cutting my hair myself. From there, I would help my cousins pick out hair products and I would trim or shape my friends’ hair as well as any family members.
I want to be able to be a role model for anyone out there who is afraid to rock her curls because I didn’t have that when I was younger. I want to make sure that I can educate people so they can feel confident and know how to style their hair in a way that works for them. I don’t ever want anyone to feel alone because of their hair. I am here to change that.
NC: How have you honed your skills?
April: From Day 1, with anything I do, I always want to learn everything about it that I can, and I want to be the best. I am such a Virgo (if astrology is your thing. But I have worked long hours, taken so many classes, experimented on mannequins, connected with other stylists, taken time to draw and paint, which really helps my visualization skills. Most important, I have never stopped learning. This industry is constantly changing and that is why I want to be a part of that.
NC: What do you think is unique about your technique?
April: When I am doing color or cutting curls, I look at every single curl pattern on the head so that I am making them all work together. My background is in Sassoon, which is very mathematical. I love it because I can look at someone and see the haircut in my head.
How I cut the actual curl is different than most people I have seen and I don’t cut every curl the same. I also don’t like to style curls so they are “perfect.” I think curls should have a little frizz and look lived in. To me, that is real life. I don’t see many stylists out there doing that.
I work on a client’s hair, I talk extensively with them before the appointment to make sure we are on the same page.
NC: What inspires you to elevate your craft?
April: Both my clients and my personal goals, but mostly my clients because I wouldn’t be here without them and I want to always give them something fresh. I want to stay up to date on trends so I can put my own spin on their cut and color, be knowledgeable about techniques, know the latest terms and be able to create a look that is suitable for them while still being modern and unique.
I am also motivated by others who share their work on social media. It is so inspiring to see other stylists building their brands and putting their mark on the industry, and that encourages me to keep striving to be better than I was the day before.
NC: Who are some of the stylists that inspire you most?
April: There are so many! But if I had to pick, definitely Mona Baltazar because she is a true artist with texture and curls, Shai Amiel owner of Capella Salon, Haiya and the amazing Leysa Carrillo, whose color and cuts on curls are absolute MAGIC!
NC: What are your top curly hair tips?
April: Water! Your hair needs water. Make sure your curls are soaking wet before applying product. Stay away from towels, especially non-microfiber towels. And make sure to preserve your hair overnight by putting your hair in a pineapple with a silk scarf.
NC: What are you the CG questions/concerns you get the most from clients?
April: There are two questions/concerns that I hear all of the time: “How do I get more volume?” and “I want more curl definition.” Both are achieved by making sure you apply products correctly and that you are picking appropriate products for your hair type.
NC: What are your top techniques or tips that make a difference?
April: My No. 1 tip is to pick products that work best for your texture, not your curl type! Texture is the base of everything. (Find out your texture with NaturallyCurly’s Texture Quiz“>
Another tip that makes a huge difference is to be patient when you are styling/diffusing your hair. You have to make sure those dryers are on a low speed and a low heat when diffusing to avoid frizzy curls.
NC: Do you have a story about a curl transformation with a client?
April: One of my favorite things is to bring out a client’s “hidden” curl. The curl may be hidden because the hair is dehydrated, because they don’t know how to style the hair or because of damage from relaxer, I love being able to show people what their hair’s potential is.
My client Kristen came to me with almost all of her hair damaged from a relaxer. I had her come in every three months to cut off the straight ends, little by little, because she wasn’t ready for a big chop. By the time we got to the third – nine months in – she looked at me, gently grabbed my arm and said “Let’s just do it. I trust you.”
We decided if it got to be too much cutting, or the length seemed scary, she would let me know and we would stop. Well, we both were so happy to see these amazing curls peeking out! I think out of every transformation I have done, this one sticks with me the most.
Embracing your curls is more than people think. It is about self-acceptance. It is about saying “I am okay with me and how my hair is and I don’t care what society thinks.”
Some people call curly hair “unprofessional”, or “wild” or “messy.” But it isn’t any of those words. It is beautiful, period. It is strength, bravery and confidence.
Seven years ago, actress Michelle Hurd landed a role for a 7-story arc on “90210,” playing the mother of one of the main characters. She was driving home from the set after the first day of shooting – wearing her hair big and curly – when she got a call from the show’s producer.
“He said, ‘We love you, but our research says that for a woman of color to be credible as a business owner, you have to straighten your hair,’” she recalls. “I was shocked. How do you respond to that?”
Being under contract, Hurd had no choice but to straighten her curls. But she told her manager that for future roles, she wanted a say in how she wore her hair. It wasn’t the last time she would straighten her hair for a role – she spent more than 2 hours a day having her hair straightened for her role on “Daredevil” – but Hurd has become becoming increasingly confident in standing up for her curls.
“I’ve gotten really stubborn” says Hurd.
For more than three decades, Hurd’s curls have been one of her defining features, whether playing NYPD Detective Monique Jeffries in the first and second season of the television series Law & Order: Special Victims Unit, Renee Grover on “Hawaii Five-0” or Shepherd on “Blindspot.” She stars with Patrick Stewart appears this fall in “Star Trek: Picard.”
Hurd is especially passionate about her upcoming role in the movie “Bad Hair” – a “Get Out” style horror satire by director Justin Simien of “Dear White People” starring Hurd, Laverne Cox, Judith Scott and Vanessa Williams that puts the emotionally charged topic of women of color and their hair front and center.
“When I saw the script, I said “I need to be in this film,’” says Hurd. “I need to be a part of making that statement.”
The movie is an unvarnished look at women of color and their obsession with straight hair. Set in the late ‘80s – Hurd loved the wardrobe of jumpsuits and polyester dresses with padded shoulders – It follows an ambitious young woman who gets a weave in order to be accepted in music television. She discovers her new hair may have a mind of its own.
“It really goes to a place where it asks, at what cost are you willing to have straight hair,” says Hurd who plays “Auntie Maxine.” I’m really interested to see how our community takes it. Some people will be really offended and upset.”
Hurd’s hair has been a crucial part of her own life’s plot.
The daughter of a white German-Irish mother and a black Jamaican-Scottish father, 52-year-old Hurd was the youngest of three daughters. They all had varying degrees of texture. At that time, Farrah Fawcett was the standard of beauty.
“I didn’t have anyone saying that curly hair is pretty,” she says. “
Although she had a brief stint as a receptionist to support herself through college – “I sucked so bad they called and said’ Don’t send her out here again.’” – she has spent her entire career as an actress on stage and screen.
Initially, she worked in commercials. “There weren’t a lot of acting jobs for curly, beige girls like me.’ She recalls landing a campaign for Maxi Pads where she wore her hair curly.
“When it aired, I had so many curly girls of color thanking me for representing,” she says.
It wasn’t until she started getting TV roles that she started getting comments about her curly hair – requests to pull it back or straighten it.
“There were a lot of hair issues,” she recalls. “My agents got calls asking ‘Can Michelle do something different with her hair?’ I knew that meant straightening it, which seemed ridiculous to me. I’m sure there were roles I didn’t get – roles that went to another actress with the ‘more accepted’ look.”
Hurd says she has come to terms with the fact that there are people in her industry who just don’t get curls, and that’s okay.
“If I’m consistent and true to myself, and if I’m doing my best work as an actress, then I’m fine,” she says. “I decided, I’m going to own my curls and I’m going to be proud of them.”
She concedes that there have been days when she’s tired of her curls and has wanted to cut them all off. But her hard -fought mane is now a key part of her, and she knows it sends a powerful message to the entertainment industry as well as society.
“If we buy into this homogenized ideal beauty, we undercut our strengths,” says Hurd. “Our strengths are in our individuality, our uniqueness. I want little munchkins as well as adults to be comfortable and proud of their hair. I want them to own their hair. I want them to know it’s beautiful and amazing.”
For viewers of FOX 46 Charlotte, meteorologist Britney Hamilton’s short, shiny bob has become her signature look. But when she leaves work, Hamilton takes off her wig to uncover her 3c/4a coils.
“Now, I’d like to wear (my natural hair”> on air,” says Hamilton, a North Carolina native. “I feel like it’s important. My natural hair is a part of me.”
While natural styles is accepted in most work places, that hasn’t necessarily been the case with TV news – especially for those with tighter curl patterns. It is rare to see on-air personalities with Type 4 coils.
Hamilton hopes she soon can combine two of her passions – her natural hair and meteorology.
And in the process, she wants to change attitudes within her industry.
Hamilton was in the eighth grade when Hurricane Katrina hit Louisiana.
“I watched how powerful the storm was and the effects it had on Louisiana. I wanted to learn more about hurricanes.”
While she was interested in meteorology, she didn’t necessarily see it as a career. So although she looked for colleges that offered meteorology, she thought she would major in psychology or political science.
“I took one Poli Sci class and realized it’s not for me,” she says. “I said ‘I’m going to do weather.’”
After graduating from University of North Carolina Charlotte with a bachelor’s degree in meteorology, she got a master’s degree in physics from North Carolina A&T University.
Although she knew she wanted to pursue a career in meteorology, It wasn’t her initial intention to get a job on TV.
“I had self-esteem issues,” says Hamilton. “I’m full figured and you don’t see a lot of black meteorologists.”
After graduation, a friend who in the news business helped encouraged her to put together a demo reel to send to TV stations. Hamilton says her decision to wear a straight wig was the result of conversations she had with people in the industry – an unwritten rule about what’s acceptable for on-air talent. One curly meteorologist told her she had to straighten her own hair because she was told it would create a halo on the green screen.
“I think it’s something everybody believes, but I’m not sure if it’s true,” says Hamilton. “I think minor adjustments can be made. But it’s easier to say ‘We can’t do it.’”
So when she started looking for a job, she decided to wear a straight wig – opting for a short bob.
“That was the look everyone wanted,” she says. “I decided I’d rather wear a wig than have them tell me I had to straighten my hair.”
Fox 46 called, offering her a 30-day freelance position. Within six months she was one of the station’s full-time meteorologists. She enthusiastically jumps in to help out with anchoring and interviews when needed. She feels blessed and grateful to be working in a Top 25 market.
Hamilton says she’s never hidden the fact she’s natural. On her work social media pages, she often posts photos of herself with her natural hair.
Hamilton’s natural journey began six years ago. Although many of her family and friends are natural, Hamilton found relaxed hair to be easier and didn’t think it was for her. An incident with a sew in was the catalyst she needed.
“I went to take (the sew in”> out to wash my hair, and it knotted up and got matted,” says Hamilton. “I couldn’t for the life of me untangle it all. So I took the scissors to my hair and cut it out.”
Once she cut it, she began to experiment with her texture and all of its possibilities. She watched YoutTube tutorials and trying different products. Although she got positive reactions from those close to her, she was still self conscious about her new look.
“I still wasn’t sure what to do with my hair,” she says. “But the more I played with it and started caring for it, the more I embraced it. I thought ‘It’s my natural hair and it’s growing out of my head. It’s me.”
When not working, her go-to styles are braid outs or twists outs. Sometimes, she wears it up in a puff. And occasionally, she does a wash and go. Her Holy Grail products include SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie, Eco Styler Styling Gels – Black Castor & Flaxseed Oil and Argan Oil gels and SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Masque, which she uses as both a leave-in and deep conditioner.
Six years after going natural, she’s only straightened her hair once. “I don’t want to put my hair through it,” she says. “I want my curls to bounce back.”
Hamilton says she’s ready to debut her natural hair on air, and feels it will send a powerful message .
“Everybody has that bob,” she says. “There’s nothing unique about it. It’s a very “TV” way of thinking. I want to break that.”
Hamilton says people at the station have been supportive, and she has talked with her news director and general manager about forgoing her wig on air. She started sending videos in front of the screen with natural hair.
“Sometimes it takes a little pressure,” she says. “I’m optimistic about it.I just think it’s a good move, and I hope they realize it.”
If she gets approval, she says she doesn’t want to make a big deal about it. She would prefer just to go on, business as usual. But she feels like it will be a monumental moment for her.
“I seriously only wear that wig at work,” she says. “ I call it my work hair. When I don’t have to put it on anymore, I’ll be fully myself.”
She says she hopes by wearing her hair natural she can send a powerful message about acceptance and representation.
“I want women – both young and old – to feel empowered and confident in how they look,” she says. “I want them to think ‘She’s doing this, she’s on TV and she doesn’t have to straighten her hair. She can just be herself, so I can too.’”
Image:@missusa
When Kaliegh Garris confidently walked the stage after winning the Miss Teen USA Sunday night, the coveted crown was placed on her beautiful voluminous ‘fro – a decision that has gained her worldwide praise.
On Thursday night, Miss North Carolina USA Cheslie Kryst, was crowned Miss USA. The 27-year-old lawyer in Charlotte, NC, rocked her long, voluminous curls throughout the competition.
It was incredibly powerful to see two women of color – both women who embrace their natural texture – crowned the winners of two of the top pageants in the country. And for the first time in history, Miss USA, Miss Teen USA, and Miss America are all Black women!
For those with curls and coils, Garris and Kryst made a powerful statement that you don’t need to straighten your natural texture to be accepted.
Image:@missusa
While this isn’t the first time a black woman sported a natural afro in a pageant — in 2017 Miss Jamaica, Davina Bennett, wore her ‘fro in the Miss Universe competition, and Deshauna Barber took her final walk as Miss USA with her natural hair — this was a first for the teen pageant.
“I know what I look like with straight hair, with extensions, and with my curly hair, and I feel more confident and comfortable with my natural hair,” Garris told
Over the years, many pageant contestants with pressure to straighten their natural texture, it was incredibly powerful to see two women confidently and proudly rocking their curls and coils.
Did you tune in? Let us know your thoughts below!
Image: Su Joing Sollers
NaturallyCurly community member and long-time pageant participant Su Joing Sollers – she has won the titles Miss Nebraska USA 2001 and Mrs. D.C- told us she has been one of the few women who wore her hair natural in the many pageants in which she has participated. But even though she initially was insecure about it, she believes it is important to show that there is no one standard of beauty.
“A lot of pageant coaches have pushed toward straight hair,” Sollers said. “But that’s just one thing I will not budge on. If I have a coach that really pushes that, it’s probably the last meeting with that coach. I want to compete as myself, not who they want to turn me into.”
Kryst recently told the Charlotte Observer that strangers have been known to touch her hair and ask if it’s a wig, prompting her to flip her head over to prove it’s all hers.
Both Garris and Kryst are big fans of finger curling their locks. Kryst told the Winston-Salem Journal it can take upwards of three hours to finger-curl each and every lock.
Did you tune in? Let us know your thoughts below! Download our exclusive “Wear Your Crown Proudly” screensaver here.
When Su Joing Sollers shops for her hair products at the drugstore, she looks for products that are labeled for curl or texture.
“I limit my shopping based on those two words,” says Sollers, who purchases three to five products each month for her long, 3b curls
Sollers is not alone among textured-haired women. More than 80 percent of women with curly and coily hair say they purchase products specifically for textured hair rather than general market products, according to the 2018 TextureTrends Report from NaturallyCurly. An estimated 65 percent of the U.S. population has curly, coily or wavy hair, with a growing percentage of textured-hair women embracing their natural hair .
The eighth edition of TextureTrends report surveyed 2,000 consumers of all texture types, including consumers with naturally straight hair and those who chemical relax. The report explores many areas of purchasing behavior and product usage, including awareness, spend, retail preferences, and brand loyalty.
The number of textured-haired products for consumers like Sollers has soared, with hundreds of new skus launching every year. But less than 20 percent of the haircare shelf space at most food, drug and mass retailers is dedicated to products for texture, according to Lisa Brown, president of Lolique, a multicultural retail consulting firm.
And along with niche brands like Mielle, CURLS and The Mane Choice –developed specifically for textured-haired women – there has also been a push by general market brands like Head & Shoulders, Tresemme and Pantene to get their textured-hair skus into Texture planograms at retailers. Brown said she recently evaluated 275 new skus this year to add to the 4-foot shelf space for one large chain of drugstores.
In contrast, an average of 16 feet of space is dedicated to general market skus. Brown said it’s a “reverse Break the Walls” phenomenon, referring to the ground-breaking SheaMoisture ad campaign that promoted a more inclusive shopping experience in the beauty aisle rather than one that segregates products by ethnicity. Rather than texture brands being integrated throughout the aisles, brands all are vying for a place within this one textured-hair section.
The most important attribute for consumers when they are choosing where to shop for their haircare products is product selection for their texture, according to the TextureTrends report.
This is a missed opportunity for retailers, says Brown. “If you don’t have the space allocated to it, there’s only so much product you’re going to sell.”
It makes business sense for brands to allocate more space to textured-hair products. Textured-haired consumers – a category that includes those with curly, coily and wavy hair – spend considerably more their straight-haired (naturally straight and those with chemically relaxed hair”> counterparts – an average of $205 a year versus $130 a year, according to the 2018 TextureTrends Report. Among all curl types, curly consumers spend the most – $247 per year. That’s 78 percent more than their straight-haired counterpart. With an average annual spend of $120 a year, those who chemically relax their hair spend the least of all textures.
“I always buy products specifically for texture – and I mean ALWAYS,” says Tina Harmon, who has locs and is the mother of a son with 4c coils. “There’s no other option!”
The looser the texture, the less important it is that a product or brand be aimed at a specific texture. For those with wavy hair, only 45 percent said it was important that the product be geared for texture.
“It doesn’t matter to me whether it’s for texture,” says Debbie Hampe, who has long, wavy hair. “What does matter to me is that the brand be free of animal products, gluten, proteins, aloe, silicones, sulfates and heavy oils.”
TextureTrends is available for purchase here.
Photo by trumzz — Getty Images
Briogeo founder Nancy Twine has always been a problem solver. She was researching scalp issues, which often are caused by problem buildup that can clog the hair follicle. She wanted to find an ingredient that could eliminate that buildup, along with the irritation, flakiness and itchiness that come with it. Binchotan charcoal, she discovered, had unique attributes that can remove buildup without the harsh ingredients.
It was important for me to create hair care products using gentle, effective, and detoxifying ingredients in place of harsh sulfates, which can strip the scalp and hair of hydration and natural oils, says Twine, who has integrated charcoal into Briogeo’s popular and growing Scalp Revival line.
Styling products, sweat, and natural sebum can build up on the scalp and hair overtime leading to clogged hair follicles, limp hair, scalp itchiness and irritation, and even hair loss. Charcoal helps to absorb deep-rooted impurities beyond what a standard shampoo can cleanse away. It is especially good for the scalp because it targets impurities at the root of the hair that can clog the hair follicle and cause scalp issues.
Activated charcoal is a fine black powder made from bone char, coconut shells, peat, petroleum coke, coal, olive pits or sawdust. The charcoal is “activated” by processing it at very high temperatures that changes its internal structure, reducing the size of its pores and increasing its surface area. This results in a charcoal that is more porous than regular charcoal. It has a negative charge, meaning when used in a product it attracts positively charged molecules, as in any toxins or dirt.
Because of its porous, purifying properties, activated charcoal is found in a wide variety of health and beauty products, from face masks to toothpastes. “The National Poison Control Center even encourages parents to keep charcoal powder in the home to help counteract absorption of accidental toxin consumption by children – so the performance of charcoal is real!” Twine says.
Over the past year, it’s become one of the hottest ingredients in haircare products, with such brands as SheaMoisture, Dove, Huetiful and Kenra all launching charcoal haircare collections.
“We saw that charcoal was a trend in skincare products to pull out impurities and detoxify,” says Samantha Georgakopoulos, marketing manager at Inspired Beauty Brands, which recently launched the Hask Charcoal & Citrus Oil collection. “We then thought, ‘How do we bring this ingredient into hair care to provide the same benefits as it does in skincare.’”
Here are some of the top reason for its popularity:
- It’s a powerhouse detoxifier: Activated charcoal is known to act as a magnet which attracts and then removes impurities from your hair and scalp. Activated charcoal can absorb up to 1000 times its weight in impurities, says Ashley LeRoy, senor brand manager for Kenra, which recently introduced its Kenra Platinum and Detox & Deflect System. It is also great post-swimming to get rid of any/all chlorine that’s messed with your hair, its natural texture and its color.
- It pumps up the volume: If you’re carrying around enough dirt and oil, your hair will start to sag and regular shampooing may not be getting it all out. In fact, hair can gain roughly 4 percent of its own weight in build-up from scalp oils, pollution and dry shampoo. Regular shampoos remove surface dirt, but activated charcoal will pull out even more.
- It soothes the scalp: Charcoal soothes itchy, irritated, and flaky scalps and hydrates the scalp to prevent dryness. “We can’t forget to treat our scalp with just as much importance/highlighting specific beauty routines as we do our skin,” says Georgakopoulos.
- It helps products will work better: “Removing buildup from the hair allows for better absorption of key nutrients within hair treatments and enhances the overall shine of the health and hair,” Twine says.
- It’s good for all hair textures: Most charcoal shampoos or treatments can be used on any hair type without drying out strands or messing with color. For best results, you might find that you only need to use charcoal shampoo once a week or maybe even every other week, depending on your hair type and the amount of styling products you use. “Giving your hair and scalp a regular detoxifying cleanse can prevent excessive buildup and the need for everyday shampooing,” Twine says.
Some charcoal products to try
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SheaMoisture Coconut & Activated Charcoal Purifying & Hydrating Shampoo
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SheaMoisture Coconut & Activated Charcoal Purifying & Hydrating In-Shower Styler
Have you tried charcoal products on your hair yet? Let us know what you think of them in the comments.
Disney star Sofia Wylie had a slew of appearances during New York Fashion Week in September. Wylie, an accomplished actress and dancer at a young age, appears in the hit series “Andi Mack” and will appear in her first feature film “Back of the Net” in early 2019.
Celebrity stylist Monae Everett used her many talents to create a range of looks for Wylie during Fashion Week, from big and curly to braided updos. Everett calls it a privilege to work with Wylie, who allows her to change her hair texture from curly to straight and back.
“Her beautiful curly hair is healthy, lush, and thick,” Everett says. “She is an adventurous fashionista who is open to trying different hair looks. I love that she knows her hair is an accessory, and Sofia trusts me to create various hairstyles.“
“In order to be this adventurous with a collective of hairstyles and texture changes, it’s important that your hair be as healthy and moisturized as possible. When straightening the hair, I use multiple heat protectants and tourmaline hot tools that will protect the hair from excessive heat,” says Everett.“We decided to change Sofia’s hair so many times because hair is a great accessory that can alter an entire look, and when well-cared for, it can give you tons of versatility.”
Monae Everett shares how she created Sofia Wylie’s looks.
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1. Good Day New York/Dennis Basso show/Teen Vogue Visit: Side cornrows and big flowing curls.
To achieve this look, she applied the Tree Naturals Honey, Fruit, and Flowers hair milk as a leave-in conditioner to Wylie’s damp hair. “Next, using the Ouidad rake and shake method, I applied the Ouidad Advanced Control Heat & Humidity Gel Stronger Hold and the Curl Immersion Silky Soufflé Setting Crème,” she says. To create the cornrows on the side, she used the Clear Control Pomade to smooth her hairline into the braids. “I used the BabylissPRO diffuser to dry the hair. I added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray,” she says.
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2. Teen Vogue Body Party/Lyft Shoot
A fun cornrow-infused updo created on her curly hair base (from the previous look”>. She created 3 sections. The top section is ear to ear, then added three cornrows in the front of the head aimed toward the high point of the head, gathering the three cornrows into a ponytail. Next, she gathered the last two sections into ponytails. She put the ends of all three ponytails into an elastic, then pinned them down. She added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray. Finally, she says, “I secured the style with Sebastian Reshaper spray.”
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3. Freaky Friday Red Carpet
Wylie surprised everyone by wearing her hair straight. Everett says the best part about having natural hair is switching it up. To create the style she blew dry her hair and used #babyliss Stainless Steel blow dryer. “I added the Shea Radiance leave-in milk and Biolage Thermal Setting Spray and Protectant,” she says. Then she flat-ironed with Oribe Heat Lacquer spray and the BabylissPRO Prima flat iron. “I smoothed the hairline with the BabylissPRO Prima 3000 small flat iron. Natural hair slay in full effect!” she adds.
4. Sofia taking over NYC —Ponytail
“Using the straight hairstyle, we created the ponytail updo. I added a voluminous French braid at the top of the head to light and draw attention to her beautiful cheekbones. I gathered the rest of the hair into a sleek pony using the Ouidad Control paste,” she says. Next Everett created waves in the ponytail using the Hot Tools half inch marcel curling iron. “I secured the base of the ponytail with a metallic strip and attached it to the ponytail. I added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray,” she says. “I secured the style with Sebastian Reshaper spray.”
5. NKD (magazine”> Shoot
She created the last look by working with the ponytail. She tucked the ponytail added a metallic strip around the hair creating a cool shape. She added shine to the final look with FHI Brands Rapid Effects Accelerating Instant Shine Spray. “I secured the style with Sebastian Reshaper spray,” Everett says.
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About Monae: Monaé Everett’s client list reads like a who’s who of A-list celebrities: Serena and Venus Williams, Taraji P. Henson, Mariah Carey, Viola Davis, Connie Britton. She was one of the artists featured on Season 12 of “Project Runway.”
Everett’s first video showcases her work with Jasmine Cephas Jones to get her curls looking great for her promo shots for her upcoming press tour for her movie “Blindspotting.” Jones made her mark as part of the original cast of Lin-Manuel Miranda’s Tony and Pulitzer Prize-winning musical “Hamilton.” Everett shows off her techniques to get defined, voluminous curls.
What is your identity in addition to being curly?
That was the question posed to a group of influencers at Biolage’s All-Things-Curl Pop-Up Brunch this week in New York. And for a dynamic and influential group of influencers who have made a name for themselves for their curls and coils – a group that included such incredible women as @ohhthatsjustflash, @globalcurls, @arleniax3, @curlsandgracee, @curlsnpearlsss -— it was a tough question to answer.
Curly hair, as we know, can define us, especially if it’s how we make our living.
The event, led by curl stylist and influencer Isabella Vasquez (@CurlPop”>, was equal parts therapy and education, with some amazing Biolage products thrown in. The focus was about how our curls make us feel as well as topics such as the importance of proper scalp health (we felt each other’s scalps!”>, frizz tips (it was a rainy day so this was very timely”> and curly bangs (at least two thirds of the influencers rocked amazing curly bangs!”>
For a group that regularly attends curl events, this one stood out for many of us. We were encouraged to open up and share stories and feelings. More than a few tears were shed.
It was also an opportunity to learn about Biolage’s involvement in 1 % for the Planet – a global movement inspiring businesses and individuals to support environmental solutions through annual membership and everyday actions. 1% for the Planet was started in 2002 by Yvon Chouinard (founder of Patagonia”> and Craig Mathews (founder of Blue Ribbon Flies”>. Both successful entrepreneurs, they recognized the power of collective action to protect the environment. Today, businesses and individuals continue to make the 1% for the Planet commitment, creating greater impact every year.
Biolage Global VP of Marketing, Digital and Education Nour Tayara holds the attendees’ attention.
During the free-flowing conversation, Vasquez interviewed @curly.azahara, Biolage ambassador and one of the top curl influencers in Spain. She recently had returned from a trip to Colombia, where she learned about water conservation – the focus of Biolage’s environmental efforts.
Biolage’s Global VP of Marketing, Digital and Education Nour Tayara was on hand to share the company’s vision and to listen to the conversations. “You can feel the high level of engagement with beauty and hair concerns. For a brand to solve hair needs, understanding products in an empathetic way is key.”
Isabella Vasquez and Michelle Breyer
On Tuesday morning, I was treated to the CurlPop experience, which included a detoxifying cleanse, one of the best scalp massages I’ve ever had, and an amazing cut that literally made my curls pop. She also gave me some tips to getting volume and curl definition, which included scrunching Biolage Curl Defining Elixer into my soaking- wet curls.
So what is my identity in addition to being curly? I’m a storyteller. I’m a mom and wife. I’m a yogi. I’m a friend.
Who are you?
When Mary Tamborra showed up at Christo Fifth Avenue Salon in New York for one of the photo shoots for NaturallyCurly’s book, “The Curl Revolution,” curl expert Christo couldn’t wait to put his skills to work on her beautiful 3b ringlets.
She was blessed with thick, springy curls. To help give her hair more shape and reduce some of the bulk, he used his Diametrix technique – an “inner layer sliding cut” done on wet hair.
After cleansing and conditioning her hair, he sectioned it and applied Curlisto Repair Cream as a leave-in moisturizer to protect the hair from breakage and heat styling.
To apply styling product, he uses his Run & Swift method to encourage curl formation. It’s a technique that’s easy to do at home.
The Run & Swift Method
1. Mix together a lotion and a gel. Curlisto uses Curlisto Lotion Plus to create definition, and Curlisto Control II Gel for hold and humidity resistance.
2. Mix this between your hands and run your fingers through each section of hair as if they are a comb, which helps distribute the product equally.
3. Shake each section quickly in a left to right motion.
4. To give lift at the crown, clip the hair with duckbill clips at the root.
5. Diffuse the hair. (Tip: Finish diffusing with your hair upside down to create volume”>
6. To hold curls, finish off with a spritz of Structura Hair Spray.
You may already use a combination of similar steps, or maybe you’ve coined your own curl defining technique. Let us know in the comments section what techniques give you your best curl definition.
You can see more tutorials and gorgeous curly hair inspiration in The Curl Revolution.
Have you tried this method yet? Let us know it works for you in the comments below!
Other curl defining methods:
This article was originally published in 2017 and has been updated.
Image: istock
At Cosmoprof Las Vegas – where beauty brands both small and large showcase their latest products – interest was sky high in CBD (cannabidiol oil”>. Nicknamed “weed beauty” by some, products containing CBD oil are said to have anti-inflammatory and cell regeneration properties as well as the ability to help with conditions like acne, psoriasis, and eczema.
Cannabis in North America has already grown into a multibillion-dollar industry, especially in states where marijuana is now legal. But growth opportunities have spread beyond medicinal and recreational uses to products made from CBD oil.
Not to be confused with hemp seed oil — which is made exclusively from the seeds of industrial hemp plants typically grown for fiber — CBD oil can be extracted from both marijuana and hemp plants and can be applied topically without disrupting psychological or psychomotor functions. Pure CBD oil, a natural source of Omega-3 & 6 essential fatty acids, contains around 470 organic compounds capable of transforming and rejuvenating the skin from the inside out.—
CBD oil is finding its way into a growing number of haircare products. Haircare brand OUAI is launching a CBD oil-infused scalp scrub Aug. 21 in Sephora.
Ecoco, known for its popular Eco Styler gels, launched its Eco Natural Cannabis Sativa collection in July, which includes everything from Cannabis Sativa Oil to Texturizing Salt Spray. The products all contain a blend of CBD oil and other rare essential oils designed to nourish and protect your hair. It can also be used on the body for enhanced moisture and relaxation, says Ecoco business manager Talia Tiram.
“Eco Natural fuses the therapeutic properties of Cannabis oil with modern formulations,” explains Tiram. “Entirely non-psychotropic, CBD boasts anti-inflammatory benefits which can aid in calming stressed skin and minds.”
Entire CBD beauty brands are being launched based on the growing demand for these products. These include companies such as Cannuka, a line of topical products containing CBD and manuka honey, Khus & Khus, a line of skin- and body-care products and Cabbabliss, a line of organic, vegan CBD skincare products.
CBD Skincare Co. creates body bars with names like Black Magic Woman, Harvest Moon, and Purple Haze. It also sells a CBD-based shampoo and conditioner. The combination of sea buckthorn seed oil and CBD enhances microcirculation of the scalp and improves collagen production and stimulates hair growth.
I met Mahisha Dellinger 16 years ago when she partnered with NaturallyCurly for the launch of her new line of products for the multi-ethnic consumer.
Having just transitioned to natural hair, she had a hard time finding quality products for women and girls embracing their natural hair textures. She found herself pacing the haircare aisles, unhappy with the heavy greases and texturizers that were developed for ethnic hair. So she decided to create CURLS, leaving her marketing position at Intel and using $25,000 of her own personal savings to hire a cosmetic chemist.
Over the years, I’ve watched as she’s built CURLS into a multimillion-dollar brand, with products now available nationwide in retailers such as Target, Walmart and CVS. The line includes several collections, including the Blueberry Bliss, Cashmere + Caviar, Curly Q’s kids’ line, It’s a Curl infant line and the original product line. As a fellow entrepreneur, I have watched with respect and awe as she’s balanced her growing company with raising four children and writing a book: Against All Odds: From the Projects to the Penthouse.
Now, Dellinger is taking her years of experience to help other female entrepreneurs on the Oprah Winfrey Network’s Mind Your Business with Mahisha TV series, which debuts at 10 p.m. EST Aug. 11th.
In each hour-long episode, Dellinger assists other female entrepreneurs and guides them on how to improve their business. Mind Your Business with Dellinger follows Iyanla: Fix My Life, (9 p.m. ET/PT”> for an all-female led Saturday night lineup on OWN, the No. 1 network on Saturday nights for African-American women. Dellinger describes the show as a cross between Shark Tank, The Profit and Iyanla: Fix My Life.
Dellinger said there is a need to elevate female black-owned businesses. Although there has been a 300 percent increase in the number of female black-owned businesses over the past two years, less than 4 percent of those businesses make it to $1 million in sales. “That’s a huge gap to bridge,” Dellinger says.
As a full-time mother, wife and CEO, Dellinger understands the struggles that plague these women, whether that be balancing your family or difficulty finding working capital. On the show, she assists the entrepreneurs with a wide range of important business skills, including branding, negotiating contracts and delegating.
The series features Gloria Williams, Founder and CEO of Footnanny pedicure products and known as Oprah’s personal pedicurist; Bad Girls Club star Mehgan James, owner of 800 West clothing line; Lia Diaz, owner of The Girl Cave, a three-store chain of beauty bars and beauty supplies in Southern California; and Chef Shalamar Lane, owner of My Father’s BBQ, a family-run BBQ restaurant in Carson, California. “Every single woman and every single brand had a specific action plan given to them,” Dellinger says.
She works with a wide range of women on the show. All of them are determined to make it. All of them have put everything on the line to make it work – to get to the finish line. “One of the entrepreneurs,“ she says, reminded her of herself, “making it against all odds.”
Dellinger has been assisting female entrepreneurs informally for many years, serving as a mentor and helping them network. She served as an expert on a panel at Black Enterprise Magazine’s 2012 Vision 20/20 Entrepreneur Conference and spoke at their 2013 Women of Power Summit. She’s also spoken at the Texas Black Expo Diva Dialogue as a panel expert and was the keynote speaker at her university’s 2013 Make Your Mark conference.
Dellinger says she never pursued a television show. Mind Your Business with Mahisha, she says, fell into her lap. Filming began in February, with one week on and two weeks off. It was challenging at times, especially with a large and growing haircare company three children at home, with “three different drop offs and three different pickups.”
She credits her husband with giving her the freedom to pursue the TV show. “I was thinking ‘I can’t do this.’ I felt like I needed to be home. My husband said ‘I’ve got this. It’s only eight weeks of your life.’”
Despite her time working on the show, she managed to create a CURLS new Green Collection, a new vegan line. “I’m always going so fast and furious,” Dellinger says.
Born and raised in a dangerous community in California, Dellinger was exposed to poverty, gang violence (her brother was in a gang”> and drugs. She credits her drive to succeed to not wanting to be poor again as well as wanting to make sure her children have a different destiny than she had growing up. “Because of where I came from, it’s a driver that keeps me going.”
Dellinger will watch the premiere this week in Dallas with friends and family with champagne, and then will be spending the next few weeks on a press tour to promote the show.
During our conversation, Dellinger shared her top tips for female entrepreneurs:
- Don’t be afraid to ask for help: Many women are trained to be the matriarch and feel like they have to do everything themselves. “Don’t be prideful. It’s much better to ask for help when you need it.”
- Do your due diligence: Know who your market is, know who your competition is, study the industry.
- Start small: If you’re a brand-new entrepreneur in an industry, the best thing you can do is learn while you’re small. Then you have the chance to pivot or tweak.
- Keep your day job as long as possible: It’s better to start off with a safety net while you’re getting your business off the ground. That helps take pressure off while you’re working through your business plan and going through the inevitable growing pains that most startups experience.
- Reinvest everything back in the business as long as you can: “Don’t go buy that Chanel bag!”
- Take advantage of free mentoring: Dellinger is a huge fan of SCORE (Service Corps of Retired Executives”>. The organization provides a variety of free resources for new business owners, including mentorship pairing and assistance in drafting business and marketing plans. Dellinger’s experience with SCORE was so beneficial, in fact, that she steers every budding entrepreneur she meets directly to their local office.
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Stephanie Rodriguez is a Latina with Type 3b curls. When she goes shopping for haircare products, she said she is looking for sulfate-free shampoos and curl-specific products from brands like Carol’s Daughter, SheaMoisture, Pantene and Garnier. “I think it should be organized by hair type/brands so it’s easier to pick out what you need for your hair, rather than just shoving the ‘ethnic’ section in the corner where people can feel left out.”
“I’m not sure who decided that ‘ethnic’ is non white. Everyone is ethnic,” says community member Ogechi Onwubu. “Let’s call it the hair care aisle, and divide it into sections based on texture.”
During the Global Beauty Alliance (GBA”> meeting last weekend at the 2018 Cosmoprof beauty show in Las Vegas, members voted unanimously to support changing the name of the “Ethnic” hair care category. The GBA would like to refer to the section as the “Textured Hair” section. The GBA’s membership includes some of the leaders in the multicultural haircare category.
According to Cornell McBride Jr, co-chair of the GBA and chief executive officer of Design Essentials, “The term ‘Ethnic’ is outdated, marginalizing and no longer the most accurate or descriptive term for the products in this beauty category.”
Pictured: Cornell McBride Jr, co-chair of the GBA and chief executive officer of Design Essentials
With the change, the products that are currently housed in the “Ethnic” category will continue to be housed in the renamed “Textured Hair” category, which members believe is a more accurate and inclusive term. Individual manufacturers will continue with their respective marketing and consumer communication campaigns.
In making the decision, the GBA leveraged TextureMedia’s recently released Perception Study: Ethnic and Multicultural Haircare Experience. TextureMedia’s study finds that most people with curly, coily or wavy hair – no matter what their ethnicity – consider their hair to be natural, textured or curly rather than “ethnic” or “multicultural.” The term “ethnic” on products or beauty aisles causes dissatisfaction among a major group of consumers who consider the term to be divisive.
According to our study, across all ethnicities, 45 percent chose “by hair texture” as a way to organize hair products, while percent chose “by hair concern.” Across all textured-hair consumers, only 4 percent would organize the aisle by “ethnicity.” Among black consumers, only 6 percent would organize the haircare aisle by ethnicity.
The GBA explained that the term “Ethnic” refers to a population subgroup (within a larger or dominant group”> with a common national or cultural tradition. When it comes to haircare, “the ‘ethnic’ nomenclature does not describe all of the consumers, their hair, or the products in this category accurately or sufficiently. All of the products in this category are especially effective on inherently curly hair, or textured hair. The GBA believes the definition of ‘textured hair’ is hair that has some kind of a curl pattern, where hair strands create shapes, curves, spirals, zig zags or waves. Textured hair is hair that is not straight. Hair that is not straight requires unique products for styling, moisturizing and control.”
“It’s no wonder ethnicities feel ostracized,” says Ada Nicole, a community member. “Races don’t need to be ‘called out,’ and not every white person has straight hair!”
For many who do search out the ethnic aisle in their store for their favorite products, it’s more out of habit. “It points me in the right direction,” says Ebonie Andrews.
The GBA’s vote is step one, says Carol Sagers, Director of the Global Beauty Alliance. The next step is up to retailers, who ultimately determine how they organize their haircare aisles.
If the textured-hair community has a say, stores will follow the lead of the GBA.
“People of all shades and ethnicities have varying degrees of textured hair,” says Pamela Stephens Gaines, a Louisiana community member with Type 4 coils. “Why can’t hair products be categorized by the hair type?”
The GBA is the combined voice of the multicultural beauty industry. It includes entrepreneurs, manufacturers, distributors and others working together to promote industry growth and development. The Global Beauty Alliance is the authority and leading voice on the unique requirements of the multicultural beauty industry. It provides access to resources, information and education to benefit all of its members.
What do you think of the “ethnic” aisle, and what would you prefer it be called? Let us know in the comments!
I remember stumbling upon a store in New York filled with all the hottest K-Beauty products, including racks of facial masks. I loved that there were masks for every possible skin concern — from redness to anti-aging. And each mask contained a sheet — with eye, nose and mouth holes — bathed in product that could be easily applied.
At the time, I wished there was something similar for hair – one-use masks that could be customized for my hair’s different needs.
My wish came true in a big way. Just like K-Beauty transformed the skincare market with masks, it’s transforming the way we care for our curls. K-Beauty, of course, is an umbrella term for beauty products from South Korea that have taken the West by storm in the last few years.
Hair masks now are one of the hottest trends in haircare, with numerous brands launching their versions of these one-use, easy-to-use conditioning treatments. While many have been launched by U.S. hair brands like SheaMoisture, L’Oreal Paris, and Garnier, the K-Beauty brands have also launched a wide variety.
Of course we wanted to get our hands on some of these masks, and we had the opportunity to try the new Lindsay Home Aesthetics line of 2-Step Self-Heating Hair Masks. The company was started by Korean entrepreneur Lindsay Yu.
The masks are each formulated with different butters, oils, proteins, and other ingredients depending upon your hair’s individual needs. One of our staffers, Cara, tried the Bye Bye Tangles & Knots mask (with shea oil, argan oil, and natural keratins”>, and Alex tried the Anti-Frizz Detangling Mask (with argan oil, elastin, silk amino acids, and carotene.”> Each came with a self-heating cap that is put on over the product to help it absorb into the hair follicles and strands more effectively.
These 20-minute masks come in a variety of formulas, with ingredients designed to address problems ranging from heat-tool abuse to itchy scalp. Each contains customized combinations of ingredients such as tea tree oil, argan oil, Manuka honey, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter.
Lindsay also makes two other types of masks: Overnight masks that you leave on while you sleep, and the Split Ends Prevention masks, which also include a leave-in serum to be applied after the 20-minute treatment. They all are available at Walmart for about $4 each.
The benefits of using a hair mask include:
1. They’re convenient: Everything is self-contained, from the formula to the foil cap. 2. They’re portable: When flying, I often was forced to check my bags just because of my hair products. With these hair masks, there is no need. They can slip into a purse or backpack. “If you’re traveling a lot and you don’t want to bring your whole jar of deep conditioner, these are perfect,” says Alex. 3. They’re problem-solution oriented: Whether you’re suffering from heat damage or your color-treated hair needs some extra pampering, you can buy masks that are customized to address specific needs. 4. They’re inexpensive: Each mask is available for less than $4. 5. They’re self-heating: The foil-coated hair cap creates a steaming effect, which allows the ingredients to be better absorbed. 6. They appeal to the product junkie: There are so many different varieties to try; you won’t get bored. If you’re like me, by the time I’m halfway through a tube of conditioner, I’m getting antsy to try something new and different.If you’d like to learn more about K-Beauty, check out this article.
