Search Results: Michelle Breyer
Whether she was painting or sculpting, Rochelle Rae always was inspired by beauty.
Now working as an Austin makeup artist, she has used these same artistic sensibilities to create the popular Rae Cosmetics line.
While working as a graphic artist and model, she met a makeup artist and was intrigued by the way makeup could bring out every woman’s beauty.
Her desire to learn more about the industry led her to Los Angeles, where she attended the prestigious Hollywood Makeup Designery. She began working on movies, but tired of the lifestyle.
Rae returned home to Austin to work as a commercial makeup artist and opened Rae Cosmetics Studio. She quickly gained a reputation for her natural, flattering style and gained a large and loyal clientele of newscasters, musicians, movie stars and legislators as well as brides, models, students and career women.
“I felt that her makeup made me look better than myself, but still like me,” singer Kelly Willis said of Rae. “I felt more confident than I normally do in a photo shoot.”
In Rae’s work, she found it difficult to find makeup that gave people a sheer, natural look that could hold up in the Texas heat.
“I wanted a light, natural makeup line for a hot, active community,” Rae said. “I wanted something easy that didn’t take a lot of time. Most people don’t have a lot of time.”
After 10 years in the business, she began developing her own makeup line – one that met the needs of on-the-go women. After two years of research and development, she launched Rae Cosmetics. Her slogan is “Beauty, Pure & Simple.”
The line includes lipsticks, lip glosses, eye liners, lip liners, concealers and foundations. Rae Cosmetics foundations and powders are mineral based and contain no oil, talc, fragrance or potentially irritating ingredients. They contain natural antioxidants and sunscreens as well as Vitamins A and E.
Although the colors are fun, they still are more natural. The purples, for example, have gold undertones to flatter any skin tone.
“This isn’t for makeup junkies,” said the blonde, curly Rae. “Rae Cosmetics are designed for active women who want to look great and then go about their lives.”
Christo Fifth Avenue’s “Spring Delight” features face-framing layers.
Luscious waves and sexy curls are hot for spring, whether they be long, cascading ringlets or messy buns.
“This season is about casual elegance,” says New York stylist Rodney Cutler. “We’re seeing a Boho look, with more style.”
Long layers are big this spring. Cuts have a lot of movement that accentuates the texture.
“Layers are off the charts,” Cutler says.
Lorraine Massey of Devachan, author of “Curly Girl,” is seeing almost exaggerated length, with shorter layers in the front.
“It’s a faux Farrah look,” Massey says. “We’re definitely seeing shape again. It’s not long hair just for the sake of having long hair.”
Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue has unveiled two curly cuts for spring that use angled layers. The angle is cut based on the face structure
“Spring Delight, ” which features face-framing layers, works best on hair that’s wavy to medium curl.
“The hair still has a shape, even without using styling product,” Christo says.
For tighter, kinkier curls, Christo has introduced “Curl Expressions,” which uses long layers to bring more shape to the curls.
“If you cut it one length, the hair has no lift — no expression; it has a pyramid look,” Christo says. “By using angles, it’s a way to make every single curl pop out and look its best. The hair looks more springy, more bouncy. It has more sex appeal. “
Massey’s seeing haircuts that are shorter and fuller. The look is soft and sexy — not overly controlled.
“Curls are not supposed to crunch,” she says.
The curling iron is making comeback this season, with curls being redefined into looser ringlets. Cutler likes to use a medium to large curling barrel, casually wrapped 2-inch to 3-inch sections from the end to the root.
“The look is flatter at the roots and wavier at the end,” Cutler says
To go along with the more casual looks for spring, color is multi-faceted, with natural-looking highlights.
“I’m seeing a lot of dimension — a lot of low-lights and highlights interwoven,” says Marsha Coulton,” a Brooklyn curl specialist.
Christo is doing “spring highlights” in shades ranging from caramel to golden blonde.
“We’re using lighter, warmer shades,” Christo says. “People can’t wait for winter to go away.”
He uses a technique called “smart lights,” in which foils are sprinkled along the top of the hair to warm up the face. The roots aren’t highlighted.
“It blends nicely and creates more of an effect,” Christo says.
If the hair is blonde, Christo uses a technique he calls “Smart Blonde.” The blonde is accelerated into the root area to make the woman look like more of a natural blonde.
“If your hair is naturally dark blonde, it brings you to a light blonde in a natural way that doesn’t look like you color your hair,” Christo says. “It looks like you have natural highlights from the sun.”
Massey likes to paint on highlights to accentuate the curls, as if she was painting on a canvas.
“I really try to avoid linear lines,” says Massey. “I try to respect each curl.”
Help her keep her curls healthy and tangle-free
while she’s out on the field.
Whether it be sprinting down a soccer field, swimming laps or twirling in a tutu, physical activity is one of the healthiest things for kids. The right haircut, styling techniques and products can keep your curly kid on the go looking good as they run, jump and cartwheel their way through their many activities.
For girls, longer hair can actually be easier when it comes to sports because it can be pulled back away from the face.
“For active kids, it’s important to keep the hair tied back or braided,” says Ilona Reece, a specialist in children’s haircare and creator of the Taria Curlz line of products. “This helps prevent the hair from tangling up and getting in their way.”
Stacy Hershkowitz of Kids Cutz R us Salon in Greenacres, Fla. likes to twist hair away from the face, leaving the back long. Parents may want to invest in a product like a Topsytail Junior, a hair styling loop that easily and stylishly pulls even the curliest hair back.
“Anything you can find that’s original, kids will love,” says Sabra Dupree, owner of Kids Kuts Slon in Marietta, Ga.
Other practical and low-maintenance styles include pulling the hair back into two braided ponytails, twists or cornrows. The hair can be washed with braids.
Long layers can help give their hair shape and can make their curls look their best.
“One length doesn’t really work,” says Dana Grandy, a stylist at Snippets Mini Cuts in Chicago, Ill. “Layers help distribute the curls evenly and help the hair look its best. It gives it some body and shape.”
For boys, short or long can work well. If kept short, it can be slicked back with little bit of gel to slick it back or accentuate the curls. Longer hair can be pulled back in a ponytail – a la Troy Palamu of the Pittsburgh Steelers.
Swimming provides its own set of challenges because chlorine can be especially drying for curly hair. Before getting into the pool, the hair should be wet with regular water and a leave-in conditioner. This will act as a barrier to the chlorine.
“When you get in the water, the hair will be full of conditioner so there won’t be any room for chlorine,” Dupree says.
After getting out of the pool, use a shampoo especially for swimmers to remove any chlorine from the hair and condition again.
“If you can smell chlorine, you did not rinse it out well enough,” says Dupree.
The right products are essential. Shampoos should be gentle and moisturizing, and the hair should be shampooed no more than three times a week. On other days, try a lavender mist spray like Devacurl’s Mist-er Right.
Condition often. Every week or two, comb a deeper conditioner through the hair with a wide-toothed comb and leave on for 15 to 20 minutes.
“If curly hair isn’t hydrated, it gets dry, fuzzy and frizzy,” Dupree says. “I can’t stress enough how important hydrating is.”
To keep the hair pulled back for activities like gymnastics or ballet, use a soft-bristle flat brush and a little hairspray or mousse to comb back the sides.
“It helps to smooth out the frizzy hairs that tend to stick up,” Reece says.
If the child can’t shower, keep a spray bottle of water around and some gel or mousse in their backpack or gym bag, says Jennifer Senffner at Cookie Cutters in Napierville, Ill.
After they have finished their activity, they can quickly go to the washroom, dampen their hair and then reapply some of the products and restyle it, whether pulling it back again or leaving it down and curly.
“Doing this will eliminate the frizzies and will make the hair look neat and cute,” Reece says.
Product suggestions for active curly kids
Shampoos
Fairy Tales Lifeguard Clarifying Shampoo
Circle of Friends Ana Banana Shampoo
Ouidad KRLY No Time For Tears Shampoo
Jason’s Swimmer’s and Sports Rejuvenating Shampoo
California Baby Swimmer’s Defense Shampoo and Bodywash
L’Oreal Kids Swim Shampoo
Conditioners
Fairy Tales Detangling Conditioner
Fairy Tales Energizing Leave-in Conditioner
Fairy Tales Lemon-Aid Conditioner
Circle of Friends Abedi’s Safari Detangler
Circle of Friends Maya Papaya Leave-In Conditioner
Circle of Friends Dragon Dance Conditioner
Curlsto Kids Leave-In Conditioner
Curly Hair Solutions Slip Detangler
Ouidad KRLY No More Knots Conditioner
Jason’s Swimmer’s and Sports Revitalizing Conditioner
Styling Products
Fairy Tales Curly Q Natural Curl Maker Gel
Circle of Friends Erik’s Shaping Hair Gel
Circle of Friends Janaina’s Mango Mousse Foam
Circle of Friends Luc’s Lemon Lime Shine Hair Slicker
Circle of Friends Valerie’s Vanilla Freeze Hair Spray
Blended Cutie Soft Curls and Swirls Cream
Jessicurl Awe Inspiraling Spray
CurlFriends Rejuvenate Texturizing Mist
Ouidad KRLY Pump & Go Spray Gel
Michael EalyIn the past, many men cut their curls short to control them. Buzz cuts were common, eliminating any hint of texture.
“Quick and easy used to mean short,” says Veronica Bessey, art director for Dallas-based Toni & Guy.
But the current trend is for men to flaunt their curls, thanks to advances in products and cutting techniques. The look is stylized, with natural movement.
“Men are definitely wearing their hair longer and letting their curls come out more,” says Ethan Shaw, a curl expert at Anne Kelso Salon in Austin, Tx.
Ashton HolmesNew York curl expert Ouidad says 30 percent of her clients are men, and they are definitely wearing their curls longer.
“It’s very stylish,” she says.
A good cut is the first, and most important, step.
“Men can let their curly hair spring free as long as they have a professional cut so it has style,” says curl expert Elie Gerdak of Elie Elie Salon in Tysons Corners, Va.
To determine the right cut and style, a man’s face shape, jaw shape and texture should be considered.
“Keeping the curl pattern in mind is a must,” Gerdak says. “With tight curls, it is better to create a contoured shape through carving the hair and letting the curls breath. With loose curls, a gentle slicing technique can help the hair maintain its balance. Wavy clients want a style that is easy to maintain.”
In addition, a man’s age, lifestyle and occupation should also be considered. College students and those in creative fields are wearing their hairdown to their shoulders and below, as well as growing it out into big afros. In the corporate world, it tends to be closer to the neckline.
“The higher you get, the shorter it goes,” Ouidad says.
The key is in the cutting, changing the shape while keeping the length.
Ouidad, for example, carves and slices curls for control. Shaw razor cuts into the curls to break them up. For bushy curls, Woody Michleb of Woody’s Salon & Spa in Toronto likes the tunnel cut, where sections of hair are cut at the roots to remove bulk.
“I don’t like blunt cuts because they tend to puff out,” Michleb says.
Cypriano of Christo Fifth Avenue in New York cuts the hair shorter around the face and sides, leaving some length in the back — a look he calls a “progressive mullet.” He also does a cut where it’s longer on top and short in the back.
“The in-between look doesn’t work,” he says. “It will just be in a ponytail, so it makes no sense.”
Men aren’t afraid to have chemical services to better control their hair. Michleb regularly uses relaxers on tighter curls to take the frizz away and make them more manageable. Some of his Cypriano’s male clients now come in for a Bio-softening treatment to get a wavier look. Salons also are doing more deep conditioning treatments on men to keep their curls looking their best.
“All the essentials a girl has, a man wants,” Cypriano says.
Choosing the right products is essential to keeping curls looking their best. Most men want to be able to wash and go without being dependent on a lot of products.
“The key for men is ‘Does it look good and is it quick?’ ” Bessey says. “They want to be able to wash and go, without messing with it.”
Naveen AndrewsShampoos, conditioners and styling products should be easy to use, moisturizing and not overly fragrant.
Leave-in conditioners are a good choice for men. They are light and require little extra time.
The styling product you choose depends on your curl type. Coarser, kinkier curls need a heavier product, like defining and molding creams and pastes. These products provide control without crunch. Gels and mousses work well in finer hair types. Pomades work well on most curl types.
“As long as you can run the hands through it, that’s where you get the sexiness,” Bessey says. “Nobody wants to run their hands through crunchy hair.”
So how does one go from short to long? The transition period can be awkward. Bessey suggests slicking it back during the “evil, grow-out” stage. And there’s always the cap.
“Here in Texas, it’s all about the cap,” she says.
Product recommendations for men
Shampoo
Jessicurl Citrus Lavender Gentle Lather Shampoo
American Crew Citrus Mint Shampoo
Anthony Logistics Everyday Shampoo
ClarinsMen Total Shampoo
Sharps Mission Control Conditioning Shampoo
American Crew Revitalizing Daily Moisture Shampoo
Suave for Men 2-in-1 Shampoo/Conditioner
Conditioner
Ouidad Botanical Boost
American Crew Daily Leave-in Conditioner
American Crew Revitalizing Daily Conditioner
Malin + Goetz Hair Conditioner
Styling Products
Qhemet Biologics Karite Nut Curl Milk
Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper
American Crew Pomade
American Crew Citrus Mint Gel
American Crew Grooming Cream
American Crew Groom
Jack Black High Definition Hair Pomade
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
Bumble & Bumble Medium to Thick Curl Creme
Aquage Illuminating Gellade
Ouidad Curl Quencher Gel
Ouidad Clear Control Pomade
CHI Pliable Polish
MOP Defining Cream
Tigi Catwalk Curls Rock Curl Amplifier
Curl guru Christo has a friend who illegally imports tiny bottles of tiger bone marrow from China—at $300 each—to make his hair grow faster.
Some people hang upside down. Others buy vitamins, sprays and creams that promise to jump start the follicles.
Growing out short hair requires lots of patience, experts say.
“There’s no magic potion,” says Karen Shelton of HairBoutique.
Shelton says that the most frequent question she receives every month is how to make hair growth faster.
“People say ‘I want to grow my hair six inches over the next six months,” Shelton says. “I tell them to get extensions or get a wig.”
The reality is that genetics determine how tall you are, your eye color, your hair texture and the “predetermined maximum growth rate” of your hair. Typically, hair grows at a pretty consistent rate of one-third to one-half an inch per month. Half a millimeter per day is good average. What this means is that the maximum growth rate for hair is about six inches (15 cm”> per year.
Hair tends to grow faster in the summer than in the winter. It also is affected by such factors such as pregnancy, stress, medications and exercise.
Although there is no miracle treatment, there are steps that can be taken to ensure optimal hair growth.
“People along the way abuse their bodies,” Shelton says. “They drink too much alcohol, too much caffeine and they smoke. The don’t drink enough water. They live stressful lifestyles. This may throw your hair out of balance.”
Proper nutrition is key to the hair growing at its optimal rate. Make sure you’re getting enough of Vitamins A, D and E, which are essential for healthy hair. Several companies, including Phytologie, JF Lazartigue and Folicure, make vitamins specifically for the hair and skin. Many curlies swear by Shelton’s HairTopia, a supplement with vitamins, minerals, amino acids and herbs designed to provide the vital nutrients for hair growth. The vitamin was developed over a five-year process after Shelton became dissatisfied with the hair vitamin she was taking because it wasn’t being properly absorbed. She got together with a chemist and came up a formula that is absorbed quicker.
“It’s not a cure all,” Shelton stressed. “If you’re expecting six inches of hair growth in six months, don’t take HairTopia. But if you stick with it, it does help.”
Hair and nail growth depend on the circulation of blood in the body, says Jonathan Torch of the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto, Canada. Regular scalp massages can help stimulate hair growth by increasing circulation to the scalp and the hair follicles.
Christo recommends a scalp exercise treatment. Using mint oil or bay leaf oil, the scalp is massaged for 15 to 20 minutes every other day.
“The scalp is the only part of our body that doesn’t get a lot of exercise,” Christo says. “If the scalp is healthy, the hair will grow healthy.”
Make sure you care for your hair. Dry, fragile hair breaks, which can reduce length. Use high quality styling tools to reduce the wear and tear on the hair.
Make sure you keep the hair conditioned and trimmed regularly – every eight to 10 weeks for long hair and six to eight weeks for short hair, says Dr. David Cannell, vice president of research and development for Redken. And style your hair in a way that doesn’t stress it. Styles in which the hair is pulled tightly can stress the hair shaft, causing hair loss and breakage.
Diane Da Costa recommends wearing protective styles when growing out your hair.
“Those growing out a relaxer should use natural sets, flat twists or rod sets,” says Diane Da Costa, author of “Textured Tresses.” “Also, braids and some weaves—if done properly and taken care of—can help the hair grow in the interim.”
If you do have chemical services performed, make sure they are done professionally, and ask your hairdresser for the right products.
There are certain ingredients that help promote healthy hair growth, such as sesame oil, shea butter, rosemary and cloves.
“Any ingredient with a soy protein can help stimulate the scalp,” says Christo.
Removing product buildup also is critical to the growth of healthy hair. Products with a lot of waxes, gums and heavy oils can suffocate the scalp and can inhibit hair growth.
There are drugs that can help stop hair loss and promote regrowth in those with thinning hair. Rogaine and Minoxidil are the only over-the-counter drug recognized to promote hair growth and stop hair loss. And Propecia (finasteride”> is a FDA-approved pill proven to treat male pattern hair loss. But these are serious drugs. They aren’t designed to make hair grow faster.
Patience, says “Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey, is essential for hair growth.
“Just zen out of your regularly scheduled program,” Massey says. “Just live through it, don’t poo it, extra One Condition it, extra Angell it, enjoy it, and most importantly love it. As long as you’re alive, your hair will grow. Trust me.”
Since Diane Da Costa published “Textured Tresses” in 2004, she has traveled the country promoting her book.
The many book signings, media interviews and consultations over the past 18 months have reinforced why Da Costa wrote the book in the first place.
“People really do not know their hair textures,” Da Costa says.
“They don’t know whether it’s curly, kinky or coily. It’s been enlightening to see how many people didn’t know the basics about curly or textured hair and how thirsty they were for information.”
In the book, the veteran hairstylist and master designer — who counts such clients as Grammy winner Lauryn Hill and actor Blair Underwood as clients — offers solutions and information on the proper care of textured hair. The book sold more than 12,000 copies in the first six months alone, and has become a staple for many women and men with textured hair. The book has also established Da Costa as one of the country’s most visible experts on curly, kinky hair.
“Wow!” Da Costa says of the past 18 months. “It’s been exciting. It’s been overwhelming at times.”
Now Da Costa is capitalizing on this momentum to pursue some of her other exciting projects.
In February, Da Costa is relaunching her Tai Texture line — a collection that has been in the works since November 2004.
“Since I was promoting everyone else’s products in the book, I realized that my power in endorsing products was huge,” Da Costa says. “I decided it was the right time to produce and create a product line for myself.”
Although she came out with a limited edition of the Tai Texture line last February, she had difficulties with her small manufacturer, which couldn’t keep up with demand.
So she had to go back to square one. With an infusion of capital, a new chemist and a new manufacturer, she has developed a collection of four Tai Texture styling products: Whipped Cream, Lavender Mist, Style Shine and Botanical Treatment. She plans to add new products each season, with a shampoo and conditioner on the drawing board as well as additional styling products.
She also would like to launch Tai Baby, a line of products for babies and children, as well as a men’s line.
Da Costa also has been back behind the chair for the past year, working four days a week at Serenity Salon in New York City on West Broadway’s Spa Row. She has big plans for a Tai Textures boutique in downtown Manhattan in late 2006 or early 2007, with beauty products and books, aromatherapy and space to teach hairstyling techniques and do makeovers.
She’s also working on a book specially for teens called “Teen Tresses.” The book will be filled with tips, questions and rules to help them understand and work with their hair.
“This will be a very fun, witty, exciting book,” Da Costa says.
Diane Da Costa’s Five New Year’s Hair Resolutions
1. Nourish and purify your hair with conditioning treatments and methods.
2. Shape and trim your hair.
3. Have fun with your hair. Be creative.
4. Remember to massage and feed your scalp.
5. Follow the advice of the experts closely. It’s the only way you’ll get optimal results.
Curl guru Christo has a friend who illegally imports tiny bottles of tiger bone marrow from China — at $300 each — to make his hair grow faster. Some people hang upside down. Others buy vitamins, sprays and creams that promise to jump start the follicles.
“There’s no magic potion,” says Karen Shelton of HairBoutique.
Shelton says that the most frequent question she receives every month is how to make hair growth faster.
“People say ‘I want to grow my hair six inches over the next six months,” Shelton says. “I tell them to get extensions or get a wig.”
The reality is that genetics determine how tall you are, your eye color, your hair texture and the “predetermined maximum growth rate” of your hair. Typically, hair grows at a pretty consistent rate of one-third to one-half an inch per month. Half a millimeter per day is good average. What this means is that the maximum growth rate for hair is about six inches (15 cm”> per year. Hair tends to grow faster in the summer than in the winter. It also is affected by such factors such as pregnancy, stress, medications and exercise.
Although there is no miracle treatment, there are steps that can be taken to ensure optimal hair growth.
“People along the way abuse their bodies,” Shelton says. “They drink too much alcohol, too much caffeine and they smoke. The don’t drink enough water. They live stressful lifestyles. This may throw your hair out of balance.”
Proper nutrition is key to the hair growing at its optimal rate. Make sure you’re getting enough of Vitamins A, D and E, which are essential for healthy hair. Several companies, including Phytologie, JF Lazartigue and Folicure, make vitamins specifically for the hair and skin. Many curlies swear by Shelton’s HairTopia, a supplement with vitamins, minerals, amino acids and herbs designed to provide the vital nutrients for hair growth. The vitamin was developed over a five-year process after Shelton became dissatisfied with the hair vitamin she was taking because it wasn’t being properly absorbed. She got together with a chemist and came up a formula that is absorbed quicker.
“It’s not a cure all,” Shelton stressed. “If you’re expecting six inches of hair growth in six months, don’t take HairTopia. But if you stick with it, it does help.”
Hair and nail growth depend on the circulation of blood in the body, says Jonathan Torch of the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto, Canada. Regular scalp massages can help stimulate hair growth by increasing circulation to the scalp and the hair follicles.
Christo recommends a scalp exercise treatment. Using mint oil or bay leaf oil, the scalp is massaged for 15 to 20 minutes every other day.
“The scalp is the only part of our body that doesn’t get a lot of exercise,” Christo says. “If the scalp is healthy, the hair will grow healthy.”
Make sure you care for your hair. Dry, fragile hair breaks, which can reduce length. Use high quality styling tools to reduce the wear and tear on the hair.
Make sure you keep the hair conditioned and trimmed regularly – every eight to 10 weeks for long hair and six to eight weeks for short hair, says Dr. David Cannell, vice president of research and development for Redken. And style your hair in a way that doesn’t stress it. Styles in which the hair is pulled tightly can stress the hair shaft, causing hair loss and breakage.
“Those growing out a relaxer should use natural sets, flat twists or rod sets,” says Diane Da Costa, author of “Textured Tresses.” “Also, braids and some weaves — if done properly and taken care of — can help the hair grow in the interim.”
If you do have chemical services performed, make sure they are done professionally, and ask your hairdresser for the right products.
There are certain ingredients that help promote healthy hair growth, such as sesame oil, shea butter, rosemary and cloves.
“Any ingredient with a soy protein can help stimulate the scalp,” says Christo.
Removing product buildup also is critical to the growth of healthy hair. Products with a lot of waxes, gums and heavy oils can suffocate the scalp and can inhibit hair growth.
There are drugs that can help stop hair loss and promote regrowth in those with thinning hair. Rogaine and Minoxidil are the only over-the-counter drug recognized to promote hair growth and stop hair loss. And Propecia (finasteride”> is a FDA-approved pill proven to treat male pattern hair loss. But these are serious drugs. They aren’t designed to make hair grow faster.
Patience, says “Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey, is essential for hair growth.
“Just zen out of your regularly scheduled program,” Massey says. “Just live through it, don’t poo it, extra One Condition it, extra Angell it, enjoy it, and most importantly love it. As long as you’re alive, your hair will grow. Trust me.”
Yanai Van has spent the past two decades styling the hair of clients around the globe, working with a diversity of hair textures in a variety of climates.
These experiences, along with his own head of ringlets, have given him a passion for curly hair.
Van was born and raised in Jerusalem, Israel. He says his passion for beauty and hair is genetic since his mother was a well-known hair stylist in Jerusalem, and her brother was one of the biggest hair designers in Tel Aviv. Van remembers growing up in that beauty shop, looking at every move, cut and style. He knew that was the life for him.
He traveled to Europe to study hair styling. For 13 years, Van and his mother owned one of the largest salons in Jerusalem. When his mother died, he traveled to the United States and decided to settle in California.
These days, Van coifs the curls of Hollywood’s most demanding clientele in the heart of Beverly Hills. In a town where image is everything, some of Los Angeles’ curly trendsetters rely on Van to make them shine.
Van says his mission is to provide his clients with an effective, easy regimen to care for their curls.
To help with that task, he has created his expansive and growing line of curl-care products, which include shampoos, conditioners and styling products for all curl types, as well as the KiddyCurls line for kids.This month, Yanai is launching a new Color Retention System. The line includes a sulfate-free shampoo, leave-in protectant, daily conditioner and intensive treatment hair mask. All Yanai products are available in CurlMart.
Yanai’s How-To Guide for Mastering Your Curls
Step 1
Shampoo your hair.
Step 2
Condition your hair and brush it thoroughly. Don’t rinse the conditioner out 100%; leave some on.
Step 3
Apply some scalp moisturizing liquid and gel. Work it in with your fingers so it covers all your hair. The more hair you have, the more gel you should use.
Step 4
Comb your hair with a wide tooth comb.
Step 5
Take small sections of your hair one at a time and corkscrew them around your finger toward your face. The thicker your hair is, the more you can wrap around your finger.
Step 6
Work from the bottom of your hair up to your part.
Step 7
Turn your hair down and shake it out. With a dry towel, cup the ends of your hair and gently press in toward your scalp. Do this across all your hair.
Step 8
Let it air dry if possible. However, if you must blow dry, use a diffuser to minimize frizz. While your hair is down, dry it from all sides from the bottom of your hair up.
Step 9
When nearly dry, apply no more than three drops of Shine (depending how thick your hair is”>. Spread your fingers and lift hair upward to attain lift.
Step 10
Be proud.
A little sparkle, a little shine and soft color can create a festive, feminine look for the holidays.
‘Keep it fresh,’ said makeup artist Erin Alejandro of INNU Salon in Austin. ‘You don’t have to have heavy, smoky eyes.Eye colors in shades of lavender, plum and silver are good holiday choices for most skin tones. Try Bobbi Brown Cream Shimmer Eye Shadow in Pale Silver and Pale Steel. For a little extra sparkle, shades of gold, copper and green can be a pretty look. Try Benefit Show Offs! in Mint Julep, MAC LustreLeaf or Emani Crushed Minerals Color Dust in Urbanized. Flattering golds include NARS Night Star, Emani Crushed Minerals Color Dust in White Gold and NYC Sparkle Eye Dust in Pink Champagne. For an extra dose of holiday shimmer, try Cargo’s Glitter Eye Gel Collection.
The rule of thumb is to play up either lips or eyes, but never both. If you’re going with a more dramatic eye, keep the lips subtle. Glossy lips always look festive. Some flattering glosses include NYC Liquid Lipstick in Betti Ann, Aveda Lip Glaze in Bronze, Clinique Colour Surge Lip Lacquer in Sultry Splash or Jouer lip gloss in Breeze.
To give lipstick staying powder, Austin makeup artist Rochelle Rae, creator of Rae Cosmetics, suggests applying lip liner to the entire lip. Powder the lips and then apply your lipstick. Lightly blot and then reapply lipstick to the center of the lips. A good holiday color is Rae’s Luxury Lipstick in Temptress, which has a high pigment level for hours of staying power.
Body shimmer is a sexy look for the holidays. Try applying a little shimmer on the collarbones, shoulders and back (if you’re showing it off.”> Think about where you’d want the highlights to be on your skin.
‘I’m not big on the all-over thing,’ said Wende Zomnir, executive creative director for Urban Decay and Hard Candy Cosmetics. ‘I like lots of drama, but sometimes you can overdo it. Remember, you’re lighting your body, so put the shimmer in places where you want highlights and where you want to draw attention.’When wearing shimmer on the body, tone down the shimmery makeup on the face.
‘You don’t want to look like you’re going to a Studio 54 costume party, but at the same time, hints of shimmery skin on both face and body can give you an ethereal, irresistible glow,’ Zomnir said. ‘You can put it everywhere, just don’t overdo it anywhere.’If you want to give your tresses a little holiday cheer, try Cargo’s HairMascara — a wand that sweeps face-framing highlights in blonde, bronze or copper on the hair for a festive holiday look. It sells for $20. Or try Conair’s ProColor Accents, brush-on temporary hair color with 18 color cartridges in 11 natural, shimmery tones. It retails for $23.
After too many nights of eggnog and holiday parties, dark circles may be an issue. Rae likes to dip a Q-tip in moisturizer and remove the concealer closer to the lash line. This will help prevent it from caking and settling into fine lines.
With cute little holiday purses, makeup palettes — with coordinating lip, eye and cheek colors along with applicators — can be a godsend during the busy holiday season. Bobbi Brown’s Sexy Glamour Palette has everything a woman needs to create this season’s ‘Winter ‘White holiday look, with three eye shadows, one lip color and a dual-ended mini eye shadow/eye liner brush and mini lip brush, which retails for $45. Stila has deluxe palettes that include 4 eye shadows, a cheek color, a lip color, all for $36. The palettes come in rose moon or golden moon. Also try Hard Candy’s Jewel Box Eye & Lip Palette, which is compact filled with seven lip glosses and eight eye shadows in a sleek, slim-line compact. It sells for $18. Cargo’s ColorCards are the perfect item for gals on the go — eye shadow that fits in the wallet like a crdit card. Each tin includes playing card with application tips. They retail for $24 for 28 eye shadows.
The child of a white French Canadian mom and a Black Guyanese dad, Stacey Canfield was born with a head full of tight ringlets.
When she was young, Canfield was routinely turned away from several salons because nobody knew what to do with her hair. With no resources available to her and no experience with this hair type, Canfield’s mother cut her daughter’s hair short.
‘My mother had such hardships with my hair,’ said Canfield, who resides in Brantford, Ontario, Canada. ‘I don’t think either one of us realized just what this was doing to me inside. I felt that my hair was ugly, and that it made me ugly too.’After years of texturizers, braids and extensions, she decided to cut off all the damaged hair.
‘I felt like I was meeting my hair for the first time — completely natural in both texture and color,’ Canfield said ‘I couldn’t believe I used to think I had ugly hair!’Now the challenge was to find products that worked with her natural hair texture — a challenging endeavor that eventually led her to create Blended Beauty, a line of natural haircare products for curly and kinky hair.
‘After realizing which ingredients gave me the effects I needed, I tried to find these ingredients on their own to make my own concoction,’ Canfield recalled. ‘But I never thought I would make my own hair product line. I thought only large companies do these things.’
It wasn’t until a neighbor introduced the stay-at-home mom to some natural handmade body products that ‘it hit me like a ton of bricks!’
‘I already knew what I wanted in a product and I realized that I had everything in me to create my own line of products,’ Canfield said.
Once she decided to embark on the venture, she researched ingredients for months, searching for the perfect mix of moisture, definition, frizz-fighting and soft hold. She found her education and background in chemistry and biology were well-suited for this kind of work. Her favorite ingredients are aloe, soy and murumuru butter.
The line, which has been an overnight success, includes cleansers, conditioners, spritzes, lotions, butters, masks and puddings. Canfield designed it with her own moderately textured hair. but after sharing the products with others, she found they also work on finer wavier hair as well as the kinkiest Type 4 hair types.
All Blended-Beauty products are made in small batches for freshness. They contain no heavy greases, irritating chemicals, silicones or alcohol. They are almost 100 percent natural.
‘My cream shampoo is so unique and perfect for all hair types,’ Canfield said. ‘I’ve been told it’s addictive.Stay tuned for more new Blended Beauty products in the coming months, including a light lotion for fine hair and a pure butter — shea butter softened with avocado and sunflower oils — product for Type 4 curls called ‘Butter Me Up!’
She plans to launch a body care line with the same ‘SBlended’ scent — short for splendidly blended — as well as a facial line. She also wants to create a clothing line for curlies.
‘I believe that everyone should be fully comfortable and content with their hair and the total ‘package’ they were born in,’ Canfield said. ‘I know know there is no such thing as ugly hair! Blended is beautiful.’Canfield’s products are available at CurlMart and www.blended-beauty.com
At Canadian beauty company Lush, shampoo bars have become one of the company’s hottest products.
The company recently introduced its new Godiva and Hybrid bars — bars rich in conditioning butters such as shea and coconut. That brings the company’s number of shampoo offerings to eight.
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Lush Godiva shampoo bar |
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Chagrin Valley Rosemary Lavender shampoo bar |
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Basin.com Egg Noggin Shampoo Bar |
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Crabapple Soap PookeyLou Bar for highly textured hairShampoo bars are one of the hottest trends in the haircare industry, with companies both large and small coming out with new a diverse array of solid products.
Fillmore said the economics and environmental aspects of shampoo bars are a big part of their popularity. With a typical Lush shampoo bar, the customer gets 50 to 80 washes, depending on the length of the hair. That’s the equivalent of three 8 oz. bottles.
‘You need only three strokes,’ she says.With liquid shampoo, the user typically ‘sees a lot of squish onto the shower floor,’ she says.
In many cases, a shampoo bar can be used for the hair or body, which adds to the cost savings.
Because a shampoo bar doesn’t require any plastic packaging, it tends to be more environmentally sensitive. Usually, they don’t contain any preservatives.
Shampoo bars tend to work best for active people who like the convenience of a bar — the ‘spartans’ as opposed to the ‘sybarites,’ Fillmore says.
‘They’re easy and quick,’ she says.Most liquid shampoos are sulfate/detergent based, while most poo bars are soap-based, said Jamyla Bennu of Oyin Handmade, whose Grand Poo Bar is detergent-free. Bennu explains that shampoo bars are made from saponified oils, and many makers add additional oils for their moisturizing and nourishing properties.
But shampoo bars aren’t all the same.
They can be made with a wide range of ingredients. For example,Chagrin Valley Soap and Craft Co. offers such bars as Carrot Milk & Honey, Lavender & Spice, Honey Beer & Egg and Herb Garden. Oyin’s Grand Poo Bar contains moisturizing oils and butters like castor, shea, and cocoa. Some, are 100 percent natural. Others are not.
‘You can have a shampoo bar that’s loaded with harsh ingredients,’ says Mia Simone Wright of Mia Simone’s Boutique.Mia Simon’s Boutique offers a wide range of 100 percent natural handmade gourmet soaps. The soaps, which can be used for hair and skin, contain nourishing and moisturizing natural ingredients. The Ultimate Butter Soap, for example, contains avocado, cocoa, mango and shea butter.
Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.
‘Sometimes, it’s whatever you’re used to,’ Wright says.HOW TO USE a shampoo bar * Thoroughly saturate hair. The wetter the hair, the easier for lather to distribute.
* Section hair sloppily and rub the bar on your scalp.
* Put the shampoo bar down and use hands to work into a lather. Be gentle, keeping the hair lather concentrated on your scalp at this time.
* DO NOT do that ‘shampoo commercial’ thing and make one big pile of sudsy hair on top of your head. If your hair is highly textured, coily, or curly, this can be a recipe for intense tangling!
* Instead, maintain your sloppy sections and slowly work the lather around the scalp and out/down to the ends of your hair. Use your fingers — not your nails — to massage your scalp firmly.
* Rinse well. again using the pads of your fingers on your scalp.
* When you’re done washing, add conditioner and detangle.Storage Tip: Cut bars into sections. Not tiny crumblish sections, but halves, thirds, or even quarters. In the shower, a bar of soap will disintigrate if it’s wet all the time. By cutting into sections and storing the used portion in the container, and the other portions somewhere else entirely (like a drawer or cabinet”>, the rest of the bar stays dry and the whole bar lasts much longer.
Source: Oyin Handmade
For most of her life, straight-haired Ilona Reece never thought twice about curly hair. Her goal was to become a police officer.
But when her daughter Tanisha was born 15 years ago, all of that changed.
Reece, who now has two curly daughters, has become a curl expert. The professional stylist has gained a reputation throughout Canada for her expertise in working with all curl textures, with some clients traveling from as far away as Kentucky.
Earlier this year, she launched her Taria Curlz instructional video for curly kids. She just introduced a line of five products specifically for kids with curly, kinky hair.
Like many hairdressers, Reece came by her knowledge on her own. The beauty school didn’t address the needs of textured hair.
‘I was always asking why we weren’t learning about curly hair and they would say ‘We don’t have a market for it,” Reece says. ‘As hairdressers, we should all be learning about it.’She recalls working at a salon after graduating from beauty school and watching in horror as a black woman was turned away because the receptionist said the salon didn’t work on hair like hers.
‘My heart dropped,’ Reece recalls. ‘I thought ‘How would my daughter feel if somebody said that to her?’ On the spot, I decided I would learn how to work with curly hair myself.’To help with her training, Reece has traveled to Toronto to take classes because they incorporate curly hair into their curriculum. She also has worked in a multicultural salon to learn how to work with all different types of curly and kinky hair.
‘Curly hair comes in so many forms, textures and thicknesses,’ she says. ‘The key is to understand each individual curl pattern and texture and what should be done with it.’Reece says 75 percent of her clientele now are black or biracial. Although most of her clients are adults, curly children are a special interest of hers.
‘Because of my daughters, I’ve always had a passion for children with curly hair,’ she says. ‘Over the years, I’ve come to realize that so many parents of children with curly hair have struggled to learn how to deal with their hair.’Reece says the principal of her daughter’s school told her a child’s self confidence and self esteem have a big influence on their academic achievements.
Reece has learned a lot from her own daughters about proper haircare. Tanisha has spirally curls, while Aria has kinkier hair. They were the inspiration for her video, which provides steps for how to wash, condition, comb (painlessly”> and style all types of curls. It even provides guidance on how to get them to sit still while they’re getting their hair done.
‘The whole point of the video is to make hair time a fun time rather than a struggle,’ Reece says.
Based on the success of her video, she she wants to come out with another video on advanced styling techniques.
She is also excited about the recent launch of her haircare line: Banana Cream Dream Shampoo, Creamy Chocolate Chip Conditioner, Juicy Melon Berry Curl Quencher Spray, Moisturizing Mango Butter Cream for Curlz and Curlz in Control Coconut Frizz Smoothie. It will be available later this month in CurlMart.
‘My main goal is to help parents teach their children how to work with their hair, and to let the children know how beautiful their hair is’ Reece says. ‘It shouldn’t be viewed as a problem.’
‘My great granny always said, ‘If you want to know a black woman, you touch her hair.’ She said that is where we carry everything – our hopes, our dreams, our pain.’
— Novelette in ‘da Kink in my Hair
A hit play has put textured hair in the spotlight from coast to coast.
‘ ‘Da Kink in My Hair,’ based on comedian Trey Anthony’s book of the same name, connects women’s kinks and curls to their life experiences.Set in a West Indian hair salon in Toronto, ‘ ‘da Kink In My Hair’ gives voice to a group of women who recount their stories. In the collection of monologues mixed with music, salon owner Novelette can read customers’ hair, which tell tales of betrayal, abuse, even murder. Novelette’s touch also brings each woman closer to realignment and self-acceptance.
The play originally debuted in 2001 at the Toronto Fringe Festival. ‘ ‘da Kink’ has broken box office records and attracted diverse audiences. Critics have hailed it as the ‘Pick of the Fringe’ — an honor of excellence bestown upon productions.
In 2002 ‘ ‘da Kink’ was restaged for Harbourfront Center’s Black History Festival where it sold out in every single performance again. It was later invited to participate in the 2002 New York International Fringe Festival and then invited again in 2004 by NBC to be featured in a PSNBC showcase. It has played to audiences around the country, recently traveling to San Diego Repertory Theatre.
‘I whisper, then sometimes I’m loud
I always stand out in a crowd
I come in naps, curls, locs and waves
Shaming sad tries best left in caves
My myriad styles are ever up to date
Yet I am the subject of intense debate
The critics gather to envy me
For I am woven with her story
Wear me out and flaunt me if you dare!
Who am I?
I am a Black woman’s hair.’ — From ‘Natural Woman/Natural Hair: A Hair Journey’
T’Keyah Crystal Keymah, like many black women, grew up believing that she had to press and perm her hair to look her best. ‘It was all I knew,’ says the actress, writer, producer, director, dancer, singer . ‘I learned without anyone telling me that looking my best was something other than what actually came out of my head. I started having a problem with that.’
Through her struggle and acceptance of her texture, natural hair has become her passion, inspiring her to write ‘Natural Woman/Natural Hair: A Hair Journey.’ In an industry where image is everything, Keymah serves as a positive role model, proudly flaunting her braids, twists and kinks.
Keymah’s has been a regular on the stage and screen. Her long list of credits include ‘That’s So Raven,’ ‘On Our Own,’ ‘Cosby,’ ‘Jackie Brown,’ Politically Incorrect,’ ‘Soul Train,’ and ‘The Keenen Ivory Wayans Show.’ During her five seasons on Emmy-award winning ‘In Living Color,’ she earned an NAACP Image Award nomination and a Soul Train Comedy Award nomination.
‘The mail I’ve gotten as an actress with natural hair has been overwhelmingly positive,’ she says. But it has been a long journey for Keymah, who spent half her life fighting her hair’s natural texture. While modeling in Chicago, she did a commercial for a product that was supposed to perm and curl your hair. ‘I thought ‘How bad could it be?’ she says. ‘It was pretty bad.’ With her hair badly broken, it gave her the incentive she needed to go natural. ‘Fortunately for me and my natural hair, my first big job on television was ‘In Living Color,” Keymah says. ‘How you wore your hair, makeup and clothes could reflect your own personality.’ Initially she wore her hair braided flat to her head. Then she went straight to the barber shop and cut off ‘everything that wasn’t marching.’ She wore her hair in a little afro and then twists.
This atmosphere of individuality and acceptance wasn’t necessarily the norm.
‘At every other show, my hair was met with shock, curiosity, disbelief,’ she says. ‘I had a casting director say ‘You’re great and pretty, but I just can’t hire you with that hair.’ I said, ‘Thanks for the honesty, but the hair does come with me. I’m very fortunate I keep getting jobs despite the fact I’m a big, big troublemaker.’These days, she wears her hair braided and twisted in a variety of styles, depending on her schedule and mood. ‘I’m never tempted to go back to permed hair,’ she says.
She decided to write her book because there was a lack of information about natural hair. By the time it was published in 2003, there were a number of books on the market — a positive sign that attitudes about natural hair are changing.
Despite major strides made in recent years, she still thinks there’s a ways to go.
‘The images you see of women wearing their hair naturally are images of a woman biting into a sandwich or buying insurance,’ she says. ‘She’s not the lead in the film or the star of the television show. When you think about the female lead, more likely than not, her hair is straight.’
Keymah stresses that she’s not advocating that all women wear their hair natural. But they shouldn’t feel pressure to do so. ‘If you straighten your hair because you believe that your own nappy, curly, wavy, frizzy, fuzzy hair is ugly or bad, I have a problem with that.’
T’Keyah Crystal Keyman’s tips
Sleep on a satin pillowcase to prevent hair breakage
A healthy diet is essential
Trim your hair in a new moon
Condition your hair with rosemary oil the day before you wash it (mix in some tea tree oil if you have dandruff”>
NaturallyCurly member Gladys has beautiful silver hair.
As more silver strands popped up, that task became more difficult. But after hair color turned her natural dark brown hair a shade of orange ginger, she decided to stop dying it. She has been dye-free for more than a year and couldn’t be happier.
“I consider myself a pretty low-maintenance kind of woman, and was really unhappy with the time, expense and ‘ick’ factor of dying my hair,” says Madonna of Sandy Hook, Va. Madonna is one of a growing number of women who are opting to go silver, white and gray.
Curl guru Lorraine Massey calls women like this silver sirens, and she’s seeing more of them at her Devachan Soho salon these days. She said they typically are women who found themselves returning to the salon every three weeks for color. “We have a load of silver sirens, and some of them are young,” Massey says. Women decide to let their hair go gray for variety of reasons, at different points in their lives.
“It’s by default that I’m growing out my gray because I can’t afford color,” says 36-year-old Beth Murschell of Bradenton, Florida, who has about two inches of gray at the scalp. But she says she’s conflicted. “I love the idea of healthy, natural hair but don’t want people to assume I’m older,” she says. “I’m trying to think of my gray hair as a positive thing.”
For most people who make the decision, it’s because of they are fed up with the demarcation line of their gray hair and the colored hair, and the time and effort it takes to color it. “They get regrowth so quickly, and it’s a pain in the neck to color so often,” said Jonathan Torch of the Curly Hair Institute. Going gray shouldn’t be viewed as throwing in the towel. For many women, silver curls can be flattering. “Gray hair is absolutely beautiful,” Torch says. “There are some people I would never suggest color their hair because I can’t think of a color that could look better.”
Going gray gracefully takes some preparation — mentally and physically. For many, the “two-tone” phase — usually the first three months — is especially intimidating.
Some stylists recommend switching from a permanent to a semi- or demi-permanent haircolor to make the process easier as it grows out because it can blend the gray and provide some variation in tone.
Ben Stewart, color director at Cutler Salons in New York, said he likes to do some low lighting when the gray has grown in around two inches. These would be streaks of color as close to the natural haircolor as possible.
Torch uses a similar technique that breaks up the gray demarcation line by weaving in some hair color through the roots. He weaves the color through only 35 percent of the hair — just enough to break up the line. As the gray regrowth gets longer, he might do the same technique again, this time on only 10 percent of the hair. At some point, he’ll recommend a shorter cut to remove the remaining artificial color. “Sooner or later, it has to be cut off,” he says. “But you don’t have to jump in and cut it right away.”
When a client is considering going gray, Massey initially likes to leave a section of hair in the front gray so the customer can adjust to the look. Or she may let the part underneath grow out while coloring the rest. “If you’re really up for it, cut it off,” Massey says.
Gray hair tends to be dryer, and may have a life of its own. Moisture is especially important to keep the curls bouncy. Use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. But you might need less conditioner than you used to use because gray hair tends to be less damaged than colored hair.
Shine is key for gray hair because it tends to be transparent. It can look thinner and frizzier if it’s dull. Torch likes to use Curl Keeper on his gray clients to enhance their shine.
It can also be challenging to find hair products that won’t yellow the hair. Many stylists recommend violet-toned shampoos to brighten up the hair and remove yellow tones.
The texture may change when you go gray. Judi Kramer of San Francisco says her silver hair is curlier and dry, while her brown hair was oily and wavy. “The gray hair has taken on a life of its own,” Kramer says. “I had to change everything.”
Madonna had a similar experience when she began going gray. “My grays happen to be a beautiful shade of shiny, silvery-gray, but they are much more wiry and kinky than the rest of my hair,” she says. “They have minds of their own! They also have a tendency to boing out from the rest of the pack in a most uncontrollable fashion.”
“As I learn more about caring for my waves and curls in general, the grays are beginning to play a bit more nicely with the browns. But I’ve also learned to accept the grays as they are. If they really want to boing, I just let them boing.” The best advice she has it to “embrace your gray hair in all of its glory, just as it is.”
“Experiment with techniques and products, and learn how to work with the gray rather than trying to conquer it and make it behave a certain way.” For some, the decision to go gray may be gradual taking several decades. Kramer says she began getting her first gray hairs when she was 16. She colored it through her 20s and early 30s, going blonde, then red. By her late 30s, her hair was salt and pepper. Now in her 50s, Kramer’s hair is a beautiful silver. With her fair skin, she said it “all works.”
“If you allow it to happen in a gradual way, it’s a much easier transition,” Kramer says. “You can learn to love it.”When she broaches the subject of coloring her hair now with colorists, they all say “Don’t touch your hair.”
“I always get compliments on my hair color,” Kramer says.
Products for Silver Sirens
Shampoos:
Jessicurl Hair Cleansing Cream
Clairol Shimmering Lights
Matrix So Silver
Conditioners
A good cut and products can only go so far in learning to love your curls. So in October Jonathan Torch hosted his first Curly Hair Clinic at his Curly Hair Institute in Toronto.
The 2-hour intensive training session seeks to help curlies learn to style their own hair. Torch and his staff teach the customers Curly Hair Solutions tips and techniques for curly hair, including combing, styling and drying their own hair.
‘Our curl technicians are here to help the people style their hair, but they are not there to do the hair for them,’ says Torch. ‘The whole point is for the customer to leave knowing and being confident about managing and styling their hair on a daily basis. We feel that this hands-on approch to teaching our tips and techniques is the most beneficial to the customer.’Future clinics cost $75, and include a Curly Hair Solutions travel pack worth $30. The next clinic is scheduled for scheduled for Nov. 7. They will be held on a regular basis, and Torch plans to take his concept on the road.
Call 416-362-1068 for more info.
Rachel Malkin, before she cut off her hair.
“My hair looked fabulous,” said Malkin (aka RylandCurl on CurlTalk“> of Bethesda, Md. “People always wanted to touch it. Men went crazy over my hair.”
But early last year, she discovered that the lump in her breast was cancer.
“The surgeon looked at me with these sad, soft eyes and this gentle face,” Malkin recalled. “He put his arm around me and said ‘I’m sorry Rachel. It’s cancer.’ So life changes.”
‘All I wanted was to live.’After her mastectomy in March, she started chemotherapy — a potent blend of chemicals she would receive every two weeks for four months. In addition to eradicating her cancer, she would lose the curls she had finally come to peace with.
‘When I took a shower, there was some hair there,’ she recalled. ‘When I combed it, a little bit more hair came out. A few days later, I was doing my hair and pieces were hanging off. By that night, it was horrific. Not only was it falling out, but it felt horrific.’ ‘I always thought I’d be the one person who wouldn’t lose their hair,’ Malkin said. ‘I had so much hair.’Chemotherapy hair loss is an unfortunate, and emotionally devastating, reality that many cancer patients face. It occurs over a period of days or weeks and may include hair loss on the entire body, including eyebrows and eyelashes. There is little that can be done to prevent the hair loss.
‘This is a very difficult stage,’ said Curl Queen Ouidad, who went through cancer treatment herself. ‘I work with my clients to gradually cut their hair to the shortest length they can handle. This has a tendency to let them see themselves with a clear shape of their scalp and makes the initial shock of losing their hair easier.’
Cutting off her curls because of chemotherapy-induced hair loss was one of the hardest things Rachel Malkin has had to do. But she loves her new short, easy-to-care-for ‘do.
Then she sat outside on a freezing April day as her boyfriend took a pair of clippers and shaved her head. The inch-long style resembled GI Jane, Malkin said.
Those who choose to shave their heads should use a guard to make sure it’s not too short because the scalp can be especially sensitive.
‘When I put my head on the pillow, it felt like a bunch of needles were sticking me,’ recalled Carol Galland, founder of Headcovers.com, which sells more than 150 hats, turbans, scarves and other headcoverings for people who lose their hair. ‘I couldn’t rest my head on the pillow for three or four days.’Those thinking of getting a wig should get fitted before they start treatment so the stylist can get the best match possible. But for those who find wigs uncomfortable, there are other options.
In 1990, Galland was diagnosed with Stage II breast cancer. The cancer diagnosis, combined with the loss of her hair from treatments, was devastating. Galland, a professional hairstylist, searched for attractive head coverings, but found few options.
So when Galland’s cancer went into remission, she scoured the country looking for head coverings that were stylish, comfortable and affordable. The result of her search is Headcovers.com, which has many styles especially made for the site.
‘We try to keep up with the latest trends to offer things with flair and fashion,’ Galland said.Malkin initially thought she wanted to wear a wig, and she even toyed with the idea of getting a straight style.
‘I thought ‘I can finally get the straight hair of my dreams,” she said. ‘I tried on all these straight-haired wigs and I looked ridiculous. I looked really ordinary. I looked like everyone else. I grew up hating my curly hair, but it’s really very special.’She ended up wearing scarves instead.
‘I never really let it stop me,’ Malkin said. ‘I remember going to a wedding, putting on a snazzy scarf, some nice earrings and a little blush and I looked damned good. I could have died and this was a wedding and it was about life.’
Rachel Malkin
While going through the experience, a crucial thing to remember is that the hair will grow back.
‘I’ve never met a woman who had chemo and didn’t have her hair grow back,’ Ouidad saidRegrowth, which usually occurs six to eight weeks after treatment ends, can pose its own challenges. In many cases, the hair that grows back may be dramatically different in texture and color than the hair that was lost — at least in the short term.
In many cases, women with straight hair may have hair that comes back curly. Although not much is known about why this happens, Dr. Jennifer Griggs said the chemo affects rapidly growing cells more than slowly growing ones. Hair follicles in the scalp grow rapidly, and they are jolted by the chemo.
‘When the follicles get back to work, the shock may be enough to change their job description,’ Griggs said.Some women with curly hair may find that the new hair is straight. Over time, without further treatment, the hair follicle usually settles back into its old habits.
‘Before treatment, my hair was long, blonde and straight,’ recalled a woman on a cancer message board. ‘When it grew back, it was very curly. So I dyed it dark and it looked very similar to Betty Boop! People used to stop me in the street in amazement at how great my hair was. But after several cuts and colors, I’m back to blonde and straight. It was fun while it lasted!’When the hair returns, it is important to handle it with a great deal of TLC, said Ouidad. She recommends using a deep conditioner such as her Ouidad Deep Treatment every two weeks. This month, Ouidad is giving 50 percent of the proceeds from every sale of a specially designed pink Ouidad Deep Treatment to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.
It is also important to get a trim every 10 to 12 weeks to keeping the new growth looking its best.
As for color, it’s better to wait a while.
‘I discourage clients from color for at least six months after their chemo treatments are over to allow the hair roots to strengthen,’ Ouidad said.By July, Malkin was done with treatment and her hair began to return.
‘At the beach, the sun glinted off my head like peach fuzz,’ she said.She was going out without a scarf by the end of August. When it began to grow back, it was white blonde and totally straight for the first time in her life. She wore it in a little pixie, which she loved.,
Then the downy straight hair turned curly. And the whitish blonde turned steely gray and then dark brown. Although curly again, her hair’s texture and color both are different than they were before chemo, she said. By last December, she was wearing it in a short, curly style.
Nine months later, she has decided to keep it short. Although she misses the attention her long curls garnered her — ‘the way men turned around and stared’ — her shorter locks are much lower maintenance. She no longer obsesses about products and now buys whatever is on sale.
‘It’s soft and wonderful,’ she said of her healthy, virgin hair. ‘It turns out I don’t look ugly in short hair. I think I look good in short hair.’For those going through chemo, Malkin said it’s important to mourn the loss of their hair. But she believes the experience has also given her a renewed appreciation for her hair.
‘I’m so delighted to have hair, any hair,’ she said. ‘I would never have cut my hair without chemo. I couldn’t have imagined it. But after I was bald, I got used to my little head. So the short hair is, for me, lots of hair. An abundance of hair. A blessing of hair.’Tips for managing hair loss due to chemotherapy
Short Hair: Cut your hair short if you are expecting hair loss during chemotherapy. Since hair often does not fall out evenly, some find losing short hair is less distressing.
Wigs: If you are interested in purchasing a wig, the best time to do is before you lose any hair. This helps the stylist create the best match. Many insurance companies will pay for a wig, so be sure you have it written as a prescription from your doctor. There are wig stylists who specialize in wigs for cancer patients.
Caps and scarves: Some people find that the easiest and most comfortable options are caps and scarves. These range from those you may already own to custom items made expressly for people who are undergoing chemo. Check out www.headcovers.com.
You might also want to check with your local chapter of the American Cancer Society. They sponsor a program called ‘Look Good, Feel Better.’ the program addresses ways to tie scarves and ways to make yourself look and feel better while experiencing hair loss.
Other Hair Tips During Treatment
Use a mild, unperfumed shampoo and conditioner
Try not to wash your hair more than twice a week
Pat your hair dry rather than rubbing it.
Brush or comb your hair gently with a soft hairbrush or wide-toothed plastic comb. If you have long hair, avoid plaiting it as this may damage it.
Avoid using elastic bands to tie back long hair.
Avoid dyes, perms and other products containing strong chemicals.
Avoid products containing alcohol, such as hair spray, which can irritate the scalp.
Avoid excessive heat from heated rollers, hair dryers and hot brushes.
You may want to wear a soft hat or turban in bed to collect loose hairs.
If you decide not to cover your head, use a high protection factor sunscreen at all times because the scalp may be very sensitive.
If your scalp is dry, flaky or itchy, you can use unperfumed moisturizer or natural oils such as almond or olive oil. You may prefer to use aromatherapy oils, but it is best to consult with a trained aromatherapist.
Avoid perfumed deodorants if you have lost hair under your arms from chemotherapy because it can irritate the skin. Baby powder can be used instead.
Source: www.chemocare.com, www.breastcancercare.org.uk, and www.cancer.org
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month
This month, Ouidad is giving 50 percent of the proceeds from every sale of a specially designed pink Ouidad Deep Treatment to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.2005 marks more than 20 years that National Breast Cancer Awareness Month has educated women about early breast cancer detection, diagnosis and treatment. Mammographies are a woman’s best chance for detecting breast cancer early. When coupled with new treatment options, mammography screenings can significantly improve a woman’s chance of survival. Oct. 21 is National Mammography Day.Women who have lost their hair can choose from a variety of headwear options, available at Headcovers.com.
Before Redken comes up with a new product concept, the company does exhaustive research.
‘We look at the market, look at the competition, look at our portfolio, go to fashion shows, talk to consumers and talk to stylists,’ said Melanie Dir, senior marketing manager for global marketing-styling at Redken.
What marketing executives discovered is that 50 percent of women had curly and wavy hair. And of those, 72 percent wear their hair curly or wavy at least half of the time.
So Redken set out to create a product that was about texture — loose, luscious, frizz-free, touchable curls without crunch.
‘We went to our chemist and asked ‘How do you make something conditioning enough with a style resin and moisturizing with no crunch. Anytime you add conditioning agents, it tends to weigh down the hair. Whenever you want frizz control, style resin can create crunch. ‘We found a way to create weightless conditioning benefits and a bonding system that provides frizz control without crunch.’The result is Ringlet 07 Curl Perfector, a cream-gel designed to activate and rejuvenate curls and waves. It is designed for all curl types as well as permed hair.
The product, which will be available this month, contains ingredients such as coconut oil to control frizz, calcium for curl definition and honey for moisture.
Dir said it can be mixed with other Redken styling products for more hold or more shine. For example, Concrete can be used to provide strong, defined hold or Rough Paste for more texture.
‘Long, luscious curls are the perfect accessories,’ Dir said.
