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Making the Transition
With the help of Miss Jessie’s Salon in New York, Sharon transitioned from completely relaxed hair to completely natural.

NaturallyCurly is celebrating its 15th Anniversary this year. To show you how far we’ve come, we’re highlighting a few of your favorite articles from the NaturallyCurly archives!
Over the course of her life, Cassandria Milton has done nearly everything to her hair. She has pressed and chemically relaxed it. She has worn it in extensions and braids. It had been long and short, and every length in between.

She was 36 years old when a stylist encouraged her to go natural because of the breakage caused by the relaxer. Having tried everything else, Milton was game.

“It took me a while to get used to it,” says Milton, a Denver, Co. resident. “But I figured it would be better for my hair in the long run.”

Samya Zeigler, an 18-year-old from Savannah, Georgia, is just starting the transitioning process. After having her hair relaxed since the age of 10, she wants to go natural.

“Everyone thinks I’m weird,” Zeigler says. “But I don’t think my hair has to be straight to be pretty. I don’t feel like straight hair is the real me. Natural is the best way to be.”

Like Milton and Zeigler, a growing number of woman of all ages are transitioning to natural hair. And thanks to the wide variety of options, a wealth of new products and the growing acceptance and appreciation for natural hair, the transitioning process can be easier then ever.

Making the transition from straight to natural hair can be difficult, whether your hair be loose curls or tight kinks. It can be as challenging for someone who has blowdried their waves straight their whole lives as for someone who has chemically relaxed their hair since they were a child. It is about learning to accept the texture with which you’ve been born rather than trying to mold it into something else.

“We’re definitely seeing more people transitioning from permed hair,” says Miko Branch, co-owner of Miss Jessie’s Salon in Brooklyn, NY. “People are realizing that natural hair — whether kinky or curly — can look good.”

Making the decision to go natural can be the hardest part of the transitioning process. Many people spend years thinking about it before they ever take the leap.

T’Keyah Crystal Keymah

“When you’re used to doing one thing with your hair and you decide to do something completely different, it’s a serious transition and shouldn’t be taken lightly,” says actress T’Keyah Crystal Keymah, author of “Natural Woman/Natural Hair: a Hair Journey.” “Before you do it, you should take the time one takes with any serious transition. So many people say they tried to transition and didn’t like it. But they hadn’t really accepted the weight of what transitioning really means. If you’ve had permed hair since you can remember, you need to ask yourself why you’re doing it and what it means to you.”

Branch says she asks all clients considering transitioning if they have really thought about it.

“Although there are a lot of style options, you have to be ready for it,” she says. “It’s a big decision.”

Natural hair expert Diane Da Costa, author of “Textured Tresses,” and creator of the Tai Texture line of hair products, also encourages her clients to think long and hard about transitioning before they do it.

“If you don’t, you’ll really be in shock,” Da Costa says. “Your natural hair texture is going to be dramatically different.”

She encourages clients to look at pictures of natural styles they like, and visualize how they want to look throughout the whole process. They can wear wigs and weaves to prepare themselves mentally, and to gain confidence in their new look.

“You have to be comfortable with yourself,” Da Costa says. “You have to believe that you look gorgeous no matter how your hair looks. You are not your hair.”

Women no longer must face the “Big Chop” if they want to have natural hair. There are numerous ways to go natural, depending on the look and style you want.

“It depends on your patience and how long you want to grow the natural hair,” Da Costa says. “There are some people who want natural hair right away, and they may feel comfortable cutting their hair after a few months of new growth. Some will want their hair to be as long as it was when it was relaxed.”

A lot of women choose to wear braided extensions or weaves while they’re transitioning.

“It gives them the flexibility of not having to be concerned about styling or setting their hair when it reverts back,” Da Costa says. “You just have to make sure you condition before, during and after every session of weaves or braids.”

You also can do natural sets that create a wavy pattern using a setting lotion or mousse and some spiral perm rods. That can help hide the demarcation line between the natural and permed hair. Coils, twists and cornrows also are attractive styling options as the hair grows.

Miss Jessie’s does a non-chemical process called “shingling,” in which styling products are combed through the hair to stretch and smooth the hair and encourage curls.

Some people may flat iron the new natural hair while it’s growing out to match the permed hair. If you choose to do that, make sure you’re using moisturizing conditioners to protect the new growth.

“Some women prefer it like that always, even when their hair is natural,” Da Costa says.

Many women opt for chemical processes that loosen the curl with a softener or texturizer.

“It gives you a more controlled texture and reduces the frizziness,” Da Costa says. “You still get a curl pattern, but the look is a little closer to the relaxed hair while you’re growing it out. It’s a transition to the transition.”

Branch says Miss Jessie’s Silkener is a popular option for women who may not be completely comfortable with the transition from straight to curly or kinky hair.

“Those who need a little hand holding may look into a silkener because it gives you a shinier, smoother curl pattern,” says Branch, who has gone natural over he past year. “It’s a happy medium between completely natural and completely relaxed.”

Marsha Coulton, creator of the Curl Junkie line of products, says she has gone natural two times during her life. The first time, she transitioned gradually, chemically texturizing the new growth every three months until her hair grew to the length she wanted it. She most recently went natural three years ago, cutting her medium-length hair into a short curly afro “right off the bat.” She had two months of new growth when she did the “Big Chop.”

“It was no fuss, no muss,” Coulton says. “I think it’s the easiest way to go natural. But of course not everyone is ready for short hair.”

No matter what style you choose, the hair must be specially treated as you transition. Use gentle, moisturizing cleansers, and shampoo no more than once or twice a week.

“One of the big concerns is breakage when you’re growing out relaxed hair,” Da Costa says. “The curlier the hair, the greater the possibility of breakage.”

The two types of hair must be treated differently. The new growth should be conditioned with moisturizing products, while relaxed hair needs products with keratin, says Da Costa. She recommends herbal hot oil steam treatments, where natural botanical oils are applied to the hair and the steam from a shower or a steam room is used to help it penetrate the hair shaft.

“No matter how you condition your hair, double that while you’re transitioning,” Keymah says.

The transitioning process isn’t just about how to work with your hair. Women may get negative reactions from their mothers, grandmothers, friends and mates. Some people with relaxed hair may feel threatened by others’ decision to go natural, viewing it as criticism about their own choice to relax.

“You’ll get flack from all sides — people who question why you’re doing it and critics who don’t understand it,” Keymah says. “Even after you’re done transitioning, your natural hair may not look right to them because you look different.”

Keymah says she has lost roles because of her natural hair.

“I’ve been told by casting directors that they didn’t hire me because of my hair,” she says. “A lot of people think straight hair is pretty and nappy hair is ugly.”

But for many women, the end result has been worth the effort.

Lisa Goddard

Lisa Goddard, CurlTalker “Webjockey,” wore her hair stick straight for most of her life, except for a brief period when she sported a Jheri curl. When she moved to Austin, Texas, six years ago, she had difficulty finding a stylist who could work with her relaxed hair. She began experimenting with curlier styles, scrunching and diffusing her hair. After a Google search led her to NaturallyCurly.com, Goddard found other women transitioning from relaxers to natural hair.

“It never occurred to me not to relax,” she says. “It was just something to do, and a look I felt comfortable and familiar with.”

But with the encouragement of some other transitioning NaturallyCurly members, she decided to try it. They spent hours online comparing products, commiserating about breakage and debating when to “chop it all off.” Ten months into it, frustrated by the difference between her healthy natural hair and the weak relaxed hair, she broke out the scissors and cut away.

“Over five years later, I’m still natural,” she says proudly.

A year after her transition to natural hair, Milton says she proudly wears her hair in an afro, and she couldn’t be happier.

“I feel more confident about myself,” Milton says. “I”m not saying it’s for everyone. But I’m more comfortable this way. It’s easier, and I feel like this is how I want to express myself as a person. I don’t ever want to go back.”


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What’s Cool This Fall

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Redken is showing long hair

in a variety of colors this fall.

Every fall, Stanley of New York’s Christopher Stanley Salon has curly clients who come in to get shorter cuts.

“I always work seasonally with curly haired people,” Stanley says. “We go shorter in fall and winter and longer in spring and summer.”

Should you choose to go shorter, there are plenty of options for curly and kinky hair — from choppy bobs to short cropped cuts to sexy layers.

‘”I approach their hair differently depending on the time of year — both the cut and the color,” Stanley says.

Stanley likes to do graduated layers in the back, with short tendrils around the face — tendrils that would “drive them nuts” during the summer when the humidity is high.

“Shape is raging back,” says “Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey of Devachan Salon. “We’re seeing uneven curls — shorter shapes with some odd pieces that still look very natural.”

Redken creative consultant Rodney Cutler of New York’s Cutler Salon, who worked on Vogue’s fall “Fashion on Demand” trend report, says hot shorter styles include choppy bobs and the “French Fringe” — a soft wispy cut. These cuts that work well on curly, wavy and straight hair.

“Bobs have been around since Cleopatra,” Cutler says. “This new bob is piecey and choppy, and allows the natural texture to take control. If your hair is wavy, let it be wavy. If it’s curly, let it be curly. You don’t have to blow it dead straight. It’s a strong, fun, low-maintenance haircut.”

Curl expert Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue in New York is doing long bangs for fall with plenty of angles that frame the face and accentuate the curls.

“It’s very sexy, very feminine, with a lot of movement,” Christo says. “A lot of people with curly hair think they have to stick with hair that’s all one length. I want them to know there are a lot more options. Your style is about your face and what you can carry. I don’t want to create fashion victims.”

Leah Remacle of Avalon Salon Suites in Omaha, Nebraska, agrees that bangs will hot for curly hair this fall.

“They can look fun and sassy around the face,” Remacle says.

Austin stylist Ethan Shaw of Anne Kelso Salon believes there’s a trend toward more adventurous cuts for curls.

“The shattered edges and funky layers that have been dominating straight hair styles are now translating into less ‘perfect’ shapes for curly hair, using individual curl length to add interest and dimension,” Shaw says.

While shorter cuts are hot, long curls are always in. The look this fall is looser curls, with a strong center or side part, Cutler says.

“There’s an element of hippy chic to it,” he says. “It’s flatter at the root and curlier toward the middle and bottom.”

For very textured hair, “Textured Tresses” author Diane Da Costa says she’s seeing a lot of people cutting off their locks, opting instead for short, sassy cropped cuts.

Many designers showed various forms

of curly hair in their fall shows,

including, from top, Sari Gueron,

Atong, John Galliano and Tuleh.

Toronto stylist Jason Kearns says haircolor is an important accessory for curly hair, adding richness and dimension to those curls and kinks. This fall, rich shades of brown can add richness— from rich mochas, chocolate browns, cinnamons and chestnuts—are popular.

“Fall seems to dictate darker, warmer colors,” says Amie Zimmerman of Dirty LIttle Secret in Portland, Ore.

Subtle brown highlights are in, while chunky, in-your-face highlights are out.

“I don’t think anybody’s hair should ever shout,” Kearns says.

Massey says she’s doing a lot of multi-dimensional color, with four or five shades weaved into the ribbons — shades ranging from caramel to burgundy. Da Costa likes dark plums and shades of chocolate, with dark blonde highlights.

Blondes will have darker roots or low-lights to give the hair dimension. Cooler, white blonde is out for fall because it tends to make people look more washed out. And the harsh peroxide can dry out curly hair, making it look dull and damaged.

“Blondes want to be blondes,” Christo says. “We’re trying to make sure they’re smart blondes.”

Red is also hot for fall, but red shapes take more upkeep to keep the color vibrant.

“Anyone looking to do a red should come home with a good color-support shampoo,” Zimmerman says.

Another option is a glaze — either colorless or with a color. It is a process that can enhance the color, seal the cuticle (reducing frizz”> and boost the shine without damaging peroxides.

“Glazes are less damaging because they don’t have caustic chemicals,” Stanley says.

Whatever cut or color you opt choose come fall, it is the time to get your hair back into condition after a a summer of sun, salt and chlorine. It’s time to start a good regimen of deep conditioning treatments at least every two weeks. Cut back on shampooing—no more than twice a week—and make sure the shampoo you’re using is moisturizing and gentle.

“It’s time to de-summerize the hair,” Christo says.

Curly Hair Product Spotlight: Macú Tees

When women look at her t-shirts, Judy Hanson wants them to see themselves.

Her inspiration for Macú Tees, she says, is the urban woman. This is a woman who likes to have a good time. She wants to be comfortable, but she also wants to look sexy. The company’s slogan is “Love What you Wear.”

“The graphic calls to people from different cultures,” says the Southern California curly.

Hanson, who was born in the Dominican Republic, grew up in an artsy environment. Her sister was a painter and her brother was a graphic designer.

She dreamed of being a fashion designer. She went to the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, graduating with a degree in fashion design. She wanted to start her own business, and t-shirts seemed a natural choice.

“I wore t-shirts all the time,” Hanson says. “I wanted to create t-shirts with designs that captured my style, my environment. I wanted to create t-shirts with good quality fabric and a flattering cut.”She launched Macú in 2005 with her first design — a woman’s face.

“She has perfectly done hair, beautiful earrings and makeup to match,” Hanson says. “I get a lot of inspiration from my culture.”She now has six designs, ranging in price from $22-$26.She plans to introduce several new designs next season.In the future, she’d like to launch a sportswear line.”It’s a lot of hard work,” she says. “But it’s so fulfilling.”

Ready for a Hot New Look? Go Short!
A client recently asked curl expert Christo to cut her shoulder-length curls short.

“The first thing I asked her was when she had made the decision,” recalls Christo of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue. “I told her to go home and think about it, and to put a picture of a short haircut up on her refrigerator so she could get used to the idea.”

Two months later, the client came back.

“She was ready,” he says. “I gave her a great short haircut, and she looked like a model.”

Going short is a fun way to change your look, and a perfect way to cool down for summer. And defined, shorter shapes are hot right now, say curl stylists.

But they caution, short hair is not for everybody.

It’s a decision that must be carefully considered. Once it’s short, it can take months — possibly years — to grow out. Just think back to the TV show “Felicity,” and the stir actress Keri Russell created when she cut off her long ringlets.

“There is no ‘Plan B.'” says Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute. “Growing out a bad haircut is always a long and miserable experience, so careful consideration is a must.”

Stylists agree that not everyone looks good with short hair. An in-depth consultation is a must. Make sure your stylist is trained in cutting short hair. It’s best to get a referral from someone who has used this stylist in the past and you liked the results of their short curly hair cut. A good stylist will look at a client’s bone structure and hair type before making the decision to cut it short.

“You need to take into consideration the shape of the head, bumps, ridges, flat spots, ear size, neck length and any other facial features that need to be enhanced or camouflaged,” Torch says. “The tighter the curl, the more volume is achieved so you shouldn’t go too short.”

“I look at a woman from the feet up,” says Jason Kearns of Kearns Davidson Hair & Skin Salon in Toronto, Ontario. “If somebody is too tall or big, you can’t take the hair too short. You need the fullness and length for balance.”

Christo says he always has a long talk with a client who wants to go short. He wants to make sure he knows exactly what she wants. He pulls back their hair and looks at closely at its texture, and the structure of the face. Before he picks up the scissors, he wants to make sure that client will look good with short hair.

“If you’re looking for something fresh and new, it’s a great way to go,” Christo says. “But the stylist needs to take a big step back and see if that person can carry a short haircut before they do it. It’s a huge step. If you do it and they hate it, you end up losing a good client.”

Torch believes a woman needs a tremendous amount of confidence to carry off a short, curly hair style. To prepare yourself for how you’ll look with short hair, look in the mirror and twist your hair up. Position the hair at the length you want. Be aware that your hair may be much curlier when length is removed.

“I can tell when someone has the conviction to cut it short,” says Lorraine Massey of Devachan Salon. “If there’s any trepidation or doubt, there’s no way I’m going to cut it. I’ll tell them to think about it.”

She suggests doing a short cut in stages. Maybe she’ll cut it slightly shorter one day to see if that’s what they really want. They might come back the next day to have more taken off. One client came in with chin-length curls. Within one haircut, her hair went gradually shorter until she ended up with a “faux hawk.”

“We did it together,” Massey says. “And we ended up with a really cool shape that the client was happy with.”

Massey urges those going short to have their hair cut dry to make sure it doesn’t end up too short.

“As a stylist, you’re sculpting,” she says. “If it’s wet, you have no control over how that shape may look when it’s dry.”

There are several style options for short curls, depending on your curl type and the shape of your face. Graduated bobs look good with looser curls. For tighter curls, a stylish look is longer on top and shorter at the nape.

Torch likes to control the perimeter of the hair, allowing more “chaos on top.” He also likes to leave bangs as long as possible to frame the face, with it shorter on the sides and in back.

“My short styles are very sexy — not cute,” Torch says. “I try to maintain as much movement as possible and try to avoid those traditional short, accurate, mannish cuts that take forever to grow out.”

With a short haircut, you will probably have to adjust your products. Since dry, damaged hair has been cut off, your hair may need a lighter conditioner than the one you’ve been using.

Gels, mousses and pomades are excellent styling products on short curly hair. You probably will have to learn how to style it differently, which may take a little time to master. Have your stylist show you how to work with the new length.

“The short cut is for someone with curly hair who wants to be wash-and-go, but who also wants to be stylish,” Christo says. “You lose the flexibility of getting different looks and styles. But you also gain because your hair will be quicker and easier to style. And the good news is, hair does grow back if you don’t like it.”

Cocktailing Products: Mixing up the Holy Grail
Stylist Amie Zimmerman of Dirty Little Secret Salon in Portland recalled a curly client who showed her what she used to tame her hair.

“She came in with Dep Gel, hand lotion and coconut oil, and swore it was the only thing that would work,” Zimmerman says.

Any curly girl or stylist will tell you they have become makeshift chemists, creating their own mixtures of products in their search for the perfect solution for curls and kinks. These might include any possible combination of conditioners, gels, mousses, serums, creams and pomades. A product from one company often is mixed with products from others.

CurlTalker Velvet Paws, for example, puts on Curls Curl Enhancer Styling Lotion, followed by Curl Keeper, followed by Devacurl Angel, followed Long Lovely Locks Coco Light.

“It sounds like it would feel horribly producty, but it doesn’t at all,” she says. “It makes my hair very soft and shiny, with bouncy, defined waves and curls.”

Why do we depend on so many products to get the right look?

“The benefit of using more than one product in curly hair is that you can fine tune the texture and resilience of the curl and the shape of the style,” says Giovanni Giuntoli, a session artist for Redken. “Sometimes one product doesn’t give you all the benefits of two or three. It’s similar to giving your hair a multivitamin, compared to just a Vitamin C tablet. It helps out more.”

A favorite curl combination for Giuntoli is a mixture of Redken Glass Smoothing Serum and either a gel or Redken Guts Volume Spray Foam. He likes to follow that with a spritz of Redken Forceful Super-Strength Finishing Spray. He calls this cocktail the “Curlsmopolitan.”

“The Glass alone has no hold, but it has great shine and prevents frizz,” Giuntoli says. “The gel or Guts has medium to strong hold. The two together create a pliable consistency that is manageable and easier to use.”

Toronto stylist Jason Kearns loves to mix Joico Ice Whip with CHI Silk Infusium or ICE Gel for a crunchier curl.

“Any intelligent hairdresser is going to make cocktails,” Kearns says. “I’m a very firm believer in cocktails.”

Diedre Boone, owner of The Root of You Salon and Day Spa in Houston, which specializes in ethnic skin and hair care, says African-American and multi-ethnic women have a wide variety of hair types and one product rarely does the trick.

“The fact that their hair textures vary so dramatically, we find it necessarily to mix together different products on different people,” Boone says.

Depending on how thick, porous and kinky the hair is, she uses different concentrations of different products. A favorite combination for Boone is KeraCare Foam, which molds the hair, with Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding or Curly Buttercream, which both redefine the hair. She also likes to mix Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk with Graham Webb Making Waves for women with natural hairstyles.

“With curly hair, there are many challenges to fight,” says Ramie Roth, a session artist for Redken. “Each product fights one specific challenge. By combining products, the result is a combination of combatants for every type of challenge of curly hair, accomplishing an overall better look.”

Sometimes product cocktails may defy logic, Zimmerman admits.

“I’m always saying ‘Oh no, they’re using silicone-based, petroleum-based products with water-based products and they’ll never bond to the hair or distribute through their hair the way they want them to,” she says. “I imagine these fist fights between the water and petroleum, with the silicone waiting to wrap up the whole mess at the end. I’m a total geek!”

Zimmerman says she likes to keep her product combinations simple to prevent the ingredients from canceling each other out. She might mix MOP C-Curl with a leave-in conditioner to provide a softer hold, or a little styling gel with a straightening balm for loose, defined waves.

“I have two Kusco-Murphy conditioners I like to use together,” Zimmerman says. “One is a super-delicious smelling, light detangler with a lot of slip. And the other is a massively moisturizing, olive-leaf extract conditioner. The two together make the perfect conditioner combination.”

Some companies are catching on to this curly trend, and are responding with products meant to be mixed together. L’Oreal Professionnel is launching Hairmix by Textureline, three products designed to be used together for all types of curls and kinks. The line includes Supremesmooth smoothing cream, Spiralsplendor curl defining cream and Sublimeshine oil.

“For years, stylists have practiced blending products together to try and achieve the right formula for clients that would leave hair more manageable, soft and disciplined,” says Andrew Bartfield, L’Oreal Professionnel’s vice president of education. “All three products can be mixed to achieve the optimal level of control, moisture and shine.”


Some favorite combinations

John Paul Mitchell Systems: For fine-medium curly hair: Gloss Drops or Super Skinny Serum with Sculpting Foam or Round Trip with Super Skinny Serum. For coarse or frizzy hair: Mix a few drops of Foaming Pommade with Super Sculpt or with Super Clean Gel for more control.

Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue: a quarter size of Curlisto Structura Lotion with a nickel size of Curlisto Control II Gel. “You’re going to have a frizz-free summer.”

Lorraine Massey of Devachan Salon: I like to put half Mist-er Right and half AnGell or DevaCare Arc AnGell. You mix it in a spray bottle and then you have yourself a nice spray gel. If you like a stronger hold, add a little more AnGell.

When I go to the beach, I like to mix a concoction of 3/4 water and 1/4 Devacurl One Condition into a spray bottle.

Ramie Roth, session artist for Redken: Redken Fresh Curls Spin Control with a splash of Redken Glass Smoothing Serum, followed by Redken Fresh Curls Curl Boost.

Marsha Coulton, Curl Junkie: 3a-3b finer hair: Curl Junkie Give ‘Em Slip (use a little as a leave in”> with Coffee Coco Curl Creme. 3b thicker hair: Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Deep Fix(use a little as a leave in”> with Guava & Protein Curl Creme. 3c: Curl Junkie Intense Protection, Guava & Protein Curl Creme

Ethan Shaw, Anne Kelso Salon, Austin, Texas: Devacurl B’Leave In followed by (for finer curls”> Bumble & Bumble Tonic mixed with Bumble & Bumble fine to medium Curl Creme or (for thick hair”> followed by Bumble & Bumble medium to thick Curl Creme and Devacurl Set it Free. If certain areas don’t want to curl as much, a little Aquage Illuminating Gelade helps a lot.

Dana Grandy, Snippets Salon, Chicago Illinois: Tigi Catwalk Curls Rock Curl Amplifier with Sebastian Xtah Bondage Gel.

CurlTalker CurlyNurseJenn: ABBA Nourishing mixed with ABBA Gel Lotion

CurlTalker Mrfhnl: (For rainy, humid days”> Curl Keeper on wet hair followed by Devacurl B’ Leave In, with Devacurl Angell to top it off.

CurlTalker SuZen: Boots Curling Cream, with Curl Keeper and Jessicurl Gelebration on top of it.

CurlTalker Beaglecookie: Curl Keeper, followed by AG Re:coil and Abba Weightless gel.

CurlTalker Kimmyc: Jessicurl Rockin’ Ringlet under Devacurl Angell

CurlTalker Lushaholic: AG Re:coil and Boots Curling Cream under Batia & Aleeza Bio-Herbal Mineral Styling Gel

CurlTalker Betweenshades: Jessicurl Aloeba under Jessicurl Rockin’ Ringlets under Suave Professionals Volumizing Gel

CurlTalker OctoberBaby02: AG Re:coil mixed with Paul Mitchell Super Sculpt Styling Glaze

CurlTalker Tooj68: Honey mixed with Devacurl One Condition or Jessicurl Too Shea. Then Curl Keeper under Long Lovely Locks Curls de Light mixed with a little Devacurl Angell. For ends, I like two pumps of Devacurl B’ Leave In mixed with a spritz of Devacurl Set It Free.

CurlTalker Sweetpeacurli: AG Re:coil with Long Lovely Locks Coco Light

CurlTalker Banjocurl: Devacurl One Condition as a leave-in conditioner. Then layer Boots Curling Cream, Curl Keeper and gel-of-the-day (Devacurl Angell, Batia & Aleeza Bio-Herbal Mineral Gel, ABBA Weightless Gel”>, plop and go!

Curly Hair Product Spotlight: By Human Designs

Craig Davis has studied healthy living for the more than two decades — from “Planet Health,” his radio talk show on holistic health issues, to nutritional consulting work for companies.

His 3-year-old business, By Human Design, is a natural extension of this passion.He has hired top researchers and cosmetic formulators to create potions, elixirs and remedies made with ingredients used for centuries. The company sells Buddha Butter and Joshua Tree Lip Conditioner, with other several other skin-care products in the works.”From antiquity to the present day, natural healers have always used nature’s raw essence to benefit overall wellness and enhance personal beauty,” Davis says.

Buddha Butter is a blend of 25 healing herbs and oils from around the world, including jojoba oil, olive oil, aloe vera oil, black cumin seed oil, burdock root, ghee butter, mango butter, slippery elm bark, Turkey rhubarb root, stevia and red tea.

Black cumin seed, for example, is one of the most revered medicinal seeds in history. The seeds were found in the tomb of Tutankamun and are mentioned in the Bible, as well in the words of the Prophet Mohammed who stated that they cured everything but death itself. The seeds have been used to treat skin conditions such as acne, burns and psoriasis. Turkey rhubarb root was a favorite remedy with early physicians in Persia and Arabia and is used to relieve inflamed skin and conditions such as boils and burns. Red tea has been very effective used to treat eczema and irritated skin. Stevia eliminates dandruff and other scalp problems.

Davis says they have tinkered with the concentrations of herbs and oils in the product to find the most effective formulation — a blend that with the right pH balance to oxygenate and detoxify the skin.”It was a laborious process, but we’re more than satisfied with the outcome,” he says.Davis says he has seen people use the Buddha Butter successfully on everything from athlete’s foot to acne. Some female customers use it as a base for their makeup to protect the skin.”I’ve seen significant transformations in my own skin,” Davis says. “I’ve had a bump come up on my temple. After I apply some butter, it’s gone by the evening.

“The company’s other product, Joshua Tree Lip Conditioner, contains a blend of 13 desert extracts and exotic oils to moisturize, sooth and protect lips. It is sweetened with licorice root extract and spearmint oil.Davis believes chapped lips can affect more than your pucker.”Chapped lips provide a direct pathway for bacteria and other diseases to enter your bloodstream,” he says.

“Moisturizing and protecting your lips provides overall health and wellness when used daily. The more you put it on, the softer your lips get.”It’s only natural that Davis would pursue a career in the health and beauty industry. His father, Morrise Davis, was one of the founders of Pro-Line Haircare Co. — a 36-year-old haircare giant that has since been purchased by Alberto-Culver. The company’s product lines include Motions, TCB and Soft & Beautiful.

“It gave me a good understanding of the manufacturing process,” Davis says. “I watched them work with the chemists on such products as Comb Thru and Hair Food. I saw how to build a business.”Davis attributes his interest in wellness and herbs to his father’s death in 1978 from colon cancer. Once a huge fan of Popeye’s fried chicken, he became a strict vegan at 19, and still is very careful about the food he eats. He fasts before each seasonal change.”It was an opportunity to look at more holistic practices, and the things I needed to do to keep my body in shape and maintain wellness,” he says.

Davis has been making herbal products since he was a student at Morehouse College in Atlanta, where he studied marketing and accounting.”I’ve got 23 years of experience with my own alchemy,” he says.After college, he befriended actor Will Smith, who introduced him to the entertainment industry. Davis wrote for Smith’s “Fresh Prince of Bel-Air” as well as the “Jamie Foxx” shows. After four years of writing for TV, he wanted to pursue his entrepreneurial interests.

Now, at 41, he is devoting his energies to By Human Design. He is working on creating different variations of Buddha Butter specifically for different ailments as well as a microderm exfoliator, a toner, an aloe juice-based foaming cleanser and tinted lip balms.He says he is exactly the same age as his father was when he started Pro-Line.

“It’s a do over,” he laughs. “I think my company might surpass Pro-Line’s success. We’re working with people who are seeing their acne disappear inside of a week.”

Ditching the Itch: Lice, Dandruff and Other Scalp Conditions

It is the four-letter word that can spark fear and panic in parents.

“Lice seems to be parents’ biggest nightmare,” says Risa Bar, creator of the Fairy Tales Rosemary Repel line of anti-lice shampoos. “When they hear another kid has lice, even if their own child doesn’t show any sign of them, they’re ready to put a bunch of chemicals on their head. Just take a deep breath. It’s not the worst thing that can happen.”

Knowledge can go a long way toward preventing and treating lice, as well as the other conditions that can cause your child’s scalp to itch and flake, such as cradle cap, dandruff and eczema.

The chances are high that you will get a letter from your child’s school or camp at least once to inform you that another child in the class has lice. Head lice is one of the most common – and most dreaded – issues for young children and their parents.

Lice spread from one child’s head to the other through contact with an infested person’s clothing, brushes or other belongings. Discourage your child from sharing combs, brushes, towels or hats with friends.

Children with lice may have an itchy scalp, and may feel a sensation like something is moving in their hair. They may also have red sores on their scalp caused by scratching.

Remember that head lice is not a reflection on your child’s hygiene. In fact you should make sure not to wash your child’s hair everyday.

“Lice like clean hair, not dirty hair,” Bar says. “It’s easier for them to attach to a clean hair shaft.”

Lice make their home in human hair, nourishing themselves with blood from the scalp, holding onto the hair with hook-like claws found oat the end of their six legs. The average number of lice on a child’s head is about 10.

When looking for lice, focus on your child’s “hot spots” – the part line, the top of the head, the hairline, behind the ears and the back of the neck. They usually reside within a quarter inch of the hair shaft. Adult lice are light brown and the size of a pin head. Also look for the eggs – or ‘nits’ – which look like tiny white dots.

If you find them, there are several options, says Cozy Friedman of Cozy’s Cuts for Kids in New York, which just came out with its Boo! line of lice products.

Some believe chemical removal is best, using popular lice shampoos such as Rid or Nix.

But chemicals aren’t the only, or necessarily the desirable, solution. They actually contain the same harsh chemicals found in products like Raid Yard Guard and Black Flag Flea Ender. There is evidence that permethrin and pyrethrin, found in Nix and Rid, can trigger asthma and other respiratory problems. Some of the prescription lice products contain strong chemicals like Malathion, a harmful neurotoxin, and Lindane, a carcinogen that has been banned in California.

“It’s like spraying a pesticide on your child’s bed or car seat,” says Jim Rompel, president of Safe Effective Alternatives, which developed the popular Lice B Gone pesticide-free lice treatment seven years ago.

Rompel discovered that the number of children with head lice in America had risen to over 12 million cases, and growing every year. A big part of this rise was because head lice had developed a resistance to the pesticides (pyrethrin/permethrin”> that have been used for the last 15 years in head lice shampoos. Scientists at the Communicable Disease Surveillance Centre in Cardiff, UK discovered four out of five lice were resistant to the chemicals. And many are ineffective against the eggs, which is why it can be so difficult to get rid of lice.

With four children of his own, Rompel wondered why anyone would intentionally pour pesticides on their child’s head if they knew they could solve them without them. Using his 25 years of experience in sales, marketing and distribution of health-related products, he developed Lice B Gone and launched it in 1999. He made it in an ice cooler and sold it out of the back of a van.

“I wanted to help people fight the problem without harming their children or harming the planet,” Rompel says.

Lice B Gone is an pesticide-free, enzyme-based treatment that dissolves the lice’s exoskeletons and softens the glue that nits use to attach to the hair shaft. It is sprayed on the hair, left on for 15 minutes and then combed out with a nit comb.

It is one of several natural solutions to prevent and eliminate lice. They contain such natural ingredients as eucalyptus, sandalwood citronella oil, tea tree oil, lavender, rosemary and geranium oil. Lice don’t like the smell of these ingredients. There is documentation dating back hundreds of years of rosemary being used to cure lice.

Fairy Tales makes Lice Goodbye, a yeast enzyme that dissolves the glue that the nits use to stick to the hair. Quit Nits by Wild Child is an Australian product that contains eucalyptus, lavender and geranium oils as well as wildflower essences to kill head lice and make it easier to remove the nits.

“It’s safe, effective and cheap,” Rompel says of his product, which is recommended by the American Journal of Nursing.

As a preventative measure, comb your child’s hair with a fine-tooth comb after shampooing to lift out the lice and nits. Last year a study found those who fine-combed their wet hair were four times more likely to remove head lice than those relying on products bought at the pharmacy.

Also try using some of these natural products on a regular basis as a preventative measure. The Fairy Tale line has four Rosemary Repel products that can be help keep lice away. Lorraine Massey of Devacurl recommends using a lavender spray such as her Mist-er Right as a lice repellent. Rompel recommends parents use a product like Lice B Gone before school starts.

Mayonnaise and Vaseline also have been effectively used to kill lice. Grab a handful of mayonnaise or Vaseline and cover all of your child’s hair with it. Then cover it with a plastic shower cap to keep the mayonnaise from dripping. Leave it on for two hours to smother the lice and eggs. Then shampoo the hair thoroughly. It may take baby oil or dish soap to remove the Vaseline. Olive oil and coconut oil are also good weapons in the war on lice because they dissolve the lice’s exoskeletons.

After shampooing, rinse the hair and scalp with vinegar, which loosens the glue that holds the nit onto the hair shaft. Rinse with hot – not scalding! – water. After you’re done, check your child’s hair under good lighting to make sure the nits are gone. If you see a few more, use a vinegar wrap to further loosen the glue. Thoroughly wet a towel with a mixture of half vinegar and half water, wrap the child’s head with a towel and leave it on for an hour.

Check the hair daily for any missed nits. If one living nit remains, it could hatch and start the whole process all over again, bringing about eight new eggs per day. Every person in the house will also need to be checked. Also inform the parents of kids who your child has been in contact with, as well as the school.

Another common culprit when it comes to an itchy scalp is dandruff. Dandruff is a persistent scalp condition in which the skin cells on the head shed excessively. It may be accompanied by redness and itching. To treat, shampoo with a doctor-approved shampoo. Dandruff responds to more frequent shampooing or a longer period of lather. Rub the shampoo into the hair thoroughly, leaving the lather on several minutes before rinsing and then repeat.

A product like Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Special Shampoo or AG Hair Cosmetics Stimulating Balm also works well with dry, itchy scalp by refreshing and moisturizing the scalp with ingredients like tea tree oil, peppermint, lemongrass, menthol and aloe.

“As with any shampoo or conditioner, just be sure not to get it in your child’s eyes,” says Tatiana Jovic, spokeswoman for AG Hair Cosmetics.

It is not a serious illness, but if the dandruff persists or if the scalp becomes inflamed, see a dermatologist. It may require a prescription shampoo.

In some cases, dandruff may not actually be dandruff at all. Product buildup, which can cause itching and flakes, can be confused with dandruff.

“Sometimes kids aren’t as patient and may not rinse out their conditioner all the way,” says Christo of curl salon Christo Fifth Avenue, creator of the Curlisto Kids line of products. “They think the flakes are dandruff, but it’s not.”

Childhood eczema is another very common condition, affecting approximately 10 percent of infants and children. It can start as early as two months of age.

Eczema has two distinct components — dry, easily irritated skin and allergies. When a child with eczema is exposed to allergens, the skin overreacts and breaks out in a rash. Common culprits include laundry soap, fabric softener and bath soap.

Moisturizing is crucial to avoid dry skin. Apply moisturizing lotion or cream all over your child’s body, two to four times a day, paying extra attention to the affected areas. Many brands are formulated specifically for eczema. Select a thick, non-watery cream for better protection. Natural ingredients such as shea butter, pure lanolin, calendula cream and tea tree oil are recommended to treat eczema-type irritations. Honey B.U.N.S., a line of non-synthetic products for babies, makes an all-natural product called Honey Butter Cream, containing shea butter, cocoa butter and sweet almond butter, to combat eczema.

Give your baby lukewarm baths, and avoid adding soap. Hot and soapy water can make eczema worse, while lukewarm baths allow water to soak into the skin, moisturizing it in the process. If you need to use soap, a soap-free cleanser such as Cetaphil is recommended.

For serious flare-ups, it’s best to see a dermatologist who may prescribe a strong cortisone cream. Stop using the cream once the rash subsides.

Cradle cap — also known as seborrhoeic eczema — is a common condition for babies, usually appearing in the first few weeks after birth. It is a harmless and temporary condition characterized by yellow, greasy, scaly patches on the skin of the scalp. The same rash often is prominent around the ear or the eyebrows. Its cause is unknown.

There are several ways to treat cradle cap. Some suggest rubbing olive oil or jojoba into the baby’s scalp before bed. Comb the hair with a fine-toothed comb in the morning. When the scales have been removed, wash the baby’s hair with a mild shampoo. Bar also suggests rubbing a tear-free conditioning shampoo into the scalp, using a baby toothbrush to help melt away the flakes.

Cradle cap usually is gone by eight to 12 months, and often long before that.

As with any condition, see a pediatrician or dermatologist if it persists.


Natural Lice products

Fairy Tales Rosemary Repel Shampoo

Fairy Tales Rosemary Repel Creme Conditioner

Fairy Tales Rosemary Repel Styling Gel

Fairy Tales Rosemary Repel Leave-in Conditioning Spray

Devacurl Mist-er Right

So Cozy Boo! Shampoo

So Cozy Boo! Leave-in Spray Conditioner

Lice B Gone

Rosemary essential oil

Lavender essential oil

Wild Child Quit Nits Treatment

Wild Child Quit Nits Preventative

Wild Child Head Lice Control Styling Mud

Nitmix Wet Combing Aid

Nitmix Ultra Fine Comb

Pure Nitmix Daily Spray

Lice Arrest


Facts About Lice

Head lice (pediculus humanus capitis”>

1. Lice are about the size of a sesame seed and are light brown in color.

2. Lice do not jump or fly.

3. Head lice has nothing to do with cleanliness. In fact, lice prefer clean, healthy heads.

4. Lice usually are transmitted by direct head to head contact with an infested person or their belongings.

5. The most common symptom of head lice infestation is persistent itching, particularly around the ears, back of the neck and crown.

6. Head lice can live off a human head for up to 48 hours and live on a head for approximately 30 days.

7. Nits are tiny white to light gray colored eggs that attach to one side of the hair shaft and do not come off easily. That is how you know the difference between nits, dandruff or dried gel.

8. Lice are most common in children five to 12 years old because of their play habits.

9. It takes seven to 10 days for a nit to hatch, and another seven to 10 days for the female to begin laying her own eggs.

10. Whatever technique you choose, you will most certainly need to manually remove nits by combing.

11. Make sure you wash everything that has come into contact with your child – pillowcases, sheets, towels, brushes, etc.

12. Off their human host, head lice will starve.

Sources: Headlice.org and dermatology.about.com


For more information about lice, check out this FAQ from the Harvard School of Public Health.

Summerizing Your Curls

Product suggestions

Shampoos

DevaCare No-Poo

Curlisto Aqualizer

Elucence Volume Clarifying Shampoo

Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo

Curly Hair Solutions Treatment

AG XtraMoist

Curl Junkie Hibiscus Bliss Moisturizing Shampoo

CurlFriends Purify Clarifying Shampoo

Jessicurl Hair Cleansing Cream

Mop Top Gentle Clarifying Shampoo

Ojon Ultra Hydrating Shampoo

Ojon Detox Recovery Cleanser

Yanai Van Color Retention System Sulfate-Free Shampoo

Conditioners

AG Ultramoist

Cutler Intensive Conditioner

DevaCare One Condition

Mop Top Daily Conditioner

Redken UV Rescue After-Sun Conditioner

Dove Advanced Care Therapy Conditioner

Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Daily Treatment

Leave-in Conditioners

AG Fast Food

Curl Junkie Intense Protection Leave-in Conditioner

CurlFriends Replenish Leave-in Conditioner

Curlisto Repair Styling Cream

Curly Hair Solutions Silk Leave-in Conditioner

Devacurl B’ Leave In

Hamadi Shea Leave-In

Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner

Yanai Van Curl CurlHeal Fortifying Leave-in Conditioner

Redken Fresh Curls Spin Control

Redken UV Rescue Daily Sun Milk protective Moisturizer

Redken UV Rescue Brunette and Blonde Guard color-saving swim cream

Samy Curls Re-energizing Potion

Deep Conditioners

AG Deep Reconstructing Treatment

Blended Beauty Herbal Reconditioning Treatment

Redken UV Rescue Recovery Treat

Curl Junkie Banana & Hibiscus Deep Fix Moisturizing Conditioner

Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque

Elucence Extended Moisture Repair Treatment

Hamadi Shea Masque

Jessicurl Weekly Deep Conditioning Treatment

PhytoSpecific Revitalizing Treatment

MyHoneyChild Olive You Deep Conditioner

Redken All Soft Heavy Cream

Paul Mitchell The Masque

Styling Products

AG Re:coil

Blended Beauty Curly Frizz Pudding

Curl Junkie CoffeeCoco Curl Creme

Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper

CurlFriends Control Gel

CurlFriends Tame Smoothing Serum

Curlisto Bio-Gel Mousse

Curlisto Control I

Cutler Curling Cream

Elucence Silk Hydrating Elixer

Long Lovely Locks Ginger Gel-O

Mop Top Anti-Frizz Gel

Ojon Hydrating Styling Cream

Oyin Handmade Shine & Define Styling Serum

Yanai Van CurlAppeal Smoothing Glimmer Glaze

Tigi Curls Rock Curl Amplifier

Tigi Fashionista Big & Bigger Volumizing Foam

Pantene Pro-V Frizz Control-Seal

Paul Mitchell Sculpting Foam

Paul Mitchell Foaming Pomade

Finishing Products

Devacurl Set It Free

Curlisto Unruly Paste

Philip Pelusi Mod Di Phy Forming Wax

Curl Junkie Liquid Pomade

Curlisto Structura Spray

Redken Vinyl Glam

Curl Refreshers

Curl Junkie Curly Boost Curl Enhancing Spray

CurlFriends Rejuvenate Texturizing Mist

Jessicurl Awe Inspiraling Spray

Mop Top Herbal Detangler & Refresher

Blended Beauty Kick for Curls Aloe Juice Spritz

Curlisto Protein Boost

Devacurl Mist-er Right

Ojon Revitalizing Mist

PhytoSpecific Integral Hair Care

Wella SP Curl Refresher

Tigi Curls Rock Curl Booster

Joico k-Pak Curl Revitalizer

Bain de Terre Recovery Complex Anti-Frizz Curl Revitalizer Spray

Kerasoft Revival Curl Revitalizer

Ouidad Summer Shield Beach/Pool Spray

Redken Fresh Curls Curl Boo

Every summer, curlies have a love/hate relationship with the weather.

Warmer temperatures mean sandals, sundresses and trips to the beach. But the hot weather also comes with frizz-inducing humidity, damaging chlorine and color-fading UV rays.

Summer doesn’t have to mean out-of-control curls and kinks. There are some steps you can take to keep your hair looking good throughout summer.

Humidity actually can work to your benefit if you know how to take advantage of it. Those who want to wear their curly will have more curl. The biggest challenge is keeping those curls while controlling volume and preventing frizz.

“I think the haircut is the most important thing,” says Canadian stylist Jason Kearns, who owns Kearns-Davidson Salon & Skincare Spa in Toronto.

Find a style that works with your natural texture rather than fighting it. If you’ve been getting regular blowouts, it may be time to get a style that plays up your curls.

“It’s so much easier to work with what your hair does naturally,” says Keith Register, regional educational director for Toni & Guy.

Make sure you get regular trims: six to eight weeks for short hair and eight to 10 weeks for longer hair. That will help maintain the curls and eliminate frizzy, dry ends.

More than any other time of year, proper maintenance is crucial to keeping your locks looking their best.

“You need to make sure you’re using the right shampoos and conditioners,” Register says.

Make sure not to shampoo more than once or twice a week, and use a moisturizing shampoo that’s low in detergent.

If you swim a lot, make sure to rinse your hair with water before taking a dip, and put a little leave-in conditioner on it. This helps prevent the hair from absorbing the damaging chlorine. If you can bear it, wear a bathing cap. Periodically, use a shampoo designed to remove chlorine and mineral buildup.

“Keep a leave-in conditioner in your beach bag so that you can spray some on immediately after you rinse it out,” says Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue, a New York salon specializing in curly hair.

Moisture is essential throughout the summer months. Remember that a wet sponge doesn’t absorb water, and humidity is nothing more than moisture in the air.

Deep condition on a weekly basis to restore moisture to sun-parched curls. If you’re not currently using a leave-in conditioner, add it to your daily regimen. In addition to locking in moisture, it can be a powerful frizz deterrent. Many contain UV protection as an added bonus.

The proper styling products can make a big difference in the summer, preventing curls from turning into frizz. Defining creams, mousses and gels all are good options during the summer, depending on your hair type. Gels and mousses work best with wavier, finer hair while styling creams and butters are a good option for coarser, kinkier textures. Keep a good frizz definer or pomade in your bag.

Apply styling products when the hair is soaking wet, making sure to coat all of the hair. Christo divides the hair into three sections, and distributes the product first to the back, then to the sides, and finally to the top layer.

“That insures that every hair receives the benefit of the product,” Christo says.

Jonathan Torch of Curly Hair Solutions and the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto suggests bending over with your hair hanging down when you apply the styling product. With some “squishing,” it helps create more defined ringlets with a deeper “S” formation.

Allow your hair to dry without touching it. You can blot it with a micro-fiber towel, which removes excess moisture without roughing up the cuticle.

“Remember the cardinal rule of curly hair: The more you play with your curls, the bigger your hairstyle expands,” says Torch.

When the surface is dry, you can finish by using a blow-dryer with a diffuser. You can always reactivate your curls by wetting your hands and running them through your hair. To keep the curls looking good, finish off by putting a dab of pomade in your hands, rubbing them together and then running them through your hair, from the crown to the ends. If you develop a fuzzy halo throughout the day, repeat the process, focusing on the hairline.

When it comes to color, reds can be more challenging in hot weather because they tend to fade quickly. And remember that the lighter you go, the drier your hair will feel. Use sun protectors when you’re outside, whether it be a styling product with UV protection or a hat.

If you find yourself on the losing end of humidity, there are some fun styles that can keep your curls looking good. Christo suggests braids or a fun part, such as diagonal or zig zag. Always keep a barrette, hair pins and fun clips in your purse as a Plan B.

“With a few pins, you can whip it off your neck,” Kearns says.

Tips to Care for Your Hair in the Summer

1. At the beginning of the summer, make a trip to the salon to remove split ends. Be religious about trims throughout the summer.

2. Wear a hat or scarf at the beach or pool.

3. If you normally use a blow-dryer or flat iron, give your hair a break during the summer months. Consider letting your hair air dry.

4. Avoid products that contain alcohol or formaldehyde, which can dry out hair.

5. Wash your hair less during the summer months. Instead, wet and condition.

6. If you find yourself without a hat at the beach, comb a little sunscreen through your hair.

7. Deep condition at least once every other week.

Curly Hair Product Spotlight: Anita Grant

Anita Grant uses heathful ingredients such as papaya, in her products, which include Shampoo Bars, Whipped Butter and Creamy Cafe Latte.

Three years ago, as Anita Grant was getting ready for a job interview, she poured some hair lotion into her hands.

“They started to burn,” Grant recalls. “In a matter of minutes, blisters began popping up all over my hands. I was seriously freaking out.”

She made it to the interview, but ended up in the hospital with a serious allergic reaction to propylene glycol, a chemical solvent commonly used to absorb extra water and to maintain moisture in certain medicines and cosmetics.

“When I was sitting in the hospital, I began to ask myself some questions: Why am I here? Why didn’t I look at the ingredients? What do these ingredients do?” she says. “As soon as I got home, I decided I was going to make my own product.”

So began her obsession with ingredients — a fascination that has spawned her 7-month-old Anita Grant line of natural hair and skin-care products. On this particular evening, Grant was getting ready to mix up some of her Rhassoul Deep Condish and her Creamy Cafe Latte in her kitchen, in her home outside London. Early the next morning, she would start making some of her Whipped Butter. Her products all contain natural ingredients such as Brazilian and African butters, virgin coconut oil and coffee oil.

“It’s all very, very fresh,” Grant says.

Her products were created after several years of scouring books about ingredients and learning about their beneficial properties for hair and skin. She would wander the aisles of grocery and beauty stores, picking up bottles and studying the ingredients. Once she was kicked out of a store when she spent too long reading the labels.

The timing was ideal for Grant to begin experimenting with ingredients because she had just begun transitioning to natural hair — a decision spurred by her trip to the hospital and her newfound knowledge about chemicals.

Grant began mixing up hair products for herself, swapping ingredients and recipes with women on natural hair Web sites around the world. Grant realized she could make a business out of her obsession when these women began asking to buy some of her own homemade concoctions.

“They started putting ideas into my head,” she says.

Grant had worked in technology, but was more than ready to make a career change. She found herself working on her Web site and her business plan at work. She quit that job, and on Dec. 5 launched Anitagrant.com. She started her business with the Whipped Butter, her Creamy Cafe Latte and her Rhassoul Deep Condish. The line now includes three organic oils (watermelon, papaya and marula”>, five organic herbs (lavender flower, nettle leaf herb, blue malva, chamomile and horsetail”>, Pure Shaving Oil for Men, Handmade Shampoo and Exfoliating Bars, Virgin Mango Butter Coconut Whip, organic rose petals & buds and her popular Lippy Puckers.

“I am having a lot of fun,” she says of her new endeavor.

Grant says her Web site isn’t just about the “goodies” she sells, but also includes useful information, such as tips and tricks to help people whip up natural hair products themselves with ingredients in their own kitchen — whether it be honey or yogurt.

One day, Grant says she would love to have her own store, with a workshop in the back where she can mix up her creations. She would like her customers to be able to call in their orders and then pick them up fresh later that day.

“That would be my ideal situation,” she says.

Grant says she is excited about the growing momentum for natural hair, which she sees in Europe as well as the United States. She cites the popularity of natural hair Web sites and the proliferation of conferences for natural hair as proof of this growing acceptance for curly, kinky hair.

“When I go anywhere in London and wear my hair in an afro puff, I get looked at by both curly and straight-haired people,” she says. “They look at me with a mixture of curiosity and admiration. That’s the vibe I get.”

Summerizing Kids’ Skin and Hair

School is out. And for kids around the world, summer means hours of fun in the sun.

But harsh ultraviolet rays, chlorine and saltwater can wreak havoc on a child’s hair and skin. That’s why it’s so important to take steps to protect your child from the elements.

Skin damage is a major concern during summertime. Most children rack up between 50 percent and 80 percent of their lifetime sun exposure before age 18. And UV rays are strongest during the summer months. Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the country, and doctors are diagnosing it in much younger people.

With the right precautions, you can greatly reduce your child’s chance of developing skin cancer. Unprotected sun exposure is even more dangerous for kids with moles, those with very fair skin and hair, and those with a family history of skin cancer.

Try to avoid the strongest rays of the day — normally between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Teach your child the shadow rule: If your shadow is shorter than you are, the sun is high in the sky and the UV rays are intense.

Whenever your child is outside, always be sure to apply protective, waterproof sunscreen — the highest SPF you can find — about 30 minutes before you go outside so that a good layer of protection can form. Don’t forget hands, ears, feet, shoulders and the back of the neck. Lift up bathing suit straps and apply sunscreen underneath them.

American Cancer Society Recommends

1. Slip! on a shirt.

-wear protective clothing when you are out in the sun.

2. Slop! on sunscreen.

-with an SPF of 15 or higher.

3. Slap! on a hat

-it should shade the face, neck and ears.

4. Avoid midday sun

-plan activities accordingly

Reapply it often — every 2 to 3 hours, as recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology. Keep an extra bottle of sunscreen in the car and your handbag.

Sun-protective clothing can help protect children from the negative effects of the sun. Sun-protective fabrics typically have a tighter weave or knit, and usually are darker in color. Garments with a rating over SPF 50 offer the most sun protection. Get your child a good hat with a brim to protect their head and face from the sun. This also protects the hair from harsh ultraviolet rays.

Children younger than six months old should be kept out of the sun as much as possible.

Get your child some sunglasses. Sun exposure can damage the eyes. Even one day in the sun can result in a burned cornea, and cumulative exposure can lead to cataracts later in life. Purchase sunglasses with 100 percent UV protection.

Sunburn isn’t the only hazard of a day outside. Heat-related illnesses, such as heat exhaustion, also are a hazard when the temperatures rise. They can occur when your kids become overheated and dehydrated. Call your child’s doctor if your child has an unexplained fever higher than 102 degrees, if they feel nauseous, if they faint or if they’re delirious.

Although hair doesn’t technically get sunburned, it also needs tender loving care to protect it from the ravages of heat, humidity and chlorine.

Get your child’s hair trimmed at the beginning of summer. Then plan on getting another trim at the end of the summer to snip off any dry, damaged ends.

In terms of haircuts, Cozy Friedman of Cozy’s Cuts for Kids in New York suggests buzz cuts for boys during the summer.

“Buzz cuts are the best heat buster around, and they look so cute on the little ones,” Friedman says.

For older boys who want a little style, they can leave the top a little longer and spike it with some styling gel.

When it comes to girls, it’s best to go either long or short. Anything in between can be a challenge because it reduces styling options.

With long hair, it can be pulled off the face with ponytails, braids, headbands and other hair accessories. Long layers are recommended for curly or wavy hair. Short curly styles are a fun and easy look for summer that keep the hair off the face and accentuate the curls.

“With girls with curls, I like doing short bobs,” says Brigitte Pratt of Lulu’s Cuts & Toys in Brooklyn, NY.

To keep short curly styles looking their best — and to ward off frizz — put a little gel or styling cream into the hair. In addition to defining the curls, it provides some protection from the sun.

Stay away from harsh shampoos, especially baby shampoo, which can be very drying. Instead, shampoo once or twice a week with a moisturizing shampoo. On the other days, rinse and condition. Leave-in conditioners are especially good for summer because they help reduce frizz provide sun protection.

“A good detangler is essential if they’re in the pool and sun a lot,” says Melinda Dansby of Yam’s Childrens Hair in Evans, Ga. “It conditions in addition to keeping the tangles away.”

To protect against chlorine — the No. 1 cause of broken, damaged hair — there are some quick and easy steps you can take. Make sure your child rinses her hair with water before going into the pool. Then comb a little leave-in conditioner into the hair.

“When it’s wet, it won’t absorb so much chlorine,” says Pratt.

If your child is in the pool a lot, make sure he or she uses a shampoo especially for swimmers, to remove chlorine. There are many available just for children.

There is scientific proof that curly girls and boys do have an advantage in the summer. Curly hair is raised above the scalp, and can actually permit wind eddies to cool the head, according to Desmond Tobin of Bradford University in England.


Shampoos

Fairy Tales Lifeguard Clarifying Shampoo

Blended Cuties Silky Swirls Shampoo

Fuzzy Duck Kid’s Gentle Shampoo

Devacurl No Poo

So Cozy Green Apple Swimmer’s Shampoo

L’Oreal 2-in-1 Shampoo

California Baby Swimmer’s Defense Shampoo & Bodywash

Detanglers

Blended Cutie Satin Style Detangler

Circle of Friends Abebi’s Safari Detangler

So Cozy Fruity Delight Detangler & Leave-in Conditioner

Devacurl Mist-er Right

Johnson’s No More Tangles Spray-on Detangler

Conditioners

Circle of Friends Dragon Dance Conditioner

Curlisto Kids Detangle Rinse

Fairy Tales Detangling Conditioner

Fuzzy Ducks Kids Conditioner

So Cozy So Sweet Strawberrry Conditioner

Devacurl One Condition

Leave-in Conditioners

Blended Cutie Curls & Swirls

Circle of Friends Maya Papaya Leave-in Conditioner

Curlisto Kids Leave-in Conditioner

Fairy Tales Energizing Leave-in Conditioner

Fuzzy Duck Detangler & Refresher Spray

Styling Products

Fairy TalesCurly-Q Natural Curl Maker Gel

Fuzzy Duck Anti-Frizz Gel

So Cozy Groovy Grape Alcohol-Free Styling Gel

So Cozy Kooky Kiwi Styling Cream

Skin Product Suggestions for Kids

Aubrey Organics Natural Sun SPF 25 Green Tea Protective Sunscreen

The Body Perfect 4 Kids Saturn Sludge Sunscreen

Circle of Friends Weather Lip Balm

Banana Boat Kids Sunscreen Stick

Alba Botanica Kids Sunscreen SPF 30+

Ombrelle Kids Cream SPF 60

Aloe Gator Lil Gator Kids SPF 40+

Circle of Friends Surf Sunscreen SPF 30+

Curly Hair Product Spotlight: Marsha Coulton

Armed with an MBA in international business in 1997, Marsha Coulton dove head first into the business world.

Over the next few years, her many jobs included a trader on Wall Street, an analyst for one of the nation’s largest retailers, a computer consultant at a global tech company and a career counselor with an Ivy League graduate school.

“I was jumping around to different jobs because I wasn’t particularly happy,” says the creator of Curl Junkie, a new line of products for curls and kinks. ” I was doing what I thought I should be doing. But since I was 12, I’d known I wanted to do hair.”

One day she was complaining about her own hair to her mother, who asked “Why don’t you go to beauty school?”

Coulton says she always felt like she was expected to pursue a high-powered career. So her mom’s suggestion to go after her dream was a breath of fresh air.

The timing was perfect because Coulton was just embarking on her own hair journey after decades of relaxing her hair.

“I wanted to see what my natural hair looked like since I hadn’t seen it since I was 8 or 9,” she says.

She found NaturallyCurly.com, and was inspired to cut off her long, relaxed locks. But she struggled with how to take care of her newly shorn kinky curls. She found that most newly natural people struggled with the same issues.

In 2004, Coulton started beauty school at the Carsten Institute in New York. From the beginning, her whole emphasis was curly hair. But beauty school, she says, was a bit of an eye opener.

“I saw that the push was to straighten out curly hair,” she says. “It wasn’t about working with the curl.”

She graduated last year and went to work at the Sam Wong Hair Studio in Manhattan. The salon had gained a reputation for its hair treatments using essential oils. Essential oils had long been a hobby of hers, and the job motivated her to learn more.

She began studying different ingredients, and she began developing her own hair concoctions. She spent hours each day on research, and her kitchen resembled a chemistry lab.

“I set out to make products for me and my fellow curlies,” Coulton says. “It helped that I hadn’t found my ‘Holy Grail’ product, and I wasn’t satisfied with the products that I had to use on my curly-headed clients.”

She tested her concoctions on mannequins, herself, her family and friends, and finally her clients. When clients began asking to buy them, she knew she had the makings of a successful line.

In February, she launched Curl Junkie. The collection includes more than 20 products, all made from the finest essential oils, gentle cleansers, botanicals and conditioning agents. The line is broken down by curl type, with products for thick and luscious, fine, and dry and damaged hair.

Coulton is developing a number of new products, including products for type 4a and 4b hair. This month, she has introduced two new curl cremes, Guava & Protein Curl Creme and Guava Curl Creme.

Although she’s getting numerous requests from distributors an wholesalers, Coulton says she wants to keep the line exclusive to maintain a high level of quality and service.

“Hopefully, Curl Junkie will meet the needs of most curly hair product junkies out there,” Coulton says.

Although Coulton got a relatively late start in the beauty industry, she says she has no regrets.

“I wouldn’t have done this if I hadn’t gone through all the things I’ve gone through,” she says. “I knew this was my calling for a while, but I was just fighting it. I really feel like this is what I should be doing.”

Coulton’s Curl Junkie products are available in CurlMart.

Curly Kids in the Media

The Children’s Place features several curly kids in its advertising.

Flip through your newest catalog or page through a parenting magazine and you’ll see them everywhere: young boys and girls with flowing waves, fluffy afros and tight ringlets.

Curls, kinks and coils, once all but ignored by the media, now are celebrated by such companies as GapKids, Nordstrom and Children’s Place. No longer is there one homogeneous version of beauty.

“We are using all types of models with all different features, curly hair being one of them,” says Jodi Barone, vice president of creative services for Children’s Place. “There is more awareness and more acceptance of all types of beauty.”

We say it’s about time!

“I think it’s great to see more and more curly hair everywhere,” says Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue, a curly salon in New York. “At least 70 percent of the public has wavy to curly hair. Why not have curly kids in ads to make it look real and convincing?”

“I think it’s amazing,” says Lorraine Massey, author of “Curly Girl” and creator of the Devacurl line of curly products.

Advertisers are picking up on demographic changes that have transformed our society. With more mixed marriages and blending of cultures, today’s youth are more diverse than ever. Companies want to make sure they include images that a wide range of kids can relate to rather than the one-size-fits-all approach they once took.

Nordstrom uses curly models.

“There are many more models to choose from with many different looks and features,” Barone says. “The modern concepts of beauty have broadened the spectrum of what is considered ‘beautiful,’ enabling us to incorporate all types of great-looking kids into our media, advertising and photography.”

Today, the general market is the intra-cultural market, Stephen Palacios, executive vice president of consulting firm Cheskin, told “Advertising Age.”

“We argue that if you don’t have a response to that, it’s a problem,” Palacios says.

Kids today are doing more to celebrate their individuality — whether in the way they dress or the way they wear their hair. They don’t want to be put in “neat little boxes from a demographic standpoint,” Que Gaskins, vice president of global marketing for Reebok International’s RBK collection of footwear, told “Advertising Age.”

They now have a tendency to incorporate attitudes and traditions of cultures other than their own into their identity — a trend called “interculturalism.”

It is a positive development that should help curly kids feel better about their natural texture rather than fighting it for decades. A child’s self image is greatly affected by the media, and having more curly kids provides positive reinforcement that their natural hair is beautiful.

“A child or adolescent can become confused and preoccupied with the perceptions that others may have of him or her, becoming self-conscious about traits such as curly hair,” says child psychologist Dr. Mary Lamia, who hosts Kid Talk with Dr. Mary on Radio Disney. “To make matters worse, peers may be prone to teasing that chid. A child’s identification with role models in the media who have similar traits, such as curly hair, can lead to an alteration in the way that child sees him or herself, and can help the child develop an adequate, as well as desirable, self-image.”

While Massey says she’s encouraged by the trend, she believes there’s still a long way to go.

“It’s not mainstream yet,” she says. “It’s acceptable when they are kids. But as they get older, many are still fighting it. Just look at Shirley Temple. Whatever happened to her curls?”

Perfecting Interview Hair

It’s graduation time for college students around the country. Some may already have job prospects, while others may just be starting their interview process.

For those with curls and kinks, figuring out how to do their hair can add a another level of stress. But you can have curls and coils and still look professional, say top curl experts.

“Curly hair doesn’t need to be straight, but it has to look like effort has been put in,” says Jonathan Torch of the Curly Hair Institute in Toronto, Canada. “When you’re going to a job interview — from the shoes to the hair — neatness counts. You have to tame your frizz better than you’ve ever done. The way people are dressed reflects their habits. First impressions are lasting.”

Finding a good hairdresser is as important as getting your resume professionally done, says Torch. The hairdresser can provide ideas on how to wear your hair — easy styles that you can do yourself at home.

Whatever style you choose, the hair should be away from the face, according to John T. Molloy, author of “Dress for Success.” It’s no secret that in corporate America, success can hinge on one’s willingness to adapt to a company’s culture. Always err on the side of conservative.

Many African-American women have felt pressure to perm their hair to fit in. But that’s not neccessary, Deloitte & Touche’s Chief Diversity Officer Redia Anderson recently told Diversity Inc. As long as it’s neat and clean, it should not be a problem, says Anderson, who wears her curly hair in a short Afro style.

“I definitely think you should wear your hair in its natural state, whether it’s curly or coily,” says Diane Da Costa, author of “Textured Tresses.” “But definitely wear it a little more conservatively. Big hair can scare people, especially in conservative positions.”

“If you usually wear it big and out, you might want to pull it back or up in a twist,” Da Costa says.

Cypriano of Christo Fifth Avenue likes styles where the hair is worn half up, with a pretty clip to hold it back. If you have bangs, pull them off your face with some pretty bobby pins or clips. Hair bands also can look professional. If one or two ringlets fall down, they must be used as an accessory.

On the day of the interview, make sure to give yourself extra time, says Lorraine Massey, author of “Curly Girl” and co-owner of the Devachan Salon in New York.

“I would definitely get up earlier that morning,” she says.

When it comes to products, deep condition the night before so that your hair is in optimal shape. After showering, don’t use a towel. Instead blot the hair with a microfiber towel or with paper towels.

Use a little extra styling product to make sure you get frizz-free curls. When the hair is dry, rub a little pomade in your palms and run it through your hair.

“Curly hair can look great,” says Jason Kearns with Kearns Davidson Hair & Skin Salon. “The thing is to make it look curly rather than frizzy.”

Make sure your hair is dry when you walk into the interview. Damp hair can make you look ill-prepared.

Ultimately, confidence is key to a successful job interview.

“We can’t treat our curls like they’re a disability anymore,” Massey says. “They’re not! The rest is you — your spirit, your enthusiasm, your positivity,” she says.


While this woman’s hair is

perfectly acceptable for a job interview,

her outfit isn’t.

How to Dress for a Job Interview

1. Call the receptionist or secretary at the prospective employer’s office for tips on what employees wear.

2. Consider the job’s location. If it’s a library in a strip mall, you can wear sweater and slacks. At a corporate office, wear a conservative business suit. A pantsuit might work best in a creative field.

3. Choose between closed-toe shoes, pumps and loafters.

4. Avoid miniskirts, tight sweaters, sloppy overalls and sandals with straps.

5. Check your outfit for holes, tears, stains, scuffs or wrinkles.

6. Tone down the use of makeup, perfume and jewelry. One nose ring is one too many may cost you the job of your dreams.

7. Inspect your nails, hems and the shine on your shoes.

8. Trendy is fine, as long as you keep your style subtle.

9. It’s best to carry a briefcase or portfolio into an interview rather than a purse.

Sources: eHow, About.com


How to Behave

Take your tone from the interviewer. Some will be very formal, while others prefer a relaxed approach.

Make good eye contact, but don’t stare.

Smile where appropriate.

Don’t sit down until you are asked.

Look alert and sit upright and try to relax.

Rest your hands either on the table or in your lap, which creates an impression of composure.

Don’t eat or smoke, even if invited. Do accept coffee, tea or water if you want to.

Answering questions

You will be asked to expand on the contents of your application and resume. You also will be asked about your previous work experience.

Listen carefully and concentrate, and don’t interrupt.

Show interest and enthusiasm.

Talk slowly and clearly.

Keep your answers clear and to the point and avoid talking for too long.

Take time if necessary before answering a question or ask for clarification if you are unsure of the meaning.

Don’t be afraid to admit if you can’t answer the question.

Don’t criticize your current employer or reveal confidential information.

Be honest.

Find opportunities to sell yourself, relating your skills to the job. An employer is looking for determination, enthusiasm and a willingness to learn.

Concentrate on positive words, such as “enjoy” and “enthusiastic.”

Golden Rule No. 1

:

Don’t be late! Allow plenty of time for the trip, and plan to arrive at least 10 minutes early. If you are held up, phone ahead and let them know. Do a trial run if necessary to see how long it takes and to check out parking availability.

Source: First 4 Recruitment

Zen and the Art of Curly Hair

When you go for a haircut with Michael Motorcycle, it’s only the beginning.

“It ain’t just a haircut,” says the Dallas stylist, whose real name is Michael Koler. “It’s much deeper than that. You get feng shui’d. I realign you with the universe. I give you a new beginning on life. I change your soul.”

Welcome to the world of Motocycle, a philosopher, Zen practitioner and curly hair expert who cuts hair according to the ancient Chinese philosophy of Feng Shui. To him, that means determining your dominant and passive elements — in the Chinese bagua there are five: fire, metal, water, wood and earth — and creating a cut and color that fits your lifestyle. The right cut, he believes, can enhance your positive energy and bring back harmony in your life.

Motorcycle counts clients such as Jerry Hall and her model daughter, Elizabeth Jagger, as well as many of Dallas’ executives and society dames.

“Michael gets rid of all your negativity and sorrow when he cuts your hair,” Hall has said of a Motorcycle haircut.

Motorcyle is the pioneer of a growing movement, with a small number of hairdressers around the world incorporating Zen philosophies into their salons. Feng Shui hairdressing promises not only to create the perfect ‘do but to balance your “yin and yang.”

L.A. hairstylist Billy Yamaguchi, for example, wrote “Feng Shui Beauty.” And Benu spa and salon in Dallas asks clients to fill out a questionnaire to be analyzed using elements of the bagua. From the answers, the stylist determines if you’re going to need a blunt or a funky cut, highlights or lowlights. Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue had a feng shui consultant help him design his New York salon. And Austin stylist David Moreno compares cutting curly hair to cutting a bonsai tree, looking at positive and negative space as he creates a shape.

In its original form, feng shui — meaning wind and water — is the Chinese art of arranging buildings and interiors to maintain spiritual equilibrium. feng shui hairdressing works on the principle that your hair should be styled in harmony with what it reveals about the roots of your personality.

How Koler came to become a feng shui hairdresser is a long and exotic tale, stretching from a Las Vegas air force base to a hippie commune outside Chicago to the tony salons of Paul Mitchell and Vidal Sassoon, to the beaches of Mexico to the foothills of Tibet, to a posh Dallas neighborhood.

Motorcycle first considered cutting hair after graduating from high school 40 years ago. He opted for the Air Force instead and studied electronics and hydraulic at a base in Las Vegas. While working there, he met girls going to beauty school and thought he’d like to do that. But again, he put the idea on the back burner.

After a brief stint in college, he got a job a large industrial company. When he was fired by a jealous foreman, he says “it was time to get off the merry-go-round.” Friends took him to a commune outside Chicago, where he “dropped out. No credit cards, no suits, no Cadillacs.” After he was arrested for a misdemeanor, he was given a choice — get a job or go to school.

He opted for beauty school, and hasn’t looked back.

“I loved it,” he says. “I never missed a day and became obsessed with it. I drove my teacher crazy. I’d ask so many questions that he’d lock himself in the office.”

To learn more, he trained with Paul Mitchell and Vidal Sassoon. After working six months at the Chicago Vidal Sassoon salon, he was recruited to open up a salon for the famed stylist in Dallas in 1973.

He left Vidal Sasson to work at Aki, a salon with Japanese owners. It was there that he Motorcycle got his first taste of Oriental philosophy. He read books on Taoism and Zen, which he says “gave me new eyes and ears and showed me a new reality. It’s better than any drug.” He studied Tao Chi in the foothills of Tibet at the Palace of the Heavenly Dragon and studied Tai Kwon Do with the masters.

A life-changing moment was when he decided to sell his beloved motorcycle. Within 60 seconds after making the decision, he says there was a knock on the door from somebody offering to buy it. Michael Motorcycle was born. He used that money that helped him open his current no-frills salon on Travis Street in Highland Park, where he has been cutting hair for the past 25 years.

These days, he’s made curly hair a major focus.

“It’s a very sacred thing, cutting curly hair,” says Motorcycle, who wears is salt-and-pepper hair down his back.

“Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey taught a class at his salon, and he has adapted her technique with his own unique philosophy.

“Sometimes I cut it dry,” he says. “Sometimes I wash it. I pull it down over their Chakra points to determine where to cut it. I follow the grooves of your bones.”

He considers the shampoo sink to be the place where one lets go of their hatred and pain — the first step in the journey.

After a lengthy head and neck massage, he reads the client’s hairline. Motorcycle, who has written a book called “Hairline Lifeline,” believes hair growth patterns correlate with personality traits. He says he can tell if someone is analytical, intuitive or sensual by looking at the way their hair grows.

“I read the follicle and how it comes out of the pore. I bring it all together in tune with the shape of the face, the direction the hair grows. I find out what your hair wants to do and let it do just that.”

He may ring a Tibetan “mindfulness bell” several times during a haircut to remind the himself, and the client, to breathe and to stay present. Clients also are instructed to look at their former selves in the pile of hair on the floor.

Motorcycle’s unique philosophy has captured the attention of hairstylists around the world. He has been written up in papers as far away as England and India. Earlier this year, the La De Da salon in Dayton, Ohio flew him out to teach his techniques to area stylists. More than 20 hairdressers gathered for the five-hour workshop.

Writer Alexandra Marshall wrote about her own Motorcycle haircut in the July 24, 2005, New York Times Magazine.

“His method is affably hands-on: after an intensive massage and meditation at the shampoo sink, he leads me to a chair and starts poking around my hairline, discerning from the way it lists to the right above my forehead that I like to procrastinate. (No argument there.”> Two cowlicks at the base of my neck say I’m ‘ big-time ideas person.’ Once he has read my personality, he then starts cutting to rebalance any natural asymmetry and heighten my personal energy flow, obsessively combing my hair flat and then performing a fairly standard snipping and layering technique around the recesses of my sinus cavity, my jawbone and a few inches below my shoulders.”

Marshall came away a believer.

“Who would argue that a haircut often symbolizes a new beginning? That this beginning is ushered in with the loud ring of a bell is really window dressing, so to speak. Good stylists have always been part psychic, part shrink and part magician — and frankly, we could all do with a little less hatred and pain. Whether we let it go at the shampoo sink, or an hour later, in a burst of joy over a good haircut, it’s a job well done.”

Curly Hair Product Spotlight: Zenda Sims

Like many women with curls, Zenda Sims faced a daily dilemma.

After years of straightening her hair, she had decided to go curly. But living in New York and working in the finance industry, she led a busy life. But she had no time to air dry her hair, no time to diffuse, and regular towels caused her hair to frizz.

“So I began experimenting,” Sims recalls.

While there were several microfiber towels on the market, she felt wanted to create something just for women with waves, curls and kinks. Using herself as a guinea pig, she tried out different designs and fabrics – adding length and changing the weave.

Three years later, she introduced the Curl-Ease towel – a highly absorbent towel that wicks water away from the hair while reducing frizz and defining curls. The lightweight towel dries hair quickly and eliminates the need for hair diffusers and dryers. The towel sells for $25.

“It’s extremely lightweight and easy to wrap around your head,” Sims says. “It’s also very, very absorbent. It totally enhances the natural shape of the hair. Finally there’s something that caters to us besides a flat iron or a hair dryer.”

Zenda’s Tips for Perfect Curls: Gently squeeze excess water from hair. Lean head forward, wrap Curl-Ease tightly against head and tuck into itself. Remove after 15-20 minutes, depending on length and thickness of hair. Shake out hair, use favorite hair products to style hair and you’re ready to go!

Sims says she’s thrilled that she created a product that makes life easier for curly women, especially since she fought her own hair for years.

“My mom didn’t know what to do with it,” Sims says. “She’d say ‘Your hair is a mess. Go brush it.’ Then it would turn into a monster pile of frizz.”

She was a slave to her flatiron. But three years ago, a hairdresser alerted her to the damage daily heat styling had done to her hair. So she went curly. Curl-Ease, she says, has made her own life easier.

And the towels quickly have become a staple for other curlies since she began selling them in December.

NaturallyCurly.com member Shonta Newnham, (CurlTalker “CurlyNight””>, says she was initially a cynic, especially because of the higher cost of Curl-Ease compared to other microfiber towels.

“I didn’t think it would work when I saw it was essentially like a thin cotton cloth, but it does!” Newnham says. “It dries my hair faster. And due to how thin it is, it makes plopping easier too.”

Newnham says she likes it better than any microfiber towel because it’s smooth and thin, without rough edges.

“Curls/waves don’t loosen up or get frizzy since there are no rough edges in it,” she says. “While quite pricey, I like it a lot better than any microfiber towel.”

Susan Shay is also a fan of Curl-ease.

“After trying, and giving up on, a few curly hair products, I have found Curl-Ease to be the best solution for me,” Shay says.

Quest for Healthful Products Leads to New Line
As a stylist, Inga Tritt had long had an interest in natural products. She felt there had to be a good, natural alternative to all the chemicals that were so commonplace in salons.

When her baby daughter developed a painful case of eczema, it inspired her to pursue her interest.

“I started trying a bunch of natural products on her and then it hit me,” Tritt recalls. “I thought, ‘We need a luxury, gourmet haircare and skin-care line for babies and children that really does what it says it will do without any questionable ingredients.”

With the time, money and passion to make her dream a reality — and the help of a research scientist and some smart chemists — she created The Original Little Sprout line of products four years ago. The line is the result of months spent formulating and reformulating products until she came up with exactly what she wanted.

The line, which includes variety of shampoos, conditioners, styling aids and body products, is free of sulfates and parabens. The products, which range in price from $10 to $28, are designed for all hair types, from the finest, straightest to the thickest and kinkiest.

Several of the products, including the Miracle Mousse, Leave-in Conditioner, Natural Hair Gel, Deep Conditioner and the Curl Calmer, are specifically designed for curly babies and kids.

“I see girls as little as 2 years old who tell me that their hair is wild and crazy,” Tritt says. “I remember thinking ‘What? Their hair is gorgeous! They just need the right products and they’ll love their hair.’ There’s nothing prettier than shiny, pretty curls.”

The Original Little Sprout is a natural extension for Tritt, who has spent her career working with hair. She opened her first hair salon in Santa Barbara, and then opened a second one in nearby Summerland.

Although she enjoyed the science and artistry of her work, she realized she wanted to be a mother. And she wanted to be able to be home with her baby.

“I told my husband, ‘Let’s sell everything,'” she says. “We made a lot of money and moved to San Luis Obispo.

While attending a music class with her baby daughter, Maya, she met her future business partner Cosenza Faber, who had moved to the Central California coast from Chicago. It was Faber’s twin curly daughters, Sophia and Ava, who inspired her to create curly products for the line.

Original Little Sprout products have amassed a loyal celebrity following, including customers such as Diane Lane, Courtney Cox, Cindy Crawford, Brooke Shields. Debra Messing and Angelina Jolie.

The curly products have been an especially big huge hit with both parents and kids who are thrilled to find natural products designed for curly kids.

“All day long, I see kids with hair that could just sparkle and shine with the right products,” Tritt says. “Kids deserve quality products just like we do.”

Little Sprout products are available in CurlMart.

Getting that first haircut

A well-executed first haircut can set a positive foundation for future haircuts.

For many parents, their baby’s first trip to the hair salon can be an exciting, yet anxiety-ridden experience.

“It’s uncharted territory for parents,” says Cozy Friedman, who owns three Cozy’s Cuts for Kids salons/toy stores in New York City.

That’s especially true if the kid has curly hair and the parent has straight hair. There are a lot of unknowns. But if done right, it can set a positive foundation for a child’s feelings about future haircuts, as well as their hair.

One of the biggest questions for many parents is when to get the first haircut. Some believe you should wait until their first birthday.

“There are no rules,” says Jody Mackenzie, owner of Banana’s Salon in Fort Myers, Fla. “You should get their hair cut when you think they need that first haircut.”

If it’s growing horizontal rather than vertical, or getting in their eyes, it’s probably a sign that the time has come.

Then it’s important to find the right place to get that first cut. Kids aren’t necessarily welcome at every hair salon, so make sure the place you choose knows how to work with children and understands the difference between baby and adult hair. Many parents — and children — favor children’s salons. In addition to being designed around the needs of children, they usually are chemical free.

At Cozy’s Cuts for Kids, children sit in a jeep, watch a video or play their favorite video game. There are balloons, lollipops, free toys and all the bubbles they can blow. When getting that first cut, the child receives a “First Haircut Certificate” with a keepsake lock of hair.

“My goal was to make it a place to feel really happy,” Friedman says.

At Yellow Balloon in Studio City, Calif., there is a popcorn machine, a large play area with a mini-arcade and miniature toy boxes at each salon chair.

“Our stylists have had years of experience with children before coming here,” says assistant manager Christina Kirilova. “They entertain the kids with stories, toys and even magic tricks so they forget why they are here.”

For the baby’s first haircut, the Yellow Balloon includes a framed Polaroid picture commemorating the occasion, a certificate and a lock of the baby’s hair in a special envelope.

Maria Navarro of Classic Kids Hairstyling in Camarillo, Calif., puts colorful gel in little boys’ hair, and does special braids or twists in little girls’ hair.

“You want them to feel special,” Navarro says.

At Houston’s Playhouse Cuts, the stylists sing and dance and play with the kids to make them feel at ease. They also understand the limitations of their young clients.

“You have to have patience,” George says. “A kid’s tolerance isn’t that long. Even though they’re moving and wiggling, you have to keep going or you’ll never finish.”

Before ever getting the first cut, try to take the child by the salon before the day of the actual cut to make them feel more at ease.

“Even a walk-through prepares them for it,” Friedman says.

Over time, it’s best to stick with the same stylist. That way, the child will develop a comfort level, and the stylist will understand the needs of the growing child.

When it comes to cutting curls, it’s a good idea to ask for a stylist who is experienced in working with curly or kinky hair. Make sure the stylist understands that curly hair shrinks – as much as three to four inches. The right cut depends on the texture of the child’s hair.

“There is no one perfect haircut for every child,” Friedman says.

Often the stylist will work with the parent on a strategy for their child’s hair, especially if the baby’s hair is just coming in.

It may mean cutting the bottom layer over time to let the newer, top layer grow to the same length.

“Have a goal, especially for the first time,” Friedman says. “It’s setting the groundwork for years to come.”

With curlier or kinky hair, stay away from bangs, says Jami Walker of the Hairy Elephant in Ballwin, Mo. “They just kink up too much,” Walker says.

Bangs can be a big commitment, and can be difficult to grow out. Many stylists encourage the parent to work on growing the child’s hair to one length or long layers. Be an active part of your child’s haircut.

“You may want a bob, but every stylist has a different interpretation of what a bob is,” Friedman says. “Be very descriptive. Bring pictures.”

Make sure you’re realistic about what you want. If your child has tight curls, a pageboy haircut probably isn’t the right cut.

Finally, remember that the first haircut is a chance to make your child feel good about the experience, and about their hair. If the parent is anxious or talks about the hair as if it’s a problem, the baby picks up on it.

“Parents forget that children are sponges,” Friedman says.


Tips for the First Haircut

1. Always make an appointment. Otherwise, the child may have to wait.

2. Try to get the first appointment of the day so the child can get in and out.

3. Stay away from the word “haircut.” That can be scary for children, who associate cuts with pain. Instead, use the word trim.

4. Bring snacks. A hungry child is unlikely to cooperate.

5. Take the child at a time when they’re most relaxed. For some it might be after a nap. For others, it might be right before a nap.

How Long Do Hair Products Stay Fresh?
Have you ever opened a bottle of shampoo and noticed an odd odor? Or has it turned an odd color or consistency?

Even the highest quality hair products have a shelf life. And depending on the ingredients, that shelf life can vary dramatically.

Most large companies put enough preservatives in their products to last roughly four years. These preservatives, such as methylparaben, quaternium-15, methylisothiazolinone and propylparaben, help prevent the products from becoming contaminated by mold and bacteria.

If you use preservative-free, all-natural products, remember that they will not stay fresh as long as commercial products.

The most effective all-natural preservative is a citrus extract, such as grapefruit seed, combined with antiseptic essential oils, such as chamomile, rosemary and echinacea. Antioxidants, such as Vitamin E, also are natural preservatives.

But most of these natural preservatives can only protect shampoos and conditioners from bacteria, staph, mold and fungus for 120 days, according to Tim Schaeffer, spokesman for Avalon Natural Products.

These companies constantly test the products using a challenge test. The product is baked in special ovens, with one month equivalent to one year. Each month, they inject several bacteria to test how effective the preservatives perform.

But even with preservatives, precautions should be taken to protect the product’s quality. Products should never stand in direct sunlight for a prolonged period of time. Be cautious of products sitting in a window display.

If you have a choice of buying your favorite hair product in a tube or a jar, opt for the tube. Jars must be opened to dispense the product. When you dip your fingers into the product, it may be exposed to germs that can contaminate it.

For this reason, many cosmetic and hair care companies are moving toward pump dispensers. Pumps offer the advantage of measured doses while being more sanitary.

Some say the shelf life issue would be solved if shampoos and conditioners were refrigerated, or if they had expiration dates. But most products don’t have sell-by dates, and most products are kept on shelves at room temperature.

Because of this, make sure you open the cap and smell the product before you buy. (CurlMart‘s inventory is kept small and turns over quickly, so it is always fresh.”>

For products in your bathroom, regularly check the smell and the consistency. If the product has separated, it’s probably time to throw it away.

Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue recommends discarding products you’ve had for two years or longer. The potency of some of the ingredients will be lost through regular exposure to oxygen and light, making it less effective.


The Best Ways to Maximize Shelf Life

  1. Keep products in a cool, dry, dark place away from sunlight, humidity and heat. (That means out of your bathroom.”>
  2. If your product comes in a large jar, you can sterilize several smaller containers and put the cream into the smaller containers.
  3. Try not to travel with too many products. Changes in heat and humidity can change the consistency of products.

Protecting Preservative-Free Formulations

  1. Be sure your hands are sterile.
  2. Store products in dark containers or opaque packaging to keep them away from the harmful effects of sunlight.
  3. Make sure packaging is airtight. Natural products can oxidize and go rancid when exposed to air.
  4. Heat can damage natural products. Store products in a cupboard or other cool place.
  5. Because fingers can carry bacteria, avoid dipping fingers into jars and bottles. Instead, use a clean spoon, popsicle stick or other appropriate utensil. Pumps are good at dispensing more liquid-y products.