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Sherry L. of Puntagorda, Fla. was looking for a change when she decided to try thermal reconditioning last April.
After a two-hour drive to Fort Lauderdale and seven hours in the stylist’s chair, she had a shiny, stick-straight bob that ‘felt like a Siamese cat.’
“I’ve never been able to run my fingers through my hair before,” said Sherry (Curltalker Meezer”>.
But her enthusiasm was short-lived. She recalls looking around her in class one day and seeing curly hair everywhere. The only way she could get any curl back into her hair was by dousing it with hairspray and using a curling iron. Her once bouncy ponytail was flat and limp.
“I just paid $600 and all I see is people with curls,” she recalled. “I felt like I wasn’t myself anymore.”
So in June, Sherry snipped off close to five inches of hair, leaving a chin length bob. By September, the rest of the straightened hair had been cut off.
“It definitely gave me a new appreciation of curls,’ she said. ‘In my opinion, the only people who should do this are people who already wear their hair straight every day, because there’s a very good chance you’ll miss your curls.”
Thermal reconditioning, a Japanese hair-straightening technique introduced in the United States a few years ago, has taken the country by storm. For many curlyheads, it has been a godsend, enabling them to achieve their desire of having silky straight hair. For many, it has been a life-changing experience.
“It’s the world’s greatest thing for curly hair,” Rachel Marinos told the Seattle Times in November. “I love it more than Christmas and my birthday.”
The treatment manipulates heat from a special iron to restructure the bonds in the hair and change the shape of the hair follicle so it falls completely straight. The top three methods use roughly the same procedure: relax the hair, apply proteins and conditioners, flatiron it straight and apply a neutralizing solution.
It takes three to six hours, depending on the length of the hair and how curly it is and can last six to eight months, although some women require retouches every few months. The cost ranges from $250 to $1,000.
“I’m not anti-TR,” Sherry said. “It’s an absolutely amazing solution for people who wear their hair straight.”
But it’s not for everyone. It’s expensive. Upkeep can be more than some bargain for (curly regrowth can look strange with the straightened hair”>. It’s permanent (once it’s straight, it’s straight until you cut it off”>. It may not work well on very coarse or kinky hair. If applied wrong, the chemicals can cause damage and breakage. One New York stylist has nicknamed it the “Hiroshima Hair Treatment.”
And for some, their new stick-straight hair has left them longing for their curls.
“Part of your personality is associated with your hair,” said Monica of New Jersey. “I miss my curly hair.”
Monica had the process done this year ago after a hairdresser blew her 3a curls straight. Up until then, she always had worn her hair curly. She loved the look and got haircuts that suited her straight hair. Thermal reconditioning seemed to offer the perfect way to get the straight look easily.
But it’s been more difficult than she expected. She never realized her hair was fine until it was chemically straightened.
“When it was curly, I had a lot of hair, a lot of body,’ she said. ‘In the beginning it was really, really flat. It doesn’t necessarily suit my long, thin face.”
Another problem has been the split ends that show much more clearly with her straight hair. “You can see every imperfection,” she said.
And it takes her a long time to make her hair look good — something she was unprepared for.
When it was curly, I just jumped in the shower, washed it and let it dry naturally,” she said. “Now it doesn’t look good unless I style it.”
For those who opt for thermal reconditioning, stylists have several suggestions to make sure they’re happy with the results.
Those who do it should be prepared for the dramatic change it will make to their overall look.
Veteran stylist Antonio Soddu, founder of the Curl Friends and co-founder of the Bumble and Bumble product lines, suggests those considering thermal reconditioning blow their hair straight for two weeks to see how they like it.
“Once it’s straight, it’s straight,” Soddu said. “If you want it curly again, you have to grow it out.” Once you’ve had the treatment done, treat it with tender loving care.
In the December Allure, hairstylist Mayumi Nakashima of New York’s Peter Coppola Salon recommends those who have had thermal reconditioning wash their hair infrequently (two to three times a week”>, air dry when possible, use a natural-bristle hairbrush and protective conditioning spray when blowdrying and deep condition the hair once a month.
Ouidad recently introduced a new deep conditioning treatment designed for the type of damage caused by such processes as thermal reconditioning. Damage Control — ‘a curl recovery system’ — is formulated with vitamins A, B6, C, D, E, K, folic acid, botanical extracts, powerful proteins and Methyl-Sulfonylmethane, a naturally occurring sulfur compound mixed with Aloe-Vera. The conditioner is designed to stimulate and moisturize damaged hair, restoring the original shine and luster. The treatment must be applied under professional supervision.
And for those who don’t want their hair completely straight, there are many other options, ranging from relaxers like Rusk Anti-Curl to reverse perms.
Christo Fifth Avenue, for example, offers the Curlisto Bio-Softening treatment to loosen curls and add shine. He uses a blend of botanical extracts, conditioners, amino acids and proteins in the formula, which is applied on dry, sectioned hair for 60 to 120 minutes, depending on the length and thickness of the hair. The cost ranges from $300 to $500.
“It doesn’t make the hair straight,” Cypriano said. “It adds more shine and makes the curls more uniform and less bulky.”
The salon’s Bio-Reconditioning treatment is halfway between Bio-Softening and Thermal Reconditioning and uses minimal heat to loosen ultra-tight, frizzy curls.
“It still gives you the option of having curls when you want them,” Cypriano said. “It’s less drastic.”
And finally, the salon does do thermal reconditioning as well, but only after a consultation.
“We make sure that the person who wants their hair straightened is 100 percent sure they want that look for a year,” he said. “If I see they’re a little hesitant, I offer our two other options and leave it up to them to decide.”
For Valerie (Curltalker ValerieW”> of New Jersey, thermal reconditioning has been a mixed blessing. When she first had it done, she loved the results. But despite what she had heard, her hair wasn’t wash and wear. She had to blowdry it to get her hair shiny and straight. And as it grew out, it looked dry and damaged, prompting her to do the process again.
“I really didn’t want straight hair,” she said. “I just didn’t want frizzy hair. It’s been two years and I miss my curls.”
What’s your face shape?
Here’s how to find the hair styles that work best for you. Styles should accentuate your best facial features while minimizing your less-than-best features.
To find your face shape:
- Pull hair back and secure so hair is totally off the face.
- Stand 12′ from a mirror and look straight into it. Or, use a picture of yourself facing straight into the camera with your hairline showing.
- Outline your face with a marker on the mirror, with drawing paper or on the photo itself.
- Now look at your face shape in the mirror or the photo drawing. At first there may appear to be more than one shape. Though your face may not be an exact duplicate of any single shape, it will more closely resemble one shape over all other shapes shown. Pick the shape most closely resembling your own.
Oval-Shaped Face
Oval is considered by many to be the loveliest and most versatile face shape since nearly every style looks sensational on this face with perfect symmetry. Hair pulled back shows off the oval face the most. In long styles, a great classic look is a center or side part with hair touching shoulders. The short-layered looks with curls and a close extended nape focus on this oval.
Round-Shaped Face
This shape is round at the cheeks and a has a circular form.There is more of the face near the ears and gradually less curving upward and downward. The goal: to slim your face. Hair below the chin line should be worn with a face-lengthening center part; for hair above chin line, wear an off-center part to interrupt the roundness. Height at the crown and a bare forehead lengthen and slim the face. It’s best to avoid short and sleeked-back hairstyles. In short-angled styles, you are best seen with hair brushed away from the face, building extra crown height to narrow the roundness of your features. Though bangs shorten the face, you can wear curly, tousled side bangs. Always avoid straight-falling bangs. Wear longer styles closer to the face to give length. Decrease the volume at the sides and ear area. Increase height and length should be beyond the chin or just above it. A side part works well. Keeping hair off the face at the cheek area is also recommended.
Square Face
This face is characterized by an angular jaw and square brow, with jaw and brow being nearly the same width. The goal: soften the sharp angle of jawline and minimize squared-off brow. Hairstyles that emphasize the cheekbones mid-line of the face are most flattering. Bangs and waves at the temple also soften the square. Wear your best styles with hair swinging forward onto the face to reduce the angles. Hair length is best about 1-1/2′ below the chin, or extending to shoulder length to reduce and soften the squareness of your jaw. Hair worn on the forehead is always perfect for you, as long as it is wispy or fringed. Never wear straight bangs. Hair turned under at the bottom also will narrow the width of the jaw. Styles in loose curls and waves add extra dimension to the square face. Styles that round out your hair can decrease the appearance of a square face shape. Adding curl, angled or wispy bangs, and a few wisps on the cheek area will all help. A cut that allows for some height i also a good idea. Wear a side part as opposed to a center part. Avoid straight bangs and hanging hair.
Triangular-Shaped Face
This shape has a wide chin and a narrow forehead. The goal: narrow the chin and widen the forehead. Wear your hair wide and full at the top of the head and temples, brushed away from the face and up toward the ear to widen forehead; from the ear, angle hair forward toward the chin to soften and narrow a strong jaw. Do not wear styles that are full at the jawline however.Your best hair length: chin length or longer. Decrease volume in the crown and at the side, ear areas. Adding curl and fullness to the chin area and just above the temples can help round out the look.
Heart-Shaped Face
This is an upside down triangle face. There is very little of your face at the jaw line, much more at the eye line, cheek bones and even more at the brow line. The goal: diminish forehead width and create a wider, fuller jaw effect.If you want bangs, wear them full and curly if possible. Wear a side part with soft three-quarter bangs swept over one side to balance your forehead width. The styles should be fuller at the top than at the jaw line. Upswept at the sides and off the forehead further emphasize your feminine appeal . A medium length to mid-neck is your best look. Fullness at the bottom, with hair directed forward onto the cheeks gives you the appearance of a wide chin. Curls or loose waves, shaped from the ears down, add width and fullness to your chin. Decrease volume in the crown and at the side, ear areas. Adding curl and fullness to the chin area can help round out the look. Wisps on the jaw area or bangs can help give a wider rounder appearance. Avoid styles that mirror the heart shape.
Oblong face
This shape is long and thin, often with a chin that tends to look pointed. There is very little difference in width between the top, middle or bottom of your face but it is more rounded than the square face.Hairstyles should add width and fullness to the sides of the face and around the eyes, cheekbones and ears. This shape benefits from a low side part, with a sweep of hair brushed across the forehead and secured with a comb. The look of volume with an asymmetric flow of hair to one side widens your face and reduces length. Straight-falling bangs or bangs blended with the sides of your hair shorten the overall face length. Your best hair length reaches to the middle of the neck. Favor volume with curly or wavy styles that are very becoming, giving you the illusion of balanced width.
Clothing tip: Avoid long v-necked and vertical lines at the neckline. Use high necklines to shorten the length of the face.
Makeup tip: To shorten the face a bit,. use darker foundation, powder or blusher to darken the chin.
With so many different bottles, tubes and cans of hair products from which to choose, it can be difficult to figure out what they all do. Here is some help.
Anti-frizz gel or serum
See Straightening gel.
Anti-humectants
Any substance that repels moisture. They are used to prevent frizz.
Glaze
Another name for either a sculpturing lotion or a styling creme. Tends to add a lot of shine.
Hair Wax
Much like a styling pomade, with a firmer viscosity. These products tend to come in either pots or stick delivery systems. Use these products for defining only. Piece out individual curls or wisps of hair. Less is definitely more with wax, which tends to work better on shorter hair.
Humectants
Any substance that promotes the retention of water. Products that have humectant properties are a must for curly hair.
Mousse
Mousse products are a legacy form the 1980s, the era of big hair. They were developed to create weightless volume. These are products that are liquid in their packaged state and when dispensed, they become a foam. They give light to firm style support without weighing the hair down.
Molding Creme
They are great for adding volume at the root or to define curls. They tend to have a very thick viscosity and offer firm, flexible styling support. The tradeoff for this type of product is you do not get a great deal of shine. A molding creme, if properly applied, can be one of the most versatile products. But use a small amount. You can always add more as needed. They may be too thick for longer hair.
Pomade
These are styling gels with either a water-soluable or non-soluable wax base. These products are very thick in viscosity and tend to have the consistency of cold margarine or butter. They can be used for all styles seeking high definition, control and shine. remember that less is more with pomades, and make sure to emulsify the product in the hands before using. Pomades are especially good for African-American hair because they add moisture, control and shine.
Sculpturing lotions
A liquid based styling product that is great for taming curly hair. The liquid consistency allows the product to penetrate into the hair. They tend to have light to medium hold and can be used for setting hair, finger waving, braiding, scrunching and plaiting. Many African-American consumers find these products to be a lifesaver for taming flyaways and detangling.
Shine Spray
A mica-or silicone-based spray product that adds shine. They tend to have no holding properties. They are best used as the last step. Apply hair spray, all it to dry, then mist on the shine spray. Don’t touch your hair for the rest of the day. For curlyheads, look for a silicone-based spray because these aid in frizz control.
Smoothing gels or balms
Clear to translucent gels that come in a variety of viscosities. They tend to have little to no hold, but soften curl, balance moisture level and fight frizz. They can be added while styling to control flyaway and frizz or apply and use with a blow dryer and tension to smooth and straighten the hair. After you wash your hair, the curl will return. Always apply a smoothing balm first to the ends of the hair and work it up the hair shaft to the root. Silicone-based products will straighten hair, add shine and help to block outside humidity.
Spray gel
These products are like a styling gel, but in a different delivery system. They come in a variety of holds and were designed for people who do not want to get product on their hands. People with curly hair will find a spray gel very beneficial. the spray application helps to ensure a more even application without adding weight. these products are fantastic for adding before and during the drying process when people scrunch their hair. Spray, scrunch and let air dry or use a blow-dryer with a diffuser attachment.
Straightening cremes
Generally a lighter version of a straightening gel or balm. They are best for straightening fine hair or for providing light frizz control to medium and coarse hair.
Styling creme
A styling creme tends to offer pliable style support. They are opaque to translucent and come in a variety of holds and shine factors. These cremes tend to be best for adding definition to curls and texture for shorter styles. Just add a little bit at the fingertips and piece out individual curls. A medium to light hold creme is best for curly hair. these products also are a must for up-do work. Many times, these are two-in-one proudcts that condition as well as style.
Hair is largely made up of a protein called keratin. Cells in the hair follicle regularly produce the keratin and other proteins that become incorporated into the hair shaft. Coloration comes from melanocytes which produce the brown pigment melanin.
The curliness of hair is determined by the amount of disulfide bonds between the hair proteins (bonding between two sulfer atoms -S-S-“>. Proteins are made of amino acids, two of which contain sulfer — methionine and cysteine. The bonds commonly occur between cysteine residues which have a free sulfhydryl group (-SH”>. More linking produces curlier hair. The process can also be carried out chemically as happens with a permanent wave. So the main difference between naturally curly hair and straight hair is in the amount of disulfide linking in the hair shaft.
More about hair from Encyclopedia.com:
Each hair originates in a deep, pouch-like hair follicle, which contains the bulb-shaped root of the hair. The papilla, a net of nerves and capillaries that supplies the hair, extends into an indentation at the base of the root. Here newly dividing cells force older cells upward, where they die and harden into the hair shaft. The shaft has two layers, the colorless cuticle and the cortex, which contains pigment and the protein keratin. Hair is lubricated by oil from sebaceous glands in the follicle.
Are curls and kinks getting you down? Do you want a smoother, sleeker look-looser curls, less frizz and more shine?
The new generation of hair relaxers provide curlyheads with a growing number of options. They are designed for all hair types from coarse and kinky to fine and curly. They can take out a cowlick or smooth an entire head of hair.
‘What they do is break down the bonds of the hair,’ said Khiara Nabifar, research and development product manager for Sebastian International. ‘They give hair a softer look and flow. A relaxer can actually benefit you by changing the texture of your hair.’A few decades ago, those with curls often resorted to strong straightening products. But they had their drawbacks. The hair broke. The scalp burned.
‘Relaxers were very harsh,’ said Laurence Nunes, a national advisor and coordinator with Paul Mitchell, which makes a 5-year-old product called The Relaxer.Then and Now
The newer products, which use either a sodium hydroxide or a thioglycolic aid base (the same chemicals used in permanent waves”>, are now available in a variety of strengths for almost any type of hair. They contain more buffers to protect the scalp and to provide more nutrition and moisture for the hair.
Chemical hair relaxing products change the structure of the hair, penetrating the hair and rearranging the bonds of in the hair shaft so that the structure can change.
Steve Goddard, general manager of Rusk Inc., knows from experience about the challenge of relaxing curly hair. As a kid growing up, he was nicknamed ‘Steve Fuzz.’ Chemical relaxers left his hair looking like wood, with no body, no flow.
‘They took all of the life out of my hair,’ he said. ‘It didn’t look natural at all.’Rusk came out with its popular AntiCurl relaxer in 1995 to provide a gentler option for people with curly hair. The company now has three formulas: one for virgin hair, one for color-treated hair and one for resistant hair. It is made with a thioglycolic acid.
The entire process takes about an hour. Phase I of AntiCurl is applied with a bowl and a brush. The product is applied in sections, about a half-inch away from the scalp. The hair is continuously combed with a wide-toothed comb throughout the process to provide a mild amount of tension as the bonds are broken. After the hair is rinsed, Phase II is applied to lock in the bonds to their new, straighter configuration.
‘The concept is to take the same hair fiber altering mechanism used in a perm and apply it to smoothing the hair,’ Goddard said. ‘Because of the base and the formula itself, AntiCurl is able to smooth the hair, remove frizz, eliminate much of the curl and completely eliminate perms without damaging the hair.’KMS Flat Out Chemical Relaxer, a sodium hydroxide formula, comes in gentle, regular and extra strength formulas. The difference is strengths is the amount of buffers in the product and the amount of sodium hydroxide. As a rule, the mild is best for color-treated and finer hair textures. Regular is for most people and is used to relax or retexturize hair. Extra strength is for very coarse hair or culr that is resistant to relaxing. The product can be used to straighten or retexturize, said John Sturgill, spokesman for KMS.
<h2What to ExpectThioglycolic acid relaxers, which tend to be milder and less damaging, last about a month before the curl begins tightening. In resistant hair, it can come back in as little as two weeks.
Sodium hydroxide relaxers, which tend to work better on ethnic hair, last forever. The relaxation cannot be reversed.
No matter what type of product you use, keep your expectations realistic. Don’t expect your tight curls to be transformed into stick-straight, shiny Vidal Sassoon hair. The results will depend on the type of hair, the strength of the relaxer used and the length of time it is left on.
If you have coarse, kinky hair with a strong curl, you’ll get a smoother finish to the hair and a relaxed wave pattern, Goddard said.
‘A person who has curl hair who wants it straighter can expect a looser curl,’ Nunes said. ‘It’s more of a control product – controlling frizziness and unwanted curls.’For those who want a straighter look with their relaxed hair, they can blow dry it or use a product like Conair’s new Steamer Flat Iron, which allows you to straighten the hair while putting moisture into it.
Don’t Try This At Home</h2
Just because the newer products are less damaging doesn’t mean anybody can use them. They still use strong chemicals.
A professional stylist must determine the condition of the hair. Has it been colored? Have any other chemicals been used on it? If it is damaged and fragile, the process could seriously damage the hair. Some stylists do a patch test to see how the hair reacts. If there is breakage after the test, don’t relax the hair.
In the wrong hands, the results can be disastrous. A person who uses a thioglycolic acid-based product on top of hair that’s been relaxed with a sodium hydroxide relaxer can end up with a ‘chemical haircut,’ Sturgill said.
‘You must find an experienced stylist who knows how to relax hair,’ Sturgill said. ‘This will keep damage to a minimum.’Handle With Care
To keep relaxed hair looking good, it must be treated with care.
‘Overall, hair tends to have less body and shine,’ Sturgill said. ‘It may even feel a little bit dry and brittle. Relaxing is not a delicate process.’People who have had their hair relaxed should wait at least three weeks before coloring it. Make sure you tell your colorist that your hair has been relaxed because it may have a higher porosity, which can affect the color formulation and the timing.
Stay away from bleach, which add insult to injury.
Sturgill recommends using a good leave-in treatment such as KMS Liquid Assets and shampoos and conditioners with a lot of natural essential fatty acids and humectants. Avoid products with magnesium, he said. They can dry relaxed hair and make it more curly.
The shampoo must put moisture into the hair. Nunes recommends Paul Mitchell Shampoo 1, Awapui or The Wash for clients with relaxed hair.
It should be followed up with a good detangler or conditioner.
Deep conditioners are recommended at least once a week. Nunes likes Paul Mitchel’s Super- Charged Conditioner.
Nabifar recommends Sebastian’s Potion 7, a deep conditioner containing shea butter that soothes and smoothes the cuticle.
‘After using it, the cuticle is like spun silk,’ Nabifar said. ‘I swear by it.’
Sandra Yu, technical director of Rusk Inc., took some time out to talk about Rusk Radical Anticurl. Anticurl is based on thioglycolic acid, which tends to be milder than other relaxers. It has a lower pH than the sodium hydroxide relaxers and is more gentle to the hair and scalp. Unlike sodium hydroxide relaxers, Anticurl is reversible.
It is a texturizer, ‘not a relaxer or a straightener,’ Yu says. ‘It’s more like a Valium for the hair. It takes the edge off.’
Naturallycurly.com: What types of hair does it work best on – 3as, 4bs, etc.?
Yu: It works on all types of hair. It comes in three formulations – 1 is for normal hair, 2 is for more porous, chemically treated hair, and 3 is for more resistant hair. For Type 4 hair, it loosens up the curl and reduces frizz. For looser curls, it softens up the hair, taking it down a couple of perm rod sizes.
Naturallycurly.com: Who shouldn’t use Anticurl?
Yu: People who have relaxed their hair with a sodium hydroxide relaxer. They don’t mix. It’s like giving a chemical haircut.
Naturallycurly.com: Does it completely straighten the hair?
Yu: You’ll still have bend in the hair. People with curly hair think they want straight hair, but they don’t. With straight, flat hair, they wouldn’t know what to do with it. It will be straight enough, but will still have body. If they want more curl out of their hair, they can do another application in four weeks if the hair is in good condition.
Naturallycurly.com: How does it work?
Yu: It’s a two-step process performed by a professional stylist. The first step softens the bonds of the hair. The second puts them back together.
Naturallycurly.com: How is it applied?
Yu: The thick cream is combed through 3/4-inch sections, starting about an inch away from the roots. It doesn’t have to be combed consistently like a regular straightener. Once the application is complete, the hair is combed back. Then you start timing. The stylist will comb the hair from one side to the other, from left to right and then from right to left, keeping it as flat as possible. For normal hair, the process takes about 20 to 25 minutes. For more porous, color-treated hair, it takes around 15 minutes.Once that process is complete, it is rinsed out of the hair for 4 to 5 minutes, until the water runs clear. The hair is towel dried and combed smooth again. Then Phase II is applied to 3/4-inch sections, combing the hair nice and flat, from the back to the top of the head. After the second phase is applied, the stylist combs the hair from side to side for five minutes. After that, the process is complete. The hair is rinsed well.
Naturallycurly.com: How much does the process cost?
Yu: It varies. Some stylists charge around $50. Others can charge as much as $200. It depends upon the salon.
Naturallycurly.com: How often can you do it?
Yu: You can do it every eight to 12 weeks. Some people like to do it more during the summertime because of the humidity. It gives some relaxation of the curls, but eventually the curls come back. But it will never be as curly as it used to be and the frizz won’t come back.
Naturallycurly.com: What products do you recommend to maintain hair after Anticurl?
Yu: I like Rusk Smoother Shampoo, Calm Conditioner, Brilliance Leave-In Conditioner and Rusk Masque with balm mint and babassu. Curly hair loves moisture. To style, I use Str8.
Naturallycurly.com: How can you find a stylist in your area that does Anticurl?
Yu: You can call 1-800-Use-Rusk.
