Search Results: Michelle Breyer

Marketing coordinator Cyntelia Abrams was walking down the hall at Design Essentials two years ago, bemoaning the fact she needed another relaxer, when a visiting stylist suggested she go natural instead.

Abrams, who started working for the Georgia-based haircare company in 2005, had experimented with low-lye relaxers, but she had never been quite ready to embrace her natural texture.

“I hadn’t seen my natural hair since I was five years old,” Abrams says. “Growing up, I never thought natural hair was pretty.”

She decided to transition to her natural hair. “I was still wearing my hair straight,” says Abrams during an interview at ‘Fro Fashion Week in Atlanta.

A year and a half ago, the light bulb went off. She said it was time that she finally embraced her natural hair— kinks, coils and all.

“I can’t just love my natural hair when it’s straight,” she says. “I realized—this is my hair. It was time to get comfortable in my own skin.”

Although she still wears her hair straight every now and then, Abrams says she wears it natural most of the time. Usually, she just wets it and goes.

And Abrams’s acceptance of her own natural ‘do is reflected by Design Essentials, which is committed to natural hair. The company developed its Natural Hair Care System— a collection of curl definition products infused with a combination of natural butters and oils to maintain and style loose wavy to tightly coiled hair textures. Each product is specially formulated with a blend of nourishing natural ingredients such as jojoba, cocoa butter, coconut oil, soy and almond oil to better meet the individual needs of each hair type. The ingredients provide the intense moisture that natural hair needs and the curl definition the natural consumer desires.

“We love natural hair,” Abrams says. “We’re committed to natural hair. This isn’t just a trend. It’s a lifestyle and it’s here to stay.”

Cyntelia shares her favorite products and tips:

“My favorite products are the Design Essentials Natural Curl Cleanser and Moisturizing Conditioner. I love how they soften and detangle my hair. I also love the smell!”

“I usually style my hair by doing a Wet Two Strand Twist Set. Tips for achieving the best results with this style:

1. Detangle before twisting. Detangling helps to remove any hair/coils that have shedded during shampooing and conditioning. Detangling also creates a smoother curl/twist once the style is dry and taken apart.

2. Sit under a dryer. I’ve found that my twists are more defined, with no frizz, when I sit under a dryer versus air drying.

3. Allow hair to stay twisted for at least 1 or 2 days before untwisting the hair. This allows the wave/twist pattern to form for more curl definition with the style once twists are taken apart.”

Highlighting American Idol’s Curly Contestants

American Idol’s finalists are rife with wavy, curly and kinky hair. As the season moves forward, will their stylists encourage them to go straight or will they stick to their curly guns?

Ladies first

Spotlight on Karen Rodriguez

New York City native Karen Rodriguez, 21, auditioned for American Idol via MySpace, but Karen knows her way around a stage too, having previously appeared on a Spanish-language television singing competition. In awe of Jennifer Lopez during her original audition, she even sang J. Lo’s “If You Had My Love” at auditions in Hollywood—while J. Lo sang along silently. Telling J. Lo, “You don’t know how much you inspire me” probably wasn’t a bad call, either. Certainly, she made an impression on all the judges.

More Curly Women

Curly men, too—and talented all the same

Spotlight on Casey Abrams

Greatly impressed with Casey Abrams, Idol judge Randy Jackson told him, “You’re funny, you’re fearless, and that’s what I love about great artists.” After all, doesn’t it take courage for a man to own a Jessica Rabbit song from “Who Framed Roger Rabbit?” Talented, easy-going and refreshingly real, his approachable personality certainly had something to do with winning over the judges. And he obviously isn’t afraid of owning his emotions, either. Selected as a finalist, he crashes over his chair, runs to hug each of the judges, and tells them “I love you guys.” Now that’s a man.

More Curly Men

Special Mention

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the heartfelt feelings surrounding the surprise departure of Idol contestant Chris Medina.

Curly Haired Men, through Thick and Thin

Chris Medina’s elimination from the competition on Season 10 of “American Idol” may have shocked viewers Wednesday night—and moved Jennifer Lopez to tears—but Chris Medina himself wasn’t surprised, considering the talent he was up against—whom he called, “really awesome, talented, wonderful, young, good looking singers.” Chris says, “I was surprised by everyone’s reaction.” “People got wrapped up in who I was as an individual contestant on the show, with the story and with the singing. There was a rooting for the underdog kind of thing going on… but to me, living in my own skin, I think they got it right.”

Calling himself “the underdog” is spot on, maybe even an understatement. You may not have heard Chris’s story—if you live in a cave with no internet access. Chris, 26, proposed to his fiancée Juliana after dating for six years. Two months before their scheduled wedding, Juliana was in an auto accident that left her brain-damaged and in a wheelchair. Juliana’s bridal shower became a fundraiser for medical expenses. Chris is now a full-time caretaker for Juliana. “I was about to make vows just two months from the accident—through thick and thin, ’til death do us part, for better or worse,” he said. “What kind of guy would I be if I walked out when she needed me the most?”

No wonder J Lo let the tears flow.

Let the curly competition begin! Go curlies!

Salute to Stylists contest winners revealed!

The Contest

Recently, NaturallyCurly.com launched its two-month long Salute To Stylists contest, asking for your vote for your favorite stylist. We have our winners! Regional winning stylists will receive 3 months of free advertising on NaturallyCurly.com and a 1-year subscription to Modern Salon. Grand Prize winning stylist will receive 3 months of free advertising on NaturallyCurly.com and a 1-year subscription to Modern Salon, as well as a trip to New York for 3 days of Deva Curlaboration instruction. Winning consumers will receive $150 worth of merchandise from Shop.NaturallyCurly.com and $150 in services from their winning stylist.

The number of reviews were calculated from 12/15/10 to 2/15/11

If anybody had told veteran stylist Vickie Vela-Cambruzzi five years ago she would be opening a salon dedicated to curlies, she would have told them “Get out of town!”

That was before Vela-Cambruzzi, a curly herself, saw the light. Or in her case, experienced the magic of a Deva cut at the hands of “Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey at a hair show. The cut was her best ever—changing her whole perception of her curls—and she saved her money to go to a DevaConcepts Curlaboration to learn the dry-cutting technique herself. Less than a year later, she opened Curls On Top Salon in Laguna Beach, a salon focused on the needs of curlies. Business is booming at the 1-year-old salon, where curlies travel from outside California to get a Deva cut. “It’s been incredible,” says Vela-Cambruzzi.

Many curlies grew up at a time when few stylists knew how to work with curls, and most now have numerous war stories to tell about the bad haircuts and the botched chemical services they received. When NaturallyCurly.com launched 13 years ago, a handful of stylists and salons focused on the needs of women with wavy, curly and kinky hair. Most stylists once viewed curls as something to “fix” by straightening it or shearing it short.

Vela-Cambruzzi is part of the growing legion of stylists who have made curls their focus to help girls—and guys—with curls love their natural texture. This trend has been fueled by rising demand from women who want to work with their natural texture as well as the increased availability of curl training, thanks to curl specialists like DevaConcepts and Ouidad.

During the two-month Salute to the Stylists contest, which wrapped up yesterday, more than 315 new salons were added – many focused on curly, kinky hair textures.

Much of this growth has come over the past five years, with salons popping up in cities around the world—salons like Curls & Co. in Chicago, IL and Curl Lounge in Raleigh, NC; Kinky, Curly Straight Salon in South Euclid, OH and Me My Curls and I in San Diego, CA. The trend stretches around the globe, from Purely Natural in London, England to Curl Ambassadors in Toronto, Ontario, which recently opened a second location. And it’s not limited to salons with the word “curl” or “kinks” in the name. Most salons now make it a priority to train their stylists in the ways of curls, and stylists are filling texture training classes at hair shows.

It’s a curl revolution that could have a profound effect on how curlies feel about their hair—especially younger girls who now can grow up embracing their kinks and curls rather than fighting them.

“This has been my passion,” says Melanie Higgins, a curl specialist at Seasons Salon & Spa in Lexington, KY. “I look at hair as a fabric. It’s not about race.” For many stylists, their passion for curls started close to home. Higgins, who went natural six years ago, struggled with how to work with her own natural texture. Since becoming a stylist in 2005, she trained with different stylists to learn the best techniques for working with curls and kinks, learning the “volumetrix” technique from Philip Pelusi.

Last August, she hosted her first workshop called “You’ve Got Curls,” teaching participants about how to work with their curls and kinks. She recently launched www.gotcurls.com to promote her curl passion. “When you’re trying to figure out what you want to do, you try everything,” Higgins says. “I realized this is me. I’m so happy. It allowed me to experience different angles and bring it back to the chair,” Higgins says.

Melanie Brown, owner of Curls Gone Wild, wanted to help her 10-year-old biracial daughter. “I was determined not to straighten it or pull it into tight braids,” says Brown. “My ego was too big. I wanted to figure

out her hair if it’s the last thing to do.” When she originally opened the salon, it wasn’t a curl-only salon. But after taking a DevaConcepts Curlaboration course two years ago, she decided to focus on curls, adding the tagline “A curly salon” to the end of the salon’s name. She calls it a great business decision, with clients flying in from around the country and plans to expand. “Straight-haired people don’t understand the name,” she says. “But curly people totally understand.”

Cally Raduenzel of Curls & Co. in Chicago, IL, is one of a number of stylists who was inspired by her own curly hair battles. During her 10 years as a stylist, Raduenzel says she developed her own dry-cutting technique on her curly clients. When a client brought her Massey’s “Curly Girl,” she decided to take a class which “pretty much changed my whole life in hair.” Once a color specialist, she switched her specialty to curly hair and opened Curls & Co. in June 2010. Eighty-five percent of her clientele is curly, and she believes she has an ability to positively effect the way they feel about their hair. “When I grew up, I found only two people who did a decent job on my curls and both of them straightened my hair,” she says. “I didn’t really embrace my curls until college. I want to help people love their curls early on.”

This growth in the number of curl-centric salons is likely continue, say stylists around the country. What was once viewed as a trend is now seen is a major shift.

While past generations may have leaned toward relaxers, today’s women are seeking more natural styles, says Monica Green, who opened her Kinky, Curly, Straight Salon two years ago in South Euclid, OH. Green says her salon offers services such as lock maintenance, two-strand twists, braiding, kinky twists and other natural styles. “It’s the new reality,” Green says. “The market is not going away.”

Pantene celebrity stylist Danilo has a passion for curly hair in all its forms—from loose waves to tight kinks.

Danilo is very excited about the options provided by Pantene’s new Curly Hair Series, designed especially for waves, curls and kinks. From cleansing to styling to deep conditioning, the products in this line work together to give you repaired, moisturized, frizz-free curls every time. The collection provides a wide range of products to keep curls looking their best.

During a recent video shoot in New York, Danilo provided some curly hair tips to keep ringlets looking their best. The ideal style to achieve is the wash-and-wear look that works with your natural texture.

1. Diffuse your curls

A good hair diffuser is a curly girl’s best friend because it doesn’t have the rapid air movement of a blow dryer that could disrupt the curl pattern. For more volume, flip your hair upside down and diffuse.

2. Moisturize

Curly hair has an inherent need for moisture—moisture excites the curl! The Deep Moisturizing Treatment has been a huge hit with curly girls. For maximum results, Danilo suggests working the conditioner into the hair, and then combing it through after it sets for five minutes.

3. Manage that frizz

To reduce frizz, use a detangler and/or crème throughout the hair, like Light Conditioning Detangler and Anti-Frizz Straightening Crème. You can also fight frizz with a curl enhancing spray or mousse, like Curl Enhancing Spray Gel and Curl Defining Mousse.

4. Protect your hair from heat damage

Any type of iron works for curly hair, but be sure to protect hair from the heat by using a heat protection spray such as Heat Protection & Shine Spray.

5. Enhance your curls

If you have some curls that aren’t as tight as others, try finger-curling them. You can also enhance them by using a curling iron.

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Pssst!

NaturallyCurly was on site to help with the filming of 4 Pantene videos at the Mark Garrison Salon in New York City. We got four great models—our own curly community members!—with an incredible spectrum of hair. Both stylists—Tippy Shorter and Danilo—were amazing. Danilo is one of the hottest stylists right now. He does Katy Perry and Lady Gaga’s hair as well as such stars as Sarah Jessica Parker and Kate Hudson. He’s very down to earth, and very knowledgeable about curls. He was so good on camera, and really threw in a lot of great curly hair tips.

Check out this video from Tippy Shorter using Pantene’s Curly Hair Series products:

Tarin Boone’s natural hair journey started five years ago, with her own desire to find new creative styles for her newly natural hair. That journey has grown into Naturally Me! Media, a growing media company created last year to help multi-ethnic women discover, accept, and celebrate their natural hair and beauty. Her mission is to inform, entertain, educate and support natural beauties in the areas of beauty and lifestyle through conferences, videos, blog posts, mobile applications, and social media interaction. ‘Fro Fashion Week, Naturally Me! Media’s natural hair show, debuts February 18th-20th at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Atlanta.

NaturallyCurly talked with Boone about Naturally Me! Media and ‘Fro Fashion Week.

NC: Tell me about the inspiration for Naturally Me! Media.

Boone: I started going natural five years ago, and by year three, I was stuck in a rut. I started experimenting with styles I’d seen online, and coming up with my own styles. People would stop me and ask me about natural hair and about transitioning. One time, I was literally stampeded in Target by a lady who dragged me down the aisle to ask what I used in my hair.

NC: How did that evolve into your business?

Boone: Last summer, I started thinking I should write this stuff down and document it. Naturally Me! Media was born in July 2010. I started it as a blog and began getting tremendous traffic. The blog now features over 15 categories of information, including a hairstyle gallery and homemade hair and skin recipes. I also created the first iPhone application that helps women find black beauty supply stores in their area. Naturally Me! Media has become the umbrella for all my ideas.

NC: Tell me how you came up with the idea for ‘Fro Fashion Week.

Boone: I was looking through New York Fashion Week coverage, and I realized that no one sets the trends for natural hair for the seasons. My other profession is PR consultant, and I had clients telling me I should do an event. I began to brainstorm about a natural hair version of Fashion Week. ‘Fro Fashion Week stuck. The idea was to take what bloggers were posting about off the computer and make it a live event. It started as a one-day hair show, but I wanted to put a unique twist on it. Then we felt it needed a fashion show. It’s taken on a life of its own. It’s become my passion.

NC: What are some of your goals for ‘Fro Fashion Week?

Boone: For the people who attend, I want them to be informed no matter where they are in their hair journey— whether they’re thinking about transitioning or have been natural for 10 years. I want to give them a fresh twist on the norm. The styles they see and techniques they learn will enhance and better their lives. It will give them a different spin on what they can do. For the stylists who attend, it will be an opportunity to get inspiration, learn new techniques and meet new clientele.

NC: You also have talked about how ‘Fro Fashion Week can serve as an incubator for some of the new companies developing products for natural hair. Tell me more about that.

Boone: One my missions is to uplift and inspire other small businesses. This event will really give them the platform to be the next Hair Rules or Curls. It will give them a lot of exposure to people. This event (and their products”> will be blogged about for weeks after. I want companies to begin thinking of ‘Fro Fashion Week as the place to launch the latest, hottest, most ground-breaking products.

NC: What would you like to see ‘Fro Fashion Week become?

Boone: I’d like to take it on tour to cities like Houston, L.A. and Chicago. Each market has its own styles and culture. In L.A., they may be doing a different braiding technique than they’re doing in Houston. I want to keep it fresh and exciting.

John Frieda has announced three new products initially available exclusively at Drugstore.com.

Full Repair Touch-Up Flyaway Tamer

Full Repair Touch-Up Flyaway Tamer polishes broken strands for a perfectly shiny finish. The product, which contains Inca Inchi Oil, helps with damage from frequent heat styling or coloring. The crystal-clear formula with weightlessly smooths flyaways and frayed ends to keep full-bodied styles perfectly polished. Ideal for on-the-go touch-ups and a boost of shine.

Frizz-Ease 3-Day Straight Semi-Permanent Styling Spray

John Frieda Frizz-Ease 3-Day Straight Semi-Permanent Styling Spray creates visibly straighter hair for up to 3 days.

This revolutionary heat-activated formula with keratin protein wraps each strand to seal in longer-lasting straightness without weighing hair down. Protects against heat damage and blocks frizz.

Frizz-Ease 3-Day Straight Semi-Permanent Styling Spray

John Frieda Sheer Blonde Go Blonder Controlled Lightening Spray gradually lightens, brightens and blends. Versatile patent-pending formula with citrus and chamomile works with blow dryer heat to gradually lighten and brighten for a natural-looking blonder, blond. Visibly lightens in 3-5 uses. Spray thoroughly on towel-dried hair, then style as desired. For optimal lightening, use a flat iron or curling iron after blow-drying. The more heat you use, the greater the lightening effects. Safe for Color-Treated and Chemically Treated Hair.

Curly girls have been a rarity in Disney movies. So the fact that one of the stars of Disney’s new movie “Tangled” is curly is a major step forward – even if she’s evil. Really evil.

Mother Gothel is the main antagonist of the upcoming CGI animated film, “Tangled.” The Queen of a nearby kingdom was near death and had her guards search for this magical plant to heal her. They find it and the Queen heals, soon giving birth to Rapunzel. The flower’s abilities are in Rapunzel’s magical glowing hair that gives eternal youth. Mother Gothel acquires Rapunzel as a child, stealing her from the royal nursery and hiding her in an inaccessible tower. Gothel lies to Rapunzel about the outside world and everyone in it, imprisoning her in a tower to keep access to the youth-restoring qualities of her hair. The problem is, now Rapunzel’s all grown up, wants out and mama’s not going to have it.

But while Mother Gothel may have her issues, she does have great curls – beautiful black ringlets. The character is voiced by television actress and singer Donna Murphy. According to Pixarplanet.com, creating her long, curly hair wasn’t easy. They had to create and develop special techniques to create her 3b curls.

Maybe Disney’s next curly character will be the heroine. Baby steps.

OnSpeedDating.Com and NaturallyCurly.Com join forces next month to host a “kinky” new singles event from 7:30 pm – 9:00 pm on Thursday, December 2, at Gramercy hot spot The Watering Hole.

Whether wavy, curly or kinky, girls with curls will be the mane attraction at this “Curls Gone Wild” speed dating event, where single men ages 25-48 will meet 10-25 curly-haired single women in one night.

“We have an “ask and you shall receive” policy, explains OnSpeedDating.com Co-Founder, Amber Soletti, NaturallyCurly’s dating blogger. “If enough people request a speed dating theme, then we’ll make it happen. It’s funny because the Millionaire Matchmaker, Patti Stanger is so insistent that men want women with straight, sleek hair. Clearly not in NYC since we’re hosting a Curls Gone Wild event, not a “Play It Straight” event.

What is it about curly haired women that make men swoon?

“I’ve always had a thing for curly haired women”, says 35-year-old NY firefighter and resident single, Pedro BIsono. “They’re sexy, confident and I love that they can change their look on any given night. It definitely keeps things interesting.”

“My first curl crush was Jennifer Beals from Flash Dance,” shares resident single David Parnes, 35. “She kind of ruined me for other women, as I now tend to only be attracted to women with curly hair.”

A limited number of tickets (20 for men, 20 for curly-haired women”> will be available for purchase starting Thursday, November 18, exclusively at OnSpeedDating.com for $35 each. Admission price entitles attendees to anywhere from 10 to 20 three-minute “dates”, drink specials and for the curly women in attendance, curly hair care products provided by top hair care brands like HerCut, Miss Jessie’s, Devachan Salon and Deva Spa and Curlisto. BeautyTV will also provide women with free trial memberships to their website, where women can learn from top professional offering tips and tricks for caring for their hair.

“The timing is perfect for this event” says NaturallyCurly.com co-founder Michelle Breyer. “Since all the hype around Patti Stanger’s curl-bashing comments on ‘The Millionaire Matchmaker,” we’ve heard from a number of men about how they love their girlfriends’ and wives’ waves, curls and kinks because it is a part of what makes them who they are. Men are attracted to women who are confident in who they are—whether they have straight hair or ringlets.”

OnSpeedDating.com is an entirely new breed of speed dating. The service offers NYC singles niche events themed around dating deal breakers as well as quirks and fetishes like “Hot for Teacher”, “Date a Democrat”, “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes”, “Inked” for tattooed singles, “Non-Practicing Jew” night, “Have Passport, Will Travel”, “Mr. Right Now” and “Size Matters” for guys and gals with a hankering for height and “Wing Women” for women seeking a partner in crime when they hit the dating scene.

With the promise of at least 10-25 ‘dates’ per event, singles are sure to have their pick of matches.

In this occasional series, we have asked prominent industry professionals to tell us about their hair and what it was like growing up with curly hair.

In this Mahisha Dellinger, the multi-ethnic founder of the CURLS hair-care line shares her personal and professional experiences working with naturally curly hair.

Q: What kind of texture do you have? Describe your hair.

A: I have type 3b hair that’s not very frizz-prone, but is prone to dryness.

Q: How did you feel about your hair growing up?

A: I tortured my hair growing up. I am surprised that I had any hair at all! Because straight hair was considered the “ideal standard,” I felt that I needed to change my texture to belong. I, like most curlies, spent a good portion of my youth relaxing, straightening, coloring and removing the curl pattern from my hair.

Q: How has that changed since you became involved in the beauty industry?

A: Because I have a better understanding of how to properly care for curls, I now embrace my them. They are beautiful! I rarely ever straighten my hair now. The last time I had a blow out was five years ago.

Q: What are the biggest developments in the world of texture?

A: Honestly, just having products available for naturally curly hair (minus the gooey/greasy products mostly found in the ethnic aisles”> is a huge win for curlies! Our product offerings in the past were slim. Now there are a host of wonderful curly brands to choose from.

Q: What type of products/tools and what amount of time do you spend on your hair on “curly” days and on “straight” days?

A: I use two products: one styler (CURLS Milkshake for no hold or CURLS Curl Gel-les’c when I need more control/hold”>, and CURLS Quenched Curls Organic Moisturizer (to refresh and replenish my 2nd, 3rd, and 4th day hair”> on my curly days. When I wear my hair straight, I use a little CURLS Champagne & Caviar Curl Elixir as a heat protectant before flat ironing.

Q: Any other comments/observations on curly/textured hair?

A: If you treat your curls right, like a fine silk blouse, you will have beautiful, healthy curls that will last you a lifetime!

Toronto, ONT— For many years, people with curly hair have been looking for non-chemical ways to prevent their curls from shrinking. At a packed party at one of Toronto’s most exclusive clubs, Jonathan Torch, the creator and founder of Curly Hair Solutions and The Curly Hair Institute, unveiled his solution.

Torch introduced Extenzz, a non-chemical product that relaxes curls and prevents them from shrinking. By using the correct combing and styling techniques, Extenzz allows users to manipulate their curls into looser, well-defined, frizz-free curls without the look and feel of heavy oils.

“Over the years I’ve had a variety of clients, from all different ethnic groups, come into The Curly Hair Institute looking for natural, non-chemical ways to relax their textured hair,” Torch told the crowd of hairdressers, clients and media at Toronto’s Spoke Club. “After speaking with many people in the curly hair community, I began to develop a product that would fit their hair needs, no matter what their age or ethnic background.”

Torch says he spent years trying to find the ideal ingredient that could smooth the curls and keep the hair shiny and soft. After much trial and error, he said the answer turned out to be right in front of him: lecithin.

“It as a complete ‘aha’ moment,” Torch says. “It’s in all of my conditioners; it’s thick as tar and it makes the hair shiny.”

Extenzz is the latest innovation for Torch’s Curly Hair Solutions, a 100 percent silicone-free, natural hair care line. The line can be found in salons across North America and online at Curlmart and http://www.frizzoff.com.

Among the benefits of Extenzz, Torch says, are its ability to be reactivated with water and its ability to work on all curl types without a flaky, greasy feel.

The Jonathan Torch Curly Hair Institute is the first of its kind in North America. This groundbreaking endeavor is devoted exclusively to cutting, coloring, styling and conditioning every unique curl condition. This dedication to the art of curly hair continues to motivate Jonathan to continue developing more products for people with every curl type.

See Torch demonstrating Extenzz.

Short video to show you how I twist my hair. Only product used was unrefined Shea Butter. I prefer to twist on blow dried hair, but you can twist on your stretched natural texture if you like.

There was a time when the only option for temporarily changing curly hair to straight or straight hair to curly—or to go from long to short and back—was a wig or a chemical treatment.

These days, there are numerous ways that stylists and consumers can temporarily change the look of hair, without chemicals. They range from innovative new styling products to natural-looking extensions.

Product Innovations

Toronto stylist Jonathan Torch, creator of the Curly hair Solutions line of products, wanted to create a product that could temporarily loosen curls without chemicals. He spent years trying to find the ideal ingredient that could smooth the curls and keep the hair shiny and soft.

The answer, he says, was lecithin.

“It as a complete ‘aha’ moment,” Torch says. “It’s in all of my conditioners; it’s thick as tar and it makes the hair shiny.”

Curly Hair Solutions is launching Extenzz this fall, which pushes water into the hair and uses the weight of the wet hair to straighten or loosen curl by using the product in conjunction with different brushing techniques.

While Curly Hair Solutions discovered a creative way to relax curls by using eggs (which contain lecithin”>, many of the most exciting advances have come in the laboratory, where chemists have concocted new formulations of polymers and silicones that help straighten and defrizz hair.

Living Proof, which has stormed onto the beauty scene, developed a new technology called polyfluoroEster—a smaller molecule than the traditional materials used for frizz control. Due to its chemical nature, the formulation adheres tightly to the hair, which allows for long-lasting moisture resistance and rebalancing of the hair fiber’s interaction with the atmosphere, even after extreme humidity.

“It helps prevent friction that causes hair to frizz,” says Eric Spengler, senior vice president of research and development for Living Proof, a line sold in both professional and consumer outlets. The Living Proof No Frizz Straight Styling line is designed to make it easier to and faster to blow out hair, while the Wave collection helps define curls.

“These products provide an alternative to silicone and more permanent chemical treatments,” Spengler says.

Stay tuned for several new products in the coming months that will be able to give people a straighter, smoother look for several days without using chemicals.

Hair Extensions

With hair extensions, a client can go from curly to straight, straight to curly and from long to short. They can even get bangs, without the long-term commitment. Extensions are available in clip-ons, which can be put on for a quick change, to strand-by-strand extensions that can last several months.

“Extensions are a great option to chemicals, whether it be texture or color,” says Kimberly Castagna, public relations assistant at SO.CAP USA Hair Extensions, a leader in the world market of producing natural and synthetic hair.

“With our extensions, people have found they can create texture that feels better and looks more natural than their own hair.”

Curly hair can get a smooth, elegant look by pulling the hair back and adding straight extensions. Wavy and curly extensions can be added to straighter hair for a completely different look. You can also add volume without length by putting in strand-by-strand extensions, Castagna says. Extensions are being used in place of wigs by some women who have undergone chemotherapy.

“It gives them the option of looking like its their own hair,” she says.

According to Darby Shields, associate artistic director for ISO, there are two 4-letter words in hairdressing: bangs and perms.

When it comes to perms “We now say ‘body’ or ‘movement’ or ‘texture’,” says Shields.

Whatever you choose to call them—texturizers, waves or perms—the technology has come a long way. Unlike the poodle perms of the past, today’s perms have the ability to deliver sexy, fashion-forward texture without sacrificing the health of your hair. They are definitely not our mothers’ perms.

Demand is on the rise as texture—from beachy waves to curls—has become increasingly fashionable.

The whole process has changed dramatically from the day of strong chemicals, perm rods and end papers.

In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave, the precursor to the modern perm. It used no machines and no heat. The hair was wrapped on rods and a reduction lotion containing ammonium thioglycolate was applied. This chemical breaks open the disulfide linkages between the polypeptide bonds in the keratin (the protein structure”> in the hair. The disulfide bonds give hair its elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Next, an oxidation lotion was applied, (hydrogen peroxide”>, to close the disulfide bridges again and the hair was reformed to the shape of the rod. The entire process took 6–8 hours at room temperature. These treatments evolved into perms using ammonium thioglycolate, and then sodium thioglycolate, which cut processing time.

The new generation of perms are much gentler, with lower pH and low ammonia, giving the stylist more control over the outcome. ISO’s Option Wave, for example, is an award-winning professional perm system completely free of thio, the activator found in many traditional perms. It uses ISOamine, an exclusive technology that allows for deeper and more even penetration into the hair’s cortex with minimal swelling of the cuticle. Minimal swelling means hair’s internal and external structures and condition are maintained.

And the application also has changed dramatically from the day of perm rods and end papers. Today’s tools are flexible and soft, or no tools at all are used.

“You can make pin curls and process that, if you want,” Sheilds says. “You can do just about anything you want.”

Steve Goddard was working at Redken in 1994—“the day perms died.” He recalls working with chemists to come up with a new type of permanent rave. While talking to a focus group of 12 young stylists, he asked them for feedback on anmes and positioning.

“I started the presentation and notice that they’re all looking at me like I stepped off the moon,” says Goddard, president and founder of Pravana Naturceuticals.

“They all said ‘We don’t do perms,’”Goddard recalled.

Goddard asked, “None of you do perms?”

“None of us do perms,” they replied.

“Absolutely none?” he asked.

“We don’t do them and we don’t want to do them,” the stylists replied.

For the next 14 years, stick straight hair was the trend. But two years ago, he started to notice celebrities wearing soft waves. Goddard started looking and listening, and realized this trend was different than the perm trend that had caught fire in the 1980s. These waves were longer and less defined—beachier.

Goddard decided to create a product that could give women this beachy look—the Pravana Beach Wave. With that mission in mind, he realized he would have to create a formula different than the alkaline waves, which create a firmer, crisper curl than he wanted for this look An acid wave would provide the softness, but wouldn’t be firm enough for longer hair.

“We would lose the wave because of the weight,” he says. “We realized we needed to come up with a hybrid in terms of a wave solution. We developed a wave that uses amino acid technology to replace thioglycolate, giving the firmness of a wave without the crispness and definition.”

In addition to the actual solution, Goddard wanted to create an easy-to-use way to wrap the hair that wouldn’t leave marks The answer was to use wave blocks. Rather than the 70 to 80 rods used for a traditional perm, a stylist can use as few as 18 wave blocks to wrap up the head in a matter of 10 minutes.

“There is so much variety now, and that carries over to the textural spectrum,” Goddard says. “It’s not just about different cuts today. It’s about different textures. It’s our job to find out what people are doing and what they want, and then come up with a way for them to do it easily.”

In 1938, Arnold F. Willatt invented the cold wave, the precursor to the modern perm. It used no machines and no heat. The hair was wrapped on rods and a reduction lotion containing ammonium thioglycolate was applied. This chemical breaks open the disulfide linkages between the polypeptide bonds in the keratin (the protein structure”> in the hair. The disulfide bonds give hair its elasticity, and can be reformed with chemicals. Next, an oxidation lotion was applied, (hydrogen peroxide”>, to close the disulfide bridges again and the hair was reformed to the shape of the rod. The entire process took 6–8 hours at room temperature. These evolved into perms using ammonium thioglycolate, and then sodium thioglycolate.

But stylists still have some image hurdles to overcome to get the word out about this new generation of perms.

“People do come in for perms, but they don’t want to say it,” Shields says. “They may bring in a picture of Taylor Swift or Kate Hudson, and I tell them I can make their hair look like that chemically.”

Shields also having some examples by your chair of the results that can be achieved with texturizers. She suggests wrapping hair pieces with different tools and have them hanging around your station to show the different types of waves and curls you can create.

“It’s a huge opportunity,”says Shields. “Judging from the way people are asking for texture on both coasts, I’m sure it will permeate the rest of the country in short order. To be on the leading edge of that can be a huge advantage. You can really build your business if you become known for this new generation of retexturizers.”

The chemicals being used also are much different, with less ammonia and lower pHs. ISO’s Option Wave, for example, This award-winning professional perm system completely free of thio, the activator found in many traditional perms, and also Damage-free, low ammonia formulation. It uses ISOamine™, an exclusive technology that allows for deeper and more even penetration into the hair’s cortex with minimal swelling of the cuticle. Minimal swelling means hair’s internal and external structures and condition are maintained.

And the application also has changed dramatically from the day of perm rods and end papers. Today’s tools are flexible and soft or no tools.

“You can make pin curls and process that, if you want,” Sheilds says. “You can do just about anything you want.”

A Perm Primer

Root Perm

A savior for those with short, flat hair—the root perm helps add volume at the root of the hair to give lots of body. It’s also perfect for already permed hair that’s looking for a little pick-me-up. Because only the roots are treated, it saves the rest of the lady’s locks from another treatment.

Body Wave Perm

Creating big, bouncy curls as opposed to tight, spring curls – the body wave perm is for curl-lovers who want a more modern curly look. The goal is to inject body and a little curl without adding a ton of ‘poof’ to the hair. Because this perm uses larger perm rods than traditional perms, the length of your client’s hair will determine how curly it will be: the shorter, the curlier.

Weave Perm

Because you’re curling only partial sections of the hair, the weave perm will give your client a fabulous, fusion look with both textured and straight pieces in her hair. She’ll be treated with great versatility by choosing how much of her hair is treated for this modern look.

Stack Perm

Finally a solution for women without layers, the stack perm is made for women who have a one-length cut. The treatment creates soft, layered curls for a natural look and is achieved by the use of differently sized rollers to the middle and bottom sections of the hair. The top is typically left flat to create a more a more natural look.

Acid Perm

While it sounds harsh, the acid perm is actually gentler than the traditional alkaline perm as it has a lower pH level. It is specifically made for those with sensitive, fragile, or damaged hair. This perm will still create beautiful curls without as much damage to the hair follicle.

Exothermic Perm

Referring to the gentle, internal heat that is characteristic of this treatment, the exothermic perm helps speed up the processing time. The heat helps to allow the lotion to absorb quickly into the hair, conditioning and strengthening the cuticle from the inside. Your client will walk out with beautiful, bouncy curls from this innovative treatment.

What if there was a product that allowed you to get exactly what they want? It could be used to straighten, loosen or defrizz waves and curls without damaging hair or creating an awkward grow-out period. What if this product could be used on any hair type to make the hair softer and shinier?

That product, say some stylists, now exists. Keratin treatments have exploded onto the scene, generating buzz among consumers and stylists alike.

A Cure for Frizz?

Three years ago, a handful of keratin companies existed— pioneers like Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Teixeira, Keratin Complex by Coppola and Global Keratin. At July’s 2010 Cosmoprof North America show in Las Vegas, there were more than 40 companies offering keratin treatment products, from large hair-care companies to small start ups.

“To have a product like a keratin straightener is a breakthrough,” says Stephanie Kocielski, John Paul Mitchell education director.

Not so long ago, the only option to remove texture in the hair was to use a product containing sodium hydroxide— lye. Next came relaxers containing ammonium thioglycolate (nicknamed “thio relaxer””>, a gentler service.

More recently, those opting for a straighter look flocked to Japanese thermal reconditioning, a chemical process that permanently alters the internal structure of the hair shaft, rendering it totally straight. Thermal reconditioning was an all-or-nothing proposition, and many women with texture weren’t willing to commit to it.

But keratin treatments have not been without their share of controversy, either. When they first came on the scene, the formulas contained formaldehyde—sometimes in high concentrations. Formaldehyde is listed as a carcinogen by a number of health and safety agencies. Now many of the treatments are lower or free of formaldehyde and aldehydes, a family of compounds that straighten the hair. Many of the aldehydes are naturally derived and less toxic than formaldehyde. Additionally, some stylists and clients may wear masks to protect themselves from any irritants.

A World of Options

Today’s new wave of relaxers, silkeners and smoothers give clients and stylists more choices than ever.

“It’s all about making your texture—whatever it is—better,” says Sasha Polit, marketing manager for Global Keratin Smoothing System. “If you want to change the texture, we offer that option, but if you want to work with your natural texture, we also offer that option.”

Global Keratin offers Light Wave, for those who want to keep their natural texture; Curly, for those who want more straightening capability; and Resistant, for the straightest look.

Methods vary, but the most commonly-used keratin treatment involves the stylist washing a client’s hair with a clarifying shampoo, applying the keratin treatment and then using a flat iron to straighten the hair and “seal” the treatment.

Before

“In the past, there weren’t a lot of options,” says Darby Shields, associate artistic director for ISO, which developed the Maintamer, a semi-permanent retexturizer that softens and smooths naturally curly or previously permed hair. “You either had floppy hair, curly hair or straw hair. There wasn’t a lot in between. It was

a big decision for people to do something so permanent with their hair. Maintamer is reversible the next day.”

After

With variety of new options comes an increased need for communication between stylist and client.

“When they start asking about a treatment, you have to dig deep into what they really want,” says Amanda Jenkins, master stylist and education director at Arrojo Studio. “Can they achieve it without a chemical treatment? I ask my clients to bring in pictures so we’re both very clear about what they’re expecting. It’s all about the consultation.”

Sleek Service

Some clients may want their hair completely straight. In that case, Kocielski says she might suggest The Relaxer by JPMS, a sodium hydroxide relaxer that eliminates curl. “Some people think they’ll be able to wash their hair and it will dry straight, but that’s probably not the case with a keratin treatment,” she says. “Keratin treatments can condition and soften the hair, but they don’t always straighten it.” Price is also an important consideration. Keratin treatments and other types of chemical relaxers cost several hundred dollars, and may need to be redone every three to five months.

In addition to the in-salon treatments, companies like Keratin Complex, Global Keratin and Marcia Teixeira Brazilian Keratin Treatment offer maintenance products designed to extend the life of the service and enhance the results.

The PhytoSpecific PhytoRelaxer relaxes or texturizes all hair types with a non-chemical formula. It comes in two levels: one for fine, delicate hair and one for coarse, resistant hair.

Smooth Operators

Here are a few of the keratin treatments available on the market today:

Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy by Coppola: Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy was founded by stylist and salon owner Peter Coppola. The therapy eliminates up to 95 percent of frizz and curl and instantly adds shine and condition to the hair.

Marcia Teixeira Brazilian Keratin Treatment: This treatment is for all kinds of hair to leave it soft, shiny and frizz-free for up to four months. It can be used safely on just about any type of hair—dry, frizzy, over-processed, color-treated, ethnic unprocessed virgin hair.

Pravana Kerafusion Keratin Treatment: This salon service permanently transforms coarse, curly, unruly hair to smooth, straight and shiny. Or, it makes fine, limp hair voluminous. It contains no thio, no sodium hydroxide, no formaldehyde, no aldehydes. As part of the Keratin Fusion service, Pravana’s Thermal Insulator protects the hair during the texture control.

Brazilian Blowout: Through the use of a Brazilian Super Nutrient Complex and a proprietary polymer system, the Brazilian Blowout improves the condition of the hair by creating a protective protein layer around the hair shaft to eliminate frizz and smooth the cuticle. Results last up to 12 weeks.

Global Keratin: The Juvexin Hair Taming System incorporates a keratin formulation which protects the hair and prevents damage to hair surface. The system is an organic, active complex component, delivered to the hair in its raw, natural state. Amino acids and proteins remain whole to condition hair and

protect it from damage caused by environmental factors.

ISO Maintamer: ISO Maintamer Straightening System is a two-step straightening system that smoothes coarse hair, taming unruly curls and waves, un-perming ends and controlling frizzy hair. Maintamer uses a damage-free, thio-free, lye-free Isoamine technology that processes primarily within the cortex of the hair, to minimize damage to the cuticle while altering the pattern of naturally curly or previously permed

hair to soften and smooth.

La Brasiliana: Intense treatment that softens, smoothes and relaxes all hair types. Available in Original, Apple and Mocha varieties.

PhytoSpecific PhytoRelaxer: This non-chemical relaxer relaxes or texturizes all hair types. Formulated with molecules from egg and soya, it is odorless and does not contain lye. It’s available in two levels: for fine, delicate hair and one for coarse, resistant hair.

For decades, stylists and consumers have relied on the tried-and-true tools to create textured styles. Diffusers help coax the natural curl out of the hair. Flat irons straighten and smooth. Curling irons add ringlets or waves. While these tools are still useful in the salon setting and at home, technology is changing—advancing the way stylists texturize hair—and evolving the way salons do business.

CHI Orbit

Why it’s cool: CHI Orbits are available in multiple sizes to mimic diverse natural curl patterns. When used on curly hair, the Orbit tames frizz and reroutes curls. Orbit tools use CHI 44 technology to penetrate the hair shaft giving each curl long-lasting results with elasticity. A non-stick heating surface lets hair be wrapped around without tangles or pulling and alleviating wrist strain.

White Sands Curling Iron

Why it’s cool: This curling iron fuses together the spring iron and Marcel methods into one tool. Utilize the professionalism and wave technique of a Marcel iron to create waves or switch to the direct control and ease of a spring load without the need for multiple irons. Check it out!

Joico K-PAK ReconstRx Vapor Iron

Why it’s cool: K-PAK ReconstRx Vapor Iron infuses hair with K-PAK Quadramine Complex, which reconstructs and nourishes hair, working from the inside out to improve hair’s health and condition. The iron’s vented ceramic/silicon hybrid plates and Vapor Fuel steam produce shiny, vibrant hair. Check it out!

Belson Triple-Barrel Waver

Why it’s cool: The intuitive controls allow the user to choose heat settings according to hair type, including synthetic extensions and wigs. Select the “hair type” button and the iron automatically adjusts to the precise temperature setting needed. Nano ceramic coated triple barrels radiate gentle farinfrared heat, locking in moisture in the hair shaft and sealing the cuticle from damage; leaving hair frizz-free, shiny and silky. Check it out!

Babyliss Pro Nano Titanium 1″ U Styler

Why it’s cool: Sol-Gel technology reduces friction for a strong, smooth glide, while the curved side heating plates create curls in one smooth flip. Straighten, add body, wave and curls. Includes a ceramic heater for consistent heat and recovery, up to 450°F. Plus stay-cool Ryton housing, a rubberized thumb rest, and a cool tip for comfort. Check it out!

Curlformers

Why it’s cool: Fun and easy to apply, Curlformers can be used to create glossy curls and loose sexy waves, or to add texture and body without subjecting hair to heat or damage. Check it out!

DevaConcepts DevaSun Dryer

Why it’s cool: Designed specifically for curly tresses, the DevaSun Dryer uses ion-generating technology and features three custom temperature settings for curly and wavy hair. The hand-shaped DevaFuser utilizes a 360-degree airflow to gently dry curls from the inside out. Check it out!

Finally, someone who recognizes the value of curly hair!

The long, flowing black hair that tumbles out of Pittsburgh Steelers player Troy Polamalu’s helmet and down his back—it’s nearly three feet long—has been insured for $1 million by Head and Shoulders, the shampoo brand that is endorsed by the Steelers safety.

The insurance was obtained through Lloyd’s of London, which did not reveal what must be done to Polamalu’s hair for anyone to collect on the policy.

Polamalu’s hair has been targeted by an opposing NFL player at least once—the Chiefs’ Larry Johnson tackled Polamalu by the hair during a 49-yard interception return in a 2006 game.

Polamalu, a five-time Pro Bowl player, wears his hair long as a tribute to his Samoan heritage.

— From The Associated Press

Former model and TV personality Veronica Webb walks with her two daughters Leila Rose, 7, and Molly Blue Robb, 6. These two look cute as buttons in their matching tutu-esque skirts and matching loose light brown curls.

— Toree Roy

Rozonda “Chili” Thomas of the singing group TLC was one of the presenters at VH1’s 2010 Hip Honors “Honoring the Dirty South”, which aired on Monday, June 7. Here she is on the red carpet looking spectacular in a metallic gray/silver jumper and pretty, brunette and bouncy curls. Chili recently starred in her own hit reality show “What Chili wants” on VH1.

— Toree Roy