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Sophie-Marie’s curls have undergone quite the transition. Here, she explains what motivated her journey and how she kept going through any bumps along the way.
Why I straightened my hair
Pre 2004, my hair was brushed as a child as my parents didn’t know how to look after it. I would constantly compare my hair to others at school because they were my only reference points available. I would have done anything for straight hair!
Between 2004 and 2019, I was convinced I needed to have smooth, straight hair to look professional or put together. The media whilst I was at school demonised frizzy hair, especially TV adverts where they convince you that you need a solution to frizz and that solution was to straighten it. In reality, in my case as in most, behind the frizz there were curls waiting to flourish – they just needed some TLC.
I remember walking through a shopping centre as a teenager in my hometown and I would constantly get stopped by those straightening/blow out stands asking if they could straighten my frizzy hair and sell me a straightener. I would take them up on it every-time praying it wasn’t going to rain. My parents and my hair dresser at the time begged me to wear it curly but I just wasn’t equipped with the knowledge at that time and wanted it straight as a board.
My Inspirations
From late 2019 onwards, I would see other people in the street with curly hair and think “wow so beautiful” including my best friend from uni. I realised this was actually what my hair was like as a child. This inspired and challenged me to see if it was possible to reverse the damage from heat and bleach and get my hair to curl up again. At this time, I had begun to get frustrated with how my hair would break at the bottom and would never grow as long as my friends with naturally straight hair. At this stage in November 2019, I started to realise the importance of hair health being correlated with length and stopped straightening my hair to see what would happen. I was going to the gym in the mornings so after washing my hair before work I’d have to lather on Moroccan oil to tame the frizz, I didn’t realise what “weighing down” hair was or that curl creams existed.
During lockdown, I was freed up from the need to keep up the image of straightening my hair to fit in because, obviously nobody would see me. This therefore seemed like the perfect time for trial and error to see if I could fully get my curls back. I wanted to be happy with myself. I felt like I had been trying to be somebody I wasn’t over the last 10 years. Just like many people, lockdown forced me to sit with myself, with no distractions, and reflect.
My Curly Transformation Phases
Phase 1 – March 2020:
The first thing I did was type into Google how to get my curls back. I saw so much information on Instagram and Youtube about the Curly Girl Method. It seemed convincing so I started following the guidelines straight away. I threw out all silicones and sulphate products I had and stopped straightening. When washing my hair, I’d apply these extremely thick conditioning treatments from Shea moisture and simply let my hair dry. This alone did help me to progress to what I’d call phase one. I started to see some defined waves, but still nothing like what I once knew to be my hair. This slight progress got me so excited. It helped that my partner was cheering me along the whole time; he was always positive about me embracing my curls.
Phase 2 – July 28th 2020:
It was at this time that I decided to start my Instagram page. This was to simply keep myself accountable for my hair progress, and to maybe connect with others doing the same thing. I was yet to discover how many people were also doing the same thing over lockdown and the amazing curly community.
I quickly started connecting with others online and was using drugstore brands like Shea Moisture, Umberto Giannini and Cake Beauty. My routine for so long was a Shea Moisture leave-in conditioner, the Umberto Giannini Curl Jelly, the Cake Beauty mousse, and a weekly deep conditioning treatment from Shea Moisture. I washed my hair strictly once a week, and I really started to see some progress.
Phase 3 Sept/Nov 2020:
My curls were becoming quite defined and I saw massive progress already, but I started to notice the difference between the curls at my root and the straighter more damaged parts at the end. I desperately wanted a haircut but due to lockdown, I couldn’t get to a hairdresser. That’s when I decided to cut it myself with some sharp kitchen scissors! I had no idea what I was doing but this seemed to help the overall appearance and consistency of curl pattern throughout. It was however, very uneven! I even got brave enough to cut a fringe. I put a poll up on Instagram to 1,000 people saying should I do it and one person voted “do it” which was Emma aka @curly.robbo so I did it!
I desperately wanted a haircut but due to lockdown, I couldn’t get to a hairdresser. That’s when I decided to cut it myself with some sharp kitchen scissors!
Around this time, I started to notice my hair was thinning at my scalp. I also had extreme build-up and my head was itchy. I was confused about why my scalp wasn’t feeling clean anymore. I started to research and educated myself on how to effectively cleanse my scalp. I had realised that whilst my hair might have progressed, my scalp wasn’t benefiting from CGM “low-poo washing”. Because I was desperate and concerned about hair loss, I decided to go straight back to sulphates. Now I realise that there are cleansing shampoos out there without sulphates but I personally prefer a very strong cleanser once in a while. Since implementing cleansing shampoos back once every two weeks, my scalp has thanked me. I also started researching the benefits of silicones and realised the purpose of them in my routine. I didn’t notice build up re-introducing them; I only noticed the benefits of sealing my strands for protection and shine.
Phase 4 and Beyond:
One day Only Curls reached out to me on Instagram to gift me a box of their mini sized products. I was over the moon that a brand was reaching out to me and this was the first time I noticed an insane spring up in my curls. My hair really enjoyed the light weight consistency of the products and I began realising that curl type didn’t have a specific correlation with density. Someone could have very curly hair that was fine. I realised my hair was medium-density but truly loved the light weight products.
I saw Manes by Mell on YouTube talking about this detox kit for your scalp by Curlsmith and since I was very wary of scalp care from previous build-up experience I invested in the kit. I was immediately obsessed, and went down a rabbit hole looking at all the Curlsmith products. I went on to purchase their strength protein line and this was a very big turning point for my curls. I realised my hair LOVES protein. My curls went from around a curly wave, to a full-on curl. I became truly obsessed with Curlsmith. This was before I ever worked with them.
Whilst I rate a lot of brands and have staple products from many, Curlsmith and Only Curls changed the game for me. I am blessed to be able to work with them now and create content for brands I truly adored from day one. I love making videos and hair reels to share what I’ve learned so far. My account has always been about trial and error; I never claim to be an expert. I am not qualified in hair or product formulation but I truly love what looking after my curls has taught me about self-love and identityI am not here for the “rules” there is not a one size fits all approach and what works for me might not work for others. We are all unique all with different heads of curls and what’s so cool and special about the curly community. I hope I can continue to inspire others to embrace their curls and have fun with it along the way.
The NaturallyCurly Best of the Best awards, as voted by the NaturallyCurly community, are hotly anticipated every year. You vote on your favorite curl products in every category you can think of! The list of winners is extensive and the amount of information can be overwhelming, so here we break down the most popular styling products in each category for Type 3 curls, to make it easy for you to find your next Holy Grail!
What does Type 3 mean?
The categories “Type 2 Wavy,” Type 3 Curly,” and “Type 4 Coily” are ways to describe the size of the curl pattern. We know that the term “curly” is too broad to describe all of the different shapes, sizes, and varieties of curls. If you want to learn more, try our Texture Typing Quiz. Understanding your curl pattern (whether you’re wavy, curly, or coily”> is only one facet of your hair type. There’s also your hair’s porosity, density, and width, and you can learn about all of it by taking the quiz.
Best Mousse for Type 3 Curls
Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk Curl Activating Mousse
This crazily popular mousse is number one for a reason! It’s one of the most moisturising mousses for frizz-controlled curls; curl blogger Gena Marie claims that it almost feels like a cream when you apply it. Curlies love the lightweight hold that the mousse provides, and it’s great for adding volume to fine curly or wavy hair. Users also rave about the shine that it provides which is unusual for a mousse.
Best Styling Cream for Type 3 Curls
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie
Can you think of more delicious scent combination than this? As well as smelling beautiful, this curl-defining smoothie reduces frizz and smooths curly hair for a soft, silky feel. It is amazing at restoring moisture, creating shine and conditioning hair without weighing it down. A coconut oil-based leave-in conditioner enriched with Silk Protein and Neem, this smoothie has a luxurious feel to it. One reviewer said: “I love how cheap and gourmet it is at the same time!”
Best Hair Gel for Type 3 Curls
Ecoco Eco Styler Argan Oil Gel
This budget friendly gel is a perennial favorite amongst curlies in the know. Formulated with Argan tree oils from Morocco, this gel tames frizzy hair, while also adding shine and UV protection. It’s loved because it is weightless while providing a strong hold, everything needed in a gel!
Best Edge Control for Type 3 Curls
Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Edge Gel
Formulated with biotin, coconut and babassu oil, this soft, manageable gel infuses your hair with strength and essential nutrients, while smelling amazing. It’s loved by curlies for its long-hold taming of edges without breakage and it also supports healthy edge growth.
Best Styler for Type 3 Twists & Braids
Ampro Shine’n Jam Conditioning Gel Extra Hold
This moisturizing, non-flaking gel’s special ingredient is Honey Extract which helps to strengthen hair while providing superior hold. It’s perfect for soft waves, braids, locks or twists. A reviewer said it creates “flawless parts and makes braids sleek, shiny and frizz free.”
Holy Grail Product for Type 3 Curls
The Doux Mousse Def Texture Foam
Curlies have been raving about the Doux Mousse Def Texture Foam as a one-and-done styler and anything that makes hair styling easier sounds good to us! The foam contains natural Humectants to provide moisture and Silk Protein for strength and hold, meaning it can be used without other stylers. Users love the definition the foam provides while leaving the hair light and moveable. Definitely one to try!
Best Hairspray for Type 3 Curls
Bounce Curl Hair Spray
“Wowzers! This hairspray left me speechless.” This was the response of one reviewer about this spray and it represents many curlies’ feelings about this medium-to-strong hold hairspray. It contains a magical mix of Organic Black Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sage Extract and Boswellia Carterii Oil and works well at any time of year.
Best Volumizer for Type 3 Curls
AG Hair Natural Cloud Airlight Volumizing Mousse
This super light volumizing mousse “really is light as air” according to one reviewer. It contains Natural Corn Starch, Tilia Tomentosa Bud Extract, and Sugar Cane Extract which offer instant volume whilst also protecting against heat; a mixture of Sweet Almond Oil and Linseed oil creates shiny curls. AG’s delightful blend of natural Orange and Tangerine essential oils adds light aromatherapy fragrances.
Best Heat Protectant for Type 3 Curls
TRESemmé Thermal Creations Heat Tamer
This heat protectant spray swept the boards in all curl-type categories this year! Containing a moisture-locking vitamin complex, this heat protection spray protects against flat irons and curling irons leaving hair shiny and soft. It also has a fruity scent of pear, apple and peach coupled with a floral bouquet of rose, jasmine and lily of the valley. Users love the fact that the spray does not leave hair sticky or weight it down. A super spray!
What’s your Holy Grail styling product for your curls? Let us (and other curlies”> know in the comments!
iStockphoto
Finally got your curly hair on point but ended up with acne outbreaks? That could be because the products that are working on your hair might not be so good for your skin. Because curlies tend to use a lot of products on our curls – many of them heavy in oils or butters – excess products can rub off from your hair onto your skin or ‘bleed’ onto the skin with sweat. Common areas for acne are along the hairline on your forehead, at the top of the back and along the jawline. Don’t despair though – there are ways to keep it at bay, or at least not to exacerbate it, with your hair routine.
1. Clean Your Face After Applying Products
Once you’ve added all of your products, give your face a quick cleanse or wash with water, paying particularly close attention to the skin closest to the hairline, to remove excess product from the skin.
2. Cover Your Shoulders
Apply styling products with a towel over your shoulders or while wearing a t-shirt. This will help if you have a problem upper back area.
3. Use Sleep Protection
As well as using a satin or silk pillowcase, which is generally better for you skin than cotton, try putting your hair up, either in a pineapple, silk scarf or bonnet. As you move about at night your hair rubs against your face and can aggravate your acne. Make sure you wash pillowcases regularly as well, in a detergent that’s gentle on your skin.
4. Go Product-Free for Exercise
Or at least avoid applying any fresh products. Sweat could cause products to drip or run onto your skin. If you can’t avoid this and don’t want to wear a headband, dab the sweat off your skin around the hair with a towel.
5. Avoid Acne-Causing Ingredients
If these steps are still not helping, you might want to think about the ingredients in your products that could be worsening your acne. Petroleum, mineral oil and lanolin are heavy and can block your pores so try avoiding these. In addition, there is a specific type of ingredient that you can try to eliminate. Board-certified dermatologist Hope Mitchell says, “Many of the comedogenic ingredients in hair products can cause acne.”
Comedogenic Ingredients
Comedogenic ingredients can cause blackheads; some examples are:
- cocoa butter
- Moroccan oil
- coconut oil
- almond oil
- soybean oil
- avocado oil
- olive oil
Non-Comedogenic Ingredients
Examples of non-comedogenic ingredients include:
- jojoba oil
- sunflower oil
- safflower oil
- squalene
- castor oil
- all essential oils
The list of comedogenic ingredients is long so try eliminating a few a time. If you don’t have time for that, you could check out our product recommendations below.
>“Many of the comedogenic ingredients in hair products can cause acne.” – Board-certified dermatologist Hope Mitchell
Product Recommendations for Acne-Prone Skin
Here is a list of products that might help acne-prone curlies:
There are a lot of strange terms in the curly world, but by far the weirdest must be plopping! And now you can add another weird term to your curly vocabulary: microplopping. And if neither plopping or microplopping work for you, we have one more option for you, known as wet plopping.
What is Plopping?
Plopping is a way of removing excess water from your curls prior to air drying or diffusing, without drying them out too much and without disturbing the curl pattern. It also enhances the scrunching effect you create with your hands by pressing your hair to your head, resulting in better definition and shrinkage.
What is Microplopping?
No this doesn’t mean doing it with a tiny towel! Sometimes, the weight of the water-filled hair piled on top of your scalp can cause flat roots – particularly if you plop for too long. Because of this, some curlies prefer to micro-plop. Below, we’ll get into the difference between the two.
To see these techniques in action, here’s how I plop. Slide 1 is micro-plopping, slide 2 is plopping with a t-shirt/ wrap on the floor, slide 3 is plopping standing up if you don’t like doing it on the floor!
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What is Wet-Plopping?
The wet-plop is a method of plopping with a shower cap. This is a great option if you have low porosity hair which takes longer to absorb moisture and product.
How to plop curly hair
The good thing about plopping is it’s one of the cheapest curly girl tricks you will come across.
What to use:
The first thing to consider are your tools. You can use a microfiber towel, t-shirt towel or just a plain old t-shirt (the larger the better”>!
Microfiber and T-shirt towels are made with smaller, smoother fibers than normal towels that are gentler on hair. There are a whole host of mircofiber towels that you can use, for example, the DevaCurl Anti-Frizz Microfiber Towel, or you can try another natural fibre like the Infinitii Oils Bamboo Fibre Hair Wrap which is super gentle on the hair.
What to do:
- Starting with wet hair, apply product and style your curls as usual.
- Spread your towel or t-shirt out on a flat surface – the floor or a bed is ideal.
- Slowly and gently “plop” your hair onto the towel or t-shirt by bending over and placing the ends of your curls on the towel – your forehead should be towards the edge of the towel or t-shirt so you can wrap it around your head after you’ve plopped.
- Lower your head towards the towel until your head touches it. Top tip: try to get the curls to ‘coil’ on top of themselves which will maintain the integrity of the curl. Slow and steady is the name of the game here!
- Wrap the towel or t-shirt around your head, twisting-up any excess fabric into a tail and folding it towards the back of your neck. Secure the twist by tucking it under the back of the towel or piling gently on top of the head. This is where long-sleeved t-shirts work well because you can tie the sleeves to secure the plop.
- Now you can get on with getting dressed etc while the excess water is absorbed. How long you wait is a personal choice. Some may leave it for just ten minutes, some up to half an hour and more. One thing to bear in mind, however, is the longer you leave the water in the hair, the more chance there is of hair becoming too water- logged, soft and mushy. The idea is to remove the excess water, not leave it sitting on the hair for too long.
- Gently remove the towel, trying not to disturb the curl clumps, and air dry or diffuse.
How to Micro-Plop
Now we’ve covered the basics of plopping, let’s look at micro-plopping.
What to use:
For this technique it’s best to use a t-shirt. You can use a micro-fibre towel for this but the turban shapes of many of these towels and wraps can make this slightly more difficult.
What to do:
- Starting with wet hair, apply product and style your curls as usual.
- Drape your t-shirt over your hands and cup sections of your wet curls in your palms scrunching upwards.
- Repeat this motion, working gently and slowly on all of your hair.
- To create even more lift at the root, you can do this with your head upside down or from side to side. This removes excess water and product while not leaving the curls to sit on top of the head, which can flatten the roots.
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How to Wet-Plop
Wet plopping a method for helping your hair absorb products by putting on a shower cap. You can follow this up by plopping with a t-shirt to help dry your hair, which you can see @honestlizhere doing above.
What to use:
With wet-plopping, you plop your curls into a shower cap instead of a t-shirt or towel.
What to do:
- Starting with wet hair, apply product and style your curls as usual.
- Put on a shower cap and leave your products in for ten minutes to absorb.
What if plopping gives me flat roots?
To avoid the weight of the water-filled hair causing your roots to stick to your help, either try micro-plopping as above, or only plop for a short time.
What if plopping removes my styling products?
You might find that along with water removal, your plop removes excess product too – which can be a good thing if you’ve been heavy-handed but may in turn remove too much. If this happens (you can tell by seeing how much has come off on the towel or t-shirt”>, apply another layer of your last product on your plopped curls by gently glazing over or scrunching in.
So, what are you waiting for? Get plopping!
Photo by Madrona Rose on Unsplash
This hair washing regime is popping up all over the place at the moment. Read on to find out why people are switching around their product order and what benefits it can have for your hair.
What is reverse washing?
Reverse washing is simpler than it sounds. You basically switch up your shampoo and conditioner order when washing. So, for example, if you use a deep conditioner, apply this first, then use a shampoo or low-poo to remove it. If you only use conditioner, then apply this first and then wash out.
Why do curlies reverse wash?
Sometimes, your curls need the benefit of a deep conditioner, but it can leave your hair limp and flat. As the trend for voluminous, light curls is growing, people want to avoid that flat, limp look. Switching up your conditioning regime can do the trick.
Conditioner can be lipophilic, which means it coats the hair strands and also the scalp if you apply it too closely. Simply rinsing conditioner off is sometimes not enough to remove the coating. You want to be able to allow your hair to benefit from the hydration and nutrition of the conditioner but not leave any heavy residue or build-up. Reversing the order of your products can allow curls to absorb the goodness but return to their light bounciness afterwards.
How to reverse wash curls
1. Rinse with warm water
Firstly, make sure you’ve thoroughly rinsed your hair with warm water. As well as allowing the hair cuticles to open and thus absorb more conditioner, it will also encourage any water-soluble products already on your hair to be rinsed off, allowing the conditioner better access to the hair shaft.
2. Massage the scalp
Secondly, we recommend gently massaging the scalp to loosen any build-up and skin particles and rinse again.
3. Condition
Next apply your deep conditioner/ conditioner from the root and comb or rake through with your fingers to the ends of the hair. Allow the conditioner to be absorbed for at least five minutes. Don’t forget, you won’t have washed off any stubborn hair products using shampoo first so the conditioner may need to work harder to be absorbed into the hair shaft.
4. Shampoo
Finally, use a gentle shampoo or low-poo to massage and wash out the conditioner, paying particular attention to the scalp if you are trying to achieve a voluminous lift at the root. We recommend applying shampoo with a scalp massager as this can be gentler than your fingers and nails. Only massage shampoo into the scalp area and allow it to run down the lengths of the hair to rinse out the conditioner. Never rub the shampoo into the lengths as this can cause damage and frizz. Seeing as you won’t be applying conditioner after this stage to combat this, you want to be really careful at this stage.
Can you use a co-wash?
Co-washing may not be enough to remove the conditioner and may even just add to the conditioning of the hair. If you are aiming for lighter, fuller hair, then adding a co-wash on top of a deep conditioner is probably not going to work!
Who can benefit from reverse washing?
This regime is perfect for people with fine, oily, or thinning hair which gets easily weighed down. It can also benefit people with very long hair which may already be pulled down by the weight. This routine will also help people who suffer from build-up on their scalp and flakiness or psoriasis. Ensuring products are properly washed off will allow the scalp to breathe, thus allowing healthy hair to flourish.
What are the benefits?
The first obvious pro is that by preventing your curls form being weighed down, you could achieve more voluminous curls, bouncy curls. In the days following up washday, when curls naturally acquire more moisture, dirt and oils from the scalp, hair products and the world around us, this could prevent it from becoming even more limp or greasy. Secondly, not only will you be allowing your scalp to breathe, but also the skin along your jawline and back. Left over conditioner can cause acne in these areas. Limiting the amount of product on your hair could ease this if it’s something you suffer with.
Are there any cons to reverse washing?
People with coarser or drier hair may not see the same benefits with this method as you probably need to leave some conditioner on your hair to help smooth the cuticles after washing. Shampoos are formulated with a higher pH balance which raises the cuticle, and the conditioner usually balances the pH.
In order to avoid leaving your cuticle in a raised state you could try deep conditioning first, then follow up with a shampoo and finally apply a lighter conditioner to finish off. In other words, more of a mid-reverse wash. You can learn more about the pH levels of shampoos and conditioners and how they affect your reverse washing routine here.
Other people this may not work for are those who like to properly clarify their hair with a sulfate shampoo or by using other strong cleansing agents. You may find that you need the benefit of conditioning after the shampoo to rehydrate the hair. We suggest trying it out, once every couple of washes to see what works best for you.
You may not have known this term, but have you tried washing your hair in this order?
This mythical treatment came top in Best Treatment category in the Best of the Best 2021 Awards and it is number one for good reason. I used Olaplex for three months; read on to find out how it worked for my curly hair.
What is it Olaplex?
Olaplex has legendary status amongst the hair community. OLAPLEX is one of the world’s largest independent hair care brands that grew from a grassroots beginning. The brand claims to have paved the way for a new category of haircare called “bond-building.” Olaplex offers a range of products from No.0 through to No.8. Olaplex No.3 is a bonding treatment that can be used at home for salon results.
What Olaplex No. 3 promises
Olaplex No. 3 repairs damaged disulfide bonds in the hair – which give hair structure, strength and stability – at a molecular level from the inside out with Olaplex’s patented single ingredient, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate.
Once all the bonds are repaired, you are promised healthy, smooth, shiny hair.
No. 3 works on all types of hair, but curly hair is more prone to damage from heat, brushing and other external factors; therefore, Olaplex has become a buzzword in curly circles.
My hair before using Olaplex
How Olaplex No. 3 works on my curly hair
My hair type
I have type 2c/3a low porosity, low density curls and I’ve been following a modified curly hair method for a while which includes no sulfates or silicones, so my hair is in relatively good condition. However, it does get dry easily, particularly on the top layers of hair. I also diffuse on a low heat most wash days and occasionally use a temporary colour on my hair (silicone-free”> and my curls need extra attention after I do this.
How I use Olaplex
I currently use Olaplex every three washes or if my hair feels particularly brittle. You can use it more often, but the bottle is quite small, so it doesn’t last long. I clarify my hair first to remove any product build-up so that the Olaplex can access the hair cuticle more easily. Then I apply Olaplex liberally, brushing through with a wet-brush, wrap my hair in a microfibre towel and leave it on for at least half an hour (Olaplex recommend leaving it on for 30-45 mins for maximum efficacy”>. I then rinse, condition and styled as normal. On occasion, if I’m rushing but my hair needs that extra something, I will just leave it on for ten minutes or so in the shower while I get on with other business and then rinse out. It still manages to have some impact.
How it works on my hair
My initial reaction was definitely wow! From the very first wash, there was a noticeable difference in my curls. They felt more solid and less flyaway. The effects felt different to a deep conditioning treatment which makes the hair feel silky and soft. This had the effect of giving the hair more structure and body.
My hair directly after I used Olaplex
The fragrance
The smell is gentle and pleasant, and the treatment gives the hair slip so wet-brushes can run through curls easily.
Would I recommend Olaplex?
I recommend using Olaplex No. 3 after any instances of coloring, use of heat or simply a long period without washing and conditioning to restore the damaged bonds in your hair.
Final thoughts
The only question I have over this product is that, when I went to my curly hair specialist hairdresser, she said she was struggling to get my hair squeaky clean; she felt like there was something coating the hair. As I don’t use silicones or waxes and regularly clarify to remove product build-up, the only thing I could think of was that the Olaplex may have caused some build-up on the hair.
Overall, this product blew me away and I would definitely recommend it, especially for people with damaged and/or curly hair.
Read more: The Pros (and Cons”> of Olaplex, According to a Stylist
PHOTO: UNSPLASH
The well-known Pyramid Head has always haunted many curlies: that triangular shape with a flat crown area widening out to a wide bushy shape at the ends (think Hermione Granger circa 2001″>.
What Causes Pyramid Head?
The pyramid shape is usually caused when “the hair is one length with no angles around the face, so the curls stack on top of each other, creating a pyramid,” says Christo, global artistic director of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue salon. The weight of the textured hair causes the roots to sit flat to your head and the bottom is bulked out as it’s all one length. You’ll be pleased to know however, that this triangular outcome can be avoided.
How to Avoid Pyramid Hair
1. Get layers!
A lot of curlies are scared of layers because of snip-happy hairdressers in their past, but layers can be the best thing for lifting your curls. Christo recommends adding “long, diagonal layers that frame the face, so the curls sit into each other”.
According to Shari Harbinger of the Devachan salon, “layering the hair on the surface will release some of the weight of the hair, giving you more volume on the crown area.”
2. Try a dry cut
Harbinger says that “cutting the hair dry — with minimal or no tension — and a layering and sculpting of the curls will give you the volume you want on the surface of the hair and more length on the bottom, resulting in a more north-south effect instead of east-west.”
PHOTO: UNSPLASH
3. The length of layers is important
When you’re next consulting with your stylist, ask them to incorporate the shortest layers your hair can cope with. The goal is to decrease bulk in the middle and ends of the hair. Shorter layers as well as chipping into your curls will allow curls to spring up, reducing the pyramid effect.
4. Avoid thinning shears
Additionally, request that your stylist does not use thinning shears on your curls. Thinning shears will remove bulk but they also compromise the structure of your curls.
5. Talk to your stylist
What’s really important is to talk to your stylist. Different people need different layers. You don’t want too many layers cut in if your hair is lower density for example because you will be left with thin, straggly ends.
How to Combat Pyramid Hair While Styling
Beyond the salon there are a few things you can try to avoid the triangular shape.
1. Root Clipping
Firstly, try root clipping! Harbinger recommends using clips at the roots to create lift, “keeping the hair from weighing down on itself.” When wet, take a curly family in between your fingers and place the clip as close to the root as possible. Apply all over the crown area and leave until 90% dry. When you remove clips, do so carefully so as not to disturb the curl.
2. Diffuse Upside Down
Secondly, diffuse hair upside down. This will lift the roots away from the scalp, helping to avoid a flat crown.
At the end of the day, the pyramid shape can look amazing, adding volume and glamour to your curls. It’s all about finding out what works for you!
This article was originally published in 2008 and has been rewritten for clarity.
Pictured: @laura_marie_smith
If you are looking for a way to combat frizz, then the Laura Method is for you! The Laura Method is all about moisture, moisture, moisture and product, product, product! It was created by Laura Smith (@laura_marie_smith on Instagram and Laura Marie Smith on Facebook”> to tackle frizz and has undergone a few adjustments since her first tutorial back in 2016. It incorporates many elements of the Curly Girl Method and Laura uses products without silicones and alcohols. Take care with the products you choose – because you are using a lot of product, you might want to make sure the product itself is not too heavy.
Pictured: @laura_marie_smith‘s 6-year curly hair transformation
How to do the Laura Method
1. Co-wash
Co-wash and apply a curl-approved conditioner to your curls. Rinse out.
2. Apply leave-in conditioner (as you would a gel”>
After rinsing, douse soaking wet hair with about 2-4 generous handfuls of leave-in conditioner – a good rule of thumb is to use as much as you need to cover all of your hair. Coat hair in conditioner the way you would apply a gel, with the praying hands technique. Then rake through with your finegrs and shake to reclump. The original Laura routine uses an upside-down approach but Laura’s updated routine advises upright-styling, dividing hair into sections and applying product to each of those sections. Hair should be completely coated, and you want that sea-weed feel.
3. Scrunch upside down
Scrunch upside down, but not too much so as not to remove too much of the conditioner. You should hear the squish! You might need a towel underneath to catch any dripping water.
4. Micro-plop with a t-shirt
In the original method, Laura plops with a t-shirt for half an hour but in her updated version, she micro-plops with a t-shirt or micro-fibre towel to remove excess water.
5. Apply styling gel or custard with praying hands technique
Next, apply a generous amount of styling gel or custard with the praying hands technique to upside down hair. Laura uses about four handfuls of gel. Then scrunch upside down again making sure you reach all sides of your hair – including the back!
Switch to an upright position and then glide your hands over the head with some more gel to smooth any frizz or flyaway curls.
6. Diffuse upside down
Diffuse your curls upside down on a low speed and heat without touching your curls at all – just move the diffuser around your head section by section.
BEFORE & AFTER SCRUNCHING OUT THE CRUNCH
7. Scrunch out the crunch
Finally, scrunch out the crunch. This means scrunching out your curls to remove the gel cast that has formed.
You can watch Laura going through her most recent version of the routine, including the amount of styling product and technique she uses to apply it, in her video below.
And we’ll include the original Laura Routine video as well as an update for you to watch in more detail below.
If you want frizz-free, super-defined hair, then this method is definitely for you! And if you want to prolong your washday, wear your curls in a buff or a silk scarf at night to protect it from frizz.
Have you tried the Laura Method? Share your results in the comments!
Who is Scott Musgrave?
Scott Musgrave is widely touted as the “East Coast Curly Hair Specialist” and is responsible for a range of innovations for caring for curly hair including the CURLYS Method, the MagiCurl Application Process (MAP”> and the Curly Hair Artistry group. Curly Hair Artistry is owned and operated by Scott as an Advanced Education Company providing live training, courses and mentoring in how to work with all types of curly hair. Scott shared with us the incentive behind the MAP method and why it works.
The gap in wavy hair education
Scott explains that he noticed that there was a big gap in the curly hair niche industry when it came to helping those with loose wavy hair. A few years back, online advice for people with this kind of texture was hard to find and, in the salon, they were treated like they had straight hair.
“When they searched for help online,” he says, “they found an abundance of videos and blogs sharing about tighter curls and products that did not apply to them. Many of these people reached out to me asking for help, so I created tips, techniques and methods to serve them. However, while my online course called Cultivate Your Curls is mainly for loose wavy to curly hair, I have many clients with tight curls doing The MAP Method with great success.”
What inspired Cultivate Your Curls & The MAP Method?
“The inspiration for developing The MAP Method was based on my clients trying other methods and tutorials on YouTube/Instagram and being frustrated with the results. They were having continual issues with dryness, frizz or the hair not feeling nice and soft. I would explain to them that each person’s hair is unique and there are a few different things going on one head of hair – from different wavy and curly formations, textures and densities. You must learn to use your intuition – what I call your Inner Curl Mentor (ICM”> to guide you as to what you need. Once you understand and practice this principle, you will know how to manage your hair for the rest of your life. In my Cultivate Your Curls course, I explain how to awaken your ICM with the MAP method; with practice of thirty days or so you will have a customized way of working with your hair.”
How to Cultivate Your Curls
Scott explains that in order to start to Cultivate Your Curls, you need to begin with clean, detoxed hair. He says that learning to detox can solve some issues when it’s hard to determine what is not working for you. You may need to detox from ingredients in your products or hard water build-up among other factors.
“There are a lot of options for detoxing now compared to when I first taught this and a lot of conflicting information; I wanted to keep how and when to detox simple and clear,” Scott explains.
From the detox stage, you move on to other steps including proper cleansing of the scalp and hair, and how to apply your styling products. This process is unique for each person, which is why Scott stresses that you practise for thirty days.
“You need to find out what works and what frustrates you and to share that with me or our Facebook community,” Scott emphasises, “I really stress the importance of not just sharing great results but to also share what is not working for you. The MAP Method will help you to get past the frustration and find a solution. This is so liberating as you don’t need to go to another YouTube video or Instagram post or buy another product – you just need to learn to use what you have and find out what is not working so that you can have confidence to know what to buy next time. This has helped many in our community to save a lot of money from knowing what to buy instead of guessing what to buy.”
The MAP Method vs. The Curly Girl Method?
Scott is keen to stress that the MAP method is not better than other methods out there that may already be working for many people.
“I wanted to create something that works with The Curly Girl Method,” he says, “and other methods as well. I have a lot of respect for the CGM and what was not helping those with CGM inspired me to come up with The MAP Method and fill in the gaps.”
He is adamant that if you have a great routine with CGM then you do not need Cultivate Your Curls – but if you are having frustrations then CYC can help.
CYC “brings a sense of freedom to be who you are born to be instead of feeling like you need to be ‘fixed’ or that there is something wrong with you. A major benefit of Cultivate Your Curls is confidence and a sense of dignity”.
“Cultivate Your Curls is not better than other methods, it is just different. I have many clients not aware of any other methods and they come into CYC with an open mind. They therefore learn from the start about how to manage their hair and have great success, so no other knowledge is necessary as CYC has everything you need for beautiful hair.”
Scott explains that the main benefits of working with CYC is that your hair gets better over time and if you have an issue with something not working for you, you are equipped with the confidence to know what to do about it. In addition, he’s found that most participants in CYC save more money in the long run because once they know what works for their hair, they move on from the obsession of spending time and money on finding the next new product. This can free up time for other areas of life which, according to Scott, “brings a sense of freedom to be who you are born to be instead of feeling like you need to be ‘fixed’ or that there is something wrong with you. A major benefit of Cultivate Your Curls is confidence and a sense of dignity”.
For more information on Cultivate Your Curls – check out Curly Hair Artistry.
Photo by Cortney White on Unsplash
K18 been hailed as the ‘new Olaplex’. But does it really live up to the Queen of hair repair products or is it all hype? Can anything really be better than Olaplex for repairing damaged tresses? Read on to find out.
How does hair damage occur in the first place?
Here’s the sciencey bit! To start with, we need to know how hair damage occurs to understand how both products work. The hair is made up of polypeptide chains (chains of amino acids”> and bonds that link these protein chains together.
There are 3 types of bonds that link protein chains together in our hair:
- disulphide bonds
- hydrogen bonds
- salt bonds
Disulphide bonds are strong, while hydrogen and salt bonds are both weaker. It is necessary to break the dispulphide bond in order to change our hair’s appearance. In addition, when hair undergoes chemical processing, the polypeptide chains break, which means the hair’s core structure—the one that gives it resiliency and strength—is also broken.
What is Olaplex and how does it work?
OLAPLEX was revolutionary when it first exploded onto the haircare scene in 2014. “It is a stylists’ and colorists’ dream” claims Roberto, Stylist at Live True London Hair Salon. It even has a celebrity fan base including megastars such as Chrissy Teigen and Kim Kardashian. Olaplex offers a range of products promised to restore damaged hair by repairing broken bonds with their patented ingredient, Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate.
According to Olapex, this ingredient “dramatically improves the hair strength, protects from within, and provides immediate results for all hair types.” Olaplex works by repairing the bonds in the hair shaft. In other words, it patches over damage almost like a glue. Its spectacular results are the reason why these products have reached cult status. “Olaplex isn’t just a trend. It is a miracle product that has dramatically changed the way we do color” says Paco, Designer Colorist at Live True London.
What is K18 and how does it work?
K18 is the new kid on the block that seems set to knock the impressive Olaplex off its golden pedestal – or at least share it. K18, named after its key ingredient K18Peptide, containing a unique sequence which can bring damaged hair back to its original state — is able to reconnect the polypeptide chains that make up the inner structure of hair. K18’s bioactive peptide mimics the natural structure of keratin building blocks (amino acid sequences”> in the hair. K18Peptide is also able to repair any damaged disulfide bonds – like Olaplex does – in the process.
What’s even more incredible about K18 is that it can repair hair damage in as little as four minutes. Christine Thompson, Director of Color at Spoke and Weal says, “The most amazing thing to me was how little time it took.”
Last but not least, the result will not wash away because the damage has actually been reversed rather than ‘glued’ over.
The results are so impressive that celebrity colorist Jack Martin claims:
“In my 30 years of using hair products, I have never come across a product as amazing as K18.”
A recurring theme in hair stylists’ testimonials on K18 is that the product seemed too good to be true – until they tried it. Roy Sng, Educator and Creative Director at Mode Studio says, “I did not believe in this product at first but after trying it out, it’s like wow! It’s a total game changer for the hair industry.” Carl Keely at Chumba Concept Salon agrees: “It’s a bit gobsmacking really. I didn’t believe it when I first saw it and the clients feels the same.”
So, what are the key differences between the two?
Both products appear to affect and repair hair at a deeper level than other treatments or conditioners. The discernible difference between the two is that. Repairing the bonds using Olpalex has more of a structural, surface level impact whereas repairing the polypeptide chains using K18 works on the inner core of the hair.
When to use K18
Because K18 is key to repairing hair, it’s excellent to use before coloring hair, but can be used on virgin hair too to repair everyday wear and tear.
When to use Olaplex
Olaplex is perfect for temporary rejuvenation of the hair after styling, heat or chemical damage.
For speed, K18 wins out because of its super quick impact on the hair but Olaplex has a variety of products to choose from.
Both products clearly have a huge following, so it seems the best way to work out which to use is try them out for yourself depending on your hair’s needs!
PHOTO: @ricciperfavore WITH THE BEHAIRFUL BRUSH
“Don’t brush curly hair!” We’ve all got used to that mantra over the years, haven’t we? But actually, more and more curlies are getting fabulously defined clumps from using a brush to style their hair.
From ribbon curls to shaking, there are plenty of ways to make a brush work for you. Remember, curly hair is fragile when wet, so always use these techniques gently!
Brush Styling Techniques and How to Do Them
1. Brush and Shake
By far the easiest technique, this is the best way to create natural clumps and looser waves. It works best with upside down styling and can be done on wet or damp hair – although very wet hair will give the most definition.
Method:
Tip hair forward and gently brush through upside down without scrunching. Once all of the hair has been brushed, gently shake your head until the clumps fuse together. They should come together naturally. If clumps don’t form, try adding more water. Scrunch clumps carefully, to avoid separating them. You can then either diffuse upside down, or flip hair back up and leave to dry naturally.
2. Ribbon Styling
This method will probably create the most defined curls. The best way to describe this is to think of curling the ribbon on a gift. You need to create pressure on the hair along the edge of your brush with your hand.
Method
This can be done upside down or right side up and is best done on wet or very wet hair. Choose a clump of hair; the size you pick will determine the size of the final clump. Firstly, brush through the clump so it is completely smooth. Next, place the brush as close to the root as possible and brush out and away from the scalp. Pinch the top of the clump gently and shake until the clump forms. For extra definition and smoothness, place pressure on the hair over the uppermost edge of the brush as you brush through, and you will see the hair curl in on itself. This will also give a tighter spiral like those pretty gift ribbons!
3. Handle styling
For perfect ringlets and smooth barrel curls, try using the handle of the brush as well. This method takes a little practise but once you’ve got the hand of it, your curls will be popping!
Method
This can be done upside down or right side up and is best done on wet or very wet hair. The size of clump you pick will determine the size of the final clump. Firstly, brush through the clump so it is completely smooth. Hold the brush upside down so the handle is pointing upwards. Then, holding both ends of the brush, place the brush close to the root of the clump and brush out and away from the scalp, twisting and pulling it down gently as you go. Eventually, the curl will spiral through the teeth of the brush and around the handle until the brush pops out of the bottom of the curl. You will be left with a perfectly formed ringlet! Scrunch it gently to avoid disturbing it.
Common brush styling issues and questions
How do you avoid tangles?
Some curlies find it difficult to avoid their curls tangling up with each other, particularly with the Handle or Ribbon Styling. Try using clamps or pins to section off your hair before you begin. You could also brush through your hair completely before styling to avoid tangles.
How do you deal with flat roots?
When brush styling right side up, some curlies – particularly types 3a or below – find that their roots become flattened to the hair with the pulling action of the brush. This is particularly a problem with Handle Styling as you tend to pull the curls down the brush. Try practising the techniques upside down so the roots are pulled away from the scalp. Another tip is to section your clumps using root clips which will keep the hair lifted off your scalp while you style.
Brush styling recommendations
Denman D3
By far the most common brush used for brush styling is the Denman D3 because of its versatility and its relatively wide-spaced rows. You can make the gaps wider by removing rows as well. It’s particularly excellent for coily, thicker hair.
Behairful Brush
For more tension, many curlies are now trying out brushes with more bristles such as the Behairful Brush, which can create gorgeous, glossy ribbon curls.
Scrunch It Brush
The new Scrunch It Brush, with its round smooth barrel and handle, is excellent for rounded ringlets. You can also create smooth curls simply with any detangling wet brush. Why not experiment and see which you like best!
Watch a few of these techniques in action:
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Happy brushing!
Pregnancy comes with a whole host of changes and not just to a woman’s body. Many women are also lucky to experience thicker, more lustrous hair due to a rise in estrogen and progesterone levels and a rise in blood volume. However, what goes up, must come down, and once these hormones level out following childbirth, this extra hair tends to fall out or ‘shed’ which can be upsetting and stressful for already-exhausted new moms. The good news is, in most cases, postpartum hair loss is completely normal, and it doesn’t last forever. We talked to four curly women about their experiences of postpartum hair loss and how they dealt with it.
April Lucia
“I was shocked when I was able to see through my hair almost to my crown. It was a year after my second child and I didn’t even realize that it was related to my postpartum transition. However, recovery after this pregnancy at the age of 38 took much longer than my first pregnancy four years earlier. My hair felt heavy and hurt. I couldn’t wear ponytails or buns because they would pull on my hair follicles. I cried when I tried a French braid and saw so much of my scalp showing on both sides.
“To promote new growth, I did soft scalp massages at night, took biotin vitamins and added collagen to my diet from bone broth and supplements. Additionally, I loaded up on veggies to promote healthy hormone balance and thus healthy hair growth as well.
“Hairstyle remedy? I cut my hair shorter to alleviate the weight and the heavy, pulling feeling. I loosely pinned back my bangs to conceal the balding spots for what looked like a loose half-up hairstyle. It felt like the longest journey to see the new hair growth come through. Thankfully however, I can now appreciate how the hair loss experience helped me to focus on my internal health at a time when I was a busy mom and could have so easily put my needs aside.”
Sian, pre-pregnancy
Sian Biddle
“When I first experienced postpartum hair loss, I freaked out to begin with, thinking that there seemed to be so much coming out. I had long hair and I thought it made it look really awful! But I reassured myself with the knowledge that I hadn’t shed any hair during pregnancy, and now it was just extra hair I was shedding.
Sian, post-partum
“To combat this, I made sure that I was gentle when washing and styling and also getting a balanced diet, to help keep my hair healthy. I had been eating a lot of dark green veggies like spinach and broccoli during pregnancy because I had low iron, so I continued with that afterward. In addition, I made sure I was getting vitamin C as well through fruit smoothies. I also gave myself a six-month window of grace. I decided that, if my shedding continued beyond that time, I would make an appointment with the doctor.
Sian now
Sian now
“Fortunately, it tailed off and I was fine. My top bit of advice? Don’t freak out! Take care of your health and your hair should right itself.”
Lydia During pregnancy, June 2020
Lydia Simons
“In July 2020 I noticed my hair getting thicker and I was amazed at how the volume seemed to increase every wash day. At first, I thought I was just doing something slightly different in my hair washing routine; when I got the positive pregnancy test – I was overjoyed! However, just two weeks after the positive test (when I was eight weeks pregnant”>, I miscarried. I have never felt such grief. I just felt empty. I had never met my baby in any way, never had a scan, never felt it move, my husband and I hadn’t even started thinking about a nursery but I just felt so lost and alone. And then, about two months later, a massive chunk of hair came out from the top of my head and around my temples when I was washing it.
Lydia Post-Miscarriage, September 2020
“I didn’t really think much of it initially; I don’t brush my hair much between washes so I always expect a fair amount of hair-fall. However, when the same thing happened the following wash, I started to get worried. I did lots of research and eventually discovered that you can have postpartum hair loss even after miscarriage as your hormone levels return to normal. My hair is very fine and low density already, so this was another blow! I didn’t really know how to deal with it. It really knocked my confidence. Nobody said a thing, and I doubt people would have noticed it, but I knew it and hated it.
Lydia now
Lydia now
“I read a lot about using oils and treatments to help encourage regrowth, but my mental state at the time didn’t give me the capacity to do that kind of selfcare. I just needed to get through each day and make it home to cry. Because of that, I don’t exactly know when my hair began to feel more normal again. About six months after the initial hair loss, I had a hair cut and realised that my hair was back to full strength. I am also beginning to feel more like myself again, and it’s wonderful to be able to share my thoughts and hair care journey with my friends once more.”
Helene during pregnancy
Helene Parmentiere
“As a fine-haired and low-density curly girl, thickness has always been out of reach for me, especially as I’ve been unscrupulously jeopardising my delicate hair with savage bleaching for more than 15 years. However, and against all odds, despite the highlights and lack of knowledge regarding curly hair care, my hair thrived during my pregnancies. As a matter of fact, before I started taking proper care of my curls, my best hair days happened during my two pregnancies, all without changing anything in my ‘routine!’ My hair stopped breaking and shedding, it looked healthy, full and thicker than ever. Of course, my hair was still damaged by the bleach and my pattern was much looser than it is now, because I had no idea how to deal with my curls, but it still looked better than before.
Helene during pregnancy
“Unfortunately, this beautiful story ended when I stopped breastfeeding. The shedding was even worse than before; my hair was thinning like crazy and you could see when holding what used to be a clump that I had about two inches of normal thickness and then the rest of the ‘length’ was three dying strands. I was mortified and the only way out was to cut my hair as short as possible to help with the regrowth. So that’s what I did.
Helene postpartum
Helene in 2018, one year after she stopped breastfeeding
“After my second child, my hair was so short and straw-like that I was afraid I might lose it all. This is when I started doing a lot of research about curly hair care. The fear of going bald made me determined to find a way to make my hair as healthy as possible. It took me more than another year to make the decision to stop bleaching. I had another big cut and I finally entered the whole curly adventure of following a curly hair routine around June 2020. I just wish I hadn’t waited to have post-partum hair loss before taking the plunge.”
Helene now
Helene now
What was your experience with postpartum hair changes? Share your advice in the comments below.
PHOTO BY ISTOCKPHOTO
We all know the importance of protein for our hair – after all, hair is made of it! Protein determines the structure and health of our hair. But how much do we need? And what do we do if we experience an overload or a build-up? Finding the right balance of protein and moisture can confuse people new (or not so new!”> to a natural curly hair regime. Below are a few tips to help you navigate the minefield.
Signs You Have Protein Build-up
Protein build-up can occur if you use too many products containing protein or products containing too much protein. The following could be signs that you are experiencing a build-up of proteins in your hair:
- Your hair might be dry and brittle. This can make it more difficult to style.
- Your hair may become stiff, crunchy or straw-like.
- Your hair may lose elasticity and snap instead of stretching. You can do a strand test by taking the end of a strand in each hand and pulling on the strand in both directions. Your hair should stretch, but not break.
- Your curls may be lifeless and dull and might not hold a style well. It may also lack shine.
- Your hair could break and tangle too easily. It may take a long time to detangle.
- Hair shedding could be higher than usual due to breakage brought on by the protein build-up.
How to Remove Protein or Fix Protein Build-up
If you do suffer the unfortunate fate of a protein overload, the best thing to do is to balance it with moisture and temporarily cut out protein from your routine. Here are the steps to take.
Step 1. Eliminate proteins
Check the ingredients of your products carefully – all products: Shampoos, low-poos, conditioners, deep conditioners, creams, gels and sprays. We all know ingredient labels are not the simplest to read, so here is a list of names to look for.
Commonly used proteins in hair products are:
- Hydrolyzed (wheat, oat, soy”> protein
- Hydrolyzed vegetable Protein
- Hydrolyzed keratin
- Hydrolyzed collagen
- Amino acids (silk, milk, wheat, etc.”>
- Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol (derivative of keratin protein”>
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol (silicone modified wheat protein”>
- Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (quaternized wheat protein”>
Once you have identified which of your products contain these ingredients (especially products with proteins higher up on the ingredient list”> set them aside and hold off on using them for now.
Step 2. Pre-Poo
To begin the process of fixing the build-up, pre-poo with oil to protect your hair from shampoo. Saturate the lengths of your hair with the oil and allow it to sit on your hair in a shower or heat cap for a while before you shampoo. You can use the oil to help you to detangle your hair with your fingers or a brush.
Step 3. Shampoo
Too much protein coats the hair, thus preventing water from entering the hair shaft, so you will need to clarify your hair to remove the protein build-up; use a shampoo with sulfates, sulfonates or other clarifying agents and without protein in the ingredients.
Step 4. Deep Condition
You will then need to deep condition again with a protein-free conditioner. Try using a heat cap to help the conditioner soak into your hair.
Step 5. Moisturize
Next, use leave-in conditioners and stylers (creams and/or gels”> without protein and containing hydrating ingredients like aloe, honey, glycerin or moisturizing ingredients like shea butter or avocado oil. If you apply your stylers in sections, you can achieve thorough coverage throughout your hair.
After the treatment: After your initial clarifying wash, you may wish to use gentle cleansers or co-wash for a while to avoid stripping the hair of further moisture.
If you have a lot of protein build up, it might be a few weeks before your hair returns to normal.
Step 6. Re-introduce protein
Once your hair is in a happier state, you can start introducing protein to your routine slowly. Try incorporating one styling product that contains protein and ensure your other products are protein-free.
Also check where in the ingredients list the protein is; the higher up in the list, the more protein there is likely to be in that product. You could also go for products containing amino acids which are smaller proteins and therefore may not cause as much build-up.
It’s worthwhile getting into the practice of refreshing your hair with water mid-week, or maybe even nightly in extreme cases, to keep that moisture level up! You can wear your hair in a protective style while your hair is recovering, to avoid breakage.
How to Achieve Moisture/Protein Balance
Striking a balance between protein and moisture is essential for healthy, happy curls. But how do we do this? It sounds difficult right? It doesn’t need to be. All you have to do is to get to know your hair and be mindful of your ingredients.
To begin with, figure out your hair’s porosity to find which moisturizing products work well for you; for example, butters and heavier oils may work well for high porosity hair. Work out which humectants work well for you; humectants, such as aloe, honey or glycerin, draw moisture from the air and into your hair. Then you need to incorporate protein into your routine slowly one product at a time; for example, you might use protein-free cleansers and conditioners and include a leave-in conditioner or cream containing protein. Alternatively, if you know you are slightly protein sensitive, you could make your final styler one that contains protein so that the hair is coated and protected by other layers of stylers; for instance, if you use a cream/mousse/gel method, you could ensure the gel contains protein.
Once you’ve achieved that protein/moisture balance maintain it with these following tips:
- Follow up protein treatments with a deep conditioning treatment or a moisturizing leave-in.
- Look for products that contain both protein and moisturizing ingredients to simplify the process once you have achieved that balance.
- Always check ingredients in new products to make sure that you are not causing an imbalance in your routine with either protein or moisturizing ingredients.
Hopefully, with these steps you can restore your protein-overloaded locks to their former glory!
Pictured: Olivia Rose shingling her hair
What is shingling?
Shingling is a curl defining technique in which you apply the products to your hair in layers, starting from the bottom and working your way up, much like you would apply shingles to your roof. This method helps to smooth the cuticle to create ultimate definition which also means curls last longer.
It’s a tried and true technique in the curly girl method but it differs from the usual methods where product is smoothed over, raked through or scrunched in.
What hair type does shingling work best for?
Shingling works on any hair type, although it works best on hair that naturally clumps together into individual curls so finer hair may need more encouragement to help clumps to form. Shingling denser, Type 4c curls may require extra time but it’s worth the effort for springy, defined coils. Wavy hair can also be shingled to create smoother defined waves. Another reason we love this technique is it can be done on any length hair!
What do you need?
For shingling, you’ll need
- a leave-in conditioner
- curling cream or gel
- a hair oil (optional”>
- a detangling brush or you can use your fingers
- a spray bottle to maintain moisture
- a diffuser (if you are not air drying”>
- hair clips or pins for sectioning
Moisture is the name of the game with shingling so you should start with cleansed, deeply conditioned hair and choose a leave-in that ensures maximum slip and glides through your hair, for example Garnier Hair Food in Banana and Curls Blueberry Bliss Leave-in. Your gel or hair cream should also be strong enough to provide some hold to maintain the integrity of the curl once defined. You could try Giovanni LA Natural Styling Gel or Bounce Curl Avocado and Rose Oil Clump and Define Cream.
You can also add a hair oil, such as Righteous Roots RX, to your shingling routine which is particularly good for highly porous hair or denser 4A to 4C coils. Oils help to seal the hair cuticle to prevent moisture from escaping. This order of applying products is commonly known as the LCO Method.
How to shingle curly hair
Step 1: Start with clean, detangled hair
Start with freshly co-washed, deep-conditioned and detangled hair so that you are applying product to fresh hair for maximum moisture. Detangling is important to be able to apply the product smoothly through the hair. Try the Curl Keeper Flexy Brush for gentle detangling.
Step 2: Separate hair into sections
Separate wet or damp hair into sections using fingers or a brush and secure with a clip; how many sections depends on how dense your hair is, but each section should be about two inches. If you have Type 4 coils you may want to separate your hair into twists.
Step 3: Spray your hair to keep it damp
Add water with your spray bottle if your hair is beginning to dry out – remember, sealing in moisture is key! You don’t want to do this technique on partially dry hair.
Step 4: Apply leave-in
Apply leave-in conditioner through each section using fingers or a Wetbrush from root to tip. If your hair is in twists, untwist a section and apply leave-in to that section. Repeat
Step 5: Apply gel
Your hair should have separated into clumps by now; apply a blob of gel or curl cream to each individual clump from root to tip, twisting around your finger for maximum definition.
If clumps haven’t formed, choose a small section, depending on how big you want the curl to be, and apply your gel or cream.
Optional Step 6: Apply oil
If you are using an oil, apply this now by rubbing a few drops between your fingertips and smoothing over the clump.
Step 7: Air dry or diffuse
Finally allow your hair to dry naturally or diffuse for more shrinkage (depending on what you prefer”> but avoid touching your hair until fully dry to maintain the definition.
You can watch Jewelliana Palencia aka @JeweJeweBee use the shingling method on her hair here.
What to avoid
Don’t skip detangling
Detangling is really important for this process so you can smooth products through hair and along each individual clump without any lumps or tangles. You can detangle with your fingers or with a wet brush.
Don’t apply too much product
Another issue some curlies may have is applying too much product so choosing the right products for your hair is key. You don’t want products that you know are too heavy for your hair; you are aiming for slip not over-moisturising. An example might be products heavy in shea butter which may weigh down low-porosity or low-density hair.
Don’t apply too much oil
Similarly, less is more when it comes to oils. A heavier hair oil, such as coconut, to seal in the moisture on each clump is perfect for denser, high porosity curls but try out a lighter oil such as jojoba for low-porosity or low-density hair or leave out the oil completely if needed.
This may feel like a lot of information to absorb but once you’ve mastered this technique you’ll find that you can actually spend less time on your hair because of how long your results will last.
Once you’ve shingled your hair, expect your curls to last for days!
Back in the ‘80s, many curlies sported a crispy, crunchy-looking halo of rock-hard shiny curls achieved from their gel or mousse. Fear of this crunchy perm look is why many people have been scared off wearing their curls naturally since! However, this ‘cast’, as it’s been termed, is what can help to create smooth, glossy curl clumps, once you have removed it. This step in a curly girl’s repertoire is often the break-through moment – you know, that moment when you realise you’ve been doing it wrong all along!
So, how do you remove this crunchy cast? Well, that’s where the process of ‘scrunching out the crunch’ or SOTC comes in.
How to Achieve a Cast
A solid cast is achieved through applying styling products onto wet or damp hair. Different products can create different strength casts, but strong-hold gels and mousses are usually the best way to create a cast. Allowing the hair to dry fully (either through diffusing or air drying”> without touching it too much (tempting I know!”> allows the product to form a hard, crystalline surface around the hair. This encourages the cuticle to lie flat which in turn creates that smooth coveted shine. However, you don’t want to walk round with rock-hard curls looking like you’ve just jumped straight out of an ‘80s Bon Jovi MTV video! This is where the ‘scrunch’ comes in.
Pictured: @actuallyalicia.curls
How to Scrunch out the Crunch
Step 1: Ensure hair is completely dry
Test this by holding a clump between two fingers and squeezing gently, feeling for any dampness.
Step 2: Scrunch
Gently cup curl clumps in sections and scrunch your curls upwards. Some people do this quite vigorously to gain volume and lift the root, but you may wish to do this gently to begin with to see how much definition you can achieve.
Step 3: Crunch
Keep cupping and scrunching until all the ‘crunch’ has gone and your curls are soft and bouncy. Don’t forget the back! Some people flip their hair from side to side or upside down to ensure full coverage.
Different Ways to SOTC
You can simply do this with the cheapest option – your bare hands! However, some curlies like the added protection and luxury of scrunching with a silk scarf. Drape the scarf across your palms and scrunch in the same way as above.
Another option is to use a hair oil. Rub a couple of drops of oil between your palms before scrunching. The oil helps to break up the cast and adds extra shine.
Some people prefer to mix up their method of removing the crunch; for example, you could try ‘smoothing out the crunch’ which is where you gently smooth the curl downwards between two fingers, thus smoothing out the cast. This helps to reduce the chances of getting frizz which can happen with over-vigorous crunching! Or you could ‘clap out the crunch’ on more stubborn casts where you clap the lengths of your hair between flat palms.
You may want to incorporate a pick at the end to add extra volume to the roots. @actuallyalicia.curls, pictured above, said on her Instagram that “once your hair is fully dry use your hands and scrunch the hair until the hard ‘cast’ is gone and your curls feel soft again. To fluff I like to give my hair a shake from the roots, or pick it with a hair pick or comb. I also like to massage my scalp to add more root volume.”
What If I Don’t Achieve a Cast?
Don’t fret too much; you can still achieve beautifully smooth and glossy curls without one. Next time you wash, try applying different layers and combinations of products or try a strong-hold styler as your final layer. Once you get used to recognising whether you have a cast forming or not, you can try the #smasters technique which is where you apply another layer of gel/mousse when your hair is 80% dry. This can help a cast to form before you finish drying fully.
So, what are you waiting for? Let’s get scrunching!
This article has been updated.
IMAGE SOURCE: @ACTUALLYALICIA.CURLS, USING ECOSLAY (LISTED BELOW”>
Silicones are like little magicians, creating the illusion of silky, shiny hair; however, frustratingly, they can actually cause a reduction of gloss and shine over time. Silicone is not a natural ingredient; it’s a synthetic polymer that coats the hair, giving the initial appearance of shine, but causing build-up over time as they are difficult to remove. In addition, heat from styling tools or dryers can cause the silicones to bind to your hair. This means that other products such as deep conditioners, can’t work their magic on your hair as they can’t penetrate this synthetic barrier. This layer also prevents moisture from being absorbed as well, thus causing the hair to become more brittle and drier over time.
What are the benefits of going silicone-free?
It stands to reason therefore, that creating a regime without silicones should leave you with healthier, more moisturized hair. Your hair will be able to absorb vitamins, protein as well as moisture without the polymer barrier created by ‘cones. Another benefit is that you will no longer need to use harsh shampoos to remove silicone build-up. Think of it as reaping the benefits of a long-distance run over a short-distance sprint. You may get instant gratification from using ‘cones, but the effect of that will be over pretty quickly. Caring for your hair over the long-term without ‘cones will allow your hair to flourish.
Which silicones should be avoided?
Put simply, avoid using any non-water-soluble silicones i.e. any that are not easily removed. Check your ingredients list and look out for any that end with ‘cone’, ‘con’ ‘zane’ or ‘xane’. likelovedo.com recommends this list of ‘cones to avoid:
- Amodimethicone
- Aminopropyl triethoxysilane
- Behenoxy Dimethicone
- Bis-aminopropyl dimethicone
- Bis-isobutyl Peg/Ppg-20/35/Amodimethicone Copolymer
- Botanisil
- Cetearyl Methicone
- Cetyl Dimethicone
- Cyclomethicone
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Dimethicone
- Dimethiconol
- Dimethicon
- Disiloxane
- Di-Isostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate
- Hexamethyldisiloxane
- Microsil
- Silane
- Silicon
- Siloxane
- Siloxysilicate
- Silsesquioxane
- Silylate
- Stearyl Dimethicone
- Phenyl trimethicone
- Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate
- Trimethylsiloxysilicate
- Trimethylsilylamodimethicone
Water-soluble silicones usually begin with ‘peg’ and these can be washed out with co-wash alone. Because silicones create a barrier around the hair, these easily removable silicones can protect against damage like heat styling and sun damage.
You can learn more about water-soluble silicones and a list of ingredient names to look for here: Water Soluble Silicones 101.
How to give up silicones
It might seem scary to give up on products that you’ve turned to in the past for instant shine. Common challenges might be that your hair may well feel drier initially as it adjusts, and you may notice more flyaways and frizz; however, in the long term, as your hair loses its reliance on silicones and becomes healthier, absorbing regular moisture and other vitamins from your products, it will thank you for the change. Here are a few steps to help you to give up silicones:
Step 1: Remove Silicone Build-up
Initially, you will need to strip the silicone build-up from your hair using a clarifying shampoo. If you use one with sulfates, you will need to deep condition afterwards to replenish moisture.
Try an apple cider vinegar rinse to help remove the build-up; it also has the added bonus of imparting a beautiful shine on the hair because it softens and smooths the hair cuticle.
Step 2: Identify the Silicones in Your Current Regimen
Ensure all your products are silicone-free using the list above to check against the ingredients list. They are usually present in shampoo, conditioner and deep conditioner, but it’s worth checking all of your products just in case those sneaky ‘cones are present!
Step 3: Replace Them with Silicone-Free Alternatives
Once you’ve removed the silicones from your product lineup, you will need to replace those products in your routine. We’ll include a list of cone-free brand recommendations below as a starting point. Look for alternative ways to encourage the natural shine of your hair, for example. incorporate hair oils into your routine. Broccoli seed oil has been praised as a natural alternative to silicones; it contains an Omega-9 fatty acid that can create shine on your hair. Silicone-free hair serums are also a good way to incorporate shine and they can provide some protection against heat and chemical damage.
Cone-free Product Recommendations
The following are a few of the brands that offer silicone-free products or ranges of products:
- Tresemme Pro Collection Botanique Range
- Boucleme
- Flora & Curl
- Only Curls
- Ecoslay
- Garnier Ultimate Blends Hair Food Range
- Infinitii Oils offer silicone-free Shampoo and Conditioner as well as hair oil
- Umberto Giannini Banana Butter Range
- Alaffia Beautiful Curls
Going silicone-free can be an instrumental step in discovering your curls in their natural state, but it is not the only way to be curly. Some curlies find that going mostly-silicone-free and using silicones in specific scenarios, like for heat protection, works best for them. It’s all about finding the regimen that meets your personal needs!
Read next: Top 20 Silicone-Free Daily Conditioners
This article was originally published in 2014 and was updated in 2021.
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