Search Results: Janelle Sands
Slowly but surely women of all ages, including women over the age of 50, are embracing the the movement. We tend to think they should be more experienced than others with wearing natural hair, since most of them have worn their natural hair before. Perhaps this is the reason that the product companies tend to market heavily to the younger demographic. However, many women over 50 are the true rookies within this natural process and need just as much support.
You see, the journey to natural for women over 50 is different for women in their 40s and younger. These women, born in the 1960s, arrived when the hair straightening trends were at an all-time high.
A Brief History
- Hot combs, also known as “pressing combs,” are created by the French in 1845 and arrive in America in 1880. –Refinery29
- In the 1950s and prior, the press and curl was popular, developed by Madame CJ Walker. Relaxers were first introduced by the G.A Morgan Hair Refining Company in 1913. –eHow
- While most women wore relaxers and press and curls, the 1970s marks the onset of a small group activists, like Angela Davis and Pam Grier, who challenged the straight hair trend by embracing the controversial afro (style, not texture”>.
- The “natural” began to catch a little fire, until its rise was interrupted by the Jheri Curl, which was introduced in 1977.
- During the 80’s and the 90’s, West African traditional hairstyles began to resurface in the black community. Many people were getting braids with the traditional West African patterns. – The African American Registry
It was not until 2000 that you started to see the natural trends very slowly start to take shape. This demographic of women was well into their professional careers and many would not dare to attempt such a drastic change at the height of their career climb. So, they continued to wear their relaxers consistently. After decades and many iterations of natural hair trends, we arrive at the present day. Fifty year old women and older are currently facing the challenge of deciding whether to return to wearing one’s natural hair. For many the choice is not their own, as age can sometimes bring about drastic changes in hair type. For others the choice is theirs to make.
Regardless of how you have arrived at this crossroad, here are a few tips for women fifty and above, shared by women fifty and above.
Enjoy it and be patient
Enjoy it and be patient. You have had chemicals for years, so think in terms of years, not months. Have an idea of what style you want. I had no clue and I am just now figuring out what I want. You will need a lot of self-confidence. Know why you are doing it. I think older women do it because they feel called to it for some reason other than just style. Personally, I was thinning on top.You are wonderful natural visions of God. – Felicia Hopkins, less than 1 year natural
Know what to expect
Remember, natural does not mean low/no maintenance. You still must carefully care for your hair. – Dee Robinson, 2 years naturalBe bold
You made the decision to go natural, enhance it by getting a cut or trim. Add some color or highlights. Play up your eyes. Arch those eyebrows. Buy a bold lipstick to rock that natural look. Most of all, be confident in your decision. Have patience and peace. It will take some time and effort to figure out what works for you. – Lynthia Jackson, 2+ years naturalHow do you encourage your fellow 50+ naturals?
If you once enjoyed curly, bouncy ringlets, but have lately been finding that your crowning glory is beginning to, well, droop, you have reason to be concerned. Fortunately, there are some likely causes for your loss of curl, and we’re here to help bring ’em back. Whether you’ve had one too many run-ins with the flat iron or you’re scared of visiting the salon (and subjecting your hair to helpful curl-enhancing treatments”>, we’ve outlined a few ways you may be (accidentally”> losing your curl pattern along with suggested strategies for bringing it back.
Heat Damage
Heat can wreak havoc on your curls. Using heat on your hair temporarily breaks the weak hydrogen bonds in your hair making it moldable and easy to alter. This temporary breakdown allows the hair to mold itself into your desired shape — curly hair can temporarily be straightened by using a flat iron, or straight hair can temporarily be made curly by using a curling wand. Your hair is made up of a protein called keratin, and the heat allows the keratin chains to maneuver themselves and assume new positions, essentially breaking down the bonds and weakening the structure of the hair. The process of breaking down the bonds excessively or with severe heat can permanently damage the structure resulting in deformed curls or permanently straight pieces. Hair is its strongest when all bonds are intact.
Putting down the heat styling tools, or at least decreasing the amount that you use them, can significantly help in preventing heat damage. And, when you do heat style, be sure to use a heat protectant product.
Long Hair
Many of today’s hair trends include textured styles and braided updos that call for longer locks. Unfortunately, long hair tends to equate to heavier hair, which drags your curls down and gives the appearance of stretched curls. This does not happen to all hair types though. Finer hair textures carry less weight, while normal to thick strands have a greater chance of being affected. How can we get the volume we crave with the length we love? Well, since the way the hair’s cut will help determine how the hair behaves, the best way is to keep your hair cut in a layered shape. Layers are formed by holding sections of the hair at a specific elevation, and volume appears as a result of the hair standing rather than falling. Therefore, if you cut your hair at standing elevations, you’ll get volume while maintaining length.
Always be sure to explain and communicate your hair goals to your hairstylist; if you’d like to keep it long but don’t want too many layers, talk to your stylist about a cut that’ll help you keep the curl definition you love.
Chemical Damage
The strongest bonds within the keratin are the disulfide bridges. They are not easily broken down and can only be altered with chemical treatments. Unlike the temporary effects of heat styling, chemicals like hair coloring, relaxers, and cold wave or permanent waving techniques involve chemicals that break down and reform the bonds in the hair to make a permanent change. This is what you would call a chemical reaction. Chemist Corner explains that while “most of thechemical reactions in our (cosmetic chemistry”> industry occur at the raw material suppliers labs, there are some cosmetic products specifically designed to chemically react.” These chemical reactions cause the hair to swell giving access to its inner workings. They then use products to reform the bonds of the hair, and close the cuticle.
These results are permanent and cannot be reversed; as such, stylists are trained to coach clients that utilize these techniques to use special products to nurse the hair along the way to prevent further damage or stress on the hair. Products that neutralize — sulfate-free cleansers for example — and deep conditioners add moisture to the hair and strengthen it. While the only true antidote to chemical damage is a trim, there are ways to optimize your hair health with deep conditioners and natural oils. Look for products that mention “reconstructor” or “repair” and set up a regular treatment schedule.
Dryness Or Damaged Hair
Dryness can cause the hair to be frizzy, resulting in a lack of curl definition, while hair damage can cause the hair to look misshapen from a lack of structure. Styling hair that is dry or damaged takes extra time and can be frustrating. Taking a systematic approach, however, is necessary to correct dry or damaged hair — though figuring out the cause is the first step. If a lack of hair care is the problem, you can recover by using hair conditioning treatments at least once a week. For general dryness, use moisture masks and hydrating deep conditioners to feed the hair the moisture it craves. For damaged hair, look for Keratin-based treatments that promise to repair your damaged hair. When using a reparative mask, rinse it out and then chase it with a regular rinse-out conditioner to balance out the hair, since sometimes keratin or protein-based products can cause the hair to become brittle. When the hair regains its moisture and strength, you may stretch your treatments to every two weeks.
Try not to freak out if you feel you’ve lost your curls; there are ways to bring them back depending on whether you’re dealing with temporary or permanent damage. For permanent concerns like chemical treatments or heat damage, you might not be able to fully recover your original curl pattern, but you can nurse the hair back to a stronger state to try to prevent further damage.
Temporary concerns like dryness or long hair woes can easily be addressed. Long hair can regain its volume with a layered cut, especially if you utilize products that give your curls a boost. Dry hair can regain its elasticity and youthful appearance with the use of moisture-rich products packed with fatty acids and nourishing oils. Be kind to your hair and consider whether you truly want permanent change or if you can live with temporary enhancements.
Unique features
This exotic emollient is heavily sought out by cosmetic companies for its benefits for not only the hair, but also the scalp and skin. Jacob C. Smith notes that its high content of polyphenols fight free radicals to help retain elasticity. Its fatty acid content increases moisture levels and softness and adds shine to the strands. High amounts of vitamin A also contribute to a healthy, supple, oil-producing scalp for hair growth and length retention. Tucuma butter is an excellent choice for damaged hair in need of restructuring and stabilizing. Let’s see how it performs in some of our favorite hair products.
OBIA Hair Care Twist Whip Butter
Tucuma butter shows up in the ingredient list with other heavy hitters like shea butter and mango butter. Obia Ewah is a trained chemist and has purposed her company to produce pH balanced, non-toxic, herbal-based hair care products for natural hair.
I used tucuma butter because it is high in fatty acids that are great for the hair. This butter provides natural slip and shine for your hair without being greasy.” – Obia Ewah, Founder of Obia Natural Hair CareThe creamy whipped butter truly goes on light, enhances shine, adds moisture, and soothes effects to your tresses while still delivering the needed support to your daily hair styling routine.
Darcy Botanicals Tucuma Butter Moisture Whip
The tucuma butter is one of the top five ingredients in this formulation right beside organic jojoba oil and avocado oil. This formula is intended for the maintenance of your hair and skin. The moisturizer can be used beneath or in conjunction with your styling aids and retains moisture. This natural and eco-friendly product with botanical ingredients makes this product good for the skin, even your face!
We chose this ingredient due to its benefits for dry hair. It provides excellent moisture, sheen, and softness.” – Yvonne, Representative of Darcy Botanicals.This whipped goodness is very creamy and smells of warm aloe. It lives up to its claims of enhancing the quality of moisture in curly hair.
Original Moxie Hair Bling
Original Moxie infused the tucuma butter in this versatile styler that is made for all textures including kinky hair types. The formula increases moisture and softens and strengthens hair while supporting various styling efforts. Rachel Blistein, founder of Original Moxie, explains why tucuma was chosen in the top five ingredients for this product right after jojoba butter and mango butter: “Tucuma butter possesses an especially rich blend of fatty acids, including lauric, myristic, and oleic, which protects and moisturizes the hair. It also protects the scalp’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF”>, which keeps it supple and healthy. This butter, which imparts superior shine to the hair, is one of the main ingredients that put the “bling” in our Hair Bling High Shine Pomade and makes it a spa-like treatment that can be used on the hair, skin, and nails.” Living up to its claims, the hair bling delivers hold and shine without a stiff or flakey aftermath.
Although tucuma butter can be used on all curl patterns, I understand how its buttery descriptions may intimidate looser-haired curlies and wavies, however, it is truly beneficial to all curl types. Fine hair can use it as a pre-treatment or styler and other hair types can use it for any hair care or styling technique. While strengthening and adding hydration to the exterior layers of the hair shaft as an emollient, tucuma butter performs as promised. All of these products discussed have various functions while also sharing these similarities: strengthening, shine enhancing, and increasing moisture.
[prodmod]Will you consider tucuma butter for your fall and winter hair woes?
Based on the porosity of your hair, there are some steps to follow to keep our color lasting longer with more time in between retouches, while preserving the integrity of the hair. It has been said that porosity is the frenemy of hair color, because when porosity is balanced, the color has a better chance of a successful finish, but when the porosity is inconsistent the results may reflect that.
Here are some things to remember when preparing your hair for color based on your hair’s porosity and how well your hair can hold and maintain moisture. Highly porous hair receives moisture with minimal effort and releases moisture with minimal effort. This hair type may have gaps and holes in certain areas of the cuticle, leaving the hair vulnerable to the elements, including water, which can severely damage this fragile hair type over time. On the other hand, non-porous hair has a difficult time receiving moisture and an equally difficult time releasing moisture. This hair type is typically very glossy, can often repel moisture, and is resistant to chemical treatments. Hair with normal porosity has a more balanced cuticle and only requires an occasional amount of moisturizing and strengthening. Chemical treatments are most predictable with a normal hair type.
How to best to prepare your hair
Old school hair theory used to believe that it is best to color dirty hair. There was some real truth to this, as dirty hair typically has a residue of sebum coating the hair strands. This sebum serves as a primer or buffer on the hair strands, evening out the porosity and giving a smooth, balanced color treatment. This was especially important in pastimes when hair color was harsher and had more potential to damage one’s hair. Today you do not have to worry about salving your hair in coconut oil or olive oil to hopefully protect your strands. Hair color has evolved to find gentler methods of treatment. West Texas Colorist, Jennifer Harr, chimes in to give us a glimpse of her typical client recommendations based on porosity.
Old school hair theory used to believe that it is best to color dirty hair.
“Most hair types need to be assessed for determining if there is a buildup on the hair. Hair will process better when it is clean and free from excess product. If there is a buildup, which can be typical for low porosity hair, a clarifying shampoo is necessary or the Malibu Wellness Treatment is great for pulling out the minerals in the hair. A conditioning treatment (Malibu Miracle Treatment”> should follow to equalize the porosity and provide a more conducive surface for hair coloring. Very porous hair needs a leave-in conditioner like the ‘structure equalizer’ to be used under the color for a more even result. Without a structure equalizer on porous hair, the color could come out too darker to cool or it could simply just rinse off with the first shampoo.”
How it all works
Detoxing or clarifying treatments draw out the minerals with crystallized vitamin C. This helps to remove and prevent discoloration and brassiness attributed by iron and copper deposits on the hair, which can react with the dye molecules in the hair color. These minerals can attract to the hair through well water, hard water, and chlorine and could produce adverse colors. A removal is necessary followed by a protein rich conditioner (for certain hair types”> to mimic the natural structure of the hair. This is a great way to prepare the hair for a smooth palette before coloring.
Porosity color prep
It is always best to consult your stylist to see what they recommend for your unique hair type.
High porosity
Deep clean the hair 24-48 hrs before your treatment, deep condition with a balanced moisturizing and strengthening treatment, rinse, and style with a leave-in conditioner only (no heavy products”>. This hair type can benefit from a light trim at the time of color treatment.
Normal porosity
Cleanse your hair 24 hrs before your color treatment, skip the conditioner, and use a light leave-in conditioner.
Low porosity
Demineralize the hair with a deep clarifying shampoo or demineralizing treatment to allow the color to adhere to the cuticle. Skip the conditioner all together and ask the stylist if you should use a higher volume developer if your hair is exceptionally resistant to color.
Knowing which method is best for you is the most important piece. Take some time to consult with your stylist. The good news is that most of your hair prep can be done at home to save you time and money. Enjoy your lasting hair color treatment and repeat these steps every time you color for maximum benefits!
This is a common discussion for naturals, especially those who have previously treated their hair with chemical relaxer or texturizers. Naturals have speculated about the possibility that chemical treatments could somehow damage below the surface! With no proven data to support such speculations, experts have debunked the theories. When discussing the truth about scab hair with Dr. Linda Amerson, a doctor of trichology and expert on hair and scalp disorders, she candidly states, “There is no such thing.” She does however explain what could be going on with the alleged scab hair, and apparently it has everything to do with the condition of the scalp.
“Hair grows from the inside out and the best way to feed the scalp for healthy hair is through a healthy diet. However, the scalp can be damaged by hair styling choices, and in some cases chemicals if applied too frequently or improperly resulting in scalp disorders that can affect the texture of the incoming hair. “- Dr. Linda Amerson.
In other words, it is not simply the use of chemicals that has caused the hair texture to be altered, but rather through the harsh treatment of the scalp.This is not a matter of semantics. It is not that chemical treatments, primarily relaxers and texturizers, cause scab hair as much as it is improper or frequent use of those chemical treatments can damage the scalp in a manner that results in an altering of the hair texture. The bottom line is that a damaged scalp can change your hair texture, regardless of the means. This can also happen through wearing tight braids, weaves, and other tension bearing extension methods. Amerson warns, “Trendy styles are not always a good choice for all hair textures. By the same token, chemical treatments like relaxers, permanent hair coloring, and other texture altering substances can result in scalp conditions that affect the hair.”
Here are a few more questions we asked Dr. Amerson:
NC: How can we treat the problem?Dr. Amerson: A microscopic analysis is necessary to see what is not visible with the naked eye. Topical treatments may be necessary.
NC: Are oils helpful to proactively treat the scalp?Dr. Amerson: When there is a scalp condition, oils can be helpful based on the condition. If there is no condition present, then oils are not necessary, however dry scalp can benefit from natural oils. Determining which oils are necessary is determined on a case-by-case basis.
Mindful styling
Whether scab hair exists, matters not. What matters is that with improper hair care, you can damage your scalp and ultimately your hair. Before choosing a new style for your hair first assess if that style suits your hair texture. For example, Marley twists may not be a suitable choice for type 1, type 2 and really loose type 3 curl patterns, as they typically have a smoother hair texture, although twists are perfect for type 4 hair types. When using extensions, always use hair that matches your texture to prevent excessive friction of the cuticle. Similarly, it may not be wise for fine hair to use high or frequent heat styling methods compared to thicker or coarser hair types that are proven to withstand it better. Equally important is a healthy diet, rich in protein, fruits, and vegetables that nourish the blood that supplies the hair follicle.
Take away
Care for your hair and your scalp from the inside out, considering it is delicate and unique qualities. Your results are guaranteed to speak for themselves! If you suspect scalp damage or disorders, schedule a consultation with your local trichologist for a consultation to get the answers you need.
So, do you think your scalp is in good condition?
This month on Curly Q&A we’re lucky to have a special guest answering your curly questions, natural hair expert Janelle Sands of The Secret Curl Society has been thoughtfully answering questions from our curly community, like this one from member Puryearrk (type 3C”>.
Question:
“How can I curl Marley hair without boiling water?”
Answer:
If you want the curls to last, you want to use boiling water. If you want a softer set that will not last as long, you can:
- Spray with water and hair spray
- Roll the hair up
- Sit under a hooded dryer or air dry.
When you take out the rollers, spritz with hairspray for hold. Best Wishes!
Watch this tutorial
If you have your own questions you’d like answered by Janelle, our community or any of our editors, post them here.
After growing your daughter’s hair to a healthy length and teaching her to love all of herself, she now wants to straighten her hair! As a modern day naturalista, this may go against everything you believe in, but worry not. Here are some tips to help you along the way.
Tip 1 – Give her the confidence to wear her natural hair
Although she wants to try a straight look, the good thing is that she wants to have fun and get involved with HER HAIR. Tell her how beautiful her hair is in every state, whether curly, straight, down or up. Our hair is a golden crown that we should be proud of. So, look for moments to describe how unique her hair texture is while strategically mentioning all of the wonderful things you love about her natural hair. This will cause her to exude confidence, and to walk with her head held high.
Tip 2 – Show her how to love and care for her hair
Nothing worth keeping should be tucked away and hidden from the world. Instead it should be visibly cherished. The best way to teach “cherished hair care” is to lead by example. Speak only positive affirmations about your hair and your daughter’s hair. Then give the hair intentional, quality time. This means giving the attention it needs on a regular basis. So, rather than rushing through your hair care routines, give yourself enough time to truly focus on what you are doing so that the message of hair care is communicated positively, rather than sending the message that “hair care is arduous and difficult.” Detangling products like the Dream Kids Detangling Moisturizing Conditioner can make this process easier for you and your kiddo. This will slowly, but surely teach her to cherish her hair and herself.
Tip 3 – Products can make straightening a less daunting task
The truth is our society is fast paced with no plans of slowing down. Agendas are packed, yet our responsibilities continue to grow. Hair care sometimes calls for a little more support. Let’s not forget one major benefit to natural hair is the ability to have options. Products like the Texture Manageability System can make straightening and styling easier, which helps with time management while preserving the integrity of your child’s hair! It has a 4 out of 5 curl rating from our community and will lasts 4-6 weeks. Assess your child’s hair care needs, along with the needs of your family dynamics, to help you determine if this is a step in the right direction for the entire family.
Tip 4 – Make sure the return to curly is successful
In your heart of hearts your biggest desire is for your child to have a healthy, happy, hair experience. Therefore to set her up for success, ease your child back into her curl style. Be an attentive support throughout her cleansing process, starting with a gentle detangling session before cleansing. While you detangle her strands, discuss what happens to curly hair when it becomes wet, being sure to inform her of the shrinkage and change in texture that she may witness. Now would be an excellent time to discuss the unique adaptability of natural hair. As you cleanse her hair and the curls begin to take shape, mention how beautiful her ringlets are and how you love the part when the curls bounce back. This conversation will make your return to curls pleasant and most importantly; successful.
Our children’s natural hair care experience can be even better than ours, due to the love we have for them and the knowledge we have obtained. Consider these tips when deciding upon appropriate hair care for yourself and your child and have a blast with the versatility our hair brings.
This post is sponsored by African Pride.
Understanding the hair growth cycle
Human hair grows and falls within a cycle of four phases. Beginning with the anagen or growth phase which can last anywhere from 2-6 years. During this time the hair follicle, nourished by the blood supply beneath the scalp, produces hair that grows roughly 1 centimeter every 28 days or 6 inches per year. The next phase is the catagen phase, which last roughly 2-3 weeks. During this time the hair growth ceases and the follicle shrinks and attaches to the root of the hair, forming what’s called a “club hair.” Next, the telogen phase, or resting phase, can last up to 100 days. In this time the “club hair” is completely formed and prepared to shed. Within two weeks a new hair follicle will emerge. Each hair cycles through this process on its own time rather than a collective syncopation. This is why you do not notice much of its happenings. This process is completely normal and healthy. Most people lose anywhere from 50-100 hairs a day.
What role do products play?
Products can condition, style, and protect your hair from damage once it has been successfully produced from the hair follicle. It conditions the hair through leaving behind strengthening and hydrating elements onto and in some cases beneath the hair shaft. However, hair products do not nourish pre-existing hair. New hair is nourished through the blood that feeds the hair follicle. The right product combination should keep your existing hair strong and moisturized while enhancing its appearance with its various styling properties.
The truth about products and hair fall
“Products like shampoo will not bring out your hair unless your hair is already falling, in which case it would have fallen anyway. In other words, if you are already experiencing hair loss, then you will notice the shedding through the cleansing process. But shampoo is designed for one thing; to cleanse. So the answer to the question is no, products cannot make your hair fall out. However, it is good to know that brand new hairs known as vellus hairs are known to be sensitive to sulfates, therefore I advise thinning-haired clients to use sulfate-free products to protect the new hair growth. Hair loss and thinning is caused from something within, sometimes from stress, menopause, thyroid, or other hormonal influence, but, unfortunately it is easy to blame the hair loss on the last topical experience. You see, hair fall occurs at the root where we cannot see, so we know that external aids cannot be the cause, but can only “pre-rush” what is already in motion to occur. The hair shaft however, can be damaged through excessive braid styling, chemical treatments, and heat styling.”- Rodney Barnett, trichologist of the Hair Restoration Center in Dallas.
Take away
This is great news! According to our expert trichologist, hair products alone cannot cause shedding, but rather what is happening on the inside. So, regardless of if your curl pattern is curly, wavy, or coily, keeping yourself in a healthy emotional balance is beneficial along with a healthy diet and active lifestyle to fortify the blood supply that nourishes the hair follicle. Remember that appropriate hair care is equally important for preventing damage to the hair shaft. Those with thinning hair should opt for a sulfate-free shampoo to protect all hairs, but especially the new vellus hairs as they develop.
So fear not, there is no need to fret over non-existent side effects of that new product you have been eyeing. Just go for it. Doesn’t it feel good to be set free by hair-truth?
So, what products do you currently use?
For additional information please visit www.rodneybarnett.com or email him at barnettrodney2000@yahoo.com. Other resources: www.hairdoc.com, www.rodneybarnett.com.
What’s the difference between a cleansing conditioner and a regular conditioner?
Different hair types require very different haircare regimens. Every woman needs her own custom hair routine with a cabinet stocked with products that work for her specific needs. In a typical curl cabinet you might at the very least find shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, oils, and styling products. And if the curl is really advanced, she has a leave-in conditioner on deck. In some sink cabinets you may find a more unfamiliar product….a cleansing conditioner. This may be a foreign substance to some and “part of the family” for others. But what do we really know about a cleansing conditioner? You might have wondered, is this just a different name for a co-wash? Is it another sneaky name for a shampoo or can I just use my regular conditioner as a cleansing conditioner? Well take a closer look with me.
Camille Rose Naturals Cream Restore Conditioning Cleanser
Fab Top Ingredients
Deionized water, glycerin, behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS”>, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, carthamus tinctorius (safflower seed oil”>
The Breakdown
- Glycerin– a water soluble hygroscopic, also known as a humectant, a substance able to derive moisture from the air and to the hair.
- Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS”> – a vegetable-based conditioning and emulsifying agent. Very popular ingredient for textured hair products.
- Cetearyl alcohol– a conditioning emulsifier and stabilizer made of fatty alcohols found in plants like coconut and palm oil. Also prevents separation and is a foaming agent.
- Behentrimonium chloride– an emollient, used as a thickening and emulsifying agent in hair products. This mild ingredient can enrich without buildup and aids in detangling.
- Carthamus tinctorius (safflower seed oil“> – an emollient rich in lineolic acid an essential fatty acid. Known to benefit dry and fragile hair.
Analysis
The formulation is made with very wholesome ingredients that are gentle and fine. Essential oils and fatty acids are plentiful, producing plump rich results. With a conditioning cleanser you reap the full benefits of a streamlined conditioner, while gently cleansing the hair. Conditioning cleansers will not leave your hair stripped and dry. They will have your hair clean and softened without heavy buildup that you might get from using daily conditioner for a repeated amount of time. You can frequently use cleansing conditioners without the fear of your hair drying out or accumulating buildup. Most importantly, based on the condition of the hair, you are not obligated to follow up with a rinse out conditioner! Damaged hair may want to use a follow-up treatment.
Camille Rose Naturals Owner Janell Stephens says, “This product (Camille Rose Naturals Cream Restore Conditioning Cleanser”> removes buildup with coconut extracts, matric aria flowers, and marshmallow extracts which have light conditioning properties. Jojoba oils help to smooth the ingredients through the hair easily. In essence, it lightly conditions and cleanses.”
Camille Rose Naturals Jansyn’s “Moisture Max” Conditioner
Fab Top Ingredients
Distilled water, cocos nucifere (coconut milk”>, carthamus tinctorius (safflower”> seed oil, elaeis guineensis (palm”> kernel oil, cocos nucifera (coconut”> oil, butyrospermum parkii (shea”> butter, aloe barbadensis leaf juice
The Breakdown
- Cocos nucifere (coconut milk“>/ cocos nucifera (coconut oil“>- a conditioning agent, emollient and solvent. These two coconut derivatives are penetrating to the cortex of the hair providing strength and structure. A tried and true addition to moisturizing hair products.
- Carthamus tinctorius (safflower seed oil“>- an emollient rich in lineolic acid an essential fatty acid. Known to benefit dry and fragile hair.
- Elaeis guineensis (palm kernel oil“>- a plant extract and strengthening oil, which also can also penetrate to the cortex of the hair, strengthening the inner layer. Functions as an emollient.
- Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter“>- derived from the nut of an African shea tree. An emollient for softening and moisturizing.
- Aloe barbadensis leaf juice– derived from leaves of the aloe leaf, rich in vitamins, minerals, amino acids, enzymes, and proteins. Acts as a humectant for the hair and has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties to benefit the scalp.
Analysis
Throughout the list of ingredients you see a compilation of enriching and conditioning ingredients. When combined and emulsified into a product, these ingredients leave a lasting impression on the surface of the hair and within the hair shaft. Gentle, natural humectants are added to attract and maintain moisture levels within the hair. Oils are added for slip and detangling support to delicate strands. As rinse-out conditioner this can be used immediately following a cleansing session or you can use as a stand-alone conditioner as needed.
According to Janell Stephens, “Jansyn’s ‘Moisture Max’ Conditioner is a highly moisturizing rinse-out conditioner with natural ingredients to nourish the hair. Every now and then you will still need a deep conditioner for intense conditioning. However, there’s no way to tell a person what exact products to use. I believe people should try different products to find the best regimen for them.”
So what does this mean for your hair type?
If you desire increased moisture levels, a balanced pH, and clean hair with minimal buildup, then you may find a cleansing conditioner to suit your fancy. If you desire increased moisture levels, ultimate hydration on a regular basis, and detangling bliss, a moisturizing conditioner would fit your profile.
All hair types need cleansing and conditioning. Frequent wash and go-ers will really get a kick out of cleansing conditioners. They add the moisture you need to combat the recurring manipulation that goes into a wash and go, yet they will gently clean away any excess product needed for styling. Women of every curl pattern can benefit from a moisturizing conditioner when their hair feels dry or if they have very thirsty, coarse strands. Based on your hair type, you can govern the regularity of usage.
The Bottom Line
As previously stated by Stephens, it can be difficult to know what is best for your hair type without trying various products. My suggestion is to find a product line that meets your general concerns. For example, these specific products address the condition of the hair. Look for words that speak to your need, read the ingredient list, and try it out!
What is your current hair need?
[prodmod]
Reference for ingredient descriptions: Tightly Curly & Paula’s Choice
It’s not news that our generation is embracing healthier lifestyles, with the words detox, organic, and natural gaining momentum and greater significance. Many people, when considering the importance of healthy living, examine their diet first. Then, they may start to think about removing harmful chemicals from their household and cosmetic products.
According to New York City dermatologist Anne Chapas, MD, “The FDA doesn’t provide guidance on natural personal-care products, be they toothpaste or mascara…In fact, the cosmetic industry has generally been self-regulated since 1938. Currently, manufacturers of cosmetic products are not subject to inspection or review before going public.”
Basically, it’s up to us to check our own labels. And, if you’ve glanced at the back of your shampoo bottle in the shower lately, you may have noticed a long list of even longer, scary-sounding names. This guide will tell you which of these ingredients you should steer clear of.
1. Sunscreen Chemicals
Avobenzone, Benzophenones, Octylethoxycinnamate, PABA are commonly used ingredients that are added to hair products to protect hair from the sun, because hair needs UV/UVB protection too. An added benefit of sunscreen in hair products is its color protecting qualities, making color treatments last longer. On the flip side, because they cannot destroy the sun’s energy, the light energy turns into chemical energy, which is normally released as cell-damaging free radicals. Other cause for concern is that these chemicals in high quantities can easily be absorbed into the skin and cause skin irritants in most people.
2. Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
This water-based preservative emerged in the wood and paint industries before making its way to cosmetics, where it’s used in creams and lotions to prevent mold, bacteria, and other germs from spreading. Is it really harmful? Well, Japan seems to think so since it has banned the substance, and The Cosmetic Ingredient Review — an independent review panel — limits its use in cosmetics to .1% or less due to the potential to irritate skin in concentrations of .5% and above. Other allegations include quick absorption into the bloodstream, as well as dermal and inhalation toxicity. The CIR also notes that it should never be used in aerosol products because of inhalation risks.
Watch out for these terms:
IPBC, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, carbamic acid, Glycacil®, and IodoCarb®
Natural alternatives:
Natural preservative alternatives with anti-microbial properties include grapefruit seed and rosemary extracts; tea tree, neem seed, and thyme essential oils; vitamin E and vitamin C are also options. These natural alternatives prevent oils and fats from becoming rancid; however, their drawback is their shorter shelf life.
3. Lactic acid
This compound originating from sour milk is used in the hair product industry to allow the breakdown of skin and hair impurities to help other skin and scalp ingredients penetrate further. Prolonged use can lead to eye and skin irritation and for this reason is restricted in Canada. You want lactic acid to be one of the last names on the ingredients list when using a product with this chemical. High concentration could produce chemically altering effects. Ref: PurifySkinTherapy.com, EWGs Skin Deep Cosmetics Database
4. Lead Acetate
This is a very common color additive in modern hair dye products and — the big “C” word — a possible carcinogen. It has been banned in the European Union and Canada, and, according to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC”>, it’s one of the most dangerous chemicals found in skin care because it’s “a known reproductive and developmental toxin linked to infertility, birth defects, and developmental delays.”
However, in 2002, the American FDA concluded that, “According to safety tests, no significant increase in blood levels of lead was seen in trial subjects and the lead was not shown to be absorbed into the body through such use.” Therefore, the FDA determined lead acetate to be safe when specific instructions listed on the packaging are followed. Therefore, you may begin to notice the following on products containing lead acetate: “Caution: Contains lead acetate. For external use only. Keep this product out of children’s reach. Do not use on cut or abraded scalp. If skin irritation develops, discontinue use. Do not use to color mustaches, eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair on parts of the body other than the scalp. Do not get in eyes. Follow instructions carefully and wash hands thoroughly after use.”
5. Lanolin
Lanolin is the purified secretory product of the sheep sebaceous gland — or, more plainly sheep sweat. This slightly unpleasant origin has earned the ingredient bad press as a scary ingredient in the past, but it is actually not dangerous if it’s purified lanolin. Although lanolin has been known to cause an allergic response in a very small percentage of people, purified lanolin is a clean, healthy product to use. Extensive research by the CIR deemed lanolin to have “low acute toxicity based on available animal data and human experience,” and went on to say that lanolin and related lanolin materials are safe for human topical application. This is good news considering its moisturizing benefits.
6. Phthalates
In hair products, phthalates are used primarily as hair-gelling agents in products. You will notice this by the term “fragrance” in your ingredient list. These phthalates, often simply labeled as “fragrance,” are known and praised for making product scents last longer, but they may not be entirely safe.
While phthalates have been accused of hormone tampering, a study by the University of Michigan found decreased testosterone in young boys exposed to high levels ofphthalates. The United States is slowly learning of the harm phthalates can cause, but Canada has already placed strict regulations on the ingredient.
7. PEG-3 Cocamide
This is a foaming agent used in hair products to produce the common mousse-like consistency. The National Library of Medicine, HazMap, notes that this ingredient is a human immune system toxicant; moreover, the United States Environmental Protection Agency, Office of Pesticide Programs, says that this ingredient may be a cause of cancer to humans. Although research for the cause of cancer is lacking, it is probably best to steer clear of this ingredient, anyway, especially as it is not essential to the effectiveness of the product. Instead, choose a similar product in a cream base rather than in foam-form.
8. Amino Methyl Propanol
This active ingredient is used as a pH adjuster that is generally considered safe at levels of concentrations below 2%. Unfortunately, many hair products, especially those requiring a strong pH adjuster (think chemically altering hair straighteners or hair dyes”> require concentrations well above 12%, which could cause irritation, speficically affecting the eye area. Because of this possible irritation, some people may wish to to use natural products that temporarily alter the state of their hair rather than products that aim to permanently alter it, since the latter carries a greater risk.
9. Nitrosamines
Nitrosamines are formed when certain compounds (typically TEA and DEA”> are used with certain preservatives that can break down into nitrates. TEA and DEA are typically used as wetting agents or pH adjusters in cosmetic products. Specifically DEA is used as an emulsifier in shampoos, cleaners, and detergents providing rich later and highly desired consistencies, while TEA is used as fragrance, pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.
However, when mixed with particular substances these can break down into nitrosamines. The UK’s Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform describes nitrosamines as “more toxic to animal species than any other category of chemical carcinogen.” Canada has banned and found them unsafe for use in cosmetics. While common in American cosmetics, nitrosamines are not listed on product labels because they are impurities, so look to avoid ingredients like: triethanolamine, diethanolamine, DEA, TEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, lauramide DEA, linoleamide MEA, myristamide DEA, oleamide DEA, stearamide MEA, TEA-lauryl sulfate.
10. Parabens (methyl, butyl, ethyl, propyl”>
This sneaky ingredient is used in products as a preservative, yet is rarely labeled correctly. The easiest way to avoid this ingredient is to use products labeled “paraben-free.” Although parabens are typically found in breast cancer tumors, more research is still needed to determine if parabens actually cause breast cancer. Still, many women are choosing to go the paraben-free route and opting for products containing natural preservatives. The downside to natural preservatives is that the they don’t preserve products for very long, so your beauty products will have a shorter shelf life than you’re used to.
Best Practices
It’s important to make informed decisions about what you put on your hair and body, but in order to do that, you’ve got to have at least a basic understanding of what ingredients you may want to avoid. Keeping an eye out for the substances listed above is a great start.
Your hair shaft contains three important parts. The medulla is the innermost part found in thicker hair types and is often missing from fine hair. The next layer is called the cortex, made up of cells of keratin, which is responsible for 90% of the strands’ weight. It is the cortex that determines the texture and natural color of the hair. The outermost part of the hair is the cuticle, made up of overlapping, colorless cells similar to roof-like shingles that serve as a protective barrier to the cortex.
While color treatments are fun and exciting, they can be either helpful or harmful to your hair based on the hair type and chosen method. Here are three types of temporary hair coloring methods to explore.
Demi-Permanent Color
This hair color is typically offered as a professional service and is considered a professional product. Demi-permanent color is naturally ammonia-free, has a low pH, and uses a very low-volume developer (1:1 ratio”> to gently lift the cuticle to penetrate beneath the surface to the cortex; therefore preserving the integrity of the hair. It can cover gray up to 50% and can last up to 28 shampoos. According to Goldwell Colorance, some formulas can even strengthen the hair shaft and boasts of 35% improved hair structure with its line.
Semi-Permanent Color
This form of color adsorbs onto the outside of the hair shaft with some molecules absorbing beneath the cuticle layer based on the porosity of the hair. Porous hair will receive more color than non-porous hair. With each shampoo, color is removed and can last up to eight shampoos. Semi-permanents are typically retail products rather than professional and provide up to 30% gray coverage. With each shampoo, the color will rinse out of the hair. Semi-permanents utilize no developer, thus preserving the condition of the hair.
Temporary Color
This option requires the least amount of commitment with color lasting around 1-3 washes. Semi-permanent color works with large color molecules attaching to the outer cuticle of the hair. These color molecules are much too large to absorb beneath the surface but will adhere to the shaft based on the hair’s porosity. This type of color is safe for multiple uses and even safe after a chemical relaxer treatment. No developer is used and little to no gray coverage is expected. However when applied to pre-lightened or damaged/porous hair, temporary color may stain the hair shaft. To make your temporary hair color last a bit longer and look a tad brighter, cover with a plastic cap and sit under heated dryer for 30-45 min.
Hair Care for Temporary-Color Treated Hair
Toby Vernay, master professional stylist and salon educator of Pura Vida Salon and Spa of West Texas, advises the use of color-safe products with UV protection for longer lasting color following each of the temporary coloring options. According to Vernay, most if not all professional products are now color-safe. He further advises that hair which has been previously treated with permanent hair color can use demi-permanent hair color to retouch and refresh fading color, rather than repeating permanent color treatments. This is a safer, healthier option without additional harm to the hair.
Feel free to have fun with temporary hair color. It is truly a safe option for your textured strands. Be sure to utilize the hair care tips above to reap the full benefits of your desired color treatment.
Have you tried demi-permanent, semi-permanent, or temporary color? Which do you prefer? How do you retain your color?
As thankful as we are to have choices, more options warrant more responsibility to educate oneself in order to make good decisions. And how do we know if we have made a good decision? Well, when we finish the entire bottle of a new product without discontinued use. So, congrats to you for doing your due diligence in seeking knowledge and understanding of the differences between a cream styler and gel. Today our two subjects for comparison will be DevaCurl Light Defining Gel and DevaCurl Styling Cream.
The 80’s have permanently scared many away from using the cast forming, crunch of a crystallized gel. However, since those days are far from us, gels are regaining popularity and now women prefer a crunch-less hold. The DevaCurl Light Defining Gel is suitable for all curly and coily hair while the DevaCurl Styling Cream is best for wavy hair. The DevaCurl product line is known for reaching a diverse audience of curl types with award winning botanical products. Let’s hear from the DevaCurl Team:
DevaCurl Light and Ultra Defining Gels’ primary function is to deliver hold, secondarily moisture. Both gels and cream stylers have a vegetable-derived glycerin base and oat & soy content that offer moisture and strength of hold. Amino acids provide strength and shine. DevaCurl gels allow a curl cast to form from wet to dry, locking in the frizz-free finish. The curl cast is softened by scrunching once dry.” –Molly Owen, Director of Education
How to Apply Gel
- Tilt head forward
- Scrunch wet curls in an upward motion
- Apply gel between palms and glide through hair
- Scrunch upward toward the scalp to define curls
- Once dry, scrunch curls again to release cast to reveal beautiful curls
- Resist the urge to touch your curls once you’ve applied the DevaCurl Light Defining Gel. This rule is particularly important on frizz prone days.
Ingredients
You will see the smoothing, moisture blocking, holding agents are first among the list of ingredients followed by the conditioning agents.
Water (Aqua, Eau”>, VP/VA Copolymer (moisture blocking, holding polymer“>, Polyquaternium-7 (moisture blocking, holding agent“>, Glycerin (humectant, moisture attracting“>, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (solvent“>, Triticum Aestivum (Wheat”> Peptide (conditioning lubricant“>, Avena Sativa (Oat”> Peptide (hydrating protectant“>, Glycine Soja (Soybean”> Peptide (conditioning solvent“>, Melissa Officinalis Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops”> Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria”> Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary”> Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, DMDM Hydantoin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance (Parfum”>
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“DevaCurl Styling Cream’s primary function is to deliver moisture and conditioning properties, secondarily hold. Styling cream has a cream base and utilizes yucca starch as a natural source for fortifying and protecting the curls. While the hold factor is considerably softer than that of our gels, many curl types (Botticelli’s +”> do find enough hold by use of DevaCurl Styling Cream. Use Spray Gel around crown for added hold.” – Molly Owen, Director of Education
How to Apply Cream Styler
- Scrunch throughout damp hair, targeting denser curls for ultimate conditioning
- Use on dry hair for individual curl definition
- Spray the DevaCurl Spray Gel at the roots and crown for added definition and lift
Ingredients
The conditioning ingredients are first on the list followed by holding agents and stabilizers.
Water (Aqua, Eau”>, Cetearyl Alcohol (conditioning emulsifier“>, Glycerin (moisture attracting protectant“>, Behentrimonium Chloride (conditioning agent”>, Tapioca Starch (viscosity enhancer“>, Cetrimonium Chloride (cleansing emulsifier”>, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (conditioning agent“>, Laureth-4 (surfactant emulsifying agent“>, Ethyl Macadamiate (conditioning agent“>, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein (conditioning agent“>, Panthenol (conditioning agent“>, Melissa Officinalis Extract (soothing herb“>, Humulus Lupulus (Hops”> Extract (antimicrobial, conditioning, smoothing“>, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria”> Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary”> Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Propylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Disodium EDTA, Aminomethyl Propanol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Fragrance (Parfum”>.
The Difference Between the Two
As you can see these two products are purposefully formulated to have two very distinctive effects.
- Gel is meant to hold the hair with some conditioning.
- Cream is meant to condition the hair with some hold.
Which will be better for you? The answer to that question is based not only on your hair type but also how you work the products. Hair that is always battling dryness will definitely need a cream based styler and hair that needs a minimal amount of additional moisture can use the gel.
Guess what? They can even be used together! For added conditioning and added hold, apply your cream styler first followed by your gel. Your hair will reap the conditioning benefits while warding the frizzies away.
So next time you get stuck on the aisle in contemplation, just remember the intention behind these two formulations, make your selection, and go home.
…And I hope you make it through your entire bottle of product before taking a “break”…
Which do you prefer?
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According to their creator, Mahisha Dellinger, “Gels are great for defining, defrizzing, and styling curls in place and are used from root to tip. Pomades are ideal for sculpting and slicking straight or curly hair in place. They are generally used for the first 3-4” of hair. For example, our customers use CURLS Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste to smooth down their edges and for slicking back their ponytails, buns, chignons, or any other protective styles. They use our CURLS Goddess Curls Gelle on freshly cleansed and/or conditioned hair to define and defrizz their hair. They allow the hair to air dry to create a wet, defined look or diffuse for a naturally defined look.
Gels
The purpose of any gel is to enhance curl definition and hold the hair together from root to tip. A good gel will leave the hair defined and shiny with adequate hold. This particular gel has a strong hold without a stiff feel. Its unique quality is the botanicals, which means it uses natural, organic ingredients that rinse off easily with water and do not require a heavy shampoo.
The Tester: CURLS Goddess Curls Botanical Gelle
Like most gels, Curls Goddess Curls Gelle protects the hair from humidity to enhance and sustain curl definition. It provides all day protection and soft, touchable curls. The hold is created through styling polymers that cause the hair to attract to itself, forming clusters of softer curls. However, just because a gel is hard does not mean it is a bad formulation. The crunchy or smooth texture of the hair is simply a personal preference. Below you will see the purpose of the key ingredients in the CURLS Goddess Curls Gelle.
Ingredients
- Water, Sorbitol, Polyacrylate-14, Polyquaternium-7, Polysorbate 20, Fruit Certified Organic Mangifera Indica (Mango”> Seed Butter, Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1 – emulsifier
- Carbomer – polymer
- Certified Organic Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter”> – conditioning and viscosity agent
- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice – moisturizer
- Aminomethyl Propanol – pH Balancer
- Tetrasodium EDTA – preservative
- Phenoxyethano – conditioning preservative
- DMDM Hydantoin – preservative
Pomades
A pomade formulation could also be called paste, putty, whip, or glue. Pomades of the past were usually beeswax or petroleum based for heavy styling. Although newer editions may contain traces of both wax and petroleum, other additives create a smoother, lighter finish. CURLS Passion Fruit Control Paste is also formulated with pure organic ingredients like shea butter & mango seed butter. It’s excellent for slicking edges in place for updo styles or ultra-defined curl styles.
The Tester: CURLS Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste
Ingredients
- Water, Ceteareth-25, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Isostearyl Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Shea Butter, Mango Seed Butter – emulsifying
- Jojoba Oil – emulsifier
- Vitamin E Oil – conditioning
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – stabilizer
- Passion Fruit Oil – conditioning agent
- Evening Primrose Oil – conditioning agent
- Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydro- lyzed Maize Starch – conditioning, film forming
- Panthenol – moisturizer
- Phenoxyethanol – preservative
- Fragrance
The Difference
A gel is best utilized for a wash and go or other loose styles. A gel controls the hair and holds it in the place. Once dry, the cast it creates to hold the clumped curls together can be broken to release the clusters of curls from sticking to each other, allowing movement. Gel provides shine from light reflection and can usually last 1-4 days depending on the hair type.
Pomades are designed for sculpted styles like ponytails, updos, or other coiffed looks. Its ability to lay hairs in an orderly fashion allots for enhanced shine and smoothness. While typically used at the roots and edges of hair, ladies with thick, coily hair could also use pomades for twists or wet styling to help lay down the hair shaft and enhance shine.
How to Choose
- Choose a gel and/or pomade without harsh additives that are difficult to rinse out.
- Look for nutrient rich ingredients in styling products. Our hair is more than cosmetic fodder; it is a part of us.
- Read the directions on the package for successful, best practices.
How do you use gels and pomades? Do you use them together?
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Product-junkie. Product-hoarder. Product-stasher. Do those words describe your hair product purchasing habits? Are you product-suspicious, product-leery, or a product-skeptic? What differentiates the junkie from the skeptic? How does one group of people tend toward a certain pattern while another group is on the opposite spectrum?
The answers are found within consumer behavior science, the study of processes used to select products and services that meet consumer needs and the impacts that these processes have on individuals and society at large. This has led to the creation of many tools to help us understand how we make purchases. In 1910, John Dewey first introduced the Consumer Decision Making Process which consists of five stages; Needs Recognition, Research, Product Evaluation, Product Choice, and Post-Purchase Evaluation and Behavior. We all pass through variations of these steps in every purchasing or non-purchasing decision. Product companies with the finest marketers are well versed in this science and align their marketing strategies to fit consumer decisions and behaviors. Let’s take a closer look on how this process affects our hair product selections.
Stage 1: Needs Recognition
The start of this purchasing process begins in the awareness of a personal need or want. Without desire, no purchase will be made. The actualization of any need and want can be triggered by external or internal stimuli. Internal stimuli would be a need, felt by the individual such as running out of conditioner, or your hair feeling dry. On the other hand, external stimuli come from outside influences, such as a product rave on YouTube, or a marketing advertisement for curl definition. Although the acknowledgement of a need is the key, it does not guarantee a purchase will be made. It does however guarantee that the consumer will proceed with the decision making process.
Curly Cassie’s Case Study: After noticing breakage, a need has risen. Her online curl community suggests deep conditioning to treat breakage. She has determined the need to stop breakage by finding a deep conditioning product.
Stage 2: Research
Once the need is identified, the buyer begins to explore ways to best meet the need. The intensity of the research is determined by the severity of the need. For example, selecting a protein may be (is”> less intensive than purchasing a home. It is also determined by the consumer’s level of involvement or motivation. Highly involved consumers will seek multiple sources of information. Lower involved consumers will seek fewer sources. At the onset of researching, the consumer will rehearse prior knowledge of the brands or product solutions she has experienced. From here, she will consider third party opinions and reviews from family, friends, and media peers before considering a company sales-pitch.
Curly Cassie’s Case Study: She analyzes what has caused the breakage, removes that product, and thinks back to when her hair was the fullest and strongest to remember what products she believes contributed to that length retention. Then, she discusses the possibilities with her friends and family who make a few suggestions before going to social media to see what the curly community thinks. From there, she visits specific product company websites to further explore the facts.
Stage 3: Product Evaluation
Once the research is complete, the consumer evaluates the collected information offered to determine the most suitable selection. Here is where the consumer will pair the products against each other and against their most important concerns. More positive consumers will consider the best attributes of a product or service. Negative consumers may cut the list down as quickly as possible by identifying unfavorable attributes. This evaluation process always takes into account one’s personal perception of the company’s image.
Curly Cassie’s Case Study: Cassie keeps a mental list of the great qualities in every option. She creates a list of her top choices while considering her budget and discount options.
Stage 4: Product Choice and Purchase
Here, the consumer makes her final decisions on what products and services are priority or most desirable. As she proceeds to the register, other factors could make or break the deal such as store environment, customer service, and ease of transaction. For example, an online coupon code that doesn’t work could derail the process, therefore defaulting to another product selection. Poor customer service or purchase terms, warranties, or return policies could also be a deterrent when making a purchase.
Curly Cassie’s Case Study: Cassie decides to purchase her two entire collections of her favorite brand (product junkie in the making”>, but while checking out at CurlMart she receives a new promotional offer via email for a her initial choice. She naturally replaces that product with an original selection and is elated to receive the extra 10% off and free scalp treatment sample.
Stage 5: Post Purchase Behavior
Once the product is purchased and used the consumer immediately evaluates the product’s performance and whether it met the original need. To treat or prevent the feelings of buyer’s remorse, product companies often prompt consumers for feedback. If the consumer is satisfied, they could turn into a loyal customer and potentially create a loyal following of others. On the other hand, a dissatisfied consumer will simply travel the five step process all over again to find another product or service.
Curly Cassie’s Case Study: Cassie is using her two new product lines and is generally happy. She now finds herself comparing the two products lines to each other. This process helps her to understand her hair type and she determines that one product is a better fit than the other and becomes a loyal customer of Product Company #1…..well, at least until the next product trend arises.
Take Away
When it comes to your hair care, there’s no need to be swayed by every new trend or topic that arises. Consider these gentle reminders with you as you make future consumer decisions.
- Be honest with yourself. Some products are just not for you…. and you know it.
- Be aware of your needs. Don’t wait for a commercial to tell you something is wrong with you.
- Be connected to a trusted community for support like NaturallyCurly.com. Consider this community as your first option for informed, relevant research.
- Be balanced. Too much of anything is good for nothing; including hair products! If you have a weakness to beauty marketing, be proactive by ordering a subscription box like CurlBOX or CurlKit or give yourself a monthly product allowance to regulate your purchasing.
- Most importantly, be conscious.
Choose not to make erratic, compulsive decisions, but informed confident decisions in a methodical, intentional way. You’ll be happy that you did.
What convinces you to purchase a new product? Curiosity or need?
After doing a certain ritual for so many years, there always comes a time when you challenge the routine by asking questions like why do I do this and could I still have the same effect if I did something else? This is what happens to us with our shampoo and conditioning. What is your hair care ritual? I detangle, shampoo, and condition every time. What do you do and why do you do it? At some point, I heard the question, Can you shampoo after conditioning?
Not knowing how to immediately respond caused me to dig deep within my own knowledge and experience. I sought out key contributors of our beauty industry for insight on the topic. This method could change the way your hair feels after wash day, for some the change will be positive and others it may be negative. But knowing that there is another way beyond the traditional directions on every bottle may open your eyes to new ways of using your favorite products.
The Purpose of Shampoo
Shampoo was created to cleanse our hair and scalp of dirt, shed skin, dust particle debris, product buildup, and excess sebum, the natural oil produced by our scalp. The active ingredients that cause this cleansing action are surfactants. Surfactant molecules have a hydrophilic heads and a lipophilic tails. The lipophilic end attaches to the debris causing it to cluster into little balls that can be washed away. The hydrophilic end attaches to water molecules, causing the debris to rinse off. As the hair is rinsed, the dirt and other debris are washed away. Although there are many different types of cleansers, the average shampoo will have a pH of 8, which is slightly alkaline. At this level, the hair shaft will swell to raise the outer layers of the cuticle (that protect inner workings of the hair”> similar to limbs on a tree.
The Purpose of Conditioner
Conditioner was created to strengthen and moisturize the hair after shampooing. Conditioners have a pH between 3.5-6. It’s purpose is to bring your hair back into a healthy moisture balance and smooth or “close” the cuticle while detangling and preparing the hair for the rigors of styling. This happens through the cationic surfactants within the conditioner that carry a positive electric charge that binds to the negative charge of the hair strand. These surfactants coat the hair, leaving a thin film that adheres to the cuticle, providing moisture, protection, and manageability.
Shampoo AFTER Conditioner
Anna Purseglove of Daily Mail considers reverse shampooing the secret to perfect hair. Touting her much desired benefits of detangling, and glossing along with extra volume. She states,“ I could see a marked difference in my hair. Not only did it leave my hair shinier, it helped combat frizz caused when particles of dirt stuck to the residual product. Best of all, it felt softer yet thicker.” Utilizing this technique would first coat the hair strand with binding surfactants followed by the shampoo which would remove most of what is currently present, depending on chosen shampoo. Typically this technique would not utilize a follow-up conditioner.
Shampoo Before Conditioner
To continue the tried-and-true method of cleansing before conditioning would mean you would cleanse the hair with your shampoo, removing dirt oil and buildup followed by the a surface conditioner. You should end up with clean, well-conditioned, manageable hair. As your cuticle becomes slightly raised by the water and shampoo, your conditioner instantly counteracts, smoothing the cuticle for the ideal pH balance for healthy hair.
The Facts
Wavy hair types might be tempted to utilize the reverse shampoo method, but this has the high potential to bring extreme damage to kinky curly textures, due to the swelling of the hair strand from the alkaline pH without a balancing follow-up. Regardless of hair texture, a raised cuticle is not the ideal state for the hair. A cuticle in it’s raised state is more susceptible to damage from the elements and daily styling, making it more prone to chipping along the hair shaft which leads to breakage.
Obia, owner of Obia Natural Hair Care, chimes in: “If you are not getting great results with your current shampoo-conditioner, you need to get a new product. There is a scientific reason for shampooing before conditioning. Ideally, your shampoo will have a higher pH balance and your conditioner will have a lower pH to bring your hair back into the appropriate moisture balance. Your products should have a pH of 4.5-5.5. The right formula will produce the right result. In other words, if it doesn’t make sense scientifically, it will not make sense practically.”
The Final Verdict
Is this an acceptable practice? Well, to each his own. It may work for someone, but not without great risks. Instead of risking it all for added volume, try a product with a low molecular weight, one that will not add weight to the hair, such as a leave-in conditioner in place of your rinse out conditioner and shampoos containing light oils rather than derivatives of castor oil and the like (check your ingredients”>. For the curly that craves more moisture or strength from a shampoo ritual, add pre-poo to your regimen before you shampoo and conditioning. This is proven to reduce swelling of the hair shaft.
Pre-Pooing
Will Williams, an education director of new products, and research and development of M & M products recommends the following:
- Allow your coconut oil to sit on your hair for a minimum of 15 minutes or overnight (pre-poo”>
- Cleanse with a sulfate-free shampoo followed by a rinse out conditioner
- Apply a leave-in conditioner
- Seal your tips with a very light oil
Looser textures can also benefit from the same regimen by simply using lighter versions of products.
Do you shampoo before conditioning? Do you condition before you shampoo? Have you tried both? What was your experience like?
By now you may have learned a thing or two about shampoo formulation. You have heard of the co-wash technique and I’m sure you’ve studied a bit on deep conditioning. The more we learn the more our thirst for knowledge and understanding increases. For that reason, there are more products that perform differently on our hair. For example, have you tried a co-wash conditioner? Or do you use your daily conditioner as your co-wash? Let’s take a look at the differences between the two formulations to see how to best incorporate them into our regimen.
Before we begin we must understand the nature of our hair, which holds a negative charge. Shampoos typically contain negative charged detergents making them effective at removing dirt and oil. Conditioners hold a positive cationic charge that attracts to the hair and does not completely rinse off. These conditioners replace the healthy oils and moisturizing lipids that are removed by the shampoo process. The remnants of the conditioner add a smidgen of weight and make the hair easier to comb through.
Why use daily conditioner?
The purpose of your daily conditioner is to bring your hair back into a healthy strength and moisture balance after cleansing with its accompanying shampoo. The daily conditioner will contain ingredients that will moisturize your hair and prepare it for styling. Daily conditioners will not create a long-term buildup on your hair when used according to its instructions. They are typically gentle enough to use daily without strong risks of breakage or damage. For this reason many naturals who are looking for a gentler approach to hair care use the daily conditioner, which some is also known as a cream rinse or regular conditioner.
Daily Conditioner Formulation
Here is a sneak peek at the ingredients within the Ouidad Whipped Curls Daily Conditioner and Styling Primer (the first five ingredients have agent indicators”>:
Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol (conditioning agent“>, Glycerin (conditioning agent“>, Behentrimonium Chloride (conditioning agent“>, Cetyl Esters (thickening agent“>, Polyquaternium-37 (conditioning agent“>, Lanolin, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive”> Fruit Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea”> Butter, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive”> Oil Unsaponifiables, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, Amodimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ceteareth-20, Lauryl Glucoside, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Benzophenone-4, Trideceth-12, Cetrimonium Chloride, Butylene Glycol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, DMDM Hydantoin, Triethanolamine, Benzyl Salicylate, Fragrance/Parfum
Why use a co-wash?
Hair product companies saw how the general public grew concerned with the less than desirable hair care options available to us. As the companies listened intently on what the direct needs of the consumers were, they found that many women desired gentler options for caring for their curls. Desiring to live a more natural lifestyle, curlies realized there was less of a need for a heavy-duty shampoo. So, back to the drawing board the companies went and delivered us co-wash conditioners. When these products first arrived, many thought it was simply a marketing ploy to get women to purchase something that they thought was gentler. However, the truth is that the formulated co-washes are indeed gentler! They are designed to gently cleanse your hair and scalp and provide conditioning benefits without taking away the necessary oils that keep hair healthy. In essence, they provide a light cleansing and light conditioning of the hair and scalp. In fact, it is so gentle (yet effective”> that product companies like Ouidad and As I Am recommend finishing with a leave-in conditioner, especially for thicker hair that may need more conditioning. This blend will contain both elements of cleansing and nourishing agents.
Co-wash formulation
Take a sneak peek at the ingredients in the Ouidad Curl Co-Wash (the first five ingredients have agent indicators”>:
Aqua (Water/Eau”>, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (cleansing agent“>, Cetearyl Alcohol (conditioning agent“>, Behentrimonium Chloride (conditioning agent“>, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (thickening agent“>, Ricinus Communis (Castor”> Seed Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary”> Leaf Oil, Salvia Officinalis (Sage”> Oil, Fragrance/Parfum, Citric Acid, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone
Expert opinion: When to use what
While it would appear that the formulated co-wash would be a better choice than the latter, both concoctions will rinse away most of the product, therefore taking dirt and debris with it, leaving some nourishment behind. However, I am a firm advocate of using your hair products the way they were designed to work. Product companies put their best foot forward when communicating to the consumer the best practices of a particular product, as this is most beneficial to the company. While a daily conditioner can absolutely suffice for your gentle wash, its cleansing capabilities are a by-product of what it is designed to do, which is to condition. Over time, conditioner washing exclusively can result in product buildup and will likely a shampoo depending on the solubility of the ingredients in your daily conditioners, moisturizers, and styling products that were used to maintain your styles between washes. Are you noticing that your hair is becoming drier no matter how much you co-wash? Check out Signs that Co-Washing is Not Enough. Due to the cleansing agent in the co-wash conditioner, it may take much longer to develop product buildup. According to Ouidad, their co-wash can be “used as often as desired.” When abiding by a healthy hair care regimen, I believe it would be beneficial for curlies and coilies who like to co-wash to cleanse with a sulfate-free shampoo every 4-8 weeks to prevent product buildup from forming on the hair, and more importantly the scalp.
Wrap up
As you can see there are benefits to using either formulation. Be careful to look at the ingredients in these two products. In this example, only the Ouidad Curl Co-Wash has an intentional cleansing agent within the formulation. The Ouidad Whipped Curls Daily Conditioner and Styling Primer on the other hand is chock-full of conditioning ingredients. Whichever route you choose to take, consider a product that fits with your lifestyle and works for your texture.
- Women who exercise frequently sweat profusely from their scalps and may want to use a product formulated with a cleansing agent.
- Short hairstyles have more freedom and flexibility due to frequent cutting than women who want to retain length.
- Be sure your choices fit within a holistic hair care regimen complete with suitable cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, styling, and trimming.
Do you prefer to co-wash with a daily conditioner or co-wash conditioner?
In order to keep our curls when straightening with heat tools, it is wise to take a critical look into two of today’s innovative technologies for heat styling: tourmaline and ceramic.
A Closer Look at Ceramic
Ceramic has an excellent reputation for high quality results by stylists and at-home users. It is a non-metallic, inorganic material that produces negative ions. It heats up quickly and distributes heat evenly. More expensive and higher quality ceramic irons are made of full ceramic plates. However, common ceramic flat irons are made of aluminum or titanium plates, coated with ceramic. While this still makes a high performance flat iron, prolonged use can cause the ceramic to wear away, exposing the non-ceramic plate, which could cause snagging, uneven heat distribution, and harsher heat. Folica.com reports that, “Ceramic diffuses heat and seals the hair cuticle for shiny, frizz-free locks.”
A Closer Look at Tourmaline
Tourmaline is the newest in heat style technology. It is a crystalline mineral that is produced organically and used to coat the plates of a flatiron. This precious-gemstone can produce six times more negative ions than ceramic. “It’s often infused into Ceramic and Titanium plates to produce even straighter, shinier results.”- Folica.com. Tourmaline outputs the most negative ions for the high levels of shine and smoothness. When the negative ions from the iron come in contact with the positive ions of dry hair, the result is a neutral charge, which lays the cuticle flat for glassy, frizz-free hair.
A Word from An Expert
“When you purchase a styling tool, you want to be sure it has healthier hair alternatives. Ceramic is an excellent choice for shine, protecting the hair from heat damage, and shielding against frizz. It does this through sealing moisture within the hair leaving a shiny finish. Tourmaline is a gem; it helps provide moisture also and enhances shine. Your hair will appear healthier, bolder, and sleeker. Tourmaline and ceramic both allow sealing of the cuticle so it looks more polished. They are great features to have and give multiple options for different markets.
If you have a dryer without ceramic or tourmaline, you are basically applying intense heat, which just dries the hair, taking away moisture. This is similar to how the sun dries, leaving the hair dull, dry and damaged. A titanium iron is different. It gets really hot and maintains consistent heat levels for even heat distribution. This type of iron is popular for Keratin Treatments.” -Jazmin Brunson, Associate Brand Manager of Exceon American Beauty Supply (the makers of SEDU”>.
What is best for you?
Assess your hair type. If your hair is damaged, fine, or if you are concerned about heat damage, you may want a ceramic flat iron infused with tourmaline. If your hair is extremely healthy and strong, with thick, coarse, curly hair, you have limitless choices. However, regardless of the flat iron you decide upon, prolonged or misuse can cause damage to your strands, so take all precautions when flat ironing. Regarding price, tourmaline alone is cheaper to produce than ceramic, but some of the best irons utilize both technologies so the prices range. Do choose an iron that fits your budget without compromising quality, and be sure to check the warranty!
We asked Sedu about the proper way to protect your hair from the heat and this is what they had to say:
“People who have curly hair should get a tourmaline or ceramic iron for added protection. You should also be sure to shampoo and condition before heat styling, which both provide nourishment into your hair. When using a heat tool, use an anti-frizz product to ward against frizz, UV rays, and heat. This will allow for using the least amount of heat. A great option is the newly released, Sedu Moisturizing Collection, complete with Shampoo, Conditioner, Thermal Primer and Anti-Frizz Polishing Treatment.”
Our hair deserves the careful analysis of styling tools and products. Each step in the straightening process is equally important and necessitates appropriate follow through. Starting with a thorough cleansing, conditioning, and heat preparation process, followed by cautious and controlled heat application. The New Cupuacu Anti-Frizz Smoothing Collection by Carol’s Daughter is a complete set of adequate protection for smooth yet healthy tresses.
So, which iron and product accompaniment will you use at your next flatiron session?
Know what you want
All hail the Yoda of weddings: Queen Pinterest! Now is your chance to have a guilt-free Pinterest fiasco. Spend a healthy measure of your creative energy on building a wedding board. Include photos of hairstyles that you love, bridesmaid gowns you adore, makeup, and venues that speak to you. The big day rests on your vision, so be thorough in your self-exploration and prepared to pitch your vision to your support team; this is the toughest most critical part of your process. Your vision is the launch pad for creating the wedding of your dreams.
Research your hairdresser
If you have a hairdresser that has been doing your hair since you were three years old and you know she can create the images you seek, book her! However, each stylist has his or her own unique niche and some specialize in wedding styles and others do not. Consider at least three stylists with great wedding reviews from your peers, or online sites like WeddingWire. When considering your wedding stylist, ask the following questions:
- Is there a portfolio of wedding photos I can review?
- Are there wedding packages or bridal specials?
- How often have you styled my hair texture?
Book early
When you begin to hear the answers that fit your vision and budget, book a consultation with your chosen stylist. Do not be fooled, the sooner you book, the better. According to Statistic Brain, there are over 2 million weddings per year, most of which are typically held on a weekend, which leaves little time to dilly-dally around with dates and times. Small towns could possibly get by with 3-6 months advanced booking, but larger cities tend to require more time for sought out hairdressers.
Schedule a consultation and trial
Both choices are highly recommended. Although it is essential to book a consultation, the trial is optional. Your consultation will give you the face-to-face interaction with the stylist. It can be easy to judge the credentials of a person online, but nothing beats in-person engagement. Remember to bring photos of your dress (or pin board”>, bridesmaid gowns, your veil, and other hair accessories. On the other hand, scheduling a bridal trial is effective for teaming up with the stylist to ensure you get your best look. Take photos of the styles she or he creates from every angle and bring a trusted friend along to help you debrief your experience thereafter. An experienced stylist can accomplish the job in one trial. While multiple trials are always an option, each usually requires additional fees.
Put it in writing
Consider putting everything in writing. A contract is a great way to communicate the details, leaving little room for forgetful human error. The contract should include a detailed description of the services, fees, booking dates, times, styling location, cancellation policies, and all expectations of the stylist and the bridal party, including expected hair preparation (usually clean and dry for styling”>. If the salon has their own contract, add your specified requirements in the notes or special provisions section of the contract.
Be open and honest
Be realistic with your expectations. Know that your stylist will work her magic, but she cannot perform magic; transforming you into something you are not. Instead, she should work with you on creating the best representation of you. Be open to suggestions and trust the expertise of experienced individuals while understanding that you have the final say. Be prepared to communicate your needs and desires in your own way.
With research and best practices, you will have the results you seek. Enjoy being the CEO of your big day!
