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In order to keep our curls when straightening with heat tools, it is wise to take a critical look into two of today’s innovative technologies for heat styling: tourmaline and ceramic.
A Closer Look at Ceramic
Ceramic has an excellent reputation for high quality results by stylists and at-home users. It is a non-metallic, inorganic material that produces negative ions. It heats up quickly and distributes heat evenly. More expensive and higher quality ceramic irons are made of full ceramic plates. However, common ceramic flat irons are made of aluminum or titanium plates, coated with ceramic. While this still makes a high performance flat iron, prolonged use can cause the ceramic to wear away, exposing the non-ceramic plate, which could cause snagging, uneven heat distribution, and harsher heat. Folica.com reports that, “Ceramic diffuses heat and seals the hair cuticle for shiny, frizz-free locks.”
A Closer Look at Tourmaline
Tourmaline is the newest in heat style technology. It is a crystalline mineral that is produced organically and used to coat the plates of a flatiron. This precious-gemstone can produce six times more negative ions than ceramic. “It’s often infused into Ceramic and Titanium plates to produce even straighter, shinier results.”- Folica.com. Tourmaline outputs the most negative ions for the high levels of shine and smoothness. When the negative ions from the iron come in contact with the positive ions of dry hair, the result is a neutral charge, which lays the cuticle flat for glassy, frizz-free hair.
A Word from An Expert
“When you purchase a styling tool, you want to be sure it has healthier hair alternatives. Ceramic is an excellent choice for shine, protecting the hair from heat damage, and shielding against frizz. It does this through sealing moisture within the hair leaving a shiny finish. Tourmaline is a gem; it helps provide moisture also and enhances shine. Your hair will appear healthier, bolder, and sleeker. Tourmaline and ceramic both allow sealing of the cuticle so it looks more polished. They are great features to have and give multiple options for different markets.
If you have a dryer without ceramic or tourmaline, you are basically applying intense heat, which just dries the hair, taking away moisture. This is similar to how the sun dries, leaving the hair dull, dry and damaged. A titanium iron is different. It gets really hot and maintains consistent heat levels for even heat distribution. This type of iron is popular for Keratin Treatments.” -Jazmin Brunson, Associate Brand Manager of Exceon American Beauty Supply (the makers of SEDU”>.
What is best for you?
Assess your hair type. If your hair is damaged, fine, or if you are concerned about heat damage, you may want a ceramic flat iron infused with tourmaline. If your hair is extremely healthy and strong, with thick, coarse, curly hair, you have limitless choices. However, regardless of the flat iron you decide upon, prolonged or misuse can cause damage to your strands, so take all precautions when flat ironing. Regarding price, tourmaline alone is cheaper to produce than ceramic, but some of the best irons utilize both technologies so the prices range. Do choose an iron that fits your budget without compromising quality, and be sure to check the warranty!
We asked Sedu about the proper way to protect your hair from the heat and this is what they had to say:
“People who have curly hair should get a tourmaline or ceramic iron for added protection. You should also be sure to shampoo and condition before heat styling, which both provide nourishment into your hair. When using a heat tool, use an anti-frizz product to ward against frizz, UV rays, and heat. This will allow for using the least amount of heat. A great option is the newly released, Sedu Moisturizing Collection, complete with Shampoo, Conditioner, Thermal Primer and Anti-Frizz Polishing Treatment.”
Our hair deserves the careful analysis of styling tools and products. Each step in the straightening process is equally important and necessitates appropriate follow through. Starting with a thorough cleansing, conditioning, and heat preparation process, followed by cautious and controlled heat application. The New Cupuacu Anti-Frizz Smoothing Collection by Carol’s Daughter is a complete set of adequate protection for smooth yet healthy tresses.
So, which iron and product accompaniment will you use at your next flatiron session?
We want our products to move moons, furniture, and mountains and many product lines claim they can do just that and more. So, we naturally expect the bottled creams to grow our bald edges, thicken our fine strands, and double our hair growth to name a few. Soon we will expect our products to trim and reshape our curls, forget a haircut! While products can do almost anything, the key word is almost. Have you wondered whether it’s the product and technique responsible for the end result? Here is a list of what products can and cannot do.
Products Cannot…
- Grow full, rich locks from bald, bruised or non-existing hair follicles around your edges
- Transform you or me into Mahogany Curls
- Revert curls from scorching heat damage
- Alter your texture without chemicals
- Extend the life of style any longer than the appropriate time frame (because roots still grow about .25-.5 in per month”>
Products Can…
- Volumize by giving the appearance of thicker hair through swelling strands, lifting the roots, or separating strands
- Glossify through nutrient-rich conditioning, enhance natural shine, or provide light-reflecting shine
- Moisturize and strengthen as hair is fortified though your diet before it sprouts from the scalp. Topical treatments will help keep it hydrated and strong, which results in longer hair.
- Hold through styling aids containing polymers that keep the hair in place through connecting and coating the hair strands
- Stimulate blood flow through products, vitamins or diet, which can have an effect on growth
Technique Can…
Techniques will make or break the effectiveness of your product. What would happen if you bought a styler, but incorrectly used it as a daily leave-in treatment? You might not see the intended results of that product. In fact, you might even cause some damage to your sweet, innocent curls. Instead, first read the label and try the recommended techniques given to you by the product company. From there you could consult a trusted stylist or connect with your curly community to make sure you have matched the correct product with the correct technique.
Wrap Up
Monique Rodriguez, creator and owner of Mielle Organics, sums it up saying, “Both product selection and technique are equally important. You can’t have good technique, but use bad products correspondingly you cannot use bad products and have good technique. Personally, when I started using natural ingredients in my hair I noticed an overall difference on the strength and growth of my hair. I continued using my current techniques yet, I noticed a difference in my hair tremendously. I believe you cannot have one without the other.”
We want to hear your opinion and testimony. What is your product versus technique experience?
Many of us do not have the full steam houses they enjoyed in ancient days, but the market provides at-home steamers such as the Huetiful Steamer, the Q-Redew, and many others. Some have even opted to use their bath and shower rooms for steaming. The benefits of steam for your hair and scalp are rich and plenty. Hairfinder explains it this way, “Probably the greatest benefit of steam for most people is the tendency of steam baths to open the pores of the skin and allow free flow of sebum and clearing of the ducts and glands in the skin. Since the scalp is made of skin with hair follicles growing from it, steam can help to alleviate common scalp issues, such as dryness and flaking, and excessive-oil production. The warmth and moisture help stimulate circulation and flush out toxins from the skin.”
These benefits are too good to pass up. We know that impurities in our system could lead to scalp conditions like dandruff or psoriasis, so regulation of sebum is highly important. As is increased blood flow, a major contributor to hair growth. Let us not fail to mention the enhanced deep conditioning that occurs through the gentleness of steam compared to direct heat methods like your hair dryer. Performed correctly, these steam treatments are wonderful for all hair types. They are especially nourishing to low-porosity hair. Those with higher porosity strands will benefit greatly, but will want to steam treat less frequently to prevent the hair from rapid swelling. Always remember to rinse your hair with cool water after steam therapy in order to lock in moisture and reflect shine.
Three Ways to Steam Your Hair
- Steam room: Found in high-end luxury establishments like fitness clubs or day spas, which pamper your body from head to toe. Specialty locations may incorporate essential oils for added benefits.
- Portable steamer: These can be found online or in local beauty stores, typically for the hair and face. This type will provide direct steam to your desired areas for acute treatment.
- Personal bath or shower room: Your own bathroom could be your steam room by placing a towel beneath your door as a means of restricting heat from escaping and a plastic cap over your head while the shower or bath is running.
What are you willing to invest?
The steam room at a day spa would be the most expensive option, yet includes full relaxation. A portable steamer could run you $70-$200, and you would have multiple uses. Your personal bathroom appears to include no cost at all, but could affect your water usage if you complete the recommended steam time of 30-45 min.
What level of conditioning and detoxifying do you need?
A portable steamer would provide an intentional treatment, directly to your hair and scalp. The day spa steam room and bathroom options would provide a gentle treatment and affect your entire body.
Take Away
All methods benefit your hair and your scalp, so the choice is yours. What method is best for your current hair needs, budget, and schedule?
I have been through blow dryer after blow dryer and longed for a dryer that fulfills all of my needs. When we were children, we used the tried-and-true Gold ‘N Hot handheld blow-dryer with the comb and brush attachments, which was perfect. My sisters, cousins, and I wore relaxers and our dryers did the trick of blowing out our coily roots before we flat ironed our hair. Sometimes we didn’t even need to iron it, imagine that!
However, when I became a professional stylist, I had experience with multiple commercial blow-dryers. Several of which were great stylers, but I used them so often on clients that I found myself replacing them every four months. In 2012, I went through four blow-dryers. In 2013, I went through three! I knew I couldn’t keep this up. So I pursued a “professional grade” blow-dryer. Most professional dryers are of high quality with high wattage, multiple heat settings, better longevity, and have better warranty options. Unfortunately, this was no small task.
A Word on Blow-Dryers
Different blow-drying techniques call for different tools to achieve different outcomes. For round brushing, I found the Babyliss Pro and the Solano to quietly and successfully perform at high levels for the voluminous blowout that clients want while protecting the integrity of the hair. However, I still needed something more. These dryers met the need of many textures within my clientele, but my ethnic curlies had an unmet need that only a comb attachment could fill. I found myself back on the market for a dryer with a comb attachment! When I found one of professional standards, a different problem arose. While the air blew hot and strong, the comb attachment was thin, therefore inhibiting the hot air, shooting it back up the nozzle, which was damaging the fan. I was also disposing of blow-dryer combs like candy so I laid low on dryer shopping until I noticed the Moroccanoil Tourmalite Ceramic Hair Dryer. Because this is a professional grade blow-dryer, the price tag is higher than your commercial dryer at $12o.50. But when you go through four blow dryers a year the investment starts to make sense. It comes with three attachments: speed dry nozzle, curl defining diffuser, and you guessed it, straightening comb attachment!
I was elated! I knew the popularity of the Moroccanoil brand, so I gave it a whirl and to my pleasant surprise, the comb attachment was strong and wide toothed, which is better for detangling. I found it to preserve shine and increased drying time, which is healthier for the hair. My experience with this dryer produced favorable results. I love the strong airflow, range of heat options, cool switch, attachments, and its design!
Moroccanoil Expert Opinion
The Pura Vida Salon and Spa in Abilene, TX is a Moroccanoil Salon whose stylists use the Moroccan blow-dryers on their diverse clientele. Let’s see what the experts have to say:
“I like that it is workable among multi-ethnic hair types. I also like the weight of the dryer, although it felt very light at first, like a toy. It puts out great velocity of air and works well with the brand name brushes.” –Julie Hall, Master Designer.
“The dryer has the ion feature that dries the hair faster and also leaves the hair shiny and smoother. I love it!” -Cindy Seabourn, Manager and Master Designer.
“I love it! It can get hot, so I love the adjustable heat. The lightweight design helps prevent fatigue caused from drying clients’ hair throughout the day. The heat helps lock in styles such as big curls or loose movement created with round brushing. The comb attachment helps detangle the hair also which aids in less drying time.” -Steven Stewart, Senior Designer and Salon Designated Moroccan Educator.
“It’s lighter than the dryer I was previously using, and it gives a different result. It’s a smoother finish.” –Reagan Bustamante Designer
“A must have stylist tool. The ergonomics are awesome for stylists that stand behind a chair for eight hours or more per day. The air flow and heat are perfect when paired with the Moroccanoil products and the right brushes you get beautiful blowouts on the most massive or unruly hair.” -Marco Morales, Designer
“Super light weight, dries faster at a slower and quieter speed. It’s awesome.” -Toby Vernay, Master Designer and Director of Education
If you are looking for a professional grade dryer, I think you just found her!
What are your deciding factors for a blow-dryer? Chime in with your ultimate blow-dryer needs.
Sealing vs. LOC
Well when the practice of sealing came around, I was a freshman in the University of Natural Hair who was a bit of a rebellious student, so I wasn’t buying it. Since then the concept has produced much debate amongst the community of naturals and stylists. Some have questioned whether you can truly seal the cuticle and some have opted for the term locking in moisture, coined from the L.O.C Method of moisturizing. I decided to observe this trend.
Some have questioned whether you can truly seal the cuticle and some have opted for ‘locking in’ moisture.
Overtime I learned that we were really onto something when we stumbled upon this concept. Relaxers break the hydrogen bonds between the keratin proteins that make up the hair, resulting in a desperate need for strengthening and moisturizing. Now that we are natural, our protein bonds are in tact, but our curls and coils still crave hydration.
As we know, the hair is made up of cuticles. I like how blogger Chicoro from Beautify Bit by Bit explains the hair shaft: “The cuticles on the hair strand operate like a vent. Cuticles lift naturally from certain products such as with soaps and surfactants. Cuticles are then lowered from the perfect balanced vinegar rinse and other conditioning types of rinses. When you have finished washing and conditioning your hair, ideally, you want to have cuticles that are lowered and closed tightly over the hair strand.”
With this understanding we recognize that as the hair dries, moisture is lost. Applying a moisturizer followed by a sealer, which functions as a barrier, has proven to be effective for moisture retention. Here is a typical recipe for sealing your hair.
Hair Sealant Recipe
- Mist hair with water or start on freshly washed hair
- Apply a water-based leave-in conditioner or cream conditioner
- Coat strands with an oil or butter
Now here is where the question arises:
Must you seal the hair with oil if you use a moisturizer formulated with oil?
In seeking this answer, we consulted Will Williams, the director of education and product development with M & M Products Company. Williams created one of the few retail product sealers called Sofn’Free Nothing But Curl Sealer. Williams directly answers the probing question: “Yes, you must seal the hair with oil, as you will not know the percentage of oil in the moisturizer. You should cleanse, condition, apply leave-in conditioner, and then begin the styling process with a sealer, which delays (not eliminates”> the evaporation of moisture from your hair.”
Williams further explains the need to choose an appropriate sealer, one that will not suffocate the cuticle, attract dirt and debris, or deteriorate the hair such as synthetic and highly processed products, but rather choose a sealer that will have a “proper exchange between the environment and hair.” Otherwise, you will not be able to continually add moisture into the hair and will need to cleanse your hair to remove the suffocating oil, in order to rehydrate. Williams recommends moisturizing and sealing often with a light oil such as argan oil or sweet almond oil.
Having assessed this additional information, it is clear that cleansing, deep conditioning, and applying a leave-in conditioner are effective. It is also clear that “locking” or “sealing” in moisture with oil is effective. How often you moisturize and seal, what product you choose, and which specific moisture method you decide to use will be based on your individual hair needs. Start with getting to know your unique strands. Conduct a porosity test to determine if your hair loses moisture at a rapid rate (high porosity“>, at an extremely slow rate (low porosity“>, or somewhere in between (normal porosity“>. From there, determine what is best for you, whether it be a moisturizer formulated with oils, the L.O.C method, a pure oil, or utilizing a retail sealer.
Do you have a preferred sealing method? Chime in with your conclusions!
