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Do they all mean the same thing? Do certain labels imply its purpose? These three terms imply that an intense interaction is occurring between the chosen product and your hair.  Looking closely at each name or label, gives a glimpse of their potential meanings.

• Masque/Mask – a varied spelling of the word “mask” essentially means to cover, hide or conceal a thing. A costume mask, cosmetic skin facial mask, for example. –
• Treatment –  an application of remedies, or an intervention for a matter. Such as treatment for an addiction or other medical treatment.
• Deep Conditioner – a substance or cosmetic, applied to something to improve its condition.

When referencing the hair, you could infer that a hair masque conceals damage, weakness, and other inconsistencies regarding the integrity of the hair. A treatment implies the presence of a problem; the treatment therefore acts as the solution or intermediary. The definition for deep conditioner improves the current condition of the hair.

Based on defining the words, there are key similarities and a few differences between the different meanings. If product companies stayed true to the meaning of the words, each formula would indeed be at least a little different. Checking in with a leading product developing corporation, Mansfield King, Tim Lehman explains the development process:

“The difference in these formulas (deep conditioner, treatment, masque”> differs from brand to brand.  At Mansfield King, we utilize a customized approach for each item we create. For a reparative formula with long lasting effects requires us to come up with unique formula that meets the specified desires of the company owner. Therefore each formula is created intentionally. We have a unique perspective in that we understand that we’re not just making products. I can sum it up in this way: It’s not the equivalent of cancer therapy, but it impacts people’s intricate lives, changing people’s perception of beauty and personal experience.”

So whether or not we understand the true meaning of these words, does not guarantee the product companies agree on the given definitions and the results are virtually up to their discretion. It is however in the companies’ best interest to label or market their product based on what results the product will deliver. High performing companies are well aware of this. With that in mind, here are some examples from each genre. Consider these unique qualities and features when deciding which is for you.

Camille Rose Naturals Algae Deep Conditioner

Deep Conditioner– Typical formulas are water based and enriched with fatty alcohols, vitamins, and other nourishing elements.  The results of a deep conditioner are longer-lasting than a regular conditioner and can typically be used no more than once every 4-7 days.

Claim: Hand-mixed with amazing blue green algae, which is rich in vitamin B and helps to improve hair cell regrowth, resulting in thicker, stronger, longer hair. Plus, it will soften and moisturize dry, moisture-craving hair giving it the care and love it needs to have body and shine, naturally.

Carol’s Daughter Marula Mask

Mask– A hair mask is typically ultra-conditioning. Its consistency is generally much thicker than a deep conditioner and is typically instructed to be left on the hair for 15-30 minutes.

Claim: We love when our curls bounce, shine, and flow freely, but they get a bad reputation when they start misbehaving, naturally becoming dry, hard, and unmanageable. Take control and train them to spiral into perfection, staying soft, manageable, and easy to define. Give them the extra moisture they need with this rejuvenating Hair Mask that’s packed with marula—a rich oil harvested for 12,000 years in Madagascar that instantly restores and softens your curls. Finally, you can truly let go and let curls flow.

Ouidad 12 minute Deep Treatment Intensive Repair

Treatment– This the widely used term in professional product lines and is typically used to infer a high quality product with exotic, high caliber ingredients with stellar results. Often used when severe damage is present and is often used in products that affect issues of the scalp and innermost parts of the hair fiber.

Claim: Effectively penetrates hair to bond with the cuticle, leaving hair revived and restructured for enhanced performance. The must-have product for all hair types! With 21 amino acids, deep treatment is like food for hair—you have to eat to survive and so does your hair. It’s packed with both moisturizing and restructuring proteins that go into the hair shaft and rebuild the internal molecular layer, allowing hair to regain its own internal weight and replenish moisture. Your curls will be softer, healthier, and more manageable. Deep Treatment is also a great color preserver and will help your haircut to last longer.

According to Rachel Newman, account executive with Moroccan Oil, creator of the Moroccan Oil masks, says,” Depending on the purpose of the deep conditioner, mask or treatment it is possible that they can do the same thing. They all provide nourishment, but it is usually labeled according to the degree of that particular remedy.”

Conclusion

All of these labeled products claim to make your hair better than when you started.  However, choose the best one for you to prevent further damage to your current issue.  Before making a choice on which is for you, take a look at your current need and match it with the product label details that are speaking the language of your current hair challenge.

Do you notice a difference? Which one are you more inclined to purchase?

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That moment just before the scissors make contact with your satin strands can trigger tons of questions. Has this stylist ever worked with my hair type? How much will he or she cut? Then, you frantically try to remember that epic YouTube video that promised to teach you everything you need to know about your haircut, but you cannot remember the tips! As your mind wanders, eventually you will arrive at this question. Wet or dry cutting, which is more damaging or more appropriate for my needs? Before you sit in the next salon chair, take the time to explore a wide spectrum of answers to this question.

Start with Your Purpose

Knowing why you want your hair cut is the best place to begin. Most people cut their hair for one of these reasons:

• Change the shape or movement of the hair
• Remove damaged ends
• Maintain their current haircut

So where does wet or dry cutting come in? Why do some stylists have one preference over the other? Let’s check in with some highly respected professionals to get a thorough understanding.

Dry Cutting

Cutting hair dry, regardless of the texture, allows the stylist to see the hair as the client styles themselves on a regular basis. Cutting the hair dry allows the stylist and the client to see the hair take shape as it is being cut rather than waiting until after the blowout to see the end result. Most known for their dry curly cuts is the Devachan Salon, the creator of the DevaCut- curly hair cutting technique. Vice President of Education Molly Owen helps us to understand why they cut hair dry:

“There are considerable differences- and enormous benefits- of cutting curly hair dry in its natural state. Individual curl behavior, including shape and spring, is much more visible when hair is dry. Cutting wet hair robs a stylist of this important reality. Cutting dry allows the stylist to create shape while customizing for the individual in the chair and each individual curl on the head!” – Molly Owen, VP of Education for DevaCurl.

Wet Cutting

Wet cutting allows the hair to show its true colors. You know, it is like that moment when you straighten your textured hair and then the rain brings a torrential downpour. The rain gives away your hair’s true nature. With wet hair you can see the varying textures and unique qualities. Stylists choose to cut hair wet for a variety of beneficial reasons. Wet cutting can allow the stylist to see how the hair naturally behaves, and depending on the hair type, wet cutting allows the stylists to have better control of the hair. Toby Vernay, director of education of Pura Vida Salon and Spa, makes the differences clear:

“Both wet cutting and dry cutting techniques have a place and purpose in shaping hair. Both can be and are beneficial. Neither are damaging to the hair if properly executed. Either technique can be used on the same shape, depending on the coarseness and density of the hair. Cutting dry allows the hair to be in its true form, thus allowing the cutter to judge the shape better. Cutting while wet allows the hair to stretch and bend which can distort the shape in the finished style. Of course a well-versed haircutter will know how to avoid this undesirable result and be able to utilize wet cutting to its full potential. One important note is that when texturizing a shape with texturizing shears, wet texturizing takes out more hair, while dry texturizing takes out less. Some hair cutters prefer one or the other, but I believe that to be a matter of style rather than function. I personally prefer a combination of both techniques on each shape that I cut.”

The Wrap Up

The best choice for you has everything to do with the unique hair type of the client as well as the desired outcome of the haircut. Remember to have a detailed consultation with your stylist to communicate your needs and allow them to convey their recommendations. From there the decision is yours!

Have you received a wet or dry cut on your curly hair?

There was a time when the American beauty shop/salon was a place for women to meet and socialize. It was a place to catch up on the gossip, but also a place to seek important information. The African-American beauty shop was sacred, the place where the magic happened. Community leaders and politicians often sought support from local stylists. They knew that beauty shop conversations were pivotal to influencing popular opinion. Regardless of the culture, beauty shops have been essential parts of the community and have been respected for generations.  

The Salon’s Place in Culture

The history of the beauty salon will always hold a high significance. Even today when we step into a beauty salon (based on the salon”> we feel at home, safe, and have sense of peace. However, these lovely feelings are not consistent for every salon you enter, and in the past decade or so women have spoken out about it, which has caused shifts in the common view of professional stylists. Some licensed stylists are incapable of servicing their clientele due to inadequate education, training, and experience.

The Negative Connotation

This has shed a negative light on the industry as a whole. Horror stories have surfaced about women going into a salon and waiting hours before services are rendered. You often hear of horrendous hair color gone wrong, curly hair controversy, and edges under siege by braiding salons. Despite the negative realities of the industry, plenty of salons and spas have produced favorable results to consumers and continue to provide a luxurious experience with functional outcomes. The truth is, this industry is not simply about lavish living and physical indulgence. It is also about maintenance and manageability. The beauty industry, particularly salons and stylists, are statistically valued by Americans. It is evident in their survival of the recent recession. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, “Overall employment of barbers, hairdressers, and cosmetologists is projected to grow 13 percent from 2012 to 2022.” The hair care industry has stood strong through the recession and shows no signs of slow growth for the future.

However, the shift in the trusted, professional image of the cosmetologist is being challenged. Some major concerns about professional cosmetologists are poor customer service and results, which makes a definitive impact on every industry. As told professional speaker on customer service Steph Hyken says, “In a positive economy, 70% of Americans are willing to spend an average of 13% more with companies they believe provide excellent customer service. 78% of consumers have bailed on a transaction or not made an intended purchase because of poor customer service.”

Enter the YouTube Guru

On the other hand, the onset of YouTube has made many women resort to their computer for self-taught healthy hairdressing. The hair tutorials on YouTube are growing exponentially, at a parallel shift in the cosmetologist industry. When the natural hair movement gained momentum, most colleges of cosmetology did not teach curly hair care. Therefore, in some communities the clients were at a loss and were forced to choose online education. As we have come to increase our respect for the YouTube Gurus for haircare, it is important to remember that there are times when a professional opinion is essential to care for certain hair and scalp challenges.

Tamika Fletcher, expert in curly hair care, advocate of the DIY lifestyle, and cofounder of Natural Resources Salon, gives insight to this matter: “In some cases, professional training and experience is no competition for popularity. I love that we are sharing so much information freely and I am excited to see people taking charge of their beauty at home, but professional advice is still important for hair care. Both are needed, we just need to know where to go for solutions. Sometimes searching for answers online for a scalp or thinning hair issue will cost you valuable time.”

So do we still think professional stylists are devalued? Maybe, maybe not. The answer is relative. There are needs for online education and professional consultations. Beauty professionals must continue to educate themselves and provide a high quality service and a favorable experience. However, when a client is beyond their reach they should forward their concerns onto another’s expertise and the same applies for bloggers and vloggers. But most importantly, the consumers must educate themselves on what is best for them. Scalp concerns or thinning hair are concerns that should advised by a trichologist or dermatologist. The trimming of the ends, and/or deep formulated conditioning treatments should arguably be left to a licensed beautician. Be sure to do your research when choosing a professional. Seek reviews and word of mouth testimonies to endorse your selection.

The beauty industry is vast, and with the change of the times it includes DIY bloggers and vloggers along with the licensed cosmetologists. The truth is that we are all on the same side, with the mission to help people maintain their image while making them feel valued. Therefore, as we foresee clients that fall through the cracks, we should all commit to referring the consumer to the correct professionals. Our collective efforts will communicate what high value should be placed on every facet of this growing industry.

So what do you think, can the entire beauty industry find a way to work together?

Women with curly hair should be discerning of the products used on their hair. Considering that the nature of curly hair tends to be drier, every new cosmetic trend may not be suitable for the health of the hair. Two-in-one shampoo-conditioning duos hit the market in the 80s. Consumers went wild, as they were able to save not only time but money also! Can you imagine having a one step process of cleansing and conditioning rather than cleanse, condition, and then rinse? Consumers spend between $6-$52 on shampoo and conditioners combined, which can last anywhere from 1 month-3 months depending on your cleansing/conditioning practices. You save 50% when using a shampoo-conditioning duo and save half the time! However, we do know that there are multiple sides to every new invention. As a curly girl your gut reaction may be to scoff at the thought of getting enough moisture from a 2-in-1, but it really depends on your hair. Let’s assess this formulation to see the benefits and drawbacks when used on curly hair.

Nature of Curly Hair

Like straight hair, curly hair is also made up of keratin protein composed of long chains of amino acids. The complex bundle of protein, fatty acids, and water molecules make up the hair strand coated with protective cuticle layers to guard the inner workings from external stimuli. However, curly hair differs in the shape of its hair follicle, which could be oval or oblong for example. YouBeauty says that curly hair could also grow from the follicle at unique angles when compared to straight hair. Finally curly hair follows narrow to wide spiral patterns that make up an individual’s curl pattern. At each twist and turn in the curl pattern lies what Pantene would call a high spot or the critical point of each curvature that leaves the cuticle slightly raised. According to Pantene’s Curly Hair Science review, “When the cuticles are lifted, the internal structure becomes exposed, leaving the hair weak.” This explains then need for extra conditioning and TLC when handling curly hair. 

2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioners

Traditional shampoo formulas have hydrophobic cleansing agents or surfactants that bind to the dirt and oil on the hair. They also have a hydrophilic portion that allows the oil to be swept away with the water. Traditional conditioning formulas are known to have cationic charge, a positive charge that attracts to the negative charge of the hair. This allows conditioning elements to attract and bind to the hair. 2-in-1 shampoo-conditioner duos have both of these elements in one bottle. Robert Lochhead, a pioneer in this arena, provides key insight in understandable terms: “In a 2-in-1 product, the catatonic surfactants remain suspended in all the suds while the shampoo is working to break down oils and dirt. Then, when you rinse the shampoo out, the surfactants are ‘triggered’ by the water to bind to the hair, while only the dirt and oil washes away.” Common ingredients to make this process effective are softening silicones like dimethicone and polymers like polyquaternium-10.

Do they work for your curl pattern?

The concern for curly hair lies in the ability of the 2-in-1 shampoo-conditioner duo to effectively condition your hair to the degree that your hair needs. Perfectly healthy hair with little to no damage could most likely handle this formula. Fine, damaged, or struggling hair is likely to not respond well to this formula as their main supply of nutrients for the hair. Finally, the ingredients that cause the conditioning agents to bind with the hair have also been known to create a buildup on the hair shaft. Here is a way to look at how this formula will affect you.

• Coily– If your hair has a lot of twists and turns or opportunities of weak points within the cuticle layers, then you need an ultra conditioning formula that the 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioning duo most likely cannot do.
• Curly– Still a type with many twists and turns, you will need to analyze your hair’s texture to see its level of conditioning needs. However buildup would be a problem for curly hair, as it can temporarily disrupt the movement of the hair.
• Wavy– A looser texture means more moisture retention so the level of conditioning in a 2-in-1 conditioning duo might be a great fit! Unfortunately this hair type is very effected by buildup on the hair shaft and would require frequent clarifying shampoos.

Closing

Cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson says that 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioning duo may get you through on a vacation or other brief period of life may be ok for your hair. However, it may not be your bread and butter formula for optimal curly hair care. For best results, look for a shampoo with an accompanying conditioning formula that specifically addresses your hair care needs.

Do you use any 2-in-1 cleansing and conditioning products?

Fatty acids have nothing to do with the dreadful love handles and saddle bags we associate with fat, instead they are made of good fats and are significant for a healthy functioning body. They are produced when fats are broken down. Fatty acids, from the family of non-water soluble liquids along with other members of the lipid group including sterols, phospholipids, triglycerides, and waxes, can provide energy to your cells and aid in digestion, among many other things. The fatty acids they produce may be monounsaturated, polyunsaturated, or saturated. Fatty acids are made from carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. 

What does this have to do with your hair?

We know that a healthy body is the precursor to healthy hair. Fatty acids, in conjunction with other essential wellness elements, work together to build and sustain a healthy body, the precursor to healthy hair. Therefore, consuming fatty acids help to form the building blocks for strong hair as it grows. Through hair care products, fatty acids are applied topically to support the hair and the products as stabilizers, surfactants, emulsifiers, and opacifying agents.

• Emulsifiers are used for combining two different fluids into an emulsion to make a dissolved mixture.
• A stabilizer improves and helps to maintain the stability and shelf life of dispersions.
• Opacifying agents reduce the clear or transparent appearance of cosmetic products, according to Cosmetic Info.
• Surfactant cleansing agents like stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic clean skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away, according to Cosmetic Info.

Where are they found?

Some are produced through the body and others like Omega-3 and Omega-6 must be derived through outside sources like fish, flaxseed , or walnuts, as they are not naturally produced by our bodies the way Omega-9 is. Fatty acids are found in oils and other fats from different foods. They are an important part of a healthy diet because the body needs them for several purposes. They help move oxygen through the bloodstream to all parts of the body, aid in cell strength, function, and development, and are necessary for the support of strong organs and tissues. The body could not function without them. Externally they keep the skin healthy and moisturized. Internally they help with digestion and metabolism and support healthy weight loss. Another important function of fatty acids is its role in hormone production and the regulation of blood pressure, blood clotting, inflammation, and immune response in the body.

Of course too much of a good thing can have side effects; high levels of fatty acids can cause problems. “The dysfunctional immune response to excessive omega-3 fatty acid consumption can affect the body’s ability to fight microbial pathogens, like bacteria,” says Associate Professor Norman Hord at OSU’s College of Public Health and Human Sciences. However, research is still in development. He further explains, “As is all true with any nutrient, taking too much can have negative effects. We need to establish clear biomarkers through clinical trials. This is necessary in order for us to know who is eating adequate amounts of these nutrients and who may be deficient or eating too much.”

Both cosmetics companies and consumers are pleased with the benefits of fatty acids for the hair and body. Internally they nourish our bodies from the inside out to produce beautiful hair and skin alike. Topically they support product development by facilitating an appropriate appearance of products, dissolving emulsions to prevent separation, and protect our products from bacterial and fungal growth.

The most popular fatty acid derivatives are:

• hard animal fats
• fish
• coconut oil
• palm kernel
• sesame
• soybean
• sunflower
• corn
• cottonseed
• olive

Feed your body inside and out with fatty acids and let your hair reflect the many enhancements.

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References

http://www.tdx.cat/bitstream/handle/10803/8595/10.pdf?sequence=13

Can you guess what the first ingredient in most hair products is? Water! Sometimes it shows up as purified water or distilled water. Other times you may see coconut water or deionized water. What is the difference with all of these kinds of water and how does this relate to the hard water/soft water’s effect on hair?

Can you guess what the first ingredient in most hair products is? Water!

If you have considered these questions in relation to your own personal hair care regimen, you have come to the right place. Let’s dive in!

Reading the labels

In the cosmetic industry there are certain guidelines that must be followed to keep communication clear between brands and consumers. It is a requirement to use the common names of ingredients. For example, an appropriate label would be fragrance rather than parfum. Other alternatives will not be accepted as substitutes. However, “FDA does not object to their use in parentheses following the common name in English or the official language for that region. For examples, water (aqua”>, honey (mel”>, or sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis“> oil.”

In other words “water is water,” but if a product company has gone to greater lengths to disclose specific details about what type of water it contains, they must believe it to be beneficial to the consumer regarding its topical effect or its marketing effect. Therefore it is worth taking a closer look at their benefits.

Distilled water

This process uses evaporation and condensation techniques to remove impurities. When distilled correctly, the water should contain only oxygen and hydrogen molecules, have a pH level of 7, and contain no other minerals, contaminants, or gases. According to Ehow, distilled water is considered purer than deionized water.

Deionized water

Deionized literally means to remove ions from a solution using an ion-exchange process. These ions include such things as copper, calcium, sodium, bromide, and other minerals. Ehow says that water is placed in a negatively charged resin. The resin attracts minerals, removing them from the water. The use of this water is vast. Common uses include medicine, making electronics, and other manufactured products. Although the water has been purified, it does not have any affect upon bacteria or other viruses.

Purified water

A very broad term that consumers often interpret as the purest form of water. Purified water denotes a process by which contaminants and minerals have been removed from a source of water. Tap water for example is considered purified, as it has gone through a water treatment process.

Coconut water

While the benefits of coconut oil and water on the hair are staggering, there is limited research that substantiates coconut water being a preferred water contributor to a hair product. In fact, you typically see another form of water in conjunction with coconut water in common cosmetic products. Nonetheless coconut’s benefits include taming frizz, increasing blood circulation, promoting hair growth, and relief of infection and fungal infections.

Hard water

Hard water is water with high mineral content that over time will leave traces of film on the hair; similar to calcium deposits left on a showerhead, resulting in dry, brittle, heavy hair. Soft water on the other hand has fewer minerals but can leave the hair feeling mushy and flat.

Why does it matter?

Hair holds a negative charge

Hard metal ions found in water are positively charged. Positive and negative charges are attracted to one another. Therefore the hard water’s metal ions will attach itself to the most negative charged areas of the hair, which happens to be the damaged areas. This will affect your shampoo and conditioning treatments, as the minerals in the water will create a barrier between the hair and the product. For this reason product companies have tried to add purer forms of water to their products to prevent this effect.

Cosmetic chemists have your back

But there is one thing we must not forget. If your shampoo is made up of one of the purified forms of water, yet the water in your home is mineralized, then that soft water-based product will not do as much good. Cosmetic chemists know the perils of soft and hard water. Many have taken the consumers’ home water source into account while making a product that can perform well regardless of the water’s purity. 

Take it from Thomas Lehman, a representative of Mansfield-King Manufacturing. “From a cosmetic chemist perspective, our water is bottled water quality. We do that at Mansfield because ‘bottled water’ tends to produce consistent and predictable results. If we were to add something of ‘higher purity’, to make a ‘better product,’ we need to make sure the water will not impact the performance once it leaves us. Our products are consistent from batch to batch.”

Before you buy a water treatment kit…

Before running to Home Depot to purchase that expensive water treatment kit for your entire home, it may be best to go with a product that works well with your hair, in your unique environment, as your geographic location determines the mineral content in your water. Companies that formulate quality products will keep in mind the types of water the average consumer has within their home and will tailor the products around that.

Expert recommendation

According to Lehman, there is a time to look closer at your water sources. “If you are around hard water every now and then, it will not have a major impact on your hair, but consistent use over a long period of time will make an impact. It can make your hair feel dry. Therefore if you have a consistent challenge within your beauty care regimen and have done all you can to remedy the problem, a need for softer water may be something you can look into.”

The natural and curly hair movement has been sensational for 20-something and 30-something women who grew up with relaxers and then decided to ditch that mainstream trend. These women, who are now raising young children, are teaching their little ones to do the same thing: to embrace their natural textures and be proud of their own unique look. But among the many familiar YouTube faces you may have noticed, someone’s missing. 

Slowly but surely women of all ages, including women over the age of 50, are embracing the the movement. We tend to think they should be more experienced than others with wearing natural hair, since most of them have worn their natural hair before. Perhaps this is the reason that the product companies tend to market heavily to the younger demographic. However, many women over 50 are the true rookies within this natural process and need just as much support.

You see, the journey to natural for women over 50 is different for women in their 40s and younger. These women, born in the 1960s, arrived when the hair straightening trends were at an all-time high.

A Brief History

• Hot combs, also known as “pressing combs,” are created by the French in 1845 and arrive in America in 1880. –Refinery29 
• In the 1950s and prior, the press and curl was popular, developed by Madame CJ Walker. Relaxers were first introduced by the G.A Morgan Hair Refining Company in 1913. –eHow
• While most women wore relaxers and press and curls, the 1970s marks the onset of a small group activists, like Angela Davis and Pam Grier, who challenged the straight hair trend by embracing the controversial afro (style, not texture”>.
• The “natural” began to catch a little fire, until its rise was interrupted by the Jheri Curl, which was introduced in 1977.
• During the 80’s and the 90’s, West African traditional hairstyles began to resurface in the black community. Many people were getting braids with the traditional West African patterns. – The African American Registry

It was not until 2000 that you started to see the natural trends very slowly start to take shape. This demographic of women was well into their professional careers and many would not dare to attempt such a drastic change at the height of their career climb. So, they continued to wear their relaxers consistently. After decades and many iterations of natural hair trends, we arrive at the present day. Fifty year old women and older are currently facing the challenge of deciding whether to return to wearing one’s natural hair. For many the choice is not their own, as age can sometimes bring about drastic changes in hair type. For others the choice is theirs to make.   

Regardless of how you have arrived at this crossroad, here are a few tips for women fifty and above, shared by women fifty and above.

Enjoy it and be patient

Enjoy it and be patient. You have had chemicals for years, so think in terms of years, not months. Have an idea of what style you want. I had no clue and I am just now figuring out what I want. You will need a lot of self-confidence. Know why you are doing it. I think older women do it because they feel called to it for some reason other than just style. Personally, I was thinning on top.You are wonderful natural visions of God.  – Felicia Hopkins, less than 1 year natural

Know what to expect

Remember, natural does not mean low/no maintenance. You still must carefully care for your hair. – Dee Robinson, 2 years natural

Be bold

You made the decision to go natural, enhance it by getting a cut or trim. Add some color or highlights. Play up your eyes. Arch those eyebrows. Buy a bold lipstick to rock that natural look. Most of all, be confident in your decision. Have patience and peace. It will take some time and effort to figure out what works for you.  – Lynthia Jackson, 2+ years natural

How do you encourage your fellow 50+ naturals?

If you once enjoyed curly, bouncy ringlets, but have lately been finding that your crowning glory is beginning to, well, droop, you have reason to be concerned. Fortunately, there are some likely causes for your loss of curl, and we’re here to help bring ’em back. Whether you’ve had one too many run-ins with the flat iron or you’re scared of visiting the salon (and subjecting your hair to helpful curl-enhancing treatments”>, we’ve outlined a few ways you may be (accidentally”> losing your curl pattern along with suggested strategies for bringing it back.

Heat Damage

Heat can wreak havoc on your curls. Using heat on your hair temporarily breaks the weak hydrogen bonds in your hair making it moldable and easy to alter. This temporary breakdown allows the hair to mold itself into your desired shape — curly hair can temporarily be straightened by using a flat iron, or straight hair can temporarily be made curly by using a curling wand. Your hair is made up of a protein called keratin, and the heat allows the keratin chains to maneuver themselves and assume new positions, essentially breaking down the bonds and weakening the structure of the hair. The process of breaking down the bonds excessively or with severe heat can permanently damage the structure resulting in deformed curls or permanently straight pieces. Hair is its strongest when all bonds are intact.

Putting down the heat styling tools, or at least decreasing the amount that you use them, can significantly help in preventing heat damage. And, when you do heat style, be sure to use a heat protectant product.

Long Hair

Many of today’s hair trends include textured styles and braided updos that call for longer locks. Unfortunately, long hair tends to equate to heavier hair, which drags your curls down and gives the appearance of stretched curls. This does not happen to all hair types though. Finer hair textures carry less weight, while normal to thick strands have a greater chance of being affected. How can we get the volume we crave with the length we love? Well, since the way the hair’s cut will help determine how the hair behaves, the best way is to keep your hair cut in a layered shape. Layers are formed by holding sections of the hair at a specific elevation, and volume appears as a result of the hair standing rather than falling. Therefore, if you cut your hair at standing elevations, you’ll get volume while maintaining length.

Always be sure to explain and communicate your hair goals to your hairstylist; if you’d like to keep it long but don’t want too many layers, talk to your stylist about a cut that’ll help you keep the curl definition you love.

Chemical Damage

The strongest bonds within the keratin are the disulfide bridges. They are not easily broken down and can only be altered with chemical treatments. Unlike the temporary effects of heat styling, chemicals like hair coloring, relaxers, and cold wave or permanent waving techniques involve chemicals that break down and reform the bonds in the hair to make a permanent change. This is what you would call a chemical reaction. Chemist Corner explains that while “most of thechemical reactions in our (cosmetic chemistry”> industry occur at the raw material suppliers labs, there are some cosmetic products specifically designed to chemically react.” These chemical reactions cause the hair to swell giving access to its inner workings. They then use products to reform the bonds of the hair, and close the cuticle.

These results are permanent and cannot be reversed; as such, stylists are trained to coach clients that utilize these techniques to use special products to nurse the hair along the way to prevent further damage or stress on the hair. Products that neutralize — sulfate-free cleansers for example — and deep conditioners add moisture to the hair and strengthen it. While the only true antidote to chemical damage is a trim, there are ways to optimize your hair health with deep conditioners and natural oils. Look for products that mention “reconstructor” or “repair” and set up a regular treatment schedule.

Dryness Or Damaged Hair

Dryness can cause the hair to be frizzy, resulting in a lack of curl definition, while hair damage can cause the hair to look misshapen from a lack of structure. Styling hair that is dry or damaged takes extra time and can be frustrating. Taking a systematic approach, however, is necessary to correct dry or damaged hair — though figuring out the cause is the first step. If a lack of hair care is the problem, you can recover by using hair conditioning treatments at least once a week. For general dryness, use moisture masks and hydrating deep conditioners to feed the hair the moisture it craves. For damaged hair, look for Keratin-based treatments that promise to repair your damaged hair. When using a reparative mask, rinse it out and then chase it with a regular rinse-out conditioner to balance out the hair, since sometimes keratin or protein-based products can cause the hair to become brittle. When the hair regains its moisture and strength, you may stretch your treatments to every two weeks.

Try not to freak out if you feel you’ve lost your curls; there are ways to bring them back depending on whether you’re dealing with temporary or permanent damage. For permanent concerns like chemical treatments or heat damage, you might not be able to fully recover your original curl pattern, but you can nurse the hair back to a stronger state to try to prevent further damage.

Temporary concerns like dryness or long hair woes can easily be addressed. Long hair can regain its volume with a layered cut, especially if you utilize products that give your curls a boost. Dry hair can regain its elasticity and youthful appearance with the use of moisture-rich products packed with fatty acids and nourishing oils. Be kind to your hair and consider whether you truly want permanent change or if you can live with temporary enhancements.

A 2008 study done by Clairol found that 75 percent of American women dye their hair. This same survey revealed that 88 percent of women feel their hair has an effect on their confidence. Hair color is so extremely popular that you would think we knew more about it! Oftentimes we forget that hair and beauty involve chemistry and scientific formulas most of us know nothing about. Consequently, we rely on the professionals who share our passion for vibrant, functional color to master the science. They tell us to use hair color to complement rather than harm our hair. When applying hair color, the protection of our strands begins in the preparation process at home. 

Based on the porosity of your hair, there are some steps to follow to keep our color lasting longer with more time in between retouches, while preserving the integrity of the hair. It has been said that porosity is the frenemy of hair color, because when porosity is balanced, the color has a better chance of a successful finish, but when the porosity is inconsistent the results may reflect that.

Here are some things to remember when preparing your hair for color based on your hair’s porosity and how well your hair can hold and maintain moisture. Highly porous hair receives moisture with minimal effort and releases moisture with minimal effort. This hair type may have gaps and holes in certain areas of the cuticle, leaving the hair vulnerable to the elements, including water, which can severely damage this fragile hair type over time. On the other hand, non-porous hair has a difficult time receiving moisture and an equally difficult time releasing moisture. This hair type is typically very glossy, can often repel moisture, and is resistant to chemical treatments. Hair with normal porosity has a more balanced cuticle and only requires an occasional amount of moisturizing and strengthening. Chemical treatments are most predictable with a normal hair type.

How to best to prepare your hair

Old school hair theory used to believe that it is best to color dirty hair. There was some real truth to this, as dirty hair typically has a residue of sebum coating the hair strands. This sebum serves as a primer or buffer on the hair strands, evening out the porosity and giving a smooth, balanced color treatment. This was especially important in pastimes when hair color was harsher and had more potential to damage one’s hair. Today you do not have to worry about salving your hair in coconut oil or olive oil to hopefully protect your strands. Hair color has evolved to find gentler methods of treatment. West Texas Colorist, Jennifer Harr, chimes in to give us a glimpse of her typical client recommendations based on porosity.

Old school hair theory used to believe that it is best to color dirty hair. 

“Most hair types need to be assessed for determining if there is a buildup on the hair. Hair will process better when it is clean and free from excess product. If there is a buildup, which can be typical for low porosity hair, a clarifying shampoo is necessary or the Malibu Wellness Treatment is great for pulling out the minerals in the hair. A conditioning treatment (Malibu Miracle Treatment”> should follow to equalize the porosity and provide a more conducive surface for hair coloring. Very porous hair needs a leave-in conditioner like the ‘structure equalizer’ to be used under the color for a more even result. Without a structure equalizer on porous hair, the color could come out too darker to cool or it could simply just rinse off with the first shampoo.”

How it all works

Detoxing or clarifying treatments draw out the minerals with crystallized vitamin C. This helps to remove and prevent discoloration and brassiness attributed by iron and copper deposits on the hair, which can react with the dye molecules in the hair color. These minerals can attract to the hair through well water, hard water, and chlorine and could produce adverse colors. A removal  is necessary followed by a protein rich conditioner (for certain hair types”> to mimic the natural structure of the hair. This is a great way to prepare the hair for a smooth palette before coloring.

Porosity color prep

It is always best to consult your stylist to see what they recommend for your unique hair type.

High porosity

Deep clean the hair 24-48 hrs before your treatment, deep condition with a balanced moisturizing and strengthening treatment, rinse, and style with a leave-in conditioner only (no heavy products”>. This hair type can benefit from a light trim at the time of color treatment.

Normal porosity

Cleanse your hair 24 hrs before your color treatment, skip the conditioner, and use a light leave-in conditioner.

Low porosity

Demineralize the hair with a deep clarifying shampoo or demineralizing treatment to allow the color to adhere to the cuticle. Skip the conditioner all together and ask the stylist if you should use a higher volume developer if your hair is exceptionally resistant to color.

Knowing which method is best for you is the most important piece. Take some time to consult with your stylist. The good news is that most of your hair prep can be done at home to save you time and money. Enjoy your lasting hair color treatment and repeat these steps every time you color for maximum benefits!

The term scab hair has been circulating among our new naturals in recent years. Is it a clinical term or a name to describe something we have tried to make sense of? Naturalhaircarenews.com gives the most common description of scab hair: “Scab hair is the natural hair, (new growth”> which is damaged from previous use of chemical relaxers or other scalp damage. Based on the changes to our scalp and hair follicles from the regular use of relaxer chemicals, the hair that grows post relaxers is malformed or damaged so it grows out wiry and dry. It can take a while for hair that is not damaged to grow from the scalp after years of relaxing or other scalp damage.” 

This is a common discussion for naturals, especially those who have previously treated their hair with chemical relaxer or texturizers. Naturals have speculated about the possibility that chemical treatments could somehow damage below the surface! With no proven data to support such speculations, experts have debunked the theories. When discussing the truth about scab hair with Dr. Linda Amerson, a doctor of trichology and expert on hair and scalp disorders, she candidly states, “There is no such thing.” She does however explain what could be going on with the alleged scab hair, and apparently it has everything to do with the condition of the scalp.  

“Hair grows from the inside out and the best way to feed the scalp for healthy hair is through a healthy diet. However, the scalp can be damaged by hair styling choices, and in some cases chemicals if applied too frequently or improperly resulting in scalp disorders that can affect the texture of the incoming hair. “- Dr. Linda Amerson.

In other words, it is not simply the use of chemicals that has caused the hair texture to be altered, but rather through the harsh treatment of the scalp.

This is not a matter of semantics. It is not that chemical treatments, primarily relaxers and texturizers, cause scab hair as much as it is improper or frequent use of those chemical treatments can damage the scalp in a manner that results in an altering of the hair texture. The bottom line is that a damaged scalp can change your hair texture, regardless of the means. This can also happen through wearing tight braids, weaves, and other tension bearing extension methods. Amerson warns, “Trendy styles are not always a good choice for all hair textures. By the same token, chemical treatments like relaxers, permanent hair coloring, and other texture altering substances can result in scalp conditions that affect the hair.”

Here are a few more questions we asked Dr. Amerson:

NC: How can we treat the problem? 

Dr. Amerson: A microscopic analysis is necessary to see what is not visible with the naked eye. Topical treatments may be necessary.

NC: Are oils helpful to proactively treat the scalp?

Dr. Amerson: When there is a scalp condition, oils can be helpful based on the condition. If there is no condition present, then oils are not necessary, however dry scalp can benefit from natural oils. Determining which oils are necessary is determined on a case-by-case basis.

Mindful styling

Whether scab hair exists, matters not. What matters is that with improper hair care, you can damage your scalp and ultimately your hair. Before choosing a new style for your hair first assess if that style suits your hair texture. For example, Marley twists may not be a suitable choice for type 1, type 2 and really loose type 3 curl patterns, as they typically have a smoother hair texture, although twists are perfect for type 4 hair types. When using extensions, always use hair that matches your texture to prevent excessive friction of the cuticle. Similarly, it may not be wise for fine hair to use high or frequent heat styling methods compared to thicker or coarser hair types that are proven to withstand it better. Equally important is a healthy diet, rich in protein, fruits, and vegetables that nourish the blood that supplies the hair follicle.   

Take away

Care for your hair and your scalp from the inside out, considering it is delicate and unique qualities. Your results are guaranteed to speak for themselves! If you suspect scalp damage or disorders, schedule a consultation with your local trichologist for a consultation to get the answers you need. 

So, do you think your scalp is in good condition? 

This month on Curly Q&A we’re lucky to have a special guest answering your curly questions, natural hair expert Janelle Sands of The Secret Curl Society has been thoughtfully answering questions from our curly community, like this one from member Puryearrk (type 3C”>.

Question:

“How can I curl Marley hair without boiling water?”

After growing your daughter’s hair to a healthy length and teaching her to love all of herself, she now wants to straighten her hair! As a modern day naturalista, this may go against everything you believe in, but worry not.  Here are some tips to help you along the way.

Tip 1 – Give her the confidence to wear her natural hair

Although she wants to try a straight look, the good thing is that she wants to have fun and get involved with HER HAIR.  Tell her how beautiful her hair is in every state, whether curly, straight, down or up.  Our hair is a golden crown that we should be proud of.  So, look for moments to describe how unique her hair texture is while strategically mentioning all of the wonderful things you love about her natural hair.  This will cause her to exude confidence, and to walk with her head held high.

Tip 2 – Show her how to love and care for her hair

Nothing worth keeping should be tucked away and hidden from the world.  Instead it should be visibly cherished.  The best way to teach “cherished hair care” is to lead by example.  Speak only positive affirmations about your hair and your daughter’s hair.  Then give the hair intentional, quality time. This means giving the attention it needs on a regular basis.  So, rather than rushing through your hair care routines, give yourself enough time to truly focus on what you are doing so that the message of hair care is communicated positively, rather than sending the message that “hair care is arduous and difficult.” Detangling products like the Dream Kids Detangling Moisturizing Conditioner can make this process easier for you and your kiddo. This will slowly, but surely teach her to cherish her hair and herself.

Tip 3 – Products can make straightening a less daunting task

The truth is our society is fast paced with no plans of slowing down.  Agendas are packed, yet our responsibilities continue to grow. Hair care sometimes calls for a little more support.  Let’s not forget one major benefit to natural hair is the ability to have options.  Products like the Texture Manageability System can make straightening and styling easier, which helps with time management while preserving the integrity of your child’s hair!  It has a 4 out of 5 curl rating from our community and will lasts 4-6 weeks. Assess your child’s hair care needs, along with the needs of your family dynamics, to help you determine if this is a step in the right direction for the entire family.

Tip 4 – Make sure the return to curly is successful

In your heart of hearts your biggest desire is for your child to have a healthy, happy, hair experience.  Therefore to set her up for success, ease your child back into her curl style.  Be an attentive support throughout her cleansing process, starting with a gentle detangling session before cleansing.  While you detangle her strands, discuss what happens to curly hair when it becomes wet, being sure to inform her of the shrinkage and change in texture that she may witness.  Now would be an excellent time to discuss the unique adaptability of natural hair.  As you cleanse her hair and the curls begin to take shape, mention how beautiful her ringlets are and how you love the part when the curls bounce back. This conversation will make your return to curls pleasant and most importantly; successful.

Our children’s natural hair care experience can be even better than ours, due to the love we have for them and the knowledge we have obtained.  Consider these tips when deciding upon appropriate hair care for yourself and your child and have a blast with the versatility our hair brings.

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This post is sponsored by African Pride.

It can be scary, thinking of how delicate our hair really could be and how susceptible it might be to products, styling, and other forms of manipulation. Sometimes I am even afraid to eat certain foods because of my new found “hair-fall” phobia! For this reason, many are unsure of what products to use for fear that the products could make their hair fall out. But, can hair products be a cause of hair-fall? It is good to seek the truth when it comes to myths that affect important parts of your life like your hair! Join me in exploring what really causes hair to fall out.  

Understanding the hair growth cycle

Human hair grows and falls within a cycle of four phases. Beginning with the anagen or growth phase which can last anywhere from 2-6 years. During this time the hair follicle, nourished by the blood supply beneath the scalp, produces hair that grows roughly 1 centimeter every 28 days or 6 inches per year.  The next phase is the catagen phase, which last roughly 2-3 weeks. During this time the hair growth ceases and the follicle shrinks and attaches to the root of the hair, forming what’s called a “club hair.” Next, the telogen phase, or resting phase, can last up to 100 days. In this time the “club hair” is completely formed and prepared to shed. Within two weeks a new hair follicle will emerge. Each hair cycles through this process on its own time rather than a collective syncopation. This is why you do not notice much of its happenings. This process is completely normal and healthy. Most people lose anywhere from 50-100 hairs a day.

What role do products play?

Products can condition, style, and protect your hair from damage once it has been successfully produced from the hair follicle. It conditions the hair through leaving behind strengthening and hydrating elements onto and in some cases beneath the hair shaft. However, hair products do not nourish pre-existing hair. New hair is nourished through the blood that feeds the hair follicle. The right product combination should keep your existing hair strong and moisturized while enhancing its appearance with its various styling properties.

The truth about products and hair fall

“Products like shampoo will not bring out your hair unless your hair is already falling, in which case it would have fallen anyway. In other words, if you are already experiencing hair loss, then you will notice the shedding through the cleansing process. But shampoo is designed for one thing; to cleanse. So the answer to the question is no, products cannot make your hair fall out. However, it is good to know that brand new hairs known as vellus hairs are known to be sensitive to sulfates, therefore I advise thinning-haired clients to use sulfate-free products to protect the new hair growth. Hair loss and thinning is caused from something within, sometimes from stress, menopause, thyroid, or other hormonal influence, but, unfortunately it is easy to blame the hair loss on the last topical experience. You see, hair fall occurs at the root where we cannot see, so we know that external aids cannot be the cause, but can only “pre-rush” what is already in motion to occur. The hair shaft however, can be damaged through excessive braid styling, chemical treatments, and heat styling.”- Rodney Barnett, trichologist of the Hair Restoration Center in Dallas.

Take away

This is great news!  According to our expert trichologist, hair products alone cannot cause shedding, but rather what is happening on the inside. So, regardless of if your curl pattern is curly, wavy, or coily, keeping yourself in a healthy emotional balance is beneficial along with a healthy diet and active lifestyle to fortify the blood supply that nourishes the hair follicle. Remember that appropriate hair care is equally important for preventing damage to the hair shaft. Those with thinning hair should opt for a sulfate-free shampoo to protect all hairs, but especially the new vellus hairs as they develop.

So fear not, there is no need to fret over non-existent side effects of that new product you have been eyeing. Just go for it. Doesn’t it feel good to be set free by hair-truth?

So, what products do you currently use?

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For additional information please visit www.rodneybarnett.com or email him at barnettrodney2000@yahoo.com. Other resources: www.hairdoc.com, www.rodneybarnett.com.

What’s the difference between a cleansing conditioner and a regular conditioner?

Different hair types require very different haircare regimens. Every woman needs her own custom hair routine with a cabinet stocked with products that work for her specific needs. In a typical curl cabinet you might at the very least find shampoos, conditioners, moisturizers, oils, and styling products. And if the curl is really advanced, she has a leave-in conditioner on deck. In some sink cabinets you may find a more unfamiliar product….a cleansing conditioner. This may be a foreign substance to some and “part of the family” for others. But what do we really know about a cleansing conditioner? You might have wondered, is this just a different name for a co-wash? Is it another sneaky name for a shampoo or can I just use my regular conditioner as a cleansing conditioner? Well take a closer look with me.

Camille Rose Naturals Cream Restore Conditioning Cleanser

Fab Top Ingredients

Deionized water, glycerin, behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS”>, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, carthamus tinctorius (safflower seed oil”>

The Breakdown

1. Glycerin– a water soluble hygroscopic, also known as a humectant, a substance able to derive moisture from the air and to the hair.
2. Behentrimonium Methosulfate (BTMS”> – a vegetable-based conditioning and emulsifying agent. Very popular ingredient for textured hair products.
3. Cetearyl alcohol– a conditioning emulsifier and stabilizer made of fatty alcohols found in plants like coconut and palm oil. Also prevents separation and is a foaming agent.
4. Behentrimonium chloride– an emollient, used as a thickening and emulsifying agent in hair products. This mild ingredient can enrich without buildup and aids in detangling.
5. Carthamus tinctorius (safflower seed oil“> – an emollient rich in lineolic acid an essential fatty acid. Known to benefit dry and fragile hair.

Analysis

The formulation is made with very wholesome ingredients that are gentle and fine. Essential oils and fatty acids are plentiful, producing plump rich results. With a conditioning cleanser you reap the full benefits of a streamlined conditioner, while gently cleansing the hair. Conditioning cleansers will not leave your hair stripped and dry. They will have your hair clean and softened without heavy buildup that you might get from using daily conditioner for a repeated amount of time. You can frequently use cleansing conditioners without the fear of your hair drying out or accumulating buildup. Most importantly, based on the condition of the hair, you are not obligated to follow up with a rinse out conditioner! Damaged hair may want to use a follow-up treatment.

Camille Rose Naturals Owner Janell Stephens says, “This product (Camille Rose Naturals Cream Restore Conditioning Cleanser”> removes buildup with coconut extracts, matric aria flowers, and marshmallow extracts which have light conditioning properties. Jojoba oils help to smooth the ingredients through the hair easily. In essence, it lightly conditions and cleanses.”

Camille Rose Naturals Jansyn’s “Moisture Max” Conditioner

Fab Top Ingredients

Distilled water, cocos nucifere (coconut milk”>, carthamus tinctorius (safflower”> seed oil, elaeis guineensis (palm”> kernel oil, cocos nucifera (coconut”> oil, butyrospermum parkii (shea”> butter, aloe barbadensis leaf juice

The Breakdown

1. Cocos nucifere (coconut milk“>/ cocos nucifera (coconut oil“>- a conditioning agent, emollient and solvent. These two coconut derivatives are penetrating to the cortex of the hair providing strength and structure. A tried and true addition to moisturizing hair products.
2. Carthamus tinctorius (safflower seed oil“>- an emollient rich in lineolic acid an essential fatty acid. Known to benefit dry and fragile hair.
3. Elaeis guineensis (palm kernel oil“>- a plant extract and strengthening oil, which also can also penetrate to the cortex of the hair, strengthening the inner layer. Functions as an emollient.
4. Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter“>- derived from the nut of an African shea tree. An emollient for softening and moisturizing.
5. Aloe barbadensis leaf juice– derived from leaves of the aloe leaf, rich in vitamins, minerals, amino acids, enzymes, and proteins. Acts as a humectant for the hair and has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties to benefit the scalp.

Analysis

Throughout the list of ingredients you see a compilation of enriching and conditioning ingredients. When combined and emulsified into a product, these ingredients leave a lasting impression on the surface of the hair and within the hair shaft. Gentle, natural humectants are added to attract and maintain moisture levels within the hair. Oils are added for slip and detangling support to delicate strands. As rinse-out conditioner this can be used immediately following a cleansing session or you can use as a stand-alone conditioner as needed.

According to Janell Stephens, “Jansyn’s ‘Moisture Max’ Conditioner is a highly moisturizing rinse-out conditioner with natural ingredients to nourish the hair. Every now and then you will still need a deep conditioner for intense conditioning. However, there’s no way to tell a person what exact products to use. I believe people should try different products to find the best regimen for them.”

So what does this mean for your hair type?

If you desire increased moisture levels, a balanced pH, and clean hair with minimal buildup, then you may find a cleansing conditioner to suit your fancy. If you desire increased moisture levels, ultimate hydration on a regular basis, and detangling bliss, a moisturizing conditioner would fit your profile.

All hair types need cleansing and conditioning. Frequent wash and go-ers will really get a kick out of cleansing conditioners. They add the moisture you need to combat the recurring manipulation that goes into a wash and go, yet they will gently clean away any excess product needed for styling. Women of every curl pattern can benefit from a moisturizing conditioner when their hair feels dry or if they have very thirsty, coarse strands. Based on your hair type, you can govern the regularity of usage.

The Bottom Line

As previously stated by Stephens, it can be difficult to know what is best for your hair type without trying various products. My suggestion is to find a product line that meets your general concerns. For example, these specific products address the condition of the hair. Look for words that speak to your need, read the ingredient list, and try it out!

What is your current hair need?

[prodmod]

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Reference for ingredient descriptions: Tightly Curly & Paula’s Choice

It’s not news that our generation is embracing healthier lifestyles, with the words detox, organic, and natural gaining momentum and greater significance. Many people, when considering the importance of healthy living, examine their diet first. Then, they may start to think about removing harmful chemicals from their household and cosmetic products.

According to New York City dermatologist Anne Chapas, MD, “The FDA doesn’t provide guidance on natural personal-care products, be they toothpaste or mascara…In fact, the cosmetic industry has generally been self-regulated since 1938. Currently, manufacturers of cosmetic products are not subject to inspection or review before going public.”

Basically, it’s up to us to check our own labels. And, if you’ve glanced at the back of your shampoo bottle in the shower lately, you may have noticed a long list of even longer, scary-sounding names. This guide will tell you which of these ingredients you should steer clear of.

1. Sunscreen Chemicals

Avobenzone, Benzophenones, Octylethoxycinnamate, PABA are commonly used ingredients that are added to hair products to protect hair from the sun, because hair needs UV/UVB protection too.  An added benefit of sunscreen in hair products is its color protecting qualities, making color treatments last longer.  On the flip side, because they cannot destroy the sun’s energy, the light energy turns into chemical energy, which is normally released as cell-damaging free radicals.  Other cause for concern is that these chemicals in high quantities can easily be absorbed into the skin and cause skin irritants in most people.

2. Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

This water-based preservative emerged in the wood and paint industries before making its way to cosmetics, where it’s used in creams and lotions to prevent mold, bacteria, and other germs from spreading. Is it really harmful? Well, Japan seems to think so since it has banned the substance, and The Cosmetic Ingredient Review — an independent review panel — limits its use in cosmetics to .1% or less due to the potential to irritate skin in concentrations of .5% and above. Other allegations include quick absorption into the bloodstream, as well as dermal and inhalation toxicity. The CIR also notes that it should never be used in aerosol products because of inhalation risks.

Watch out for these terms:

IPBC, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, carbamic acid, Glycacil®, and IodoCarb®

Natural alternatives:

Natural preservative alternatives with anti-microbial properties include grapefruit seed and rosemary extracts; tea tree, neem seed, and thyme essential oils; vitamin E and vitamin C are also options. These natural alternatives prevent oils and fats from becoming rancid; however, their drawback is their shorter shelf life.

3. Lactic acid

This compound originating from sour milk is used in the hair product industry to allow the breakdown of skin and hair impurities to help other skin and scalp ingredients penetrate further.  Prolonged use can lead to eye and skin irritation and for this reason is restricted in Canada. You want lactic acid to be one of the last names on the ingredients list when using a product with this chemical.  High concentration could produce chemically altering effects. Ref: PurifySkinTherapy.com, EWGs Skin Deep Cosmetics Database

4. Lead Acetate

This is a very common color additive in modern hair dye products and — the big “C” word — a possible carcinogen. It has been banned in the European Union and Canada, and, according to the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC”>, it’s one of the most dangerous chemicals found in skin care because it’s “a known reproductive and developmental toxin linked to infertility, birth defects, and developmental delays.”

However, in 2002, the American FDA concluded that, “According to safety tests, no significant increase in blood levels of lead was seen in trial subjects and the lead was not shown to be absorbed into the body through such use.” Therefore, the FDA determined lead acetate to be safe when specific instructions listed on the packaging are followed. Therefore, you may begin to notice the following on products containing lead acetate: “Caution: Contains lead acetate. For external use only. Keep this product out of children’s reach. Do not use on cut or abraded scalp. If skin irritation develops, discontinue use. Do not use to color mustaches, eyelashes, eyebrows, or hair on parts of the body other than the scalp. Do not get in eyes. Follow instructions carefully and wash hands thoroughly after use.”

5. Lanolin

Lanolin is the purified secretory product of the sheep sebaceous gland — or, more plainly sheep sweat. This slightly unpleasant origin has earned the ingredient bad press as a scary ingredient in the past, but it is actually not dangerous if it’s purified lanolin. Although lanolin has been known to cause an allergic response in a very small percentage of people, purified lanolin is a clean, healthy product to use. Extensive research by the CIR deemed lanolin to have “low acute toxicity based on available animal data and human experience,” and went on to say that lanolin and related lanolin materials are safe for human topical application. This is good news considering its moisturizing benefits.

6. Phthalates

In hair products, phthalates are used primarily as hair-gelling agents in products. You will notice this by the term “fragrance” in your ingredient list. These phthalates, often simply labeled as “fragrance,” are known and praised for making product scents last longer, but they may not be entirely safe.

While phthalates have been accused of hormone tampering, a study by the University of Michigan found decreased testosterone in young boys exposed to high levels ofphthalates. The United States is slowly learning of the harm phthalates can cause, but Canada has already placed strict regulations on the ingredient.

7. PEG-3 Cocamide

This is a foaming agent used in hair products to produce the common mousse-like consistency. The National Library of Medicine, HazMap, notes that this ingredient is a human immune system toxicant; moreover, the United States Environmental Protection Agency, Office of Pesticide Programs, says that this ingredient may be a cause of cancer to humans. Although research for the cause of cancer is lacking, it is probably best to steer clear of this ingredient, anyway, especially as it is not essential to the effectiveness of the product. Instead, choose a similar product in a cream base rather than in foam-form.

8. Amino Methyl Propanol

This active ingredient is used as a pH adjuster that is generally considered safe at levels of concentrations below 2%. Unfortunately, many hair products, especially those requiring a strong pH adjuster (think chemically altering hair straighteners or hair dyes”> require concentrations well above 12%, which could cause irritation, speficically affecting the eye area. Because of this possible irritation, some people may wish to to use natural products that temporarily alter the state of their hair rather than products that aim to permanently alter it, since the latter carries a greater risk.

9. Nitrosamines

Nitrosamines are formed when certain compounds (typically TEA and DEA”> are used with certain preservatives that can break down into nitrates. TEA and DEA are typically used as wetting agents or pH adjusters in cosmetic products. Specifically DEA is used as an emulsifier in shampoos, cleaners, and detergents providing rich later and highly desired consistencies, while TEA is used as fragrance, pH adjuster and emulsifying agent.

However, when mixed with particular substances these can break down into nitrosamines. The UK’s Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform describes nitrosamines as “more toxic to animal species than any other category of chemical carcinogen.” Canada has banned and found them unsafe for use in cosmetics. While common in American cosmetics, nitrosamines are not listed on product labels because they are impurities, so look to avoid ingredients like: triethanolamine, diethanolamine, DEA, TEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, lauramide DEA, linoleamide MEA, myristamide DEA, oleamide DEA, stearamide MEA, TEA-lauryl sulfate.

10. Parabens (methyl, butyl, ethyl, propyl”>

This sneaky ingredient is used in products as a preservative, yet is rarely labeled correctly. The easiest way to avoid this ingredient is to use products labeled “paraben-free.” Although parabens are typically found in breast cancer tumors, more research is still needed to determine if parabens actually cause breast cancer. Still, many women are choosing to go the paraben-free route and opting for products containing natural preservatives. The downside to natural preservatives is that the they don’t preserve products for very long, so your beauty products will have a shorter shelf life than you’re used to.

Best Practices

It’s important to make informed decisions about what you put on your hair and body, but in order to do that, you’ve got to have at least a basic understanding of what ingredients you may want to avoid. Keeping an eye out for the substances listed above is a great start.

Temporary color can be very misunderstood to the common curly, perhaps because it can be defined within the three different genres of demi-permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary. It is great to be mindful of the general structure of the hair shaft as we discuss how these different types of hair color work on our hair.

Your hair shaft contains three important parts. The medulla is the innermost part found in thicker hair types and is often missing from fine hair. The next layer is called the cortex, made up of cells of keratin, which is responsible for 90% of the strands’ weight. It is the cortex that determines the texture and natural color of the hair. The outermost part of the hair is the cuticle, made up of overlapping, colorless cells similar to roof-like shingles that serve as a protective barrier to the cortex.

While color treatments are fun and exciting, they can be either helpful or harmful to your hair based on the hair type and chosen method. Here are three types of temporary hair coloring methods to explore.

Demi-Permanent Color

This hair color is typically offered as a professional service and is considered a professional product. Demi-permanent color is naturally ammonia-free, has a low pH, and uses a very low-volume developer (1:1 ratio”> to gently lift the cuticle to penetrate beneath the surface to the cortex; therefore preserving the integrity of the hair. It can cover gray up to 50% and can last up to 28 shampoos. According to Goldwell Colorance, some formulas can even strengthen the hair shaft and boasts of 35% improved hair structure with its line.

Semi-Permanent Color

This form of color adsorbs onto the outside of the hair shaft with some molecules absorbing beneath the cuticle layer based on the porosity of the hair. Porous hair will receive more color than non-porous hair. With each shampoo, color is removed and can last up to eight shampoos. Semi-permanents are typically retail products rather than professional and provide up to 30% gray coverage. With each shampoo, the color will rinse out of the hair. Semi-permanents utilize no developer, thus preserving the condition of the hair.

Temporary Color

This option requires the least amount of commitment with color lasting around 1-3 washes. Semi-permanent color works with large color molecules attaching to the outer cuticle of the hair. These color molecules are much too large to absorb beneath the surface but will adhere to the shaft based on the hair’s porosity. This type of color is safe for multiple uses and even safe after a chemical relaxer treatment. No developer is used and little to no gray coverage is expected. However when applied to pre-lightened or damaged/porous hair, temporary color may stain the hair shaft. To make your temporary hair color last a bit longer and look a tad brighter, cover with a plastic cap and sit under heated dryer for 30-45 min.

Hair Care for Temporary-Color Treated Hair

Toby Vernay, master professional stylist and salon educator of Pura Vida Salon and Spa of West Texas, advises the use of color-safe products with UV protection for longer lasting color following each of the temporary coloring options.  According to Vernay, most if not all professional products are now color-safe. He further advises that hair which has been previously treated with permanent hair color can use demi-permanent hair color to retouch and refresh fading color, rather than repeating permanent color treatments.  This is a safer, healthier option without additional harm to the hair.

Feel free to have fun with temporary hair color. It is truly a safe option for your textured strands. Be sure to utilize the hair care tips above to reap the full benefits of your desired color treatment.

Have you tried demi-permanent, semi-permanent, or temporary color? Which do you prefer? How do you retain your color?

I had programmed myself to believe that certain products are not for me, especially when the models on the package did not look like me. I am learning to at least consider the qualities and attributes of products that I might be unfamiliar with before completely writing them off. As of late, I am actively getting familiar with pomades and gels. What is the difference between these wonderful concoctions? We solicit the hair care company CURLS  to compare the CURLS Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste and CURLS Goddess Curls Botanical Gelle.

According to their creator, Mahisha Dellinger, “Gels are great for defining, defrizzing, and styling curls in place and are used from root to tip. Pomades are ideal for sculpting and slicking straight or curly hair in place. They are generally used for the first 3-4” of hair.  For example, our customers use CURLS Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste to smooth down their edges and for slicking back their ponytails, buns, chignons, or any other protective styles. They use our CURLS Goddess Curls Gelle on freshly cleansed and/or conditioned hair to define and defrizz their hair. They allow the hair to air dry to create a wet, defined look or diffuse for a naturally defined look.

Gels

The purpose of any gel is to enhance curl definition and hold the hair together from root to tip.  A good gel will leave the hair defined and shiny with adequate hold. This particular gel has a strong hold without a stiff feel. Its unique quality is the botanicals, which means it uses natural, organic ingredients that rinse off easily with water and do not require a heavy shampoo.

The Tester: CURLS Goddess Curls Botanical Gelle

Like most gels, Curls Goddess Curls Gelle protects the hair from humidity to enhance and sustain curl definition. It provides all day protection and soft, touchable curls. The hold is created through styling polymers that cause the hair to attract to itself, forming clusters of softer curls. However, just because a gel is hard does not mean it is a bad formulation. The crunchy or smooth texture of the hair is simply a personal preference. Below you will see the purpose of the key ingredients in the CURLS Goddess Curls Gelle.

Ingredients

• Water, Sorbitol, Polyacrylate-14, Polyquaternium-7, Polysorbate 20, Fruit Certified Organic Mangifera Indica (Mango”> Seed Butter, Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1 – emulsifier
• Carbomer – polymer
• Certified Organic Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter”> – conditioning and viscosity agent
• Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice – moisturizer
• Aminomethyl Propanol – pH Balancer
• Tetrasodium EDTA – preservative
• Phenoxyethano – conditioning preservative
• DMDM Hydantoin – preservative

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Pomades

A pomade formulation could also be called paste, putty, whip, or glue. Pomades of the past were usually beeswax or petroleum based for heavy styling. Although newer editions may contain traces of both wax and petroleum, other additives create a smoother, lighter finish. CURLS Passion Fruit Control Paste is also formulated with pure organic ingredients like shea butter & mango seed butter. It’s excellent for slicking edges in place for updo styles or ultra-defined curl styles.

The Tester: CURLS Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste

Ingredients

• Water, Ceteareth-25, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Glycerin, Isostearyl Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Shea Butter, Mango Seed Butter – emulsifying
• Jojoba Oil – emulsifier
• Vitamin E Oil – conditioning
• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – stabilizer
• Passion Fruit Oil – conditioning agent
• Evening Primrose Oil – conditioning agent
• Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydro- lyzed Maize Starch – conditioning, film forming
• Panthenol – moisturizer
• Phenoxyethanol – preservative
• Fragrance

The Difference

A gel is best utilized for a wash and go or other loose styles. A gel controls the hair and holds it in the place. Once dry, the cast it creates to hold the clumped curls together can be broken to release the clusters of curls from sticking to each other, allowing movement. Gel provides shine from light reflection and can usually last 1-4 days depending on the hair type.

Pomades are designed for sculpted styles like ponytails, updos, or other coiffed looks. Its ability to lay hairs in an orderly fashion allots for enhanced shine and smoothness. While typically used at the roots and edges of hair, ladies with thick, coily hair could also use pomades for twists or wet styling to help lay down the hair shaft and enhance shine.

How to Choose

1. Choose a gel and/or pomade without harsh additives that are difficult to rinse out.
2. Look for nutrient rich ingredients in styling products. Our hair is more than cosmetic fodder; it is a part of us.
3. Read the directions on the package for successful, best practices.

How do you use gels and pomades? Do you use them together?

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After doing a certain ritual for so many years, there always comes a time when you challenge the routine by asking questions like why do I do this and could I still have the same effect if I did something else? This is what happens to us with our shampoo and conditioning. What is your hair care ritual? I detangle, shampoo, and condition every time. What do you do and why do you do it? At some point, I heard the question,

Can you shampoo after conditioning?

Not knowing how to immediately respond caused me to dig deep within my own knowledge and experience. I sought out key contributors of our beauty industry for insight on the topic. This method could change the way your hair feels after wash day, for some the change will be positive and others it may be negative. But knowing that there is another way beyond the traditional directions on every bottle may open your eyes to new ways of using your favorite products.

The Purpose of Shampoo

Shampoo was created to cleanse our hair and scalp of dirt, shed skin, dust particle debris, product buildup, and excess sebum, the natural oil produced by our scalp. The active ingredients that cause this cleansing action are surfactants. Surfactant molecules have a hydrophilic heads and a lipophilic tails. The lipophilic end attaches to the debris causing it to cluster into little balls that can be washed away. The hydrophilic end attaches to water molecules, causing the debris to rinse off. As the hair is rinsed, the dirt and other debris are washed away. Although there are many different types of cleansers, the average shampoo will have a pH of 8, which is slightly alkaline. At this level, the hair shaft will swell to raise the outer layers of the cuticle (that protect inner workings of the hair”> similar to limbs on a tree.

The Purpose of Conditioner

Conditioner was created to strengthen and moisturize the hair after shampooing. Conditioners have a pH between 3.5-6. It’s purpose is to bring your hair back into a healthy moisture balance and smooth or “close” the cuticle while detangling and preparing the hair for the rigors of styling. This happens through the cationic surfactants within the conditioner that carry a positive electric charge that binds to the negative charge of the hair strand. These surfactants coat the hair, leaving a thin film that adheres to the cuticle, providing moisture, protection, and manageability.

Shampoo AFTER Conditioner

Anna Purseglove of Daily Mail considers reverse shampooing the secret to perfect hair. Touting her much desired benefits of detangling, and glossing along with extra volume. She states,“ I could see a marked difference in my hair. Not only did it leave my hair shinier, it helped combat frizz caused when particles of dirt stuck to the residual product. Best of all, it felt softer yet thicker.” Utilizing this technique would first coat the hair strand with binding surfactants followed by the shampoo which would remove most of what is currently present, depending on chosen shampoo. Typically this technique would not utilize a follow-up conditioner.

Shampoo Before Conditioner

To continue the tried-and-true method of cleansing before conditioning would mean you would cleanse the hair with your shampoo, removing dirt oil and buildup followed by the a surface conditioner. You should end up with clean, well-conditioned, manageable hair. As your cuticle becomes slightly raised by the water and shampoo, your conditioner instantly counteracts, smoothing the cuticle for the ideal pH balance for healthy hair.

The Facts

Wavy hair types might be tempted to utilize the reverse shampoo method, but this has the high potential to bring extreme damage to kinky curly textures, due to the swelling of the hair strand from the alkaline pH without a balancing follow-up. Regardless of hair texture, a raised cuticle is not the ideal state for the hair. A cuticle in it’s raised state is more susceptible to damage from the elements and daily styling, making it more prone to chipping along the hair shaft which leads to breakage.

Obia, owner of Obia Natural Hair Care, chimes in: “If you are not getting great results with your current shampoo-conditioner, you need to get a new product. There is a scientific reason for shampooing before conditioning. Ideally, your shampoo will have a higher pH balance and your conditioner will have a lower pH to bring your hair back into the appropriate moisture balance. Your products should have a pH of 4.5-5.5. The right formula will produce the right result. In other words, if it doesn’t make sense scientifically, it will not make sense practically.”

The Final Verdict

Is this an acceptable practice? Well, to each his own. It may work for someone, but not without great risks. Instead of risking it all for added volume, try a product with a low molecular weight, one that will not add weight to the hair, such as a leave-in conditioner in place of your rinse out conditioner and shampoos containing light oils rather than derivatives of castor oil and the like (check your ingredients”>. For the curly that craves more moisture or strength from a shampoo ritual, add pre-poo to your regimen before you shampoo and conditioning. This is proven to reduce swelling of the hair shaft.

Pre-Pooing

Will Williams, an education director of new products, and research and development of M & M products recommends the following:

1. Allow your coconut oil to sit on your hair for a minimum of 15 minutes or overnight (pre-poo”>
2. Cleanse with a sulfate-free shampoo followed by a rinse out conditioner
3. Apply a leave-in conditioner
4. Seal your tips with a very light oil

Looser textures can also benefit from the same regimen by simply using lighter versions of products.

Do you shampoo before conditioning? Do you condition before you shampoo? Have you tried both? What was your experience like?