Search Results: Janelle Sands
What is texturizing spray?
Today’s texture spray creates texture on the surface of the hair shaft for the styling options we crave. An extremely popular texture spray is the Aquage Collection Sea Salt Texturizing Spray. This is a volume-building styling spray that adds thickness and helps create texture.
Who is it for?
Texturizing sprays are typically used for creating body and styles with hold. This styler can enhance body and styling with any hair type that is healthy. Women and men who desire enhanced body want to mirror the fresh from the beach look or a thicker appearance. Texturizing sea spray creates volume by separating the hair strands from another and providing a firm hold to make that strand by strand lift and definition last.
What’s in it?
This particular product achieves this exceptional performance via polymers, specifically VP/VA copolymer, which Cosmetic Info notes as an ingredient that adds hold by inhibiting the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. According to Happi Magazine, “Hair fixative polymers generally function by forming films that spot-weld and seam-weld the hair in the desired style.” What makes this texturizing spray so popular is also its beneficial nourishment through natural resources like sea salt and exotic extracts like himanthalia elongata extract (sea silk”> and Neptune sea kelp extract.
The best way to use it
Spray your freshly cleansed and towel dried hair liberally as a foundation for your style. Saturate and distribute the product into the hair and style using your fingers to scrunch, sculpt, or shingle your curls. To heighten the volume, use a diffuser attachment with high airflow. For a less voluminous look, allow the hair to air-dry.
“Aquage is all about combining the best of sea and science. Our sea salt is infused with magnesium rich sea botanicals and Dead Sea salts, which help with thickness and volume to get that random texture the girls are looking for. The hair benefits are nourishing- sea algae that help to strengthen the hair follicle. This is one of our top selling products because it demonstrates what we stand for as a brand. It is great because it is firm but doesn’t have the crunch, especially when you have a naturally wavy texture and it is pretty impressive for definition.”- Fae Harris, Director of Marketing and New Product Development at SalonQuest
If your curls and waves are flat, limp, lifeless, heavy, or a little smoother than you would like them to be, then a texture spray can give you lift, volume, and strand by strand definition to turn your boring day-to-day into a dramatic “texture on the beach” look.
What is your favorite texturizing spray?
While the hair growth cycle is the same for adults and children, the onset of hair growth should remain undisrupted in developing babies and children. They need a healthy, balanced environment that is conducive to their growth and development. Although this process is a natural part of the life cycle, it can be interrupted through harsh hair care, product abuse, and over manipulation. Instead, gentle products without harsh ingredients like sulfate cleansing agents are necessary to go with the natural flow of the body.
It is important that children are exposed to nurturing ingredients as their bodies receive nourishment and/or toxins much easier than adults.
Within the last decade, there has been a burst of baby body products due to the uniquely delicate and sensitive skin of children. As they age, their skin gets tougher. This is also true for the scalp, which absorbs products easily. It is important that children are exposed to nurturing ingredients as their bodies receive nourishment and/or toxins much easier than adults. In addition, children’s hair should be gently manipulated when caring for their delicate and developing hair strands.
Your Kids’ Products Should…
- Be safe and refrain from inhibiting the natural growth cycle.
- Be a support for gentle manipulation.
A representative of Mansfield-King says that when they develop products for children “the focus of everything we develop is safety, then performance. First comes a review of any regulatory concerns with children’s products, such as the recent information out of Minnesota regarding formaldehyde donors used as preservatives in children’s products. The next step is developing samples that meet the safety and performance criteria.”
According to Mahisha Dellinger, the Founder of CURLS, when she decided to make her lines for babies, children, and adults they considered the needs of these different groups. “When I decided to make a kid’s line, Curly Q’s, and subsequently a baby line, It’s A Curl, I knew that changes would have to be made. While the CURLS philosophy has always been “go green or go home,” we knew that formulating for kids (and babies”> required even more focus. Young scalps are tender, sensitive, unexposed. You cannot just slap any product on your angel’s hair without care. Given this fact, we have taken a very calculated formulation path, we have scaled back on key ingredients, lowered the percentage on active ingredients and have incorporated scalp soothing ingredients (e.g. organic aloe vera juice and coconut milk”> into our Curly Q’s for Kids and It’s A Curl for babies.”
Take it from the professionals, children’s formulated products are not just a marketing gimmick designed to trick you into spending more money, but derive from safety and performance based objectives. Any quality product developer and product company will seek to accomplish these two very important needs when introducing curly hair products into our market and into our homes.
Check out the Kids Hair Products in CurlMart!
What are your favorite children’s products?
With so many on the market, it could appear they all do the same thing. So, you logically think you could choose any one and get the same result. That may or not be true. Nevertheless, each formula has one major goal in mind, which is to tame the frizz along the perimeter of your head. Let’s see which one is best for you.
Edge Tamer
Design Essentials Honey and Shea Butter Edge Tamer
- Add nourishment
- Add brilliant shine
- Add long lasting hold
Fab 5 Ingredients
Water (aqua”>, calendula officinalis flower extract, goldenseal (hydrastis canadensis”>, lawsonia inermis (henna”> extract, humulus lupulus (hops”> extract, and equisetum arvense (horsetail”> extract.
To my surprise the ingredients match its claim. Each of the fab 5 ingredients is nourishing extracts that strengthen and enhance the hair. The styling polymers are further down the list. For best results, apply to your edges with fingertips and chase it with a boar bristle brush. This product is best used on along the hairline for Type 3 and Type 4 curl patterns.
Pomade
Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade
- Provide nourishment (all-vegetable pomade”>
- Provide protection
- Provide a long lasting, glossy finish
Fab 5 ingredients
Ricinus communis (castor”> seed oil, hydrogenated glycine soja (soybean”> oil, organic virgin cocos nucifera (coconut”> oil, mangifera indica (mango”> seed butter, and olea europaea (olive”> oil.
Like the edge tamer, this formula is also chock-full of nourishing agents to support its purposes. From beginning to end, the formula uses natural ingredients for results, like cocoa seed butter for dual nourishment and holding agent. This product is best used to impart sheen, lubricate the scalp, and maintain stretched styles. Women who love using natural and gentle products will find this product comforting and effective for enhancement and mild styling.
Balm
EDEN BodyWorks Coconut Shea All Natural Hair Balm
- Nourishing
- Strengthening, less breakage
- Soft and smooth
Fab 5 Ingredients
Cocos nucifera (coconut”> oil, cera alba (beeswax”>, glycine soja (soybean”> oil, microcrystalline wax, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
This product should be used on dry hair to protect, strengthen, and enrich the hair shaft. Not just for the edges, this product can be used throughout the hair. Utilizing beeswax as a holding and styling agent, this will also be effective at protecting, enhancing, softening, and smoothing the hair. It can also be used for all hair types.
Best Practices
Mild holding formulas may use oils and natural butters like shea, cocoa, and mango seed as their primary holding agents. Products with a medium to strong hold may use a combination of natural waxy esters and/or polymers in varying degrees as well as herbal or vegetable based gums like cellulose gum to hold the hair in place. Many polymers will begin with “poly ” such as polydimethylsiloxane and polyquaternium 11. However, it is important to know that the addition of the ingredients does not guarantee it will meet the estimated hold. The hold factor is also determined by the amount of the particular ingredient within the formula.
As you can see, all three formulas have one thing in common, nourishment. You can count on edge tamers, pomades, and balms to protect the hair and enhance it with nourishing ingredients. The differences will be in the hold. Study the intention of your product selection before purchasing. If you have looser curls or a soft, fine texture, choose a lighter, mild holding formula. On the other hand, if you have high density, or tighter curls, choose a stronger holding formula.
Which one do you think is best for you?
And now she is celebrating a major victory as last week a federal judge declared that the set of laws that were preventing Brantley and other braiders from teaching students to braid for a living, were in fact unconstitutional. This has been a long-fought battle for Brantley, who in 1979, Brantley opened up the first natural hair salon in Texas. In the late 70’s natural hair had a different image, a different message. In my interview with Brantley she shared that “The word ‘natural’ was a negative word, so I helped people to challenge their jobs and change their perception and began teaching hundreds of people how to braid, twist and loc hair and potentially make it their business.” In 1995, the state came to her storefront to disclose it was illegal to braid in Texas for profit. Brantley recounted how in 1997 “seven law enforcement officers barged into my building and handcuffed me to go to jail for braiding without a cosmetology license. I got out of jail, got a lawyer and in 2007 they grandfathered me in as a licensed braider.”
It was not until 2006 that the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation made the Hair Braiding Certificate possible for budding braiders to pursue. Although grandfathered in, Brantley was not permitted to teach. The state then mandated for Brantley to comply with barber-school regulations to be in compliance as a school of cosmetology. This would require her to install at least ten workstations, five sinks, and provide barbering textbooks. Furthermore she would be required to relocate to a larger space.
Nevertheless, she has continued her craft of braiding and instructing. Finally, in 2015 she won her case against the state of Texas. According to the Wall Street Journal, U.S. District Judge Sparks wrote that there was a “logical disconnect inherent in a scheme which contemplates the existence of hair braiding schools but makes it prohibitively difficult for a hair braiding school to enter the market in hair braiding instruction.”
When I asked Brantley what her message to the natural hair community is in light of the new ruling, she said she “would like the support of the people; to pay homage to the fact that a resurrected soul of Madame CJ Walker has stood on the front line for the economic liberty of ethnic women. I ask that the natural hair community rally around me to help put forth efforts to make this happen through me. From there, let’s work to further this endeavor together.”
How It Works
Olaplex is a single ingredient that is added before and after hair color treatments and other chemical services. It promises to preserve the integrity of the hair and essentially multiply the bonds within the hair shaft. In other words, Olaplex reconnects the broken disulfide sulfur bonds in the hair that were broken down during thermal, mechanical, and chemical services. It is also free of silicone, sulfates, phthalates, DEA, aldehydes, and is never tested on animals.
Why?
Hair fibers, which can be very strong, are easily compromised by our use of styling aids and everyday wear and tear. To alter the state of our hair requires manipulating particular bonds within our hair shaft. Two of the bonds rearrange temporarily and then can form back together again. The salt bonds can break within the hair based on pH levels and when the appropriate pH level is neutralized, they come back together. Hydrogen bonds are very weak and can be broken with water or heat. After cooling, the bonds will return to their natural state. The disulfide bonds or cysteine bonds, and peptide bonds are considered chemical bonds and cannot be easily broken. However, chemical treatments can permanently break down these bonds. And since bonds cannot repair themselves, the hair gurus on high have taught us to condition regularly to prevent further damage. However, we have also been taught that there is nothing you can do to repair broken bonds…at least until Olaplex entered the building.
Through word of mouth and the powers of Instagram, Olaplex’s popularity has skyrocketed into the hands of professional, celebrity stylists worldwide. In fact, Celebrity Stylist and Owner of MeCHE Salon Los Angeles Tracey Cunningham is an avid user. She asserts, “I feel like people come in to see me everyday and they hand me pictures of Victoria Secret models and movie stars and they want me to perform miracles on them, and now I really can.”
The Procedure
- Add Olaplex Bond Multiplier No. 1 into your color or lightener before applying to the hair.
- After color is rinsed, apply Perfector No. 2 to eliminate breakage with every hair service. Then rinse, shampoo, and condition.
- Perfector No.3 is a take home solution for the client to use once a week to further strengthen the hair or to be used as a pre-treatment of a future chemical or thermal service.
Don’t want color, use as a stand alone treatment
- Mix 1/2 oz (15ml”> of No.1 Bond Multiplier with 3oz (90ml”> of water in an applicator bottle. Apply from roots to ends. Saturate hair and comb through. Leave on for five or more minutes.
- Without rinsing, apply a generous amount of No.2 Bond Perfector and comb through once. Leave on for a minimum of ten minutes.
- Rinse, shampoo, and condition.
It is important to note that Olaplex treats the internal structure of the hair, therefore the final shampoo and condition is necessary to treat the external hair shaft.
Hair is hair. Whether curly or straight, damaged hair needs repair. Olaplex essentially reinstates the sulfur hydrogen bonds together which were previously broken by chemicals or excessive heat styling treatments.” -Dean Christal, Owner of Olaplex
What can Olaplex do for me?
As curly women, we often have dry, fragile hair, which can scare you away from daring color selections and heat styling. Olaplex could provide the buffer between you and styling damage, allowing you to push the envelope like you have always envisioned. If your hair is already damaged, you can apply Olaplex as a deep penetrating treatment to finally repair broken bonds within your hair strands rather than temporarily patch them up. Master Stylist and Owner of Neal Parker Salon in Abilene, TX Neal Parker says, “We love it! We have seen nothing but good results and it really upholds the integrity of the hair. Of course always use caution. There is no magic, but it is legitimately different than other products. The results are insanely noticeable and curly damaged hair gets more of its curl back!”
On that note, which of you will give this new revolutionary treatment a try?
The natural hair movement has been in full force for the last decade or more, women all over the world began tossing out their chemical laden treatments in favor of a natural lifestyle and wearing their natural hair textures. However new trends have also risen throughout this time period, giving women alternatives to the traditional relaxer. So far we have seen the texturizer treatment, Brazilian blowouts, diverse smoothing treatments and on a low and slow scale, the “texlax” technique.
What is Texlaxing?
Texlaxing involves using a relaxer system on one’s hair for a limited time, to process the hair at a lower level than the full relaxer system. This choice, like the others mentioned above are attractive to women who want to live a more natural lifestyle, want to keep a bit of their hair texture, or have concerns about wearing their hair relaxed or natural. This technique is typically considered a middle ground option.
Texlaxing vs. Relaxing
Relaxing the hair involves applying a cream to hair with texture or curl. The strong chemicals of sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide penetrate the layers of the hair shaft to permanently break down the strongest bonds in the hair, also known as the disulfide (covalent”> bonds, which ultimately break, loosen and straighten the curl patterns of the hair. The hair is then combed through to smooth the cuticle and the chemicals are left on the hair for a specified time to produce the desired results.
According to Creme of Nature “relaxing the hair has traditionally meant the process of straightening curly hair with a product formulated to break the disulfide bonds in the hair and realign them into a straight position, resulting in hair that is permanently straightened. Texturizing is defined as removing at least 60% of the hair’s natural curl pattern.”
While “texlaxing” uses the same chemicals, the process is slightly different. The time frame for texlaxing is usually complete in half the time of a relaxer. However, the process time is based on the desired texture of the hair, with longer processing for straighter hair and shorter for more textured hair. Some texlaxers choose to skip the “comb through” method all together, afraid that step may over-straighten the hair. The intent of texlaxing is to have manageable hair with less risk of damage or breakage.
UloveMegz, popular YouTuber and Blogger, chimes in on the conversation “I consider Texlaxing to be, purposely under-processing your hair during the relaxing process to leave some texture to your hair. It will not be bone, or super straight so you will have somewhat of a natural wavy texture, loosened by the chemical of the relaxer. I decided to texlax for more texture and volume. It is a process that any woman with ‘textured’ hair could consider.”
The Benefits & Risks
Both relaxing and texlaxing offer benefits and risks. The chemicals in the two processes can be damaging to the hair and require consistent, high caliber hair care. Regular deep conditioning treatments are necessary for strengthening the bonds and structure of the hair shaft. To minimize breakage in the two options it is important to remain on a maintenance schedule to minimize the tension at the line of demarcation, the point at which two different textures meet. This line can be a breaking point when not handled properly. Deciding to texlax or relax requires committeemen and when using chemicals it is highly recommended to see a licensed professional.
The benefits of Texlaxing include extra volume, more texture, and a new set of styling options utilizing relaxed and natural hair care techniques like flat twists and braid outs. The benefits of a relaxer include a smoother texture, enhanced manageability, and a different set of styling techniques like smooth roller sets and wraps.
Both options have value and risk. Therefore one’s hair type should be taken into account. Extremely fine hair may benefit from the gentler treatment of the texlaxer compared to the relaxer, whereas thick, hair could handle a relaxer if they chose, and if applied properly. With such a delicate decision requires time and research for making a firm decision. If you research the texlax methods and take into consideration your hair’s true integrity, you can make the healthiest decision for you and your hair.
Are You Natural if You Texlax?
Natural hair is defined as wearing one’s hair in its natural state. Using chemical products to texlax the hair does permanently alter the state of the hair. According to UloveMegz, “I consider myself relaxed since I am still breaking down the natural bonds of my natural hair. Again, I do it to simply add volume to my fine hair.” Women who choose this option won’t be in #teamnatural, but that’s okay. There is such a thing as #teamrelaxed. So, do what is best for you and be proud of the choices you make. Texlaxing does place you in a middle ground where you can wear both natural and relaxed styles with ease.
Schedule a consultation prior to service
The consultation is a time for you to comfortably convey your desires to the stylist. In turn, they should tell you whether or not your goals are realistic, and whether or not they can perform them. You, the consumer, and the stylist will be most open to hearing one another in this low-risk, non-threatening environment.
Steven Stewart, professional hair designer at Pura Vida Salon and Spa, explains why this is appropriate: “Whenever you have a special need or request it is best to get in contact with your stylist prior to making an appointment for the desired service. Different services take different amounts of time. Scheduling a consultation with your stylist will give you a chance to communicate your request and gives your stylist a chance to evaluate your hair and hear your desired outcome. Then, your stylist can provide professional feedback, and will also know the appropriate amount of time to schedule your service so that you can receive optimal results.”
Gently interrupt the service at the onset of your concern
Preparation is always the key when approaching a delicate situation. However, there are times that you may need to interrupt the service to voice your immediate concerns. Perhaps they are handling your hair too soft or too harsh, your scalp is tender, or maybe you have a change of heart. Speak quickly and intentionally, as it is harder to communicate in a time-crunch, so be proactive.
Stewart advises, “Don’t be afraid to voice your opinions. As stylists, we are here to create a look for you that you will be happy with. We can’t know that you have a concern unless you tell us. When voicing concerns, be willing to listen with an open ear to what your stylist has to say. Sometimes, creating your desired look is a process that takes more than one appointment. Also, there can sometimes be limitations on time, or your hair type. As a stylist, it is our job to be educated, and to protect the integrity of your hair. Be willing to have an open conversation with us, and trust the feedback we give you. If you don’t feel that your stylist is trustworthy or educated enough, then maybe it’s time to find someone else.”
The Good News
The good news is that you are not bound to anything or anyone, so exercise your right to select your stylist the services you want to receive. Let this give you peace and put you in an emotionally neutral, comfortable state to communicate politely and effectively. You also know your wants and desires better than anyone, which makes the confidence in what you are saying evident. With confidence and comfort, you are sure to have a successful exchange with your stylist.
Have you ever had anxiety when communicating with your hairstylist?
We have all had our share of hair disasters. Some experiences happen at home and others in the salon. At-home disasters might be easier to handle, as you or a close family member usually renders the offense. In that case, you can determine what changes to make. When the disaster occurs at the hands of a stylist, it can produce an ongoing fear since correcting his or her error can be more difficult. With our social networking across the world, it is increasingly common to share our hair catastrophes, one with another, which can sometimes perpetuate fear. With each situation, we vow never to put ourselves in a situation that makes us to want run for the hills.
This potential fear does not appear without reason. Natural hair newbies go through great lengths to achieve their goals. The amount of effort it takes to make the legendary transition takes courage, patience, and is rarely achieved without a strategy. Unfortunately, an understandable concern can easily transfer into a dramatic phobia. However, with every myth there might be at least an ounce of truth. Let’s see.
Using a comb will cause breakage
Truth- Using a comb improperly will cause breakage. When using a comb, do so when the hair is protected and supported by a slippery conditioner, detangler, or oil. Comb from the ends to the roots and when the hair is clear, stop.
Extensions and braids will cause breakage
Truth- Extensions and braids installed and handled improperly will cause breakage. Both braids and extensions should be installed on clean, conditioned, trimmed hair. They should be taken down after 6-8 weeks. Individual braids or twists should be redone around the edges to minimize tension, and while hair is in the protective style, the client must continually moisturized at least four times per week.
In conjunction with these concerns that address the hair directly, there are also natural women who are equally concerned about the social nuances that arise from life after and during the transition. Tamika Fletcher, co-owner of Natural Resources Salon in Houston, tells us the common concerns of naturals in her area. All such concerns are important because of the way they make us feel. Sometimes we need to look at such concerns with a different eye, a factual approach.
Will my hair grow?
Absolutely, hair grows at the rate of .25-.5 inches per month or a maximum of 6 in. a year, unless you have a health concern that inhibits your hair growth, in which case you should see a trichologist. How one cares for his or her hair will make all of the difference in retaining its length, such as sleeping on a satin pillowcase, deep conditioning, and getting regular trims.Will I be able to comb it on my own?
You most certainly will. Search for curl meet ups in your area, link up online with other naturals, and ask your stylist to give you some tips for at-home hair care.Will I miss out on job opportunities?
No, there are employers who are willing to accept qualified candidates for the exact way they present themselves.Will I be able to find a man?
Of course you will be able to find a love interest who will be attracted to you and love you exactly the way you are. The world has changed for all of us and we are continuing to embrace each other.What will my mother say?
This can tough, as your mother’s highest concern is not whether you wear your hair in its natural state but that you look great, are well respected, and have all of the opportunities you deserve. All of these things take confidence and care. Rock your best natural styles by doing diligent research and proper care. Your mother will fall in love with the hair she and your father gave you. She may even start asking you how to care for her natural hair.While there are many concerns that arise when wearing your natural hair, we hope to take a few off your list. Be free, have fun, and let’s continue the quest of understanding and loving our natural hair.
What is sebum?
Sebaceous glands are found all over the body except on the palms, soles, top of the feet, and the lower lip. Sebum is a liquid substance of lipids or fats made up of a combination of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen and can be derived from plant and animal sources. According to a Sebum Overview by Mary Salisbury, “Sebum contains a variety of different lipids, including cholesterol, glycerides, fatty acids, squalene, and wax and cholesterol esters, but the exact composition of sebum varies with a person’s age.”
The regulation of sebum is necessary for optimal performance. Too little sebum will leave the hair and scalp dry. When this occurs, additional oils are necessary for regulation. Natural, organic selections like coconut oil are highly recommended. Jojoba oil is the closest to natural scalp sebum and is also a prized remedy. For more benefits add some drops of tea tree oil into your jojoba oil or coconut oil. This oil is known for its antiseptic, antibacterial, and antifungal properties. Dry scalp leaves the hair follicles malnourished and will eventually lead to breakage.
Too much sebum could cause greasy or oily hair and scalp, which many consider unflattering and could present the onset of a scalp condition called seborrhea. Excessive sebum can eventually harden and cause hair loss. When sebum production is at an all time high, tea tree oil can also help to regulate by unclogging the follicles. The cause of this excess sebum or lack thereof could be hormonal. Changes in stress levels or high hormonal changes like a menstrual cycle, pregnancy, or menopause could be the culprit. However, sometimes the natural condition of your scalp is a matter of genetics and must be treated topically and/or internally. For extreme cases, schedule to see a local dermatologist.
Importance of Cleansing
An appropriate shampoo along with regular scalp massage and moderate brushing or combing one’s hair to spread the oil will also help with overproduction and underproduction of the sebaceous glands. A nourishing, gentle shampoo is in order for providing an appropriate amount of nutrients to the hair and scalp for increased regularity. However some have often questioned how can we know which cleansers are good? Can shampoo overly cleanse, stripping the scalp?
Owner and Founder of CURLS, Mahisha Dellinger, explains the mystery behind choosing a good shampoo and warns against scalp stripping: “Yes, you can strip the hair and scalp of its natural oil, sebum. This is common when using sulfate-based cleansers and alcohol based stylers that dry out the hair/scalp.” When asked what is so unique about CURLS cleansers, Dellinger responds, “Rather than harsh, drying additives, CURLS cleansers uses organic extracts like pineapple and grapefruit extracts, carrot seed oil, other natural elements that speak the language of curly hair which tends to be drier.”
How Do You Know When Your Hair & Scalp are Stripped?
Your scalp will feel parched and squeaky. For dry hair this is extra harmful, as it will only increase your dryness. Oily scalps could also be stripped of their sebum, which will cause their scalp to overly produce more oil in an effort to counteract. Dellinger recommends both dry and oily scalp concerns to regularly use a mild, sulfate-free cleanser with organic nourishing elements for regular cleansing. The purpose of a moisturizing cleanser is to remove the excess dirt and debris from the hair and scalp without taking away all the scalp’s goodness. Excessive oily scalps will benefit from utilizing a nourishing, clarifying shampoo once every eight weeks.
People with scalp challenges must be wise in their lifestyle and product selection. Watch how the shampoo you currently use is affecting you hair and scalp and if it is time to make a change, go for it. In search for a gentle shampoo? Check out the Top 30 sulfate-free shampoos.
What are your favorite gentle shampoos?
What are toxins?
The Nemours Foundation describes body toxins as “a chemical or poison that is known to have harmful effects on the body. Toxins can come from food or water, from chemicals used to grow or prepare food, and even from the air that we breathe. Our bodies process those toxins through organs like the liver and kidneys and eliminates them in the form of sweat, urine, and feces.”
Although our bodies have a process for extracting the toxins, our modern lifestyle is overly bombarded with these previously mentioned toxins, as well as those created and held within the body by stress. Such high levels of toxicity require additional support for the body to regain its balance.
How can they affect us?
Toxins can upset the homeostasis or equilibrium of the body. This equilibrium is responsible for the rhythm and balance of the bodily functions. Toxins can slow down these processes like constipation or speed them up like diarrhea. This irregularity in the body is a breeding ground for disease. Therefore, proper regulation and detoxification treatments are necessary to bring one’s body back into a healthy balance based on the degree of irregularity in one’s body.
What can we do about this?
Knowing where your buildup of toxins comes from is the first step. Take a detailed look at the food you ingest, products you apply, and medicines you consume, your stress levels, and activity or lack thereof. All of these factors and more contribute to an overall healthy balance of the body. Once you know where they come from, work to eliminate avoidable toxins from your life. These can more specifically include toxic cleaning supplies, beauty products, stress, lack of sleep, caffeine, alcohol, cigarettes, refined sugar, processed foods, and saturated fats.
Diane Kaye has made her life’s work about teaching and freeing people from harsh chemicals that could potentially wreck havoc on you and your loved ones. She began her small company Terressentials to offer an alternative, organic means to accomplish our most necessary tasks of life. According to Kaye, the tale of toxins is a life or death issue:
“Therefore we at Terressentials go through excessive lengths to become USDA Certified Organic to create pure products for the common man. This certification requires 538 pages of organic standards to uphold. We only use distilled water, clean with our own soap and sanitizer that we use, and make of our own extracts. We have an annual inspection and keep records for a minimum of 5 years. When it comes to personal care, if you don’t see the USDA Certified Organic seal, the words organic and natural don’t mean a thing.”
This truly is important especially when considering what personal care product to use. Some would argue that personal care products are only created for topical use and have no way of entering the bloodstream through the skin or scalp. However, when asked about this theory, Diana Kay referenced the Stanford University’s study of mice that were given a vaccine through shampoo, resulting in successful vaccination through the hair follicles. Kay states, “If shampoo could administer medicine through the hair follicle, that is how easy and quickly toxins are absorbed in through the hair follicle. Not only is the scalp a thick layer of skin, but we also have oil glands throughout, in the same area of the hair follicle. Beneath the scalp are capillaries, very much like a hair net of veins below the surface; the perfect tunnel to get tons of chemicals into your body quickly!”
What can we do about these toxins?
- Use products from companies that are USDA Certified Organic. You can check the website of the company to see if they hold the certification or you can ask the company manufacturer to send you verification of their certificate.
- Adjust your lifestyle, including exercise to naturally speeds up the body’s detoxifying process. Keep stress levels low and drink plenty of distilled water. Terressentials offers a detoxifying hair wash from the bentonite clay family. The “swelling” clay absorbs the toxins from your hair and scalp and holds it in the clay where it stays forever. Regularly cleansing with this level of organic detoxifying products will help to keep your body in a healthy homeostasis.
Living an organic lifestyle may not prevent every harmful disease there is, but it can provide a greater chance at maintaining your body’s natural defenses against outside attacks on the body. Diana Kaye is also cancer survivor. Her company, Terressentials is dedicated to teaching the greater community how to live a cleaner lifestyle.
Is living a clean lifestyle important to you?
- Masque/Mask – a varied spelling of the word “mask” essentially means to cover, hide or conceal a thing. A costume mask, cosmetic skin facial mask, for example. –
- Treatment – an application of remedies, or an intervention for a matter. Such as treatment for an addiction or other medical treatment.
- Deep Conditioner – a substance or cosmetic, applied to something to improve its condition.
When referencing the hair, you could infer that a hair masque conceals damage, weakness, and other inconsistencies regarding the integrity of the hair. A treatment implies the presence of a problem; the treatment therefore acts as the solution or intermediary. The definition for deep conditioner improves the current condition of the hair.
Based on defining the words, there are key similarities and a few differences between the different meanings. If product companies stayed true to the meaning of the words, each formula would indeed be at least a little different. Checking in with a leading product developing corporation, Mansfield King, Tim Lehman explains the development process:
“The difference in these formulas (deep conditioner, treatment, masque”> differs from brand to brand. At Mansfield King, we utilize a customized approach for each item we create. For a reparative formula with long lasting effects requires us to come up with unique formula that meets the specified desires of the company owner. Therefore each formula is created intentionally. We have a unique perspective in that we understand that we’re not just making products. I can sum it up in this way: It’s not the equivalent of cancer therapy, but it impacts people’s intricate lives, changing people’s perception of beauty and personal experience.”
So whether or not we understand the true meaning of these words, does not guarantee the product companies agree on the given definitions and the results are virtually up to their discretion. It is however in the companies’ best interest to label or market their product based on what results the product will deliver. High performing companies are well aware of this. With that in mind, here are some examples from each genre. Consider these unique qualities and features when deciding which is for you.
Camille Rose Naturals Algae Deep Conditioner
Deep Conditioner– Typical formulas are water based and enriched with fatty alcohols, vitamins, and other nourishing elements. The results of a deep conditioner are longer-lasting than a regular conditioner and can typically be used no more than once every 4-7 days.
Claim: Hand-mixed with amazing blue green algae, which is rich in vitamin B and helps to improve hair cell regrowth, resulting in thicker, stronger, longer hair. Plus, it will soften and moisturize dry, moisture-craving hair giving it the care and love it needs to have body and shine, naturally.
Carol’s Daughter Marula Mask
Mask– A hair mask is typically ultra-conditioning. Its consistency is generally much thicker than a deep conditioner and is typically instructed to be left on the hair for 15-30 minutes.Claim: We love when our curls bounce, shine, and flow freely, but they get a bad reputation when they start misbehaving, naturally becoming dry, hard, and unmanageable. Take control and train them to spiral into perfection, staying soft, manageable, and easy to define. Give them the extra moisture they need with this rejuvenating Hair Mask that’s packed with marula—a rich oil harvested for 12,000 years in Madagascar that instantly restores and softens your curls. Finally, you can truly let go and let curls flow.
Ouidad 12 minute Deep Treatment Intensive Repair
Treatment– This the widely used term in professional product lines and is typically used to infer a high quality product with exotic, high caliber ingredients with stellar results. Often used when severe damage is present and is often used in products that affect issues of the scalp and innermost parts of the hair fiber.Claim: Effectively penetrates hair to bond with the cuticle, leaving hair revived and restructured for enhanced performance. The must-have product for all hair types! With 21 amino acids, deep treatment is like food for hair—you have to eat to survive and so does your hair. It’s packed with both moisturizing and restructuring proteins that go into the hair shaft and rebuild the internal molecular layer, allowing hair to regain its own internal weight and replenish moisture. Your curls will be softer, healthier, and more manageable. Deep Treatment is also a great color preserver and will help your haircut to last longer.
According to Rachel Newman, account executive with Moroccan Oil, creator of the Moroccan Oil masks, says,” Depending on the purpose of the deep conditioner, mask or treatment it is possible that they can do the same thing. They all provide nourishment, but it is usually labeled according to the degree of that particular remedy.”
Conclusion
All of these labeled products claim to make your hair better than when you started. However, choose the best one for you to prevent further damage to your current issue. Before making a choice on which is for you, take a look at your current need and match it with the product label details that are speaking the language of your current hair challenge.
Do you notice a difference? Which one are you more inclined to purchase?
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Start with Your Purpose
Knowing why you want your hair cut is the best place to begin. Most people cut their hair for one of these reasons:
- Change the shape or movement of the hair
- Remove damaged ends
- Maintain their current haircut
So where does wet or dry cutting come in? Why do some stylists have one preference over the other? Let’s check in with some highly respected professionals to get a thorough understanding.
Dry Cutting
Cutting hair dry, regardless of the texture, allows the stylist to see the hair as the client styles themselves on a regular basis. Cutting the hair dry allows the stylist and the client to see the hair take shape as it is being cut rather than waiting until after the blowout to see the end result. Most known for their dry curly cuts is the Devachan Salon, the creator of the DevaCut- curly hair cutting technique. Vice President of Education Molly Owen helps us to understand why they cut hair dry:
“There are considerable differences- and enormous benefits- of cutting curly hair dry in its natural state. Individual curl behavior, including shape and spring, is much more visible when hair is dry. Cutting wet hair robs a stylist of this important reality. Cutting dry allows the stylist to create shape while customizing for the individual in the chair and each individual curl on the head!” – Molly Owen, VP of Education for DevaCurl.
Wet Cutting
Wet cutting allows the hair to show its true colors. You know, it is like that moment when you straighten your textured hair and then the rain brings a torrential downpour. The rain gives away your hair’s true nature. With wet hair you can see the varying textures and unique qualities. Stylists choose to cut hair wet for a variety of beneficial reasons. Wet cutting can allow the stylist to see how the hair naturally behaves, and depending on the hair type, wet cutting allows the stylists to have better control of the hair. Toby Vernay, director of education of Pura Vida Salon and Spa, makes the differences clear:
“Both wet cutting and dry cutting techniques have a place and purpose in shaping hair. Both can be and are beneficial. Neither are damaging to the hair if properly executed. Either technique can be used on the same shape, depending on the coarseness and density of the hair. Cutting dry allows the hair to be in its true form, thus allowing the cutter to judge the shape better. Cutting while wet allows the hair to stretch and bend which can distort the shape in the finished style. Of course a well-versed haircutter will know how to avoid this undesirable result and be able to utilize wet cutting to its full potential. One important note is that when texturizing a shape with texturizing shears, wet texturizing takes out more hair, while dry texturizing takes out less. Some hair cutters prefer one or the other, but I believe that to be a matter of style rather than function. I personally prefer a combination of both techniques on each shape that I cut.”The Wrap Up
The best choice for you has everything to do with the unique hair type of the client as well as the desired outcome of the haircut. Remember to have a detailed consultation with your stylist to communicate your needs and allow them to convey their recommendations. From there the decision is yours!
Have you received a wet or dry cut on your curly hair?
The Salon’s Place in Culture
The history of the beauty salon will always hold a high significance. Even today when we step into a beauty salon (based on the salon”> we feel at home, safe, and have sense of peace. However, these lovely feelings are not consistent for every salon you enter, and in the past decade or so women have spoken out about it, which has caused shifts in the common view of professional stylists. Some licensed stylists are incapable of servicing their clientele due to inadequate education, training, and experience.
The Negative Connotation
This has shed a negative light on the industry as a whole. Horror stories have surfaced about women going into a salon and waiting hours before services are rendered. You often hear of horrendous hair color gone wrong, curly hair controversy, and edges under siege by braiding salons. Despite the negative realities of the industry, plenty of salons and spas have produced favorable results to consumers and continue to provide a luxurious experience with functional outcomes. The truth is, this industry is not simply about lavish living and physical indulgence. It is also about maintenance and manageability. The beauty industry, particularly salons and stylists, are statistically valued by Americans. It is evident in their survival of the recent recession. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, “Overall employment of barbers, hairdressers, and cosmetologists is projected to grow 13 percent from 2012 to 2022.” The hair care industry has stood strong through the recession and shows no signs of slow growth for the future.
However, the shift in the trusted, professional image of the cosmetologist is being challenged. Some major concerns about professional cosmetologists are poor customer service and results, which makes a definitive impact on every industry. As told professional speaker on customer service Steph Hyken says, “In a positive economy, 70% of Americans are willing to spend an average of 13% more with companies they believe provide excellent customer service. 78% of consumers have bailed on a transaction or not made an intended purchase because of poor customer service.”
Enter the YouTube Guru
On the other hand, the onset of YouTube has made many women resort to their computer for self-taught healthy hairdressing. The hair tutorials on YouTube are growing exponentially, at a parallel shift in the cosmetologist industry. When the natural hair movement gained momentum, most colleges of cosmetology did not teach curly hair care. Therefore, in some communities the clients were at a loss and were forced to choose online education. As we have come to increase our respect for the YouTube Gurus for haircare, it is important to remember that there are times when a professional opinion is essential to care for certain hair and scalp challenges.
Tamika Fletcher, expert in curly hair care, advocate of the DIY lifestyle, and cofounder of Natural Resources Salon, gives insight to this matter: “In some cases, professional training and experience is no competition for popularity. I love that we are sharing so much information freely and I am excited to see people taking charge of their beauty at home, but professional advice is still important for hair care. Both are needed, we just need to know where to go for solutions. Sometimes searching for answers online for a scalp or thinning hair issue will cost you valuable time.”
So do we still think professional stylists are devalued? Maybe, maybe not. The answer is relative. There are needs for online education and professional consultations. Beauty professionals must continue to educate themselves and provide a high quality service and a favorable experience. However, when a client is beyond their reach they should forward their concerns onto another’s expertise and the same applies for bloggers and vloggers. But most importantly, the consumers must educate themselves on what is best for them. Scalp concerns or thinning hair are concerns that should advised by a trichologist or dermatologist. The trimming of the ends, and/or deep formulated conditioning treatments should arguably be left to a licensed beautician. Be sure to do your research when choosing a professional. Seek reviews and word of mouth testimonies to endorse your selection.
The beauty industry is vast, and with the change of the times it includes DIY bloggers and vloggers along with the licensed cosmetologists. The truth is that we are all on the same side, with the mission to help people maintain their image while making them feel valued. Therefore, as we foresee clients that fall through the cracks, we should all commit to referring the consumer to the correct professionals. Our collective efforts will communicate what high value should be placed on every facet of this growing industry.
So what do you think, can the entire beauty industry find a way to work together?
Nature of Curly Hair
Like straight hair, curly hair is also made up of keratin protein composed of long chains of amino acids. The complex bundle of protein, fatty acids, and water molecules make up the hair strand coated with protective cuticle layers to guard the inner workings from external stimuli. However, curly hair differs in the shape of its hair follicle, which could be oval or oblong for example. YouBeauty says that curly hair could also grow from the follicle at unique angles when compared to straight hair. Finally curly hair follows narrow to wide spiral patterns that make up an individual’s curl pattern. At each twist and turn in the curl pattern lies what Pantene would call a high spot or the critical point of each curvature that leaves the cuticle slightly raised. According to Pantene’s Curly Hair Science review, “When the cuticles are lifted, the internal structure becomes exposed, leaving the hair weak.” This explains then need for extra conditioning and TLC when handling curly hair.
2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioners
Traditional shampoo formulas have hydrophobic cleansing agents or surfactants that bind to the dirt and oil on the hair. They also have a hydrophilic portion that allows the oil to be swept away with the water. Traditional conditioning formulas are known to have cationic charge, a positive charge that attracts to the negative charge of the hair. This allows conditioning elements to attract and bind to the hair. 2-in-1 shampoo-conditioner duos have both of these elements in one bottle. Robert Lochhead, a pioneer in this arena, provides key insight in understandable terms: “In a 2-in-1 product, the catatonic surfactants remain suspended in all the suds while the shampoo is working to break down oils and dirt. Then, when you rinse the shampoo out, the surfactants are ‘triggered’ by the water to bind to the hair, while only the dirt and oil washes away.” Common ingredients to make this process effective are softening silicones like dimethicone and polymers like polyquaternium-10.
Do they work for your curl pattern?
The concern for curly hair lies in the ability of the 2-in-1 shampoo-conditioner duo to effectively condition your hair to the degree that your hair needs. Perfectly healthy hair with little to no damage could most likely handle this formula. Fine, damaged, or struggling hair is likely to not respond well to this formula as their main supply of nutrients for the hair. Finally, the ingredients that cause the conditioning agents to bind with the hair have also been known to create a buildup on the hair shaft. Here is a way to look at how this formula will affect you.
- Coily– If your hair has a lot of twists and turns or opportunities of weak points within the cuticle layers, then you need an ultra conditioning formula that the 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioning duo most likely cannot do.
- Curly– Still a type with many twists and turns, you will need to analyze your hair’s texture to see its level of conditioning needs. However buildup would be a problem for curly hair, as it can temporarily disrupt the movement of the hair.
- Wavy– A looser texture means more moisture retention so the level of conditioning in a 2-in-1 conditioning duo might be a great fit! Unfortunately this hair type is very effected by buildup on the hair shaft and would require frequent clarifying shampoos.
Closing
Cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson says that 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioning duo may get you through on a vacation or other brief period of life may be ok for your hair. However, it may not be your bread and butter formula for optimal curly hair care. For best results, look for a shampoo with an accompanying conditioning formula that specifically addresses your hair care needs.
Do you use any 2-in-1 cleansing and conditioning products?
What does this have to do with your hair?
We know that a healthy body is the precursor to healthy hair. Fatty acids, in conjunction with other essential wellness elements, work together to build and sustain a healthy body, the precursor to healthy hair. Therefore, consuming fatty acids help to form the building blocks for strong hair as it grows. Through hair care products, fatty acids are applied topically to support the hair and the products as stabilizers, surfactants, emulsifiers, and opacifying agents.
- Emulsifiers are used for combining two different fluids into an emulsion to make a dissolved mixture.
- A stabilizer improves and helps to maintain the stability and shelf life of dispersions.
- Opacifying agents reduce the clear or transparent appearance of cosmetic products, according to Cosmetic Info.
- Surfactant cleansing agents like stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic clean skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away, according to Cosmetic Info.
Where are they found?
Some are produced through the body and others like Omega-3 and Omega-6 must be derived through outside sources like fish, flaxseed , or walnuts, as they are not naturally produced by our bodies the way Omega-9 is. Fatty acids are found in oils and other fats from different foods. They are an important part of a healthy diet because the body needs them for several purposes. They help move oxygen through the bloodstream to all parts of the body, aid in cell strength, function, and development, and are necessary for the support of strong organs and tissues. The body could not function without them. Externally they keep the skin healthy and moisturized. Internally they help with digestion and metabolism and support healthy weight loss. Another important function of fatty acids is its role in hormone production and the regulation of blood pressure, blood clotting, inflammation, and immune response in the body.
Of course too much of a good thing can have side effects; high levels of fatty acids can cause problems. “The dysfunctional immune response to excessive omega-3 fatty acid consumption can affect the body’s ability to fight microbial pathogens, like bacteria,” says Associate Professor Norman Hord at OSU’s College of Public Health and Human Sciences. However, research is still in development. He further explains, “As is all true with any nutrient, taking too much can have negative effects. We need to establish clear biomarkers through clinical trials. This is necessary in order for us to know who is eating adequate amounts of these nutrients and who may be deficient or eating too much.”
Both cosmetics companies and consumers are pleased with the benefits of fatty acids for the hair and body. Internally they nourish our bodies from the inside out to produce beautiful hair and skin alike. Topically they support product development by facilitating an appropriate appearance of products, dissolving emulsions to prevent separation, and protect our products from bacterial and fungal growth.
The most popular fatty acid derivatives are:
- hard animal fats
- fish
- coconut oil
- palm kernel
- sesame
- soybean
- sunflower
- corn
- cottonseed
- olive
Feed your body inside and out with fatty acids and let your hair reflect the many enhancements.
References
http://www.tdx.cat/bitstream/handle/10803/8595/10.pdf?sequence=13
What a mystery the scalp has been for years. Different cultures have used various methods to treat their unknown scalp challenges. Fabulous and Frugal says that Indian women are known to conduct consistent coconut oil treatments on their hair and scalp. A common Indian ritual consists of heating up organic extra virgin coconut oil mixed with curry leaves or other herbs and massaging it into the hair and scalp, followed by braiding the hair at night and cleansing in the morning, up to three times per week. The African-American culture began consistently applying pomade to the scalp in attempt to protect their hair from dryness and fungus. Today, these practices may or may not be done as often. The product market has taken notice and formulated more scalp treatments, exfoliants, scrubs, and cleansers than ever before. Should we go back to these practices or simply move forward with more current remedies to fit meet our modern need?
It’s Hard for Your Crown
We most certainly know that the crown of the head is the area that receives the most attention. The environmental elements (i.e. sun, wind, and rain”> give the crown the biggest beat down than any other area of our heads; not to mention sleeping on the back of our heads or resting on the car seat headrests. In fact, babies struggle at the crown from lying in their cribs and baby carriers. Our trendy styling processes can also affect the crown. Women love to wear their hair at the crown of their head and when not careful, bobby pins can lodge there and create havoc on the scalp over time. Other styles like braids and twists can add to the tenderness of the crown area. Trichologist Lavon Morrow at Dimensions Trichology Center explains that, “There is no one single reason that one has a tender scalp. There are many influencers that must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. Tenderness could be caused by scalp trauma, hair practices, and hormonal imbalances, or otherwise. The wellness of the body directly affects the hair and the scalp and these processes are complex and much more scientific than one would imagine.”
The Proof is in the Practice
Is there any science to support a distinctive difference in the crown area? According to Morrow, “Yes, that is why male pattern baldness primarily affects that area versus the occipital area where the tissues are less responsive.” Studies continue to be done on the subject. His Hair Clinic further explains the process of Male Pattern Baldness: “It is not clear why different hair follicles are affected at different times to make the balding process gradual, or why follicles around the hairline and crown are more susceptible to this effect, known as miniaturization.”
While we do not know the many causes that disrupt the crown, it is apparent that this area requires extra attention and delicate care. For starters, follow an adequate hair care regimen that includes consistent cleansing and conditioning.
- Cleansing daily or weekly, based on your lifestyle, and pay close attention. Choose a shampoo with natural, gentle ingredients. Strong chemicals may be too harsh on your scalp and visible reactions may be delayed. Rinse thoroughly.
- Conditioning should immediately follow. Look for products with nourishing emollients, enriching oils, and fatty acids to entrap moisture into your hair. If your scalp is excessively dry, apply the conditioner to your scalp and rinse thoroughly.
Shining Your Crown
Westerners have looked to Ayurvedic medicine for hair and scalp practices due to its holistic approach. Men and women who follow Ayurvedic principals for their hair and scalp report successful remedies that are worth sharing. The most prized practice is an Ayurvedic scalp massage. However, if no serious conditions are present, common scalp remedies include DIY scalp mask or an over-the-counter scalp treatment.
Ayurvedic Scalp Massage
by Jiva.com
Massaging the scalp and hair with warm oil, preferably infused with hair-friendly herbs (alma brahmi”>, is the best way to nourish the scalp and hair topically. Massaging helps to increase blood flow to the hair follicles and supports the growth of healthy hair. It is especially beneficial for dry hair, as the increased circulation facilitates production of natural oil thus restoring lost luster.
DIY Scalp Treatment
- Take about 4 tablespoons of softened coconut oil; mix with 2-4 (depending on sensitivity”> drops tea tree oil, and 3-4 drops of rosemary oil.
- Apply to dry hair with a scalp treatment bristle brush in circular motions.
- Massage the oil into your scalp.
- Finish it off with a good shampoo and conditioner.
OTC Scalp Treatment
- Jessicurl Massage Oil
- My Honey Child Honey Bee Sweet Scalp Exfoliator
- Ouidad Mediterranean Bay leaf Exfoliating Hair and Scalp Treatments
Assess your scalp to see which method would be suited for your crown and seek professional attention if possible. “If you have a consistent occurrence of tender, dry, or even oily scalp, see a certified trichologist for a full consultation which includes an exam, tests, and information gathered which are used to determine the root cause of the condition.” – Lavonn Morrow, Dimensions Trichology Center.
[prodmod]How do you care for your crown?
Your individual elasticity is based on many factors beginning with the density of each hair strand. If you have thick hair, you can expect a higher level of elasticity compared to fine hair.
Quick elasticity test
For a quick measure of your hair’s elasticity level, wet your hair and select four strands hair from four different sections of hair. Stretch each section and monitor to see if it breaks, stretches a bit, or stretches up to 50% and then returns to its original state.
- Low – If the hair has a hard time stretching or does not return to normal, it has a low level of elasticity.
- Normal – If it stretches a bit and then returns to its natural state then you have a normal elasticity level.
- High – High elasticity is characterized by stretching at or above 50% of its resting length and it then bouncing back to its normal state.
A look below the surface
Beneath the cuticle lie the two inner layers of the hair shaft. The intricate insides are the medulla, where color is determined, and the cortex, where the bulk of hair’s weight is attributed. These layers are made of hard protein (i.e. keratin”> made up of long chains of amino acids held together by peptide bonds containing water molecules interactions. According to Texas Collaborative, “The average composition of normal hair is composed of 45.2% carbon, 27.9% oxygen, 6.6% hydrogen, 15.1% nitrogen and 5.2a% sulphur.”
For this reason, it is important for hair to have a balance of strength and moisture (H2O”> for healthy elasticity levels. The keratin is needed for the hair not to break when stretched, while the moisture is necessary for allowing the hair to mold, stretch, and return.
According to chemist Tonya McKay, “Hair elasticity is heavily dependent upon two key factors: 1″> Hydrogen bonding between water molecules and keratin strands and 2″> disulfide bonds between adjacent cysteine amino acid groups, both of which are dependent upon preservation of the protein structure and hydration of the cortex. The best approach to ensure excellent elasticity is to maintain an intact protein structure inside the cortex and an adequate level of hydration.”
Is it too late to improve your elasticity?
Healthy elasticity cannot exist when there is an imbalance caused by chemical damage, heat damage, harsh handling, excessive water contact (hygral fatigue”>, excessive dryness, or lack of care. Such treatment will leave the bonds vulnerable and weak. All bonds within the hair can contribute to your hair’s elasticity.
Knowing the inner elasticity is determined by the strength of the protein and amount of water molecules within the matrix of the hair shaft; hair must have a consistent supply of protein sustaining amino acids and hydration. Katrina Mallard, Veteran Salon Owner and Master Stylist sheds light on what is important, “When the cysteine bonds, also known as disulfide bonds are broken due to chemicals like relaxers, color, permanent waves, etc., the elasticity is stretched causing the hair to become fragile and break. Reconstructive treatments like Affirm Fiber guard, Dudley’s protein treatment, etc., are used to repair the damage. The length of time required for treatment follows this rule: However long it took for your hair to become damaged multiply that by two for correction.”
For excessive damage, a consultation with a hair care specialist may be in order. With the combination of systematic treatments using high performing products you can see improvements, which help maintain your hair. However, based on the damage, the hair may never return to its natural elasticity.
Preventative measures
The best way to treat loss of elasticity is to prevent it. Shy away from excessive chemical treatments, limit heat, and UV exposure, sleep on a satin pillowcase, use a pre shampoo treatment, deep condition regularly, and handle with care.
Can you guess what the first ingredient in most hair products is? Water!
If you have considered these questions in relation to your own personal hair care regimen, you have come to the right place. Let’s dive in!
Reading the labels
In the cosmetic industry there are certain guidelines that must be followed to keep communication clear between brands and consumers. It is a requirement to use the common names of ingredients. For example, an appropriate label would be fragrance rather than parfum. Other alternatives will not be accepted as substitutes. However, “FDA does not object to their use in parentheses following the common name in English or the official language for that region. For examples, water (aqua”>, honey (mel”>, or sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis“> oil.”
In other words “water is water,” but if a product company has gone to greater lengths to disclose specific details about what type of water it contains, they must believe it to be beneficial to the consumer regarding its topical effect or its marketing effect. Therefore it is worth taking a closer look at their benefits.
Distilled water
This process uses evaporation and condensation techniques to remove impurities. When distilled correctly, the water should contain only oxygen and hydrogen molecules, have a pH level of 7, and contain no other minerals, contaminants, or gases. According to Ehow, distilled water is considered purer than deionized water.
Deionized water
Deionized literally means to remove ions from a solution using an ion-exchange process. These ions include such things as copper, calcium, sodium, bromide, and other minerals. Ehow says that water is placed in a negatively charged resin. The resin attracts minerals, removing them from the water. The use of this water is vast. Common uses include medicine, making electronics, and other manufactured products. Although the water has been purified, it does not have any affect upon bacteria or other viruses.
Purified water
A very broad term that consumers often interpret as the purest form of water. Purified water denotes a process by which contaminants and minerals have been removed from a source of water. Tap water for example is considered purified, as it has gone through a water treatment process.
Coconut water
While the benefits of coconut oil and water on the hair are staggering, there is limited research that substantiates coconut water being a preferred water contributor to a hair product. In fact, you typically see another form of water in conjunction with coconut water in common cosmetic products. Nonetheless coconut’s benefits include taming frizz, increasing blood circulation, promoting hair growth, and relief of infection and fungal infections.
Hard water
Hard water is water with high mineral content that over time will leave traces of film on the hair; similar to calcium deposits left on a showerhead, resulting in dry, brittle, heavy hair. Soft water on the other hand has fewer minerals but can leave the hair feeling mushy and flat.
Why does it matter?
Hair holds a negative charge
Hard metal ions found in water are positively charged. Positive and negative charges are attracted to one another. Therefore the hard water’s metal ions will attach itself to the most negative charged areas of the hair, which happens to be the damaged areas. This will affect your shampoo and conditioning treatments, as the minerals in the water will create a barrier between the hair and the product. For this reason product companies have tried to add purer forms of water to their products to prevent this effect.
Cosmetic chemists have your back
But there is one thing we must not forget. If your shampoo is made up of one of the purified forms of water, yet the water in your home is mineralized, then that soft water-based product will not do as much good. Cosmetic chemists know the perils of soft and hard water. Many have taken the consumers’ home water source into account while making a product that can perform well regardless of the water’s purity.
Take it from Thomas Lehman, a representative of Mansfield-King Manufacturing. “From a cosmetic chemist perspective, our water is bottled water quality. We do that at Mansfield because ‘bottled water’ tends to produce consistent and predictable results. If we were to add something of ‘higher purity’, to make a ‘better product,’ we need to make sure the water will not impact the performance once it leaves us. Our products are consistent from batch to batch.”
Before you buy a water treatment kit…
Before running to Home Depot to purchase that expensive water treatment kit for your entire home, it may be best to go with a product that works well with your hair, in your unique environment, as your geographic location determines the mineral content in your water. Companies that formulate quality products will keep in mind the types of water the average consumer has within their home and will tailor the products around that.
Expert recommendation
According to Lehman, there is a time to look closer at your water sources. “If you are around hard water every now and then, it will not have a major impact on your hair, but consistent use over a long period of time will make an impact. It can make your hair feel dry. Therefore if you have a consistent challenge within your beauty care regimen and have done all you can to remedy the problem, a need for softer water may be something you can look into.”
