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Novex: The Brazilian Product for Dry Hair

Although well known for their appreciation of beauty, there is still more to know about Brazilian hair care. You may be familiar with Brazilian keratin treatments, but that is merely one treatment of the country’s beauty practices. There are many more nuggets of goodness that Brazilian women can share with us like NOVEX, a hair product company manufactured by Embelleze Rio Brazilian Secrets. Although I have used many of their products, I recently took a dive into their Bamboo Sprout Collection. Bamboo is known by Brazilians for its fatty acid and high protein content, great for adding moisture and strength to the hair. Take a peek!

Read more: Why Women are Using Dominican Products

Novex representative Jennifer Garcia touts: “Our hair products are for all hair types and originally manufactured in Brazil. The formulas are made from natural ingredients like argan oil, olive oil and bamboo sprout. One of our lines uses keratin to strengthen and moisturize the hair.”

Bamboo Sprout Shampoo

  1. Aqua
  2. Sodium laureth sulfate– this is derived from coconut oil and used an effective cleansing agent.
  3. Cocamidopropyl betaine– a conditioning agent of fatty acids derived from coconut oil
  4. Lauramide DEA– conditioning agent of fatty acids
  5. PEG 14M– moisture attracting humectant
  6. Cetyl alcohol– emulsifying agent and nourishing emollient from an organic alcohol of animal or plant origin

Bamboo Sprout Conditioner

  1. Aqua
  2. Cetearyl alcohol– fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener
  3. Petrolatum–  hair conditioning agent derived from petroleum
  4. ZEA mays starch– viscosity agent from corn oil
  5. Cetrimonium chloride– emulsifying agent
  6. Hydroxyethyl urea- moisture attracting humectant

Extra Deep Hair Care Cream

  1. Aqua
  2. Cetearyl alcohol- fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener
  3. Petrolatum- hair conditioning agent derived from petroleum
  4. Zea mays starch- viscosity agent from corn oil
  5. Cetrimonium chloride- emulsifying agent
  6. Hydroxyethyl urea -moisture attracting humectant

Amazon reviews

  • Shiloh: “I wash my hair twice a week, and use this along with the brotu de bamboo shampoo. I’ve never found any product that’s able to keep my very dry, thick, long hair moisturized and soft. My hair is also extremely prone to knots, and this is the best product I’ve ever used in terms of keeping my hair from tangling. Brazil truly has the monopoly on beauty products. Nothing in the United States compares! Highly recommended.”
  • Denise Snipes: “Love Embelleze Novex Bamboo Sprout Hair care. I alternate it with Novex Recovering Mix. My hair looks great. Less breakage, soft, manageable, and moisturized. Love it!!”
  • Coralcandy: “The product came in perfect condition from the seller. This conditioner is definitely my favorite deep conditioner! It’s super moisturizing and provides enough slip to comb through my tightly curly hair very easily.”

About the Company

Novex of Embelleze Rio is not just another basic international hair product company.  Established on March 8th, 1969, the International Women’s Day in Rio De Janiero, Embelleze is a strong symbol of women’s empowerment in its country. Celebrating beauty and confidence is their work as the leader in the South American hair industry.

Novex is not going anywhere and word on the street is that they are launching a new line for CURLY hair called “My Curls!”  Stay tuned for more on curls from the beautiful land of Brazil.

Have used any Novex products?

3 Things You Need to Know About Your Locs, with Dr. Kari

Receiving quality advice for loc maintenance can feel like digging for a needle in a haystack. It is extremely difficult to know who to listen to and what advice to take. To save you some trouble we have teamed up with renowned educator and trichologist Dr. Kari Williams to know what is best to do for locs. If you are considering having locs installed or you are a loctician yourself, this is for you!

Know What Products to Use

One highly controversial topic is what to put on your locs. Is wax or another styler ok? Are pure oils better or loc butters? And are there any ingredients to avoid may be some of your questions. Here’s an answer according to Dr. Kari Williams:

“Due to the density of locs, they have the tendency to hold onto a lot of unclean smells and grime. Therefore it’s important to choose products that won’t sit in the hair and create more buildup. Heavy creams, wax (bees wax”>, alcohol-based gels and hair sprays should be avoided in the maintenance of locs. These products attract dirt and debris and are difficult to remove from the hair. I definitely recommend pure natural oils and butters. These types of products have the ability to penetrate the loc, adding moisture, shine, and increasing the overall health of the loc. Lubricating locs on a regular basis is very important because the ends of the locs are the oldest parts of the hair and includes strands that are no longer connected to the scalp. Without regular lubrication, the ends of the locs can become excessively dry and begin to break off.  I have created two (2″> revitalizing oils to address the hair and scalp needs of my clients: Ann Carol Coconut Lavender Oil and Ann Carol Peppermint Chamomile Oil. My new blend of natural and essential oils keep locs well lubricated, help to prevent dryness and breakage of the loc, and also helps to balance out the pH of the scalp.”

Know Whether to Cleanse or Not to Cleanse

Equally questionable is the ability to shampoo or cleanse locs and the scalp during start up and post startup.  Dr. Williams chimes in to answer this concern.

“Yes! Please keep your hair clean while locking. If you do not regularly remove the dirt and build up that accumulates in the hair overtime, it will become embedded in the loc. This is why I am a big fan of the interlocking method. It is ideal for individuals who have an active lifestyle or scalp discomfort that requires frequent shampooing. Interlocking allows you to shampoo the hair on a regular basis without the concern of excessive frizzing and the need to re-twist the hair.  If you have elected to start your locs with twists, I still encourage regular shampooing. You just may have to make more frequent visits to the salon to make sure your locs do not come undone.”

Know How to Maintain Them

Fresh locs are the best locs. Once the locs have been installed, proper maintenance is key for successful development. Many people in an effort to save money will go months without maintaining their locs and hope that will not cause challenges. Similarly many people attribute locking to low maintenance and do not think it is necessary to tie the hair up. Let’s see what the expert has to say.

“If you are maintaining your locs with interlocking you can go 6-8 weeks between retouch appointments. If you are palm rolling or twisting your locs, I recommend 1-2 times a month. When sleeping, you can simply cover your hair with a bonnet or scarf.”

Each of these concerns, if not handled properly can make or break your loc goals. It is important to do the research necessary to meet the needs of your hair. If cost is of concern, ask your stylist what you can do at home to maintain your locs in between appointments. With appropriate cleansing, conditioning, and maintenance techniques like these you can absolutely obtain the look you desire, for the long-term.

What are some of your loc concerns?

4 Ways to Start Your Locs with Dr. Kari Williams

The diversity of styles that textured hair is able to achieve is exciting, so why not explore each and every option? Join me as I dive in with Dr. Kari, trichologist and founder of Mahogany Hair Revolution Salon and Trichology Clinic, to discuss different hair locking techniques. Traditionally, locs were formed by rolling small sections of the hair in the direction of the curl pattern or counterclockwise when unsure. This technique has been tried-and-true and is one that has been passed down throughout the generations. The earliest recognition of hair locking dates all the way back to Northern Africa with the height of popularity peaking in Jamaica with Bob Marley and Rastafarianism.

Today we have multiple methods of forming locs including the free forming method, two-strand twist, comb twist, latch hook, and interlocking, all which will determine the maintenance and aesthetic of your locs as they grow.

Free-forming

Freedom to lock on its own with no additional support; traditionally tightly coiled hair is best for this practice. These are also known as organic locs. Now, let’s learn more about the different methods and how to make the best selection from Dr. Kari herself:

Interlocking

“When starting locs, I recommend the interlocking technique for my clients. Interlocking is when you take a small square, circular, or triangular section of hair that is crocheted into what looks like a round braid. The hair is locked counter-clockwise to maintain roundness and produce a look that is more consistent in size and shape throughout. No combing is required and the hair will go through the same mat and budding process as it does when the hair is twisted. The only difference is maintenance is recommended every 6-8 weeks; you can wash your hair by yourself without fear of locs coming undone. Additionally, all air pockets are removed from the loc during the interlocking process creating a smoother loc free from lumps that can sometimes form during the twisting process when hair starts to bud.”

Two-strand Twist and Comb Twist

“Two-strand twists can be used to start locs, but it’s important to know that because there are two sections of hair that are being twisted together, it may take longer for the hair to mat together, bud, and form a singular loc. Or once the loc does form, you may still be able to see the pattern of the two-strand twist in the loc. Starter locs (also called comb twists, or single-strand twists”> is the most well-known method. With both of these twisting techniques, coarser hair textures with a tighter curl pattern hold well. When it comes to choosing twisting over interlocking, it’s simply a matter of preference, but some advantages of using the interlocking tool are:

  • You don’t need beeswax or sticky solutions to hold your locs together
  • Keeps the locs in a uniform pattern, preventing unwanted joining of sections or webbing between parts
  • Tightens new growth without tension or stress (when done correctly”>
  • Allows for an active lifestyle with low maintenance
  • You can shampoo your hair between grooming and still maintain a neat look (locs won’t unravel if you shampoo your hair”>

Latch Hook

If your hair is fine or has a looser curl pattern, I recommend the interlocking method using a proper interlocking tool. Avoid metal latch-hook tools used for crocheting, because they snag and pull hairs from the scalp causing significant damage. A proper interlocking tool for the hair can be found at www.drkariwilliams.com/store.”

Should you start your own locs?

While pondering the pros and cons for each method, it is equally important to determine who should do your locs. In our DIY society, many women consider doing it themselves, soliciting the help of a friend, or seeing a salon professional.

Here’s Dr. Kari’s advises: “I recommend seeing a professional to start your locs if you are looking for a neat loc, and want to avoid the damage that can happen when locs are started incorrectly. When starting locs, you have to take into consideration, the density of the hair, curl pattern, and hair texture. All of these factors are important to determine the size of the base for the loc and pattern.”

So take these different options into consideration when plunging into a long-term commitment of hair locking. If no maintenance and a natural look is what you are looking for, free forming might be your choice. If you have patience and want a tried-and-true method with ease, you could try the counter-clockwise palm roll. If a neat, clean look is your preference in little time, latch hook might be for you. For more information on latch look locs and tools, visit Dr. Kari Williams.

Photo credits

Pictured: Dr. Kari Williams

Hair: @anncarolbeauty

Stylist: @neishea

Makeup: @missdrini

Photographer: @melaninmotivations

Assistant: @rosie_candel  

The Best Professional Products, According to a Natural Hair Stylist

In my experience as a licensed cosmetologist, I have observed, used, and educated clients on many different products. While there are numerous companies with plenty of high quality products to offer, I found myself gravitating to a few lines when making recommendations to my clientele, followers, friends, and family abroad. After analyzing, I have determined that these three areas are most important when judging a professional product line. 

Diverse and more options

A product line should consider the various needs of their consumers, knowing that every woman with curly hair has different desires and needs. I love when a line has most of the items needed to complete standard hair care practices and diverse looks.

Quality and researched ingredients 

Well-researched ingredients are very important in the professional market. Clients put their trust in their stylist. Therefore, as a hairdresser I look for a line that is trustworthy and has taken the time to seek out rare ingredients as well as a company that regularly tests the formulas for high level effectiveness.

Level of education and brand interaction

Finally, education is a big word in our marketplace. While product companies are doing their part to create beautifully developed formulas, the bridge between the developer and the stylist is in their communication and interaction. Companies should go well out of their way to convey best practices for using their products that way the hairdresser can effectively communicate that to their client, whether that be through education courses, email correspondence, or social media interaction.

These are high expectations, but to thrive in this competitive market companies must strive to meet all three of these criteria, as they are essential to the consumer’s success in using the product.

My favorite professional hair care brands

Aquage

This product line provides various options and meets the needs of all hair types with the use of basic techniques. Aquage the brand has been a staple product line in high-end salons for nearly 14 years, known as the complementary hair product line that works hand in hand with major chemical service (e.g. color and permanent treatments”> and product providers. The clientele I served was very diverse in hair services and ethnicity, yet we reached for Aquage often. I have taken special note of the creative integration of ethnic diversity in their marketing, engaging all women to their brand.  Fae Harris, Director of Marketing and New product Development shares her view: “I think Aquage is the best because each product is powered by marine botanicals and we cater to hair types, textures, and styles as vast as the sea. Our styling range is second to none.”  The Aquage Academy also has a major web presence and offers exemplary training to Aquage salon professional. Not just a household name, Aquage is also a standard presence on the runway.

MoroccanOil

Most noted with consumers for a wide variety of options for straight to textured hair. Moroccan oil is keenly aware of the wants and desires of different hair types in relation to their oil-based products.  Knowing that fine strands and blonde hair can be weighed down or even discolored by oil, Moroccan Oil has taken the time and effort to create formulas that equally hydrate and repair their hair without compromise. Within the curl collection, wavy hair has the Intense Curl Cream, curly hair has the Curl Defining Cream and even thick, kinky hair has a Curl Enhancing Mousse! MoroccanOil, like Aquage and the hair from everyday wear to high fashion hair.

LRC- Lawrence-Ray Concepts

My eye caught onto this product company when I noticed it sitting in the salon of celebrity stylist Felicia Leatherwood. I have been a loyal follower to her teaching and respected her work for many years, so I thought I would look into the brand. After using I have found this brand to be thorough in their approach to hair care. The professional grade products promote healthy hair and the brand takes a unique approach by also catering to extension services as described by a LRC Representative Mike Kimani: “The natural and organic ingredients in the LRC Healthy Hair Care System causes curly hair to spring to new life, supplying the hair/scalp with power-packed protein for strength while locking in moisture.”

CURLS

Named for the clientele they serve, the CURLS Professional Hair Care Line provides stellar performing products for adults, kids and even babies. Known for its exotic, organic ingredients and social presence among the curl community, CURLS has been in my top five professional hair care brands for a long time. I have used this family brand on my own children who happen to be curly boys and many of my curly clients. Mahisha Dellinger created this line after becoming distressed about limited solutions for her own curly hair. Another unique feature about the brand is its easy accessibility for educating stylists and consumers alike. Special efforts have been offered through his brand in reaching out to serve the needs of the community including adoption agencies, women’s shelters, and other charitable causes.

My favorite products:

DevaCurl

DevaCurl has given hope to many curly-haired women, and brought excitement, joy, and a sense of confidence from interacting with this brand. Offering a plethora of products to meet vast hair care needs, DevaCurl is a top performing company. I love their marketing, packaging, and consumer education. One unique feature is the success of the Deva Tools, in particular the DevaFuser and the DevaClips, true resources needed in the curl community!

Shari Harbinger, Vice President of Education for DevaCurl chimes in: “The DevaCurl customer turns to us because they want to embrace their natural texture. Their curls embody who they are—their hairstyle speaks to personality, style, and so much more. They come to us because we’re at the center of curly conversations and we truly understand what ‘caring for curls’ means. We were the first brand to create a zero-lather conditioning cleanser that was free of damaging detergents and silicones. Instead we replaced them with gentle, hydrating ingredients that promote healthy hair. Our botanically-infused products, including DevaCurl No-Poo, DevaCurl One Condition, and all of our moisturizing stylers can be customized or cocktailed to create the perfect formula for the needs and aspirations of any curly client. With the help of a Devachan curl stylist or a Deva-inspired stylist, who has attended one of our academies, our naturally textured customers can embrace their hair and feel beautiful.”

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Writer Janelle Sands graduated from Neecees College of Cosmetology. She has been a braider for over twenty years, and specializes in specialty, precision cuts, natural hair, curly hair, extensions and braids.

Everybody’s Doing It, Nobody’s Talking About It: Greenwashing

green herbs for washing hair

Have you noticed your drugstore aisles are now filled with beauty products touting plant-based extracts on their packaging, using neutral, earth tone colors, and featuring marketing lingo like organic, natural and green? Then you (the informed consumer that you are”> turn over the packaging to find that plant-based extract at the very bottom of the ingredients list, and a slew of unnatural chemical ingredients at the top. These are symptoms of a trend happening right now called greenwashing. The act of greenwashing is when cosmetic product companies use traditional formulating procedures and ingredients (the same ones they have always used”>, yet market and package the products to appear more natural.

According to Perry Romanowski, experienced cosmetic chemist, author and creator of Chemists Corner, there are three categories that a company can fall under when formulating natural products, listed here in order from least clean to cleanest.

  • Level 3 – Greenwashing
  • Level 2 – Formulating to a standard
  • Level 1 – Formulating from nature

Greenwashing

The most popular of the three levels is greenwashing. As the trend of living a cleaner, greener life, the major beauty brands have caught on and tailored their products to speak our language. Many of the major product companies fall into this category and with good reason. It is cheaper to make products with synthetic ingredients and as we know some of the silicones and surfactants are really good at managing our hair for the short-term, thus consumers purchase more product and the cycle continues.

Formulating to a standard

Formulating to a standard means that companies or organizations have elected to set a standard for what they consider to be natural that they will abide by. Formulating to a standard produces minimally processed products that can nourish and protect your hair in the long run. There are fewer major companies in this category, but Whole Foods, Burt’s Bees, and Yes to Carrots are some of them. All of these companies have worked hard to create their own high standards of formulating.

Not only does popular retailer Whole Foods create their own formulas, they are also very selective about the products they sell in their stores. Their company proudly describes their selective process, “Currently, there are 50 ingredients common in conventional body care products that are not allowed in any body care products we sell. That includes phthalates, micro beads, triclosan, BHT, BHA, aluminum chlorohydrate, and many more. However, creating a product with no unacceptable ingredients does not guarantee that Whole Foods Market will sell it. Our buyers are passionate about seeking out the freshest, most healthful, minimally processed products available.” Yes to Carrots says yes to natural ingredients and recycled materials, producing 95% natural products and says no to “parabens, petroleum, phthalates and SLS.”

Formulating from nature

One of the greatest challenges of formulating natural cosmetic products is finding natural ways to preserve the product and keep it from spoiling on store shelves. Unfortunately, the cosmetic industry has yet to find an all-natural preservative for products so they have to find creative ways to make their products last. That is not to say that it is impossible, however, we have yet to find a natural preservative solution for water-based products like shampoos and conditioners.

Emollient or oil-based products stand a better chance. One major company that bounces between this category and level two is Burt’s Bees, which claims 50 % of their products are 100% natural and the other 50 % are 99% natural! How do they do it? A Burt’s Bees representative explains, “To ensure the safety, efficacy, and aesthetic of our formulas, we use the synthetic preservative phenoxyethanol at 1% or below in some of our water-containing products. We chose it because it is a non-paraben, non-formaldehyde-releasing preservative and is used broadly in natural personal care products. Yet we know we can do more. And in our pursuit of being 100% natural 100% of the time, we’re always looking for natural preservatives that will work as well, or better, than their synthetic counterparts.”

Why is this so important?

It varies for general consumers, depending on your level of concern over ingredients, but in the curly hair community it is very important. Textured hair tends to be on the dryer or potentially fragile side, so many curly consumers are increasingly more concerned with the ingredients they put on their hair. Knowing and understanding these three levels helps the curly consumer to make informed decisions when making purchase decisions.

For example, if you find that synthetic ingredients (beyond preservatives”> are damaging to your hair, then you may want to choose a higher level of formulating such as level one or even level two. This may require extra research in making choices, but the difference will show in your hair health. If you are pretty carefree with ingredients you can feel free to make selections from all three levels of formulating.

Do you go out of your way to buy products formulated from nature?

The Fight Continues for Full Deregulation of Hair Braiding

Isis Brantley gets one step closer to redemption with the deregulation of Texas Licensing Regulation for Hair Braiding. Brantley owns the Institute of Ancestral Braiding in Dallas and has taught the art of hair braiding for 20 years, but not without plenty of opposition from the State of Texas. In fact, in 1997 Brantley was arrested by seven police officers for braiding without licensure. Brantley begun her legal pursuit against the state and in 2007 was awarded the ability to legally braid hair. She, however, received even more resistance when she decided to teach her craft. In 2013, she sued the State of Texas for unreasonable requirements. “In the case of Brantley, she had to first convert her small business into a barber school that had at least 10 student chairs that reclined back and a sink behind every work station before being allowed to teach hair braiding,” as reported by Black Enterprise

In January 2015, Brantley was awarded and allowed to teach ancestral braiding. The judge ruled that requirements were “unreasonable and irrational.” In April 2015, Brantley has taken it even further and is in swift pursuit of full deregulation for hair braiding to give to all women who desire to braid for a living the right to do so without the strict erroneous hurdles that have been imposed for years. In her strong argument she says, “I need the government to get out of the way so that I can teach the next generation of hair braiders and earn an honest living.”

Although progress has been made of her efforts, when asked about her feeling of accomplishment she says, “I am not quite accomplished. I am not free until we are all free. We are awaiting the verdict when the session ends at the end of May. We are certainly looking forward to a victorious outcome. I am never over zealous about the fight for economic justice and cultural identity. We will always have more to stand up for and more to do as it relates to our identity and most especially out hair-ratage. Our ancestors paved the way for us. We must continue to protect and uphold our cultural legacy.”

Come May, the decisions will be made on how to proceed with the deregulation of hair braiding and teaching within the State of Texas. Interested parties are eager to know how this will affect the future of the hair industry as a whole.

Do you agree with full deregulation for hair braiders?

What’s the Difference Between Co-Wash and 2-in-1 Shampoo Conditioner?

The biggest influence on hair care brands to develop new and innovative products is you, the consumer. Your most pressing needs drive the market. Hence the presence of non-traditional cosmetic hair products like 2-in-1 shampoos and conditioners and specially formulated co-wash products. While they both claim to cleanse and condition, there is a difference.

2-in-1 Formulas

This innovative technology was originally created to save time by dually cleansing and conditioning the hair in one step. The most popular 2-in-1 product is the original 2-in-1 Pert Plus Shampoo Plus Conditioner. While it seems difficult to accomplish, the 2-in-1 formulas use cleansing agents to suspend dirt and debris within the lather while simultaneously adhering conditioning agents to the hair shaft. Finally when the hair is rinsed with water, the dirt, debris, and cleansing agents are washed away, leaving behind the conditioning emollients to temporarily bind to the hair shaft to assist with hydration and protection.

Consistent users find the product to be effective in volumizing the hair, especially for fine hair types. However, Ni’Kita Wilson, chief executive officer of Catalyst Cosmetic Development, provides a word of caution, “If you use it every day, then your hair starts to look dull and weighed down. You’ll need a clarifying shampoo to strip it bare and start all over again.” A popular modern version is the Dove Daily Moisture 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner.

Dove Daily Moisture Top 5 Ingredients

  • Sodium laureth sulfate (cleansing agent”>
  • Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (cleansing agent”>
  • Cocamidopropyl (cleansing agent”>
  • Betaine (conditioning agent”>
  • Sodium (wetting agent”>

Co-wash Formula

Within the last decade, naturally curly women have yearned for a cleansing product that does not leave their hair dry and parched. The consumer demands drew the product developers to create a new, problem-solving product. Co-wash is a nickname for a conditioner wash. This cleansing and conditioning formula gently lifts dirt, debris, and some oil from the hair while providing nutrients to condition the hair. Many find these formulas to deliver the hydration needed while keeping their hair moderately clean. The Camille Rose Naturals Carmel CoWash is a curl community favorite. CEO of Camille Rose Naturals Janell Stephens explains, “The Caramel CoWash is great for anyone who loves soft cleaning. It is a mild sulfate-free cleanser that suds! It is moisture-rich enough to use as a conditioner wash.”

Carmel CoWash top 5 Ingredient Breakdown

  • aloe barbadensis leaf juice (conditioning agent”>
  • sodium cocoyl taurate (cleansing and foaming agent”>
  • stearic acid (conditioning agent”>
  • behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS”> (conditioning agent”>
  • cetearyl alcohol (conditioning agent”>

The Difference 

While both formulas cleanse and condition. The 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner formula typically achieves both goals in different degrees, moderate cleansing and gentle conditioning. On the other hand, the co-wash or conditioner wash formulas tend to mildly cleanse and moderately condition. This is clear in the number of cleansing agents versus conditioning agents within the top five ingredients in the formula.

So you definitely want to make your choice based on your need for more conditioning or more cleansing. However, consider a word of wisdom: these two innovative formulas are considered non-traditional and are not best used exclusively but can better be utilized in tandem with a traditional shampoo as needed to prevent and remedy product buildup.

If you love using the 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner as a co-wash, feel free to use it often, but consider clarifying the hair with a shampoo at least once a month. This balance will prevent excessive product buildup yet maintain the clean, full-bodied, conditioned curls you crave. 

Which is your preference?

Do You Need Amino Acids or a Keratin Treatment?

What an interesting question as both amino acids and keratin treatments are so closely connected.

What are amino acids?

Amino acids are a highly necessary component of the body’s processes. Many amino acids can be naturally made by the body, and according to Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, they are the basic building blocks of protein chains. They function as the basic building blocks of the body supporting the digestive process and heart functions. Other amino acids, also known as essential amino acids, must be supplied to the body through the food we eat. A diet rich in meat, dairy, seafood, nuts, and plant-derived foods are great sources.
There is no question that amino acids are essential to hair growth, hair strength, and length retention.
Amino acids are key to hair growth and retention. Both L-Methionine and L-Cysteine are known to combat hair loss by supplying sulfur to the hair cells.  In fact, the basic structure of the keratin within hair is made up of amino acids joined together by chemical bonds also known as peptide bonds. Therefore they are a key element to the strength of the hair fiber. There is no question that amino acids are essential to hair growth, hair strength, and length retention.

What is keratin?

Keratin is the hard protein that makes up the structure of the hair built by 18 amino acids. This high sulfur, high fibrous protein can be built through a healthy diet and can be nourished via healthy hair care products and gentle styling and hair care methods. Protecting the integrity of the hair is important but unfortunately excessive heat styling, extreme tension from hair braiding and weaving, product abuse, or any other harmful methods can affect the strength of the hair strand.

As a result, keratin treatments have entered the scene purposed to strengthen the hair shaft and restore the hair’s resilience through a very intentional method. Keratin is bound to the hair with conditioners and keratin to smooth the surface of the hair and prevent frizz. This temporary method helps the hair to be more manageable and require less effort and time when styling. After cleansing with a clarifying shampoo, a solution is typically applied to the hair and left to sit based on the desired effect. The hair is then blow-dried and flat ironed. Strict instructions are given regarding when to perform your next cleansing and conditioning ritual. This treatment procedure could be harmful to weak hair, not because the keratin compounds are harmful, but the intense heat of the blow-dryer and flat iron may be too much for weak and damaged hair to withstand.

Amino acids vs. keratin

Both amino acids and keratin are essential for hair to even exist. Interestingly enough, you cannot have one and not have the other. The presence of amino acids will bring about keratin rich hair growth while keratin treatments are available to adhere keratin compounds to the outer hair shaft to strengthen and smooth the hair. Are both procedures great? Absolutely, yet within reason. Knowing the current state of your hair and its most pressing needs will help you determine if a boost in your body’s amino acids or an external keratin treatments would be better for you!

Which one’s right for you?

Eat more foods with amino acids if…

If your hair is weak as it grows in, then you need strengthening at the developmental stages of hair growth. You will know this if you observe the weak areas to not only exist at the ends but also towards your roots. A boost in amino acids within your body could help produce a stronger set of strands, given there are no other medical hindrances to your hair growth or excessive friction in your hair maintenance methods.

Try a keratin treatment if…

On the other hand, if your body is producing strong hair, yet damage is evident due to excessive chemicals, heat styling, or other harmful hair practices, a keratin treatment could be an option. Typically women with textured hair that like to straighten their hair with heat, desire less frizz, and enhanced manageability, and have moderately strong hair are the best candidates for this treatment.

Unsure where you fit in? Start by seeing a trusted licensed cosmetologist that has experience with your hair type. If your needs are beyond his or her expertise, see a licensed trichologist or dermatologist to determine the proper path for you to take!

The Scoop on the New SheaMoisture Zanzibar Marine Complex

Don’t you just love applying pure, healthy ingredients on your hair, scalp and body?  For me, it makes me feel nourished and ravished by nature’s elements. I am a shea butter and mango butter fan, a sucker for tea tree oil and virtually any of nature’s beneficial extracts.  

Recently some information has surfaced surrounding the benefits of black pearl protein and sea buckthorn oil. Although not new to the beauty industry, black pearl protein and sea buckthorn oil recently debuted in the new SheaMoisture Zanzibar Complex Community Commerce Collection that is currently stocked in Target’s Made to Matter section shelves. This section will feature brands and products that are eco-friendly and support sustainability and ethical sourcing. The collection includes hair, bath, and body care with black pearl protein and sea buckthorn oil as two of the key ingredients in the collection. Melissa Miller from Sundial Creations says:

Black pearl protein provides strength and rejuvenation to broken, lackluster hair. It offers nourishment and detoxification, leaving hair shiny and supple. Complimenting black pearl protein is sea buckthorn oil, which provides anti-aging and reparative nutrients to hydrate the hair and promote healthy growth. This ingredient duo is found in various hair and body products worldwide. Sea of Spa says it is shown to detoxify, regenerate, soften, and nourish the hair and body. Other additions in the collection include a special blend of kelp and carrageenan (also known as red algae”>, which is rich in polysaccharides for protection and moisturizing the hair. The two are also known for stimulating hair growth.

Richelieu Dennis, CEO and founder of SheaMoisture, continues to be a research pioneer within the company, known for testing and utilizing rare, natural ingredients worldwide to expand the SheaMoisture handmade skin care and hair care formulations. The new collection is age defying and color protecting for the hair. The body line offers traditional products like hand cream and body lotion as well as two not so common products in beauty lines: bath, body and massage oil and body polish. Both are instrumental in rejuvenating and replenishing skin as it matures.

SheaMoisture says, “The Zanzibar Marine Complex collection is made with natural, certified organic, and ethically sourced ingredients, including certified organic shea butter sourced from seven women’s cooperatives in northern Ghana, as part of the Shea Moisture’s Community Commerce Program. SheaMoisture proudly ethically sources its shea butter from those seven women’s co-ops in northern Ghana and invests in over 2,500 women entrepreneurs. When SheaMoisture invests in women’s shea butter cooperatives in Ghana, the brand doesn’t just buy their products — it helps them develop self-sustaining businesses. An ethical wage premium is paid to these enterprising women and the brand aids in monitoring practices to ensure that the efficiency, health, profitability, and quality of life are elevated for members of the co-ops. 10% of proceeds from this collection give back to women run businesses.”

The resources within these bottles are from the deep blue and the clay hills of Africa. To travel far and wide for exotic, authentic ingredients is the SheaMoisture way to “preserve the efficacy and rich heritage of each ingredient.” The fully anticipated collection is currently stocked on the shelves in Target.

We’re currently testing out a few of the new products ourselves, have you seen or tried any of these products in Target yet? 

A System with FDA Drug Proved to Repair Hair Loss

keranique hair products

Our hair obsession is taking over the world! Women of all cultures are sharing their hair care secrets with one another. Retailers like Target and Walmart have taken notice of curly consumers, propelling product companies to push the envelope of product innovations. A company called Keranique, named for its attention to boosting hair growth and strengthening the hair shaft has emerged onto the hair care scene. Much interest has been given to its claims. Let’s see what this product line is all about. 

How it Works

These products are made to address two different groups: women with hair thinning and hair loss and women seeking thicker, fuller, hair. For both parties, Keranique provides a money back guarantee that your hair will meet both concerns when followed appropriately.

Thicker Fuller, Longer System

This kit is for anyone who wants to boost hair growth. Product specialist Tristen Cochran says, “I use our shampoo, conditioner, and follicle boosting serum. It strengthens the follicles you have and repairs the hair so your hair will grow thicker, stronger, fuller, longer. Results can be seen in just four weeks for that, but I saw a difference in bulk in two weeks! The process includes using the Keranique shampoo and conditioner followed by the Follicle Boosting Serum sprayed directly at the roots of the hair.

Follicle Boosting Serum’s Top 5 Ingredients

  1. Butylene glycol- humectant used as a conditioning agent.
  2. Glycerin- a common humectant.
  3. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate– a water-soluble humectant synthetic polymer that is derived from the fatty acids of coconut for its emulsifying agent.
  4. PEG-12 dimethicone– a PEG binded with dimethicone, a silicone-based polymer used to give formulas a smooth feel, promote spreadability, and add lubrication.
  5. Trifolium pratense (clover”> flower extract – an extract from clover, this flower has traditionally been used to prevent hair loss. When used in hair care it is also known to improve the hair’s strength and elasticity.

Hair Growth System

If your hair begins to thin, causing the scalp to become visible, then the Keranique Hair Regrowth Treatment is a great option. This product contains 2% Minioxidil, “the only FDA approved ingredient clinically proven to help women regrow hair,” which can be product sold over the counter. After cleansing and conditioning with Keranique, apply the Regrowth Treatment twice a day, everyday, directly to the hair follicles. This system is an overnight treatment that will take time to work. Within 4-6 months Keranique guarantees regrowth or your money back.

Keranique Hair Regrowth Treatment Full Ingredient List

  1. Minoxidil 2%- a drug used to treat male patterned baldness in men and hair loss in women.
  2. Alcohol– groups of organic compounds. Keranique has not disclosed which form of alcohol in within this formula.
  3. Propylene glycol- an organic alcohol that attracts water and functions as a moisturizer. 
  4. Purified water- mechanically filtered or processed form of H20.

Styling Options

Keranique offers two styling products to help mask the thinning hair while growing. The Amplify Lift Spray and Thickening and Texturizing Mousse. These products can offer lift to your hair directly at the roots to give a voluminous blowout while the mousse delivers a textured thickening effect to your hair strands. 

The Nitty Gritty

We probed Keranique for some of your most needed answers. Here’s what we got:

What if I stop taking it? 

You can stop using the styling products at any time and will not see any changes in growth or hair loss. You can also cease to take the Follicle Boosting Serum at any time and you will not experience any shedding. However, if you were to stop taking the Hair Regrowth Treatment, you would see some changes. According to Keranique product specialist, “With Minoxidil, there is a shedding phase to push out old follicles making room for new. We send a 2-month kit, which will not last forever. It is ideal for you to try the product for four months. If you stop taking it, you may see a decrease in growth.” 

Can it really deliver three times the growth?

Both treatments can deliver three times the growth, however, Keranique does warn that each person is different so it is hard to gauge exact growth in terms of inches for each individual. It also has a series of questions to ask yourself before taking the Hair Regrowth Treatment such as is there hair loss in your family? If there is not, they advise you not to take the treatment.

Is it for all hair types?

Yes, the product is formulated for all hair types. Any hair that needs repair is a great candidate for Keranique. However, knowing your hair type is most important before totally jumping ship. If you are used to using a lot of oil-rich products, you may want to hold onto your bottle of argan oil to use within your regimen, as this product line is not a heavy in oils. It is best not to style your hair in protective braids or tightly installed extensions while using either treatment method, as this could inhibit the hair follicle.

The Good News

Keranique has a host of reviews online to give you some feedback on past users. It that is not enough to get you to take a change, as stated before, the company provides a money-back guarantee if you do not see the results you want. This is what the hair community has to say about Keranique.

  •  YouTube Review- Keranique Hair Growth System Review by Sondra Jones“My hair has been thinning from the lupus, It’s really full, bouncy and has a lot of body, but I have very soft hair and it’s really fine so although I love the way it looks, I don’t love the way it feels…. There is kind of a film…”
  • Amazon Reviews Bynursemel03on“I always read reviews before I buy a product I was reading about 50/50 on this item, so I was hesitant at first.  Well I decided to give it a try my hair was already thin so what did I have to lose? I am so glad I ordered this, my hair is fuller, and I see that it is growing back. I have been using this daily as my routine for 5 months now. I just can’t imagine how it will be in 6 more months. I can’t wait to see the day that people talk to me instead of looking at my head the whole time. All I can say is if you’re ready to see your hair the way it was when you were younger them you need to try this product! Use it as directed.  Don’t skip here and there, and you will be amazed.  My only issue is cost, but then again what would one pay for a head full of hair after.”
  • Amazon Review by nursemel03“This is just 2% Minoxidil which is .5% less than Rogaine for women! Minoxidil is and FDA approved product to help maintain and stop hair loss (I’m in the hair restoration industry”> and this is just an very expensive Minoxidil product marketed to women. You can get women’s Rogaine at Costco or Sam’s Club for a lot less. I hate that companies take advantage of women who are so desperate when they have hair loss. It’s so traumatic and then to get ripped off by some company marketing a “new” product. Its active ingredient is again, Minoxidil, been around for decades.”

As previously mentioned, the reviews for Keranique are 50/50.  What do you think?  Is it worth the price?  Would you try it?

More: What You Need to Know About Temporary and Permanent Hair Loss

Why Women are Using Dominican Hair Products

Dominican hair care products have been a booming industry for many years. At this point many women, especially women with naturally curly hair, have heard about a special quality about Dominican products. A quality that is not quite comparable to other products we have encountered. Common Dominican hair care product lines are Alter Ego, Avanti, Boe, Kismera, Kuz, Maxima and so many more. Welcome to your introduction to Dominican products.

Dominican Products 101  

Dominican styling has evolved over the years as women are accepting their natural textures globally, however, traditional Dominican styling still exists and all forms of Dominican styling branch from the traditional methods. Today you will not only find Dominican Salons in their native country, but you will find these types of salons all over the world. Their specialty is the Dominican blowout, which includes getting your hair cleansed, conditioned, and set on rollers beneath a hair dryer. For added body and smoothing, the hair is then blown out with a round brush. Here is a detailed look at what Dominican products have to offer.

Pre-Shampoo

Using oils to coat each strand for 20 min. before cleansing your hair serves as a pre-shampoo treatment to the hair. The oils add shine and moisture to the hair. Whether Dominicans were aware of it or not, a pre-shampoo treatment is one of the best things to do for damage prone hair to prevent hygral fatigue. Some typical pre-shampoo oils are avocado, coconut, cinnamon, and garlic oil.

Shampoo

Dominican cleansers use natural extracts to specifically address scalp conditions and strengthen hair follicles. Product developers are well aware of the cellular structure of the hair and use rare fatty acids gentle additives to protect the integrity of the hair. While there are some sulfate shampoos available for specific usage (clarifying”>, moisturizing shampoos dominate the Dominican product market. 

Deep Conditioner

Before a blowout or any style utilizing heat, a deep conditioner is recommended to repair the strands and strengthen prior to styling. Dominican products are ultra rich in protein and moisturizing fatty acids. Based on your hair’s need you can find a conditioner to suit your needs. Conditioners are typically utilized under a heat for deeper penetration. In traditional Dominican Salon settings, they may not charge you extra for a deep conditioner if you bring your own from home.

Rinse Out and Leave-in Conditioner

These can be used when skipping a deep conditioner or to be used after a deep conditioning treatment to detangle the hair. In lieu of a rinse out conditioner, a leave in treatment might also be used after a deep condition prior to heat styling.  Dominican formulated leave-ins serve as heat protectants

Ampules (drops”>

One very unique feature about Dominican products is its use of treatment drops also known as ampules. As needed, ampules are treatment drops for the scalp and/or hair and are to be used after the cleansing/conditioning process. According to /” target=”_blank”>Round Brush Hair, the drops serve multiple purposes including “dryness, weakness, hair loss, hair growth and restructuring.”

Serum Stylers

Serums and hair polishers are used to seal in moisture to the strands and shield against the heat. One thing to note about traditional Dominican products is that in some products you may find silicones in the serum stylers, which does not typically cause problems for Dominican styling, as women get their hair straightened often.

Dominican Educator of Delino Salon and Spa, Ino Paulino, shares that it is the rare formulations that make Dominican Products such a treat.  For this reason the salon carries their own line of Dominican Hair Care products. She states,” The difference is in the formula. Our products are made with nutrients, vitamins, and proteins that fortify the strands and protect from damage. Our products are best for dry or damaged hair and we seek pure ingredients to deliver a high quality hair care product.” Delino offers a professional line of Dominican styling products which includes shampoos, conditioners, deep treatments, slick drops, pure argan oil and a keratin mask.

Dominican styling is not going anywhere in fact as the natural movement progresses, so does Dominican styling and product development.

Read more: 5 Reasons Snail Slime is a Dominican Hair Secret

What is your favorite brand of Dominican products?

It’s Green, It’s Irish, and It Will Make Your Hair Shiny

irish sea moss

Nature’s beauty secrets are abundant and endless. We have learned how to maximize the benefits of natural oils, plants, and other natural resources. Some are reaping the benefits of snail mucus for shine and slip while others are using bull semen for softness. 

Meet another natural source of nourishment for the hair (and there are no animals involved in the making of this ingredient”>, Irish sea moss and its derivative carrageenan extract. Known for its ability to soothe the scalp, condition the hair, enhance shine, and fortify the hair fibers, Irish sea moss is gentle enough for your skin and strong enough to strengthen the hair. It is often used as an emulsifier in hair products, a metabolism booster in dietary supplements, and for resolving bladder issues.

You already use this

Even if you are not familiar with this ingredient, you have likely been using it already. This little ingredient has been used for years in the health care industry.  You will find it in the middle or bottom of the list of ingredients, which is commonly seen as Chondrus crispus. According to wellness resource Weleda, Carrageenan is commonly referred to as Irish moss, a species of red algae that grows abundantly along the rocky, Atlantic coasts of North America and Europe. It is made up of many mineral nutrients. Irish moss serves as a thickening agent, as well as a skin softener. It can be used to treat inflamed tissues.”

5 Products with Irish Sea Moss

  • Seattle Pomade Co. Organic Pomade traps the essence of organic extracts and emollients to make a high performing styler.
  • CurlyCue Renew Deep Conditioner is a protein-free deep conditioner with Ayurvedic herbs and extracts to strengthen and enhance shine for your curly strands.
  • Original Moxie Intense Quench Deep Conditioner Moxie is a deep penetrating, rinse out conditioner formulated for strengthening and enhancing shine in less than 15 min.   
  • Aquage SeaExtend Silkening Shampoo uses extracts from the sea to fortify the strands, add moisture and smoothness, and provide shine to the hair. Perfect for frizzy or unmanageable hair.
  • Parnevu Leave in Conditioner is a classic, tried-and-true product with legacy and sustainability. Parnevu has used Irish sea moss in their formula for years. Apply this product daily or as needed.
  • Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo won this year’s Editor’s Choice Awards and is a top seller at CurlMart. Irish moss extract is the fourth ingredient in this shampoo and will leave your hair softer and shinier than before.
You have every reason to get excited when you see Irish sea weed or Chondus crispus listed in the ingredients of your favorite products. Enjoy its unique benefits and continue to seek new resources right from your own backyard. Nature will always provide a way for us to enhance our inner and outer beauty with its enriching qualities.   

Do you use Irish moss in your DIY products?

What’s the Difference Between a Dominican Blowout and a Keratin Treatment

Blowouts refer to the process of blow-drying the hair with an option to flat iron. The typical procedure involves using a blow-dryer with a comb attachment or using a handheld dryer while combing it out with a vent brush, paddle brush, Denman brush, or a round brush. After a blowout you are left with a relaxed, straighter look, but this typically won’t deliver bone straight hair. To get the flat, shiny, moveable hair, you really need to use a flatiron. The straightened results of a blowout are temporary, and the length of time it lasts will depend on your hair texture, the weather where you live, and how you maintain your hair at night. Your hair will revert back to its natural texture the next time it gets wet.

Dominican Blowout

This popular straightening procedure originates in the Dominican Republic and can be varied to suit your individual hair type.

The Process

The traditional procedure consists of the following:

  1. Shampoo the hair with a Dominican based product.
  2. Deep condition the hair under a hooded dryer for at least 15 min.
  3. Apply a Dominican based scalp oil, if necessary.
  4. Apply a heat protectant and roller set the hair and dry beneath a hooded dryer.
  5. Take down the rollers and blow-dry the roots with a round brush to straighten the roots. If necessary, you can blow-dry along the entire length of the hair.
  6. Roll and pin each blown section until it cools. When the blow-drying segment is complete, drop the curls. Wrap the hair for a smooth finish and long-term maintenance.

Results

The result will be a silky smooth, moveable blowout with body, bounce, and shine. This will also last based on the hair type.  Porous hair types can wear their Dominican Blowout for up to two weeks while non-porous hair could stretch to four weeks at a time.  Maintain your blowout by performing the doobie or wrap, which involves wrapping the hair around the perimeter of your head, securing with long bobby pins every night before retiring for bed.

Curl reversion and damage

This treatment lasts an average of anywhere between 1-4 weeks. Your hair will revert back to its natural state when it gets wet.  This technique requires high levels of heat and requires a heat protectant. Though a heat protectant will help, it will not prevent all heat damage.  Precautions should be taken and the technique should be used sparingly so as to avoid permanent heat damage.

Hair type

This treatment is best for healthy hair. Damaged or chemically treated hair will quickly break down with this method.  The first sign of damage will be in the reduced strength of your curl pattern. Watch for this initial sign of damage and scale back at the onset.

Price

Depending on the city or area you live in, it can cost between $25-$50 for a Dominican blowout.
NATURALLYCURLY WRITER SHALIMARCAT BEFORE (LEFT”> & AFTER (RIGHT”> A KERASILK TREATMENT

Keratin Treatment

The Goldwell Keratin Treatment system is one of the newer smoothing treatments on the market entitled Kerasilk, also known as the first customizable smoothing service for women, with claims to reduce styling time, improve manageability, soften, and smooth the hair. This treatment can be used to intentionally stretch your hair, or if you’re looking to retain your curl pattern then this treatment can be used to smooth the cuticle and reduce. Your stylist should customize the formula based on what you are looking for. Dimitrios Tsioumas of Mizu Salon told Teen Vogue that “mistakes in keratin treatments are mostly made during the application process, with either too little or too much heat, or not enough saturation of the product.” We love that this treatment is customizable depending on your hair goals, if you love your curls then you can choose to keep them. But this also means that the results lie in the hands of your stylist, and choosing the right stylist can make or break your keratin experience. Our own writer Nora Huber has had both positive and negative experiences with keratin, totally based on the stylist.

The Process

This treatment attaches the keratin to your hair strands through the combination of high pH product formulations applied with high heat temperatures using blow-dryers and flat irons.
  1. Shampoo the hair twice to clarify it
  2. Blow dry the hair until it’s 80% dry
  3. Apply the customized solution in small sections
  4. Let the solution sits on the hair for 20 minutes,
  5. Blow dry hair again and flat iron it at high temperature
  6. Wash the hair again (don’t leave with the solution in”>

Results

Based on the formula, the results could vary from reducing frizz to elongating the curl pattern. Be very specific in your consultation so that your stylist is clear on your goals. Also make sure you are working with a stylist you trust and whose work you are familiar with.

Curl reversion and damage

This process can last up to 5 months. After five months the treatment should wear off and your curl pattern will return to its natural state.

Hair type

Kerasilk is an option for women with textured hair who are looking to reduce frizz or temporarily elongate their curl pattern.

Price

This treatment is offered between $200-$350.

Read more: Top 10 Products for Your Best Blowout

So, do you want to smooth the frizz for a short while or a long while? Do you want to stretch your curl or enhance your curl? 

Are You Considering Hair Restoration and Transplants? Read This

What do you do when you love your hair and it begins to fall out for a reason you have yet to discover? As we age we have changes in hormones, traumatic experiences, or excessive stress that can result in hair loss or thinning. According to DermNet.mz, “Around 40% of women by age 50 show signs of hair loss and less than 45% of women actually reach the age of 80 with a full head of hair.” Regardless of how common hair loss and thinning can be for women, it can still be a devastating, life altering experience.

With different forms of hair loss for women, it is extremely difficult to self diagnose and requires professional consultation. Once diagnosed, treatment is available and understanding the potential outcomes is necessary. Dermnet, a resource for conditions of the skin helps provide understanding,  says that “the aim is to slow or stop the progression of hair loss rather than to promote hair regrowth. However, some women do experience hair regrowth with treatment. Results are variable and it is not possible to predict who may or may not benefit from treatment.”

After considering all options, many people are left with hair transplantation.

Let’s Dive in!

“Hair transplantation involves removing small pieces of hair bearing scalp grafts from a donor site and relocating them to a bald or thinning area,” according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Essentially your own hair follicle is relocated from one section of your body to another. The exact procedure can differ from surgeon to surgeon but the fundamentals are virtually the same. The hair follicles are transplanted to the desired area in an aesthetically pleasing placement. A specific strip of scalp will be extracted and then prepared for transplant. Tiny incisions are made along the hairline or desired area for implantation and each hair with the follicle will be planted into the incision.

Recovery and Maintenance

This is a procedure that can take several hours and requires mediation to alleviate the recovery pain. A surgical dressing will be applied for several days and a scalp scab will form as the wounds heal. Within three weeks your scab and hair will “fall off” and new hair will sprout. Careful instructions will be given by your physical such as sleeping an elevated 45-degree angle and cleansing and dressing the wound. Your hair will continue to grow and will require the same measure of care as before. It is important to know that you might not have the density of that you originally had, as you will have enhanced fullness.  

The question is, is it worth it?

Destiny Godley, beauty blogger and YouTube guru, has shared her personal journey of hair transplantation. In detail she thoroughly explained the procedure with her followers. Dr. John Diep, who is a hair restoration specialist with a unique experience with African American hair restoration, did her 3,000 transplant. Her 3000-graph procedure is one she will never forget nor regret. Although she has shared so much, she wants to communicate this to the natural hair community: “I wish I had done it sooner and it’s definitely a worthy procedure. It is something that has definitely helped me grow as a person and a natural. Yes, it continuously grows as long as you maintain it. But it can be still get damaged. A lot of people think its now invincible but it’s the same hair that I have growing from my scalp.”

So with new technology and our new love for hair, restoring your once full hairline is possible. If all else has failed, then this is one option that will always be available. Attend a visit with a trusted certified trichologist or dermatologist for an accurate diagnosis of your hair thinning and visit a hair restoration specialist to see if you are an ideal candidate for a the transplant procedure.

More References

The Hair Pulling Disorder

Trichotillomania is a disorder that causes people to pull out the hair from their scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, pubic area, underarms, beard, chest, legs or other parts of the body, resulting in noticeable bald patches. The severity of this disorder varies from person to person, from mild to severely uncontrollable.

Although it mostly resembles an obsessive-compulsive disorder, there are very different characteristics and require different treatments. The same is true for a tic disorder. However the recent development classifies trichotillomania with the family of body-focused repetitive behaviors (BFRBs”> like skin picking and nail biting. 

Symptoms and Causes 

According to the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual, trichotillomania (hair pulling disorder”> is most commonly characterized by:

  • Recurrent pulling out of one’s hair, resulting in hair loss
  • Repeated attempts to decrease or stop hair pulling
  • Clinically significant distress or impairment in social, occupational, or other important areas of functioning
  • Not being attributable to another medical condition (e.g., a dermatological condition”>
  • Not better explained by the symptoms of another mental disorder (e.g., attempts to improve a perceived defect or flaw in appearance in body dysmorphic disorder”>

Unfortunately, the direct cause of the disorder is still unknown, but research continues to seek answers to understand the many mysteries of this unique disorder. There can be many causes that create the onset of hair pulling. What doctors know to be true is that the action is a self-soothing mechanism to external stimuli. Clients with trichotillomania are commonly reading, writing, watching television, or some other form of relaxation. At the same time that does not mean that the only cause of trichotillomania is stress. Perfectly happy, emotionally stable people can develop the disorder too. All possible reasoning should be explored for each individual that shows symptoms, as it can be very easy to quickly diagnose these symptoms as a nervous habit when it may not be that at all.

Common Demographics

You can see children as young as 12 months old, however the average age of onset is 11 years old.

Among severe occurrences, trichotillomania can cause the individual to lead a reclusive life, often avoiding social interactions and concealing much of themselves with hats and clothes to protect themselves from guilt and shame. Although the feelings of judgment are painful and relentless, the urge to pull the hair is stronger and will continue. On the highest side, the disorder can lead to hair swallowing where part of all of the hair strands are ingested orally. This leads to a host of other medical problems that often go untreated.

Treatment

Thankfully there are different sorts of treatment options available for individuals and families dealing with trichotillomania. One form of treatment is usually not enough; therefore multiple treatments are often put together.

Here are a few examples of treatments given by the Trichotillomania Learning Center:

  • Cognitive Behavior Therapy– Cognitive-Behavioral Therapy (CBT”> is a form of therapy that seeks to alter behavior by identifying the precise factors that trigger hair pulling and learning skills to interrupt and redirect responses to those triggers.
  • Medication– Certain medications have proven effective for some people. Utilizing another form of treatment with the medication is common, however, medicating children is not a common practice.
  • Alternative Medicine– All there is to know about this disorder has not yet been discovered.  Therefore all treatment processes are to be used with caution. The Trichotillomania Learning Center or TLC, handles alternative medicine in their own manner, “In many cases, these ideas have not been scientifically tested and are supported only by anecdotal evidence. So we explore them with an open, but also cautious mind.”

Help Centers

Most victims suffer alone so support centers are vital to the treatment of individuals. You can start your own treatment center in your area or join an online group or email support system to stay connected and supported while supporting others. You can find a host of support groups at Trichotillomania Learning CenterFor additional information visit The Mayo Clinic and Kids Health America.

How you can help… 

Knowledge is power. If you know someone with this disorder then understand the facts rather than extend judgment and offer your support by looking past the physical extension of the disease. Seek or start a support group in your area and look out for fundraisers that raise awareness for this unique disorder. Finally, continue to see all as they really are. This above all things will support the cause more than anything.

You are not alone. In August 2013 vlogger Laila from Fusion of Cultures discussed her battle with trichotillomania. Check it out below.

Is Your Medicine Causing Hair Loss?

Hair loss for any reason can be quite devastating to men, women, and children alike. To some hair can be a major contributing factor to one’s self esteem. Certain drugs and treatments that are taken for health issues can induce hair fall or hair loss, and in some cases the results are permanent. American Hair Loss Association has a list of medications that are used to treat health complications that include the ones listed below:
  • Acne treatment
  • Cholesterol lowering
  • Epilepsy
  • Depression
  • Weight loss
  • Fungus
  • Glaucoma
  • Gout
  • Hypertension
  • Hormonal conditions
  • Inflammation
  • Parkinson’s disease
  • Thyroid disorders
  • Ulcer

The full list is extensive and is not limited to just these. First and foremost, it is important to acknowledge that the illness alone can have implications for hair growth and loss. According to Dr. Manny of Fox News, “Hair cells are some of the fastest growing cells in the body. So when your body is under stress from illness, hair cells can shut down to redirect the energy elsewhere to help heal what ails you.” Illness can be caused from a disruption of balance within the body. Medicine attempts to counteract the imbalance to bring your body back into a natural homeostasis. 

On the other hand, balance does not come instantly and introducing  a  new medication into your system can also wreak havoc. To answer many of our drug induced hair-loss questions, LaVon Morrow, certified trichologist with Dimensions Trichology Center, explains it all. When asked if there is a common thread amongst drugs with hair loss side effects she responds, “Any type of imbalance in the body could cause hair loss. If it is not insulin levels, it will be your blood pressure. Anything out of balance can cause hair loss. Therefore, no there is not a common thread between the drugs.”

Will the effects be permanent?

After the drug has ceased being used, within six months, more or less, your hair growth patterns will most likely resume, regardless of how long the drug has been taken. Morrow tells us, “Regarding care, there is no way to counteract the drug’s affects. You can do things to encourage growth to keep the integrity of the hair, but you will not be able to cease the side effects.”

So, what should I do?

Your first immediate step should be to discuss your illness and your prescribed drugs with your doctor. Express your concerns and see if there are alternative medicines with fewer side effects. From there you and your doctor can choose what is best for you. The most important thing is to seek counsel from professionals who can adequately advise you as you make decisions. Morrow advises, “The best person to speak with is the pharmacist. They can print out information about the drug. Unfortunately, the prescribing doctor may not know to tell you about a hair loss side effect. Sometimes hair loss is unreported. It may be years later that a person makes the correlation between a drug and hair loss. So always do your own research.”

Hair growth patterns are as fragile as the hair itself. Minimal imbalances in the body could cause massive change in your hair. Do your research when taking any drug. If illness is not present in your life, be sure to take great care of yourself. Minimize stress, get rest, and consume a healthy diet with plenty of water for a balanced body with minimal hair loss.

Disclaimer: This article is not meant to discourage anyone from following their doctor’s orders. Your health should always take precedence over your appearance. 

Do I Need a Moisturizer, Milk, or Refresher?

as i am curl moisturizer, milk and refresher

Let’s look at the key attributes of all three formulas to understand their unique characteristics, differences, and best practices using As I am Naturally Products.

As I Am So Much Moisture! Hydrating Lotion

A moisturizer is designed to hydrate the hair shaft. Curly and coily hair are naturally drier than straight hair, which make them more vulnerable to breakage. Retaining moisture in the hair strands is essential to keeping a full head of healthy curls. Common ingredients in moisturizing products are fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol, which help to enrich the hair with oil and aid in emulsifying ingredients. Glycerin is a humectant that is a common ingredient in moisturizers. Beware if you are in a dry climate, as this can have an adverse effect and withdraw moisture from your hair and into the atmosphere.

Top ingredients

Water, glycerin, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, royal jelly, glucose, and lavandula angustifolia (lavender”> flower extract.

Glycerin is the first ingredient and therefore the most prominent ingredient. Perfect for adding and holding moisture in your hair ( given the right climate“>. Second up is aloe leaf juice, another power hitter for moisturizing and sealing the cuticle. It is unknown what is in the royal jelly, but an As I Am representative touts its origin to be a natural substance from queen honeybees. Glucose is a plant derived simple sugar that acts as a humectant in cosmetics and lavender extract is soothing to a stressed scalp.

Best Practices

Use your moisturizer daily or every few days based on your hair type. It is good to remember that because this attracts too much moisture to your hair, it is not an ideal styler. A moisturizer like this is best for puffs, textured curly afros, and other undefined textured looks; not to be confused with a styler designed to enhance definition, control frizz, and hold curls in place. Great for all hair types, however, be mindful when using a glycerin based moisturizer. A little goes a long way, so use it as you need it, no more and no less.

As I Am Moisture Milk Daily Hair Revitalizer

Milks were created to strengthen and hydrate the hair, hence the name milk, known for nourishing vitamins, minerals, and strengthening protein. Most hair milk formulas are called this for their creamy consistency. The consistency is accredited to the rich, emollients like shea butter and other nut derived oils and butters. A common ingredient that you will see is lanolin, a waxy yet protective substance of sterol esters. Moisture milks and milk stylers can get a lot done with little product.

Top ingredients

Aqueous (water, aqua purificada, purified”> extracts: geta vulgaris (beet”> root, glycine soja (soybean”> oil, prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond”> oil, theobromo cacao (cocoa”> seed butter, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter”>, and cetearyl alcohol.

As you can see, the top five ingredients are rich nourishing natural emollients of beetroot, soybean, and sweet almond oil for treating and encouraging growth, along with the nourishing elements of cocoa seed and shea butter.

Best Practices

Use this moisture milk as a base to your styler or you can use as your styler depending on your hair type. A little can go a long way. There is no reason to oversaturate the hair; one layer of your favorite milk-styler will be enough. Moisture milks are best for hydrating and styling fine hair and can be used as a moisturizing base for coarser hair. All hair types can benefit from the moisture, but wavy hair might find the emollients to be heavy, while tight curlies may find it to be too light for styling. Consider this a light product that can be used as often as daily.

As I Am Coco Shea Spray

A refresher spray is designed to refresh your current curl style. Based with water, the Coco Shea Spray is a light mist that can revitalize your thirsty curls and pump some juices beneath that hair shaft for oh so fresh curls.

Top ingredients

Water, cocos nucaifera (coconut”> oil, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter”>, glycerin, and disodium ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate.

The light water based spray with coconut oil and shea butter is emulsified with submicron technology to gently and lightly protect the hair strands while infusing water into your curls. This product is perfect for your second day hair after your perfectly set wash and go. African shea butter protects the hair and then glycerin enters the scene with less intensity than the moisturizer formula, as it is the third ingredient. The fourth ingredient serves as a conditioning agent and foam producer and the fifth ingredient a thickener.

Best Practices

Use this to refresh your curls and prep for a new style or rejuvenate your previous look. All hair types can benefit from this spray, as it is so light. For styling, wavy hair types will need a curl boost to follow, curly girls can shake and go, and coilies can follow with a cream styler as needed.

In closing

All three of these formulas are moisturizers; they simply do so in three different ways. If your hair is often dry then glycerin based moisturizer will do you good. If you love a light moisturizing base or love to style with light products then moisture milk is your friend. Finally, no matter what hair type, if you do not have time to rewash and restyle, all hair types can opt for a curl refresher. You can spray it on or rub it in with your fingertips!

Do share, what is best for your hair?

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5 Best Long Bob Haircuts

PHOTO COURTESY OF JEAN-MARC MANIATIS

With all of the new bob variations about, going back to the classic bob shape is imperative to understand its fundamental characteristics. Toby Vernay, master stylist and educator at Puravida Salon and Spa defines the classic bob. “The actual definition of a classic bob is, a flat line cut onto a round surface with no graduation and no layers.” This look was and still has been a popular staple for women for centuries, hence the word classic. The foundation of the bob early on stood as a symbol of strength in a woman; a stance to go against the grain of the idealistic, longhaired, submissive woman. The bob was to communicate independence and strength.

VisforVintage.net explains the many historical, female figures that made the bob the longstanding classic that it is today. “Strong female personas throughout history have been defined by their bob hairstyle. Cleopatra is often depicted wearing aspects of the bobbed style (actually, it’s a braided headpiece”>. Also, Joan of Arc in the 15th Century. Pioneer aviator Amelia Earhart wore cropped hair.”

Today’s woman is undefined by predictable faux paus and unrealistic expectations, thus shaping our current hair and beauty trends.  Hence the variant bobs we see today. Toby Vernay chimes in to shed light on the variations: “A graduated bob is otherwise a classic bob with a shallow 45 degree elevation of graduation at the nape. A contoured bob is and otherwise classic bob with an even amount of gentle graduation all the way through from the back and onto the sides.” And it doesn’t stop here. Curly hair women have now taken the foundational bob and introduced the asymmetric bob, stacked bob, long bob, layered bob, etc. While new bob-shapes are emerging everyday, here is a little vocabulary to bring you up to speed.

A-Line Bob

This very typical look shapes the hair into an A around the perimeter of the cut. The point of the ‘A’ being at the nape of the neck and the two pillars of the A stopping around your chin, neck, or collarbone area.

PHOTO COURTESY OF KARLASCLOSET

Asymmetrical Bob

The most popular among curlies! This bob is known for one side of the front of the hair being longer than the other side. All other factors are negotiable. This bob is highly praised among women with textured hair for its softer effect on the face and a multifunctional nature.

PHOTO COURTESY OF ISTOCK


Stacked Bob

Also known as the graduated bob mentioned previously. This bob can be an A line or a flat line with elevation, typically cut at a 45 degree to give the illusion of hair stacked on top of one another.

PHOTO COURTESY OF FASHION POPULATION

Long Bob

This popular summer look allows the woman to wear a classic or trendy bob with less of a long-term commitment to short hair. This bob typically falls around the collarbone.



Layered Bob

Layers are achieved by holding the hair at particular elevations while cutting. Results vary by hair texture, but wispy ends that end at different lengths and a seamless finish are common characteristics.


Straight and wavy hair types will benefit from all versions of the bob haircuts. Curly or kinky hair types also have options, however less layers are more recommended to give the “fall” of the bob with the most favorable style being the asymmetrical curly bob which every curly must try at last once!

Would you ever get a bob haircut?