Search Results: Janelle Sands

By Janelle Sands · Published April 4, 2024

Is it true that hair absorbs ingredients better when it is dry? This notion has puzzled us for so long. So, what do we do when we are not sure about something? We try it out to see if we feel a difference. But if you are like me, you tried it once and ended up with no real tangible data to support a yes or a no – so, let’s look to see where the truth lies.

A Little Hair Science

Hair strands grow from the scalp’s hair follicles, nourished by the body’s blood vessels and sebaceous glands. Growing strong hair requires a healthy diet and, generally, a healthy body. However, after the hair sprouts from the bulb of the follicle, it can only be topically nourished by the sebaceous oil-producing glands and via topical products. Here is where deep conditioning comes into play. Deep conditioning is extra helpful because its softening, strengthening, and enriching benefits last longer than the common rinse-out conditioner formula.

Basics of Conditioning

Conditioners help your hair mostly by adsorbing into its outer cuticle. Absorption refers to ingredients attaching to the surface of the hair. However some deep conditioners have ingredients with a low molecular weight and are designed to absorb beneath the cuticle layer also. To successfully adsorb the elements onto or within the hair requires attracting a positive and a negative charge. Conditioners contain cationic surfactants that carry this positive charge, while the hair itself holds a negative charge. This attraction between the two allows for adsorption to occur.

Can the hair be conditioned when dry?

The assumption behind conditioning on dry hair is that the hair shaft will better adsorb the ingredients without the water barrier. Technically, this bears truth. If you apply a conditioner to the hair strands, the hair’s slightly negative charge will attract to the positively charged conditioner.

On the other hand, conditioning while dry might have the barrier of product buildup, sebum, or other debris on the hair shaft based on your lifestyle or styling methods.

Can hair be conditioned while wet?

Image Source: @teaira.j

The assumption behind conditioning on wet hair assumes the hair has been previously wet or previously shampooed prior to deep conditioning.

• Water alone can raise the outer cuticle layer of the hair, which is beneficial to the conditioning process. Deep conditioning hair with on a raised cuticle can be helpful, especially on low porosity hair, which has /a difficult time receiving moisture.
• Shampooing the hair with a negatively charge shampoo (containing anionic surfactants) will strengthen the negative charge of the hair and will raise the pH of the hair, which subsequently raises the cuticle layers of the hair shaft. Shampooing the hair also releases the existing dirt, debris, or buildup on the hair shaft that might inhibit your process. 

So, which option is the best option for you? We consult the experts to help us discern. Susan Walker, founder and creative director of Earthtones Naturals, offers her analysis: ” Deep conditioning can be extremely effective for natural hair that is dry, damaged, and breaking. Research shows that to get the most benefits out of the conditioner by way of it adsorbing onto the hair and then allowing specific ingredients to penetrate the hair, it should be done on freshly shampooed, wet hair. Applying the conditioner in this way can greatly increase softness, smoothing of the cuticle and improve moisture.”

So how could this apply to you based on porosity and lifestyle?

Image Source: @manesbymell

Assess your hair’s level of product buildup and need for a strong or moderate deep conditioning treatment. You will also need to know your hair’s porosity level.

High Porosity Hair

Weak, damaged hair, or high porosity hair tends to attract dirt and could use an adequate cleanse before conditioning.

Low Porosity Hair

Coarse or low porosity hair needs some assistance with receiving moisture and can benefit from a cuticle-raising cleanse before deep conditioning for enhanced results.

Low Product Buildup

Natural gals that do not use a lot of product, no chemicals, and/or live a sedentary lifestyle without a lot of sweating may find that their hair does not require a heavy deep treatment. They therefore may decide to skip the wet condition and pre-shampoo session before applying their conditioner or they may choose to use a mild shampoo made of non-ionic surfactants or a shampoo with zwitterionic surfactants that hold a positive and negative charge.

The choice is yours. Add this additional information to your repertoire to make an informed decision on your deep conditioning methods based on your individual hair care needs.

Do you deep condition on wet or dry hair?

This article has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Janelle Sands · Published December 28, 2023

On Facebook, CurlTalk, and in the comments below articles, curlies often ask us: can a daily conditioner be used as a leave-in? Let’s start with intention. Why would someone use a daily conditioner (aka a rinse-out conditioner”> in this way?

• You ran out of leave-in conditioner
• You need to save money
• You want to downsize your product arsenal
• You like the hold and weight of the daily conditioner, which is commonly used for wash and go’s (for example (Mahogany Curls)

What’s the difference between daily conditioners and leave-ins?

Though you may not be aware that your hair holds an electric charge, cosmetic scientists are, and they formulate your hair products accordingly. Hair holds a negative charge, and the strength of that charge is based on the hair’s porosity. For example, dry, chemically treated, and damaged hair will have a strong negative charge. Conditioners are formulated to hold a positive charge, therefore attracting one to the other.

Daily Conditioner

Daily conditioners hold a positive charge and act to virtually fill in the gaps and cracks in the cuticles or outer protective layer of the hair shaft. This cuticle can chip away over time from regular weathering, chemical processing, and excessive manipulation, and a conditioner is necessary to smooth and strengthen the strands by repairing its shaft.

Leave-in Conditioner

The leave-in conditioning formula is similar, as it is also a conditioner that attracts to the most negative areas of the hair. However, there are key differences. The leave-in is lightly formulated and can be used after the daily conditioning formula has been rinsed out. The leave-in conditioner is a barrier surrounding the hair shaft while the hair is prepped, detangled, and styled after cleansing and conditioning. Although it is full of conditioning agents, attempting to survive solely on a leave-in conditioner would be inadequate for regular wear and tear of the hair. It is in your best interest to use products as they were formulated for the best results.

It is in your best interest to use products as they were formulated for the best results.

On the other hand, there may be times when you are out of your leave-in conditioner and opt not to rinse out your regular conditioner. If that is the case, let’s hear from an expert. We asked a representative from Miss Jessie’s, whether their Miss Jessie’s Crème De La Crème Conditioner could be used as a leave-in rather than the Miss Jessie’s Leave-in Condish, and they said that “Yes, you may use our regular conditioner as a leave-in as an alternative if you don’t have a leave-in, however, make sure to use less than the amount you would if you were rinsing it out to avoid buildup on the hair and scalp, causing it to flake and affect the outcome of your styling results.”

Miss Jessie’s products have lightweight formulas, so in their case, this may work for you. As I Am is another hair care line that approves leaving in its As I Am Long & Luxe Pomegranate & Passion Fruit Conditioner Strengthening and Hydrating Treatment. But we would not recommend using daily conditioners with heavier consistencies as your leave-in.

Beware of buildup

A buildup of product residue on the hair shaft can impact your hair’s ability to be enhanced by other hair products (i.e., styling products”> because the formula of a daily conditioner is stronger than that of a leave-in conditioner. Unfortunately, too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. So what makes DevaCurl and Miss Jessie’s conditioners risk-free? It is the absence of non-water soluble silicones. Use this guide when choosing your conditioner to prevent product buildup by Audrey Davis Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair. 

Removed easily with water

• Dimethicone copolyol
• PEG/PPG silicones
• Laurel methicone copolyol
• Hydroxypropyl

Stubborn/Requires Detergent/surfactant to remove

• Dimethicone
• Dimethiconol
• Behenoxy dimethicone
• Phenyl trimethicone
• Simethicone
• Trimethicone
• Polydimethysiloxane

If your daily conditioner contains any of the stubborn ingredients on the list above, it is best not to use it as your leave-in conditioner.

Take your learned information and decide what is best for your precious strands. Maybe your hair is prone to buildup, so you choose not to take risks, or maybe you change your conditioner brand to include easy-to-remove ingredients to suit your tastes. The choice is yours!

So, what do you use as a leave-in conditioner? 

By Janelle Sands · Published October 17, 2023

Knowing when and how to utilize a moisturizer or a leave-in conditioner can be quite difficult to determine no matter what level of curly hair experience you have. You are in good company if you’ve been wondering if you should replace your leave-in conditioner with the newest water or cream-based moisturizer on the market. Today, we analyze two Carol’s Daughters best sellers, Hair Milk Original Moisturizer Leave-in Moisturizer and Monoi Repairing Anti-Breakage Spray to distinguish the differences between a formulated moisturizer and a formulated leave-in conditioner.

Prior to the recent widespread acceptance of textured hair, leave-in conditioners were traditionally popular for women with straight hair while moisturizers marketed toward straight hair were uncommon. Many women with textured hair used grease and cream-based moisturizers quite frequently, but rarely used a leave-in conditioner. Today, products that women previously expressed no interest in are now being assessed for usability, regardless of ethnicity. This has left us with many questions and a thirst for understanding, no pun intended.

Purpose of a Leave-in Conditioner

The leave-in concoction is the lightest form of conditioning compared to the rinse out or deep conditioner and serves best as a quick, light means for elasticity, hydration, and manageability.

A typical leave-in conditioning formulation was created to fortify the hair with strength and/or moisture, aid in detangling, and provide ease of styling without weighing down the hair or creating a buildup. These concoctions were made to allow the freedom of frequent, daily usage without unwanted side effects. This is usually a third step after cleansing and conditioning, but it can also be used as a daily refresher. The leave-in concoction is the lightest form of conditioning compared to the rinse-out or deep conditioner and serves best as a quick, light means for elasticity, hydration, and manageability.

Example: Monoi Repairing Anti-Breakage Spray

Top 5 Fab Ingredients Breakdown

1. Water- ultimate hydrating agent
2. Cyclopentasiloxane- a silicone-based detangler and solvent that provides slip and protection
3. Cyclohexasiloxane- a silicone-based carrying and wetting agent, emollient, and polymer
4. Isododecane- enhances the ability to spread product and prevents moisture depletion
5. Pentylene glycol- a moisture-binding humectant that can be used as a solvent and preservative.

Purpose of a Moisturizer

A good moisturizer will have both hydrophilic molecules that will attract and hold moisture to the hair strand

As curly hair tends to lose moisture quickly, a good moisturizer can be very helpful in retaining water levels within the hair strand, helping to maintain the integrity of the hair. A good moisturizer will have both hydrophilic molecules that will attract and hold moisture to the hair strand and hydrophobic agents that will seal and protect the newly added moisture.

Example: Carol’s Daughter  Hair Milk Original Leave-in Moisturizer

Top 5 Fab Ingredients Breakdown

1. Water — ultimate hydrating agent
2. Glycine soja (soybean oil — an emollient and occlusive agent that protects and adds conditioning that provides sheen, suppleness, and body to hair)
3. Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond oil”>— an emulsifier and lubricant that provides slip and prevents moisture loss)
4. Theobroma cacao seed butter (cocoa-an emollient that provides elasticity to hair)
5. Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter-an emollient and natural plant-based moisturizer)

From the experts

According to a Carol’s Daughter spokesperson, “A leave-in conditioner is a conditioning product that you do not have to rinse out of your hair. These contain humectants and help attract moisture back into the hair, which creates a stronger, more flexible hair strand. Moisturizers have all the goodies you know and love, like shea butter, to intensely hydrate curls, coils, kinks, and waves, plus soybean oil to soften and strengthen it, too.”

“The only difference between a leave-in conditioner and a moisturizer is that a leave-in conditioner is meant to leave in your hair to condition your hair or refresh your hair with a daily moisturizer is an intense, slightly denser lotion that can be applied to coarse, thick hair, as it can weigh down fine hair,” according to the spokesperson.

Take away

Both formulations can be used for multiple purposes, however, the original intent of a leave-in conditioner is to frequently condition and provide ease of styling. The purpose of a moisturizer is to attract and retain moisture to denser, thirsty strands. Tighter curls can use both, as a moisturizer will not typically deliver the slip and detangling effects of a leave-in conditioner. Nor will a leave-in conditioner provide the long-lasting intense, moisture retention lithathe formulated moisturizer does. Depending on the hair type and hair need, choosing one option may or may not be sufficient.

Decision making

1. Before rushing to purchase a product that is getting all the rave, ask yourself “What are my unique hair needs?”
2. Second, read the product promises and guidelines before making a selection. Although marketing companies may not always use the correct scientific terms, they will go to great lengths to effectively communicate in layman’s terms.

Do you prefer a leave-in conditioner or a moisturizer? Do you use both? Tell us your faves!

This article was originally published in 2014 and has been updated.

By Janelle Sands · Published August 24, 2023

Hair loss due to stress is so common that almost everyone has experienced it or knows someone who has. This type of stress-induced hair loss can occur through an intense change in the body like pregnancy, postpartum, menopause, or obsessing over life.

These occurrences bring about high levels of change within your body, which can result in hair loss. While many of us have noticed these changes throughout the ebbs and flow of life, many still do not understand what is happening within.

Knowing what we know thus far, I think it is time to ask the really important questions like how do hormones affect us. Here is a closer look.

Hormones and Your Hair Growth Cycle

According to Sophia Emmanuel, Certified Trichologist from Crown Worthy Trichology Studio, “The endocrine system is made up of endocrine glands. The ovaries, thyroid, pancreas, and other glands all secrete hormones that circulate in the blood and regulate how we function. Hormone imbalance can affect body activity such as hair growth. Too much of a hormone or not enough can lead to diffuse hair loss, also known as telogen effluvium, defined as excessive hair loss from all over the scalp.”

Emmanuel emphasizes, “No one will go bald with diffuse hair loss because the hair is replaced, but the hair can look and feel thin because the rate of hair growth is slower than the hair loss. Normally our hair sheds during the telogen stage about 50 to 100 per day. Telogen hair appears on clothing, in the shower, and is what we see on a daily basis. The abnormal hair loss takes place when anagen hairs of the hair growth cycle prematurely shift to the telogen stage, which is the resting, and hair fall cycle. When there is an abnormal amount of hair follicles in the telogen stage diffuse hair loss occurs.”

You see, the endocrine system works to keep balance in the body. Unfortunately, when our body is off balance, a physical side effect is diffuse hair loss.

Photo  Unsplash

How do pregnancy hormones affect hair growth?

When pregnant the body experiences an imbalance as changes arise. The pregnancy glow appears in the skin and suddenly hair growth is abundant! Unfortunately, it does not always last. The sudden growth occurs as certain hairs in the hair growth cycle become suspended on the anagen phase, therefore you see fuller, denser hair:

“During pregnancy, the high levels of estrogen increase hair growth. Approximately three months after pregnancy, estrogen along with other hormones return to normal levels” says Emmanuel. “Normal hair shedding that should have taken place during pregnancy begins at this point. This hair fall is temporary and no treatment is required. The hair loss will stop after three months and your hair should return to normal after six months.”

A common myth attributed to this hair loss is a deficiency diet. Although maximizing nutrient intake during that time is always welcomed for mother and baby, it may not eliminate the results of hormonal activity. It is recommended to welcome all change that occurs during this time to cause no added stress on your body. To expect change will help in coping and the emotional effects of hair loss could be helped through a trip to the hairdresser for a new haircut to support and conceal the hair loss. Deep condition your hair and treat the scalp with an essential oil massage. From here gently care for your strands to not induce excessive shedding. It is recommended to continue using prenatal vitamins for up to a year after delivery. The American Pregnancy Association recommends the following:

1. Consulting with a healthcare provider.
2. Avoiding tight ponytails, rollers, or braids.
3. Eating a diet rich in fruit and vegetables to protect the hair follicles and encourage growth.
4. Using wide tooth combs.
5. Minimize heat styling.

Photo by Anthony Metcalfe on Unsplash

How does menopause affect hair growth?

The dreaded change for a woman can be devastating if not understood. While this change can bring about hot flashes and mood swings, it is a natural part of life for women and must be understood to bring about acceptance and not exacerbate its effects. During menopause, a woman’s estrogen lessens and stress typically increases. However, every woman has a different outcome.

Emmanuel says, “During menopause, androgenetic alopecia can occur in women genetically predisposed. During menopause ovaries stop producing estradiol but continue to produce androgens, male sex hormones, that may influence thinning of pubic and axillary hair (underarm hair) but increase facial hair. Treatments for genetic thinning caused by menopause include hormone therapy, which involves the taking of estrogens with cyproterone acetate, a progesterone that suppresses androgen activity in the body. Aldactone (spironolactone) is another drug prescribed by doctors. The topical treatment of Rogaine 2% or 5% for women can be used and can be purchased over the counter. Herbal remedies include taking saw palmetto. Research shows that saw palmetto may block 5-alpha reductase, the enzyme that converts DHT into testosterone. DHT is a sex steroid and androgen hormone responsible for hair loss.”

Women who are not genetically predisposed to androgenetic alopecia will want to visit their doctor or a certified trichologist to discuss hair loss. Typical recommendations include diet alterations, iron increase, and a weekly workout regimen to limit and relieve stress.

Image by Luis Galvez/Unsplash

How does stress affect hair growth?

No matter what age, sex, or stage of life you are in, stress can and will wreak havoc on your body during the stages of pregnancy, menopause, or any other hormonal transitions and stress. Stress is characterized by worry doubt, fear, and anxiety or brought on through disease or trauma to the body. Even lack of sleep or a nutrient deficient diet can bring about additional stressors, causing diffuse hair loss.

“Stress increases the production of five hormones. Growth hormone from the pituitary gland, thyroxin from the thyroid gland, adrenaline from the adrenal medulla, glucocorticoids from the adrenal cortex, and glucagon from the pancreas”says Emmanuel. “When these hormones increase, blood sugar levels increase taking the body to a diabetic state (hyperglycemia). When stress continues in the body for too long, all these hormones decrease. This takes the body to a hypoglycemic state, also known as low blood sugar. Both hypoglycemia and hyperglycemia cause diffuse hair loss. Correct diet and taking minerals such as chromium and zinc can help control blood sugar levels.“

The circle of life itself brings about many unavoidable changes. Thankfully we have the endocrine system to help us keep our balance. Knowing the intricate details of what is happening within can help you prepare when your time arises. Keeping a balanced, healthy life is key to making it beyond these transitions. A healthy diet rich in protein, fruits, vegetables, and high doses of water is necessary. Increasing your physical activity also strengthens the systems and helps to regulate your hormones.

Take care of your body to help your body take care of you.

Check out: How Four Women Dealt With Postpartum Hair Loss

This article has been updated with additional resources.

By Janelle Sands · Published August 21, 2023

You may be familiar with the term alopecia from “traction alopecia” which can be caused by tension from braiding and weaving, but there are several types of alopecia with varying causes. Here is what you need to know, according to stylist and curl educator Janelle Sands and Sophia Emmanuel, IAT Certified Trichologist, licensed cosmetologist and hair loss specialist. 

Hair loss can be a painful experience for women, especially without knowledge of treatment or even full understanding of what it is. Much of our lack of understanding is directly connected to the complexity of hair loss. Its causes, treatments, and everything in between requires individual, customized diagnosis and treatment. Before we dive into how hair falls, let’s first review how hair grows.

The Growth Cycle

Hair is produced from the hair follicles along the outermost layer of the scalp. As the body creates new hair cells, existing hair cells are pushed through the hair follicle and nourished by blood vessels to form keratin hair strands. This growth occurs in stages and each hair can be in different stages of the hair growth cycle at random.

• Anagen is the growth phase in which the cells are highly active resulting in hair growth that can last between 2-6 years based on your body.  
• Catagen is the transition phase when growth stops and can last up to three weeks. 3% of all hairs are in this state at a given time. During this state the club hair, hair that is preparing to shed, begins is taking form.
• Telogen is the resting phase that can last about three months. This phase marks the full completion of the club hair that will shed up to 100 club hairs daily.

This natural process of growing, transitioning, and resting follows the natural cycle of the hair growth. Because of other variables, the hair growth process can be intersected, resulting in thinning of the hair. Although difficult to notice at first, continued thinning will be very noticeable and can affect a person’s confidence in themselves and their appearance.

Ask An Expert

Sophia Emmanuel, IAT Trichologist with Crown Worthy Trichology Studio, chimes in to explain hair loss in terms of alopecia, the Latin word for hair loss. Some forms of alopecia can be permanent and others temporary based on what occurs to the hair follicle.

Temporary Hair Loss

According to Emmanuel, “Temporary hair loss occurs with non-scarring alopecia. Non-scarring alopecia means that there are follicles present on the scalp, so hair re-growth is not a problem. Non scarring alopecia occurs when there is an imbalance in the body. Stress, medical issues, nutritional deficiencies, ring worm, hormonal imbalance, crash diets, and hereditary problems can cause non-scarring alopecia. Non-scarring alopecia is temporary because it corrects itself once the imbalance in the body is treated. Correction of non-scarring alopecia takes three months after treatment of the imbalance in the body. The key is to get to the root of the hair loss by having blood work done.”

Permanent Hair Loss

According to Emmanuel, “Permanent hair loss occurs when a scarring alopecia is present on the scalp. When there is scarring the hair loss is permanent because scar tissue on the skin of the scalp block the opening of the follicle. Scarring alopecia can be caused by auto immune problems, where a group of white blood cells attack other cells of the hair follicle and causes scarring. Other problems that cause scarring alopecia are wearing tight or heavy ponytails, braids and extensions, burns, blunt trauma to the head, surgery of the scalp, and scalp infections that go untreated.”

Androgenic Alopecia

Androgenic alopecia refers to the genetic condition of male pattern baldness and female pattern baldness or hair loss caused when enzymes in the body turn the hormone testosterone into dihydrotestosterone also known as DHT. This hormone has the effect of shrinking the hair follicle. It aesthetically appears very differently in both men and women. For example, the Journal of Investigative Dermatology says that “the prevalence of mid-frontal hair loss increases with age and affects 57% of women and 73.5% of men aged 80 and over.” 

Alopecia Totalis and Alopecia Universalis

This is a rapid, more severe form of androgenic alopecia, not limited to one region of the scalp and could spread among the entire scalp and other parts of the body including eyebrows, eyelashes, and body hair. While the cause is unknown it is believed to be stress related or an autoimmune disorder, which is when “the body’s immune system attacks and destroys healthy body tissue by mistake. There are more than 80 types of autoimmune disorders.” – The US National Library of Medicine

Cicatricial Alopecia

This is a permanent type of hair loss in which the hair follicles are destroyed, leaving scar tissue. There are two different types: primary and secondary. Its primary type can occur for reasons unknown and appears through inflammation of the hair follicles inhibiting cell development. Secondary cicatricial alopecia occurs from outside secondary sources of scarring hair loss such as a severe burn, infection, tumor, radiation, or other physical damage.

Traction Alopecia

This form of alopecia occurs in an individual based on scalp interactions like braiding, weaving, or high tension styling that cause excessive pulling and result in hair breakage and scalp scarring. Harsh chemical treatments like relaxers, bleach, and other coloring procedures can also cause traction alopecia and can be either permanent or temporary based on the severity.

Treatment for alopecia

All forms of alopecia vary by severity and must receive consultation from a certified trichologist or dermatologist. Common forms of treatment include the use of the drugs minoxidil, finasteride, and/or spiranolaction. Cosmetic surgical procedures are also becoming more popular and effective for hair growth replacement.

Read more: Is Your Medication Causing Hair Loss?

Additional Reference: The Belgravia Centre

This article was updated in August 2023.

By Janelle Sands · Published June 14, 2023

We are often taught not to put a comb to our hair unless it is drenched in conditioner. We are also taught never to brush the hair when wet. So which is it? In what state is our hair weaker or stronger?

Is our hair weaker or stronger when it’s wet?

To answer this question, we must understand the structure of the hair strand. Each strand of hair is made up of keratin proteins. Keratin has a long strand of amino acids made up of cohesive chains held together by the following chemical bonds:

• hydrogen
• saline
• hydrophobic
• the strongest of the bonds, disulfide bridges

The weaker hydrogen bond can be temporarily broken by water, heat, and humidity, making the hair moldable. The disulfide bridges are much stronger and can only be broken with chemical treatments. This breakdown of the bonds when the hair is wet makes it weaker, more fragile, and more malleable. When it dries the bonds are reinstated, strengthening the hair. For curly women this is easy to see. This entire process explains your shrinkage experience.

Wet hair is stretched and loose yet when it dries, it shrinks back to its original curl pattern. For this reason, wet hair is perfect for re-styling and “setting” or “cooling” the hair into different shapes and styles.

Grooming dry hair is much less damaging to hair than wet.- Dr. John Gray, Beauty Bulletin

Even though wet hair allows for temporary altering of the hair rather than permanent, hair is its strongest when it is dry and all bonds are intact. This really depends on your hair type and your preferred styling methods. The good news is that success can be achieved with both options given the right circumstances. Let’s explore the advantages and disadvantages of dry detangling to wet detangling.

The benefits of dry detangling

The state of dry hair is much stronger than the state of wet hair. While the hair is dry there are a few different methods for grooming including finger detangling, combing with a wide tooth comb, or brushing with a paddle or vent (Denman) brush. When finger detangling, you should be able to gently undo minor knots and tangles. Those with tightly curled and coiled hair should coat their fingers with a lubricating oil to provide a smooth barrier that lessens friction. Long, smooth, or looser curl patterns can be detangled with a brush by starting at the ends and working up to the roots.

The downside of dry detangling

The downside is the time and patience it could take to gently dry detangle a head full of hair. Another risk is that combing dry hair could result in snapping strands or chipping away the cuticle as hair lacks flexibility in this state. If choosing to take this route, do so with an oil to protect the strands.

The benefits of wet detangling

The best advantage to detangling wet is the host of water-based conditioners you can use to assist you along the way. Today there are detanglers, leave-in conditioners, and even regular conditioners formulated to coat the hair strand and smooth the cuticle to support the hair shaft while you gently and fearlessly comb your hair from ends to roots. Although the strands are most fragile when wet, the hair is flexible in this state and can withstand a comb when used carefully with product.

The downside of wet detangling

The downside to this is that severely tangled hair could tangle even more when interacting with water. Not to mention the overall risk of manipulating a strand in its weakest state is breakage. If choosing to take this route, always apply a slippery conditioner to support your efforts and meet your delicate strands with a delicate touch.

Who should wet & dry detangle?

There are pros and cons to both wet and dry detangling and both techniques are the right answer for different circumstances.

If you have dry, coarse, or tightly curled and coiled hair

Dry, coarse, or tightly curled and coiled hair should use wet detangling only when laden with slippery conditioner. For severe tangling, finger detangle with coconut oil before wet detangling with conditioner. 

If you have looser curls, thick, and heavier density hair 

Looser curls, thick, and heavier density hair types could lightly spritz with penetrating oil like argan before dry detangling with a paddle brush or Denman brush before and during a cleansing session. After a cleansing session, coat your strands with a smoothing conditioner before combing or brushing.

Read next: The Best Brushes for Detangling Curly Hair – According to Curl Stylists

What method works best for you?

Writer Janelle Sands is a textured hair stylist with over 20 years of experience and the Founder of Secret Curl Society.

This article has been updated.

By Janelle Sands · Published August 28, 2022

Cupuacu butter is a hair ingredient that can meet natural hair’s burning desire for a rich, moisturizing emollient with lasting effects. Let’s dig deep into the history and benefits of cupuacu butter, and how you can start using it in your natural hair routine.

What is Cupuacu Butter?

Cupuacu butter is a rich, highly beneficial butter for the hair and skin. It is being formulated in more textured hair products due to its valuable and long lasting conditioning benefits. It is typically cold pressed, filtered, and refined of the cupuacu tree, found in the rainforests of Brazil and Cuba. This tree is related to the familiar cacao tree, and cupuacu seeds have often been used to make white chocolate and other delicious treats. The butter is known to be an excellent plant based alternative to lanolin, a long-standing popular emollient staple in hair and skin products derived from the natural sebum of sheep.

Getty Images

However unlike lanolin, an abundance of phytosterols in cupuacu butter benefits and repairs dry and damaged skin along with free radical fighting polyphenols. According to LUSH, the fresh handmade cosmetic company, “Free radicals are highly reactive and can start a damaging chain reaction in our cells, the results of which have been linked with aging.” This butter is known to heal and restructure the skin and scalp and improve elasticity and hydration levels. As a natural skin protectant, cupuacu has the ability to absorb UVA/UVB rays and functions as an anti-inflammatory and emulsifying agent. The attributes are endless.

Cupuacu in Your Hair Products

Product developers are well aware of the goodness cupuacu butter can bring to their customers so extensive research has gone into the best ways the butter can live out its potential. Rachel E. Blistein, founder of Original Moxie Product Company describes why she chose to indulge us with the butter, “Cupuaçu butter is rich in phytosterols and possesses a high capacity for water absorption. For this reason, it has a unique ability to help retain moisture by regulating the balance of natural lipids within the hair. In our testing, we discovered an especially effective synergy between the penetrating qualities of cupuacu butter and the sealant properties of castor oil. When they are combined, as they are in our Emollience Pre-treatment, they produce an extremely effective at combating chronic dryness.”

In our testing, we discovered an especially effective synergy between the penetrating qualities of cupuacu butter and the sealant properties of castor oil. 

Cupuacu Butter as a Pre-Poo Ingredient

After looking into the Original Moxie Emollience Pre-treatment it was clear why this ingredient would be used in this fashion. The pre-treatment is a formula that is applied to the hair while dry and prior to cleansing. Cosmetic chemists have warned us for years about the damage that can occur from frequent styling and manipulating the hair, which even includes shampooing and conditioning. Fine hair or damaged hair could use some extra strength and protection, even before operating their common cleansing ritual. But this product is for every hair type. Original Moxie goes the distance to communicate that the cupuacu advantage can be obtained by any curl pattern and hair density. Listen as Owner Blistein, explains her reason for creating the Emollience Pre-Treatment:

“I was inspired to create a pre-treatment based on my own experience of extremely dry hair, particularly in the winter months. Inspiration struck when I was washing dishes one day. I realized that, just like a sponge, if your hair is wet, it cannot absorb as much oil because the surface area is already fully saturated. But if the lipid core of your hair is depleted, it needs oil first and water second. This is often the culprit with chronically dry hair, or hair that persistently remains dry and brittle despite heavy conditioning and leave-in products being applied. The Emollience Pre-Treatment is intended to infuse the hair with oil so that, when water is applied, the hair can better retain that much-needed moisture.”

Cupuacu butter has rushed to our aid at just the right time. Cupuacu can benefit any curly struggling with moisture retention, dry brittle hair, or breakage by infusing your hair with moisture, increasing elasticity, and softness. Products with cupuacu would be good for all hair types, those who wash and go, chemically-treated hair, and curlies who live in extreme weather conditions. 

Have you tried cupuacu butter on your hair? 

By Janelle Sands · Published August 27, 2022

So you have flakes? Well, tell me what type of flakes? Were you aware that all flakes are not created equal? So, how is your scalp? Okay, scalp tenderness? Redness? Tell me more!

That is how a consultation with a trichologist might go. This underrated field of study specializes in the health of the hair and scalp. You might be wondering what is the difference between a licensed cosmetologist and a trichologist. Well, cosmetology is the study of hair design and beauty services, although many stylists take a healthy hair care stance. To take it a step further, there is also the field of dermatology, the study of the skin, scalp, hair, and nails. These three branches of personal care work together to keep your hair and scalp healthy and beautiful, among other things. At certain times you may need to solicit the help from these professionals. As the trichologist’s true specialty is in hair and scalp, we have consulted with Lisa Akbari, trichologist and product developer, to enlighten us on the proper care of scalp psoriasis.

Getty Images

What is Scalp Psoriasis?

Scalp psoriasis is an inflammatory skin disorder that can affect but is not limited to the scalp. Symptoms include scaly patches, itching, redness, raised areas, bleeding, or hair loss or thinning. However, sometimes there are very few undetectable symptoms for scalp psoriasis.

If you are unsure as to whether or not you are affected by this condition, it is important to consider seeing a professional. The overwhelming amount of online information can often cause us to think we can self diagnose and self-treat our conditions. Lisa Akbari, trichologist and award winning product developer, warns against such treatment: “If your symptoms are visible on the superficial layers of the skin, the epidermis, then you can treat at home or with the assistance of a trichologist. A stylist or barber may not be able to assist. If you see bleeding or your scalp is oozing, this only occurs in the dermis as there are no blood vessels in the epidermis, therefore you will most likely need the assistance of a dermatologist.” A correct diagnosis is fundamental to start healing scalp psoriasis. This scalp disorder, untreated, can result in hair follicle damage, hair loss, and/or infection.

How to Treat Scalp Psoriasis

Treatment is based on the diagnosis. Minor cases may start treatment with a natural method before progressing to prescription medications. Lisa Akbari provides her recommendation “the best way to treat this is to create a clean, acidic, stimulated, hydrated environment on the surface of the scalp.”

Shampoo – yes even if you have natural hair

Although ladies with natural or kinky hair have been taught to stay away from shampoos and adopt conditioner-only routines (for fear of over-drying the hair”>, that method is problematic for scalp disorders. You really need to clean with a clarifying shampoo that is scalp-friendly, having the same pH as the hair and scalp to prevent disturbing the basic chemistry of the surface of the scalp.

Maintain your pH level

Maintain the pH from the acid mantle, which secretes the sebum that gives the hair and scalp its pH of 4.5-5.5.

Stimulate your scalp

Perform a deep tissue or pressure massage to the scalp by rotating the tissue with fingers rather than scratching or “lifting the dandruff,” which is horrible for the scalp. While it feels good at first, it will eventually hurt. Many people with scalp psoriasis tend to scratch, disturbing the renewing and healing process. This only causes more pealing.

Hydrate your scalp

If you are diagnosed you want to make sure that you apply the given prescription and use it all over the surface of the skin. That will seal your hydration and offer anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties to be infused into the skin to help you heal. If you are treating via natural methods, you need to do something simple. After clarifying, take jojoba, which is closest to skin oil, and drip tea tree oil in there for to oil the scalp while the hair is wet. Keep in mind that too much tea tree oil could cause you to burn. Follow up on a daily basis or twice a day with the same solution.

A time to heal

The skin will renew itself when consistently in a clean, acidic, stimulated, and hydrated environment. After 45 days, it will stabilize. Remember if you see blood or oozing, see a dermatologist.

Scalp disorders can be very complex, as there is more than what meets the eye. Do your due diligence in receiving a professional screening when addressing a concern about your hair and scalp. Between your stylist, barber, trichologist, and dermatologist, you can create an environment for healthy hair and a healthy scalp.

What has helped your scalp psoriasis?

By Janelle Sands · Published October 26, 2021

1. Your stylist doesn’t educate you on heat styling

2. You feel they don’t know about natural hair, it is a wrap!

3. Your expectations are not met

Before you even walk into the salon, take some time to think about what you want from the service. What is most important to you regarding your hair. Is the health of your hair most important, length, using organic products, salon cleanliness, etc.? Know what you are looking for, that way when you see your needs displayed, you know if you have found a match.

4. Your consultation didn’t go well

This brief time period prior to the service is not just a time for the service provider to discover your needs, but it is also your time to discover whether the stylist is capable and willing to meet your needs. This session involves you telling the stylist what you want, being as specific as possible. It is important to know that there is a language that hairdressers speak, which you may not know and therefore communication may be an issue. Bring photos along with your verbal descriptions to effectively articulate what you want. Then, be an open listener to the stylist. Listen beyond her words, listen to her passion. Listen to know why she is in this business. This alone may give you most of what you need to know. If she communicates that she loves natural hair, loves women, and loves this business, you are on the right track.

Then, observe whether she is capable of performing what you need. Ask her for some photos of her work or ask her when was the last time she performed the style or service you are requesting. You as the consumer are welcome to ask as many questions as you please. High-end salons may have a charge for consultations that span beyond 15 min. but this cost will be well worth it, as it ensures peace of mind for you and clarity for your service provider.

If you are left unsure, undecided, or do not have peace after this consultation or after the onset of the service, then kindly communicate that you appreciate his or her time, but will explore other options. This entire transaction will require patience, confidence, and assertiveness to be effective. Do the work before hand to be completely prepared!

Have you ever interrupted your salon service?

By Janelle Sands · Published May 28, 2018

Photo Courtesy of Natalie Live

Let’s face it, naturally curly hair takes effort. This is not for the faint at heart, the weary, nor the lazy. If you have worn your natural curls for more than one year, I’d say you deserve the title of Honorary Stylist. Wouldn’t you agree? To the curlies who have been sweating to make hair magic happen at home, you could take your hair conjuring to another level by adding a hooded dryer to your magic box. Here are five reasons why you should invest in a hooded dryer.

The Deepest Conditioning

Conditioning your strands under heat provides the best hydration and strength to your hair. Regardless of the hair’s porosity, you reap the maximum benefits of doing a deep treatment under heat. In a study conducted by the Natural Hair Haven on conditioning with heat versus without heat, she concludes that, “Increasing the temperature of a conditioner to surface body temperature (around 35°C”> increases adsorption of a conditioner.”

Faster Drying Time

Say hello to crisp curls, twist outs, and roller sets. Long gone will be the days of not-so-dry braid outs or the “wash-n-sleep” curls gone wild. With a hooded dryer at home you can wash, and go straight to your hooded dryer for a few minutes of drying time, while you check your emails or prepare for your day. If drying time is a major factor in considering your purchase, choose a dryer with high wattage to get a range of heat options.

Editor’s note: NaturallyCurly contributor Lindsay Wilson says her hair takes 8 hours to dry, but when she uses her hooded dryer her hair dries in 1 hour. You can see what her Type 3 curls look like when dried with a hooded dryer vs. with a diffuser here.

Create Volume with Clips

For curlies who love the extra volume, you could give the diffuser a break and instead, opt for a wash and go curl set using Deva Clips or Spilo Duckbill Clips with your hooded dryer. Simply insert the clips where you want the volume and prepare to dry. Set the dryer on a lower setting and lift the dryer a little higher off of your head to allow your hair to expand. When you hair is almost dry, remove your clips, shake, and go.

Stretch Curls 

Curlies that opt for “laid” curls can finally get the stretch they’ve always wanted. Simply shingle product through your hair as slick as you like it. For added stretch at your roots, use Deva Clips or Spilo Duckbill Clips to smooth and stretch your desired areas. Bring your dryer down to cover your entire head, and set on a high flow (the temp does not have to be high”>. For extra stretch, add clips to the ends of your hair for added weight. After drying, remove clips and with your choice of oil, twirl the ends of your curls for a nice plump finish.

Salon Style Finish

Many factors contribute to that crisp salon finished look. You know, that look that makes us say, “Why can’t I achieve this look when I do it?” Sometimes it’s the products, the fancy techniques, the fresh perspective, the tools, or a combination of these factors. The hooded dryer is definitely a major player in the salon finish. There is something very unique about the heat from a hooded dryer. It is considered indirect heat. Based on the dryer type (ionic, ceramic, tourmaline”> it could reduce frizz, add shine, protect against damage, etc. To top it off, some dryers come with a cool setting to lock in your set, which could add a few days onto your style. Regardless of dryer type, the hooded dryer produces a crisp, shiny, flawless finish.

Convinced yet?

There are many great benefits to owning a hooded dryer for you to consider. You might just come one step closer to the quality finish you’ve always sought after.

If you’re shopping for a hooded dryer, CurlTalkers have used and liked the ION brand from Sally Beauty Supply, the Babyliss Therma, the Pibbs Hard-Hat Dryer and the Ionic Pro Rollabout Tourmaline Dryer.

By Janelle Sands · Published August 26, 2016

Photo Courtesy of Yeluchi

,0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15″>; margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% – 2px”>;” data-instgrm-version=”7″>

A photo posted by COLOUR (@get_colour”> on Jul 24, 2016 at 2:51pm PDT

Why choose a mobile hairstyling service over salon service

Colour: “Women are happy to choose us for their own convenience and lifestyle for special events or to satisfy their luxury VIP beauty needs as guests traveling through the Atlanta area. Colour allows for the comfort of a client’s own time within their own demanding schedule. This gives them more freedom and flexibility because the stylist will work around their schedule rather than the other way around like the traditional salon model.”

Yeluchi: “Yeluchi comes in handy for women who don’t have time to go to a salon. Or when you’re doing a lengthy, time-intensive hairstyle like box braids. We started Yeluchi because it was a service we needed ourselves. Sometimes I find it impossible to stop working and pull myself away from the computer. In moments like that, I’ve thought, wouldn’t it be great to have someone doing my hair while I work?

,0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15″>; margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% – 2px”>;” data-instgrm-version=”7″>

A photo posted by Yeluchi By Un-ruly (@weareyeluchi”> on Jul 31, 2016 at 6:31pm PDT

How stylists and clients are kept safe

Colour: “Our invite-only model naturally holds us to a higher standard. However, we take extra precautions through using the 360-degree system to rank the experience by both the stylist and the client. This keeps the individuals safe.  Additionally, we have a community manager who is on call and available if needed. We additionally gather information prior to the appointment to capture facts about pets, allergies, location, etc.”

Yeluchi: “One of the challenges that all the players in the at-home or on-demand industry (e.g. Uber and Airbnb”> are dealing with is how to keep both parties involved safe without the use of privacy-invading platforms. We use the industry standard practice of two-way reviews. Much in the same way our clients can send us feedback, our stylists also provide feedback on our clients. We have to respect our client’s privacy; we can’t perform background checks on our clients the way we can with the stylists we work with. But our stylists also know that if ever they feel unsafe at any point before or during an appointment, they should contact the authorities and leave right away.”

Will beauty standards diminish with an at-home service?

Colour: “On the contrary, many stylists who are referred are from our clients and friends. Therefore, these women have already made a name for themselves in the industry.  However, we have hosted open call auditions, which include technical demonstrations of key styles and services that showcase talent and professionalism. Our clients are looking for the higher-level experience and our stylists are looking to grow, expand, and always stay ahead of the trends. We do regular trainings to enhance our skills and stay sharp for the array of textured hair care and styling needs!”

Yeluchi: “We put the health of our customer’s hair first. In building our media platform, Un-ruly.com, we’ve heard too many stories of traction alopecia or damaged hair, so we make sure our stylists are not just styling our client’s hair but are also thinking about the health of their hair. We’re also big on professionalism and our stylists not only being talented, but also having a lot of experience.”

Sounds like they have thought of everything for your benefit! So, will you try this new industry trend for a more comfortable, trusted textured hair care experience? Both Yeluchi and Get Colour are being pressed by clientele to expand in other areas. Perhaps they will come to a location near you. This could very well be the new wave of the textured hair future, and as a stylist or client, this may very well be the answer to your hair care an styling woes!

Like what you see? For more articles like this, sign up for our newsletter!

In a hair rut? Follow us on Instagram for inspiration.

By Janelle Sands · Published February 11, 2016

Photo Courtesy of The Tiny Closet

The dark side of beauty products is just around the corner from you. At local grocery stores, beauty supply stores, boutiques, and local retailers you might find professional grade hair salon products for sale. Their location might surprise you, but the truth behind this gray market product distribution scandal will surprise you even more.

The sales formula of brand-name hair product companies involves selling directly to salon distributors or directly to professional, licensed cosmetology establishments such as hair salons, barber shops, and beauty colleges. This model has worked for years and has built a solid partnership between salons and product developers. The partnership has also helped the beauty business as a whole, incentivizing clients to seek out the stylists who use their preferred products and giving producers an outlet to sell their products. One of the many perks of this union between salons and product developers is education and training on styling techniques and methods to properly use specially formulated products, which is then passed on to the clients.

Unfortunately, the perversion of this process has lead to products being sold outside of this model that may be damaged, tampered, expired, or otherwise. The act of selling professional products or counterfeit products by unlicensed retailers is known as diversion. Professional product companies like Paul Mitchell print a statement on their bottles that reads, “Guaranteed only when sold by a professional hairdresser, otherwise it may be counterfeit, black market, old, or tampered with.”

The purchase of these counterfeit, gray market items have fewer pros than cons.

Drawbacks

• Health Risk – You could risk the health of your body and your hair with the use of potentially expired products that could contain rancid or bacteria-ridden ingredients. Also, you run the risk of using products that might have been laced with other chemicals, resulting in poor performance, an allergic reaction, or an infection. Is this worth it?  
• Price – Paying more than salon product price. The more a product exchanges hands, the more the product will cost because everyone must make a profit. Vikki Bresnahan, director of brand protection at John Paul Mitchell, estimates that “85-90% of the time, the customer will be paying a much higher price (10% more”> compared to direct purchase from the salon.”

Benefit

• Convenience – The one pro is also the only reason the counterfeit product sales exits. The convenience of shopping for your eggs, cheese, and bread and then making your way to the professional hair products on another aisle is the direct lure of the counterfeit, high risk market.  

How to Spot Counterfeit Products

Labels and Packaging

The Condition

Retailer

Legality

Bresnahan weighs in again: “While these actions are wrong, they are not criminal although we have tried to get legislation to make diversion illegal. True illegality on the other hand comes into play when someone in the company’s distribution chain breaches a contract. For example, a professional salon selling products to unauthorized dealers or distributors. However it is also illegal to steal or tamper with the company’s products.” Because of where the legalities lie, law enforcement and licensing does not routinely monitor this activity, however, professional product companies do communicate to express the unethical nature of counterfeit product sales. Bresnahan goes on to say that they disseminate “written letters to them saying the source of their products is suspect and they can’t guarantee they are buying quality products.”

At this point in the system any action taken will be that which originates with the professional product company.

Counterfeits to watch for

• Paul Mitchell
• Redken
• Aveda
• Matrix Essentials
• Phytologie
• Sebastian
• Aquage
• It’s a 10

Do you purchase counterfeit products? Did you know they existed?

This post was originally published March 2015 and has been updated for grammar and clarity.

By Janelle Sands · Published November 13, 2015

The controversy of whether or not to use a protein rich styler or not is one that can leave you dazed and confused if you are not careful.  Here is a simple way to know if a protein-based styler is right for your hair care regimen.

The Purpose of Protein in a Style

Our hair is comprised of a substance called keratin, which is essentially protein.  According to Hairdressing.ac, a hair dressing resource of the UK, “Live hair cells are generated inside the follicle by the papilla. As the new cells grow, the older cells die and are forced along the follicle towards the scalp. The dead cells are compressed to form a protein called keratin. The hair shaft that we see is the keratin emerging from the scalp. Fingernails are made of keratin, too.  Each hair consists of keratin, small amounts of water and a binding agent, which holds the keratin and water together.“  Hence, product developers in pursuit of strengthening and conditioning the hair have added protein to hair care products including stylers to replenish the keratin.

Remember that there are three layers to the hair strand.  The outer layer is the cuticle, made up on roof like shingles that protect the inner workings of the hair.  The mid section is known ad the cortex the area in which determines hair color and the innermost part of the hair is the Medulla, typically found in thick hair and course hair.  Baby hair or very fine hair can often be found without a medulla.

Let’s focus on the cuticle layer with normal wear and tear of the hair from daily elements of the world like wind, and water, the cuticle layer can chip away, making the hair weak. Add in harsh hair styling using heat or harsh hair practices and chemical services can make your hair even more susceptible to damage.  Therefore hair that is considered weak, damaged, or in need or repair, is perfect for protein rich styling products to REBUILD your hair strand and strengthen the weak areas and cracks along the hair shaft. 

When Protein Stylers are NOT for You

If you find that your hair is strong and shows no signs of weakness then you will not need additional strengthening.  To do so could give you what is known as “Protein Overload.”  This makes your hair “overly strong” and essentially begins to create a rough build up on the hair shaft making it brittle and dry feeling due to an imbalance of the moisture and strength.  Remember that the hair is made up of keratin, water and a binding substance mentioned above?  The presence of those three things creates the ideal, natural balance in the hair.  Therefore adding too much moisture or too much strength will create instability and cause unwanted issues.

Protein overload makes your hair “overly strong” and essentially begins to create a rough build up on the hair shaft making it brittle and dry feeling

How to choose your styler

If your hair is not weak or damaged, or if you are receiving your protein from protein treatments, then you may want to choose a protein-free styler. Give your hair what it needs.  Here is how to determine what your styling product is giving you:

1. First read the label to gather the purpose of the product.  Clues to protein based products are words like “Repair, Strengthen, Keratin, Kera, Reconstruct”  Any word that sounds like it will essentially build the strand can only do so with protein.
2. Second, check the back of the bottle and look at its contents, does it contain proteins? Here is a list of terms to search for:

• Hydrolyzed Keratin
• Rice Protein
• Soy Protein
• Wheat Protein
• Vegetable Protein
• Animal protein
• Casein
• Amino acids
• Silk
• Oat flour
• Collagen
• Panthenol

If you prefer to skip the task of deciphering your label altogether, you can opt for a protein-free styler instead. Ampro has a full line of protein-free stylers that will give you the hold and curl definition you need without exposing your hair to alcohol, parabens, proteins, sulfates, or dyes.

Pay close attention to the condition of your hair,  if it feels weak, damaged, or in need or repair, then you may want to consider a protein rich styling product that contains ingredients on the list above. However, if your hair is not displaying signs that it’s in need of repair then use protein-free stylers to avoid the dry and brittle feeling of protein overload.

This post is sponsored by Ampro.

By Janelle Sands · Published July 9, 2015

What’s in a daily conditioner? 

A daily conditioner is also known as a surface conditioner, cream rinse, or finishing rinse. These are usually formulated to be used in conjunction with a shampoo. They are designed for daily maintenance and manageability for your hair by conditioning the cuticle, making it lie smooth, enhancing shine, and reducing frizz. Manufacturers usually recommend leaving a daily conditioner on the hair for 1-5 minutes before rinsing. The purpose of a daily conditioning rinse is to moderately adsorb ingredients onto the surface of your hair. According to our Curl Chemist Tonya McKay, “adsorption describes the process when atoms or molecules are attracted to the surface of a material (hair”>.”

Manufacturers are careful not to create daily conditioners that will stick to the hair for too long. Daily conditioner formulations are made to last longer than a leave-in treatment, yet shorter than a deep treatment, making it safe and gentle enough for daily usage.

Common Ingredients found in conditioners

ChemistCorner says “for a hair conditioner to work, it has to be left behind. The primary conditioning agents include quaternized surfactants (quats”>, cationic polymers, silicones, emollients, and humectants.” Here are some examples of such ingredients found in conditioners:

Stearalkonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Behentrimonium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, water, to name a few…

Different formulations produce varied effects.

What’s in a deep conditioner?

Deep conditioners are also known as “pack” conditioners. They have a heavy, thick consistency and typically require longer treatment time, which can be anywhere between 10-30 minutes based on manufacturer’s instructions.

The effects of a deep conditioner, like a daily conditioner, include treatment to the surface of the hair. However, most deep conditioners also contain ingredients with low molecular weight. These ingredients penetrate the hair, nourishing between the cuticles, within the cuticle layers and/or within the cortex. Look for formulations with penetrating oils (coconut, avocado, argan, and olive”>, panthenol, hydrolyzed wheat proteins, and caffeine for unprocessed hair- with the cuticle in tact. According to Natural Haven Bloom other ingredients like amino acids, amodimethicone, amino silicones, artificial peptides, 18MEA, and hydrolyzed palm oil, for example can penetrate hair with damaged, extremely porous or chemically treated hair.

The great effects of deep conditioners are longer lasting than a daily conditioner, as deep conditioners have a higher viscosity, which can be measured by “thickness”, and long lasting sustainability. For example, honey has a much higher viscosity than water. The properties can last for weeks at a time before wearing away.

How does length of time impact conditioning levels?

Time does matter, when conditioning. It is best to follow the instructions of the package to know how long to leave your conditioner on your hair. It is in the best interest of the product company to give you the correct time frame. If you are unsure, you cannot go wrong by allowing your rinse out conditioner to sit between 1-5 minutes and your deep conditioner to sit for 30 minutes.

Does conditioning with heat help?

According to Natural Haven Bloom, heat does matter. In a scientific study, the amount of conditioning on the surface of the hair increased beyond the regular 5-10% adsorption rate from start to finish. Grab your processing cap and turn your deep condition up a notch!

So, is there really a difference between the two?

Absolutely! There are similarities and differences. Both conditioners carry a negative cationic charge, and are highly attracted to the positive charge of damaged hair. That being said, deep conditioners have a stronger cationic charge than daily conditioners do.

Both have the ability to attach to the surface of hair for excellent conditioning qualities. However, they are still different. It is important to understand that both conditioners have a place in your hair regimen. The daily conditioner is designed with everyday maintenance in mind and restores excess oils rinsed away with your shampoo, making the hair smooth, detangled, and manageable. The deep conditioner contains long lasting, penetrable ingredients benefitting the strand from the inside out by finding the damaged areas and filling them in order to temporarily rebuild the hair strands.

How to use a daily conditioner and deep conditioner

1. Always use a conditioner after cleansing with a shampoo or any cleanser.
2. Always follow the directions of the bottle regarding frequency of use, incorporating heat, and length of processing time. Excessive heat or processing times beyond manufacture instructions will not up the ante on your conditioning! 

A good starting point for the average curly would be to deep condition no less than once a month. If your hair is oily and very strong you can adjust this. Likewise, women with tighter curl patterns or Type 4 hair can deep condition more often because tighter curl patterns tend to be more porous and dry by nature. So, add this to your current regimen and take advantage of daily and deep conditioning the right way!

How often do you alternate your daily conditioner and deep conditioner? Can you tell the difference?

By Janelle Sands · Published July 7, 2015

Photo Courtesy of NATALIE LIVE

What’s in your curl cabinet this summer? Get fully stocked up on all the best summer goodies for midyear hair care and summer styling! Check your stash to make sure you’ve got the goods. Warm weather means more moisture in the air and strong UV rays. Look for products that will give you adequate hydration while protecting your strands from the harsh elements. Summer hair care calls for lighter cleansers, UV ray protectants, sealing oils, and textured stylers.

RELATED: Protect Your Hair from the Sun

Here are the best summer hair care products to transition to during the hottest days of the year.

The right cleanser

Light cleansers are often used in the summer due to the need to cleanse the hair more often. The summer heat increases sebum production and sweating in the blazing summer sun. Use Camille Rose Naturals Sweet Ginger Cleansing Rinse to keep the curls moist and hydrated while gently cleansing.

Light stylers

Light stylers are preferred to maintain your volume and define your curl pattern. Use a serum to illuminate your hair’s natural shine. Try Original Moxie Hold Up Defining Serum.  The silicone-free formula contains lemongrass, white willow bark, and Irish moss! For wavy hair, the natural beach wave look is the perfect go-to. Use the Ouidad Wave Create Sea Spray with seaweed and algae extracts for nourishment but also for soft, flirty texture. If your curls are prone to frizz, try a gel for extra hold that won’t weigh down your curls, like the popular DevaCurl Ultra Defining Gel or a natural aloe vera gel.

Curl refresher

You don’t have to start your wash and go process everyday. For second and third day hair, create your own curl refreshment with water and few drops of lavender. If DIY hair styling is not for you, use DevaCurl Mist-er Right to deodorize and restore your style. Don’t waste your time styling your hair, you’ve got waves to catch.

Protein-free deep treatment

Opt for protein-free for the summer months to soften your hair for touchable curls, coils, and waves. You can find formulated protein conditioners by looking at the packaging. If you see the words keratin, protein, reconstructor, or repair, you might be looking at a protein-rich conditioner, which is excellent for mushy, weak, and chemically-treated hair. However typically in the summer, we steer clear from heavy manipulative styling and wear free flowing styles. Try NaturelleGrow Marshmallow Root Slippery Elm Bark and Natural Cinnamon Conditioner. Shea butter, apricot oil, honey, and marshmallow root makes this supper slippery treatment a summer must-have!

RELATED: Top 10 Protein Free Deep Conditioners

A summer oil

Heavy oils are not as necessary in the summer months. Instead use lighter oil like the Sunny Isle Jamaican Organic Extra Virgin Coconut Oil with a powerful punch like coconut oil, which has a dual nature of strengthening and moisturizing. Apply as a last step to your styling and care routine or try it as a curl refresher for thick, coily hair.

So there you have it!  This is your moment, live your summer hair dreams with these moisture loving products this season.

Do you have a summer regimen?

By Janelle Sands · Published June 3, 2015

Having a patented technique, Sisterlocks does not follow the traditional methods of locking that most have heard of which includes locking with a two-strand twist or a palm roll.  The precision technique requires hands-on training directly from the company and they have done a marvelous job holding onto the integrity of the company.

This precision technique requires a unique Sisterlocking Tool to firmly style the locks flawlessly. When done correctly, the wearer can style the hair just as they would loose hair or even braids or micro braids.  However like anything worth doing, it requires commitment for lasting results. To preserve the prestige it deserves, I sought out professional Sisterlock loctician Elaine Hill from Dallas, Texas on how to install and maintain Sisterlocks.

Installation

It is essential that you see a certified Sisterlock TM Consultant for the classic technique. A consultant  will first schedule a consultation with you to determine how to proceed with your locks. Most everyone with a bit of texture is a great candidate for the method. However if you have straight hair, you would not be a candidate as a curl in the hair is necessary for the technique to work effectively. Also, if your hair is extremely weak, damaged or thinning and sparse hair, this may not be the best choice for you. Your consultation will also determine how long does it take to install and the cost.

Maintenance

According to Hill, “Maintenance is tightening as the hair grows out every 6 to 10 weeks. The wearer can do this process. However, it is recommended that the client should wait at least 6 months after the install to begin maintaining on their own and take the re-tightening class offered by Sisterlocks.”

Is this for you?

There are pros and cons to every hair procedure and doing your research will help you make the best decision for your hair. Consider some of the pros and cons to this technique and your lifestyle. Does it fit the goals you have for your hair? Hill brings up a few things to consider, “Pros are the versatility of it and the lifestyle change is definitely a plus. I can’t think of any cons, because you can flat iron the hair, use a curling irons, roller set, color, braid the hair, or wear it loose. Your hair always looks good!”

What to Know Before Getting Sisterlocks

Follow Tynette here:

Instagram and Caramel a la mode

Have you considered getting Sisterlocks?

By Janelle Sands · Published May 29, 2015

Tynette Photographed by Ryan Francisco

Will deep conditioning unravel your locs?

Dr. Kari: “A conditioning routine should be added to your hair regimen only after the locs have solidified. Conditioners soften the hair, and using them on starter locs or locs that are still in a development phase can interfere with the loc process and prevent locs from maturing. In the meantime, hot oil treatments and the application of oil-based products will keep locs lubricated and healthy. If the locs are colored it is important to use a conditioner formulated for color-treated hair or they will become extremely dry, brittle, and break off. The trick to using conditioners is making sure you have rinsed the conditioner completely from the loc so that it doesn’t leave behind residue.”

Do locs have limited styling options?

Dr. Kari: “It is great to explore the versatility of locs by curling them, crimping them and experimenting with other styles. Playing with your locs helps to dispel the myth that they are not versatile.”

Check out this video by lhamilt sharing 21 Super Simple Styles for Starter Locs, Short/Medium Locs, and Twists.

Do locs naturally thin as they grow?

“Loc thinning does occur as a result of improper care. Over-twisting the locs can cause thinning of the loc. The reality is, locs gain weight as they get longer. The prevention of thinning of the loc begins with how you start your locs. A strong base is required to support the weight of the loc as it gets longer. Breaking up the continuity of twisting with interlocking reinforces the loc to the scalp, eliminates weak points in the loc, and prevents breakage.”

So go ahead and condition your locs after they have fully bloomed or matured, style your hair in versatile looks that you love, and consider the interlocking technique for your hair as it creates a stronger base as your hair lengthens.

Read more: 3 Things You Need to Know About Locs and 3 Myths About Maintaining Locs with Dr. Kari

Did we answer all of your questions?  What loc care changes will you make moving forward?

By Janelle Sands · Published May 19, 2015

Photo Courtesy of Ladiswagg55

“You should cut off your frizz”

When starting your locs you will see a bit of frizz along the length of the loc. As your desire may be to have a smooth, consistent loc, you may be tempted to cut the frizz with scissors or shears as you would an individual braid extension. But could that damage the loc? Let’s see what Dr. Kari thinks about this practice. 

“Refrain from cutting the frizz from around the loc. Frizzing is a natural part of the loc process that happens during the ‘budding‘ phase. As the loc matures and solidifies, this frizz should become a part of the loc. If you cut this frizz, you risk thinning out the loc, which can create a weak spot and lead to breakage. This frizz can easily be wrapped or twisted around the loc during a touch-up appointment. Once the loc has solidified, it is okay to trim frizz from the hair that did not mat into the loc. I highly recommend a trained professional perform the loc trim so that you do not accidentally cut your loc off. With palm-rolling, you must be careful. The constant re-twisting and twisting too tight can weaken the strands and cause locs to break off. Think of a paper clip. If you twist it in the same direction long enough, you can actually break the paperclip and your hair is the same. So when starting locs using this method, be sure your stylist creates a base for your loc that is strong enough to support the weight of the loc as it gets longer. It is really important to section locs around the hair line large enough to support the loc and prevent breakage that can occur as a result of the constant manipulation of locs around the hair line during maintenance and styling.

“You should shampoo less”

Locs get dirty just like loose hair. Daily styling and consistent exposure to the elements cause buildup along the hair shaft while the scalp excretes its sebum. This too, when unmanaged, can attract dirt making it necessary to cleanse the hair and scalp. Dr. Kari helps us understand how best to regulate the oil production and grimy buildup.

“Locs can be shampooed as frequently as needed based on the level of activity and amount of products used in the hair on a regular basis. It’s just important to keep the locs well lubricated to prevent dryness and breakage of the loc and also helps to balance out the pH of the scalp.” says Dr. Kari.  A good quality natural oil is an excellent choice to use. The Ann Carol Coconut Lavender Oil and Ann Carol Peppermint Chamomile Oil products by Dr. Kar are a blend of natural and essential oils are a great option.

“You should sleep a special way”

Believe it or not, according to Dr. Kari Williams, “There are no inappropriate sleep methods with locs.”  So treat your locs as you would your hair!

Don’t be fooled, hair is hair no matter what styling methods you choose, take proper precautions and follow best practices to receive the best results!

Follow Dr. Kari Williams:

Instagram and Facebook