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Crochet braids or latch hook braids are the hottest trend on Instagram feeds right now; easy installation, affordable hair, low maintenance, and big results, you can’t beat that! But what happens when it is time to remove them? How do you remove them and what needs to be done to your actual hair? Well, Roshini has an extremely helpful removal tutorial that you can watch below followed by important after-care tips to ensure that your protective style does not become counterintuitive. 

What You’ll Need

• Scissors
• Oil
• Mirror

Post Extension Removal Treatment

1. Clarify

Clarify do not co-wash. When your hair has been in a protective style for 6-8 weeks or 1-3 months it is important that your scalp is thoroughly cleansed, especially if you braided the hair down with a thick styler and regularly applied oils to the scalp while the extensions were installed.

2. Deep Condition

After cleansing you will want to do a deep conditioning treatment for 15-20 min. with a plastic processing cap. This will help restore moisture that your hair did not receive with weekly washes, daily refreshers, and moisture from the air. A major issue that many women who wear protective styles experience is breakage, which is counterproductive to the purpose of protective styling.

3. Strengthen

If you regularly wear crochet braids or other extensions, your hair begins to experience points of weakness along the length of the strands due to repetitive manipulation. Too much of anything can be bad for the hair (e.g. puffs, over conditioning, product buildup”> so it is important to change your styling habits and incorporate protein treatments. If you are protein sensitive to even the lightest treatment, then consider hot oil treatments with oils full of ceramides like cottonseed oil. If the breakage persists, then it might be time for a trim.

Read more: Damaged Hair Repair Doesn’t Stop at Protein

4. Trim and Relax

Although your ends will not be as weathered because they were protected, it is important to remember that protective styling merely reduces split ends, it does not eliminate them so a trim might be due. Lastly, give your hair a break! And I don’t mean the ten hours of sleep before your installation appointment first thing in the morning. Like stated before, repetitive manipulation can do more harm than good to your hair.

To make the most of your protective style, it is important to care for your hair before the installation and after the removal. Most people (especially stylist”> prefer to braid the hair down after it has been blown out to expedite the process, so if you choose those means then these steps are extremely important.

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Toccara Ross is a professional basketball player who is a strong advocate of natural hair and an overall healthy lifestyle.

Shortly after graduating and playing at Iowa State University, she played abroad in France, Puerto Rico, Australia, Taiwan, Ecuador, & Colombia. On the court she is currently playing in Espoo, Finland and off the court she edits and generates content as the the co-founder of the blog Curly Deviants. 

NaturallyCurly: Tell us about your curly hair journey. When did you go natural and what inspired you?

Toccara: I should have gone natural a long time ago, back in college when I was sweating out my Mizani relaxers during two-a-days workouts. The fall of 2010, I decided now was the time and I was scared to death. I had never been too confident about my appearance, so cutting my hair was going to be a challenge. Before natural hair became this huge “trend” as some people may see it is, and before there was such a strong, supportive community, I was hairless with no idea how to take care of my coils. I wanted to grow it back immediately, but life happened and my decision to embark on a natural hair journey took on a whole new meaning. I made the decision to make one final cut and start fresh on Dec. 10, 2010, which was the day I buried my mother. This marked the start of not only my true natural hair journey but also the rebirth of my spirit; the metaphoric phoenix, rising from her ashes revealing something new, something stronger. My mother was my inspiration, not because she had natural (because she didn’t”>, but because her passing made me plant my feet firmer on the ground and re-evaluate everything I thought I already knew. Cutting my crown was only step one.  

Have you ever received any negative comments about your hair? How did you respond?

Toccara: I remember posting pictures on social media and instantly the men in my friendship circle were in shock. My hair at one point laid on my shoulders, and it had this beautiful natural auburn color. They couldn’t understand why I would cut it all off.  

Also, after growing my hair to what I felt like was a great length (it had some bounce to it when the wind was blowing”>, I sent my sister a message showing her my progress. I don’t think I will ever forget that day. There was so much hate in the message: “Your hair is so nappy, men do not like nappy hair, ect.” At a time when I wanted to share a part of my growth with her, I only received a closet of snippet nastiness. That conversation changed me for the better.

There has been a lot of conversation on the web surrounding the underrepresentation of 4c hair and the maintenance demands. As a woman with 4c hair (and killing the game by the way”>, what are your thoughts about those issues?

Toccara: Natural hair is not for everyone. We all decide to take this journey for many different reasons. The demands created to maintain healthy hair can be a bit more extreme as opposed to relaxing. I will say that when I first went natural, there were not many representations of women with 4c hair. This is why Co-founder Shannon Bennett and I started our blog, Curly Deviants, in order to document our process of returning to our natural hair texture. There we want to showcase and represent 4c women in a positive and affirming light. Almost immediately this amazing community developed via social media showcasing all textures of natural hair, from women of color, with all hair types. While the visuals for women with 4c hair were limited, there were quite a few. Jenell from Kinky Curly Coily Me was the first visual image I saw of someone with similar hair texture as mine. At this current time, I do not think there is an underrepresentation of 4c hair women who are capable of sharing the proper knowledge to help others also maintain their hair. 

How do you protect your hair from the cold in the winter and from the UV rays in the summer?

Toccara:  During the season abroad (which happens to be during the winter months”>, my hair is always in a protective style. My go-to protective style right now is mini twists. Generally I can keep them in my hair for 2-4 weeks. I do not prefer to keep them in any longer as my hair tends to lock rather quickly, causing breakage. I have some amazing friends who make me this special shea butter concoction that moisturizes and seals my hair like nobody’s business. I love wearing my hair out in the summertime, but since I live in the desert my hair catches an attitude very often. I find myself spritzing my hair with water hourly. I have also started adding raspberry seed oil to my summer regimen, as it has one of the highest SPF levels.

What is your current regimen?

Toccara: I recently got my first Curl Box, which I am sad I had to cancel because there was no way I would be able to receive all my boxes while playing basketball abroad. Within that box was a line called Clean Scalp and Hair Beauty Therapy. It was amazing! My hair loves the entire line: Ultra Shea Cleanse and Nourish Shampoo, Ultra Shea Smooth and Nourish Conditioner, Deep Nourishing Treatment Mask, and Ultra Shea Nourishing Scalp and Hair Oil. 

What does your hair love? 

Toccara: My crown loves natural ingredients. She adores shea butter & mango butter. I’m finally hip to the game on avocado oil for 4c hair sealing. Another must have is water. 

What does your hair hate?

Toccara: My crown does not like gels or mousse of any sort.

How do you style your hair when you’re training and what are your go-to styles on game day?

Toccara: While typically in a protective style already, I also wear a ponytail on game days only, which is generally once a week. Any other time, I use a dry fit hair band or scarf to help counteract sweat. 

We’ve heard from a lot of women who don’t want to exercise because it interferes with their hair routine (have to wash and style more”>. What advice do you have for them?

Toccara: Lies, fairytales, & fallacies. There is no excuse to not maintain a healthy, active lifestyle. There is always a way, from dry fit hair ties/scarves, to using the pineapple technique, and even amazing protective styles that are work appropriate. At the end of the day, your health is more important than maintaining a certain hair routine. You can still break a sweat and pull it all together in time to head back to the office. 

What are your must-have products?

Toccara: I refuse to go overseas without two of my favorite products are SheaMoisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie and Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle Conditioner, which I consider the 4c girls’ holy grail when detangling. 

Do you have any advice for women with coily hair?

Toccara: Be patient with yourself and your hair. Not only will this aid in amazing growth but you will learn a lot about yourself during the process. Also, realize what works for others, may not work for you. Unfortunately, there is time, effort, and money you may have to invest to seeing what works for you. The end result is generally better knowledge on how to protect your crown. And how you protect your hair will translate to other aspects in your life as well. 

You can follow Toccara on Instagram, Facebook, and her blog Curly Deviants.

The back-to-school rush is on, and if the thought of spending hours on your hair makes you want to throw on a hat and call it a day, don’t reach into that closet just yet. Top stylists share their tress tricks in this time-saving guide that’s sure to help you get your glam on — and put time back on your side!

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10 Time Saving Tricks

Spring has sprung and the trend of the season is hair scarves. Leopard, floral, nautical, you name it, you can rock it. The Curl Talk boards have been buzzing about this trend for a while now to help with growing out hair and now the trend is popular amongst all styles of hair. As a fellow wavy woman, I can appreciate any accessory that has so much versatility as well as protecting and moisturizing my curls. After searching the trend on Pintrest and Youtube, I came across several different ways to accessorize your hair with scarves and grabbed the easiest and the key ways to adorn your waves.

Ways to Use a Hair Scarf

If you love the pinup look, or are just looking for a cute scarf headband with a bow, look no further. This classic look is simple and you can use a bandana or a scarf in four easy steps. You will need a medium size bandana or scarf to create this look.

1. Fold the scarf in half diagonally touching corner to corner.
2. Fold the bottom half of the scarf horizontally at the width you would like on the bottom of your head.
3. Place the scarf at the nape of your neck underneath the hair and position the two ends on the crown of the head where you would like the top to sit. If you have bangs that you would like to wear with the scarf, position the ends at the base of your bangs.
4. Take both ends and tie a taught knot or bow. You will not need the scarf too tightly, but it does need to have some tension to hold your hair and the scarf in place.

If you have a longer scarf, you can double wrap the scarf to add more width or more style to the headscarf. Follow steps one and two above.

1. Place the scarf on the crown of your head with the ends going towards the bottom of the back of your head.
2. Wrap the scarf instead of tying a knot at the bottom and bring the ends towards the top and secure firmly with a knot or if your feeling lucky, a rose knot.

For a headband look, follow the original instructions and wrap the scarf at the crown of the head and tie the ends on the bottom.

Read More: Forget-Me-Not: Handmade Hair Flowers

Going to the beach and looking for some coverage for your waves? A head wrap is a great way to cover up and protect your hair, to rehydrate your curls while you deep condition or if you just need to run a quick errand. As you have always heard, satin is the best for curls, (if you have not heard the word, satin is kind to curls”> especially if you are looking for the benefits of wrapping your hair in a scarf.

1. Fold the scarf in half diagonally touching corner to corner.
2. Fold the bottom half of the scarf horizontally at the width you would like to show off on top of your head. You will want a wider base at the top of your head so that it will cover your head.
3. Position the scarf to cover your forehead or just to cover a portion, position on the crown of the head. Take the two ends of the scarf and bring them towards the back of your head. Secure with a knot and you can let the ends flow freely or tie into a bun.
4. Last and definitely not the least part of the trend is to tie an accent knot into your scarves. You can secure with a regular knot, a bun, a rose tie or my favorite a Hermes knot.

For a regular bun, put the two ends to the scarf together and twist them as if you were twisting around your curls and as you are twisting, wrap the scarf ends in a circular motion. For a seamless bun, tuck the ends into the bun or underneath the back of the scarf. For a rose tie, simply follow the steps above and once you tuck in the ends into the scarf, gently pull the ends to create a “rose effect”. For a Hermes knot, twist the two ends separately in the front and bring the ends to the back where you will tie a knot.

Read More: Forget-Me-Not: Homemade Headbands

Final Thoughts

I hope you have enjoyed learning about the many uses and styles for this trend. There were a couple of YouTube videos that helped me out, that I think would be beneficial for you to check out if you are more of a visual learner. Check out: How to Tie a Turban 3 Ways and How to Spring Scarves. Until next time, keep your spirits high and your waves beautiful!

Do you plan to change up your look with this hair scarf trend?

What do Jamie Lee Curtis, Emmy Lou Harris, Paula Deen, Dame Judi Dench and Dame Helen Mirren all have in common? They’ve made the bold decision to own their gray — and I think I may be ready to join them as well. They are a newer, fresher face of gray. The ones traveling in the same circles as George Clooney, Anderson Cooper and Ten Danson. Going gray no longer has the stigma of “old and dried up” attached to it. In fact, you’ll see many articles and websites proclaiming that gray is SEXY! I’d like to look as good as Helen Mirren walking the red carpet in her slinky gowns, too. If owning my gray is the first step, I’m calling my stylist immediately!

Taking the First Gray Step

Making the decision to go gray is a little intimidating, but I think I’m ready to do it. I’ve colored my hair since I was 16. I’m a natural brunette with dark auburn highlights. I saw my first gray hairs when I was 23 — just three little strands to start. Sometime during the past seven years, the gray took over. ­­When I color my hair these days, I have to leave the color on my hair twice as long as the box says because those grays are just so stubborn! This past time, I decided to lighten the color to a muted bronze. I left the color on my hair for double the amount of time, and those darn grays were having none of it. The strands of hair that are still amenable to color, took it; the grays said “no way,” though, and did not grab any of the hair dye. As I stood in the bathroom inspecting my strands, I decided it’s time to give in to Mother Nature. It’s actually kind of a cool look.

Going Gray Resolutions

As the end of the year creeps up, I make resolutions for what I wish to achieve over the next block of 365 days. I want to live my life more naturally, and that incorporates everything from recycling more to buying more natural products for the home and more natural products for myself. Hair dye doesn’t make the list. I know there are natural brands on the market, but living more naturally is also about living more authentically. I’m getting older. My hair is graying. It’s my attitude that keeps me younger, not my hair. I’d like to look closer to my real age anyway instead of people mistaking me for someone in their late 30s. It’s a nice thought, but the question that eventually leaves their lips once they hear about some of my past adventures is: “Just how old are you?”  Yeah, that’s a question I’d like to not hear again, because I’m never certain if they think I’m cool or just really immature.

Going Gray Gracefully

For me, owning my gray means owning my life, my years on this earth and my experiences. I earned every stripe on my head through marriage, divorce, remarriage and widowhood. Society isn’t the judgmental sphere it once was when it comes to wearing a silver head of locks, and that should make going gray more bearable than my mother has found hers to be. When I think of the time and money spent in covering my gray, I wished I’d made the decision sooner. Constantly worrying about whether or not I “need to do my roots again,” or “I hope the grays took the color,” leaves me with little time to worry about the more important things, like:  “Where are George and I going to dinner tonight?”

Is your shampoo stripping your hair? Do you hate that squeaky clean feel, but need to clean your itchy scalp and remove product build up? These healthy hair tips for diluting your shampoo will help you get that perfect clean feeling while protecting your hair.

How to Dilute:

1. Mix 1 part water and 1 part shampoo in a spray bottle or applicator bottle.
2. Divide your hair into sections and spray each section thoroughly until the bottle is completely empty or apply the diluted mixture directly to your scalp.
3. Massage each section, one at a time.

A reader emailed me last week raving about a curly chef she had seen featured in a lifestyle magazine from Boston. A curly redhead from Boston isn’t such a rare thing, but after a few quick keystrokes, I was pleasantly surprised to find beautiful curly girl and renowned chef, Kristina Kuzmic.

Googling “Kristina Kuzmic,” I found a laundry list of sites chronicling her run for her own show on Oprah’s new network, OWN. There were plenty of people out there in Kuzmic’s corner throughout the competition which ultimately came down to her and Austin-based funny man, Zach Anner. Kuzmic says her show, “Breaks all of the rules, just like my hair”.

Getting Kuzmic on the phone to chat about her curls was surprisingly easy, and talking to her was a complete breeze. She forewarned me that she wasn’t an expert on curly hair, but my theory is that if you have it, you’re an expert! We chatted about the contest, and the fan mail she gets asking about her hair. I was a little surprised that the show’s stylists didn’t want to flatten out the new TV personality’s bouncy curls. “They loved it,” Kuzmic says, “Because they didn’t have to do much.”

She goes on to mention that Deva has one of her favorite conditioners, but like almost all curlies out there, she is still on the search for a styler, “I’m hoping to find one line of styling products that I love.” We laughed about how not washing your hair every day can be liberating, a subject that Kuzmic was adamant about. “What made me love my hair is not washing every day,” she admits.

It’s so refreshing to see someone in the media who embraces her curls instead of pressing, relaxing or hiding them to appeal to the public. We give Kristina Kuzmic our full attention, and can’t wait to learn how to cook more than a Lean Cuisine.

Keep your eyes peeled for her show this fall on OWN. In the meantime, you can follow the curly chef on Kristina Kuzmic’s Facebook page.

IndulgenceIsKey via KinkCurlyCoilyMe writes…

I recently received an email asking me if split ends are able to be mended. The short answer is no. To understand why, we first need to understand what split ends are and how they are caused.

What causes split ends?

Split ends occur when the cuticle layer of your hair is damaged or removed. The cuticle layer consists of keratin or dead protein cells that make the shaft strong. These dead protein cells resemble overlapping scales which helps to hold the hair together. Once this has been damaged or removed, the inside layer of hair fibers are exposed and begin to split into two and sometimes three pieces of hair. Split ends don’t always occur at the tip of your hair shaft.

Once the hair begins to split, it cannot be permanently mended. I know there are products out there that provide temporary fixes, but the only way to get rid of split ends is the TRIM the hair at least ? an inch above where the split actually ends.

There are many other factors that can lead to split ends:

1. Improper maintenance which include constant pulling, tugging, brushing, stressing the hair with chemicals, etc.
2. Dryness or lack of moisture
3. The environment (weather, pollution, etc.”>
4. Not protecting the ends of your hair
5. Excessive heat from appliances
6. Brushing the hair when it’s wet

Preventing split ends

It’s essential to prevent split ends in order to keep your hair healthy. Try to avoid chemicals such as relaxers, dyes, etc. If your hair is chemically treated, make sure you do not over process the hair as this will lead to split ends and breakage.

Detangle your hair when wet

Avoid using a brush whenever possible, and use a wide tooth comb or your fingers to gently comb your hair.

Keep your hair moisturized

After washing your hair, follow up with a leave-in conditioner and lock in that moisture by sealing your hair with a butter or oil that is compatible with your hair. Moisturize daily if needed.

Protect your hair from the harsh winter winds and cold temperatures by covering it until your get indoors. When there isn’t any moisture in the air, the atmosphere tends to suck all of the moisture from your hair if you don’t protect it. Harsh winds will dry out your hair and ends that can eventually lead to breakage and splits. During the summer months, try using humectants to keep the moisture drawn and locked into your hair. If possible, try wearing protective styles in order to protect your ends from the scorching summer heat.

Minimize the heat from electrical appliances

Try the cool setting on the hair dryer in order to dry the hair. If you must use heat, use the warm temperature setting and try not to blow dry one section of hair for a long period of time. Use short bursts of heat and move around the perimeter of your head constantly. ALWAYS use a thermal heat protectant when using heated electrical appliances.

Deep condition your hair at least once a week

This helps to feed your hair and scalp nutrients that they need in order to stay strong and healthy.

Routine protein treatments have a positive effect on your ends. The treatment helps to keep the hair cuticle in tip top shape. Don’t forget to follow up with a deep conditioning treatment any time you perform a protein treatment.

Trim your ends at least twice a year

This is what works for me. The frequency of trims for your hair can and will differ.

Remember, these are my opinions from my own experiences. Feel free to share any information you might have about split ends.

Spring is upon us and summer is just around the corner, so it is the perfect time to get to a beach and enjoy the sunshine. If you have plans to head to the beach, make sure you prepare yourself for heat and humidity; two can-be killers if your routine is not accustomed to this weather. To combat the elements and keep your hair healthy, there are a few beach bag must haves for curly hair. Here are a few curly hair products and tips to keep your hair looking great.

AG Hair Cosmetics Re:coil

Obviously, your beach bag must haves for curly hair should include products that give you a reliable line of defense against the heat and humidity.  Since frizz is a big problem during the summer thanks to the dryness of the air, Re:coil’s whole purpose it to give you no-frizz curls that are full of moisture and have great definition. The product can leave you with crunchy curls, but if you take a few minutes to scrunch after applying, the product loosens up and leaves you with fabulous curls. This is a great product to carry with you that you can use when you’re fresh out of the water or if you need a bit to reform a few curls.

John Frieda Full Repair Touch-Up Flyaway Tamer

Another product perfect for the beach is an option that can help keep your style free of pesky flyaways. This is a new product from John Frieda and it does exactly what it says, but you might have to modify the method. This product comes in what looks like a mascara tube and the applicator is exactly like a mascara wand. When I straighten my hair this works great, but when my curls are in full force the wand can get stuck and then I end up pulling it through, which results in separated curls.

A good method of application is using a Q-tip to apply the products to your flyaways. The best thing about this product: it doesn’t leave your roots looking greasy. Also, within minutes it’s dry, making it feel like it’s not there while it still does its job. This is a definite must when packing your bag for the beach.

Goodie Simple Styles

If you are someone who can leave your hair down the entire time you are on a beach, I admire you. I end up putting my curls back within 15 minutes, but I get tired of a plain ponytail. Simple Styles are great for a loose bun, updo, half updo, or even a ponytail with a little pizzazz. You can easily carry them with you to throw up your hair while still looking your best.

Sweaty Bands

While these don’t have the most appealing name, I have read that they are the best things to keep your hair away from your face. The key to these is that they don’t slip when you sweat, hence the name, so you can be on the beach all day and these will stay in place. They aren’t the cheapest headband at $18 each, but if you find one you really like and is your style, it might change your life! Visit the Sweaty Bands website to view different styles and types. Another good thing about beach bag must haves for curly hair is they can often be used for the gym which is a nice bonus. These bands are definitely beach ready or gym ready when you need them.

Spray bottle

Sometimes you get to the point of no return and you just need water to help fix your curly problems. Purchasing a simple spray bottle and keeping it in your beach bag will enable you to refresh your hair and the products you have already applied, leading to a less frizzy and wonderfully curly you. Another benefit: it will help cool you off.

Frizz Forecast

Knowledge is power so know the humidity situation of your destination. In case you haven’t noticed, you can do this right here on NaturallyCurly! Simply type in the zip code of where you are going and you can see ahead of time what to expect. This will help you eliminate certain curly hair products and know which ones are must haves to help lighten the load for that day.

Tips for a successful transition

Transitioning from relaxed hair to your natural hair texture can be a very rewarding and interesting journey. Alternatively, it could be a frustrating and depressing mission. When transitioning, you are dealing with two very different textures on each strand of hair. You are focusing on an end date of your transition, and you are dreaming about your natural texture. The further along you are in your transition, the more of a texture difference you experience. This is not an easy journey, but it is a very attainable one. In order to be a successful transitioner, you must have the attributes that help you reach your goal.

Successful transitioners must:

• Be gentle

• Be patient

• Be open-minded

• Be flexible

• Be observant

Let’s explore the reasoning behind these transition-friendly attributes, shall we?

1. Be gentle.

Raking a comb from root to tip is going to a”> hurt like hell, b”> compound tangles and c”> break and snap your beautiful hair. During your transition you will have two very different textures on your head, with very different likes/dislikes. One thing both textures have in common is the need for a gentle touch. Gently comb hair from tip to root, and gently brush, manipulate and style your hair. This will avoid breakage and the turmoil involved with knotted tangled masses of hair.

2. Be patient.

Your hair is not going to grow out overnight. Sorry. But it will grow. And it will grow at approximately ½ inch per month. While dealing with the two textures on your head may seem like an eternity, it’s only for a finite amount of time. (One that YOU chose, mind you.”> And during this time, your only job is to relax, and to keep both textures healthy. If you find yourself in the mirror every day with a ruler to measure your new growth… I urge you to braid your hair up, or get a weave, or somehow put your hair “away” for a bit. Patience is a virtue… best learned while waiting!

3. Be open-minded.

So many of us have been getting our hair relaxed so long that we have totally disconnected with our natural hair texture. We’re conditioned to get a touch-up as soon as the “nappy” roots begin to peek out. Many women transition with visions of loose hanging curls or tightly coiled afros in their mind’s eye, while their natural texture may not be able to accommodate those styles. It is important for transitioners to be open-minded about what their actual texture will be so as not to be disappointed if their texture is not the one of their dreams.

4. Be observant.

Are you paying attention? Did you notice how your natural roots and your relaxed hair responded to your last deep-conditioning treatment? Are you losing more hair than normal when you detangle? Is your hair drier? What are the differences in the feel of your natural versus relaxed hair? Transitioners must be extra observant in order to effectively manage both textures. Being observant helps you keep your hair healthy and have a successful transition because you will…

5. Be flexible.

Paying attention to both textures is key in flexibility. Being flexible is key in retaining two healthy textures on your head. If you’re flexible, you’ll quickly change up a product that doesn’t work well for one of your textures and avoid damage. You’ll also switch up styling options that no longer work for both textures. You’ll need to have a variety of styles that allow both textures to coexist happily. This means you’ll either make the relaxed ends curly or the natural roots straight.

If you’ve got these five attributes, you’ll have an easier, more rewarding transition and reach your goal with less stress. Good luck on your journey.

Allen Ruiz

We were lucky enough to catch up with salon owner and 2007 North American Hairdresser of The Year, Allen Ruiz, in between shows during NYC Fashion Week.

Allen, who splits his time between Austin and New York City, has some exciting things on the horizon. He was just recently appointed Aveda’s new Style Director for North America, a role in which he will be responsible for producing education curriculum and creating the hair for both ad campaigns and backstage at Fashion Week. Ruiz also just received word that he’s one of five finalists for the prestigious International Artist of The Year honor from the Canadian Mirror Awards.

Despite everything going on, Allen found the time to create the hair for five major Aveda-sponsored Fashion Week shows including John Patrick Organic, Christian Siriano of Project Runway fame, Jason Wu, Sophie Théallet and Allen’s personal fave, Rodarte.

Allen shares some of the trends coming out of this season’s shows, as well as how to easily achieve two of the more “wearable” designer hair looks he created backstage at the Rodarte and Sophie Théallet shows.

Allen’s Top 3 Fall 2011 Fashion Week Trends

1. Strong Dramatic Parts: “Whether on the side, or straight down the center, parts are not subtle or soft this season, instead they’re strong, dramatic and they command attention.”

2. Contrast in Texture: “Smooth and shiny at the crown and textured everywhere else. Texture has evolved from the previous seasons—it’s a lot looser, softer texture and curl than in seasons past.”

3. Accessories: “Scarves, berets, ribbons and everything else in between are great hair adornments, temporarily altering the appearance of your head shape and even hair color.”

Fashion Week Hair Highlight

The Show: Sophie Théallet

Hair Inspiration: Faye Dunaway’s Bonnie Parker from Bonnie and Clyde. “Sweet but not so innocent, a minimalistic, simple chic look that any woman can easily recreate at home.”

Get The Look:

Step 1: “You want the hair to be super-smooth and straight. We used Aveda Smooth Infusion Glossing Straightener in damp hair and dried the hair totally straight using a Mason Pearson brush and blow-dryer with nozzle attachment on high heat.”

Step 2: “Section the hair into small, manageable sections. Working section by section, flat iron the hair, spraying each section with Aveda’s new amazing hair spray Control Force prior to applying flat iron heat.”

Step 3: “Sweep the hair back like you’re going to put it in a low ponytail and instead of securing it with an elastic, wrap a silk ribbon around the front of your neck and the hair and then tie either into a knot or a bow.

Step 4: To finish the style, lightly mist Aveda Brilliant Spray On Shine onto a Kabuki brush and apply to the tail for a shiny finish.

Fashion Week Hair Highlight

The Show: Rodarte

Hair Inspiration: Natural, organic hair to compliment the “Little House on The Prarie-esque” styles.

Get The Look:

Step 1: “Create a strong side part to the left.

Step 2: “Take vertical sections of hair going back from the forehead to the crown. Wet hair at the roots with water and apply Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam through the ends. Rough dry the hair only using your hands and a blow-dryer. Twist the sections of hair on the sides and at the back of the head as you blow-dry to enhance natural texture and wave.”

Step 3: “Take a 1-2” section of hair right above your ear and braid using the fishtail technique. Take another section of hair at the nape of your neck opposite side of where you took your first section. Pull this section of hair around the style to secure and connect to your braid and pin.

Hollywood Stars Check out Latest Fashion Trends

Hollywood fashionistas came out to Milk Studios in Chelsea last Sunday to check out the latest fashion trends by Tara Subkoff for Imitation during New York Fashion Week. Hollywood stars such as Liev Schreiber and his 3-year-old son Alexander, Rose McGowan, Sophia Bush, Chloë Sevigny, Gina Gershon, and Natasha Lyonne were all sitting front and center at the start of Sunday’s show.

Ouidad says Curls are Back in a Big Way

Following an amazing backstage effort at the Rebecca Minkoff show earlier in the week, Ouidad and her hair team worked their curl magic a second time, turning out a seductive, femme fatale look inspired by the ’40s and ’50s hair styles worn by classic Hollywood icons such as Jane Russell, Marlene Dietrich, and Veronica Lake.

Says lead hairdresser Ouidad, “Curls are coming back to Hollywood in a big way. We will definitely see a lot of the old Hollywood glamour and hair styles on the red carpet this coming awards season. The good news is these glamorous looks are very easy for women to recreate at home.”

The Ouidad backstage team created the hair looks on 25 models using Ouidad products like Climate Control Heat and Humidity Gel, Tress Effects Styling Gel and Playcurl Volumizing Mousse. The hair was curled with medium and large barrel curling irons or set in pin curls to create a perfect S pattern shape that was than finished by running a wide-toothed comb and/or hands through the set curls to relax the hair into loose, sexy, whimsical wave.

On Saturday night at MILK Studios, Billy Reid showcased his much anticipated Fall 2011 collection, this time featuring both men’s and women’s looks. After winning the Best New Designer in America Award from GQ and the Council of Fashion Designers of America award and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2010, Billy Reid worked closely with Marcos Diaz of ION Studio for Davines to make sure the hair was just right for the presentation.

The collection from Billy Reid expressed the relationship between the Billy Reid man and the Billy Reid woman—a relationship that complements each other. The Billy Reid women’s look was natural; she was soft, but there was a touch of masculine femininity about her.

Styling for Women

To create the look for women, Diaz used Davines Defining Texturizer to add texture and volume to the hair. After a quick blow dry, he spritzed Davines’ newest product, the For Wizards No. 14 Sea Sale Primer on the hair. The Sea Salt Primer allows you to grab hair easily and makes pinning it up simple. He then used a 1.5” curling iron to create pin curls. After letting the curl set for 20 minutes, Diaz unrolled the curls and lightly brushed them out—think Brooke Shields in The Blue Lagoon. With a touch of Davines’ Defining Texturizer, to maintain the wave/curl, the general look was complete. Wizard’s No. 13 Mat Forming Ground to help tame frizz and flyaways.

At Home Tip: For easy, on the go waves in the morning, use Davines For Wizards No. 14 Sea Salt Primer before bed and put your hair into a loose bun. In the morning, just take out the bun and voila!

Styling for Men

To create the look of the Billy Reid man, Diaz used the Davines Defining Texturizer and Defining Wonder Wax to create a windswept appearance.

Dear Shari: Why is my hair greasy??? I take showers every day and I get grease if I go under the front part of my hair (if that makes any sense”>. I don’t know why—I use sulfate-free shampoo and Suave Naturals coconut conditioner.

A: Without knowing the history of your hair and your diet, it is difficult to offer a solid answer. However, there may be synthetic ingredients in the products you are using that are weighing down your hair and causing a reaction. Is your facial skin oily as well? With limited information, I would like to suggest that you only use the conditioner on your ends and not on your scalp. Also, when you are cleansing the scalp area, make sure you scrub well and rinse well. Lastly, if you are using any stylers on your hair when it is dry, this, too, may be causing the greasy effect.

Dear Shari: I have 3b (50:50 chemically treated, natural-in-the-process-of-growing-out”> curls, and I’ve been using Deva No Poo for almost close to a year now. I have found myself on an extended vacation in Grenada (Caribbean”>, and it’s probably the weather and frequent ocean swims that have lead me to wash my hair more often than usual (from twice a week to three times a week”>. And I’ve run out!!! Any suggestions? I have at least another 3 weeks with no access to any line of sulfate free shampoo….what do I do? My scalp is drying me crazy. Also what’s the deal with sea water…good or bad?

A: Sea water contains salt—BAD for the hair. It is dehydrating. I suggest that you use conditioner as both the cleanser and the conditioner and leave some in when rinsing for extra moisture. Make sure the conditioner does not contain silicone as it will clog the hair and prevent moisture from penetrating.

Dear Shari: I’ve been shampoo free for about 2 weeks now, and my hair is already feeling great, but I’m having a situation with my root hair. It’s super oily/over-conditioned, I don’t know, it’s impossibly soft. Perhaps it’s only the change, going from a sulfate shampoo to co-washing… So I thought I’d better use a low sulfate shampoo every two weeks or so. I don’t know what to do.

A: There is nothing wrong with only using DevaCurl Low-Poo which has less moisture than DevaCurl No-Poo. In addition, do not use the conditioner on your scalp at this time. It seems not to need it.

Dear Shari: I did a shampoo free method from April-August because I found out I was pregnant and the texture of my hair changed and wasn’t getting the results I wanted so I just stuck with a low-sulfate shampoo and conditioner. Now I decided to go back to the shampoo free method since it worked so well for me the first time, but when my hair dries its TOO soft and therefore creates frizz. Does this mean I’m over conditioning? I’m using the same amount and same kind as before but didn’t have this problem. Could it be that because I’m still pregnant my hormones changed and now my hair is more sensitive to conditioner?

A: It could be a number of things and yes, hormones have much to do with the current state of your hair and scalp. Try using DevaCurl No-Poo on the scalp and DevaCurl One Condition on the ends with a little bit of DevaCurl MirrorCurls added to the ends. However, it seems highly doubtful that if your hair is over-conditioned, that is what is causing frizz. Perhaps you need a gel to define your curls? Perhaps you are touching it too much when it is wet and when it is dry which causes frizz?

Dear Shari: Three months after my pregnancy, I began to notice heavy hair loss. I have thick hair, so I’m no stranger to the daily 100 in the shower. However, this hair loss was different. One day I looked at myself in the mirror while I was pulling my hair back and noticed I had developed a widow’s peak! My hair is also tangling something fierce with all the hair I’m losing.

My hair is past my shoulders and while I don’t really want to, I’m considering getting it cut short again to avoid dealing with all the tangling and to get some hair in my face to cover the peaks.

From reading the forums, I realize this hair loss is normal, but I’m curious as to how others have handled it? While I am not a doctor, I do know that hair loss after pregnancy is normal. It usually takes 6-12 months for hair to return to a somewhat balanced state.

A: Why not trim it for now and see what happens? You can always cut more in time. It also sounds as if the texture may have changed causing the tangling. be gentle with it during this time and use a little extra moisture on the ends and the nape.

Hair Rules offers these curly hair rules:

1. Rule #1: Wash and wear styles can be done twice a day but cannot wear for more than two or three days. For twist-out styles, cleanse, condition, rehydrate and re-twist every 5-7 days.
2. Rule #2: Get a proper haircut every 3 months, with the ends being adequately cut when straight. You can’t cut what you can’t see on a head of hair that is tightly wound (with shrinkage and a ziz-zag pattern”>. The timing of these haircuts is essential. Hair grows ¼” to ½” a month. If over a period of three months, you’ve gained an inch and a half, the idea is that you’re only cutting less than ¼”. This means you’ve still gained length!
3. Rule #3: Condition, condition, condition! You can’t over-condition naturally dry hair.

The biggest misconception about kinky hair is that it is rough and tough. On the contrary, it is the most fragile texture on the texture spectrum and should be cared for like your favorite cashmere sweater, not a tee shirt. Kinky hair—especially when worn straight—needs extreme hydration at every step of your hair care routine (cleansing, conditioning, styling and finishing”> to look its best. Kinky hair naturally tangles and locks. If your goal is to grow your hair (and not to lock it”>, than preventing it from tangling is crucial. The more you rinse, condition and detangle, the more you prevent hair from drawing up, drying out, and breaking. Remember, healthy hair allows you the freedom to wear your hair however you choose, be it kinky, curly or straight.

What To Avoid:

Shampoos that dry out or strip the hair of its natural oils. Products that contain grease and wax that build up, dulling hair, and don’t feel great to touch.

Products where the primary ingredient is silicone because although it can be beneficial for shine and slick-ability, too much can build up on the hair preventing any moisture from entering the hair shaft, ultimately drying out the hair.

Some people with curly hair go to such extremes to control their frizzy hair that they completely avoid using shampoos and never clean their hair via traditional methods. This shampoo free method claims that the natural oils from hair should not be removed, and instead preaches rinsing out hair with only conditioner. In a world without dust, cars, cigarette smoke or the hundreds of other pollutants we encounter daily, this concept could be effective. The natural oils from the scalp certainly do help tame wild, frizzy hair, but curly hair is especially vulnerable to toxins, as the hair shaft tends to be much more porous. This means that not only do curls lose moisture quickly, they also absorb pollution much more than straight hair does.

The truth is, all shampoos do not need to be harsh cleansers. Using the right ingredients to clean your hair can leave it feeling much softer and healthier than not using any shampoo at all. Curly Hair Solutions shampoos are specially formulated to provide additional strength and moisture. We do this by using the best ingredients and maintaining a low pH level of 4.5-5.5. These formulas allow you to cleanse your curls without stripping away the natural oils that protect your hair and scalp. They also help to repair damage and improve the elasticity of your hair, which can be lost during chemical treatments like coloring, perming or relaxing. Both Treatment Shampoo and Silk Shampoo are gentle enough to be used every day if required, though most curly heads don’t need to wash their hair daily.

It is important to note that all shampoos must be thoroughly rinsed from your hair and scalp.

Which shampoo is right for me?

Treating curly hair means walking a tightrope between moisture and strength. Some curly hair needs more moisture than strength and vice versa. That’s why Curly Hair Solutions created two unique shampoos—curly hair needs both strength and moisture. Silk Shampoo restores moisture to curly hair, while Treatment Shampoo provides extra strength.

At different times, and under different conditions, your hair has different needs. During cold winters, indoor heating drives moisture out of your hair, making some curly hair uncontrollable. In summer, hot muggy conditions require advanced frizz control.

The success of chemical services on curly hair depends on the strength of the products used. Research has proved that Treatment Shampoo will dramatically improve the condition of the hair and will prolong the lifespan of colors and perms.

Curly Hair Solutions created Silk Shampoo and Treatment Shampoo with the help of input from their customers. These products contain generous doses of essential ingredients that we’ve been researching over the past ten years. All types of curly hair will benefit from these shampoos, and they can be used safely on a daily basis.

When picking an outfit and hairstyle for Valentine’s Day, you want to look romantic while also feeling sexy. No matter what you end up wearing, your hair can create the sexy factor you are looking for. Glamour recently did a poll to find out which hairstyles and hair attributes men find sexy, and we think you will be excited to find out which ones made the top of the list.

Soft Waves

Naturally wavy girls—you are in luck! Waves are a great look that can instantly spice up any outfit they are paired with. Charles Hutton of New York City told Glamour “Wavy hair that’s soft and moves is sexy-perfect for running your fingers through.” Now we all know that running your fingers through waves is not the best idea, but knowing that men enjoy the idea is all that matters!

Texture

This is the easiest style ever for the natural bunch! Texture is appearing more frequently and as we all accept our natural hair, the men in our lives start to as well. Jesse Kasendorf of Madison, Wisconsin told Glamour “…curls are mysterious and unique. They imply spunk.” Girls with straight hair often say they wish they had some texture to their natural locks, so instead of conforming to what we have been told is beautiful for so long, take Jesse’s words to heart and let your curls run wild on Valentine’s Day.

Shine

Curls and waves can be hard to keep shiny because our natural hair wants to be drier instead of moisturized. If you are rocking your shine then continue on to the next style. If you are having issues with shine, pay attention! It is now official, at least in Glamour, that men are attracted to shine, so why not do what we can to improve our shininess. If you are battling issues with dry and dull hair, take a look at this article that suggests 5 things that can help you fight your dull, dry hair.

Bed-Head

In my opinion, this is the simplest yet most difficult style to achieve on this list. I, like so many curlies, are used to wanting our curls to look put together, and this style requires the exact opposite. You have to be OK with a little frizz and some fly-aways if you want to achieve this look, but according to men it is exactly what they find sexy. It makes your hair look effortless which screams low maintenance, another thing men happen to find attractive. Be bold with your second day hair and stay away from the idea of taming if you want to pull off this look.

Major Body

Glamour says it best, “Volume is like a push-up bra for hair—it maximizes the good stuff.“ If you have a lot of hair and it’s thick, this style is much easier for you than for someone with very fine hair. If you are struggling with volume, try diffusing your hair upside down. This will pull the curl away from your scalp and give you lift all along the crown of your head.

Curly Bob

Short is hot right now and Luca Sumberac of New Brunswick, N.J. says, “It’s the mark of a hip, confident girl.” Not every woman is comfortable with a short hairstyle so if you have the perfect face for a bob and the confidence to match, go for it! Going short is also a great way to get rid of any damaged ends you might have while still staying trendy. You can no longer use the excuse that men don’t dig short hair because it made the list.

Like many of you out there, I was burned by the (dare I say it”> keratin treatment companies. We were all led astray with barely factual information and sub par results. CHI Enviro American Smoothing Treatment is a far, far cry from what we are used to. This treatment is completely natural and environmentally safe, being made of pearl, silk, and amino acids (amino acids are critical in many processes in your body, including being a key factor in building proteins”>.

CHI gave me the opportunity to have the treatment done and see for myself that CHI is the good guy in the market of smoothing treatments, and I will say that I am more than a little shocked and definitely a firm believer in this product. The process is fairly similar to other smoothing treatments, with a few major differences. For starters, when Rafael (CHI educator and stylist at Kent of Europe Salon in Austin, Texas”> took his flat iron to my hair, there were no gassy fumes choking me or making my eyes water. I actually didn’t even notice anything, until halfway through the process I noticed there was a little steam, which was the product leaving my hair. Rafael made me smell the product before he applied it, and I was surprised to smell vanilla, not harsh chemicals.

I was skeptical that a treatment with these ingredients could actually work in smoothing the frizz and loosening the curl, but CHI Enviro’s protein and amino acid complex allows temporary change in the structure of hair fibers, leaving hair easier to comb and hair that is silkier, smoother and shinier. The protein and amino acid complex is what allows the system to straighten the hair.

At this point, I felt relieved that I was actually getting what was promised to me, but starting to get nervous that it wouldn’t work well, and I would leave feeling underwhelmed. It is recommended to wait at least 24 hours before washing your hair after leaving the salon, and I was nervous about the “after” effects. After washing the treatment out, my hair had never looked shinier and healthier. I was stunned and excited, knowing that stylists and salon patrons around the globe could be safe when getting smoother hair. I told Rafael about the salons that were making stylists and clients wear gas masks, and we both agreed that this natural and safe treatment was a no-brainer.

I will keep you all updated on my journey with this product and let you know how it maintains. So far, so good. I am loving my soft, beach-y waves!

Find a CHI salon near you.