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We’ve heard plenty of chatter about Olaplex lately in the world of salons and healthy of hair.
Why is everyone talking about Olaplex?
This single ingredient is added both hair prior to and after a hair color treatment or other chemical service done at a salon. It’s used to “preserve the integrity of the hair and essentially multiply the bonds within the hair shaft,” according to Sands.
Olaplex reconnects broken disulfide sulfur bonds in the hair that were broken down during services that required the use of heat styling tools and chemicals. It comes in the following steps:Olaplex No. 1 Bond Multiplier: for lightening
Olaplex No. 2 Bond Perfector: for restoring strength into the hair (it is not a neutralizer nor activator”>
Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector: for maintaining healthier, stronger hair in between sessions (it is not a conditioning treatment and should not be left on the hair”>
Applying Olaplex onto curly hair
On naturally textured wavy, curly, and coily hair, “Olaplex should be applied to towel dried hair,” says Robin Sjoblom, named 2016 Curly Hair Artist of the Year by Curly Hair Artistry.
“This is because we will do a detox treatment on the hair to remove silicones and buildup before applying Olaplex.” She follows up by applying a watered down mix of Olaplex #1 over a bowl to collect the run through, ensuring “total saturation.”Sjoblom mentions a gentler application makes all the difference for clients with curly hair. “We do not comb the Olaplex they the hair, we use our fingers to section and work into the curls. Using a comb on curly hair in this state would break the hair. Finger smoothing the Olaplex ensures saturation without disturbing the integrity of the curl.”
How naturally curly hair benefits from Olaplex
Naturally textured hair is at a greater risk for becoming damaged, and using permanent hair color can make it much worse–and irreversible. Olaplex will provide them a buffer to experiment with the versatility of hairstyles, including ones that require color and heat styling tools.
Box explains that most hair conditioners and at-home treatments are made to only temporarily mask a damaged cuticle, but not fix it forever. “Olaplex is great for hair that is already damaged,” he says, “because it allows you to do chemical services that would normally not be possible without it. In addition, it helps prevent damage from happening in the first place.”
Another great thing about this protection treatment is that it’s sulfate-free, silicone-free, phthalate-free, DEA-free, aldehyde-free, and is not tested on animals.
How to prolong your Olaplex treatment (after leaving the salon”>
Sjoblom says to avoid the following:
- heat styling
- using products containing harsh chemicals (sulfates and silicones”>
,0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15″>; margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% – 2px”>;” data-instgrm-version=”6″>To maximize your treatment at home, she suggests purchasing a “take home #3 treatment for in-between freshening…it’s amazing!” Ask your curly hair stylist for more details about how to purchase this kit.
How to request Olaplex at your salon
Even if it’s on the list of services offered on your salon’s website, it is recommended by the pros to consult with your specific stylist beforehand. And he or she may offer it first, too.
“It is usually by our recommendation that an Olaplex treatment is given,” Sjoblom says. During the online prep between client and stylist to decide if it is a good fit, she will wait till her first in-person meeting with them before an in depth consultation of the benefits of Olaplex, depending on what look they are going for. “We then decide if the client is in need of an Olaplex treatment before her appointment or during her service, or not at all.”
Locate a salon that provides Olaplex services here: http://locator.olaplex.com/
Have you tried Olaplex? How did it affect the health of your hair?
I’m Ken Burkeen, Founder & CEO of Huetiful and the Huetiful Salons located in Atlanta, Chicago, and now in Dallas-Ft. Worth. I’ve been in the personal care and beauty Care industry since 2001. I started in the haircare industry in 2010.
I asked myself “Why?” Then the Huetiful Hair Steamer was born.
Inspiration and new businesses typically come from the question, “why?” For me the question was, “if conditioners and treatments worked so well, then why do so many people have 7, 13 or 19 different kinds of half used bottles under their sink?”
I was determined to not just create another conditioner that ends up under a sink for the textured hair care market, but rather solve the frustration that leads to having 19 conditioners under the sink.
My hypothesis was that hair, which is 8 to 12% water, was dry because it lacked water, not conditioners and oil. I reasoned, like our bodies, our textured hair needs to be hydrated in order to prevent breakage, split ends, dryness, and frizz. The question of “why” inspired me to create the Huetiful Hair Steamer.
The Huetiful Salon experience can be described as consistent, exceptional textured hair care service with an uncompromising focus on hair health, timeliness, and styling expertise for waves, curls, and coils.
Truth be told, I had no intention of owning a salon, let alone leading three salons and 26 stylists. However, as a business owner I let the market forces push me towards opportunity. I allowed client insights inform me on how to take advantage of those opportunities. The textured hair care market was definitely telling me that there was space for a natural, textured hair salon company that was focused on providing consistent and exceptional hair care experiences. I simply stepped into that void when I realized the opportunity.
I approach business from a very analytical and process-oriented perspective.
At times, it can be at odds with the fluidity of the art of cosmetology. As a former CEO who I once worked for stated, “gut is for gamblers.” I try to rely on data, intel (research”>, and client or customer feedback more times than a premonition of fleeting thought. Then, I layer my experience and intuition on top of data and structure to get desired results. My previous positions in the US Army, Procter & Gamble, Novartis, and UPS all approached business in very much the same way.
The only way to have a successful product is to create a strong, honest brand that resolves customer hair care frustrations. It’s that simple.
When I added the service-based side of Huetiful to the manufacturing/e-commerce side of the Huetiful business one thing was clear: Huetiful is now in the business of People. You can’t outsource hair styling. You can’t send it overseas or have it stashed in a warehouse. If you’re going to be in the People business, you better genuinely care for and about your employees and make that a centerpiece of how you do business.
The only way to have a successful product is to create a strong, honest brand.
The product marketplace has become commoditized with the acceptance of textured hair care products in grocery and drugstores, mass merchandisers (like Target and Walmart”>, and the explosion of e-commerce sales. Unlike ten years ago, people in every community across the country literally have access to 500 brands that will deliver to their doorstep. When this happens, the only way to have a successful product is to create a strong, honest brand that provides products that resolve customer hair care frustrations. It’s that simple.
I draw inspiration from industries outside of hair care.
For service, I’m inspired by Ritz Carlton and Chick Fil-A (“My pleasure!” and “How may I serve you?”“>. From a beauty and aesthetics standpoint, I’m inspired by many cosmetic and prestige brands.
For me, strategies are less about what I’m going to do and more about what I’m not going to do.
There are days in which the growth and complexity of the business seems overwhelming. I try to focus on 5 key strategies laid out at the beginning of the year. Clear strategies provide guideposts that keep you from getting overwhelmed.
When you think of a beauty pageant, what requirements comes to mind? While a tall, slim figure and a sleek head of hair come to mind for most, Maureen A. Ochola and Jessica E. Boyd want to change that way of thinking forever. And their mission has started in South Carolina with the third annual Miss Naturally Crowned Carolina pageant. As the two small business owners gear up for their January 31st ceremony, they share a few important points on what makes this pageant so special compared to others.
We’re highlighting natural hair…and add on the business element because that’s what you need to be successful in business. Confidence.
Requirement: be a beauty with a business plan
In true pageant form, this one focuses mainly on beauty, poise, and intellect. But there are some major twists in this competition for the women between the ages of 19 and 30. Contestants all women of color with natural hair and an entrepreneurial attitude. They are required to prepare and present a well-composed business plan to a panel of judges through a rigorous Q&A interview.
Contestants’ individual business proposals are prepared with the help of seminars, coaches, and other guidance from other business professionals. To date, half of the competitors involved in Miss Naturally Crowned Carolina have successfully formed their own businesses beyond just a concept. Being a business owner herself, that fact makes Boyd proud. “When [contestants] saw that we were able to have the idea for the beauty supply store and also have the idea for the pageant…a lot of them were inspired to go ahead and start their own businesses.”
Powering popularity through social media
Boyd and Ochola thank their social media accounts for taking a huge part in exposure of their annual event and allowing them to continue since 2013. Boyd believes it contributed to the leveraging of many of the past contestants’ successes beyond of the pageant, as well. “The impact it had on the girls and the community, in general, took a life of its own,” she mentions.
Leveraging natural hair to the rest of the world
Miss Naturally Crowned Carolina is a pageant truly unlike any other right now in the United States. “Ultimately, we want it to be the Miss Universe of natural hair,” says Boyd of her third annual sold-out celebration. The two business partners hope to expand on their accomplishments in the near future. And they make it clear that efforts aren’t just for monetary purposes, but with a special spotlight on go-getter Black women embracing their god-given beauty and feeling comfortable in the skin they’re in.
Keep up with all of Ochola & Boyd’s business and community endeavors. Follow them on Instagram @NaturallyCrownedCarolina. And if you are in the area and want to become a contestant, fill out an application on the Naturally Crowned Carolina website.
Photos courtesy of Maurice George, Columbia, South Carolina photographer
Mark your calendars on February 2, 2016 for a digital reality series unlike any you’ve seen before.
My Life Offline is about women who are transcending their digital profiles towards a bigger platform with the universal appeal of taking their online persona and brand to the next level. We recently caught up with one of the stars of the series, Chime Edwards (@haircrush“>. She, along with Nina Ellis-Hervey, (@beautifulbrwnbabydol“>, and Vaughn Monroe (AKA MsVaughnTV“> will all co-star in next month’s series.
1. Why did you choose to be a part of this series?
I really loved the concept of the show. The Executive Producer, Maureen Aladin, explained that the show would focus on Black hair vloggers who are building their brands and it would give the subscribers we love so much a glimpse into our lives outside of Youtube. I felt like it was a great opportunity to show Black women in a different light on reality television. It is the type of show that I would tune in to, so it was amazing to have an opportunity to be a part of the cast.
2. Were you hoping to change any specific perceptions of vloggers?
I honestly didn’t think about that much. My hope was that it would change the perception of Black women in general. Many people from other countries watch reality shows like Love and Hip Hop and The Real Housewives of Atlanta but have never actually met a Black woman. So, their perception of Black women is skewed because of the limited programming they have access to. I want everyone to see that we are beyond the stereotypes out there and more relatable than some might think.
I think the next step has already begun for many vloggers–breaking out beyond the digital world.
3. What did you learn from the process of creating this series?
It is important to be authentically who you are in every situation (even if a camera is all up in your grill”>. On the business side, I got to learn about the process of filming and pitching a reality show. It definitely takes a lot of hard work and diligence.
4. What do you see as the next step for natural hair vloggers who have found popularity online?
I think the next step has already begun for many vloggers, which is starring in TV shows and commercials–breaking out beyond the digital world. There are some Youtube vloggers that have been in major commercials and campaigns so I believe the possibilities are endless.
I want everyone to see that Black women are beyond the stereotypes out there–and more relatable than some might think.
5. Do you plan to continue a career in natural hair vlogging or are you looking to expand into other areas?
I consider myself as an artist and a creator. I love to express myself in a variety of ways and I don’t like to be put into a box. I’m interested in anything that allows me to express my creativity whether it’s acting, modeling, art or music. I am ready for whatever the universe bring my way.
Watch the trailer for My Life Offline:
Curly hair has had its fair share of publicity as of late. Once the marketing masterminds behind product formulations realized how profitable the textured hair consumer could be, they opened their ears to the needs of the community.
Whether manufacturers are getting into the curly hair industry for monetary reasons or to make a positive impact on our needs is a topic of popular debate in our community; however, there are some hidden gems out there. There are entrepreneurs who simply do not have the resources to reach a larger audience with a product that they know will solve a major issue for those with curly hair. Alanna York might have been one of those gems–that is, until she premiered on the latest episode of ABC’s Shark Tank.
Facing the sharks
The American version of Japan’s Dragon’s Den is in its seventh season, and this is the first time viewers got to watch a curly hair salon owner and product formulator defend her business plan in front of the sharks. York, who owns Head Games in Portland, created a line of curly hair products and named them Controlled Chaos. “My hair was my nemesis my whole life,” she says of her motivation for pursuing the expansion of her line.
According to Portland Press Herald, she couldn’t even recall her Shark Tank experience due to nervousness and feeling like she was in a dream. “It was like I wasn’t even there. I think I blacked out for the whole thing.” And she wasn’t the only one who was in curly la la land. Alanna’s co-presenter, Maureen Emerson, was another curly girl who specializes in a curly hair cutting technique that allows for more versatility in styling, i.e. straightening.
Creating the product of her dreams
Alanna has been working tirelessly to bring her dream to fruition for years, but faced various road bumps, like the Great Recession in 2007. This was York’s third attempt to be on Shark Tank after attending several open casting calls beforehand–and getting turned down. This time around, York says she changed her pitch to focus solely on the Curl Creme product rather than the entire line, which ultimately inspired producers to finally listen and take her case seriously. York’s business partner, Erica Gray, has naturally wavy hair and has been equally passionate about getting a useful hair product out there to a wider range of consumers facing styling issues similar to theirs. The trained cosmetologist and investor first suggested teaming up with York in 2012.
Controlling chaos for the masses
According to the label, the Curl Creme “enhances, conditions and defines all types of curly hair, eliminating frizz and locking out humidity.” Alanna already sold this product under another one of her businesses, Use Me!, promising to help others with naturally curly and frizzy hair to block out humidity. It’s already carried by more than 50 salons throughout the U.S., but that hasn’t been enough to take the business to the next level.
A big win for the Portland salon owner
While many of the pitches on the show are unsuccessful at persuading the Shark Tank team to make an investment, York was able to appeal to them. After testing the product out, going over their business plans, and further in-depth offline conversation, an agreement was made to buy 51 percent of Controlled Chaos for $60,000.
Perhaps there is hope for the small business salon owners, well-intentioned investors, and the small-scale producers with a true passion for getting their product on the shelves of major retailers. Now the rewards of Alanna York’s efforts will hopefully produce something mutually beneficial for curly hair salons and clients everywhere.
Did you catch the curly entrepreneur on Shark Tank?
Last week I spoke with the president of Uncle Funky’s Daughter, Renee Morris regarding her first year as owner of the brand. As you may or may not have known, there’s been much confusion and speculation regarding the company’s wave of changes in the past few years. Since we’ve been longtime fans of the brand, we were eager to give Morris a chance to clear up any rumors surrounding the brand she acquired a little over a year ago. This is 100 percent in her own words.
To build or buy. That was the question to myself.
I discovered Uncle Funky’s Daughter when I moved to Houston in 2009, shortly after the brand launched. After being natural for 9 years at that time, it was the only natural hair product that worked for my hair! I was a true “Funky Junky” who couldn’t live without my Extra Butter.
After a successful career consulting to large companies, I took an assessment of my life to determine where I was headed. As a mother of a 3 year-old son and 1-year old twin girls — and a wife to a wonderful husband — I knew my career needed to change to be the wife and mother I wanted to be. I went through the journey of self-discovery that so many people go through. Having had several years experience working with large and small companies, I realized I didn’t want to work for someone else. I had my mother’s entrepreneurial gene and wanted to run my own company.
I acquired the brand at the end of July 2014, and I was in the midst of a personal “storm”.
So I asked myself, Do you build, or do you buy a company? You often find that companies are interested in selling when they are facing challenges. If there’s anything I know how to do, it’s fix a company. Buying a company made sense. Then the question became what company? One day, I was getting my hair done and God said to me, you should buy Uncle Funky’s Daughter. A ton of doubts crept into my head. They won’t sell, finding and reaching the owners would be a challenge, the price would be too expensive. So many reasons came to mind. Still, that same week I went into the retail store to buy Extra Butter to redo my twists, and I started chatting up the guy who worked there. It turned out that he was one of the owners!
He shared that he and his wife were going through a divorce. After leaving the store, I gave their situation some thought. I reached out to him and asked if they would be interested in selling. The entire process—from that conversation, to the time I acquired the brand—took almost a full year. It’s been fun!
My first 90 days.
I acquired the brand at the end of July 2014, and I was in the midst of a personal “storm”. My aunt had lost her battle with lung cancer, and I found myself helping my cousins coordinate her funeral while preparing for the christening of my twins and the celebration of my son’s birthday. All while preparing to close on Uncle Funky’s Daughter.
Prior to the acquisition, Uncle Funky’s Daughter was going through a bit of a ‘management transition’. The previous owners were going their separate ways and thinking of dissolving the company completely. As a result, the brand had been relatively quiet in the market, with no appearance at hair shows or on social media outside of Facebook. My first task as the new owner was to let Funky Junkies know that we were here and here to stay.
Next, we needed to get more people to try the product. You see, Uncle Funky’s Daughter was a hidden secret for many, and we needed to let more people know about our fabulous products.
The biggest challenge of the acquisition was the first 90 days—the confusion around the brand, the owner, the other names, formulas, all of that. It was a mess…and not what I expected to be dealing with. We were supposed to be focused on providing superior customer service and spreading the word of Uncle Funky’s Daughter. Instead, I was faced with questions regarding which formulas we were using and addressing false statements regarding how I acquired the company.
We returned to the original Curly Magic formula…
When I bought the company, I was committed to bringing back the original Curly Magic formula. The previous management team decided to change the formula in early 2014 and the change was not well received by Funky Junkies. Step 1 was to revert back to the original Curly Magic Curl Stimulator, which we began shipping within 60 days of my acquisition of Uncle Funky’s Daughter. We do not ship the reformulated product…only the original formula.
In addition, I reintroduced products that had been discontinued previously—Glossy, Defunk, and Shining Star. Over the past year, we built the portfolio back up to 12 products, and we plan to expand the portfolio in 2016. We are available in about 100 boutique retailers in North America, Europe and Africa and hope to double that presence in 2016.
…And we are making more changes for the better.
Earlier this year, we shifted our look to be more symbolic of the values that we stood for. We chose the Mandala flower to be a central component of our brand because it represents inner peace and balance with self and nature. It represents what we all strive for. We also changed the packaging to be more environmentally friendly. Our products are not tested on animals and do not contain animal by-products. Because we are a sustainable company, we needed packaging that was recyclable and created less waste.
We plan to re-launch the salon in 2016. We want to find a new location that is funky and accessible for our clients.
Parking was horrible at our old location, and our salon will be completely focused on the customer experience—from the time you make your appointment, to how you arrive at the salon and how you feel when you leave the salon.
You will also see us continuing to focus on education—a foundational element of our brand. The natural hair journey can be confusing for some, and we want to make sure clients know how to use products, the benefits of natural ingredients, and tips for maintaining healthy hair.
Stay tuned!
We have a lot of growth on the horizon and we want to offer the community what they want. I can’t say much more about our upcoming venture in early 2016, but Uncle Funky’s Daughter will be available to even more Funky Junkies than ever!
My name is N’Kenge. I grew up in NY, in both The Bronx and Brooklyn. I am a pop-soul and opera chic singer and originated the role of Mary Wells in Motown: The Musical on Broadway.
I have naturally curly hair and my style varies depending on my mood (and sometimes project I am working on”>. One day I am very glam, and the next day I can be funky. I can be showcasing a sporty look but will still throw a flower in my hair and some sparkly earrings. I love making a statement with my look.Berry Gordy has been a wonderful mentor to me. He not only was a fantastic songwriter, but he built an empire called Motown; I admire and respect him so much.
Pursuing performing as a profession
My teachers and mentors saw that I had a talent for singing and I loved performing. After winning competitions in high school and going through undergrad and graduate studies at both Manhattan School of Music and The Juilliard School, I went to work immediately. I was ecstatic by the idea that I could really make my passion my profession.
My musical influences
Berry Gordy has been a wonderful mentor to me. He not only was a fantastic songwriter, but he built an empire called Motown; I admire and respect him so much. My vocal teacher, Martina Arroyo, has made her legacy as not only an amazing opera singer, but has a wonderful foundation and is constantly encouraging. Whitney Houston has the golden voice–I have idolized her since I was a little girl. Her sheer brilliance in stage presence and sound inspired me everyday to pursue my dream of being a singer.
Incorporating opera into my work
Opera is my foundation, so I am always trying to incorporate it in my music and projects. There is a musical revue I created called LEGENDS! that celebrates the music and lives of leading ladies from Nina Simone to Leontyne Price.
I also wrote a song that will be on my forthcoming album with angelslikerebels.com
Who I do this for
Definitely my daughter, Jahzara Martina. I wake up to that smile of hers that can heal a nation if given the opportunity…ha ha. I want to leave behind a legacy that she is proud of. In the near future, I hope to be wiser and enjoy a musical journey that takes me to more countries performing my music and crossing over to TV and film. I see myself producing and creating more of my own projects and being able to have outlets that will take these projects to the masses.
Keep up with me
My website is www.nkengemusic.com and I am very active on social media. N’Kenge’s Music on Facebook, @Divankenge on Instagram and @DivaKenge on Twitter. Anyone who wants to support my forthcoming album can contribute directly at http://www.
Comora’s Stories is a series of children’s literature targeted toward young children of color. Many of the stories are inspired by Comora, a young girl living in Harlem, New York with her mom and dad. I recently spoke with the series creators, Cyrus Johnson and LaToya Johnson (Comora’s parents”>. Visit their site to purchase one their books on comorasstories.com, or follow @comorasstories.
Filling a void in the market
When Comora was born, we wanted her to love books as much as we do. Almost immediately, we noticed there wasn’t much on the shelves marketed toward children of color–especially girls of color.
Not to say there weren’t good books available, but they didn’t feature characters that looked like my daughter.We decided to write our first book with the help of a family friend and amazing illustrator, George Reeder III, just for our own purposes. Once we saw the finished product and got rave reviews from everyone, we decided to share it with the world.
The Comora’s Stories series is personal on many levels for us. We want to share it with as many people as possible so that the onus of eliminating gender and ethnic bias in children’s literature isn’t just on us. There are many authors, parents and teachers doing this already, but we wanted to make our own contribution. If more parents start getting involved, I think we can affect some real change.
This world needs less labels.
When you have to go to a separate section or shelf in a store to see books that relate to you, a little part of you resents that and shuts down a bit. Maybe you don’t want to walk over there and get those books because it accentuates your “otherness”. The same thing happens online. People might be hesitant to click on something like books that are marketed toward them because it creates a sense of “we” vs. “they”. In real life it isn’t like that anymore, for the most part. There are no separate water fountains or train cars. But when kids pick up a book, they are transported back 60 years, which is sad. Less of that would be awesome in the future.
People might be hesitant to click on something like books that are marketed toward them because it creates a sense of “we” vs. “they”.A good book should just be a good book, regardless of what the characters look like. We aren’t there yet, but if we make things more inclusive, before we know it there will just be books. Whatever you like, you’ll pick up and be comfortable. Less labels would be something we’d like to see more of.
Every little girl has a story.
Our motto and philosophy with the series is that every little girl has a story. What we’d like to convey is exactly that- every little girl does in fact have a story. Not just little white girls but girls of every other hue as well.
The overwhelming narrative in local and national bookstores doesn’t represent enough ethnic and gender diversity on the shelves to match what is actually happening in the real world.The biggest thing we want to convey is that little black girls have the same experience as all other girls. It’s not always a struggle or an issue we are working through. Our first book, Comora’s New Shoes is about a little girl who begins walking and needs shoes. Every child who has feet can relate to that! The protagonist just happens to be a young black girl. It’s still a great story. That is just one example of what we can do.
We just wanted to showcase some of the styles and techniques that are popular among young girls of color with natural hair.Our latest book, How I Wear My Amazing Hair is a book that celebrates the beauty of natural hair for young girls. It isn’t an “issue” book. It doesn’t address the stigma of natural hair vs. processed or “good” hair. There are many authors who have done a wonderful job with those subjects but we just wanted to showcase some of the styles and techniques that are popular among young girls of color. Young girls seeing themselves in their most natural and self actualizing state is a very empowering thing.
The response from the community has been really positive.
We are on our third book with the Comora’s Stories series. The momentum is steadily building. We have been navigating the learning curves of being new to self-publishing (and new authors”>. How I Wear My Amazing Hair has been extremely popular with the natural hair community. There is obviously some synergy there. We are working on getting our series in schools for kindergarten and elementary school grades. We think the Comora’s Stories series will do well in schools and that will be reflected in our community.
The inspiration for our stories
For Waterworks Won’t Work, I literally said, “your waterworks aren’t going to work with me, young lady” to my daughter. It was funny at the time, but then the proverbial lightbulb went off in my head. This was after the umpteenth time of her crying over no TV. or having to go to bed. It’s a delicate place with children and crying, because in our community when I was growing up, you never cried. No matter what. It wasn’t an acceptable form of self-expression. I didn’t want to convey that to my daughter, though. I wanted to be able to let her know it was OK to cry when nothing else will do. But when it’s not necessary, she definitely needs to use her words.
My current favorite books are Between The World and Me by Ta-Nehisi Coates–and virtually every word Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie has written. Chimamanda once gave a TED talk about the danger of one story-basically not letting one person or point of view control the narrative as it pertains to a group of people. Those two writers are in heavy rotation right now.
How to support Comora’s Stories
Our website, www.comorasstories.com, just went through a reorganization to make it more responsive for tablet owners so that is a great place to keep up with us and purchase our books. On our site you will also find a link to our merchandise shop via Spreadshirt.com. Our books are Available from Amazon and iTunes both in paperback or as digital downloads.
Libraries and academic institutions can go to Ingram Spark and place orders there. For social media, @comorasstories is how you can find us on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook, Tumblr and Pinterest. As always, we love to hear from fans at comorasparents@comorasstories.
Hi! My name is Nikki Duckworth from Atlanta, GA.
I’ve been natural for five years, and I am always evolving. Currently the naturalista behind Dear Naturalista-a line of statement tees and accessories just for naturals. I have loved fashion since I was a kid, but for some reason I didn’t think of making it a career for the longest time. After working in a totally unrelated field, I started over in the apparel industry.
I moved across the country to attend FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising”> in Los Angeles, got internships and went on to work in design departments where I learned so much. I’ve been working in fashion in various roles for a decade now.
After working in a totally unrelated field, I started over in the apparel industry… I see expansion into other product categories to as a lifestyle brand.
I’m so inspired by the sense of community that has developed around the natural hair experience.
It’s so amazing to witness the enthusiasm, creativity and sharing of ideas. That alone feels like an endless source of inspiration. In general, I love to read, people watch and observe the world around me. Inspiration comes from the most unexpected places and at the most random times.I want Dear Naturalista to be the go-to brand for naturals looking for tees and accessories to express themselves. I see expansion into other product categories to serve customers as a lifestyle brand.
The natural community should be embraced and celebrated.
My fave quote: “If you want to achieve greatness, stop asking for permission.” -Eddie Colla. It serves a constant reminder to be great on my own terms.
Come say hello!
As I have experimented with new products, I have discovered three categories of ingredients that suggest a product is going to provide more bad hair days than good ones. Obviously, every curly’s hair is different, so what is a disaster for my curls may be the bees knees for another head of curls. Here are 4 go-to tips for deciphering popular ingredients on your product labels.
Gunky, hard-to-remove ingredients (petrolatum, beeswax, candelilla wax”>
If an ingredient is difficult to remove from carpeting, skin, or clothing, you can bet it’s going to require some umph to cleanse off of your curls. These ingredients require higher temperatures of water and more concentrated, sulfate-containing shampoos—used more frequently—to budge the buildup. This can be a problem because curls can lose their definition and bounce with a lack of moisture. Shampooing more often and with harsher shampoos can yield more frizz and flat curls.While petrolatum and beeswax usually produce gradual build-up symptoms, candelilla wax (the wax that makes lipstick a solid stick instead of a liquid gloss”> gives me intense frizz from the first day. Build-up, over time, will leave hair flat, greasy, frizzy, and limp.
Silicones and siloxanes
Silicones (including siloxanes”> seal the cuticle and impart a powdery smooth, shiny finish to hair. Most silicones do not rinse away with water alone, which means they require a shampoo to remove. When silicones build up, they generally cause a faux shininess that smooths frizz temporarily without helping them to clump and separate. I personally love dimethicone but experience intense frizz with siloxanes.
Drying alcohols
Hairsprays and some regular gels contain drying alcohols. These may be listed as SD Alcohol-40B or alcohol denat (which stands for denatured”> and are usually one of the first ingredients in the list.
Drying alcohols prevent hairsprays from wetting and flattening hair and allow hair to dry more quickly. However, as the alcohol evaporates from your hair, it robs your curls of the moisture they need to form frizz-free curls. Overuse of drying alcohols can instigate a need for more hairspray to control unruly, dry frizz and more gel to keep curls from wilting or breaking up when their moisture level is lacking.
Using hairspray primarily for special occasions or only on wet hair can reduce the negative, drying effects. Similarly, treating your hair to a daily leave-in, frequent deep moisture treatments, and limited shampooing with gentle, sulfate-free formulas can also reverse some of the drying damage.
What ingredients to expect
There is something to be said for knowing what belongs in a formulation and what is unique. By knowing what ingredients are commonplace in a product type, similarities can be found.
For example, most serums contain very similar ingredients. Therefore, if you know your curls were frizzy when you used Frizz Ease serum, you’ll know other cyclopentasiloxane-based serums will yield comparable results. When you read the ingredients on Tigi S-Factor One Curl at a Time Curl Serum, you may recognize a serum with no silicones and instead, a polyquaternium, glycerin, aloe, and castor oil as the base. Your results with this product would be very different from the cyclopentasiloxane-based serum.Shampoos
Clarifying shampoos contain detergents called surfactants. Common ones are sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium trideth sulfate, and cocamidopropyl betaine. Since ingredients are listed in descending order on a label, it’s impossible to know how strong a shampoo is without trying it.
Water is usually the first ingredient, followed by a surfactant. It may contain a lot of water and just a low or high surfactant concentration. This is even true with sulfate-free shampoos. Often, they are highly concentrated to compensate for the lack of sulfates and actually more drying than a more aqueous, sulfate-containing shampoo.
It’s not uncommon to see silicones such as dimethicone in shampoos. They are used to coat hair to prevent surfactants from removing too much moisture.
Watch out for sodium chloride (table salt”>, which can rough up the cuticle of curly hair. Again, the concentration is difficult to determine. I have had trouble with my hair having an unusual “toweled-dry” feeling while I’m still in the shower, just after rinsing out one of these shampoos. But other shampoos with sodium chloride have never given me this effect. Unfortunately, shampoos are challenging to judge by ingredients alone.
Conditioners
Conditioners, deep treatments and leave-in conditioners contain moisturizing ingredients such as fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol”>, detanglers (cetrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate”>, humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol”> that draw moisture from the steamy air and into your hair, proteins (wheat protein, soy amino acids”>, and extracts that impart properties of their source plant. Awesome conditioners frequently have a thick, substantial texture and also contain natural butters (like shea”> and oils (like avocado”>. Candelilla waxes and silicones are frequently found in conditioners.
Gels
Gels, as well as other stylers like spray gels, mousses, thickeners and root lifters, contain primarily hold ingredients (like vp/va copolymer”> and moisture ingredients to disperse the hold ingredient evenly through the hair without being plasticky to the touch.
Many curlies prefer either liquidy textured gels or thick gels with a spreadable slip in the hands. Mousses, which contain a propellant (such as propane”>, are popular for some curlies but provide much less hold than gels. Silicones, gunky ingredients and drying alcohols can be found in gels and mousses so they are worth a slow, deliberate read before purchasing.
Creams and pomades
Creams contain more moisture ingredients like fatty alcohols and butters than hold and are similar to the marriage of a leave-in and gel. Many curlies like creams better in winter than in summer because their heavy moisturization can cause over-conditioned frizz or can allow the oils to fry their curls. Gunky ingredients and silicones are frequently found in creams.Pomades contain gunky ingredients, thickeners and oils. They are used on dry hair to smooth frizz, shape and bend hair with precision and long-lasting hold, and add texture. Using too much at a time can cause frizz rather than preventing it.
Serums
Serums contain silicones and occasionally drying alcohols. They add shine and seal over the cuticle. As they are almost completely comprised of silicone, they can build up and cause hair to look producty without regular shampooing with a sulfate-containing shampoo.
To sum it up
By exploring which ingredients affect your individual curls in positive or negative ways, more of your hair budget can be applied to products likely to complement your curls.
This article was originally published in 2013 and has been revised for timeliness, grammar, and clarity.
Perhaps you thought that you’d heard the last from Dolezal, but in a recent interview with Vanity Fair she describes the challenge of losing her esteemed role as president, her friends, her credibility and her source of income in one fell swoop following the interview in which her parents revealed that she had been born white.
In order to make ends meet, Dolezal is capitalizing on one of the skills she learned in college, though not in any classroom or lecture hall. She credits her college years for giving her the opportunity to learn and perfect the skills and techniques needed for maintaining natural, traditionally African American hairstyles such as braiding and weaves. Yes, you read that right.
It was these skills that have helped provide her cover over the years while she falsely claimed her identity as a Black woman, and the same skills are now providing her income as she faces the fallout of those lies.
According to Vanity Fair, Rachel Dolezal is taking this profession seriously, and is even building a steady clientele–she fulfills three hair appointments a week, so far.
While so many people continue to be blistered by her racially insensitive choice of words and self-identification as a Black woman, Dolezal still does not quite understand the uproar about her public ousting.
She chalks up the years of consistent lying publicly about her race as a big miscommunication between her and the media. If you think Dolezal is resigned to fading into obscurity with her braiding business, think again. She shared with Vanity Fair her desire to one day write a book to further explain her reason for identifying as Black:
“I would like to write a book just so that I can send [it to] everybody there as opposed to having to continue explaining,” she said to Vanity Fair. “After that comes out, then I’ll feel a little bit more free to reveal my life in the racial social-justice movement. I’m looking for the quickest way back to that, but I don’t feel like I am probably going to be able to re-enter that work with the type of leadership required to make change if I don’t have something like a published explanation.”
What does Black twitter think?
Since Vanity Fair’s interview went live, here are a few screenshots of what some tweeters had to say about the whole bizarre thing:
What are your thoughts? Let us know in the comments below.
These are the headlines that have the NaturallyCurly office talking this week, because even in our off time we talk curly hair!
New Zealand has installed $400 flat irons in public restrooms.
New Zealand’s Ministry of Business is providing coin-operated straightening irons in the public restrooms so women can keep up “personal appearance and brand.”
More women are trading in baking soda for shampoo.
After vetting the pros and cons of washing hair with shampoo, Emily from The Spice Of Life deleted her sulfate shampoo usage 9 months ago and is now an active online “No-Poo Movement” influencer.
Dutch afros have a secret, and these bloggers want to tell.
In this book, “we share more than 35 stories of trendsetting, cool, happy and passionate Afro-Dutch women (and a few men”> that tell their hair story in a funny, and heartwarming but bold manner.” Get it now
“The Talk” star Adrienne Bailon pledges to be Team No Heat this summer.
Singer-turned-talk show host Adrienne Bailon told Latina.com and Instagram that she promised to abstain from applying heat to her hair this summer.
Yet another reason why NaturallyCurly’s co-founder is so cool.
Check out her summary of 9 other dope quotes from speakers at the empowering Blogging While Brown Conference.
Montreal started its first annual meetup!
Inhairitance Curl Spa hosted its inaugural natural hair congress. Focusing on sharing awareness on the care and beauty of curly, kinky, wavy and locked hair on June 27 in Montreal, Canada.
This weird sponge will twist your hair for you.
Yup, you read that right. Would you use this?
The big trend on Spring-Summer 2016 runways? Afros.
Reginald, GQ’s resident fro wearer, tells us the steps to rocking one with confidence.
Dads are learning how to do their daughters’ hair. Finally.
If only Dad had access to one of these classes offered by Upper West Side, Manhattan Cozy Cuts for Kids salon. Read more
Michelle Breyer is the president and co-founder of TextureMedia, Inc., which is the parent company of NaturallyCurly.com and CurlyNikki.com. With over 17 years in the curly hair industry, she is a true Curl Boss. Find out what really inspired her to leap into this previously untapped market despite the constant naysayers and doubt from her journalist peers. She is a happy wife to Jody Seaborn and mother to curly girl Emma.
Embracing my own curls didn’t happen overnight.
It took me a long time to embrace my curls. My mother cut my hair into a pixie until I was in 8th grade and I finally rebelled. Then I tried every method possible to straighten it – hot rollers, blow dryers, sleeping in plastic rollers, plastering my hair with hairspray. I even tried getting chemical relaxers, and made the mistake once of getting a lye relaxer over a thio-based relaxer, which gave me a chemical haircut. It was not until I moved to Texas in my late 20s that I started wearing my hair curly. I didn’t fully embrace it until my early 30s, when a stylist finally gave me a cut that worked with my texture.To be honest, everyday I still get up and struggle with my curls.
Travelling with curly hair is… interesting.
Always be prepared. Bring tools for plan A but also some Plan B items in case the day does not go as planned. For me, that means carrying my favorite Ouidad pomade, Bumble and bumble Dry Hairdressers Oil, and hairspray–either Bumble and bumble Spray de Mode, Devacurl Flexible Hold or Ouidad Curl Last Flexible-Hold–along with some ponytails and bobby pins to put my hair in a bun. I bring these in case of extreme humidity, travel delays, hat head, or other factors turn my curls into an unmanageable mess. I also bring along a powder compact, my favorite lipsticks–I feel naked without lipsticks–a pack of gum, my phone charger, and a good book.
I believe big is the new long–the bigger my hair, the better.
I also bring along those products that I know work in most weather conditioners–my blow dryer, diffuser, and my curling wand to reform those curls that don’t want to play well. I like my hair big, so right before walking into a meeting, I rub a little pomade between my hands, bend over, rub my hair at the roots, spray in a little hair spray and flip my hair back. I believe big is the new long, and the bigger my hair, the better.
My Holy Grails
- Paul Mitchell Fast Form: it’s a cream-gel that works in most weather conditions
- Amika Tourmaline Clip-Free Curler Wand: It creates curls that look natural. I only need to do a few strands to give my 3b curls a more finished look
- Curlisto Active Oxygen Hair Dryer: It’s light and dries incredibly fast. It also comes with a perfect bowl diffuser for my curls.
- Ouidad Clear Control Pomade: This stuff is amazing. It helps my curls keep their definition and gets rid of that halo of curls throughout the day.
- Phillips Flexible Hook Earphones: You can listen to TV or movies on the plane without disrupting your curls.
- Marc Jacobs Perfection Powder: The perfect powder that gets rid of shine and makes me look more finished
- Dolce & Gabbana Daring lipstick: I stopped a clerk at Sephora to ask her what lipstick she was wearing. This bright pink looks good on everyone and makes you look and feel glamorous
Throughout my career, there have been a lot of pivotal moments rather than a single turning point.
I remember one of the first was at one of the company’s first “Curl Gatherings” with a room filled with women of all ages, all hair textures, all ethnicities. Women came up to me telling me how our site had changed their lives. One woman in her 50s showed me her old company badge with her hair pulled back tightly in a ponytail. She said she had hated her hair her whole life and had never worn it down until she discovered NaturallyCurly. The woman standing in front of me with beautiful curls framing her face and full of confidence looked nothing like the photo on her badge.
The woman standing in front of me with beautiful curls framing her face and full of confidence looked nothing like the photo on her badge.
A second moment was when we decided to boycott the “Princess Diaries” in 2001 because the main character needed a major makeover of curly hair to be viewed as a princess–a theme we believed sent a horrible message to teenage girls about embracing their natural beauty. Our boycott was publicized around the world, and at that moment, I realized that we were a voice for so many people.
I am a Curl Boss because I have no fear.
I am not afraid to walk up to people on the street and tell them how beautiful hair is and take their picture. I am also not afraid to tell a CEO at a major hair company that they need to come up with better offerings for curly hair or the head of a cosmetology school that they need to start training their students on how to work with texture. Someone once told me “Don’t try to be someone you’re not. Embrace what it is that makes you unique. Confidence is everything.”
The curly hair industry has come so far.
How hasn’t it changed? There were only a handful of hair products in 1997 when we first came up with the idea for NaturallyCurly. Very few hairdressers knew what to do with curls. And you rarely saw curly actresses, except if they were trying to look wild and messy.
Today, curls have become a part of the beauty landscape. There are huge sections in stores dedicated to them, hair salons that specialize in them and hundreds of blogs and YouTube channels catering to curlies. The naysayers realize that curls and coils should not be viewed only as a passing trend–here for a season and gone the next.
2015 has been an exciting year!
There are so many amazing things happening. In July, I will be receiving the Lifetime curlCHIEVEMENT Award from curlBOX and will be featured on CurlBox TV. Later in the month, I will be doing a live segment on Karen Tappin’s Karen Says Talk Show. I am also working on some fun campaigns for some exciting curl product launches in late 2015 and 2016.
Still, there’s a lot of work to do.
Cosmetology schools still don’t teach their students how to work with texture, and this needs to change. In five years, I envision the term “ethnic hair care” continuing to disappear. The focus on hair textures will grow. We are already seeing that at stores like Target, and most brands in the category now offer products for a wide range of textures.
I’d like every curly girl to know this: their curls are a vital part of who they are. That doesn’t mean they have to wear it curly every day. But those curls can be such a huge asset if they wear them with confidence.
SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Shampoo
Many textured-haired women are still undecided about using shampoo, which one, and how often. The SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Shampoo (JBCO”> is the only cleanser that thoroughly cleanses my hair and scalp without leaving it excessively dry. Since it lathers very well I do not have to apply a generous amount. I hold my ends taut, apply about a quarter sized amount to each quadrant of my scalp, scrub with my fingers, and smooth the lather down the length of my hair to encourage shine. With this shampoo my hair does not shrink and matt, so I do not have to detangle beforehand. The JBCO shampoo is so thorough yet gentle that I use it twice a week with no issues.
SheaMoisture Superfruit Complex 10-in-1 Renewal System Hair Masque
After cleansing I faithfully deep condition my hair to restore the moisture that the shampoo depleted from my strands. Like my shampoo I do not have to apply generous amounts of the SheaMoisture Superfruit Complex 10-in-1 Renewal System Hair Masque because the slip helps it spread easily. I receive the most moisture when I cover my hair in a plastic processing cap and sit under a hooded dryer for 15-20 min. I always tell people that the determinant of whether a deep conditioner works is how your hair feels after you rinse it off. I have used products full of slip and leave my hair with no moisture. Don’t be fooled ladies! Granted it is nice to expedite the detangling process, remember the purpose of deep conditioning is to impart moisture. Your hair should feel soft and moisturized after rinsing your deep conditioner or masque.
This article was not sponsored by SheaMoisture.
SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Leave-in Conditioner
The SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Leave-in Conditioner is one of my favorite leave-in conditioners. It maintains the moisture after my deep conditioning session while strengthening my hair as well. A few of the moisturizing and strengthening ingredients include hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed rice protein, castor seed oil, and aloe barbadensis leaf juice. My hair is always left soft and not hard like most products with proteins.
Read more: 6 Proteins that Must Be Hydrolyzed…If You Want Them to Work
Eden BodyWorks All Natural Curl Defining Crème
The Eden BodyWorks All Natural Curl Defining Creme is hands down the best styling crème I have ever used. It is neither as thick as a gel nor as thin as a pudding or a soufflé, so maybe calling it a crème gel is the most accurate way to describe its consistency. There are three uncompromising reasons why I love this styler: slip, definition, and hold. Regardless of how well a styler will enhance my curls, I will not reuse the product if it does not contain slip. A styler without slip will cause tangles and breakage. When I shingle this product through my hair it glides effortlessly without friction. The next factor is definition. Without definition the styler did not serve its purpose, period. Hold is determined by the longevity of my style. If I can wear a wash and go for 4-7 days without much frizz, then the styler is worth repurchasing. With Type 4 textures being prone to looking and feeling drier than looser textures, this styler adds shine to my hair while sealing in moisture with the coconut oil, jojoba seed oil, and avocado oil.
This is my go-to regimen for maintaining a clean scalp and a moisturized, defined, wash and go with 4a hair.
How do you maintain moisture in the summertime?
[prodmod]
My name is Miriam. I’m 25 and I live and work in Milan, Italy. I work as Social Media and Trend Consultant for a few agencies. I’m the co-founder of Collage Mag, a teen magazine that will be launched in September.
I tried to flat iron my hair just once, I think I was 8 or 9 years old. I told myself “OMG this is amazing
I tried to flat iron my hair just once, I think I was 8 or 9 years old. I told myself “OMG this is amazing” and a friend of mine reassured me that it would last a week, at least. The day after I woke up just to realize that I had my naturally curly hair again and I understood that it wasn’t worth it.
The only Italian community of natural hair lovers that I know is Afro-Italian Nappy Girls. They have a website and a great Facebook page and I have to say that I love what they are doing. They have two missions: the first one is to engage with nappy girls who live in Italy and to help them to find their style in a natural way. The second one is to raise the awareness on the presence of Afro-Italian people in Italy and to start calling them with the appropriate words (the use of “Afro-Italian” is not common in Italy”>.
The prevalent “beauty” model has straight, long and mostly dark hair. The opposite of mine haha. Even when she has curly hair, curls are not realistic and it’s really hard to empathize with such unreal models.
In my opinion, the [curly] situation has improved in the last decade.
We have access to the Internet and multiculturality–in our country and worldwide too–is helping us to understand that it’s impossible to live with just one beauty “model.” Beauty is not a rule. When I was a little girl, sometimes someone bullied me because I was the only one with curly hair in my class, but my hair has slowly become my “trademark” and I am very proud of it.
I always try to find cheap products that can guarantee great results in spite of the price. Now I’m trying a shampoo that contain extract of organic oat and it’s doing its job, I like it. It’s produced by Ekos and it is supposed to have a low impact on environment and less damaging ingredients than other products. I bought it in a supermarket in Milan. Next time I would like to try a Lush product. I love the brand and I hope to find something that’s suitable for my hair.
You can find me on Twitter, Instagram and Tumblr. And here is the website of my new project, I hope you’ll enjoy it: Collage Mag. Thank you very much Devri!
Scott Musgrave and is a hairstylist who specializes in curly hair with 100% curly clientele. He has a private studio in Cary, North Carolina that is set up for a Service Experience with art and products for People of Curl, “No flat irons, chemicals or thinning scissors allowed in my studio.” He is also the founder of Curly Hair Artistry which is a non-brand based platform with a membership of stylists that have a passion for curly hair all over the globe that focuses on developing the Personal Vision of each Artist. And we think he’s a #CURLboss!
No flat irons, chemicals or thinning scissors allowed in my studio.
1. How did you get started in the curly hair salon industry?
After high school I went into the USMC and after my 4 years I was working in the construction industry and was dating a hair stylist that inspired me to attend Cosmetology School in the city of Raleigh NC and I quickly went through the course and I have been a stylist since 1986.
Having curly hair myself, I have a natural ‘sensitivity’ to working with curly hair…
In 2000 I found Lorraine Massey’s Curly Girl Handbook and it ignited a spark inside of me to focus more on curly hair as a Full Service Experience for my clients and I developed some ways of achieving new results without any training in how to do so. I love to think outside the box and create new ways through interpreting what I read and learn to develop new results from what inspires me. I drive ‘in box’ people crazy with always thinking ‘outside the box’ and progressing with Modern Approaches to Classic ways.
2. Are there any challenges that you face when it comes to educating clients about their curly hair?
My whole business is catering to people who have been mistreated and misinformed from the Traditional Salon Industry. My motto is: “Your hair doesn’t need to be fixed – it needs to be embraced!”
About everyone is frustrated with dry hair, a triangle shape and products and tools that are designed to FIX your hair and yet the traditional service in the industry is keeping the client in a cycle of constant frustration with products that dry out the hair and traditional layering methods that create clumps, bulky sections that fall into a triangle shape when it is not flat ironed or blown out.
This makes for misinformed and mistreated people that are searching for an authentic service experience catering to their God-given hair pattern, that informs them correctly and also treats them with respect to embracing their hair and the best cut and product application that caters to their hair porosity.
3. What is the biggest reward that comes with this industry?
Seeing the look on the clients face when it all falls into place and my service is designed to allow the client to do the application process and I guide them through it and if you see my before and after photos the ‘after’ picture was achieved by the client doing the work.
Once they leave the salon, they know how to work with their hair, have a great cut that works with their specific pattern of wave, curl or coil and get positive reinforcement based on authentic compliments from all that wonder how their curls look so great.
When a client returns and I see that their hair has gotten in better condition and their product application is wonderful. This gives me confidence in knowing I am doing the right thing and I love everyday of my work.
4. You have a blog on your website, Magicurl. What is the focus of that blog?
I was a Sleight of Hand Magician for 30 years and I kept hearing from my clients that the process they were experiencing in my studio with the words, “This is magical” or “Your a magician” so – I took the word ‘magical’ and twisted the letters to form “MagiCurl” and it teaches my readers how to become sleight of hand experts with working with their hair.
You can over handle your hair way more than you think you can – and that is out of the box – when you know how to – and learn application techniques similar to sleight of hand but designed for your hair to achieve wonderful MagiCurl results. It has worked for years for me and my clients.
5. You offer a curl “Boot Camp”. What is this?
When you go to the eye doctor for contacts, you must learn to remove the contacts before you leave their office; I take on that same approach with you must know how to work with your curls before you leave my studio.
Traditional stylists do the work for the client – you leave and STILL wonder how to work with your hair. One day I took a risk and guided the client through the process and it made a total difference. I no longer was getting emails and phone calls wondering what I did to make their hair look so nice – as it was working for them. From this I receive over 300 new clients every year on top of my current clients based on people seeing wonderful curls out in the world and people approach them as to why their hair is doing so well in the rain or humidity. Word of mouth based on my Boot Camp session is creating a new way for stylists to have their clients look their best every day and not just from leaving the salon.
6. Which useful resources do you point your clients in for learning more about hair care?
With so many people going online to research and get help. I ask my clients what is helping them as it is getting overwhelming and confusing, so I am developing a course to help with this. Many people read Lorraine’s book or Curly Nikki’s wonderful book. But people forget what they read or are unclear as to how it all falls into place for their hair. I know my blog has helped many readers and yet I do not put in all of what I can into a blog–so a course will be more helpful.
7. What is the Magicurl Application Process?
As mentioned, The MAP is about developing a personal routine that caters to your hair pattern, porosity and the season of year or environmental factors to inform and treat well their own hair that also makes you aware of the lifestyle that is required to maintain the integrity of your hair.
So many people were continually frustrated with the brand based videos that still did not help out with frizz and the pesky halo hairs that pop out and about and hover all day long above your head.
The MAP was created to address Halo and Frizz more so than the other methods. If you do not have frizz or halo then the other methods will work well, but if you are still frustrated with frizz and halo then The MAP helps with this along with achieving better day 2-4 hair as well.
8. Tell us about the Curly Hair Artistry Symposium that you also have created.
I formed Curly Hair Artistry (CHA”> based on the demand for Advanced Education. Many stylists go to YouTube or read blogs or attend some academies over and over to find out more information but it was Brand Based or Consumer or Client driven and it was missing elements of a Professional Stylist Perspective. While many stylists stay with one method of cutting and working with curls that works for them, many other stylists are interested in what more is possible and CHA is designed to take stylists out of their comfort zones and work on all types of hair and create new application products with whatever products we want to create our form of art from in an environment that supports creative freedom with no restrictions.
After years of developing friendships and trust with some of the best curly hair specialists in the world and creating a new vocabulary of working with curly hair on my blog and learning tips from the experiences of my clients–we can learn a lot from listening to our clients. I decided to create CHA with a Facebook page and soon a website that we can discuss the techniques we come up with, ask questions on how to color curly hair and the business side of it as well. This has helped stylists to achieve many wonderful results that was missing a few years ago. I am very proud of all the members that shape the vision of what we are doing. We are small and focused on quality with a membership of over 100 from Australia, Brazil, Canada, Newfoundland, Italy, UK and all over the USA as of now.
9. How can clients in your area schedule an appointment or inquire about services?
www.scottmusgravehair.com has all the information required as to setting up a first time service with me. I ask for back and side photos to make sure the service will benefit you as I have many that show up overly layered from previous traditional services and need to wait to grow more for me to be able to shape it properly with a dry curl by curl cut that I call a Cubist Curl Cut that is based on Cubist Art Principles that take a 2D hair cut into a 3 Dimensional shaping. It is a 2 hour session with Boot Camp, The MAP guidance and Cubist Cut.
Follow me online! Instagram – Scott Musgrave Hair, Facebook- Curly Hair Artistry, Blog- CurlyHairArtistry.com
I love the avocado in all of its forms. I find an avocado can give a decadent flair to an otherwise bland salad or sandwich, not to mention my affection for guacamole. But it’s also an amazing beauty elixir, especially good for curly hair. This article will systemically explain “everything avocado” — from its origins and history to its growth, distribution and uses — both folk and commercial — in health and beauty products.
As a beginning soap maker and creator of natural products, I have found 1,001 uses for avocado oil. It is great for super-fatting soap, which means it remains a free, readily available ingredient in soap, unhampered by the cold processed soap-making process. Avocado oil, added at the end of its process (right before pouring into molds”>, adds emollient and humectant properties. Of course, as a hot-oil treatment, it does much the same for the hair (there is a recipe at the end of this article”>. The oil can be used for manicures and pedicures as well. Today, avocado butter — another way of processing the oil — has a dense, buttery consistency, making it ideal for creating at-home spa products.
Apart from the oil, the flesh itself can be mashed and prepared into an effective, easy-to-make deep conditioner for damaged or dry hair. I started making soaps and creams about eight years ago. Since then, a plethora of products — especially hair products — have popped onto the market-containing avocado.
Nutritious Avocado Oil
Chemically, avocado contains 1.5 to 2.5 percent protein and 13-22 percent oil[1]. Avocado oil is rich in vitamins A, B, C and E. The amino acid content range is: palmitic, 7.0; stearic, 1.0; oleic, 79.0; linoleic, 13.0.
Avocado oil has a great shelf life (one of the qualities I appreciate the most with herbal formulations”>. It has been reported to last as long as 12 years when kept at 40ºF. I have found it to be very useful for kinky, curly or wavy hair because of its rich viscosity. Like many tropical oils, it has some ability to filter out rays of the sun, it is non-allergenic and is similar to lanolin in its penetrating and softening abilities.
Because avocado oil is highly humectant and emollient, it draws moisture, which is especially good for hair.
Because avocado oil is highly humectant and emollient, it draws moisture, which is especially good for hair. A nutritious hair and skin oil, avocado oil contains traces of B complex and iron, phosphorus, varying a range of calcium, and a decent amount of ascorbic acid – a natural preservative. Avocado halves average only 136 to 150 calories. Avocado oil contains a healthy variety of amino acids, saturated fatty acids and lipids. As fatty as it sounds, it is a good type of fat recorded to help reduce (bad”> cholesterol in some patients.
Avocado Oil, Skin and Flesh
For hair, it is used in hot-oil treatments and for deep, hair conditioning; the skin is antibiotic and is used in folk medicine to kill bugs within the body and to treat dysentery. Avocado pulp can be whipped smooth and applied to face or massaged into the hair for a quick and easy softening, conditioning and moisturizing mask. The fruit has the highest energy content of any fruit. It is high in its vitamin and mineral content, as well as a good source of mono-unsaturated fat and soluble and insoluble fiber. In poor areas of the world, it has been coined the “poor man’s butter.”
Leaves
- Avocado leaves produce an oil, estragol, that is used in the cosmetics industry.
- The leaves are chewed to treat pyorrhea, a very serious gum disease.
- Leaf poultices are used to treat wounds.
- The leaf juice contains antibiotics.
Seed
- The powdered seed is used to combat dandruff.
- The seed is cut in pieces, roasted, powdered and used as a diarrhea or dysentery remedy.
- A piece of the seed, or a bit of the decoction, put into a tooth cavity is used in folk medicine to relieve toothache.
- Ointment made of the pulverized seed is rubbed on the face to draw energy to the area, reddening it and working as a natural blusher.
Products with avocado oil
Thankfully today avocado is readily available just about anywhere you look. Either grab an avocado to condition your hair with or pick up a hair care product containing a high percentage of organic avocado. Here are a few products that contain avocado oil:
- John Masters Lavender and Avocado Intensive Conditioner
- Ojon Hydrating Styling Cream
- Ojon Ultra Hydrating Conditioner
- MyHoneychild Olive You Deep Conditioner
- Curl Junkie Coffee-Coco Curl Creme
- Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Deep Fix
- Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Honey Butta Leave-in Conditioner
- Jessicurl Too Shea! Extra Moisturizing Conditioner
- Kynk Hair Honey
- Blended Beauty Natural Hair Oil
- Curl Junkie Curl Rehab Hair Treatment
- Jessicurl Oil Blend for Soft Hair
- Hair Rules Nourishment Leave-in Conditioner
- Burt’s Bees Avocado Pre-Shampoo Treatment
Avocado Recipes
Avocado Hot Oil Treatment
Whatever the season, the hair can benefit from a little special treatment beyond the usual shampoo or conditioner. I recommend this dense, hot oil treatment to add shine. It has a minty, floral scent provided by the essential oils, which also help condition hair and scalp. Recommended for dry, damaged, color-treated or chemically treated hair.
- ¾ cup avocado oil
- 1/8 cup safflower oil
- 1/8 cup sweet almond oil
- 8 drops lavender
- 6 drops lemongrass oil and rosemary
- 4 drops geranium (essential oils”>
Avocado Conditioner
- Flesh of a ripe avocado
- ¼ cup coconut cream
- ¼ cup coconut water
- 3 tablespoons mayonnaise containing egg
In medium-sized bowl mix avocado and coconut cream. In very small bowl whisk together coconut water and mayonnaise using a spatula to add this to the first mixture. Whisk all together until smooth. Divide hair into 6-8 segments. Slather green mixture on each segment working all the way into hair, from scalp area to the ends. Put on shower cap or other loose fitting plastic cap. Sit out in the sun if possible or under dryer on medium high setting, if available. Leave on hair for 45 min. Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and style as usual.
Resources
- www.100pureessentialoils.com and www.libertynatural.com.
- Wholesale Supplies Plus
- www.Fromnaturalwithlove.com
- [1] Dooley, Puerto Rican Cookbook, 109.
Hello, I am Mercedes Yvette! Jersey bred, California raised.
Co-owner/Jewelry Designer of The Gilded Fox, Actress/Model, Spokeswoman for The Lupus Foundation of America, and happy yogi. Woohoo. A mouthful. I was diagnosed with Lupus 12 years ago shortly in my junior year of college while competing for Americas Next Top Model. Initially, I was deeply saddened because I know the disease too well because my grandmother passed away from complications of having Lupus.
What symptoms did you notice?
Extreme fatigue happened a couple of years before being diagnosed with Lupus. Then I started to have joint pain all over to the point that I couldn’t make myself a peanut jelly sandwich because I couldn’t unscrew the lid.
In what ways did your life have to change after being diagnosed?
My life changed immensely when I decided I didn’t want to be sick anymore. I woke up and made it my choice to “cure” myself. I mentally switched off “woe is me” to “I am healthy, happy and strong”. I did research to find how some people cured themselves of cancer and other autoimmune diseases. I read books like Kris’s Carr, Crazy Sexy Cancer and books by Dr. Weil. They taught me about clean and healthy eating and what are in the products we use on a daily basis.
My life changed immensely when I decided I didn’t want to be sick anymore. I woke up and made it my choice to “cure” myself.
I now eat mostly a vegetarian diet with minimal amount of meat. When I do eat meat it is from a local butcher that knows the farm and they are aware of how the animals are treated and are fed with hormone free feed. On the go can sometimes be a challenge but I believe in companies like Chipotle that serve fresh, organic, and ethically responsible food. All of my products are natural. I use a ton of Ayurvedic essential oils.
You became a spokesperson for Lupus Foundation of America. What has your experience been helping others cope with this illness?
As a spokesperson you come across so many strong people living and adjusting to what life throws at them. I have met amazing doctors and politicians who care about change and making a difference in the autoimmune world. Since I’ve been a spokesperson they have come out with a new drug for Lupus which hasn’t changed since Eisenhower was in presidency. Wow!! Yet, still we have a long way to go in the research world.
We are all jealous of your skin and hair. What are your beauty secrets?
If I tell you that I will have to kill you. Haha. Evanhealy is a great all natural company. I use primrose oil once a week as a night treatment. However the real beauty secret is what you put in your body and not necessarily what you put on it. Although Lots of sunscreen and minimal sun with a dash of vitamin D can aid in the aging process. I’m a big believer of living in a stress free zone and lots of laughter.
You also have a jewelry collection, The Gilded Fox.
The Gilded Fox was started by me and business partner Danielle Yu. It’s a vintage inspired line with an edge. We both share a passion in past decades and handmade goods and saw a lack in the market for great handmade goods with a timeless feel. Our inspirations come from the people we meet to the places we travel.
The real beauty secret is what you put in your body and not necessarily what you put on it… I’m a big believer of living in a stress free zone and lots of laughter.
What else can we expect from you in 2015?
My industry is unpredictable. However you can expect to see me and The Gilded Fox on youtube and coming to a store near you.
For those of us with an illness striving to still live as “normal” of a life as possible while staying as fierce as YOU, what piece of advice would you give us?
First off thank you for that fierce comment. What is “normal” in the grand scheme? The one advice is go at your own pace and stay positive. You are control of your destiny for the most part the rest is up to GOD. I may have Lupus but it doesn’t define who I AM.
You can keep up with Mercedes Yvette by following her on Instagram & Twitter, and liking her on Facebook. Visit The Gilded Fox site for her jewelry collection.
