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Bon voyage!
It’s time to unwind on that much-anticipated summer getaway. You’ve booked your flight and can’t wait to whisk yourself off to an exotic or adventurous hot spot.
Now comes the hard part.
You’re packing your bags, deciding what to bring. Your stress level begins to rise when you realize you can’t tote all your hair products and still meet the two-suitcase limit. What’s a curly girl to do?
Here, curl-centric stylists cut through the clutter with strategies and must-have products to help you embark on a stress-free vacation—whether you’re headed into the dry, desert air or a more humid, beach environment.
Humid ClimateIf your respite includes little more than your bikini and a white sandy beach in the Caribbean, don’t let the ocean breeze catch you off guard. You may not feel the harsh heat on the glittering shoreline, but you will feel the humidity—and so will your curls and kinks—especially if you’re coming from a drier locale.
But if you pack the right products, curl experts say you can keep the frizz at bay while you play.
“You’re going to need a high-humidity gel and a treatment, such as a styling cream that blocks out the humidity,” says Christo, curl expert and Global Artistic Director of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue salon.
He recommends his Curlisto Structura Lotion, Curlisto Repair Styling Cream, and Curlisto Control 1 Gel (for wavy to curly hair”> or Curlisto Control II Gel (for tighter curls and kinks”>.
“You mix the gel with the styling lotion,” he adds.
In the evenings, if it’s just too sticky hot to bother styling your curls, Christo suggests creating a no-fuss, sleek look.
“You can use a bit of gel, slick the hair back and twist it into a chignon,” he says. “I always tell my clients to consider accessories as well, like a ponytail holder with water pearls, japanese beads, etc.”
After all, vacations are supposed to be fun, relaxing and worry-free!
“You never see anyone going out with perfectly coifed hair at these beach resorts,” adds Stanley of New York’s Christopher Stanley Salon. “It’s all about low-maintenance fun, so bring lots of clips and bobby pins. And don’t bother spending money on doing your color before your beach vacation because it’ll just be ruined in the pool and the sun. It will oxidize a lot and you’ll just have to come into the salon and get it fixed.”
When you’re spending a day by the pool, make sure you rinse your hair every time you step out of the water. Then add a protective coating of conditioner. Don’t want to carry another bottle around? In a pinch, Stanley says the same creamy, sunscreen lotion you use to protect your skin can also protect your hair. Just make sure it doesn’t contain a bronzer or any type of pigment.
Remember, the more moisture you have in your hair, the less frizz you’re going to see. And the earlier you start to improve the health of your hair, the better off you’ll be.
“A few weeks before you leave on vacation, you can use a deep conditioning treatment once a week—although twice a week wouldn’t hurt— and your hair will be much better prepared to handle the humidity,” says Christine Williamson of Carriage House Salon & Spa in Cambridge, Mass., who recommends Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque and Bumble & Bumble Deeep Treatment.
In your hotel or bungalow, you can continue to use a deep-conditioning treatment. Even keep it in overnight, as needed.
“When you allow the conditioner to penetrate the hair shaft for those eight hours, you’ll get the most luxurious, gorgeous curls when you rinse it out in the morning,” Williamson says.
She also recommends bringing your own satin pillowcase to snooze on.
“It will be much more gentle on your curly hair,” she says. “You can just fold it up and stick it in your suitcase.”
Elie Camoro of New York’s Frederic Fekkai 5th Avenue Salon also recommends making room in your suitcase for Fekkai’s Zero Humidity Frizz Control to keep the frizz down and Beach Waves to boost the curl. On damp hair, Camoro suggests curlies start with the anti-frizz spray, which offers UV protection and serves as a leave-in conditioner. Then apply Beach Waves, starting at your hairline and moving to the back, using your fingers to twirl sections of hair away from your face.
“When you’re in the Caribbean, you don’t want to pack a blow dryer, curling iron or flat iron—it doesn’t make sense,” Camoro says. “It doesn’t go with the whole vibe of your vacation. The summer is less maintenance, a softer look, more beach chic. So, you pack these leave-in products, a detangling comb, and it’s wash-and-wear hair.”
Dry Climate
If you already live in a beach climate and you’re opting for a hike in the Colorado Rockies, a luxurious Palm Springs resort or the casinos of Las Vegas, the drier air in these areas offer a much-deserved break from the battle against frizz. But you will want to protect your curls from wilting in the arid weather.
“You’re probably going to find that your hair gets flat because there is no humidity,” Stanley says. “A lot of times, when people live in a humid climate and go into a dry climate, the curl stretches out so you won’t need as heavy a product.”
“You’re probably only going to need a styling lotion and products with protein, like a leave-in conditioner to create a more defined curl,” adds Christo, who suggests Curlisto Structura Styling Lotion and Curlisto Protein Boost leave-in conditioner for body and bounce.
Meanwhile, Camoro recommends Fekkai’s Quick Quench Rehydrating Gelee and Sun Bandana, which serves as a sunscreen for the hair and a conditioning treatment for drier climates.
“When skin is exposed to too much heat, you put aloe on it and it cools you down,” Camoro says. “The gelee is like aloe for the hair. It’s a good product in a dry climate because your hair is so exposed to the sun and the gelee contains UV protection. You can put it on dry or damp hair and comb it through. It can even be used as a styling product for thick, coarse hair—just add more product for control.”
If you don’t want to buy another product, Stanley says you can simply use a smaller amount of your favorite gel—or just water it down.
“When your hair is wet, you can also scrunch in your product and then gather your hair from around the crown and clip it on the top of the head,” Stanley says. “This allows the curls to dry with some lift, rather than flat to the scalp and straight out. It will prevent you from ending up with Cleopatra triangle head, which is every curly-haired person’s nightmare!”
Moisture is also important in drier climates to prevent static. Deep condition the hair and use a light leave-in conditioner to calm those electric locks. Avoid hair products that include ingredients that will dry out your hair, such as alcohol or harsh chemicals.
Pack along a fabric softener sheet and run it over your hair when it starts to get out of control. You can use it several times during the day if necessary.
Traveling with ProductSummer time vacations are always anticipated with excitement. After all the planning and making reservations are done I am ready for the next phase, packing. I think about white outfits and how many shoes I can really fit in my suitcase. I start shopping for the perfect book to read on the beach. Now the vacation is starting to all come together. Then I remember my hair. It isn’t as care free and easy as I wish it was even on vacation. That just out of the ocean or pool look is really unattainable without my hair products. Did I leave enough room in the suitcase for my hair products? Do I really need them all? My Curlisto Bio Gel Mousse, Curlisto Control I Gel , DevaCurl Set it Free spray, the cleansers and conditioners.
Yes, of course, I need them all — no curly headed woman would dare travel without her products. My vacation outfits would be worthless to me if my hair was a frizzy mess. Not even the best pair of shoes would help. But my suitcase is small and I always carry it on. Now the battle begins in my mind. Shoes or hair products? Luckily some of the products I can’t live or travel without come in the small sizes that airport security requires. Deva Curl and Curlisto are great. But the mousse and a few of my other favorites aren’t available in small sizes. So I am left with trying to make my own travel size bottles. It is messy and time-consuming, but any curly woman understands these efforts. All is going well with the funnel and labeling until I get to the mousse. The first try is a big foaming overflowing mess. Will the mousse work if I let it settle to liquid? It took a while to get the bottle full between squirts and settling time but it was worth it.
Yes, mousse works in the liquid form! Maybe not as perfectly, but well enough. I am now ready for the trip. Zipping up the suitcase, I notice I have more hair products and shoes than white outfits. Does every other curly woman’s suitcase look like mine?
— Suzanne Schroeder
Check out our travel packs!
Mop Top Travel Kit
Curly Hair Solutions Travel Pack
Jessicurl Trial Size Collection Light
Jessicurl Trial Size Collection Rich
Like many of the wild-crafted organic butters and oils I’ve written about, babassu is intimately tied to women, fair trade, tradition and community. Unlike shea butter, babassu has not yet become a household name. But with the benefits of babassu, there are many reasons to give it a try. Because of the health and prosperity it lends it is considered by many, a Tree of Life.
Babassu Origin and Growth
Like ojon and acai, babassu (Orbignya phalerata in Latin”> is a type of palm. Babassu palms grow along the southern and northeastern edge of the Brazilian Amazon. Ironically, it flourishes in economically challenged provinces such as Maranhao. Babassu palm also grows in parts of Mexico and Guyana. The trees grow up to 60 feet tall and occupy almost 29 million hectares of forest. In its native areas, it forms the dominant plant coverage.
A Most Useful Palm
Babassu has more than 35 uses, ranging from attracting game to repelling insects. The leaves of babassu palm are used to create thatch-roof housing, woven mats and to construct walls. The stems are strong and woody, lending themselves to usefulness as timbers. Though it may sound foreign to many, it is well-known in the Amazon of Brazil. Most of its value is derived from the seed kernels within the fruits. The fruit resembles small coconuts and grows in bunches, ranging from a few dozen to hundreds. The mature fruit fall from the tree mainly from August to November but continues into January and February, which is the time the rainy season begins.
The seeds contain the oil that is gaining popularity in the hair-care industry, and is being added to shampoos, conditioners and pomades. Babassu forms a protective, soothing coating on the hair shaft, helping hair withstand diverse weather conditions and direct-heat styling tools while also limiting damage to the hair shaft from coloring or other chemical treatments. The oil leaves the skin and hair feeling velvety and supple.
Babassu has superior emollient qualities (emollients draw moisture from the air, making hair and skin a pliable nature and a healthful glow.”> This exotic oil is also used for cooking and to make cosmetics such as creams, soaps, shower gels, powders and body butters. Indigenous and other people use babassu oil (where it grows as a native plant”> as a moisturizer. The oil is noted for its light feel and the fact that it is easily absorbed into the skin. It is preferable over heavier oils because of its non-greasy application. Surprisingly, it works as well for oily skin as it does for dry skin because it is an adaptable oil.
The seed kernels are cold pressed to produce the oil; the fruits are wild crafted and organic. Cold pressing means pressure is used to extract the oil rather than chemical solvents, which makes this a very wholesome oil.
Babassu Chemistry 101
The oil is very high in essential fatty acids, which makes it ideal oil for skin and hair. Babassu oil is also high in lauric acid. Lauric acid is very low in toxicity, making it a good choice for use in soaps and shampoos. Lauric acid is solid at room temperature and melts on the surface of the skin or scalp. Babassu oil also contains high concentrations of myristic acid. Lauric and myristic acids draw body heat, lending babassu oil what herbalist call coolant and refrigerant qualities. It cools down the skin and scalp, making it useful in the summer or when using heat appliances on the hair.
Babassu contains a significant amount of oleic acid, which is healthful when consumed. Oils with good concentrations of oleic acid are known to lower blood cholesterol. Like most palms, babassu contains palmitic acid. Palmitate is both antioxidant and a vitamin A compound. Palmitic acid is one of the most common saturated fatty acids.
Fair-trade and The Quebradeiras de Coco (Nut Breakers”>
In the late ’70s, indigenous people used the babassu palm as a way of defining community. The trees were used to make a stand against loggers and cattle farmers. Loggers were clear cutting babassu palm-rich Amazonian forests as were cattle farmers. The Quebradeiras de Coco are primarily women, and they chanted and performed rituals in the forest to move the loggers and farmers off their trees. Eventually they were successful. Indigenous people in the Maranhao region of Brazil continue to incorporate them into their lives.
Today commercial activity around the babassu palm affects the income of more than 2 million rural Brazilians. Babassu is even used as local currency in some areas. People are allowed to exchange the nuts for goods and services once a week. Women continue to sing, chant and perform ritual around the harvesting and processing of babassu nuts. The women gather and collect the ripened fruit from the ground, placing them in hand-woven baskets. The fruits are gathered and the women crack the nuts open using wooden clubs, sweat and perseverance. Inside the nut is the oil-rich kernel.
Companies such as Aveda and the Body Shop buy the oil directly from indigenous women’s collectives such as COPALJ — which stands for Cooperative of Agro-extractivist Producers. It consists of a dozen communities in the Maranhao area. The collective handles the collection, pressing of the nuts into oil, and selling the product in the international marketplace. Aveda and The Body Shop have done a great deal to bring babassu, and those who harvest and process it, to the attention of the international community.
Fair trade means the indigenous people, and others working with them, are paid fair market value for their product. In order to be considered fair trade by the Fair Trade Labeling Organizations International, a product’s sale has to lead to decent working conditions, local sustainability, respect for the local environment and better prices for rural citizens.
The money generated from the sale of babassu oil helps otherwise severely impoverished areas and families gain a viable income. So buying hair or skin care products featuring babassu help improve the lifestyle and living conditions of many people living in Brazil.
Products Containing Babassu
- Aveda Be Curly Curl Enhancing Lotion
- Aveda Damage Remedy Shampoo, Conditioner and Restructuring Treatment
- Aveda Smooth Infusion Shampoo and Conditioner
- John Masters Organics Hair Pomade
- The Body Shop Spa Wisdom Monoi Moisture Bath
- The Body Shop Brazilian Nut Scrub
- Avalon Organics Ylang Ylang Conditioner
- Anita Grant Babassu Shampoo Bar
- Aeto Fortifying Olive, Babassu & Jojoba Oil
- Nexxus Phyto Organic Babassu Mud Conditioner
- Epoch Baby Powder
- Babassu Liquid Powder helps protect baby’s skin and lungs since it doesn’t have the small particulate matter of dry powders. Babassu Liquid Powder is an unscented cosmetic that comes from the bottle as lotion then dries on baby’s skin as an absorbent powder.
- Do-it-yourselfers will be pleased to know you can buy the oil pure from many online shops to use in hot oil treatments or to make your own shampoo bars or conditioners. A reputable company is From Nature with Love. They sell 16 ounces for about $10, and a gallon of the oil is approximately $40.
- Many Handmade Soapmakers incorporate babassu oil into their blends, including www.soapdance.com, which features herbal, earthy and karma-enhanced soaps. Also, check out the Handmade Soapmaker’s Guild’s website for other reputable soap makers using babassu oil.
John Davis, co-founder and director of AG Hair Cosmetics, has been researching herbal extracts for as long as his company has been in existence. In the early years of the business, he used to import a product from England because of its high herbal extract content, including balm mint. Today, balm mint is in 95 percent of the products manufacturered by AG — from its Re:coil Curl Activator to its Deep Conditioner.
“Balm mint soothes the scalp, particularly if you have an oily scalp, which is a result of overactive sebaceous [or oil-producing] glands,” Davis said.
You may have only recently noticed balm mint as an ingredient in some of your upscale hair-care products, but it’s far from a new discovery. The herbal extract has been used for more than 2,000 years, mainly as a medicinal plant.
A member of the mint family, balm mint’s scientific name is melissa officinalis but it’s also known by nearly a dozen other names, including the popular lemon balm, sweet balm and bee balm. The scent of the leaves is similar to the pheromone produced by honeybees so they tend to swarm to the plant. In fact, “melissa,” which is part of the herb’s scientific name, is actually the Greek word for honeybee.
Originally native to western Asia, southern Europe, and northern Africa, balm mint is a bushy perennial plant now widely grown everywhere. It blooms in the summer months with white or golden tube-like flowers, but it is coveted most for the essential oil in its lemony scented leaves. The herb is best used when it’s freshly picked, and the flavor is the strongest just before its flowers bloom. Although the dried leaves aren’t as potent, freezing fresh leaves can help preserve that potency.
“It’s soothing to the scalp, so it’s soothing on the skin,” adds curl guru Lorraine Massey of New York’s Devachan Salon, whose No-Poo hair cleanser and B’Leave-in products contain balm mint.
AG uses balm mint in a blend of herbal extracts, Davis explains.
“It has a calming effect and it’s anti-bacterial,” he said. “Dandruff is a bacterial condition, so you can help prevent dandruff. It is also anti-fungal and anti-oxidative.”
This anti-oxidative effect also helps prevent the dreaded fading of hair color. Curl expert Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue salon in New York uses balm mint in his Colorective line, which is a treatment collection for colored hair.
“It creates a curl and color redemption for those who color their hair,” Christo says. “We use this to create more gloss and more shine to their color so their color doesn’t fade.”
The benefits of balm mint reach far beyond cosmetic and even date back to the middle ages. The Greeks treasured it as a medicinal plant because it was believed to ease depression and anxiety, as well as a myriad of ailments such as digestive spasms, menstrual cramps, insomnia, and headaches. This healing herb is even suggested to help people with an overactive thyroid.
And it doesn’t end there. Since balm mint helps ease inflammation with its anti-viral properties, it’s used to calm the swelling and pain from cold sores and insect bites.
Studies have shown that the anti-bacterial effects of balm mint can help with upper respiratory infections as well. When the leaves are used to make a hot tea, balm mint causes sweating that can help break the fever associated with colds and flu. In fact, you will often find lemon balm leaves as part of herbal blends in upscale boxed teas labeled as “calm.”
Beyond tea, the aromatic herb is used to flavor vermouth and other alcoholic beverages, some soft drinks and even foods. Its crushed leaves can be added to everything from salads and sauces to marinades and soups. Indeed, the bountiful uses of balm mint stretch from the kitchen to the medicine cabinet to the shower.
It has garnered so much attention, it is no wonder the International Herb Association (IHA”> has selected balm mint as the 2007 Herb of the Year.
Products containing Balm Mint
AG Xtramoist Moisturizing Shampoo
AG Stimulating Balm Hair & Scalp Conditioner
Curlisto Colorective line
Rusk Balm Mint & Babassu Trea
Bain De Terre Mint Balm Spray Styler
Nioxin Scalp Therapy
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Conditioner
Aubrey Organics Island Naturals Replenishing Conditioner
Aubrey Organics Jojoba & Aloe Desert Herb Revitalizing Conditioner
Nature’s Gate Tea Tree Shampoo
Aussie 3-Minute Miracle Reconstructor
Q: I bought “Curly Girl,” and I’ve been buying conditioner from the health-food store and it works really well. My hair is curly and a little past my shoulders. The back of my hair curls well underneath, but the hair on top is less curly. I was wondering if I grow it any longer is it going to curl even less, and should I put more layers in it? I have Botticelli curls.
Lorraine: Layers sound like a fantastic idea. You answered your own question and your instincts tell you that a few gentle layers, cut dry so you can tell where they are going to fall realistiCurly, is a good choice. Enjoy your new look!
Q: Thank you for writing “Curly Girl.” I learned so much and am loving my curls and learning to take care of them. I’ve told every curly girl I know about your book, some are even thinking about finding their inner curl! Unfortunately, before finding your line, I ordered a curl cleansing conditioner that contains witch hazel. Wouldn’t that be drying to my hair? I haven’t opened it yet, and I’m afraid to use it until I hear from you.
Lorraine: Your Curl’instincts tell you that witch hazel is an astringent and our precious curls do not need any more drying agents. If I may recommend One Condition. There should be no worries in understanding that what goes into your hair should be just as important as what goes into your body. Enjoy giving your hair what it deserves!
Q: I have naturally curly, but colored, hair. I used to have a huge head of hair. I’m 40 now, it’s just past my shoulders when wet. It’s definitely tame and normal-looking now. I have three problems: my hair falls out about a handful every day (my thyroid is fine”> 2. The ends are always damaged. 3. I don’t have the energy to fuss around in the morning (Three kids under three years old”>. I don’t like curls brushing my eyes like dangly wisps. That gives me a headache by the end of the day. What kind of cuts/shapes would you recommend?
Lorraine: My first question is always whether you still use shampoo with sodium lauryl sulfate. That might be part of the reason for your hair falling out. But there are so many variables that can cause it to fall out. If you are using a shampoo with SLS, discontinue using it immediately and switch to DevaCurl No-Poo or DevaCare No-Poo. A shorter haircut sounds like a good idea but make sure it is cut dry with movement so it’s not going to spring back too much and become helmet-like. Leave some length on top, and please, please whatever you do, make sure your bangs/fringe is cut dry and every curl in its natural placement and not cut straight across with equal lengths.
Q: I am a 17-year-old girl whose 3c hair has been getting progressively curlier as time goes on. I love my curly hair, but every day is a gamble. Sometimes (rarely”> my curly hair looks great. Most of the time, however, it ruins my day because it just won’t sit the way I want it to. I think that the problem lies in my quest for length. Two years ago, I got a cut that was all wrong. The outer layer of my hair is too short, and doesn’t match up to the curly hair. Since that cut, I’ve been waiting for my layers to grow out, but they haven’t. I’m on the verge of straightening it. Is there any way that I can make my hair grow longer, or at least try to make it look better while it is in this unfortunate style?
Lorraine: I feel for you, and millions of other curlies do, too! It took me seven years (no joke”> to grow out a hair murder! Babe, just be patient and watch my new DevaDVD (available soon in CurlMart“>. I promise you that you eventually will love your hair for life. Remember that your hair is not going anywhere — only with you. Don’t misrepresent yourself with the straightening threat. You and your hair will only prolong the inevitable, only to come down this path one more time!
Q: I’ve got a haircut rather than style question. I really love the whole “mod” look that is in style now, and I’ve noticed that a lot of those cuts include bangs — either really blunt, thick, very straight bangs, or more angled, wispy, side-swept bangs. Having shoulder-length curly hair (I’d call it a 3b according to NaturallyCurly.com’s guidelines”>, I feel like bangs might be nearly impossible. But I’ve been coveting them for months. So, for a 3b like me, are bangs out of the question? And if not, do you have any suggestions for how to incorporate them into a haircut?
Lorraine: I love the idea of bangs/fringe! I like to call them noncommittal bangs or s’bangels. Just do it! Remember to cut them gently, unevenly, one curl at a time, in their natural placement, with dry hair. When they’re stretched, they should reach the top of your mouth — possibly the chin — springing back to gently brush your eyes! It’s a sexy look, and it’s time for a change.
Q: I’m wondering if it’s possible to get my limp, thin hair to be very curly? I probably fall into the 2a category.
Lorraine: I’d like to think anything is possible. Wherever there’s a wave, there’s a curl. How curly? I can’t tell, however, in my 30 years in the hair business (I was six when I started!”>, I have seen girls who think they only have a little curl who turn out to have a lot! They have a little and it turns out they have a lot! Simply by using a shampoo free method (moisture springs things up”> and consistently reminding the hair of what it is (no blowfrying and remember to scrunch upward”> you’ll see how much curl you truly have.
In the ‘80s, heavy metal and big hair were hot. The ‘90s brought us “Friends” and Jennifer Aniston’s stick-straight locks.
But today, more hair-care companies than ever are courting the curly girl. And the attention is coming from companies both large and small, from multimillion-dollar ad campaigns to grass-roots outreach programs.
Everywhere from commercials to the latest fashion magazines, the beauty industry is turning up the charm with ads aimed at women with waves, curls and kinks. In Allure magazine last month, there were curly models in a Burberry ad, a curly Nicole Kidman in a sexy promotion for Chanel No. 5 perfume and even a sultry ad for Aveda’s new Be Curly line. You can log on to the web site for Dove’s new Pro-Age campaign and see mature curlies showcase the new line of skin, face and hair products.
Trend trackers say this could be a marriage that will last well beyond any short-term trend.
Across the country, 53 percent of women describe their hair as naturally curly or wavy, according to research by Redken — more than one out of two women! What’s even more powerful than the overall numbers is how many curlies are truly cozying up to their textured tresses.
“Women with curly hair are very happy to have curly hair,” says Perrine Calvet, Director of Global Marketing at Redken. “If you look at the broader trend it’s about embracing who you are,” Calvet says. “Women are saying ‘I feel comfortable with my curls, I think I look beautiful and I have the right tools to make myself look even more beautiful than what I am.’”
Companies such as Redken now have the technology and market research to concoct better products for softer, sexier curls — minus the sticky gels and tacky freeze spray. Redken kicked off the year with the introduction of its revamped Fresh Curls product line, after compiling extensive research, including a focus group to find out just what curly girls want.
“Women are very active now days, balancing a busy life,” Calvet says. “So for their hair, they want something that works and works fast. They don’t want to spend 30 minutes every day blow-drying their hair. It’s not who they are and they don’t have the time to do it. So as long as they can find the right products that work for them and make their hair look beautiful, then it works.”
“They want their curls to look nice. They don’t want them to be droopy, messy or frizzy,” Calvet says. “We looked at the [original] Fresh Curls line and realized we were addressing some of their concerns — but not all of them.”
Now, Calvet says, Redken does.
For curl guru Lorraine Massey, educating the curly girl is more than just a job; it’s her life-long mission. When she published the “Curly Girl” handbook several years ago, she launched Curls 101 seminars at her Devachan Salon in New York.
“I started to do this to help them feel better about themselves until they found a hairdresser for them,” Massey says. “Until the hairdressers start really, truly updating their data for the curly girl and not always wanting to blow-fry it, we’re going to continue doing the Curls 101 workshops.”
Massey also recently introduced her Deva-D, a fun, instructional DVD for curlies. There are two versions, one for professionals and one for curl-centric consumers. The Deva-D will be sold separately and also will be included in DevaCurl’s new Try Me On travel pack (which contains five of her travel-sized products and will be available this spring”> and the DevaFuser.
“We’re really teaching everything, from the moment you get up in the morning when you’re checking the weather forecast to when you go to bed at night,” Massey says. “It’s very thorough, funny and informational. We include different hair types on how to cleanse and what to use, so it’s step-by-step and less than 10 minutes long.”
Adding another twist, Massey soon will be taking her Curly Girl philosophy on the road to reach out to curlies in New York and beyond.
“We have a DevaTruck and we’re hoping to drive around to different cities in the spring and stop, like in malls, to get people,” Massey says. “This curl movement is nothing but fun, because curly girls are so much fun. There’s nothing worse than a miserable curly girl, who doesn’t know her hair. But once she does, there’s nothing stopping her.”
Diane DaCosta, curl expert and author of “Textured Tresses,” agrees. Five years ago, DaCosta says her book was a tough sell to publishing executives.
“Now I don’t have to work for it,” says DaCosta, who is currently working on another beauty and style book, this one for teens with textured tresses.
“It’s accepted and it’s not a hard sell anymore because the advertising and commercial business is actually leading me,” she says. “These companies want to capture that market now. The target is the curly, wavy and afro girl.”
And after several years of seminars on textured tresses, DaCosta is also launching an American Beauty Tour starting in early fall in Dallas, Chicago, New York and Los Angeles.
“The tour is presenting complete fashion, beauty and hair trends of all types of textures with a multicultural audience and then a beauty expert forum to answer all of their questions,” DaCosta says. “Although I knew this would happen one day, it was really hard to believe because it has taken so long. This is the time we can take a stand so it won’t go away.”
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Christo transformed this model’s frizzy mess, above, into gorgeous curls, below.
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Curl expert Christo of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue Salon is counting on it. In October, he launched free monthly seminars for curlies, which continue to pack his salon.
“This is about education,” Christo says. “We wanted to create more awareness about curly hair because people are trying to decide what kind of texture they have versus going to the salon and waiting for the stylist to tell them. We show them the different types of wavy and curly hair so it makes it easier for them to make choices. We always say it’s your hair, but it’s our passion.”
Curlies also receive one-on-one consultations after the seminar to offer more specifics on what they need to nurture their locks.
Other curl-centric salons like New York’s Ouidad have presented seminars for curly girls as well. This year, however, Ouidad launched a series of events targeting curlies, such as a Curls’ Night Out on Valentine’s Day.
The Curly Hair Institute of Toronto regularly hosts Curly Hair Clinics, a two-hour crash course in curls to help women learn how to care for their curls and kinks. The salon also offers private sessions.
“With our help, we want to help people achieve the salon look all the time,” says Steve Torch, vice president of marketing for the Curly Hair Institute and Curly Hair Solutions. “They become experts on how to work with their hair.”
Curls are even capturing the heart of women who aren’t curly, but want the curly look.
“Digital perms are now the hottest treatment in Asia, where women want to be curly, and Asian hair is not easy to curl,” says Calvet of the new high-tech perm process. “It doesn’t damage the hair, doesn’t smell bad and, more importantly, it leaves a very natural, soft type of wave. We also see that trend now in Paris, London, Vancouver, and it’s slowly coming to the U.S. So, clearly, not only are women embracing the fact that they have curly hair, they want to be curly.”
“I honestly believe curly girls are beyond just a trend because once we do have the answers we won’t go back,” adds Massey. “Curly hair is not here today and gone tomorrow. This is the real deal!”
Walk into any salon, beauty supply or neighborhood store and you’re bombarded with products emblazoned with the “ion” label, including ionic blow dryers, flat irons, curling irons, conditioning treatments and even brushes!
Many products these days are labeled ionic, such as Bio Ionic’s IonTherapy and a number of Chi products.
Devachan’s new DevaSun Dryer uses ionic technology.
Many claim to transform your dry, frizzy flyaways into smoother, shinier locks. And since we’re always looking for new ways to battle frizz, many curlies buy into the ion craze. But is it just hype or do these ionic products really make a difference?
“The answer is, it depends on the product and the quality of the product,” says Ivan Hoot, director of education and training for Andis Co., which produces ionic dryers, flat irons and curling irons. “The biggest issue here is that there’s an awful lot out there for consumers to digest.”
And it all sounds so confusingly scientific. It helps to understand what an ion is — and why on earth manufacturers are urging us to put them in our hair!
Bio Ionic’s IonTherapy
Positive- and negative-charged ions are molecules that have added or lost an electrical charge, depending on the environment they’re in. We can’t see them, but ions exist in the air we breathe.
You know that amazing feeling you get when you’re breathing fresh air in the mountains or on the beach? The air in these pristine environments is packed with negative ions that are calming and soothing. At the same time, urban living has polluted air that’s full of positive ions — and those aren’t so good for you, or your curly locks.
“The ions in our hair, skin and nails are positively charged,” says Woody Michleb, Artistic Director for Farouk Systems. “If you’re drying your hair with a regular blowdryer it pushes out positive charges, which cause the cuticle covering the hair shaft to open, and this translates to frizzy, dry, hair. Ionic tools, such as irons and blowdryers emit negative charges, which calm down the outer layer of the hair and make the hair appear shinier and more manageable.”
Not everyone is buying into the ion craze. Stylist Ethan Shaw of Anne Kelso Salon in Austin, Texas, says he tested ionic dryers when they first came out several years ago. He was not impressed.
Chi Color Protection System
“We soaked a mannequin head in water, towel dried it, and then dried it as fast as we could with an ionic dryer,” Shaw says. “We then repeated the experiment with a conventional dryer. In our test, the hair looked exactly the same after we dried it with each dryer, and the ionic one actually took a minute longer to dry the hair. It was hard to believe the ionic label was anything other than excellent marketing. I’ve found the same thing with everything else I’ve seen that has the ionic label. I would love to see an ionic shampoo or conditioner that actually does something that others can’t, but I haven’t seen it yet.”
Ironically, Shaw uses an ionic dryer now, but only because it’s hard to find one that isn’t ionic. He says he still can’t see any difference in results, whether the ion switch is on or off.
Meanwhile, Hoot warns that not all ionic dryers are the same, despite their similar claims. For example, he says an ionic generator in the barrel of a blow dryer — the technology Andes uses — is going to produce a greater amount of these charged ions than an ion-charged component in the air stream, such as a front grill or a ring in the barrel.
“Ionic technology, when and where it is good-performing technology, truly provides a benefit. I think ionic is here for quite some time,” Hoot explains.
Devachan’s new DevaSun dryer
So does Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute. Although Torch says he has yet to see ions add any real benefit to the condition of the hair, he acknowledges that ionic blow dryers do speed up drying time.
“The ionic technology in a blow dryer breaks down the water molecules much quicker than a regular blow dryer,” Torch says. “That is what I take advantage of.”
The newest ionic dryer was launched by curl guru Lorraine Massey of New York’s Devachan Salon, which recently introduced the ionic DevaFuser and Sun Dryer.
“You’re not relying on the heat source to dry the hair,” explains Shari Harbinger, a partner at Devachan Salon. “You’re relying on an ionic generator, which has the power to actually evaporate the water molecules so you don’t necessarily have to set the heat so high. By keeping the heat setting lower at 275 and using the ionic technology, you’re not only drying the hair faster but you’re not expanding the outer layer of the hair, the cuticle, from the heat, which would then give the appearance of frizzy, lackluster hair. Instead you’re getting a very closed cuticle and a very shiny curly hair.”
As thermal tools have gotten better, more options are available that are less damaging to the hair, adds Hoot.
“For instance, someone with naturally curly hair can wear it curly one day, blow it straight the next day and wear it curly again the day after that,” Hoot says. “But if you choose to chemically relax your hair, you’re eliminating options and accepting the chemical damage that might come with it.”
And once your hair is severely damaged, Hoot says all the features and benefits of ionic products won’t magically fix it.
“There are a lot of variables that come into play — from the consumer’s ability to use the tool to the general condition of their hair to begin with,” he says.
And although curl expert Christo, of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue salon, is skeptical of some ionic products, he believes in the effectiveness of negatives ions. His Curlisto Ion Treatment is an in-house conditioning treatment packed with negative ions. He still cautions curlies not to expect too much from any one ingredient.
“It’s not a quick fix — it takes time,” Christo says. “It’s not going to instantly turn your hair from being very dry or frizzy to a beautiful, silky hair. The ion treatment jump starts the hair, and then you follow up with a hair masque.”
Some manufacturers are strictly devoted to ionic products, like Nelson Chan, founder of I.S.H. Rescue. He manufactures a line of shampoo and conditioning treatments with negative ions that come from pulverized volcanic rock.
“The negative ions are in the rock and they grind them,” Chan says. “We also use crystalized jojoba so as the ionic process is closing up the cuticle, moisture is put back in the hair. Curly hair is basically the driest hair type, so by closing out the cuticle with ionic products it helps provide a smoother curl.”
Stanley of New York’s Christopher Stanley Salon agrees, although he says he’s found only one ionic product to rave about. He’s tried ionic blow dryers, irons and brushes, and the one that really stood out was the Mebco Pro Spin Ionic brush.
“Whether I’m blowing hair straight or creating soft, loopy curls, it immediately gets rid of frizz and it’s cheap!” Stanley says.”It’s great for blowouts because you don’t have to use a ton of product or go over and over the hair.”
As for the ionic craze, Stanley says it’s becoming “outrageous.”
“Do you really want to spend $300 on a blow dryer?” he says. “I say buy a cheaper hair dryer and go have a cocktail!”
Nappy New Year. And greetings to all of my kinky-kindred spirits!
Thanks for sitting in on my monthly ‘hairepy sessions’ about nappiness and things related last year and for all the positive email about my musings. I also want to send a big “nap dap” to those of you who asked for and purchased my book “Nappyisms !”
My apologies for being unable to respond to everyone in a timely fashion, but I do read your mail and your feedback is sincerely appreciated.
This year, I’ll be adding a few new themes to the mix. Look for “Power Naps,” which are short profiles of nappy notables and “Whatever Nappened To . . .?,” which are updates on people whose nappy hair or ‘nappy-minds’ have invited controversy in the past.
With your help, I’ll write columns that will dabble in a little folklore. Send me your nappy hair traditions, superstitions and old school natural hair-care recipes. I know that you have interesting, funny and even tragic stories to tell! I’ll be looking for them.
While I will be giving you a few things new, I won’t stray from the tried and true. That means that I will continue to devote some columns to answering your questions about natural hair-care. It’s no secret that I endorse embracing African-inspired hairstyles more as a cultural statement than a passing fashion trend. But no matter how I feel intellectually, I also want my nappy tresses to be tight!
With that in mind, I have asked Erin Anthony, a sister from my advisory team of natural hair care professionals to answer a reader’s questions about a hair care dilemma.
Erin is founder of the holistically-spirited Adaru Natural Hair & Braiding Salon based in Indianapolis , Ind. Check out her website. She styled the hair of the models that you will see in the photos!
Tracy of Houston asks: “What’s the best way to really rock bangs with locs? My locs are 5.5 years old, and I trimmed them to just past shoulder length in May. I wanted a different look but nothing extremely drastic. I cut nine locs in the front (one a little too short”> and now have bangs. Now what?
How can I make sure my bangs are banging?? Before the cut, my locs mostly went back or to the side. Now I want them to go in a different direction without having to constantly manipulate them all day. Also how do I get the ends to look more pointy than blunted? “
Erin responds: “Locks are an excellent option because they are extremely versatile, and when cutting them you create yet another styling option. Because locks are often heavy, they tend to consistently fall in the same direction. To change the look of your bangs you can choose from a variety of styling options. For a different direction, have your locks professionally pin-curled, which will allow you to swoop your bangs to the side or even wear them curled, falling gently on your forehead. Pin your remaining locks up in the back to highlight your newly-curled bangs. One of my favorite partners in the industry is Master Loctician Thierry Baptiste. See his website for styling ideas and pictures of pin-curled locs.”
Until next month, stay true to your ‘do!
Our friends the bees produce many items useful for natural hair and body care products, including beeswax and honey, but also including lesser-known ingredients, as well. In fact, bees produce an amazing array of substances that benefit our health. This article explores the holistic health benefits of various bee products and the natural products we make from them.
Beeswax
Beeswax is used to thicken creams, salves, balms, pomades and soap.
Since I wear my curls loced (what some call dread locks”>, I get to hear plenty about the benefits of beeswax for the hair. Some people feel that beeswax is an excellent substance for beginning to lock the hair permanently; indeed it is stiff and very sticky. The problem is that locs should be allowed to form naturally. There needs to be a core of air inside each loc and the hair wraps around this (see my earlier NaturallyCurly.com article Locs: A Journey of Personal Transformation“>. This approach leads to a light, airy loc without foreign matter detracting from its natural beauty—that’s the detraction of the stickiness of beeswax; it attracts lint, dirt and more.
Still, there are great benefits to beeswax—thus natural haircare and body care formulators, even those who create in their own kitchens, like me, frequently use it in moderation. We utilize it because beeswax is a dependable emulsifier. It is easily available from online suppliers, health food stores, and art and craft supply shops. The pastilles (small beads of beeswax”> are especially easy to handle when adding small amount of wax to other botanical ingredients.
Beeswax is also a wonderful stiffening agent when added to hair pomades and hair balms. The issue is proportion. I like to keep the proportion of beeswax low, leaning more heavily on wholesome herbal infusions, oils and bee substances like honey for their beneficial properties instead.
Honey
Honey* is derived from various flowers and herbs. The medicinal content varies with the flower that is its source. You will probably come across the types of substances made by bees listed below when looking over ingredients of botanical shampoos, conditioners, balms, salves or pomades.
Honey is a part of our healing story. Various cultures incorporate it into song, dance, ritual, medicines and economic opportunity. It is also a tasty way to sweeten teas and baked goods allowing us to cut down on sugar consumption. Honey is sensual, it smells wonderful and it is useful in lovemaking rites as an edible body balm. It is also an excellent addition to natural cosmetics, making an instant astringent facial that controls oily skin, a soothing lip balm, and a softening hair conditioner—go easy though (you should dilute one part honey to 3 parts water”>; rinse hair well to avoid residual stickiness! Here are some of the other ways to use honey:
- Topical
- Apply to cracked lips as healing balm.
- Apply to cuts as anti-microbial, antiseptic
- Add to tea or drinks for an energy boost
- Take orally with lemon as a sore throat soother for cold, coughs
- Take when you have a hangover; honey helps with liver oxidation
- Honey is an antioxidant
- Heart benefits are suggested from some tests that indicate increased antioxidants in blood, softened arteries; lower cholesterol
- Apply direct to eyelids to treat inflammation and conjunctivitis
- Apply direct to foot ulcers (diabetic”>; a dressing and post-secondary dressings to keep honey from seeping
- Apply directly to burns for soothing and to speed healing
- Similarly to burns apply to wounds to speed healing and provide a slight antiseptic action
- Used diluted with distilled water as a douche for vaginal yeast infection
- Apply to meat to soften texture while cooking (marinade”> and to fight food borne pathogens. It is thought that honey traps free radicals within meat as it cooks.
Honey is consumed as a stress and anxiety-reducing elixir. Like sugar, it is a mild tranquilizer. It is the preferred additive to enhance relaxing herbal teas like chamomile, catnip and skullcap for that reason.
The chemical constituents of honey are as delicious as the elixir itself:
- Phyto-chemicals
- Antioxidants: flavonoids, ascorbic acid, alkaloids
- Antimicrobials; enzymatic, glucose oxidation reactor
- Boron is an especially important constituent of honey. Boron increases blood levels of estrogen and other compounds that prevent calcium loss and consequential bone demineralization. Boron increases steroids in the blood.
Propolis
Propolis is used by bees to seal the hive. Propolis is a bee medicine, protecting them from bacteria, viruses and fungi; people use it for the same health benefits.
Raw Honey
Royal Honey comes straight from the beehive, and though it may be strained, no heating is involved.
Royal Jelly
As its name suggests royal jelly is fed to the young larvae that eventually grows up to become Queen Bee. Royal jelly contains an antibacterial protein, which Japanese researchers named roylisin. Royalisn is rich in amino acids and is an effective deterrent for staph and strep species of bacteria . Royal jelly shows potential as an anti-tumor substance. In the Japanese research, royal jelly had a significant effect on treating sarcoma cells but no effect on leukemia cells.
Whipped Honey
Whipped honey is a naturally occurring glucose that spontaneously crystallizes; the crystallization is controlled, yielding a creamy honey. Whipped honey is a dense, rich product that makes a wonderful addition to sugar (body”> scrubs, face and hair masks.
Commercial Raw Honey
This is honey with a minimum amount of processing.
A final thought
Our friends the bees produce many helpful substances for us that accentuate natural beauty. There are numerous health benefits to the bee products mentioned, primarily moisturizing various types of curly or wavy hair and cuddling sensitive skin. It is a good idea to respect bees, treating them as true friends rather than foes, giving them their space, while appreciating their numerous gifts.
*It is important to take note of the fact that honey is a serious allergen for some individuals; honey is contraindicated for nursing mothers and babies who are not yet immune to some of the bacteria it contains.
Beeswax and Honey Products
Hair Rules Nourishment Leave in Conditioner
Mop Top Herbal Detangler & Refresher
Darcy’s Botanicals Avocado & Honey Twisting Cream
Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner
MYHoneyChild Honey Nutt Conditoner
MYHoneyChild Honey Nut Scalp Cleanser
Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Honey Butta
And more! Body Shop—Sells many products containing beeswax or honey. This summer I’ve been enjoying the benefits of Honey Moisturizing Shampoo and Honey Moisturizing Conditioner. The two have kept my hair soft and supple even though I swim almost every day in an outdoor pool. I have also found Spa Wisdom Africa Honey Butter to give intense moisturizing and softening to tough skin of the heels, elbows and knees.
Burt’s Bees—a natural body care company that creates many products for the hair, lips and body that contain beeswax or honey. Products are dependable, high quality and widely available although somewhat expensive. Still, I wouldn’t be caught without Honey Lip Balm or Burt’s Bees Lip Balm in my purse, especially not during the windy months of fall and winter.
L’Occitane—Creates a lavishly sensual line called Honey Harvest. Best in the line for combined hair and skin care is Honey Foaming Jelly for Body and Hair. Honey Foaming Jelly is a blend of bee ingredients discussed in this article including propolis, royal jelly and honey. It is designed to soothe and soften the skin and hair, while leaving behind hits of its delightful honey fragrance. The honey comes from Zambia and helps bring economic opportunities to local Zambians.
Murray’s Beeswax—Some like this for starting (dread”> locs; I don’t recommend it for that purpose. It contains petroleum oil (not good for the hair”> and is very sticky which attracts dirt and lint. I have used this successfully on very coarse, tightly curled hair as a pressing oil since it creates a good barrier between hot comb, curling wand or flat iron and the hair. It conducts heat well without sizzling or popping. It can also be used to hold tightly curled hair in place for up-dos.
You know that love-hate relationship we have with fatty foods? Well, the same holds true for glycerin, according to Marsha Coulton, founder of Curl Junkie.
“If you use too much, it can be too heavy and feel like an oil in your hair,” Coulton says. “If you use too little, you don’t get the effect you’re looking for.”
Just as fats (at least the good ones!”> are important in a healthy diet, glycerin is a coveted ingredient when it comes to feeding our curls the moisture they crave. Coulton uses glycerin in both of her curl sprays, but in different proportions. Curl Fuel, which is heavier, has more glycerin. But she cut the glycerin by a third for her Curly Boost spray because too much can weigh down curlies with fine hair.
“I wouldn’t say glycerin is a miracle ingredient because it’s all in the proportions and combinations,” Coulton says, “but it is one of the most useful ingredients.”
You’ll likely see glycerin as a staple in most hair care products and body lotions because it attracts moisture to the skin and the hair shaft. Chaz Dean, founder of Wen by Chaz Dean, says glycerin is one of the best-known humectants.
“I try to get people to embrace their natural curls, and glycerin aids in defining, hydrating and separating the curl.” Dean says. “I am full force on glycerin and anything that is moisturizing and hydrating to the hair because you are then able to embrace what you innately have in your texture.”
Glycerin is a sweet-tasting, colorless, thick liquid that comes from animal or vegetable fats in the soap-making process. Up until the 19th Century, glycerin was mostly produced by the candle-making industry that made candles from animal fats at that time.
In 1889, they figured out how to extract glycerin as a byproduct of soap. In case you didn’t know, soap is made from lye and fats. And it’s these animal and vegetable fats that contain anywhere from seven percent to 13 percent glycerin. Aside from skin and hair care products, you may find glycerin in cough syrup (to enhance the flavor”> and even in some foods (working as a humectant and sweetener”>. Most beauty products use the vegetable source as the emollient.
“I included glycerin in my Luscious Curls line since it helps to hydrate the hair by attracting and retaining moisture,” says renowned stylemaker Frederic Fekkai. “It’s especially great for curly hair types since it helps smooth the hair to reduce frizz and helps keep the flexibility of the curls.”
“We use it mainly for moisture retention in the product and the hair and skin,” adds John Davis, cofounder and director of AG Hair Cosmetics. “With regard to curly hair, hair is comprised of protein, and having more moisture helps to maintain curl in the hair. It helps to encourage curl.”
Despite a perception that glycerin causes hair color to fade, Coulton says it’s fine to use as long as you wait a few days to use it after you color.
“If you apply it to freshly applied hair color, it can cause fading, just like using harsh shampoos or washing the hair at all within 48 hours of coloring can cause fading,” Coulton say.
Because the haircolor may not “set” until a few days after coloring, glycerin may dislodge color particles by making them slippery, allowing them to “escape the shaft.”
“Glycerin in itself does not bleach the hair or make it lighter,” Coulton stressed. “It’s gotten a bum rap because of its ‘color lightening’ effects, but they are no worse than any other conditioner with proteins and oils, which also are not recommended for use soon after coloring. I have colored hair and I listen to the rules that were taught to me in beauty school, and I haven’t had any problems with glycerin.”
Not only does glycerin add a kick to curls, but it also helps to smooth and coat the hair shaft.
“Shampoos can be a little bit dry and the glycerin acts kind of like a buffer,” Coulton explains.
Still, Coulton reminds curlies there are several factors that affect the way your locks are affected by glycerin.
“If you use it and you’re in a super dry climate, it will pull moisture — not from the air, but from your hair — so you have to be careful,” Coulton says. “If you’re going to use it, it needs to be in combination with other moisturizing ingredients — maybe some oils and water — so even if you’re in that dry climate, it doesn’t have a drying effect on your hair.”
Glycerin is one of those ingredients that plays well with others and can also fairly easily be compounded in most products, according to Davis. “Other ingredients may not be as stable or easily formulated into a product,” he says.
Dr. Ali D. Ghannad, vice president of research and development for Farouk Systems agrees. “If I have a product that is thick and I need to put something to decrease the viscosity or thickness, I may use glycerin because it doesn’t hurt my product but helps by being moisturizing,” Ghannad says. “If you use too much, though, your hair becomes tacky or sticky.”
In fact, Coulton cautions curlies not to run out and buy glycerin to tame their tresses.
“Even if you have thick hair, don’t put glycerin on straight,” Coulton says. “You want to look for it in your products, but you’ll have to try different ones to see that the amounts are right for your hair type.”
A Sampling of Products Containing Glycerin
Cleansers
Wen by Chaz Dean Fig Cleansing Conditioner
Curl Junkie Chamomile & Jasmine Conditioning Shampoo
Jessicurl Hair Cleansing Cream
Mop Top Gentle Clarifying Shampoo
MyHoneyChild Jamaica Island Scalp Cleanser
Conditioners
Blended Beauty Curl Quenching Conditioner
Curl Junkie Give ’em Slip! Instant Conditioner
Curl Junkie Intense Protection Leave-In Conditioner
Curl Friends Nourish Rinse-out Conditioner
Miss Jessie’s Curly Buttercreme
MyHoneyChild Coconut Hair Milk
CurlFriends Replenish Leave-in Conditioner
Curly Hair Solutions Silk Leave-in Conditioner
Mixed Chick Leave-in Conditioner
Styling
Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper
Blended Beauty Curly Frizz Pudding
Curl Junkie CoffeeCoco Curl Creme
Cutler Specialist Protectant Treatment Spray
Oyin Shine and Define Styling Serum
Hair Rules Kinky Curling Cream
Hair Rules Wavy Mousse
Hair Rules Hydrating Finishing Cream
One thing I didn’t count on when I moved 700 km across the province was that the sun is noticeably stronger here in southwestern Ontario than it was in Ottawa. Because of this, I’ve been wearing heavier sunscreens more often.
And had resulting breakouts.
Many of the ingredients in the old familiar Noxzema are great for your skin.
Off I went to the drugstore to find something to help me deal with the zits. I scanned a shelf packed with products for teens, products for adults, gels, creams, bars, tubes, bottles and jars and finally my eyes settled on the old familiar blue jar labelled Noxzema. The product was first developed in 1914 by Dr. George Bunting as a sunburn remedy. At the time, it was lighter and gentler on skin than other products on the market and the name came about because a satisfied customer told Dr. Bunting that the product “knocked out” his eczema.
Despite the negative rap that the product gets in some quarters, many of the ingredients used in its composition have antibacterial, antseptic and antimicrobial properties. These include camphor oil, eucalyptus oil, clove oil and menthol (which also reduces itching”>.
One of the things I like best about Noxzema, in addition to the low price, is the fact that it doesn’t strip my skin to the point of feeling bone dry. If this doesn’t agree with you, a mild toner, maybe one from the Noxzema line, would be a good follow-up to the cream cleanser.
After my success with my old standby product, I asked some friends and relatives which products they’ve used for years and wouldn’t part with.
My aunt Elizabeth sells Mary Kay cosmetics now, but she won’t part with two products from Elizabeth Arden — 8 Hour Cream and Blue Grass fragrance. 8 Hour Cream has been sold for over 50 years. It contains petroleum jelly, mineral oil AND lanolin, so it should never be worn on the face, but it’s one of those amazing hand creams that several generations of women have sworn by.
Blue Grass perfume is one of those quiet classics that sells consistently year after year, without promotion. One whiff of it reminds me of my aunt instantly. Today, it would be classed as a “green” fragrance with its citrus and grassy top notes, fading to a floral of Lily of the Valley, Rose Geranium, Hyacinth and Jasmine.
My friend Lili still faithfully uses the Clinique Three-Step Cleansing Solution — bar soap, mild toner and Dramatically Different Lotion. These products, which have been around for almost 40 years, can be used separately, despite their promotion as a complete system.
The soap lathers well, is almost-scent-free and is quite mild. There is an “extra-strength” version as well, designed for acne-prone skin. Lili skips the toner step from time to time, but this product does seem to have changed since we first met 27 years ago to contain little to no alcohol, which is kinder for all skin types.
The Dramatically Different Lotion is a bit light for our mature skin these days, but it is a great light moisturizer for those with acne-prone skin. Remember, just because you have oily skin doesn’t mean you should skip the moisturizer stage. All skin needs moisture.
One other old standby that everyone mentioned was petroleum jelly — aka Vaseline.
First developed in the late 1800s, Vaseline is an oil by-product that is refined into a thick paste. While scientific testing has shown that it has no curative powers itself, the gel is highly effective as a moisture barrier. It is used on burn patients, for example, to prevent germs from getting into their skin. And the rest of us can use it on cracked heels, scaly elbows and chapped lips.
The next time you’re considering a pricey new product, take a step back and consider visiting an old friend instead. You may find something just as effective, at a price your wallet will love.
The delicious aroma of rich, sweet vanilla always lured Miko Branch through the hallways of her grandmother’s home, straight into the kitchen with Miss Jessie.
“It was beautiful, and you could smell it a mile away,” says Branch, owner of Miss Jessie’s Salon and hair care products in Brooklyn, N.Y. “She put a lot of love into her food. It all meant love for us.”
Branch would spend hours watching her grandmother prepare scrumptious desserts at the oversized, wood kitchen table.
“If you wanted to talk to Miss Jessie, you had to talk to her in her kitchen,” Branch says.
These are childhood memories she will never forget.
“You can’t help but think of food references, when you think of Miss Jessie,” Branch says. “When my grandmother whipped anything up, be it cake batter, the consistency and texture of her concoctions made a big difference. She liked it to be rich in consistency. My grandmother had so much influence that the company was named after her.”
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Delicious Concoctions for Hair and Skin Blended Beauty Curly Frizz Pudding Blended Beauty Styling Butter Cream Curl Junkie CoffeeCoco Curl Creme Curl Junkie Banana & Hibiscus Honey Creme Leave-in Conditioiner Long Lovely Locks Curly Custard Long Lovely Locks Ginger Gel-O Mia Simone’s Boutique Locs, Coils, Waves & Curls Moisture Rich Styling Souffle Miss Jessie’s Baby Buttercreme Miss Jessie’s Curly Buttercreme Philip Pelusi Phyto-Life Honey Alfaparf Sublime Sorbet Curl Enhancer L’Oreal Couleur Experte Haircolor 8.2 Iced Meringue Alberto VO5 red Frizz Defense Creme Smoothing Souffle Alterna Cocktail Hemp Seed Styling Souffle Got2b 2 Sexy Voluptuous Volume Root-Lift Souffle Kinky Curly Curling Custard Tigi Catwalk Cat Fight Pliable Pudding Binge Hair Pudding Texturizing Cream Rich Goldwell Trendline Freeze Pudding
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And when Branch decided to launch her own hair-care line two years ago, she couldn’t help but return to the rich, decadent, sweet-scented memories of her grandmother. Inspired by Miss Jessie, Branch cooked up Miss Jessie’s Curly Pudding, Baby Buttercreme, Curly Buttercreme and Curly Meringue.
“Everything you put on your hair, you want that experience to be pleasant. You want to make it inviting,” Branch says. “We strive to make the products yummy in texture and yummy smelling.”
In an effort to appeal to our love of sweets, a growing number of hair care companies are dishing up decadent, sweet-smelling products that sound like they belong more on an irresistible dessert tray than a salon shelf.
Long Lovely Locks whips up a heavenly Curly Custard and and Ginger Gel-O. Blended Beauty serves up Curly Frizz Pudding and Styling Butter Cream. Alaparf refreshes the senses with Sublime Sorbet Curl Enhancer. And the tantalizing list goes on and on.
Why make hair care products sound and smell so scrumptious?
Many of us, especially women, think of a rich, creamy dessert as soothing and comforting, especially if we can enjoy it without the guilt of ever taking a bite, says Marcella Doyle, co-owner of Salon Michael in Chicago, who handles the marketing and business aspects of the salon.
“They feel like they’re pampering themselves with the smell of a dessert,” Doyle explains. “With dessert-like hair care products, you can still get the same kind of personal sensation and satisfaction without having to eat the chocolate chip cookie, literally. And vanilla, from an aromatherapy perspective, is very calming and soothing.”
The sweetness of vanilla, chocolate, almond, and especially honey, are favorite scents for Jamyla, owner of Oyin Handmade, a line of hair-care and body-care products.
In fact, Oyin (which means “honey” in Yoruba — a West African language”>, has been her favorite word since she was a child. After learning about the benefits of honey for the hair and skin, she says the name of her product line flowed naturally.
“Whipped pudding and honey sticks were actually our first products,” Jamyla says. “The name for the pudding was inspired by the texture of the product because it’s soft, creamy and rich. Then, when we started to scent it with a chocolate-and-vanilla fragrance, that took it over the top.”
While delicious names are a draw, Jamyla found that some men think her products are too “girly,” and they didn’t really want to smell like food. She has since added more funky, offbeat product names, like Greg Juice and Grand Poo Bar, to offer an appealing alternative for men.
Still, those sweet-smelling products keep women coming back. Jamyla shared some feedback from her customers.
“They say, ‘When I put burnt sugar on my hair, I get followed around in the store and I just want to eat it!’” Jamyla recalls with a chuckle. “We have a body butter bar called Candy Bar, and they say, ‘When I put the Candy Bar on my skin, I just want to chew on my arm all day!’ I do think people enjoy the names. They think it’s fun.”
It’s not just smaller companies that are getting in on this trend. The creative folks at Alberto VO5 also want to inspire playful fun with delicious names for some of their hair care products, like Alberto VO5’s Whipped Volume and Smoothing Souffle.
“Hair care, and styling in particular, is about expressing yourself and your personality,” says Katherine White, brand manager for VO5 Premium. “We try to do the same thing with our products.”
Alterna, an upscale hair care product company, expresses the luxurious experience of its products through indulgent names as well, such as Hemp Seed Styling Souffle.
“Souffle is not only a luxurious dessert,,” Michael Sean Corby, global creative director for Alterna. “We called it souffle for the way the product functions. For example, when you start a meal, you’re asked if you’d like to order a souffle early because it takes 30 minutes and expands into this big, full delicious thing. Like our souffle, you use a small amount of product and it helps expand the hair shaft and give it the kind of coating found on the exterior of the souffle. You can use a little bit of product, massage it into the cuticle layer and then it expands and doubles or triples the size, just like a souffle.”
Alterna also plans to serve up a new sweet-smelling line of concoctions (including shampoo, conditioner, styling aids and body care products”> in November called “10.” The name is in honor of the company’s first decade in the industry, as well as the 10 greatest advances in hair care. And although the new line may not have a delicious name, the ingredients surely tempt the taste buds, including African cacao (the root of cocoa”>, vanilla musk, and even a touch of lime and basil.
“It gives it a bit of that romantic flavor,” Corby says. “People associate a lot of things with fragrance. So, if it’s like food, they may choose to get a little chocolate in their shampoo as opposed to chocolate that goes to their waistline.”
As for Branch, it’s the sweet smell of vanilla wafting through her grandmother’s kitchen that still lingers in her mind — and in Miss Jessie’s salon.
“There are some smells in our products, like the Baby Buttercreme, that still remind me of a vanilla cake she used to make!” Branch says.
How damaging is chlorine?
Hot fun in the summertime often means your children will want to spend endless hours in the backyard pool. Not only do you have to watch every second of their swim to guard their safety, parents must also guard their children’s hair against an invisible, yet damaging, danger —chlorine.
“It’s hard to get kids to do the right thing, and they swim so much,” says Cozy Friedman, owner of New York’s Cozy Cuts for Kids, which specializes in working with children. “I see my kids in the pool and they go in, they go out, they go in, they go out. I don’t think people realize how damaging chlorine is to the hair.”
Friedman and other stylists warn that a summer of pool parties and swimming lessons can unknowingly turn into a hair-care nightmare. “Chlorine is very damaging to hair, especially to naturally dry textures often found with curly hair,” says Christo, curl expert and Global Artistic Director of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue salon.
“The cuticle of these textures stays open so it is easy for chlorine to penetrate the cortex,” says Christo, whose product line includes Curlisto Aqualizer, a clarifying shampoo, Curlisto Kids Leave-in Conditioner with sunscreen and the Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque.
“Chlorine eats away the cuticle of the hair, which is like the protective outer layer of the hair,” Friedman explains. “That’s why you see such dry, brittle, and damaged hair, much like straw. It weakens the hair so when you brush or comb it, it ends up cracking off which causes what everyone knows as split ends.”
Chlorine compounds are used in most pools as a bleaching agent to prevent and kill algae. One of the problems, of course, is that it also bleaches the hair into a dry haystack. But experts say, in a few easy steps you can rescue your child from tress trauma.
“Even a simple thing like rinsing your hair with fresh water after you swim can go so far in preventing damage. And if you use a moisturizing shampoo, it will protect the hair against the chlorine and create another layer for the chlorine to have to get through,” says Friedman, whose product line includes a Green Apple Swimmer’s Shampoo that contains moisturizing aloe and orange extract that helps remove chlorine.
Many stylists agree that also leaving conditioner in the hair during the summer will help lock in moisture and block harmful chemicals.
“Don’t rinse out all the conditioner in the shower, put a little extra in your hand and work through your hair to add a protective coating,” Friedman adds. “If you can add conditioner in your hair before you swim that will help prevent the chlorine from being absorbed into it.”
Curl guru Lorraine Massey, of New York’s Devachan Salon, has long recommended that curlies leave in a bit of conditioner year-round — and especially during the summer. Her hair-care philosophy frowns upon traditional shampoos, which have detergents she says can hurt more than help curly locks. For a more intense treatment during the summer, Massey suggests applying conditioner to the hair and then wrapping it in a warm towel to help absorb moisture. Massey, which also manufactures a popular line of Devacurl hair care products, plans to introduce a new product next summer that will be especially helpful for swimmers. The moisturizing product will be chock full of botanical extracts and SPF to protect curly locks from pool water.
While chlorine compounds in pool water strip the hair’s natural moisture, those bleaching chemicals aren’t entirely to blame for yet another damaging side effect — when hair turns green! The buildup of hard metals in your pool water, particularly copper, is the real culprit, according to pool expert Alison Osinski, owner of Aquatic Consulting Services in San Diego, Calif. Chlorine can oxidize the copper in pool water, which then attaches to the hair and casts that awful greenish hue.
“The metals could come from your source water or from products you add to your pool water, such as algaecides with a copper base,” Osinski explains. “You should test your pool water and monitor it for metals like copper (which is most common”>, brass, iron and manganese. Read the labels on the products you use in your pool. You can buy a test kit or take a water sample to your local pool store and have them test it for you.”
If it’s too late and your child’s hair is already turning green, there are some immediate steps you can take to neutralize it.
“Right when you get out of the pool and before your hair completely dries, if you don’t have a clarifying shampoo, you can rinse your hair in tomato juice, white vinegar, lemon juice or a paste of crushed aspirin and warm water,” Osinski says. “Any of these will work because they are basically citric acid and will cause the metals to drop out of your hair.”
Once they’re out, keep them out, with continuous conditioning and a little tress-loving care!
Expert Tips
- Immediately after a swim, rinse hair with fresh water, and if possible, use a clarifying shampoo or conditioner.
- Add conditioner before a swim, then continue to spray a leave-in conditioner every time your curly steps in and out of the pool.
- Immediately after a swim, rinse hair with fresh water, and if possible, use a clarifying shampoo or conditioner.
- Wear a bathing cap in the pool.
- Use a wide-toothed comb, instead of a brush, to reduce breakage.
- If you must use a blow dryer, use a cooler setting.
- Test and monitor the hard metals in your pool water.
- Remove damage with a good haircut at the end of the summer.
Suggested products
Fairy Tales Coco Cabana Leave-in Sun Spray
Fairy Tales Energizing Leave-in Conditioner
Fairy Tales Lifeguard Clarifying Shampoo
Blended Cutie Tug Me Not Conditioner
Circle of Friends Maya Papaya Leave-in Conditioner
Circle of Friends Summer Fun Kits with Splish Splash Shampoo
Curlisto Kids Leave-in Conditioner
Curlisto Aqualizer
Fuzzy Duck Detangler & Refresher Spray
Fuzzy Duck Kids’ Conditioner
Fuzzy Duck Gentle Shampoo
Lovely Child Choco-Coco Hair Milk
Lovely Child Coco Mini
So Cozy Apple Swimmer’s Shampoo
So Cozy Sweet Strawberry Conditioner
DevaCurl No Poo
When I was a teenager in the 1970s, North American fashion magazine covers presented an almost uniform sameness month after month, year after year. Christie Brinkley, Cheryl Tiegs, Lauren Hutton, Shelly Hack, Farrah Fawcett… all blonde, blue-eyed and All-American. Even the brunette models had the same sky blue eyes; Jaclyn Smith, anyone?
If you were very lucky, Beverly Johnson would make a rare appearance on the cover of something other than Ebony, or Janice Dickinson could be found on the cover of Paris Vogue.
For those of us with hair that wasn’t blond and who didn’t have blue eyes, there were few women in the public eye who looked like us. And the fashion industry at the time had a ready excuse for it, too — light eyes photograph better than dark ones was the prevailing wisdom.
With the dawn of the age of the “super” model in the late 1980s, it was obvious that the face of the fashion industry was changing. While nowhere near as integrated and eclectic as the populations they served, magazines began to showcase culturally diverse women like Yasmeen Ghauri, Iman, Veronica Webb and Christy Turlington, and replaced the blonde, blue-eyed “All-American Girl” with the brown-eyed brunette, Cindy Crawford.
By this time, I was long past those “formative” years and I carried a secret yearning for blue or green eyes to match the pale, celtic skin and rich auburn hair of my Scots-Irish heritage. But several more years were to pass before technology in the eye care industry was able to make my dream a reality.
In the fall of 1994, I read an article in the Fashion section of The Toronto Star about a local optician who was carrying a new brand of soft contact lenses in colour, including a non-prescription (plano”> version of the product for people who simply wanted to change the colour of their eyes. This optician happened to be located between my apartment building and my office, and on my next pay day, I stopped by his office and plunked down my 50 Canadian dollars to become a green-eyed lady!
It took me a bit of time to learn how to put them in, as I do not wear contacts on a daily basis – I wear glasses with different prescriptions for reading and for distance. And once I did get them in, they weren’t comfortable for more than a couple of hours at a time.
Over the next couple of years, I kept the same pair and wore them only on special occasions. I was scrupulous about cleaning them properly, as anyone who wears contacts on a regular basis should be, and they lasted until I lost track of them in my move from Toronto to Ottawa and didn’t find them again until 1998. At that point, I realized they were probably past their “best before” date, and tossed them out.
It was while researching my column for August 2004 about the makeup colours to suit different eye colours that I thought about buying colour contacts again. I thought it might be a good idea to put those colour theories to the test. But by then, it was almost impossible to buy one pair in colour for occasional use. Almost every contact lens manufacturer offers a six-pack of lenses for about the same price I paid for one pair over 10 years ago.
This summer, I discovered an online company that sells individual pairs of coloured lenses in varieties they call subtle, bold and dramatic. Comfort Lenses also makes theatrical-effects lenses for television, movies and stage productions. Though almost the same price for one pair as a box of the most popular brand, Fresh Look, the Comfort Lenses are supposedly suitable for daily wear for up to three months, so I suspect I will get a couple of years from my “dramatic green” and “bold violet”.
The green is intensely, vivid jade. When I wear them, I am totally startled at how different I look. And while the violet is less shocking in appearance, I still feel “unlike myself” when I look in the mirror. These lenses are as comfortable as the manufacturer claims, however, and I was able to wear my “Elizabeth Taylor eyes” for an entire evening when I went to a Halloween party.
Recently, I got Encore Colour lenses from Singapore in blue and grey. Colour contacts are very popular with Asian women, who regard the lenses as cosmetic items for everyday wear. These seem to be a bit larger than the American-made Comfort Lenses, although Cooper is a well-known manufacturer. I find them a little more difficult to get in my eye, but they are easy to wear and very natural-looking.
Until last fall, colour contact lenses were considered “cosmetic items” in the United States. However, as of November 9, 2005, all contact lenses are classified as “medical devices” by the FDA and you must buy them – even the plain ones – from a reputable eye care professional and have them fitted.
Go ahead! Turn your brown eyes blue… just do it safely!
(That’s me at a Halloween Party last year. The hair is a wig, as my own, unfortunately, has not grown that long – yet!”>
We’ve lived too long in a world drowned in consumerism, with celebrity-marketed hype constantly in our faces and hair. Everyone wants to look the same — cloned cookie cutters with poker straitjacket hair. But I’m now noticing volume and softness is back. Ripples, waves, curls, kinks, naturally straight — and even a little underarm hair — is authenticity sexy. Poker straight will no longer exist, especially with global warming upon us. There seems to be an emphasis on individuality and finding a greater freedom in one’s self. Curly girls and boys, this is our time. We are beyond trends. We are back, and with our curls we’ll stay.
Q: Could you give ideas of what to do with hair that is growing out? I like my curls short or long but hate the thick, unruly ‘Christmas tree’ triangular look while it grows out. Often I give up after months and get a short cut because I can’t stand walking around looking doofy.<br class=”webkit-block-placeholder” />Lorraine: I can certainly try to give you some ideas for when your hair is growing out, but I’m not certain that they are going to help the situation at all. How many times in your life have you been at this point? There is most definitely an awkward stage you go through, but now is the time to actually commit. Zen out and allow your curls to unfurl. When you get to the point where you are about to cut it, or even pull it out, call a ‘Curl-Friend Sponsor’ and let it be. The truth is, gravity is what stops the hair from gaining volume. Add to that shampoo drying out the hair, and factor in the hair’s natural instinct to grab moisture from the atmosphere, and the result is the POOF! You should be cleansing with No-Poo and leave as much conditioner as your thirsty/dehydrated hair needs to feel replenished. Remember: DO NOT DISTURB your hair as it dries. You’ll see!
Q: I love Devacurl products. I am using shampoo Low Poo and One Condition and they are great. I love Angell too. I know Angell gel is for wet hair after conditioning, but I am wondering if I can use Angell on my complete dry hair? Mariagrazia Lorraine: Every time someone uses the word ‘shampoo’ in the salon they are required to donate a dollar into our Hurricane Katrina Relief Fund — our products have no connection to that evil word whatsoever. If you mix half of a bottle of Mister-Right and half of a bottle of AnGel you shall get ‘Mist-er AnGel, a fabulous spray-gel for use on either wet or dry hair.<
br class=”webkit-block-placeholder” />Q: I have a curly medium-length blonde bob. I find blonde hair shows frizz more than dark curly hair. Please tell me if you know of a product that really tames frizz without a stiff or gluey feel to the hair. I like my hair touchably soft. Thanks. Jann.
Lorraine: I disagree that blondes show more frizz, especially if your hair is well-hydrated from within and enhanced with an angelic gel. Angéll is designed for both fine and thick curls — apply less for fine curls and double up for thicker curls. No matter how much Angéll you apply on your hair, it will dry with a cast around it to crystallize the curl and lock it in place. Then when it is completely dry, you scrunch it out and it dissolves to give you that touchably soft feel you desire Jann, if I were you, I’d be generous with the amount of Angéll I use and graze the exposed top area of the hair downwards with Set it Free sprayed onto your hands. Another important point is not to disturb while drying. Poof be gone!
Q: When I was little, my hair was so curly that it was practically in ringlets. But as I grew older, the curl loosened. Now, as a college student, my hair is just wavy. The problem with this is that the underside is almost completely straight while parts of the top are wavy and other parts are not. I still have that course-like curly texture. The bigger problem is that I either have to take tons of time blowdrying with a diffuser or straightening my hair to make it look decent. Otherwise, when I go natural, it looks like I got out of bed and didn’t brush it. I would really like to be able to wear my hair both curly and straight. I want my curly hair back without it looking fake or crunchy. Any advice is appreciated.
Lorraine: Hair is like an unruly child. According to textbooks, what they crave is consistency — a constant approach. Since I started this approach, my hair (as intended by nature”> has been faithful and loyal to me in its frizz-free curl consistency. But it’s slightly different on a day-to-day basis, so I never become bored with my hair. You should give your hair the organic respect it deserves; remind your hair what it really is and what it really wants to do. You, and only you, are the sole custodian of your hair and it will only give you what you give it. Start to undress it! For example: Stop using shampoo to cleanse.Stop using brushes on your locks; it’s like beating a child.Stop blow-frying it.Stop using alcohol and plastic resin based products. Would you put alcohol on a flower? Give your hair three months with this consistent natural responsive approach. Follow the above program religiously and I promise you’ll be there and never want to go back. It’s hair, or there! Having authentically straight hair is a beautiful thing; blow-frying to have straight hair is a fashion faux pas. Take the approach mentioned above to maximize your hair’s potential. Q: I love curly hair but when I try to make my hair more curly, all it gets is very, very wavy. I don’t like the fake-looking curls, and scrunching my hair doesn’t help at all. I know guys like hair with some ‘bounce’ in it. But all my hair gets is poofy and it makes me so frustrated that I end up hating my hair. Please tell me how to bring out the curl in my hair!
Lorraine: Love me, love my curls! I believe that whatever your hair may be — curly or wavy — you’re trying way too hard. It sounds like you may be overscrunching. Constantly touching hair with your hands while it’s drying creates frizz and dissolves the gel too early. The water and gel bearing weight can pull curls to the point of waves. If you’re still using detergents (shampoo”> that cause outward bounds in the hair, I suggest stopping. But you can try this simple approach: If you do not have No-Poo, cleanse with your conditioner only tomorrow morning. Friction on your scalp with your fingers does the job beautifully! Rinse and leave in a sufficient amount. With your hair still saturated lean your head forward and proceed to scrunch upward with your bare hands to remove excess water, then repeat this step with paper towels or a used T-shirt. Once you have removed all the water possible, tilt your head back so your hair is in its natural fall position. Then find where your hair needs height and grab, lift, and clip directly at the scalp. You can let your hair dry naturally, diffuse at a distance, or sit under a hooded dryer. When your hair is completely dry, remove the clips and scrunch upwards to break the cast. Believe me — this will work wonders for you.
NEW YORK, NY — Lorraine Massey, co-partner of the chic Devachan salon, says there’s a curl-volution happening among curlies everywhere.
“Over the last 10 years everyone has been blow-fried,” says Massey, stylist and author of ‘Curly Girl: The Handbook.’ “Women want their freedom,” she says.
It’s that freedom the curl guru is encouraging both women and men to embrace when she launches a national advertising campaign this fall. The theme of the print campaign is Curl-volution, showcasing the beauty of naturally curly locks.
“Why all of a sudden are all these curly girls running around?” Massey asks. “They are the same ones who’ve been in straight jackets and tied to their hairdresser all these years.”
No more, she says. The curly girls who have fought their curls for years are learning to just let it flow.
“From children to men and women of all ethnicities, 65 percent or more of our population has some wave or curl to their hair,” says Shari Harbinger, hair color director of Deva Concepts. “One of the major philosophies of our company is to respect the hair’s natural tendency to wave or curl.”
And now the company is using a national platform to share Massey’s philosophy. On June 26, Massey brought in about a dozen of her clients to become models for a day in a glamorous photo shoot at her Devachan salon in New York City’s SoHo neighborhood. The daylong shoot for the ad campaign consisted of a head-to-toe makeover for everyone — hip hairstyles, glitzy makeup and even wardrobe.
In the spring, DevaCurl launched a national model search on NaturallyCurly.com. But because of the logistics, Massey opted to use some of her Devachan clients for the campaign, some of whom are NaturallyCurly.com readers.
Aside from clients, some of her curly stylists (and even her young son”> joined in the photos that will be splashed across the pages of trade and consumer magazines in September. At the same time Massey will introduce two new products to her DevaCurl line. The first is called B’Leave-in, a leave-in conditioner for added moisture. (Both products will be for sale in CurlMart when they are available”>
“With curls, it’s really all about hydration,” Massey says. “This is a 24- to 48-hour moisture lock that’s filled with organically derived vegetable glycerin that will give the hair added shine.”
The second product to be available this fall is a color-keeper called To Have and To Hold. “It keeps color in the hair longer,” Massey says. “There’s no pigment in it.”
“I like her products because they are all natural,” says Michele Greenberg, a three-year client of Massey’s who now lives in Madison, Wis., but still won’t let anyone else touch her raven curls. It took a year for her to make it back to Manhattan for a haircut. But she didn’t mind waiting. “My hair has never been healthier.” (This trip, Greenberg’s timing was impeccable; she happened to be in town the day of the photo shoot and was selected as one of the models”>
“Our products have been so well received and the demand of the dehydrated and curly clients is so great that we needed to take it to the next level and bring this information to them at a faster pace [through this ad campaign],” Harbinger says.
And it’s not just the products that clients rave about; Massey’s styling technique is also a key element of her success. Devachan assistant Analis Hobal (also a curly girl”> showed me first-hand how it’s done: After cleansing my frizz-prone hair with No-Poo (a zero-lathering cleanser”>, she added One Condition and then rinsed it, leaving some in to hydrate the hair. Instead of towel drying, she leaned my head forward and scrunched my locks with paper towels, to blot the excess water. Analis then evenly sprayed on Set it Free (a new moisture-lock product launched in March to battle frizz”>, scrunched in AnGell (a conditioning gel”>, and strategically placed clips at the crown of my head to add lift.
Never picking up a comb or a brush (she says she doesn’t even own one!”>, she set me under the dryer and minutes later, voila! My wavy curls never had so much definition. No crunchy locks either, just lots of curl in a soft style.
“[Massey] has put an incredible philosophy to work,” says Reina Platt, a 13-year client of Massey’s and a film and television production coordinator in New York City, who became one of the models for a day.
“My hair is so healthy. I’ve learned how to take care of it for life. I feel lucky to have found her. I really don’t have bad hair days – but I used to.”
Jo Newman, an aspiring actress, used to battle bad hair days too — and she says it was affecting her career. But she’s now Massey’s client and even joined in as a model for the Curl-volution campaign. “My acting life got better when I figured out how to deal with my curls,” Newman says with a smile.
I must start by saying thank you for your questions. The more you seek knowledge, the more advanced you’ll be as a highly educated Curly Girl. What worries me at time is my industry; I love my craft, but the industry makes me mad. Why? I still see a lot of Curly Girls trying to be straight, and there’s always a surprised look on their faces when I shout out “Hey, Curly Girl!!” They think nobody can really tell. I think of their denial and then I wonder, is it them in denial of their hair, or is it their beloved hair stylist? I recently spent time at The International Beauty Show; my question was answered. Hairdressers from all over the world were approaching the DevaCurl booth. A few of them would evaluate my hair and insist that I had used a curling iron. “That’s not natural,” a couple of them exclaimed, “it’s too perfect.” I was insulted by their accusation, and made it evident with my reply: “How sad that you think this is not natural. You don’t know what natural hair looks like anymore because you’ve been so busy manufacturing hair and blowfrying us Curly Girls to our hair’s death.” These stylists are essentially imposing on instead of responding to the hair. Our need to complicate things is so rampant, which is precisely why the Curly Girl approach is so radicurl in its simplicity. We as Curly Girls must stand strong in our individual belief in our own hair, relentlessly seeking its truth with Curl knowledge. You don’t need to be frustrated, dry and frizzy anymore. Only then shall we push our hair care professionals to constantly update their data for the Curly Girl, crowned and glorious in her natural habitat.***
Q: I love your book. I finally know how to care and style your my hair. Now at 30 years old, I wear my hair down and I’m trying to grow it long. I find my hair looks better, and it’s easier to style when long. But my question is how do I get rid of the hard, crunchy feeling so the hair can move? Maria
Lorraine: How Do You Solve a Problem like Maria’s? Easy. When hair is wet, apply AnGel. Do not disturb it until it’s dry. Once it’s dry, scrunch it out – the stiff feeling should disappear. The reason why AnGel is more effective than other gels is that it is free of the hidden alcohols and plastic resins other gels commonly include. Remember, this product is SO important because it is in your hair the longest — 24 to 48 hours. Add Set it Free to the AnGel, and you have a long-lasting, frizz taming, conditioning hold.
Q: I have long fine hair that has a medium curl to it. When I let it go curly, it is usually flat on the top with little to no curl, and then it gets curly on the bottom. I end up with a triangle head! How can I add volume and curls to the top of my head? I’ve been trying salt water. Does that do anything? And I hate gel of any kind. I think it looks to crispy when it’s dry. I just want soft natural curls with all over body. Thanks! Jessie.
Lorraine: Jess You CAN Have Soft, Beautiful Curls All Over!Set it Free is our new spray, and a lot of people say it reminds them of the beach. Spray it on already scrunched, wet hair and clip the root to release the curl of its own weight. Our hair is twice its usual weight when it’s wet, so of course it flattens at the root during the drying process. Clips are an easy way to prevent this. Keep them in until your hair is completely dry. Q: I have thick curly/wavy hair and it tends to stick flat to my head. How do I make it look better? I love how you wear your curls and that is how I would like my hair to look. I have to use a ton of hair spray for my hair for my hair not to frizz out. Please help me. Amanda.
Lorraine: Hair Spray? Not the Weigh to Go!Thick hair is heavier so the clip technique should apply to you too, my darling Amanda. But that hair spray has to GO, GO, GO! Hair spray on already-thirsty hair makes it dry beyond belief — the frizz will disappear as soon as the hair spray does. I promise you, frizz is just a curl waiting to happen. Q: I’m into my second week on the ‘Curly Girl’ program and am noticing some flakiness on my scalp. I’m tempted to fall off the no-shampoo wagon and scrub my head with my old shampoo. I’ve resisted thus far and just purchased your products (Chocolate Lust No-Poo and One Condition”>. I’m somewhere between a corkscrew and a Botecelli girl, if that tells you anything. Do you have any suggestions for flakiness? My curls already look better and feel a lot softer, so I don’t want to abandon your program. Thanks for your help! Shannon
Lorraine: Flake Away! After only two weeks, flakiness can be part of the normal adjustment period. Think of your scalp as a wound that is healing from prior use of detergents. The flakiness is your scalp shedding the “scab.” The friction from the motion of your hands breaks up the dry skin and dirt particles, hence the “flakes.” However, it’s possible that you’re not massaging your scalp enough with the No-Poo. Give your head a good massage with the No-Poo, and it will help exfoliate your scalp and rid it of the flakes. Remember, your scalp is your skin and your hair is a fragile and sacred fiber. They have two different needs.
Q: I’m looking for some major help. My name is Emily and I’m 15 years old. When I was 13, I started straightening my hair everyday because it was the fad. But I stopped when I went to high school, hoping I could live with my hair. Now I have tried just about every product possible to define my curls but I have a huge head of hair. I can never wear it down. Nothing is working. I just want to be able to get out of the shower and wear my hair down instead of having a dead heap of hair. Maybe it is my technique, not the products. If you have any suggestions, I would love to hear them. Emily
Lorraine: Curling Out of the Closet…I can almost see and feel your hair by the way you’ve described your precious locks. My curl sense is telling me that you aren’t using enough One Condition (assuming that you are using the DevaCurl line”>. A generous helping is what’s needed in this case. The equation is simple: Dry equals thirsty. My experience with clients that haven’t reached a hydration level to my liking after a period of time is almost always the same. We dissect her hair routine and, lo and behold, she’s being stingy with the Conditioner. Never EVER be stingy with the moisture! Get into the shower and wet your hair thoroughly. Apply, in your case, at least two palmfuls of One Condition and evenly distribute. Leave it in while you go through your shower routine, letting the conditioner sink in. At the end of your shower, massage the scalp with your fingers and gently comb your hands through your hair to individualize your curls and gently releasing any tangles, especially at the nape. Rinse lightly — or you may even want to leave all of it in. Get out of the shower, bend over forward and scrunch your hair upward with paper towel or an old t-shirt to squeeze out extra conditioner (it’s almost like rinsing as you take out a lot of conditioner, except that the hair will grab and hold what it wants to keep – your hair’s natural survival instinct!”>. Flip your hair back gently, and shake your head a little bit to let your curls find their natural formation. Then clip the roots and do not disturb. The moral of the curl story here is “Love me, One Condition me, and leave me the hell alone!”
Q: My name is Elizaveta Diaz and my problem is that I’m completely frustrated with my hair. I have what they call kinky hair. My father was a Cuban Mulatto and my mom is a Caucasian Russian so I guess my hair is in the middle — very curly but very thin. I really have no idea what to do with it. I’ve tried relaxing it with chemicals but it is so thin that it breaks. So for the last eight years, I’ve worn it in a ponytail. My other problem is that I live in Austria and a lot of people here don’t know how to treat my hair. Thank you and I hope you can help me somehow.Lorraine: Tend and See…Curly hair is very fine to begin with. Each beautiful strand is three times more fragile than a strand of cotton, and you know how easily that breaks. Think of your hair as a priceless fabric and touch it with great respect. Don’t rein it back like a harnessed pet by pulling it into an elastic band! It’s no wonder your precious “bab” hasn’t been able to grow. Also, your hairline will begin to recede (traction alopecia”> when hair is constantly yanked back into a ponytail. You, my dear, are the caretaker. I believe that if there are hair follicles then there’s hope, whether curly, kinky, straight, man, woman, dog, rat, underarm… whatever! In order for it to have a longer life span, it must not have weed killers washing the naturalness away. You simply must stop using detergents (99% of shampoos on the market have them”>. Also, my suspicion tells me that those straighteners (lyes – or is it ‘lies’?”> still reside in your hair. Be patient, my curl love, and release the rubber band – set it free!! Use the same method as Shannon (#5″> and be generous with the One Condition. Olive oil treatments may help, too. For now, before you go to bed, lay a towel over your pillow and leave the One Condition in your hair overnight. Remember: Be good to your hair, accept it for what it is, keep it hyper-hydrated and LOVE it. You will see.
Q: I recently read your book and loved it. I am a wavy girl and I’m trying to grow my hair out to a chin-length bob. I have given up shampoo (going on three weeks”>, but I can’t get my waves to look good. My hair looks messy with not-defined curls. I have to diffuse it dry because it saves time and it also gives my hair volume and curl definition. My dream is to come to New York for an appointment, but until then, can you give me some advice. — Marcene TesmerLorraine: Where there’s a Wave, There’s a Curl. When anyone asks me a question, I try to listen very carefully. You say you can’t get your waves to look good. They’re messy, without defined curls. You say that the diffuser gives your volume and curl definition. It sounds to me like you’re all over the place with your approach. Your hair is going through some weird periods as it’s growing, and the unfurling of movement has not yet begun. As you touch it with your hands when diffusing, you’re messing it up and breaking the gel cast that helps to crystallize the curl formation. Try this method: Put your diffuser in a towel rack (so it’s hands free”> and rotate your head around the diffused air. This way you can achieve height at the root and each curl can dry separated and undisturbed. I hope to see you in New York — it doesn’t have to be a dream!
Q: I was wondering how you actually style your own hair. Do you blow it dry with a diffuser or do you air dry it? Does the heat from the hairdryer seal in the moisture, or does it cause more dryness? Lorraine: Love it and Leave it Alone!I actually do not do very much to my hair these days — the less I do, the better it is. On special occasions, I’ve tried a little harder, but it’s never quite the way it is when I don’t fuss. I do, however, always clip my roots — even on days I don’t completely wet my hair. I put a little bit of Angéll on the clip and position it at the root, then spray with Set It Free or Mist-er Right. My secret to drying my hair at times is my car — the heater gives a perfect dry heat with no blow.Q: Do you have any new natural mixtures for dry ends? Also, how do you feel about oils as a hair treatment? Do you think it helps or exacerbates dryness? Some people I talk to think mayonnaise is a wonder treatment. Lorraine: C’oil!I’m obsessed with oils, especially olive oils. If they can go into my body, then they can go onto my hair. Things thrive in moist environments — it can not exacerbate dryness unless it’s not a pure oil. In Roman times, that’s all they used! Putting it on your body before a bath seals moisture into the skin… it does the same for your hair. With regards to mayonnaise, it’s all the disodium EPTA that worries me. But you can make your own! Whip raw eggs with some olive oil, and then add your favorite essence or even some lemon juice, and you have your very own may’oil! The reason I don’t have a treatment in my product line is that I believe if you’re really looking after your locks DAILY (including color-treated hair”> you don’t need treatments to begin with. But when you’re starting out, olive oil is my absolute fave.
Nature at its best
When I think of curls, I think of Zen Philosophy. Zen mind. Beginners mind. Zen everyday. A new day. That’s when you’re accepting that everyday with your curls is a new day. And instead of being intimidated, mad, or sad with them, your attitude towards them should be: ‘OK then, what’s it going to be today? Yes, maybe they could’ve, should’ve, would’ve been better, but I love them anyway and any way.’
Lorraine Massey: At the time the book was written, my research on silicones was very thorough. As with most things, there are always advancements and new developments. Our incredible chemist introduced Amodimethicone to me like this: Most silicones disturb or pull the follicle, causing hair to lose its own natural color. Amodimethicone is found to protect the natural color of hair. So, although it’s a silicone, it’s a long-distance cousin to the bad ones. Having new information like this to share is why there will be a follow-up book to Curly Girl. Q: I am curious if you are planning to make a Deep Treatment product, or any other products? We are product junkies here. What about another book?– Jenny Lorraine Massey: One Condition is as deep as you can get. If you add heat or steam, it makes a truly deeply One Condition.Future products: include ‘Bee Leave-In,’ a leave in conditooner, and ‘Set It Free,’ a finishing spray.
Yes, there will be a follow-up book to Curly Girl.
Q: How often do you think a deep treatment should be done? My hair tends to be a bit dry, especially in the winter, so I have been doing a moisturizing deep treatment once a week and a protein treatment once per month. My hair is very curly (3B, I think”> but thin and fine. Should I do an apple-cider vinegar rinse, lemon-aid, or regular condition cleanse before doing a deep treatment? — IroLorraine Massey: I don’t believe in protein. It makes the hair feel dryer. Are you sure you’re putting in enough conditioner? If you are using enough, that IS deep conditioning. Q: If I decide to color my hair, should I do a treatment before or after coloring? Or should I do a protein treatment before and a moisturizing treatment after? I have never colored my hair because I was always afraid that it would damage it too much. Now that my hair is in much better condition (thanks to the Curly Girl routine!”> I am tempted to try it.
Lorraine Massey: You’ve got the idea. Once you treat your hair well, (daily, weekly”> the pavement is a moist one and the hair becomes pliable and the least damage is imposed upon the hair. The “treatment” to do before coloring is to be using No-Poo and One Condition. If you are true to a shampoo free routine and your moisture has been recovered, you do not need protein.
Q: The no shampoo routine has worked fabulously for the summer months but this winter my hair is flat and dull. Do I need to use more conditioner or less this season. — Elleces
Lorraine Massey: Less. Why? Because there’s less humidity. For a humidity boost, mix AnGel and Mist-er Right. Q: I have heard that you give the OK to other shampoo free method compatible brands of products, such as some from Nexxus and Nioxin, I believe. If so, what are some specific conditioners, cleansers and gels (besides the Deva line”> that might be worth for us product junkies to check out? — Cindy Lorraine Massey: I’m sorry to disappoint you. I, like you, have been searching all my life for what I have and how I feel about my hair. Right now it’s the first time it finally feels right. I could safely say I’m committed to being happy and my hair is a hundred times better now than in the pictures in my book! DevaCurl wasn’t out then. I’m sorry I can’t recommend anything unless I believe in it. Q: Angell seems to be too light for some of us 3-4 type hair. Any chances of creating a gel with more hold in the future?
Lorraine Massey: Use more. It works on most 3-4 types, but you must be honest with the rest of the CG routine.
Q: My hair is very curly 3b/c? Does doing the CG routine make it curlier? Lorraine Massey: It makes it what it is, not what it’s not. My curls surprise me every single day. My responsibility to them is to keep them hydrated and love ’em and leave ’em (alone”>. Have a Curly New Year!
