Search Results: Erica Douglas
The Science Behind Your Hair Thickness
First, let’s clarify the difference between hair density and hair width.- Hair density measures the number of hairs in a given area of the scalp
- Hair width measures the diameter of each individual hair strand
Hair cannot grow or expand to become any thicker… It’s biologically impossible
The thickness of a hair strand is ultimately determined by the diameter of the follicle. Once the hair has protruded from the follicle, the hair cannot grow or expand to become any thicker. It’s biologically impossible to do so because once the hair is out of the follicle, it’s a wrap – the hair is dead. The follicle is the hidden gateway in the dermis layer of the skin that produces the visible hair shaft that we are so obsessed with. At the very base of this follicle lives the papilla, the heart of hair formation, where blood vessels supply the nutrients to the cells that are naturally manipulated into strands of hair. This process is extremely important to the future outcome of the hair because the cells that are absorbing these vital nutrients contribute to the formation of the protein structure of the hair. Maximizing the nourishment to these cells helps to maximize the strength and durability of the protein matrix.
Before these cells become what we visibly know as hair, they must first take a journey through many layers of the follicle. It is during the course of this journey where the hair strand thickness is determined. As hair is pushed through the follicular layers, it undergoes a process called keratinization.
Keratinization: Where It All Happens
Keratinization is the process that occurs in which cells are hardened to form the protein matrix that produces the rigid structure of the hair shaft. It is during this hardening of the cells where the hair starts to take the shape of the physical boundaries of the follicle.
As the hair shaft hardens, it creates three layers: the cuticle (the outer most layer”>, the cortex (the middle layer”>, and the medulla (the core layer”>. The cortex primarily consists of rope-like proteins, such as keratin, and contributes to the bulk of hair thickness and inner strength. The cuticle is a thinner layer of protective covering to the cortex. The cuticle layer is made up of sheaths of cells (much like shingles on a roof”> that overlap and are attached to the cortex at its base. The average human hair has seven to ten cuticle layers. Each cuticle layer is approximately 0.5 micrometers thick (1 micrometer = 0.0001 centimeter”>. The medulla is the thinnest layer. It is so small that it is often difficult to measure, and sometimes nonexistent in certain parts of the shaft.
The Point of No Return (or Thickening”>
Once these three layers have hardened to form the hair shaft, this is the thickest your hair will ever be. I hate to say it, but the physical hair strand itself will progressively thin as it grows out of the scalp due to normal weathering from daily hair maintenance and exposure to the elements. As we comb and style our hair, we inevitably cause some level of damage to this cuticle layer, gradually chipping away at the surface. This is why you will often notice that your hair is thicker at the root than it is at the tip, because the hair at the tip has suffered through years of damage from daily hair maintenance. Of course you can always limit the damage the hair is subjected to by practicing healthy hair maintenance techniques and utilizing products that reduce physical damage, but you will never eliminate it.
The Truth Behind Thickening Hair Products
Now that you have been officially schooled on the science of hair thickness, I assume that you understand why it is biologically impossible for the physical hair strand to become thicker after it has emerged from the scalp. Therefore, it should make sense that products applied directly to the hair that promise to increase the thickness can only deliver the illusion of actual hair thickness. In order to physically grow thicker strands of hair, you would have to address the problem at the root (pun intended”>, but please understand there is nothing wrong with the illusion of thickness! We live in a world of instant gratification, so we often want results now. Lucky for us, products that provide these illusions of thickness can help us achieve many of our hair goals.
Castor Oil
One of the currently trending ingredients used in products that promise thicker hair is castor oil. There are a number of testimonials on the blogs that claim this method has achieved thicker hair. However, there is no scientific basis for these claims. After perusing through some of pictures, I believe that thickness could be misconstrued with hair density, as defined earlier. Improved hair density due to a castor oil treatment could be attributed to the lubricating of the scalp with an oil known to have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which can help clear up bacterial infested follicles. This can most likely be achieved with other oils such as rosemary or tea tree oil. In addition, it is often encouraged to lightly massage the oil into the scalp. A scalp massage alone could possibly stimulate blood circulation, which may help the flow of nutrients in the papilla. In this case, results would not be limited to the use of castor oil, but any product associated with a scalp massage or scrub. In my opinion, this all comes down to a personal preference.
DIY Castor Oil Experiment
If you truly want to see if castor oil makes a difference, use castor oil on one side of the scalp and a different oil on the opposite side where there is similar hair growth. Apply each oil using the same technique and monitor the results over time. Regardless of whether there is scientific proof or not, applying castor oil to the hair and scalp will not cause any adverse effects, so it’s at least worth a shot.
Biotin
Another popular ingredient attributed to thickening hair is biotin. What is biotin exactly? Biotin is a water-soluble vitamin found in the vitamin B complex that acts as a coenzyme to produce fatty acids and metabolize amino acids, which form proteins. It is naturally found in foods such as egg yolks, soybeans, nuts, and milk. Also, the body naturally produces biotin, which makes it extremely hard to have a biotin deficiency. Biotin is most commonly associated with ingestible hair and nail supplements. However, the scientific evidence available that supports biotin as an effective growth and thickness enhancer is weak. In addition, most experts believe that biotin cannot be easily absorbed through the skin due to the size of the molecule. Therefore, topical treatments are also thought to be ineffective.
What You Can Do to Thicken Your Hair
What is proven to enhance healthy growth and thicker hair are the following:
1. A healthy, well balanced diet
The nutrients from your body are a direct source for protein formation of hair strands. If you do believe in the power of biotin to help stimulate growth and thickness, then your best bet is to use it as a dietary supplement rather than a topical treatment because it will be introduced directly into the blood stream. Although formulations can leverage other chemicals to bind biotin to the surface of the hair cuticle, I believe that if there is any truth in the effects of biotin, it would be most effective internally.
2. Increase blood circulation
This can be achieved through physical stimulation of the scalp or exercise.
3. A clean scalp
Maintaining a clean scalp by removing dirt and debris from the follicular cavity is ideal for growing healthy, thick hair. Incorporating anti-dandruff shampoos or scalp cleansers periodically into your regimen will help to ensure that anything clogging the follicles that could possibly constrain the diameter of the hair is extracted. If you believe you have a more severe medical issue, you should see a doctor who may prescribe medicated solutions.Ultimately, we are limited by the boundaries of genetics to achieve a certain level of thickness. Also, as we mature, the follicular tunnel naturally becomes narrower, which in turn produces thinner strands of hair. We can always enhance thickness through the illusions of topical products, or add faux hairpieces to add volume. But if you truly want to achieve your maximum hair strand thickness, then I suggest that you start the process internally, at the root.
Source: [1] Randy Schueller and Perry Romanowski, “Inside the Hair: an Advanced Hair Biology Model,” in Hair Care: From Physiology to Formulation, ed. Angela C. Kozlowski (Carol Stream, IL: Allured Publishing Corporation, 2008″>, 72.
[1] Ibid., 73.If you have more questions about natural oils for the hair, visit me at SisterScientist.com to keep the conversation going. Also, you can follow me on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.
Erica Douglas, better known as Sister Scientist, is a formulating cosmetic chemist who earned her degree in Chemical Engineering from Stanford University. She has dedicated her career to developing quality and innovative cosmetic products, and has been the scientific mind behind brands such as ORS Olive Oil, Curls Unleashed, and HAIRepair. She is currently the Founder/CEO of mSEED group, a product development, manufacturing, and business consulting company that specializes in implementing brand innovation and growth strategies for new and emerging brands in the beauty space.
It is commonly said that you can’t judge a book by its cover and this also applies to hair products. One misconception that I often hear is the consumer’s correlation between product consistency with overall effectiveness of the product providing moisture and slip to the hair. However, consistency (or viscosity which is the technical term”> is only one of many factors that contribute to the effectiveness of a product. The consistency of a product is commonly used to improve the delivery of a product or to help provide weight to the hair mold it into the shape or style that the user is attempting to achieve. Although emulsifiers and thickeners used to thicken products are often great conditioning agents, they are not necessarily the primary conditioning agents in the formula.
Although emulsifiers and thickeners used to thicken products are often great conditioning agents, they are not necessarily the primary conditioning agents in the formula.
What’s really happening with thick products?
Many ingredients lay on top of the hair fiber to help smooth the cuticles to lay flatter, which attributes to the hair feeling smoother, softer, and looking shinier. Thicker products commonly have ingredients that serve this function, but some of the best conditioning polymers that provide the ideal tactile feel of the hair do not drastically change the consistency of a product and can be found in thinner products such as conditioners and foams. We often associate a product’s effectiveness by determining if the product absorbs into the hair or “penetrates” the cuticle layer, but the truth is that the molecular size of most ingredients is too large to bypass the openings on the cuticle layer. Don’t be alarmed. This is not necessarily a bad thing because ingredients that are substantive to the outer portion of hair fiber are commonly what provide the slip and softness that consumers often associate with moisture.
Confusing softness for moisture
Here’s a common misconception that most consumers don’t realize…scientifically the only ingredient that can add moisture to the hair is water, whether it be in liquid or vapor form. As consumers, we often confuse moisture with softness or lubricity. Due to the fact that this is a common and universally accepted concept in the industry, brands often promote and make claims around products being more moisturizing even though what the consumer is feeling may not technically be considered moisture.
scientifically the only ingredient that can add moisture to the hair is water
Moisture is still an important variable in maintaining healthy hair, but the trick is to infuse as much moisture in the hair and seal it in using non-penetrable ingredients that are light enough to not weigh the hair down, but substantive enough to last for long periods of time to provide the softness we crave.
Why thickness doesn’t guarantee effective detangling
The pH of a product is also an extremely important variable in product formulations because the pH of the hair can alter the permeability level of the cuticle layer. An easy way to explain pH is a measure of the level of acidity or alkalinity in an aqueous solution. The pH scale runs from 1 – 14, with 7 being the neutral point. Therefore, anything under 7 is considered acidic and anything above 7 is considered alkaline. In acidic conditions, the hair cuticle layer constricts causing the cuticle scales to close tighter, making the hair smoother, less permeability, and easier to detangle, because the strands have lesser friction with a closed cuticle. In alkaline conditions, the hair swells and permeability is increased due to the cuticles expanding or “lifting” creating more space for molecules to penetrate between the cuticle layers into the cortex. The average pH of healthy hair is approximately 4.5 – 5.5, making hair slightly acidic. Therefore, products with higher pH levels (including water which has a pH of 7″> can cause the hair to swell causing this effect. Conditioners are products that often have a lower pH (an average of 4 – 5″> which help the cuticle layer to close back after being exposed to higher pH conditions.
Read more: Why Your Moisturizer Doesn’t Work
Thickness doesn’t guarantee penetration
The molecular weight (MW”> of an ingredient varies and determines its size. The larger the MW, the less likely it is able to penetrate the cuticle later. The opening on the cuticle layer varies by individual, but in its resting state only allows for molecules smaller than 10 Daltons to penetrate. In a swollen state after hair has been exposed to very high pH conditions, molecules as large as approximately 500 Daltons may be able to penetrate. To provide some context, one water molecule is approximately 180 Daltons. There are very few ingredients that can penetrate the cuticle layer, which is why it is critical to formulate with materials that are highly substantive to the hair fiber to help lock moisture.
As you can see, there are a number of scientific variables happening at a microscopic level that contribute to how a product performs. As consumers, we can easily start to translate common product experiences into what we perceive to be “product laws,” but this can handicap us from being open to experiencing unconventional products that may deliver the same or better results using different methods. There are always advances in cosmetic science and the ability to combine new and novel ingredients together to perform in unique ways. Therefore, it is important to keep an open mind when trying new products because a new combination of ingredients that may look and feel different from the norm could be easily become your new favorite product!
Thin, Moisture-Rich Products
These products may not feel thick, but in our experience they are just as moisturizing as your thicker formulas.
- SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Leave-in Conditioner
- Creme of Nature Argan Oil Perfect 7 Leave-in Treatment
- Karen’s Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia Leave-in Conditioner
- Yes to Cucumber Color Protection Conditioner
- ApHogee Curlific Moisture Rich Leave-in Conditioner
- Curl Junkie Curl Assurance Smoothing Lotion
- Koils by Nature Moisturizing Shealoe Leave-in Conditioner
Do you typically choose products based on thickness?
Why has the naturally curly consumer been programmed to avoid the no-no ingredients like sulfates, silicones, parabens, and mineral oil, while other consumers seem unbothered? It seems like one blog post can turn any ingredient into public enemy #1 in a matter of days. I support consumers educating themselves about the products they use and consume, but it is important to consult reliable and fact-based information to make informed decisions. I believe it is part of my responsibility as a cosmetic chemist to present consumers with more fact-based knowledge and allow her to choose the path that makes sense for her lifestyle.
What do parabens do?
In that spirit, let’s talk about the nasty p word…Parabens. Imagine dipping your hands in your jar of leave-in conditioner and pulling out green, fury objects. Not a pretty picture right? Parabens are chemicals that prevent microorganisms and fungi from growing in our favorite products. They are typically used anywhere from 0.01 – 0.3% by weight in a product formulation. They most commonly are identified as methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butylparaben on the product ingredient panel. However, parabens can also be used to preserve other ingredients that are commonly found in consumer products. This means it may not be listed at all on the ingredient panel because it is technically not an intentional ingredient of the final product, and would most likely be at a low percentage in the final formulation.
Parabens are not the only preservatives that can prevent fury mold from appearing in your product jars, but they are considered to be some of the most cost effective, broad-spectrum preservatives approved for use in consumer goods. Read the back…approved for consumer goods. This means that parabens are also used in our food, skin care, and pharmaceutical products. Surprised? You have spent all of this time avoiding parabens in your hair products, when you could easily be putting them on your skin or in your mouth. The irony.
The link to breast cancer
In 2004, the Journal of Applied Toxicology was the first to report the appearance of parabens in breast cancer tumors. Researchers from the University of Reading in United Kingdom found that nearly 99% of cancerous breast tumors had evidence of some form of parabens. On top of that, another study in Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology reported that parabens have the ability to impersonate estrogen, forcing the body to believe that it has high levels of the hormone, which may increase the risk for breast cancer. Parabens have also been associated with early onset of puberty in girls and low sperm count in men, due to the aggregation of this estrogen-like chemical in the body. There is an entire catalogue of these types of studies at Cornell University through its Breast Cancer and Environmental Factors program. These studies alone have painted parabens to be the evil houseguest that won’t leave after dinner. However, there’s still the question of who invited them?
Most experts agree that more research is needed to better understand whether parabens are truly a catalyst to breast cancer.
Due to the fact that parabens are used universally, it has not been determined how these parabens are reaching these breast tumors. Are we absorbing them through our skin? Are we digesting them? Furthermore, to date, studies have been able to show strong epidemiological evidence that the parabens are the cause of cancer, especially since some of these same parabens have been found in normal, healthy breast tissue. Most experts agree that more research is needed to better understand whether parabens are truly a catalyst to breast cancer.
What do they do to your hair?
What I can tell you is that the effect of parabens on the hair is insignificant, especially at the low levels that they are used at in various beauty products. They do not cause buildup or breakage, and rinse out fairly easy. The reason why parabens are avoided like the plague is because of the alleged health problems they can cause through the chemical being absorbed through the skin. If this is indeed the case, why aren’t we crucifying hand soaps, deodorants, and body lotion in the same way that we condemn our hair products? Well, some are, which is a reason why some people are now shopping at Whole Foods. Only concerned about hair products? Maybe you should take all of this into consideration the next time you put your hands in soapy water or even wash your clothes.
Do you avoid parabens in your hair and beauty products?
As a cosmetic chemist, it is often hard to hear blanket generalizations about ingredients that are often labeled as no-no ingredients. The rationale behind avoiding certain key ingredient words is a bit complicated and not as simple as “good” or “bad.” Actually, it is a lot more complicated. The miseducation of the naturalista has led to the ultimate fear of certain ingredients for what sometimes seem to be pretty irrational reasons from a scientific perspective. There is truth to a lot of what you hear, but a number of these generalizations are not 100% true; rather, some of these ingredients can do some good when intelligently formulated and used in moderation.
The Sulfate Stereotype
Here is a good example: sulfates. They are like the ugly stepchild of the natural hair community. Sometimes, I do feel bad for them because they have all been stereotyped and labeled as dangerous, drying, and cancer causing. I realize that there are studies that prove a number of these things to be true; however, this is the equivalent of making the statement “All Republicans are rich.” It is essentially a stereotype that may hold true for some ingredients that have been designated as a sulfate, but it is not all-inclusive.
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS”> and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES”> are known to be some of the harshest surfactants due to their potential to be drying to the skin and hair. However, the word sulfate is just a chemical designation for the chemical structure SO42-. This structure by itself is not what makes sulfates scary; it is the chemical process called sulfation that treats an alcohol with sulfur trioxide gas, leaving the newly formed alcohol sulfuric acid not stable due to sulfate’s negative charge, potentially leaving behind traces of dioxane (an odorless ether liquid that can be irritating to the eyes and respiratory system”>.
A number of products claim that they contain “oil derived” surfactants. Although this may be true, it ultimately does not matter whether the source of the alcohol is from a natural source or not, it is the sulfation process that makes the surfactant potentially harmful. SLES undergoes the same sulfation process, but the only difference is that it is first ethoxylated to reduce the irritancy factor of the sulfation process; however, it too can still leave behind traces of dioxane.
It ultimately does not matter whether the source of the alcohol is from a natural source or not, it is the sulfation process that makes the surfactant potentially harmful.
Surfactants are amazing compounds that we could not live without. We use them in hand soap, laundry detergent, and shampoos, but what you often do not hear about are the other types of surfactants that are in other products like conditioners and styling creams. These types of surfactants are made through different chemical reactions that are not as unstable as the process behind SLS and SLES. There are four categories of surfactants and a surfactant’s designation is determined by the type of charge on the polar end of the molecule:
Anionic surfactants
Anionic surfactants have a negative charge on its polar head. These surfactants are typically used in shampoos because the negative charge of the surfactant repels the negative charge that exists on the surface of the hair while forming micelles (or a bubble-like structures”> around the dirt, removing it from the surface. This process often has the ability to raise the cuticle slightly. Common surfactants in this category are SLS, SLES, and sulfosucciantes to name a few.
Nonionic surfactants
Nonionic surfactants have no charge on the molecule. These types of surfactants are not ideal for cleansing, but are used primarily to modify the level of foam and aid in solubility. Cocamide MEA and coco glucoside are examples of this type of surfactant.
Amphoteric (or zwitterionic”> surfactants
Amphoteric (or zwitterionic”> surfactants are the mildest of the surfactant categories. They have positively and negatively charge groups that help to reduce the irritancy of other surfactants in a formulation. The most common surfactants that fall under this category are called betaines, and are often used in baby or no-tear shampoos.
Cationic surfactants
Cationic surfactants on the other hand are positively charged and have the ability to bind to the negatively charged outer layer of the hair. These surfactants are most commonly used in conditioners and serve as great detangling and softening agents. Some of the more common cationic surfactants are monofunctional cationic compounds such as cetrimonium chloride or quaternary ammonium compounds such as dicetyldimonium chloride and behentrimoium methosulfate (BTMS”>.
Behentrimonium methosulfate
Behentrimonium methosulfate is an example of an quaternary ammonium ingredient that contains the sulfate compound (SO42-“>, but due to it being a cationic surfactant, the chemical process to produce this ingredient is less irritating and creates a more neutral/stable compound. As a matter of fact, this particular ingredient has the ability to impart some great conditioning properties to the hair by increasing slip and aiding in closing the cuticle, due to its cationic nature. This is just one example of a no-no ingredient that has some beneficial attributes, when used in the right context.
You have to admit, it makes you wonder what other ingredients have you generalized and judged prematurely without having all the facts.
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Source
Sulfonation and Sulfation Processes, Norman C. Foster, Ph.D., P.E. The Chemithon Corporation, 1997.
Why your hair looks so good wet
Hair is the most pliable when it is wet due to the water entering the cortex of the hair and weakening hydrogen and salt bonds that attribute to approximately 30% of hair’s strength. Hydrogen bonds contribute to the structural backbone that helps to hold together the protein matrix hair, which ultimately determines its geometric shape. When these bonds are readily broken with water, the molecules that were once attracted to the solid protein structure become more attracted to the hydrogen in the water molecules, weakening the protein structure of the hair. Be careful! This is the reason hair is most sensitive and prone to breakage while it is wet. As the hair absorbs more water, the hair becomes heavier and the protein structure becomes more “fluid,” creating elongated curls! This is why so many curl obsessed fanatics claim to love their curls the most when their hair is drenching wet.
Then you get out of the shower…
Then…you walk out of the shower and the dream slowly fades. Gradually each strand of hair starts to take on a life of its own and you go from having curls like Tracee Ellis Ross to a fuzz ball looking situation. Why is this? Well we must turn back to those pesky hydrogen bonds. As water evaporates from the strands, more hydrogen bonds are readily available to lock back in place with the protein matrix of the hair and the hair regains its rigidity.
It is like musical chairs. The hydrogen bonds just stop and bond to wherever they can as quickly as possible, which usually leads to frizz
It is like musical chairs. The hydrogen bonds just stop and bond to wherever they can as quickly as possible, which usually leads to frizz city if the strands are not being held in place. This is where alignment comes into play.
How to tame frizz
How do you eliminate those rogue strands of hair that are ultimately the culprits of frizz? One of the biggest secrets to eliminating frizz is to focus on curl alignment.
Tools
Every strand of hair has its own geometric pattern, but by using curl defining products we have the ability help manipulate the curl pattern of the strands using our fingers, comb, rods, etc. to ensure that every twist and coil from one strand to the next align to create beautiful, frizz free curls.Products
Relying on the fixative properties in these products help the alignment of the strands to stay in place.Technique
And do not simply rub product onto a huge patch of hair, take the time to carefully pull product through smaller sections to better align the strands, further defining and training the hair to stay where you want it to stay (e.g. shingling and the rake and smooth“>. This way, as hydrogen bonds start to form as the hair dries, they lock the hair in alignment with the surrounding strands of hair, leading to fewer frizzes.Oil
Also, sealing the hair with oil based products or natural butters can help to further lock the hair in place by preventing moisture/humidity from disturbing the careful formed curls.The strand test
As stated earlier, every strand of hair has its own curl geometry that desperately tries to return to its natural state whenever possible. Knowing the geometrical shape of your hair will help you to understand what you need to do to achieve the shape that you want. Take a strand of your hair and drop it into a glass of water. Look closely at the strand to understand what your natural curl pattern is. This exercise will allow you to see how tight or loose your curl pattern is, and whether your curls have more of an S- or Z-shape. For example, the only way to turn a Z-shaped curl into an S-shaped curl is through the mechanical manipulation of curl using rods or manual twists (i.e. twist-out or braid-out”>. Without a little extra help, the Z-shape hair will always return to back to its natural shape, especially when moisture is re-introduced to the hair.
But… shrinkage
You have now achieved your perfect curl! But before you can step out to show off your new, vivacious curls, you start to experience the next struggle…shrinkage. Why are our curls always trying to defy gravity? This relates back to the hair always seeking to return to its natural geometric shape, especially if your hair is extremely elastic. (Elasticity: the ability for your hair to return to its natural resting state.”> In order to stretch the curl beyond its natural resting state, you have to manipulate the curl using weight or force. Think of your favorite headband or elastic hair tie. It is the perfect length for the first few weeks, but after stretching it over your head and around your hair so many times, it starts to elongate, losing its natural shape. The hair is very similar.
In order to stretch the curl beyond its natural resting state, you have to manipulate the curl using weight or force.
You want to exert enough force or apply enough weight on the curls to achieve more length without stretching it beyond the point of no return. This can be done a few different ways:
- reshaping the curls with tools like curlers or rods, or a twist-out
- stretching the natural curls by gentling pulling the hair from the root using a headband or scarf (i.e. pineapple method”>
- applying heavy products that add weight directly to the strands, making it hard for the strands to revert back to their natural state
How to find the perfect curl
Unfortunately, after carefully executing all of these steps, I still cannot guarantee that you will achieve the “perfect curl” because you will never have 100% control over all of these factors, especially environmental factors. However, what is great about curly hair is that the standard of perfect is in the eye of beholder. The diversity and versatility of curly hair allows every curl to be perfect in its own way. Voluminous, frizzy curls are just as beautiful as tight, Z-shaped coils, so there is no need for natural beauties like us to be so critical of each and every curl. At the end of the day, the most important aspect of achieving the perfect curl is to just embrace and love your curls as is, because you are already perfect just the way you are.
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Silicones
One of the most common ingredients used to provide heat protection properties is silicone. But before you call up your curlfriends to start a petition to ban me from natural hair sites worldwide, let me explain why silicones may be your best friend when it comes to combating the effects of heat on your hair. Silicones or polysiloxanes (as my nerdy friends in lab coats call it”> are made from combining silicon (Si”>, the 14 element of the periodic table, with oxygen, hydrogen, carbon and sometimes other materials. When silicon is combined with these organic substances, it becomes a heat-fighting machine due to its ability to remain strong and flexible when exposed to a vast range of temperatures. This attribute allows silicones to not break down when exposed to high temperatures, creating a strong barrier between the cuticle layer of the hair and the ultimate moisture killer: heat.
The barrier that silicones create also serves as an insulator of moisture for hair. Essentially, silicones are locking moisture in, while slowing down the penetration of heat to the hair. It may sound a bit counterintuitive, but direct heat is what increases the damage of the cuticle layer and weakens the hair. This protective barrier shields the cuticle from direct exposure, without preventing heat from penetrating completely, which mitigates the amount of damage the hair is exposed to while still allowing enough heat in to achieve the straightening effects.
I understand that silicones have garnered a bad reputation for causing buildup on the hair. However, in this case, it is the buildup that is saving your hair.A number of silicones such as dimethicone and amodimethicone have an amazing ability to substantively adhere to hair fibers to reduce heat damage and retain moisture inside the hair for a long period of time. Other silicones that are commonly found in heat protection serums and sprays, such as cyclomethicone, are extremely volatile, meaning it evaporates very easily and quickly. Cyclomethicone is often used at a very high percentage in formulas because it acts more as a delivery mechanism and temporary heat barrier, rather than thicker, more substantive silicones that adhere to the hair for long periods of time. Products that have a high level of ingredients that start with “cyclo” and end with “cone” are most likely formulated to not cause unmanageable buildup on the hair.
Natural oils
Thinking about natural oils? They have a number of similar heat protection properties that silicones have. Like silicones, the hydrophobicity (resistance to water”> of oil allows it the ability to create a thick barrier on the cuticle layer of the hair without an abundance of penetration into the hair. It is very hard for most oils to penetrate the cuticle layer of the hair because the molecular structure is often too big to fit through the very small openings on the surface. Therefore, oils behave very similarly to silicones by creating protective barriers from bad things like heat. This is why we often cook with ingredients like olive oil. Oil has a natural ability to withstand high amounts of heat, in turn, preserving the moisture content of our food so that it does not dry out in that hot frying pan. Some oils can remain in tact at extremely high temperatures, but they are often the heavier oils that can weigh the hair down. This is why formulating chemists will combine synthetic ingredients like silicones with the natural goodness of oils to provide an improved customer experience when using the product.
Water-based heat protectants
There are also water-based heat protection products that commonly utilize the film-forming powers of polymers such as polyquaterniums and acrylate copolymers, just to name a few. Polymers have some resistive properties to heat and are great at retaining moisture in the hair by creating a tight forming film around the surface of the hair. Polymers are great for preventing a variety of types of damage, as well as improving wet combability and softness of the hair. Although some polymers are designed to withstand high temperatures, most studies show that silicones will usually beat out a polymer when it comes to remaining functional at high temperatures.
Straightening systems
Quite often companies sell products as a system of products that work together to produce the desired effects. In systems like these, there are heat-fighting ingredients in each product that are then layered on the hair in stages to create your shield of protection. Scientifically this may be true. However, the naughty secret is that there is usually one core product that provides most of the heat protection benefits. If you are consistently using a lot of heat on your hair, then you will probably benefit the most from utilizing a system that contains heat protection ingredients in each product. However, if you are the type of curly girl who goes straight only few times a year, then my suggestion is to use a great deep conditioning product before a straightening treatment, as well a great heat protection product that is applied on the hair right before heat is directly applied.
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What do you look for in heat protectants?
What is Marula Oil?
Marula oil originates from the marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea“>, which is most commonly found in the southern regions of Africa. This tree produces fruit and nuts. The marula nut falls into the Anacardiaceae family, which basically means a type of cashew. These nuts can be eaten raw or roasted for heightened flavor. However, when the nut is cracked open, you will find the truly valuable part – the kernel. There is more value placed on the marula kernel because it is a difficult and time-consuming process to crack the nut open to remove the kernel, which is then used to extract oil that is used for cosmetic, medicinal, and nutritional purposes. While the oil is extracted from kernels of the nuts, the fruit is used to make juice or wine. In traditional African cultures, the leaves and branches are used for natural healing remedies and to make tea. It is a tradition in many African cultures to give the kernels away to friends and neighbors as gifts. I enjoy the rich history behind this particular tree because it symbolizes the strong community of women that we have created to celebrate curly and coily hair.Breaking it Down
Cultures that hold marula oil in such high regard are on to something! The magical oil that these kernels produce is approximately 70% oleic acid content (omega-9 acid”> and very high in other fatty acids, making it extremely penetrable into the skin. The high levels of this monounsaturated fatty acid make it rapidly absorbing, while the saturated fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, help to create a moisture-trapping barrier around the hair shaft. Also, this combination adds slip to prevent tangling and smooths the cuticle to enhance shine. The fatty acid composition makes it very similar to olive oil, so that tells you it has to be pretty good.
But wait…there is more! Marula oil also has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. This means that it can aid in killing the bacteria that causes infections and flare-ups of the skin. A number of people who experience symptoms of psoriasis or eczema claim that marula oil has helped to soothe their flare-ups. It also helps that it is rich in vitamins C and E and can be used to soothe burns and reduce scaring. This, combined with its concentrated levels of anti-oxidants like tocopherol, helps to fight free radicals, which are thought to be one of the leading causes of wrinkles and skin aging. The higher levels of oleic acid and antioxidants in marula oil give it a slight edge over argan oil.
How to Use It
Since marula oil is highly penetrable into the skin, absorbs quickly, and has anti-inflammatory properties, I recommend that this product be used as a hot oil or scalp treatment to retain moisture, treat the hair follicle, and reduce itchy or flaky scalp. It can also be beneficial when used as moisturizing hair oil due to its light consistency. It will instantly improve the hair’s softness and moisture retention without remaining too greasy or weighing the hair down. Of course, marula oil will also be an added benefit to any type of cream-based formulas for the skin and hair promoting moisturizing properties.
Now that you are more informed on the many benefits of marula oil, the next time you see this name pop out at you from the shelf, you may decide that this is something you might want to test out on your next product junkie binge.
Do you currently use marula oil in your regimen? What are your thoughts?
If you have more questions about natural oils for the hair, visit me at SisterScientist.com to keep the conversation going.
